61-79-list-digest Wednesday, August 19 1998 Volume 02 : Number 408



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?
FTE 61-79 - For sale 351M/400 non-EGR, edlb, perfomer manifold.
Re: FTE 61-79 - friends truck
FTE 61-79 - headlight aiming
Re: FTE 61-79 - friends truck
FTE 61-79 - F100
FTE 61-79 - 460
FTE 61-79 - Radiator wait
Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?
FTE 61-79 - List Addiction
Re: FTE 61-79 - Radiator wait
FTE 61-79 - Re: Mystery Solved Disaster Avoided.
FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve clatter
FTE 61-79 - head light aim trick
Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460
Re: FTE 61-79 - friends truck
Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?-oops
Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?
Re: FTE 61-79 - friends truck
FTE 61-79 - 351M (I BELIEVE!)
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M (I BELIEVE!)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?
FTE 61-79 - auto tranny cooler
Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?
FTE 61-79 - Universal Joints
FTE 61-79 - Re: Headlight AIM
FTE 61-79 - Programming
FTE 61-79 - Programming OOPS.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Mystery Solved Disaster Avoided.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Universal Joints

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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 14:44:01 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?


I haven't spent any time on 6's either.>>

All the 302s have adjustable rockers

JUMPINFORD AOL.com
73 F-250 RangerXLT Camper Special
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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 14:59:08 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - For sale 351M/400 non-EGR, edlb, perfomer manifold.

Manifold was ground down slightly to fit later model distr. Functions
fine as it was on running truck when I got it. Other wise OK, except
it's dirty. 50$ plus ship.


OX
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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 12:24:52 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - friends truck

RANDY D wrote:

> A friend of mine has a 79 f250 4wd that he completely rebuilt from the
> frame up. He is having brake trouble he put everything new on lines,
> master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and etc etc... he has a good solid
> brake pedal.. It is to solid...when you hit the brakes they are hard as
> a rock! It takes a football field to slow it down... any ideas on what
> the problem could be??? would be greatly appreciated. He has ran
> out of ideas as to what the problem could be. Thanks you Guys are
> GREAT.....!!!
>

Randy: I did the same thing to my truck and the brakes were worse after I
replaced everything than before. I think I still have air in the loops
below the master cylinder and and haven't figured out how to get it all
out. I tried a pressure bleed and that helped a little but think some kind
of high pressure system needed. I can stand on brakes and not lock them up
so I know they don't work right. I tow a 3500 lb boat with no brakes on
the trailer so it makes for some interesting trips.

Good luck

John

78 F250 4X4 Supercab

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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 15:16:10 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - headlight aiming

Bryan,

1. Texas isn't as stringent as they used to be about headlight aiming. In
most cases, if the aiming mechanism isn't broken and the head lights are in
the general direction of the roadway, it should pass. I say should because
there are a lot of inspectors out there who are out to rip you off and
wouldn't pass a car the first time around if it just rolled off the
transport from the factory (but that's another tirade......).

2. Park someone else's older car or truck that you think is aimed about
right between 10 and 12 feet from a wall on a level surface. Turn on the
headlights. Mark where the high beams and low beams hit the wall (masking
tape works great). Mark where the control truck is. Park your truck in the
same spot. Match your headlights to the marks you made earlier. The control
vehicle should have a similar headlight system to yours as in two or four.
Round or rectangular will not make a difference. In most older vehicles,
you will find that the headlights are approximately the same height from
the ground. Remember the rule of parallax (parallel lines). If you have to
use a shorter car, add the same difference to your marks for your truck.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left door, new left front fender
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI EAOD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (The software box said Windows95 or better, so I
bought a Mac.)
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 16:16:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - friends truck

Date sent: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 12:24:52 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - friends truck

> > master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and etc etc... he has a good solid
> > brake pedal.. It is to solid...when you hit the brakes they are hard as
> > a rock!

> I can stand on brakes and not lock
> them up so I know they don't work right. I tow a 3500 lb boat with no
> brakes on the trailer so it makes for some interesting trips.

Are they soft? Mushy? Randy's are hard which means no air but yours may
well be air since I struggled with that myself. I finally have most of the air
out but the pedal is still softer than I'd like. I do have brakes now so try this:

Get the truck up on blocks and remove the tires so you can get at the
bleeders. Remove your bleeders one at a time and wrap "gasoline fitting"
teflon tape on the threads making sure not to go past the threads and put
them back in.

