61-79-list-digest Thursday, August 20 1998 Volume 02 : Number 411



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - U-Joints
Re: FTE 61-79 - oil
Re: FTE 61-79 - oil
re:Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Identification
Re: FTE 61-79 - U-Joints
FTE 61-79 - Urgent question (may be a bargain out there)
re:Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Identification
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided Now Vacuum tuning.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Universal joints
Re: FTE 61-79 - AC Compressor bracket - knowledge andexpertise
Re: FTE 61-79 - 352 pistons
FTE 61-79 - A/C brackets for FE
FTE 61-79 - Cosmoline
re:Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Universal joints
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided Now Vacuum tuning.
FTE 61-79 - baling wire
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cosmoline
FTE 61-79 - RE:'70 F-100
FTE 61-79 - FAQ?
re:Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Universal joints
Re: FTE 61-79 - baling wire
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cosmoline
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:'70 F-100
Re: FTE 61-79 - A/C brackets for FE
Re: FTE 61-79 - 70 F-100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Eye candy
Re: FTE 61-79 - Eye candy
FTE 61-79 - RE 70 F-100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Eye candy
Re: FTE 61-79 - Eye candy
Re: FTE 61-79 - Funny noise
Re: FTE 61-79 - Eye candy
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Auto versus manual
FTE 61-79 - That SOB
Re: FTE 61-79 - friends truck

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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 07:44:50 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - U-Joints

From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - U-Joints
Date sent: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:50:39 -0700

> For what it's worth (not much but hey I gotta say it anyway), I didn't
> fully understand how U-joints worked till I had to replace a set myself.

> angles become greater and the motion of the U-Joint is increased so more
> lubrication is needed.

In and of itself this it a true statement but the real reason they fail is not lack
of lub but lack of "seals" which dry out and let water in which washes out
the grease and leave the bearings to rust and disintegrate. If you can't re-lube
it then you can't fix this problem. They still last quite a while but at some
point they dry out and than go south unless you can replenish the grease.

Someone said that if you keep them lubed they should last forever and I
agree this it mostly true but with lifted or 4wd trucks you also do have rolling
wear and as you said even when the bearings don't roll they still take a shock
load which wears them in place, a vibration type of wear if you will :-)

Why do the OEM's last so long? They are installed in a special fixture that
guaratees they are absolutely straight and true with the drive shaft and there is
no rust or dirt to interfere with this alignment. Once you change any of these
factors you reduce the life expectancy even with top quality parts.

Why to OEM tires run so smooth and almost any retrofit tire has a tad more
vibration or noise? Same reason, they have special marks to line them up
and mate them with a compatible rim before installation. We don't have
those tools to work with since after market tires do not come marked for us
and neither do rims.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:15:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - oil

Date sent: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 17:11:35 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - oil

> such as Mobil 1 (if you call Mobil 1 a true full synthetic oil). Then

You knew you were going to get this question didn't you? Whatdayamean
"If"?? I thought it was fully synthetic? Maybe that's why Amsoil is double
the cost?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:20:18 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - oil

Date sent: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 17:11:35 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - oil

> In my opinion (disclaimer), break it in with Castrol, Pennzoil, or
> whatever straight 30 weight (or 10W-30 if you are doing it in the winter).
> Change the oil and filter after cam breakin

I think I agree with this since the most wear will happen on initial run in most
of the time and any left over grit or dirt or solvent will be washed out into the
oil from the galleries etc.. I didn't do this but in retrospect I thing this if a
very goo plan :-)

>, then again at 100 miles,
> then again at 500, then again at 1000, then every 3000 miles until the

I'm not sure I agree with this but it probably won't hurt anything, just don't
think it's necessary if you do the initial cam break in change.

> thing has at least 6 to 9000 miles on it, then switch to full synthetic

Why wait till it has some irrecoverable wear before protecting it?


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 98 8:23:57 -0400
From: "Donald R. Haulsee"
Subject: re:Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Identification

- ----------------------[Reply - Original Message]----------------------

Sent by:"Gary, 78 BBB"
From: "Chad Pasma"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Identification
Date sent: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:08:02 PDT

Both AOD and C-4 have separate bell housing so if you have separate bell
housing and there is an OD position on your shifter then you have the AOD
etc..


- -- Gary --
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=====================================================================
I gotta disagree about the AOD description.

