Re: FTE 61-79 - Rag joint

61-79-list-digest Monday, August 24 1998 Volume 02 : Number 419

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Rag joint
FTE 61-79 - radiator update
re:FTE 61-79 - Engine swap
FTE 61-79 - BAD cv joint
FTE 61-79 - Bad CV joint
Re: FTE 61-79 - Synthetic oils
Re: FTE 61-79 - High speed broncos
FTE 61-79 - Welcome
Re: FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions
FTE 61-79 - synthetic oil
FTE 61-79 - RE Rag joint
FTE 61-79 - Dim turn signal
FTE 61-79 - RE: Couple of questions
Re: FTE 61-79 - High speed broncos
re:FTE 61-79 - Dim turn signal
FTE 61-79 - Autro tranny w/ column shift?
re:FTE 61-79 - RE Rag joint
FTE 61-79 - Re: Product Report...
re:FTE 61-79 - Autro tranny w/ column shift?
FTE 61-79 - Mounts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dim turn signal
Re: FTE 61-79 - Autro tranny w/ column shift?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Auto Tranny's (was Auto vs. Manual)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dim turn signal
Re: FTE 61-79 - radiator update
Re: FTE 61-79 - Autro tranny w/ column shift?
FTE 61-79 - Re: JP-5
FTE 61-79 - Vacuum and timing.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum and timing.
FTE 61-79 - 67-72 4wd Brake conversion Question
FTE 61-79 - Re: Calling all Kentuckians

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 04:14:21 -0600
From: "Michael White"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rag joint

- -----Original Message-----
From: Kerry Walker
To: 61-79-list
Date: Sunday, August 23, 1998 9:13 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rag joint

>I know there was a discussion about this not long ago, but I didn't know
>mine was bad so I didn't pay it a whole lot of attention.
>I bought one of those HELP! replacement coupling kits, but I cant figure
out
>how to get the new rubber peice around the pins. how do you get those
little
>clips off the pins? They do come off don't they?
>Can someone give me a quick rundown on how to replace the ragjoint?
>Any help appreciated.
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
.................

If the ragjoint has never been replaced before, then you will have to grind
off the heads of the pins with a mini die grinder or bench grinder in order
to get the clips off the pins. A lower bearing failure on the steering
column will cause the ragjoint to fail (even a new one), and could also
create a gap between the steering wheel and column collar (which will not
allow the turn signal return mechanism to work). You might also want to look
at the cab mounts (especially the bushings) since they do have an effect on
the steering column.

BTW:) I will be replacing the ragjoint and lower column bearings in my 69
F250 very soon (mine broke on Saturday!).

Michael
SLC, Utah

69 F250 360 auto (new ragjoint)
69 F250 390 T18 Posi 3.54 (awaiting new ragjoint +)

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 07:55:50 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - radiator update

Well, I got the radiator installed and the freeze plug replaced. I was
doing fine until it started raining and I discovered that I was lying in
the way of a small river. SWMBO nearly killed me. I was soaked. On to the
radiator particulars.

The radiator is a Ready-Rad Heatbuster with extra cooling and for extreme
service. I bought it from HiLo. It was $239 plus tax making it just under
$260 out the door. It is made by Go/Dan Industries (GDI) in Mexico. It is
part number 43 6002 and has a lifetime warranty (for as long as I own the
truck). It is made of all new components and materials. My old radiator was
the original 3 row and the new one is four row. It runs awfully close to
the air conditioner condenser, less than an inch.

Installation was pretty much straight forward. I had to switch the drain
petcock to the new one. The transmission cooler lines did not simply swap.
I had to find some reducers. The new radiator required larger threaded
nipples than the old one. I suspect that this radiator is typically used in
camper specials, towing packages, etc. with a 460 instead of a 351M. The
bolts that hold the shroud on are self tapping. It is easier to tap them
before you put the radiator in the truck. Otherwise the swap was very easy.
I spent a lot more time replacing the freeze plug. That's where I was when
I got so wet.

