61-79-list-digest Monday, August 17 1998 Volume 02 : Number 405



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - H*lp, Please
Re: FTE 61-79 - carb options, 77 351M F150
RE: FTE 61-79 - 460s-was: Re: carb options, 77 351M F150
Re: FTE 61-79 - re:How To Remove Ignition Switch?
Re: FTE 61-79 - H*lp, Please
RE: FTE 61-79 - 460s-was: Re: carb options, 77 351M F150
FTE 61-79 - 72 F-100 for $2500 and FE/460 wars
FTE 61-79 - 67-72 Gast tank questions
FTE 61-79 - 460 OD
Re: FTE 61-79 - re:How To Remove Ignition Switch?
FTE 61-79 - air and heat
Re: FTE 61-79 - Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided
Re: FTE 61-79 - e-check woes
FTE 61-79 - Auto Vs 4/5 sp trannys
Re: FTE 61-79 - carb options, 77 351M F150
FTE 61-79 - ??????
Re: FTE 61-79 - re:How To Remove Ignition Switch?
[none]
Re: FTE 61-79 - A/C Hot When Truck Warms Up
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vaccuum Setting Carb
Re: FTE 61-79 - A/C Hot When Truck Warms Up
Re: FTE 61-79 - e-check woes
Re: FTE 61-79 - e-check woes
FTE 61-79 - STEVE VS FTE LIST
FTE 61-79 - Hello from a list newbie
FTE 61-79 - STEVE VS FTE LIST
[none]
Re: FTE 61-79 - STEVE VS FTE LIST
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hello from a list newbie
FTE 61-79 - Message for Don Haulsee
Re: FTE 61-79 - re:How To Remove Ignition Switch?

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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 15:09:45 -0400
From: Jay Grover
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - H*lp, Please

Thanks for reminding me of JC Whitney, Gary!
My "new" '73 F250 has a bungy cord holding up the two side panels of the
bed.
I didn't know what it was for, so I took it off. The side panels
flopped apart and the tailgate fell off!
My wife and 4 year old son just about fell over laughing.
I was in the same boat as John for finding a new bed. I think now,
though, I'll try and patch up what I've got already (much, much
cheaper!).

Jay

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> Date sent: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 22:41:39 -0400
> From: "John Auburger"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - H*lp, Please
>
> > I am looking for a new steel replacement bed for my 77 F250 Longbed. Can
> > you please give me some info on where I can get one or who sells or makes
> > hem? I've been looking all over for one. Thank you very much in advance.
> > John
>
> I don't know of anyone makiing the whole box/bed but you can get repair
> panels for the bottom (bed) to weld in. I have to do this with my 78 pretty
> soon along with a bunch of other metal replacement. You can also get
> virtually all the exterior sheet metal for most of the early vintages through JC
> whittney and many others like auto krafters, Dennis Carpenter, Classic car
> parts etc..
>
> Greed is the Creed of the Breed
> that did away with the Steed
> Visteon, Delphi..........:-(
>
> -- Gary --
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

- --
"but, this one goes to eleven..."
Jay Grover
jgrover mbvlab.wpafb.af.mil
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glasscity.net/users/jcg
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 15:38:43 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - carb options, 77 351M F150

From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - carb options, 77 351M F150
Date sent: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 08:57:26 -0500

> John said;
> >I tried beefing up the
> >400 and it was a waste of money for my purposes.
>
> Interesting comment, John. I'd be interested in hearing what else you did
> to your 400, other than the carb and manifold. It might save me from
> wasting allot of time and money on a 400 build.

Don't let these guys throw you off. First you need to asses your "needs",
then your "wants" and then your WALLET! Then go back to the bar and
have another one to help drown your depression over the results of the
analysis.........

Most of us can't really do what we'd like to do so we have to pick the best
compromise which has to be based on an understanding of how much of the
work you can do yourself and how much equipment you may have to buy
and then find a place to keep to do the job etc..