AOD's do NOT have separate bell housings. Or at least none of the 3 I've
taken apart had them. The AOD's don't look anything like a C4 and, in my
opinion look more like a C6 only a tad smaller. The AOD's can be
distinguished from the other non OD transmissions by the presence of a TV
linkage and NO vacuum connections. The TV (throttle valve) linkage is used by
the trans to mechanically sense throttle plate opening. AOD's are NOT
computer controlled. AODE's as used in 95 and up Mustangs are computer
controlled.

AOD's only fit the small block Windsor(302 and 351) bolt patterns. There is a
version for the 3.8 V6, but I have never looked at one closely.

Don

66 F100 SEFI V8 with AOD
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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:39:04 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - U-Joints

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:

> of lub but lack of "seals" which dry out and let water in which washes out
> the grease and leave the bearings to rust and disintegrate.

The non-greasable joints supposedly use special seals that don't let
water in or grease out. I'm sure they will wear out sooner, but they are
defiantely stronger. I exploded a brand new greasable axle U and I did
break the cross section. The solid one held up fine. They use marine
grease in these, so that should help some.

> Why to OEM tires run so smooth and almost any retrofit tire has a tad more
> vibration or noise? Same reason, they have special marks to line them up
> and mate them with a compatible rim before installation. We don't have
> those tools to work with since after market tires do not come marked for us
> and neither do rims.

I've seen a small yellow circles on some tires indicating it's high
spot (Bridgestone Desert Duelers I had have this mark). I had thought,
mistakenly, at one time that this spot was supposed to go near the
valve. I have balanced rims only on a balancer and it does work. You can
match up this high spot opposite a rim high spot if you want to go
through the trouble.


OX
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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 07:29:55 -0500
From: "James Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Urgent question (may be a bargain out there)

To get the longer stroke in a 390 vs. 360, do the rods change or the wrist
pin position in the piston? (I know the crank changes)?
Are all 390 pistons 'slippers'?
Are the standard 69 vintage 360 and 390 pistons dished?
Which 390's might be flat-tops?

Found some potential buys out there and have till this evening to sort out
what I want to do about them versus converting my 360 to 390.



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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:48:55 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: re:Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Identification

Date sent: Thu, 20 Aug 98 8:23:57 -0400
From: "Donald R. Haulsee"
Subject: re:Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Identification

> AOD's do NOT have separate bell housings. Or at least none of the 3 I've
> taken apart had them. The AOD's don't look anything like a C4 and, in my

Did you have to say that so loudly! :-( Dang it! I have a reputation to
uphold here :-) Jerry and Jason will be on this like a fly on........:-(

> opinion look more like a C6 only a tad smaller. The AOD's can be

Ok, so maybe pan shape could be a better way to tell them apart, I just don't
have enought memory left to memorize all those wierd shapes :-)

> NOT computer controlled. AODE's as used in 95 and up Mustangs are
> computer controlled.

I have one of these monsters in my 94 bird with 3.8L but have never looked
at the bell housing and wouldn't know a TV (I usually watch races on that) or
what ever if it bit me. I do know what a modulator is though and I
understand that it is replaced by the every intellegent computer which always
causes the tranny to shift at exactly the right time for best emissions......er
performance :-)

> AOD's only fit the small block Windsor(302 and 351) bolt patterns. There
> is a version for the 3.8 V6, but I have never looked at one closely.

I'll be pulling one soon, I'll let you know :-)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:02:01 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided Now Vacuum tuning.