Now get a bottle of fluid and pour about half out into another clean container
so you can save it or use the container as the resivoir (whatever) and also get
a clear plastic tube that fits the bleeders tightly and put one end of the tube
on the right rear bleeder and the other end in the half full bottle so the end is
emersed in the fluid. Loosen the bleeder about 1/2 turn and purge the tube
of air by gravity bleeding it till all air is out of the tube then gentlly pump the
brake pedal about half a stroke letting it up quickly for several strokes and
then do the other side, checking the resivoir after 4 or 5 strokes. When you
do the rears though you have to pull the pin on the proportioning valve. (I
used vise grips and a screw driver to hold it out by wedging the screw driver
between the pliers and body of the valve) This may only be necessary when
reverse pressure bleeding, not sure but I did it anyway to be safe.

What this does is allow you to bleed them by yourself with a minumum of
fuss and by keeping the tube submerged in the fluid no air can get back in.
By pushing slowly and letting up quickly you force the system to draw from
the MC instead of the bottle. I have an expensive pressure bleeder tool but
this method got me the closest to a good bleed of all the methods I tried.

Be careful not to pump too hard or the tube will pop off and you will have to
start over due to air getting back in. Once the air is out you can take your
time about getting back to tighten the bleeder since it will continue to gravity
bleed and with the airless tube on it and fluid in the MC it won't hurt anything
so it really works very well. If you have two people all the better so you can
see what comes out of the tube.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 15:21:40 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - F100

I can't swear about 78, but in 79 the F100 was the light duty half ton. The
F150 was a heavy half that was actually rated to carry 5/8 of a ton, but
almost always registered for only half. That got the GVW up enough to
exempt them from some of the smog laws. I think both GM and Ford started it
in 75 when catalytic converters were first required.

BTW, my underhood smog sticker says that my truck complies with California
requirements. I know in earlier years that California was more strict. What
about later years?


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left door, new left front fender
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI EAOD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (The software box said Windows95 or better, so I
bought a Mac.)
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 16:24:18 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460

Tony Morino writes: >>So, now I have a free running 460 and want to learn
a little about it. Some buck-toothed hillbilly had it 'rigged into his
truck and I'd be almost positive that it came out of a lincoln or something
like that. The only numbers I could find on the heads was:

DOVE-C 35

Look on the rear of the block directly below the drivers side head and
there you will find the P/N of the block. this will give you the year
specific. I think the DOVE heads are the mediocre ones, but am not sure of
this. Ones starting with C8 are the better ones if I remember correctly.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 15:27:49 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Radiator wait

Actually, Ken, if it was Japanese, it wouldn't be sitting anywhere near my
property. But I get your point. My point is, I would wait 6 weeks with no
problem, but don't tell me three days and then have them turn in to three
weeks without even a phone call to explain.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left door, new left front fender
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI EAOD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (The software box said Windows95 or better, so I
bought a Mac.)
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 16:28:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: hurdj VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?

On Tue, 18 Aug 1998 JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote:

>
> I haven't spent any time on 6's either.>>
>
> All the 302s have adjustable rockers
>
All 302s? Mine doesn't!

> JUMPINFORD AOL.com
> 73 F-250 RangerXLT Camper Special
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>
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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 16:00:31 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - List Addiction

- -
>
> That will last about 3 minutes, then you'll be back ;-). If your
> anything like me, and I know you are, you couldn't live without this
> stuff.

You sound as bad as me, I'm on the digest but I'm thinking about going
live.

- -
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 17:04:52 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Radiator wait

At 03:27 PM 8/18/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Actually, Ken, if it was Japanese, it wouldn't be sitting anywhere near my
>property. But I get your point. My point is, I would wait 6 weeks with no
>problem, but don't tell me three days and then have them turn in to three
>weeks without even a phone call to explain.
>
>
>-John
>

How true. There is no substitute for good customer service.
I can put up with a delay or two if I'm informed about it.
I didn't know the delay was **that** long! Geez, I probably
would have gone ballistic!

Ken



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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 16:14:39 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Mystery Solved Disaster Avoided.

>
> > Yup. Now you know why we all love them so much. It's amazing you
> > actually hung in so long before finding out what an FE can really do.