I discovered that my overflow bottle was not functioning. The tube from the
bottle's cap to the bottom had fallen down inside the bottle. Overflow from
the radiator could go into the bottle, but no antifreeze could be sucked
back on cool down. I fixed it, but I will probably replace it with a new
one when I find one I like.

I used a new (to me) formula of Havoline (what else?) antifreeze. According
to the chart on the bottle, 50/50 mix protects from -34 to 270 F. 66%
antifreeze protects fro -86 to 275 F. I went with 50/50. It is orange
instead of green.

It is supposed to get over 100 again this week. I will report how well it
works. I have not made any other changes to the cooling system. The fan
spacer I bought at the junkyard didn't fit properly so any changes in the
cooling system will be from the new radiator.

- -John

jlagrone

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - BAD cv joint

Gary writes: >> Do I even want to look at this? Will the gears fall into
the bottom of the case when I pull the axle ala 81 escourt?? I don't think
I will do it but just curious.

No!! The gears will stay in place.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 10:07:38 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bad CV joint

Gary I forgot this. Be sure to pull the speedo drive gear on the passenger
side before you pull the axle. One bolt - A 10mm if I'm not mistaken.
Removes just like any drive gear, its just kinda hard to get to.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 10:15:25 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Synthetic oils

Date sent: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 18:57:37 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Synthetic oils

> My 2 cents on synthetic oil. I've given this a lttle thought, and tried
> to be as objective as possible. For what I do synthetic oil as it is
> produced and marketed at this time is just not necessary.

I just bought some Mobil1 from Wally world, $23--- per 6 qts, about $4/qt.
The Valvoline was about $3/qt but was a "blend" which by law "can" be as
little as 5% synthetic. I know that Mobil1 lasts longer than regular oil of any
kind or the blends either under hard use so for me it's going to pay off. The
other thing it does is make up for sloppy maintenance which I'm really good
for. OEM's say 7k for normal use, 3k for hard use and I try to get near 3k
but never quite make it, sometime as much as 7 or even 8k or, god forbid,
even more so every thing I can get on my side is good :-)

If I knew for sure Amsoil was polymer based I might have stuck with it even
at $7/qt but this discussion has convinced me that I'm wasting my money
there regardless of how good it is since I don't change the filters any more
often anyway I may as well get the median stuff and do 3-5k changes instead
of attempting to test the 25k theory with multiple oil filter changes.

Wally world has no synthetic ATF though so I'll try Meijers. If this fails can
anyone direct me to a brand they've tried that's easy to get and relatively
realistic in price?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 10:30:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Sean O'Malley"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - High speed broncos

> something the bronco doesn't do very well..........I know, hard to believe
> but......it doesn't like abrupt pavement breaks or pot holes in the Eway at 75

I had an '83 Bronco that did the same. I just figured it was the short
wheelbase. I'd hit pavement seams, and the truck would jump a foot or
two to one side or the other. Learned to ease off the gas when hitting
bumps. She still bucked, but the sideways skitter went away. FWIW, my
78 '150 doesn't do any such skittering.

- --sean

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 07:22:16 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Welcome

- ->Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 16:14:04 -0700
- ->From: Sean Christian Hess
- ->Subject: FTE 61-79 - SoCal vs. PacNW truck culture

- ->Time for a little truck sociologye ...

- ->I just moved from SoCal (Santa Barbara) to Portland, Oregon, and I can't
- ->believe the difference in the number of 67-72 series Fords. My '69 F250
- ->was one of the best Fords on the road in Santa Barbara, but up here, I
- ->can see that didn't mean do-do. There are tons of older Fords here
- ->ranging all of the way from junk haulers to butt haulers.
- ->
- ->Has anyone else noticed this? My guess is that it has to do with
- ->emissions laws. When I was getting my '69 registered here in Oregon, I
- ->didn't have to have it smogged, nor did anyone do an under-the-hood
- ->inspection for tampering. Anybody got a 428 CJ that I can drop in?