>The gauge is not rock steady, it will sit in one spot, then drop for a
>second and come back, then maybe rise for a second and come back ... its
>really weird, you can hear it in the idle too, so I know its been doing it
>for a while. Its not just one cylinder I don't think, its too slow and
>irregular to be based on one cylinder, unless its suddenly firing or not
>firing after so many revs.
>
>Is the needle motion on the guage kind of a slow rolling motion or is it a
>little more abrupt. If it is slow and it seems that your engine is
>"hunting" for the correct idle speed it could be time for a rebuild on your
>carburator. If the carb gaskets are worn and it is not metering properly
>the engine will be seeing a continuous shift from rich to normal to lean to
>normal etc. and the idle speed will change accordingly. If the needle is
>moving more rapidly is sudden "jerky" motions then it could be bad intake
>valves or possibly a cam shaft with a lot of overlap. If it is the carb and
>you have smog nazis in your neighborhood then you may have trouble passing
>the E-check.
>
Well I lucked out, living in Iowa we don't have the checks for emissions
like the rest of you do. There are no problems with running a smokey oil
burning old truck, except that people try to run you off the road. Just
kidding. Anyway my truck is fairly decent, needs tranny work pretty bad
right now, and the engine is tired, but it ain't dead yet. The carburetor
has been on for almost 4 months now, and I bought it from the autoparts
store. Might have beena reman, but came in the nifty Holley box, shrink
wrapped and everything, so I really don't think its the caruburetor causing
the idle to waver. The other reason I say this is because its always done
it, and I had a 2V Autolite on before. Someone described the idle moving
as a lope, but to me, from my limited experience its about half way between
a hunt and a lope. Its not quite enough of a change in revs to feel like
hunting, its probably less than 50 revs total (max up and max down), and it
seems to slow to be a lope. I dunno, not gonna let it worry me, probably
need a new engine in a year or so anyway. Well a rebuilt, thinkin of
putting a 390 short block in place of the 360 ... Any problems with this ?
The reason is that I want to use the hardened valve seats that I had put in
my 360 heads. It would also be nice to keep the FE so I don't have to
change everything over.

Anyway that's how things look from here. Oh yeah, one more thing, I asked
it before, but no one has answered .... what plug/points gap do you guys
run at ?


Just my 2cents

Bill

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
for truck make it ..../Trucks/truck.html
for car make it ..../Cars/mustang.html
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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:09:04 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Universal joints

Date sent: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 21:59:56 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Universal joints

> also broke. Somehow the grooves that hold the ujoint cup retaining clips
> broke off. It's amazing what a little bailing wire and JB Weld will do in
> emergencies.

Aren't the grooves in the bearing cups? and then replaced with the new
Ujoint? I must be picturing the wrong part?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:17:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AC Compressor bracket - knowledge andexpertise

>Have you checked the local junk yards?
>Mike

Sure have, maybe I am doing things wrong, but as Houston has more yards than I
care to count, I started by calling a few locally (when I first got my truck). Things
would go like this
DO YOU HAVE ANY LATE 60'S EARLY 70'S FORD TRUCKS?
no, we only carry late models
DO YOU KNOW ANY YARDS THAT MIGHT?
no
(or)
you might try this one.

after at least 10 calls I found 2 yards that have trucks. One of them only had one
and I got the last useable parts there were left. The other had maybe 4 of the right
era but were sooooo rusted that I think the yard musta flooded a couple times and
these trucks spent some time under water.

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:19:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 352 pistons

Date sent: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 03:18:41 -0400
From: "Timothy R. Anderson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 352 pistons

> going a frame-up rebuild and I'm trying to decide between
> a rebuild on my 352 or dropping in a 429 which has been
> occupying a corner of my garage for awhile.

I personally like the 429 or 460 but in your case, since you like the FE, you
could make several other engines out of the 352 with enough cash. 390 and
410 come to mind. If you have the cash and want to spend it then go for it
but the 429 will be the cheapest route probably since trannys are pretty cheap
in the yards (maybe not up there?) but you will have to change the tranny,
mounts, radiator, exhaust and possibly drive shaft to make the swap.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:24:05 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - A/C brackets for FE

from Azie,
>Any 390/352 of approximately the same year bracket should work, whether it
be car or truck.

I thought any 352 of similar year would work, but a mustang guy said some of the
cars had a bracket that attached to the body of the car? Figure that out, it sure
seems wierd to me. I guess I'll go to a couple of wrecking yards and ask them if
they can point me to a 352 (or 390) of 65 -70 with AC and look at the brackets. If
they look right, maybe I'll go ahead and buy them cant image they would be too
expensive. Perhaps if its close enough I can modify it. It would be a good excuse
to get the welder that I've been wanting - (I know, I know, how can you fix a truck
with out a welder? thats what I keeping telling my SWMBO).

Thanks for the info.
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:24:14 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cosmoline

John LaG. writes: >>The last time I bought a rotor it was coated in a
preservative to prevent rust while it came over on the boat. The military
calls this stuff cosmoline (I spelled it phonetically). At any rate, you
have to remove the stuff before you install the part or it won't work
right.

Couldn't find "cosmoline" in the dictionary.

The best way we found to remove the "stuff' was extremely hot water and GI
soap and GI brush.

I've found that this still works, when I occasionally still run across the
"stuff".