My first swap happened when I didn't have much money and my only
trasportation broke. I bought a 351C for a good price and did the
monkeying with mounts and exhaust sytetm to make it fit. Keep in mind that
I've always had welding equipment, grinders, drill presses etc. and a
compressor so I didn't have to hire anyone to do any of the work and I
didn't have to buy any new equipment to do it (but I did anyway :-)) Didn't
cost much but was a lot of work. Then I had my job back, got a few bucks
in my pocket and decided I had to have (just had to) a 4wd and since I
couldn't afford to buy one I decided to "Make" one. 3 months later I had
one with a 429 engine in it that ran and handled very well but had to carry lots
of oil with me. Then when I had a little more cash I decided the 429 was
going to croak any minute so I better have something waiting in the
wings....the 460 rebuild was born and has now been in two trucks. Hasn't
cost me much and been a lot of fun :-)

So.......if you want a 460 then plan for it in what ever stages you need to but
if it doesn't especially excite you then build the 400 if you can afford it after
the above analytical process :-) Good engine builds are not dependent just
on the money you spend but more importantly on how wisely you spend it.
If the engine doesn't do what you wanted it to do then it's all a waste aint it?

Can't give you any specifics on the 400 build but usually just throwing an
intake and carb on it won't do what you want without some port and valve
work. Stock ignition is generally not good for more than about 5k rpm and
usually begins falling off before that so to get the revs you want you may
have to upgrade the ignition too. Cleaning up the ports and redoing the
valves with different grind angles and port matching may be nesessary to get
the most out of your new intake and carb combination as well as matching
the ports etc.. They say a cam is the best bang for the buck if you want
more power but here you have to have a very specific idea of the result you
want and if your aspirations are too high may involve any or all of the above
to achieve it. Unless you can get someone's specific formula with brands
and models etc. it will mostly be a guessing game but you should base it on
some research and a thourough understanding of the priciples involved. This
list is a good place to get a grip on that :-)

My 400 or 351M (not sure) has the edlebrock intake and holley 600 cfm
carb. I'm reasonabley sure it runs better than it did with the stock carb but
since I never drove it with the stock setup can't say for sure. It definitely has
more punch than an 351M I ever drove but not nearly as much as the 460
even in it's poorly tuned state so I'm guessing it is a 400. Believe it or not my
460 runs much better with the stock spread bore carb than it ever did with a
600 cfm Holley but that OEM carb is a pretty good one for the application.

Greed is the Creed of the Breed
that did away with the Steed
Visteon, Delphi..........:-(

- -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 13:03:47 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 460s-was: Re: carb options, 77 351M F150

how 'bout hooking to a sled instead? then we'll know which steed is the
finer breed. (BTW, i seen many good 460 builds get beat by 400+ cube FE or
M power)

:)
sleddog

- ----------
From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Monday, August 17, 1998 7:58 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460s-was: Re: carb options, 77 351M F150

Some day we'll have to have a contest to put this to bed and have an
outside, third
party handle the receipts (Deacon maybe?) and have two avid builders build
their specialty within the same budget including any swap costs as
indicated
and take them to the drags...............:-)


Greed is the Creed of the Breed
that did away with the Steed
Visteon, Delphi..........:-(

- -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 12:52:47 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - re:How To Remove Ignition Switch?

At 02:28 PM 8/17/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I need to replace the in dash ignition switch on my 66 F100. I have tried
>pushing and twisting and every combination I can think of, but I can't get
the
>bezel off.
>
>Could someone enlighten me on how to do this? Does the lock cylinder have
to
>come out first? If so, how does the lock cylinder come out?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Don Haulsee
>
>66 F100 Stepside with 89 Mustang SEFI HO 5.0 /AOD

Don, I have a set of 66 Shop manuals at home. I can see what I can find
tonight. If I find anything, I could scan it and email it to you, if you
like.

later
Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ

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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 15:46:53 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - H*lp, Please

Date sent: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 15:09:45 -0400
From: Jay Grover
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - H*lp, Please

> Thanks for reminding me of JC Whitney, Gary!
> My "new" '73 F250 has a bungy cord holding up the two side panels of the
> bed. I didn't know what it was for, so I took it off. The side panels
> flopped apart and the tailgate fell off! My wife and 4 year old son just

I once saw a 78 going down the road with a plastic bed liner holding the
sides to the bed. They were attached in a few places here and there to the
sheet metal of the body but mostly just hanging from the liner :-) They were
really flapping in the breeze :-) when I see something like that it just reminds
me I have to get something done pretty soon or...........

Greed is the Creed of the Breed
that did away with the Steed
Visteon, Delphi..........:-(

- -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 16:00:55 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 460s-was: Re: carb options, 77 351M F150

From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 460s-was: Re: carb options, 77 351M F150
Date sent: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 13:03:47 -0400

> how 'bout hooking to a sled instead? then we'll know which steed is the
> finer breed. (BTW, i seen many good 460 builds get beat by 400+ cube FE
> or M power)

Actually since we're talking brute power here it should be done on a dyno to
eliminate the human error and tire error :-) What you just said reminded me
that there are more factors there than can be fairly assesed as engine
differneces.