- ->Dr. Hess

Welcome to one of the best spots in the good ol USA, and FTE Heaven. There
are a bunch of Fords here because they last unlike the other two brands!!

I wouldn't brag on the being from CA too much as there is a bounty for ears,
same as there was no coyotes for years!-) and you never know when you may
run into a hostile native:-) Where is Tom when we need him?!

CS
79 Bronco

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 10:45:24 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions

Date sent: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 14:24:25 -0500
From: Cannandale
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Couple of questions

> First question is about my cooling system. I got a 460 with a
> Edelbrock 750. If im out 4-wheelin' or just fooling around, where im
> kicking in the 4-barrels alot, i shut the truck off, the radiator
> overflows.

I agree with the others, 7psi is too low, try 14-18 but make sure there are no
leaks :-)

> Next question, when im idleing the egine runs fine, but when i start to
> give it gas (cold engine or warmed up), it misses till about 1500rpm, and
> then runs fine, cant figure it out, ive got new plugs, wires, cap, rotor.

What tires, tranny, rear gear ratio are you running? With the edlebrock and
750 size you may have a flat spot off idle. Edlebrock is much better and
easier to tune than a Holley and virtually all Holley setups have a flat spot off
idle unless you do a lot of tinkering. Low rpm and lots of throttle with a 750
will dump a lot of air into the engine so you need to be able to richen it up
just off idle. Accellerator pump jet may be too small or stroke may be too
short or you may have an inappropriate metering rod for your application. If
this is a vacuum secondary carb then the secondaries could be opening too
soon or you could have a vacuum leak around the carb or somewhere else.

In any case this sounds like a vacuum or air related problem (lean) to me :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 10:29:41 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - synthetic oil

Bill, I thought I was alone. I've already toasted all of my marshmallows.

I do know of one failure (personally, as I understand it there were many)
due to oil break down. In the late 70s or early 80s Quaker State put out a
bad batch of oil. My brother-in-law used QS in his 78 Ford pickup. It ate
the engine in some fashion and QS bought him a new one. Sorry I don't
remember any more details.

I once drove a 69 Buick 350 15 miles with no coolant during July here in
Texas. I was PO'ed due to when and where it blew the end out of the
radiator. It wasn't much of a car and it happened in the middle of nowhere
with SWMBO and our baby. I decided to drive it home or until it quit. It
made it home and never even started knocking. I fixed the radiator and
continued to drive it with no apparent ill effects. The oil: you guessed
it, Havoline 30HD.

I guess I better get some more marshmallows..................

- -John

jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left door, new left front fender
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (The software box said Windows95 or better, so I
bought a Mac.)
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 08:47:12 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE Rag joint

Kerry said:
- ------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 21:59:20 -0400
From: "Kerry Walker"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rag joint

I know there was a discussion about this not long ago, but I didn't know
mine was bad so I didn't pay it a whole lot of attention.
I bought one of those HELP! replacement coupling kits, but I cant figure out
how to get the new rubber peice around the pins. how do you get those little
clips off the pins? They do come off don't they?
Can someone give me a quick rundown on how to replace the ragjoint?
Any help appreciated.

- ------------------------------
I write:
Kerry,
What year truck is it? I did one on a 76 F-150. Not hard at all. First I
bought the HELP! replacement like you. Then I looked at it, read the
instructions on the back of the package, pitched it into the garbage and
went to the Ford dealer and got a good one!! I'm not sure exactly how the
HELP unit works. I seem to remember that it had some pins that screwed into
a plate. Thing is that those pins are not removeable on the original. as
far as removing the original: you should be able to remove the trim cover on
the bottom of the steering column mount at the dash. Then loosen the bolts
that hold the column to the bottom of the dash. Remove the bolts that hold
the column to the firewall and slide the column back. When you get it back
as far as you can snug up the dash clamp bolts to hold it in place. You
should have enough room to work under the hood now. The rest of it is
simply removing the old rag joint and installing the new one. Once you get
it out you may be able to make the HELP unit work.