Azie
Ardmore, Al


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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 98 9:36:33 -0400
From: "Donald R. Haulsee"
Subject: re:Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Universal joints

- ----------------------[Reply - Original Message]----------------------

Sent by:"Gary, 78 BBB"


Aren't the grooves in the bearing cups? and then replaced with the new
Ujoint? I must be picturing the wrong part?

=====================================================================

Most of my experience is with passenger cars and I'm kinda new with trucks,
but all of the driveshafts for Ford cars that I've dealt with have the grooves
in the yokes. The groove is near the outside of the bore.

This was one of my problems on my SEFI 5.0 conversion on the 66 F100. The
Crown Vic driveshaft had the length and the correct yoke for the AOD, but
had the wrong type of univeral joint yoke welded on the rear of the
driveshaft to mate with the 9" rear. I had to have the driveshaft cut and
the correct yoke for a 9" rear welded on.

The only joints that I have seen with the groove on the bearing cups were
on some Chr*sl*er products although I think that Ch*v* routinely does it that
way also.

Don

66 F100 SEFI 5.0 liter HO V8 w/AOD

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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:34:15 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided Now Vacuum tuning.

Date sent: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:02:01 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided Now Vacuum

> Anyway that's how things look from here. Oh yeah, one more thing, Iasked
> it before, but no one has answered .... what plug/points gap do you guys
> run at ?

Since we are ford guys we use Autolite or Motorcraft plugs and if it's a
points ignition you want about 0.025 - 0.035" gap depending on year but if
electronic Dura Spark then 0.044" is the spec.. It's been a long time on the
points for me so I'll have to leave that one but the numbers I remember are
about 0.017 - 0.020" point gap but you get a better adjustment by setting the
dwell instead. With points, dwell is controlled by the point gap. As I recall
dwell is hard to set on a ford because there is no adjustment door, you have
to take the cap off and guestimate, trial and error kind of thing? Anyone?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:38:26 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - baling wire

Mike writes: >> It's amazing what a little bailing wire and JB Weld will
do in emergencies.

Where in Gods earth did you find baling wire??? We've been on baling twine
so long around here that baling wire is extinct. Wish I could find a roll
of it. That stuff was used to hold everything together around the farm when
I grew up.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:01:29 -0300
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cosmoline

- ----------
> From: am14 chrysler.com

>
> John LaG. writes: >>The last time I bought a rotor it was coated in a
> preservative to prevent rust while it came over on the boat. The military
> calls this stuff cosmoline (I spelled it phonetically). At any rate, you
> have to remove the stuff before you install the part or it won't work
> right.
>
> Couldn't find "cosmoline" in the dictionary.
>
> The best way we found to remove the "stuff' was extremely hot water and
GI
> soap and GI brush.
>
> I've found that this still works, when I occasionally still run across
the
> "stuff".

JP5 and a rag and brush works wonders too :)

John Miller

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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:16:15 -0400
From: Mike and Colleen
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:'70 F-100

snip

Sounds like a fair price to me. I just bought a '70 2wd longbox
360/3spd for $2700, I thought it was a good price. It's hard to
find older vehicles with a good body/frame here (northeast Ohio).
It's rock solid and had new brakes, rebuilt heads, new radiator,
clutch, exhaust and tires. It was love at first sight! ;-). Good
luck.

Mike


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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:27:13 -0400
From: Mike and Colleen
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FAQ?

I was wondering if anyone knew of a FAQ for old(er) Ford trucks. If
one doesn't exist, would any individuals like to contribute to one.
I can put up a web page for nothing on my ISP and would be willing
to contribute what I can. It could have a parts interchange (can I
use this off of a '73 T-bird, etc), a sources of supply, common
upgrades (wide gap dist, headlight relays), rebuilding tips, etc. I
would put it up as plain text with links to other pages for stuff
that has already been done (headlight relays, Duraspark, etc). I
think the most helpful thing (for me) would be a parts interchange,
what tranny works with this engine, what things are the same
throughout body styles, etc. Any thoughts, comments?

Mike

P.S. I sort of started this for my own benefit by cutting/pasting
things from the archives that I felt were interesting or especially
informative (i.e. electric cooling fans).