Any sprint or late model weekend hobbiest can build a 700 hp 350 or 358
engine and virtually all of them are within a few HP of each other since they
all virtually use exactly the same parts but there sure is a lot of difference in
the way they go around the track :-)

Greed is the Creed of the Breed
that did away with the Steed
Visteon, Delphi..........:-(

- -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 15:02:53 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 72 F-100 for $2500 and FE/460 wars

Well guys, I determined Saturday that the problem with the 72 F-100 (wobble
at low speed) was not with the suspension but rather the tires. The tires
had some belts separating. I had the truck for the day and slapped an
extra set of tires and rims on her and the problem disappeared. I also
checked for any loose suspension components and it seemed solid. 2500 in
Tennessee
is a decent price. It may be 300-500 too high in some regions but trucks,
older trucks usually go for a premium. This truck was all original and was
99 % complete.
I have elected not to purchase this truck now for a few reasons, one of
which was the buyer for my car backed out and that left me with no scratch
to buy the truck.
My wife wouldn't allow me to spend a little reserve money on it as the next
baby (3rd and last)is due on October 23rd and she is too worried I wouldn't
be able to unload the old Merc in time when we would really need the $.


My Darling Deacon, I would have sold my old Mercury Grand Marquis with
135,000 miles on it to drive the truck daily so I would have actually made a
buck or 2 on the whole deal. The computer for home is next on the agenda
after the 71 model gets finished in May.

FE/460 wars - just my $.02 -

Most who know me, know I feel the FE is an awesome motor an I am a huge fan
of them,
BUT- If I ever build a street truck for performance, I will probably go with
a 460
as they do a great job on the grin factor scale!

Stu

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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 16:28:26 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 67-72 Gast tank questions

Can someone tell me if the aux. gas tank was different on the 2wd
trucks then the 4wd trucks????If so does anybody reproduce the
aux tank for a 4x4 truck(68 year)
Joe
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 16:53:42 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 OD

Gary writes: >>Since the E4OD can be setup to run without the stock
computer as a retrofit there is no real objection to using it now right?

Anyone got the particulars with this. I would like to find a core in the
salvage yard and build my own tranny and purchase the necessary electronics
to make this work in an older FOMOCO Truck.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 14:07:28 +0000
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - re:How To Remove Ignition Switch?

Donald R. Haulsee wrote:

> I need to replace the in dash ignition switch on my 66 F100. I have tried
> pushing and twisting and every combination I can think of, but I can't get the
> bezel off.
>
> Could someone enlighten me on how to do this? Does the lock cylinder have to
> come out first? If so, how does the lock cylinder come out?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Don Haulsee

It's been a while since I pulled the ignition switch out. From what I remember,
yes the cylinder does have to come out first. Insert the key and then use a
piece of stiff wire in the little hole and the cylinder should come right out.
You might have to turn the cylinder one way or the other.

That wasn't much help huh.


- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 15:31:43 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - air and heat

Warren,

You should have a heater control valve that shuts off the flow of coolant
to the heater when you move the temperature control to cold. If it has been
removed, then your heater works all of the time as soon as the thermostat
opens. There is a capillary tube that goes down inside the insulation
against your evaporator core. If it is not clamped securely to the cold
freon pipe or if it is not insulated from the atmosphere, it will cause
your air to freeze up. It acts as a thermocouple and never cools down to
slow down your system. This isn't very clear I know. Maybe someone else can
be a little more succinct.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left door, new left front fender
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI EAOD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (The software box said Windows95 or better, so I
bought a Mac.)
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 14:17:36 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided

Bill:

They do sound chunky when you dial them in right, don't they? But that's
the beauty of them at idle. WHat do you have total, like when you walk on
it? You want about 40 degrees in an FE. Mine's timed 10 initial and 41
total.

16 lbs of vac at idle is plenty fine. Is your vac gauge rock steady? This
means a lot too.

My vac advance diaphragm was popped and I didn't even know it, kept
wondering why I had to run it way advanced on the hiway. Make sure yours
works properly. That'll help ya really find some power.


marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 14:30:19 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - e-check woes



>Secondly the emissions guy said that cylinders 3 and 5 were running at a
>lower voltage than the rest. He said it indicated worn rings or valves in
>those cylinders.