Good luck and let us know if you need any more help.

Tom H

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 11:53:33 -0400
From: Mike and Colleen
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dim turn signal

Hi All,
I am having a ts problem. The driver side ts light was working
intermittently, so I replaced the receptacle (was badly corroded and
had a broken wire). Now it works, but is very dim and the parking
light doesn't come on at all (it didn't work before, either). The
passenger side works fine, and is much brighter than the driver
side. I checked voltage at the connector in the cab, 12V, it seems
that from the connector, the wire splits to go to the ts on each
side. The voltage is much lower at the light, max. 5 volts (hard to
tell with it cycling on and off). Does this sound like a bad
wire(s). I really don't want to yank the wires and have that not be
the problem. Anyone (Steve) have any ideas.
Thanks for any help,
Mike

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 08:56:18 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Couple of questions

At 02:24 PM 8/16/98 , you wrote:
>First question is about my cooling system. I got a 460 with a
>Edelbrock 750. If im out 4-wheelin' or just fooling around, where im
>kicking in the 4-barrels alot, i shut the truck off, the radiator
>overflows. I got a big radiator, big enough for the engine. I had it
>chemically cleaned because it needed it, but still overflows, also had
>the engine and all lines flushed. I figure maybe the water-pump needs
>to be replaced? Im not sure considering the engine never overheats,
>always run's under 200F. Oh yea, 7lb cap.
>

==============================
Couple of ideas.
1. Do you keep the radiator full up to the top of the filler opening? With
no expansion tank you should expect some coolant to puke out of the radiator
until there is enough air volume at the top of the radiator. Look for a
yellow sticker on the front of the radiator support specifying the required
air space in the top of the radiator. In mine if I fill it to the top it
would just puke out what it didn't need and then maintain that level.
2. Try installing an after market expansion tank. I picked one up a Kragens
and kind of like it. I have a flip lock radiator cap rated to 13 lbs and
after I installed the expansion tank I would open the hood and flip the
lever to purge the air out of the system a couple of times. Now seems like
most of the air is out and the expansion tank works well. Level goes up
when engine hot and goes back down when cold.

Tom H.
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 12:10:32 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - High speed broncos

From: "Sean O'Malley"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - High speed broncos
Date sent: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 10:30:49 -0400 (EDT)

> I had an '83 Bronco that did the same. I just figured it was the short
> wheelbase. I'd hit pavement seams, and the truck would jump a foot or two
> to one side or the other. Learned to ease off the gas when hitting bumps.
> She still bucked, but the sideways skitter went away. FWIW, my 78 '150
> doesn't do any such skittering.

I figure it has 3 things against it, short WB, relatively stiff suspension
exacerbated by dual antisway bars and relatively stiff 33" tires which are
relatively heavy. My Pu has a heavy engine, stock, fairly compliant tires and
slighly softer springs with no sway bars and I too have no problems on the
Eway with it and in fact it handles bump fairly well at 90.......well I'm
assuming since I never drive that fast of course :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 98 12:18:41 -0400
From: "Donald R. Haulsee"
Subject: re:FTE 61-79 - Dim turn signal

- ----------------------[Reply - Original Message]----------------------

Sent by:"Mike and Colleen"

I checked voltage at the connector in the cab, 12V, it seems
that from the connector, the wire splits to go to the ts on each
side. The voltage is much lower at the light, max. 5 volts (hard to
tell with it cycling on and off).

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=====================================================================
I think that you most probably have a bad ground on that turn signal socket.
Did you use a volt meter to measure voltage in the socket to the signal
housing? If so, then the socket may not be well grounded to the chassis.

My 66 stepside left turn and brake light only had 8 volts. I replaced the
light assembly with a new unit, spliced the wires in about a foot from the
light (just inside the bed) and I had 12 volts at the bulb and they work
great. Trying to clean up the existing tailight housing was more trouble
(boy was it rusty) than buying a new stainless steel one from MAC.