> I thought wild Bill was now a converted member of the BB (as in 385) club?

Naw.

I don't have a thing in the world against the 385's, but I grew up
running FE's, and have seen them do some amazing things back in the
days. Mostly circle-track, and in trucks.

The only reson I didn't rip this one too hard was I haven't been too
confident of it's health until I got a chance to tear into it and fix
some of the stupid sh*t that's been done to it. My next job is to pull
the E-brock intake ( I suspect a small internal runner leak or porosity)
and put on a '65 T-bird iron intake (I read somewhere that it's just
like the 428 CJ 4bbl intake breathing wise) I have laying around and
stop a bad end seal leak and hopefully gain some manifold vacuam.


- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 16:20:47 -0500
From: "Don Yerhot"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve clatter

John,
I recently bought a Subaru (I know its a Ford list but I think this relates to your problem ) that had been owned by an old couple and only driven short
trips in town. It had also been sitting for quite a while. Anyway, the car had intermittent lifter clatter, and I tried all kinds of different oil additives
that were supposed to help. Some would help for awhile, but eventually it would start to clatter again. I finally tried pouring 2 quarts of diesel fuel into
the engine on top of the existing oil, let it idle for 15 minutes (Don't put the engine under a load or you'll mess it up bad!!), drained it all out, and
put in a fresh change of Valvoline 10-40. That was about 2300 miles ago and it has ran perfect since.

Don
Richfield, MN
65 Ford F250/351w
84 Ford F150/300 6 popper

>
>
>
>
> Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 14:08:51 -0400
> From: "John F. Bauer III"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?
>
> I've got an original '78 300 I6 with 130k miles which has been sitting for
> about two years. With tips from the group, have it running again but
> notice quite a bit of valve "clatter" when under load (the more load +
> higher rpms, the more the clatter ,etc.) About 6 years ago, I replaced all
> the hydrolic valve lifters and tighened down the rocker arms by a method
> suggested by a neighbor: "run the engine, keep tightening down the rockers
> until it stops making noise and you're done." Is there a more scientific
> method to adjusting the valves than by sound? Am I even on the right track
> to fix this excessive clattering?
>
> John
>
> 77 E100, SWB, 300, 4spd. man.
>

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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 16:31:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - head light aim trick

>>From:=09John=20LaGrone=20[SMTP:jlagrone ford-trucks.com]=0D=0A>>2.=20=
Park=20someone=20else's=20older=20car=20or=20truck=20=0D=0A=0D=0AThanks=
=20for=20the=20trick,=20I'll=20try=20it=20tonight.=20=20Seems=20like=20=
such=20a=20simple=20solution,=20it=20shoulda=20=0D=0Abeen=20obvious.=0D=
=0A=0D=0AI=20gotta=20get=20this=20big=20boy=20ready=20for=20the=20meeti=
ng=20labor=20day=20weekend!=0D=0A=0D=0ABryan=20Kirking=0D=0A66=20Step=20=
Side=0D=0A352=204=20speed=0D=0AHouston,=20Texas=0D=0A=0D=0A
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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 17:55:02 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?

by adjustable rockers I mean that you can adjust them by tightening or
loosening the nut that holds each individual rocker arm. I know they don't
have a screw and locknut like most adj rockers.

JUMPINFORD AOL.com
73 F-250 RangerXLT Camper Special
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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 15:25:04 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460

> I think the DOVE heads are the mediocre ones, but am not sure of
> this. Ones starting with C8 are the better ones if I remember correctly.

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the 68-70 heads are identical
except for casting number. 72cc volume as opposed to 96cc's for 73 heads.

Thanks
John

78 F250 4X4 Supercab

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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 15:21:00 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - friends truck

>
>
> Are they soft? Mushy?

No, I can't say they are mushy, there seems to be a little bit of play in the pedal and
I think I may need to adjust the push rod but am to lazy to take off all the stuff
again. There is good resistance on the pedal but just can't lock them up as I used to
before.

> I forget how many times I have bled these but I'll check for air sometime in the
> future. Right now I'm working on the brake system on my mustang as I have completely
> rebuilt everything with stainless lines etc.

Thanks for tip Gary

Regards
John

78 F250 4x4 Supercab

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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 18:37:02 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?