Low spark voltage on one or more cylinders can be caused by poor
compression on those cylinders, or by fouled spark plugs or bad
wires. Sounds like it's time for a compression check.

>is there. I'm hoping that the compression is good but what can I look for
>then? I have noticed the occasional puff of white smoke at startup. I
>think this means that the valve stem seals or the valve guides themselves
>are gone. If the guides are shot then can I bandaid it with new stem seals?
>What is a good way to narrow this down?

Ford valves stem seals don't last very long. Lot's of times the seals
are way shot, but the guides are still servicable.
The easiest way to narrow it down is to pull off the valve covers and
look at the seals. If they are cracked to little pieces and some are
missing entirely, don't be surprised. I've opened up plenty of 100K
mile motors that only had 3-4 seals left and the rest had disintigrated
and gone out with oil changes over the years...
New stem seals can make a big difference on some oil burners.
A friend of mine has a 351W that smoked real bad on startup and
under deceleration. When I pulled the valve covers last year almost
all the seals were missing...
I put new stem seals in it and now there's no noticable smoke at all.
The guides were still fine.

It's not that hard to change stem seals, and while You've got the springs
off You can check to see how much valve stem to guide clearance there is
at the same time.
I wrote a thingy a while back on how to change valve seals without
pulling the heads. If You wanna read it, go here and look for
"the rope trick"
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/tools


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 17:44:27 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Auto Vs 4/5 sp trannys

Gotta put my $.02 in here. Ive used them all and personal preference is
the key to installing what makes you happy. The C-6 is as tough as they
come in my humble opinion, and I've burned one up. Not the trannys fault
- - mine. I was pulling a 7 bale cotton wagon 20 plus miles in the hills
with seven bales of freshly picked cotton in it. The 428 was sufficient to
do 70 mph, but the tranny got fried I knew better, but in my haste to get
to the gin, I acted foolish. If you are going to USE an automatic be sure
you add an aux cooler. This simple little trick would have saved my C6.
They will last under moderate occasional loads, but if you intend to USE it
as a bulldozer or a Mack under extended loaded copnditions, then an aux
cooler is a must. The C-6 is more expensive - initially and to maintain,
but also offers smooth controllable shifts (up or down) (thats what the
gear selector is for), and will launch a load much smoother than with a
manual. All trannys are good. Just some situations make one or the other
better in those situations.

Flames accepted.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 15:51:20 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - carb options, 77 351M F150

>From: gpark cymer.com
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - carb options, 77 351M F150
>
>I'm looking into a carb for my 77 351M F150. along
>with a cam, manifold, and headers.
>anyway, Holly says their 4160 is legal for vehicles
>that a 4 barrel was optional from the factory. Does
>anyone know if this is the case for my
>(still) hapless 351?

Yo Gregg:

Oddly, Holley lists a couple carbs (#80452 and #80453) as emissions legal
for 351M/400 through 1980, but no M-block that I know of ever left the
factory w/ a 4V carb. I have seen rumors of a '74 or so LTD 400
calibration that had a 4V carb, but I would expect to find some solid
substantiation if that were true. I have found none yet.

At any rate, on a 1980 or earlier M-block you might be able to slip the 4V
carb past the smog cops if you can get a CARB EO (Calif. Exemption Order)
number for it. The only e-legal 4V manifold I know of is the Edelbrock
Performer 400 EGR (#3771).

>Also, I know the 460 is the way to go for goo-boo hoo-poo,
>but until I do that, I wanna just make this 351 go. Then I can
>redo a 460 at my leisure.

Boo poo what?? By now, this part of the thread has been thoroughly hashed
out. Obviously, M-blocks rule!

>That 400M that Hot Rod rebuilt had only something like 70hp
>at the rear wheel! No wonder my motor feels a little weak.

That was a badly neglected and worn out old engine that HR started w/. If
you keep your truck in any decent state of tune and maintenance, and if
it's not chugging oil out the tailpipe from worn rings, your engine is
probably doing considerably better than 70hp!

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 18:06:53 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ??????

Stoney writes: >>Everybody gets to decide for themselves what will float
their boat, isn't that what this country is all about?

Yep!! !! And Yep!!

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 18:43:47 EDT
From: OldTrux aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - re:How To Remove Ignition Switch?