Don

66 F100 Stepside with 5.0 HO SEFI and AOD
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 11:17:56 -0600
From: "Nils Gore"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Autro tranny w/ column shift?

I'm getting an 80-something 302 re-built for my 64. I have to decide what
transmission to put in. I've assumed until now that it would be easier to
re-install the 3peed manual in it.

But now I'm starting to re-think that, and wonder if an auto wouldn't
better, given the way I want to use it (daily driver, commuting; no racing,
no towing.) Don't know which tranny yet. I suppose a C4 or C6.

Can anyone tell me if it's feasible to convert the stick on the column to
auto? I'd like to avoid the floor shifter, if possible. Would choice of
transmission matter in this regard?

Thanks,

Nils Gore
West Point, Mississippi.

73 F100 (rough but reliable (knock, knock))
64 F100 (still rough, soon to be reliable)

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 98 12:33:20 -0400
From: "Donald R. Haulsee"
Subject: re:FTE 61-79 - RE Rag joint

Kerry said:
- ------------------------------
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rag joint

I know there was a discussion about this not long ago, but I didn't know
mine was bad so I didn't pay it a whole lot of attention.
I bought one of those HELP! replacement coupling kits, but I cant figure out
how to get the new rubber peice around the pins. how do you get those little
clips off the pins? They do come off don't they?

- -------------------------

As someone else already said, you need to use a grinder to grind the rivet
heads off the pins on the part that attaches to the steering box. After you
grind them, put the yoke in a vise or something solid and drive the remnants
of the rivet out. You will have to hit it repeatedly and stoutly to get them
to move. Once they start to move, they come out pretty quickly.

When you do this, you will probably break the copper strap that is the ground
for the horn relay. Be prepared to crimp some connectors on a piece of
wire and bridge the rubber piece or else your horn won't work.

Carefully check the lower steering column bushing and lock bolt. If this is
loose or allows column endplay, you will quickly break the joint again. Been
there, done that.

Watch angular orientation of the coupling. It's easy to get the wheel out of
alignment due to rotating the joint on the steering box spline.

Don
66 F100 stepside with 5.0 SEFI HO V8 and AOD Trans.
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 12:29:39 -0400
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Product Report...

Dr Hess
Your Crane unit sounds exactly like my Mallory Unilite conversion
(optically triggered ignition, etc.). As a word of caution, my
ignition module (the little light unit/sensor that sits under
the distributor cap) on my Mallory blew about a year after I installed
it (in fact I recall it was about one day AFTER the one year
warranty expired. Insert 'planned obselesence' comment here).
When the module blows you don't get any warning or time to react;
the engine just dies and you hope you can cost to safety.
After that experience (including the tow back home), I always carry
a spare ignition module in the glovebox. Summit should be able to
sell you the module itself (not the entire installation kit). It's
cheap insurance.
Ohio Bill

William R. King, Ph.D.
Professor
Criminal Justice Program
Bowling Green State University
Bowling Green, OH 43403
(419) 372-0373 (office)
(419) 372-8089 (fax)
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 98 12:44:16 -0400
From: "Donald R. Haulsee"
Subject: re:FTE 61-79 - Autro tranny w/ column shift?

- ----------------------[Reply - Original Message]----------------------

Sent by:"Nils Gore"

Can anyone tell me if it's feasible to convert the stick on the column to
auto? I'd like to avoid the floor shifter, if possible. Would choice of
transmission matter in this regard?

=====================================================================
I don't think that its feasible to convert a 3-on-the-tree to an auto shifter.
I think that the manual trans uses two shifter pieces and the auto uses a
shifter tube. I think that you will need to find a steering column out of an
auto trans truck or early Falcon. There may be other models that will work,
but I know that the 64 Falcon works since I'm currently using one.

Choice of transmission doesn't really matter since even an AOD has the same
number of shift positions as a C4.