At 01:08 PM 8/18/98 , you wrote:
>
>I've got an original '78 300 I6 with 130k miles which has been sitting for
>about two years. With tips from the group, have it running again but
>notice quite a bit of valve "clatter" when under load (the more load +
>higher rpms, the more the clatter ,etc.) About 6 years ago, I replaced all
>the hydrolic valve lifters and tighened down the rocker arms by a method
>suggested by a neighbor: "run the engine, keep tightening down the rockers
>until it stops making noise and you're done." Is there a more scientific
>method to adjusting the valves than by sound? Am I even on the right track
>to fix this excessive clattering?

To start off simple, try higher octane gas. Since the noise increases
under load and at higher RPMs, it sounds like it's pinging. How's the carb
working? May be running too lean. As for your lifters, I'm not too
familiar with 300 6 valvetrain, but usually just tighten the nuts till the
noise stops and go 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. Or when not running, follow the
firing order. Loosen all the rocker nuts so the lifters can expand and
bleed down. Then get the first cylinder of the firing order at TDC and
tighten the nut on the intake and exhaust valves till you get zero lash
(can't move the pushrod up and down) then turn it 1/4 to 3/4 turn more.
Then go to the next cylinder in the firing order.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN PAGE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 18:39:54 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?-oops

>I thought you were supposed to add a turn, but I've never seen a hydraulic
>lifter Ford with adjustable rockers, though I haven't spent any time on 6's
>either. Dad tried to adjust the lifters on my Cougar the first time we had
>it apart, since those aren't adjustable in this manner it made a heck of a
>racket, didn't run very well either ...
>Bill

Good point Bill. I forgot that 300 6's don't have adjustable rockers (??).
You simply torque the nuts down to spec.

The method I posted earlier was for use with adjustable rockers.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN PAGE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 18:51:15 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?

At 01:44 PM 8/18/98 , you wrote:
>All the 302s have adjustable rockers
>JUMPINFORD AOL.com

They do? Damn and here I spent $30 on a Comp Cams kit to make my stock 302
rockers adjustable. hehe, afraid not. Some might, but not all. Most are
torque down rockers - as in run the nuts till they bottom then torque them
to spec.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN PAGE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 18:55:24 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - friends truck

At 05:21 PM 8/18/98 , you wrote:
>No, I can't say they are mushy, there seems to be a little bit of play in
the pedal and
>I think I may need to adjust the push rod but am to lazy to take off all
the stuff
>again. There is good resistance on the pedal but just can't lock them up
as I used to
>before.
>
>> I forget how many times I have bled these but I'll check for air
sometime in the
>> future. Right now I'm working on the brake system on my mustang as I
have completely
>> rebuilt everything with stainless lines etc.
>Thanks for tip Gary
>John


This may sound silly, but were the rotors/drums, pads/shoes degreased
before you put the tires on? A couple of greasy hand prints does wonders
on stopping distances. You can press as hard as you want on the pedal, but
the brakes won't grab worth he flip.

Just a thought.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN PAGE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 18:13:47 -0700
From: gpark cymer.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351M (I BELIEVE!)

Looks like the dust has settled a little. A 460 would (and may be,
someday, will be) great to tow the old boat to the pond. My buddy who is
not even on this list tells me that EVERY time I talk to him about this
stuff.
But for right now, I'm really looking to get all I can out of the 351M and
John L's post about his '79 smoking the tires just amazed and encouraged
me. I'm not looking for a fire breather. Just a fair return for my 10
mpg. Just decent, respectable power that I know this engine is capable of.
Then I'll start making it breath fire.
It is getting there, slowly but surely.

So, what this all boils down to is I realize that, as someone (I think it
was Dave M.) said when I was going through my cooling problem last year,
YOU HAVE TO GET IT BACK TO HOW IT WAS MEANT TO BE . And I realized that
this truck may be running so crummy 'cause of the crazy vacuum system is so
haywire.

The vacuum arrangement is a nightmare. It consists of a bleed-off circuit
with 3 vacuum connections, an electrical soleniod w/two vacuum connections
(plus electrical), a crazy looking round gizmo (some kind of modulator)
that has something like 5 vacuum connections, the pvs w/2 connections on
the thermo cover, the thermactor vacuum line, the egr, and the float bowl,
and the coffee can w/like 3 connections, and I am totally lost. I'd really
like to find the guy who took the layout diagram off the hood and beat him
senseless with a thermactor pump.