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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:36:20 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: re:Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Universal joints

Date sent: Thu, 20 Aug 98 9:36:33 -0400
From: "Donald R. Haulsee"
Subject: re:Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Universal joints

> Aren't the grooves in the bearing cups? and then replaced with the new
> Ujoint? I must be picturing the wrong part?
>
> =====================================================================
>
> Most of my experience is with passenger cars and I'm kinda new with
> trucks, but all of the driveshafts for Ford cars that I've dealt with have
> the grooves in the yokes.

BRAIN FART! Sorry.........I'm in axle ujoint mode this morning since my
last project was rebuilding the front end on my bronco. GM's have the
wonderfull plastic center groove but the fords have always with a few
exceptons had the yoke groovs with internal snap ring on drive shafts at
least.......of course! Now I can picture your problem :-)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:38:39 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - baling wire

From: am14 chrysler.com
Date sent: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:38:26 -0400
Subject: FTE 61-79 - baling wire

> Where in Gods earth did you find baling wire??? We've been on baling

Azie, it's called mechanics wire now :-) Most hardware stores have it in
small rolls :-) On roll is enough to hold a 49 ford together :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:50:59 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cosmoline

From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cosmoline
Date sent: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:01:29 -0300

> JP5 and a rag and brush works wonders too :)

Yeah, we all have some of THAT lying aroung right? I think that's what my
furnace runs on. Man when that after burner kicks in.........:-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 11:08:00 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:'70 F-100

Date sent: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:16:15 -0400
From: Mike and Colleen
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:'70 F-100

> snip
>
> Sounds like a fair price to me. I just bought a '70 2wd longbox
> 360/3spd for $2700, I thought it was a good price. It's hard to

That would be a good price for a 4x4 in excellent condition but I'd hesitate
to spend that much on a 2wd unless it really was in pristeen (no rust, body or
chassis) condition. I never worry about drive line conditon because I know I
can fix that forever but the body and chassis are hard to restore and make
look good with out plastic and that's worth paying a little more for IMHO. If
you can get a good drive line to boot all the better :-)

Average price of older used trucks around here with some serious rust on
them is pretty high for 4wd, $1500 but 2wd are closer to $600 - $1000.
Really clean ones can go way up there but now and then you luck out. I
never seem to have the money or space when a good deal comes along :-(

If the bed is solid with few holes in it and the doors and rear fender wells are
repairable $950 wouldn't be too far out of range but I've seen them go for
$1000 with no serious rust anywhere. It's really a judgement call......is this
the truck you really, really want and are you able and prepared to do what
you have to to fix it up and how much do you have in your pocket.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:06:29 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - A/C brackets for FE

At 08:24 AM 8/20/98 -0500, you wrote:
>from Azie,
>>Any 390/352 of approximately the same year bracket should work, whether it
>be car or truck.
>

Byran

Have you tried J.C. Withney (sp)? I order ac mounting brackets from
them for a 76 using a York compresser.










>seems wierd to me. I guess I'll go to a couple of wrecking yards and ask
them if
>they can point me to a 352 (or 390) of 65 -70 with AC and look at the
brackets. If
>they look right, maybe I'll go ahead and buy them cant image they would be
too
>expensive. Perhaps if its close enough I can modify it. It would be a
good excuse
>to get the welder that I've been wanting - (I know, I know, how can you
fix a truck
>with out a welder? thats what I keeping telling my SWMBO).
>
>Thanks for the info.
>Bryan Kirking
>66 Step Side
>352 4 speed
>Houston, Texas
>
>
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>

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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:16:14 EDT
From: bobherring juno.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 70 F-100

>From: GMPACHECO aol.com
>What do you think about a 70 f-100 for 950.00 its an automatic with a
c-6 also
>the engine was supposedly rebuilt about 50k ago... pretty clean, missing
a few
>chrome pieces but other than that clean, needs the reg. paint, interior
>etc..??
>Mike in Seattle
I gave $2000 for my 72 f100 short/wide with a 240/6 and
3 on the column. Probably a little high but I had to have it.
My son had just totaled my 92 Ranger and I was without wheels.
It was in fair shape, nothing special.

Bobby Herring, Central Texas area
'64 F100 short-wide, was 292 Y-block/3speed,
motor in pieces, make me an offer
'72 F100 400/C6 in progress
'95 Ranger V6/auto/ext cab

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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:16:14 EDT
From: bobherring juno.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Eye candy

Can some one enlighten me about the SOHC?
I know what it meant on the T*oy*tas I drove in the early 70's.
It meant the cam was on top of the head and the rockers
ran directly off the cam. No lifters or push rods.
Is this the same thing?