Don
66 F100 stepside with 5.0 SEFI HO and AOD.
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 12:46:40 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mounts

Gary writes: >> I don't have an older truck to look at but I understand
the FE's and 240's mount at the front and rear of the block rather than in
the center like the later engines>>

I've never seen a FE in a small truck or car mounted anywhere except the
mid engine mounts. Large trucks with FT's I don't remember.

Bell housing mounts and front engine mounts were used on some years of the
Y block, but I don't remember what years.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 12:46:46 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dim turn signal

Date sent: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 11:53:33 -0400
From: Mike and Colleen
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dim turn signal

> side. The voltage is much lower at the light, max. 5 volts (hard to
> tell with it cycling on and off). Does this sound like a bad
> wire(s). I really don't want to yank the wires and have that not be

Check the rubber plug in the passenger side harness, there are several which
could be causing the problem. Unplug them and fill them with silicone
grease and replug them several times to clean off the contacts. This is a very
common problem on older fords due to aging of the rubber and just plain
age.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 12:53:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Autro tranny w/ column shift?

Date sent: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 11:17:56 -0600
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Autro tranny w/ column shift?
From: "Nils Gore"

> Can anyone tell me if it's feasible to convert the stick on the column to
> auto? I'd like to avoid the floor shifter, if possible. Would choice of
> transmission matter in this regard?

You will need the whole steering column for the auto, they are completely
different. The auto will be longer too so a new drive shaft will be necessary.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 13:06:55 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Auto Tranny's (was Auto vs. Manual)

From: "Ken Schneider"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Auto Tranny's (was Auto vs. Manual)
Date sent: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 19:11:42 -0400

> Yea, That's WOT. Not sure what the engine is reving at though, gota get a
> tach.

Don't recall the speeds you mentioned but you can play with the push pin
length, changing it by 1/32" at a time one way or the other to set the WOT
first/second shift and then adjust the kick down lever to set the second/high
shift point at WOT. This will also affect the median shift points to some
extent but will be more noticeable at WOT.

I made some new pins out of dowel pins and ground the lengths in 1/32"
icrements longer than stock and some shorter. Don't recall which ones I
used now but I believe you want longer, just can't remember.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 11:07:55 -0700 (MST)
From: Andrew Ford -- Speaking for Myself
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dim turn signal

On Aug 24, 9:06, FTE 61-79 - Dim turn signal Mike and Colleen wrote:
> Hi All,
> I am having a ts problem. The driver side ts light was working
> intermittently, so I replaced the receptacle (was badly corroded and
> had a broken wire). Now it works, but is very dim and the parking
> light doesn't come on at all (it didn't work before, either). The
> passenger side works fine, and is much brighter than the driver
> side. I checked voltage at the connector in the cab, 12V, it seems
> that from the connector, the wire splits to go to the ts on each
> side. The voltage is much lower at the light, max. 5 volts (hard to
> tell with it cycling on and off). Does this sound like a bad
> wire(s). I really don't want to yank the wires and have that not be
> the problem. Anyone (Steve) have any ideas.

Mike,

Try turning on the emergency flashers and loosening the brake light switch:
this should put all four ts lights on at once, allowing you to measure voltage
starting at the ts case and working your way back along the wire.

- --
Andrew Ford (602)581-4499
forda

agcs.com Si vis pacem, parabellum.
Above is *my* opinion, for theirs see below...
AG Communication Systems - Expand the power of your network.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.agcs.com
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 11:19:46 -0700 (MST)
From: Andrew Ford -- Speaking for Myself
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - radiator update

On Aug 24, 6:08, FTE 61-79 - radiator update John LaGrone wrote:
[...]
> The radiator is a Ready-Rad Heatbuster with extra cooling and for extreme
> service. I bought it from HiLo. It was $239 plus tax making it just under
> $260 out the door. It is made by Go/Dan Industries (GDI) in Mexico. It is
> part number 43 6002 and has a lifetime warranty (for as long as I own the
> truck). It is made of all new components and materials. My old radiator was

[...]
> I used a new (to me) formula of Havoline (what else?) antifreeze. According
> to the chart on the bottle, 50/50 mix protects from -34 to 270 F. 66%
> antifreeze protects fro -86 to 275 F. I went with 50/50. It is orange
> instead of green.
>

I was reading about the orange af about a week ago (forget where, maybe
here?). Anyway, I didn't see any mention of a complete flush when switching
from green to orange.