So what I'm now in search of is an honest layout of the vacuum lines for a
California bound 1977 351M with a C-6 and no a/c. What are the odds?
There's no place like home, there's no place like home... oh, I think I'm
losing it.



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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 22:52:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: hurdj VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M (I BELIEVE!)

On Tue, 18 Aug 1998 gpark cymer.com wrote:
>
> So what I'm now in search of is an honest layout of the vacuum lines for a
> California bound 1977 351M with a C-6 and no a/c. What are the odds?
> There's no place like home, there's no place like home... oh, I think I'm
> losing it.
>
If you will have this truck for a while, it would probably
be worth while getting the shop manuals for it from HELM.
(Then you will know more about your truck than you wanted
to know :)
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 23:18:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: hurdj VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?

On Tue, 18 Aug 1998, Mike Schwall wrote:

> At 01:44 PM 8/18/98 , you wrote:
> >All the 302s have adjustable rockers
> >JUMPINFORD AOL.com
>
> They do? Damn and here I spent $30 on a Comp Cams kit to make my stock 302
> rockers adjustable. hehe, afraid not. Some might, but not all. Most are
> torque down rockers - as in run the nuts till they bottom then torque them
> to spec.
>
> Mike
>
According to Tom Monroe's book, "..all small blocks produced through
mid-1968 had fully adjustable valves." And "302s produced after mid-
1968 and all 255s and 351Ws do not have adjustable valves." These
engines use different length pushrods to correct valve lash.
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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 17:53:14 -0600
From: Drew Beatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - auto tranny cooler

Azie Wrote:

>The 428 was sufficient to
>do 70 mph, but the tranny got fried I knew better, but in my haste to get
>to the gin, I acted foolish. If you are going to USE an automatic be sure
>you add an aux cooler.

Azie. I have been wondering about this. I picked up a B&M supercooler for
my soon to be revitalized truck (I know I know, I've been saying this for 2
months now). The instructions say that it is preferable to use it in series
with the stock radiator cooler. I didn't plan on doing this. It would seem
to me that running it through the hot radiator would offer less
cooling--and also warm up the antifreeze, and it would be preferable to
just run the fluid to the cooler alone.

Any thoughts? Anybody?

Drew Beatty
dcbeatty rmi.net

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 20:45:33 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Valve clatter, any tips?

Here's my $.02...

All 240's and 300's have adjustable valves. (adjusts at the pivot)
Some 302's have adjustable, and some don't. (seen both types)

The adjustment for the 300/6 is to roll a cylinder to TDC on
compression stroke, loosen the rocker adjustments up, then tighten
them down until the play in the pushrod is *just* barely gone.
Tighten the adjustment another 5/8 of a turn past this point.

I sometimes have trouble getting them right by that method, since the
lifters aren't fully pumped up and You're only working against the
tiny little spring in the lifter and it's sometimes hard to be sure
of where the zero clearance point is.

My alternative (prefered) method is to start the engine and loosen
the rocker adjustment a little at a time until the valve starts to
clatter.
The lifter plunger needs to be fully topped out before You start
tightening the adjustment back up, so give a few seconds for the
lifter to pump all the way up.
Now tighten the adjustment down until the noise *just* goes away.
Sometimes it helps to let the pushrod slide up and down between
Your fingers while You give it a gentle twist, and as You tighten down
the adjustment You can suddenly feel the pushrod get a little harder
to spin. Once You've found this "zero clearance with the lifter topped
out" point, tighten the adjustment another 5/8 of a turn.
This centers up the plunger in the hydraulic lifter so it can do it's
adjusting thing.
As You tighten the adjustment down past the zero clearance point the
engine will get rough and loose that cylinder for awhile because the
valve is hung open. You need to go slow and let the lifter have time
to bleed down. As the lifter bleeds back down into it's operating range,
the lumpiness should go away...

Once You got the first one done, err... You've only got 11 to go...

I believe the origional post mentioned that the noise was worse
under load, which makes it not sound like a valve adjustment problem
to me. Perhaps pinging, or an exhaust leak. A leak at the head, or
a cracked exhaust manifold sometimes makes a noise that sounds lots
like valve noise, but gets worse under load.