Bobby Herring
'64 F100 short-wide, was 292 Y-block/3speed,
motor in pieces, make me an offer
'72 F100 400/C6 in progress
'95 Ranger V6/Auto/Ext cab

_____________________________________________________________________
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Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 11:35:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Eye candy

>Can some one enlighten me about the SOHC?
>I know what it meant on the T*oy*tas I drove in the early 70's.
>It meant the cam was on top of the head and the rockers
>ran directly off the cam. No lifters or push rods.
>Is this the same thing?
>

Yup sure is. Only there are two this time since it's a V configuration.
Pretty nice motor, they have some specs on it at :

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/427sohc.html

This page has helped me out over the years, well not this exact page but
the info on it, with figuring out what might fit in various configs and
what years to look for.

Bill

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:39:44 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE 70 F-100

- ------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 23:52:35 EDT
From: GMPACHECO aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 70 F-100

What do you think about a 70 f-100 for 950.00 its an automatic with a c-6
also
the engine was supposedly rebuilt about 50k ago... pretty clean, missing a
few
chrome pieces but other than that clean, needs the reg. paint, interior
etc..??

Mike in Seattle
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- ------------------------------
First I would check it for rust. I can't remember all of the recommended
places but over the wheels, and the back of the cab between the cab and the
bed come to mind. If it checks out with little (very little) or no rust and
the test drive seems good I would say its a pretty good deal. Weigh what
you want to do with its current condition. If you want a daily driver
probably fine. If you want to restore it to showroom then every piece
that's missing is that much to add to the budget and some pieces are next to
impossible to find.

Tom H.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:52:17 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Eye candy

From: bobherring juno.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Eye candy
Date sent: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:16:14 EDT

> Can some one enlighten me about the SOHC?

SOHC is one cam per head which operates both intake and exhaust valves
through rockers. I've never seen a DOHC up close but they have two cams
per head and each cam runs either intake or exhaust. Some use bigger
bumps and push on the valves directly. They use caps on the valve stems
for the cam lobes to run on but can't remember where I saw this.

The theory is that you eliminate some wear points and reduce inertia forces
acting against the cam. I can't think of any engines now days that use over
head cams except in line 4 and 6 cylinders. All V engines I'm familiar with
have only one cam in the valley which runs both heads through push rods.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 13:01:28 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Eye candy

The new Ford engines (4.6,5.4, and the V-10) are all ohc.

JUMPINFORD AOL.com
73 F-250 RangerXLT Camper Special




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Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 13:05:05 -0500
From: Cannandale
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Funny noise

I had the same problem, but at a little faster speed, it turned out to be my engine
mounts were lose. Probally isnt what it is, but its an idea...

cannandale

61-79-list ford-trucks.com wrote:


> Date sent: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 21:17:24 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Funny noise
>
> > My truck just starting making this kind of funny rattling noise
> > lately. It sound slike two pieces of metal vibrating. At first I thought
> > it might be a loose exhaust clamp or hanger, but they are all in place. It
> > happens usually at around 30mph or when I floor the motor. IT also seems
>
> We need more input........One guess I would offer is the fan hitting the
> shroud or radiator or a part in one of the brakes rattling against the rotor or
> drum. Define the frequency of the noise, wheel speed, engine speed or some
> other? Intensity, loudness, is there a vibration you can feel as well as hear?
>
> Greed is the Creed of the Breed
> that did away with the Steed
> Visteon, Delphi..........:-(
>
> -- Gary --
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>



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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 13:47:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Eye candy

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date sent: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 13:01:28 EDT
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Eye candy

> The new Ford engines (4.6,5.4, and the V-10) are all ohc.

So I guess I can't use my Pete Jackson drive on them eh? Does anyone
know EXACTLY why they call them modular? Supposed to utilize some of
the same components, which ones? I can picture tranny flange, oil pan front
cover, some cylinder heads, maybe pistons or rods???

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:50:34 PDT
From: "Ethan Hawke"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Auto versus manual

I don't care what any one says Automatics are better, then manuals.

My uncle randys work truck has a straight 6, with an auto and we pulled
a 36 ft travel trailor with it. We pulled the trailor up the bluffs of
Red Wing Minnesota. It must of been 2000 Ft up there and at the top it
was alll dirt roads.

One time i was racing a Bronco II , I was in the taurus, we both had....

---

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