The new orange af contains a different anti-corrosion compound than the
green. The upside is that it lasts longer. The downside is that if you
mix the two types, the two anti-corrosion chemicals destroy each other
leaving you wit no corrosion protection.

I'd hate to see that new radiator rusting out in 9 months!

Regards,
78 F150 Ranger supercab 4x4 / 351M
- --
Andrew Ford (602)581-4499
forda

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Autro tranny w/ column shift?

Just a bit of advice, we did a different swith. We put a 4 speed in our 73
F-350 and got rid of the Auto. It took us 4 years to figure out why the
linage was stiff. The auto has a different height for the trans mount. One
is higher than the other. Keep this in mind when your doing your change over.

JUMPINFORD

AOL.com
73 F-250 RangerXLT Camper Special
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 14:09:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marv Miller
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: JP-5

John Miller wrote:
>With fuel samples to be taken every day from a minimum of
>four planes each having six tanks to check there is a wealth of cleaning
>medium when I need it with out having to use anything intended for it's
>original purpose.

I, too, use "sumpings", only mine are JET-A.
Great for cleaning Ford truck parts!
Are you aware of any biohazards from Prist, as sometimes the -A has had it
added?
- -Marv-

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:56:18 -0400
From: "John Peck"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum and timing.

I pulled a plug out of the truck and had a fine black coating on it. This
coating wiped off clean easily. I check my timing and it registered 25 BTDC
or more. The book says 6 BTDC so I set it for that. The idle is a solid
650 RPM and the timing setup is good. When I set the timing I pulled the
vacuum line off the distributor and plugged it and put it back when
finished. Now the truck is sluggish going up hill but is still perky on the
straight but not the same as before. I don't want to put the timing back to
what it was but I need that hill climbing power for hauling the canoe and
equipment up the Viginia and W-Va mountains. Some of the things I would
like to know is how to check the vacuum advance on the distrubitor and if 6
BTDC is correct. I also checked dwell and it sits correct.

John Peck
johnpeck

visuallink.com

69-F100 360

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:00:17 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum and timing.

>I pulled a plug out of the truck and had a fine black coating on it. This
>coating wiped off clean easily. I check my timing and it registered 25 BTDC
>or more. The book says 6 BTDC so I set it for that. The idle is a solid
>650 RPM and the timing setup is good. When I set the timing I pulled the
>vacuum line off the distributor and plugged it and put it back when
>finished. Now the truck is sluggish going up hill but is still perky on the
>straight but not the same as before. I don't want to put the timing back to
>what it was but I need that hill climbing power for hauling the canoe and
>equipment up the Viginia and W-Va mountains. Some of the things I would
>like to know is how to check the vacuum advance on the distrubitor and if 6
>BTDC is correct. I also checked dwell and it sits correct.
>
>69-F100 360

I have a 74 360 in my truck and it also is listed for 6 ... I think I put
it to 8 though ... maybe 10 once or twice. The power did dwindle a little,
but I think it also flattened out, that is when I had the plugs gapped wide
and the timing advanced it had a definate peak where you had a load of
power and such, now it seems more even, though a little less. I'd check
the carb too to be sure that was set up properly. I never had the truck
set at stock before so I'm kind of enjoying the smooth idles and looking
forward to tweaking it slightly now that I've got a baseline.

Just my 2cents

Bill

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
for truck make it ..../Trucks/truck.html
for car make it ..../Cars/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 18:39:54 -0400....

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