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 22:51:08 -0500
From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Universal Joints

This weekend (or sooner) I get to learn all about replacing U-joints. A
quarter inch of slop is bad, right? Yeah, thought so. Guess I found
that driveline noise... BTW, AutoZone says that Ford used two different
front joint types for trucks like mine ('94 F150, 300ci, 5spd, 133"wb,
2-pc driveshaft), one of which has a different size bearing cup on each
axis. Does this sound right? Mine appears to be the other type, with
all bearings the same size. How do they say...? Measure once, drive to
AutoZone twice. Measure twice...
Okay, straw poll: go with the (slightly cheaper) greasable joints or the
lubed-for-life type? Cost is no object (they're both cheap), just
strength and longevity. The stock joints have no zercs; seems odd that
they would use the more expensive type on such a base model truck but I
suppose the good Ford works in mysterious ways. OTOH, more expensive
doesn't necessarily mean better. Perhaps the lubed-for-life kind aren't
superior, just more idiot-proof. Opinions?
lordjanusz
'94 F150 (goes "clunk")
'73 F100 (doesn't go)
'97 Saturn SW2 (goes like h*ll)

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 01:14:17 -0400
From: Mike and Colleen
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Headlight AIM

Bryan,
This is the procedure out of the service manual for 1970 trucks, but
I would think it should work for any truck. This is going to be a
little long winded. Park the truck 25 feet from a wall (25' to the
front of the headlights). You'll need (2) 20" uprights to sight
over, place them next to the truck, even with the axles. Sight over
the uprights and place a horizontal line on the wall that lines up
with the uprights. (if you are on a "perfectly" flat surface, your
line will be 20" off the floor, if it slopes down toward the wall it
will be less than 20"). Now measure from the ground to the center
of your headlight, then subtract 20" from that measurement. Take
that measurement and add it to your horizontal line on the wall.
(again, if on a level surface the top line will be at the center of
the headlight). Now mark vertical lines on the wall that line up
with the centerline of the headlights. Turn your lights on low
beam. The top edge of the beam should be even with the top line on
the wall. The left edge of the large portion of the beam should be
about 2" to the right of the vertical line (directed slightly away
from oncoming traffic). You should always make final adjustments by
turning the screws clockwise, against spring pressure. Hope this is
understandable, easier to see than write the description.

Mike


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 01:24:21 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Programming

> I know exactly what you mean, Steve. I get so bored with my job that the
> lists keep me sane but they tend to get repetitive so I've been thinking about
> programing again which would end the bordome but I can't do both. When I
> program I have to lock myself in a rubber room with no windows.........or
> internet lists :-( What a choice! :-(

What kind of programming are you into? I'm going to have to learn
something to translate my Lotus 1-2-3 macros into Excel. Some wise guy
at the top of my company decided that henceforth we would no longer use
1-2-3. I have developed a complete suite of dispatching and statistical
spreadsheets (some are used at headquarters) that are very macro
dependant, mostly to eliminate extraneous options and make the focus on
data entry for the computer literacy challenged or uninterested. They
also print very intensive (copying information from a database to a trip
sheet for each individual driver) print jobs that would be absolutely
impossible without the macros. Everyone in the department loves them,
but they wont run in Excel because I used Data Lens (123-V5)macro
language. Even the 1-2-3 versions that are supported by Excel won't work
because you can't use WYSIWYG. I spent a huge amount of time learning
and writing this stuff, building custom title-bar file menus and dialog
boxes. All out the window.

More Microsoft B.S.and corporate thinking in general.

Do you have any suggestions? The best I can tell it will have to be
Visual Basic, and I'll have to start over from the ground up.

- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 01:27:19 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Programming OOPS.

The message titled Programming was intended to be sent personally to
Gary. My apologies to everyone for the non-FTE content.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 00:32:10 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Mystery Solved Disaster Avoided.

>and put on a '65 T-bird iron intake (I read somewhere that it's just
>like the 428 CJ 4bbl intake breathing wise) I have laying around and
>stop a bad end seal leak and hopefully gain some manifold vacuam.

I've got a genuine 428CJ iron 4bbl manifold (C8OE-9425-C) in good shape
I'd sell for $175 plus shipping. (weighs almost 90 lbs)

Anyone interested?


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty....


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