In a message dated 8/17/98 2:58:29 PM Central Daylight Time,
herbie netvalue.net writes:

>
Would you be willing to part with them?
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 19:25:54 -0400
From: "Cam and Wilma Kenny"
Subject: [none]

I have a 1977 F 250 3/4 ton 4x4 standard trany with bo low and soon to be
powered with a 390... everything is stock except for the 390. do i need a
pilot bearing for it? some people i have talked to say yes, some say no.
Any input would be a great help.
thanks.
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 18:22:23 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - A/C Hot When Truck Warms Up

At 08:48 AM 8/17/98 , you wrote:
> I have a 78 F-150 that has factory A/C . I just had the A/C charged and
>check for leaks no leaks found. For a few days the A/C was cool but not
>cold then it just got worst from there. So I notice that if I turned on the
>A/C before the truck has the chance to warm up it would blow cold, but as
>soon as the truck warms up it would blow a kinda room temperature. So one
>day I disconnect the heater hoses from the core and tried out the A/C. Now
>it so cold that when I was going to boat show in Orlando I believe the A/C
>core froze because the air flow coming from the vents was very slow and by
>the time we came out of the boat show there was water still dripping from
>the A/C(about 2+ hours later). When I turned it on it was blowing hard like
>normal. Wanting to know what is suppose to close inside the box that holds
>the Heater and A/C cores to make it where just one flows at a time? Another
>thing what would cause the A/C to freeze up? Suggestions would be great.

Look under the hood at the big black box on the passenger side firewall.
There should be a cable on the top of the box - it controls the door that
seperates the airflow from the heater core and AC evaporator. Make sure
when you adjust the controls from cool to warm the cable moves. Loosen the
clamp and reset the cable is necessary. If the cable seems fine, then the
doors inside are broke, rusted, or leaking. Only way to fix that is to
pull the box. The doors are a two peice setup. They pivot on a rod
mounted inside the box. One door simply clips onto the rod. Those clips
can and will rust out causing the door to not operate. To fix, take out
the bolts from inside the cab and pull the box out.

For your freezing up problem, check the thermostatic switch located inside
the truck, on the left side of the exposed evaporator. Make sure the
capillary tube runs deep into the evaporator fins. If the capillary tube
looks ok, pull the switch and replace it. What that switch is supposed to
do is turn the compressor off when the evaporator gets to a certain
temperature (32-38 or so degrees F).

Mike


_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 18:31:23 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vaccuum Setting Carb

At 10:09 AM 8/17/98 , you wrote:
>Some of you may know that I have recently put a 390 intake on my 360. I
>did a quick tune of the carb when I put it on, then took it to visit my
>g.f. Her dad threw a vaccuum gauge at me and said here ya go, now you can
>get it all tuned perfect. Unfortuantely he couldn't remember what the
>readings were supposed to be, or find a sheet with the listings. I've
>never used a gauge like this to tune a carb either, so if anyone could help
>me out with some pointers, that would be great.

We're talking about adjusting idle mixture right? The total manifold
vacuum will depend on the cam. To adjust the idle mixture, adjust each
mixture screw to get the highest vacuum reading, then go 1/4-1/2 turn
richer. It's similar to using a tach to adjust the mixture. A vacuum
guage is also usefull for setting the base spark advance. Advance the
timing to get the highest vacuum reading, then retard it a couple degrees.
Test drive it and listen for ping - if it pings, retard it a couple
degrees. Works great for getting the most bang from each tank of gas. (93
octane or higher) YMMV as always.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 20:03:18 -0400
From: "Melayne Arnold"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - A/C Hot When Truck Warms Up

- -----Original Message-----
From: Matarrtas
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, August 17, 1998 10:05 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - A/C Hot When Truck Warms Up


>
>
> I have a 78 F-150 that has factory A/C . I just had the A/C charged
and
>check for leaks no leaks found. For a few days the A/C was cool but not
>cold then it just got worst from there. So I notice that if I turned on
the
>A/C before the truck has the chance to warm up it would blow cold, but as
>soon as the truck warms up it would blow a kinda room temperature. So one
>day I disconnect the heater hoses from the core and tried out the A/C. Now
>it so cold that when I was going to boat show in Orlando I believe the A/C
>core froze because the air flow coming from the vents was very slow and by
>the time we came out of the boat show there was water still dripping from
>the A/C(about 2+ hours later). When I turned it on it was blowing hard like
>normal. Wanting to know what is suppose to close inside the box that holds
>the Heater and A/C cores to make it where just one flows at a time? Another
>thing what would cause the A/C to freeze up? Suggestions would be great.
>
>
>
>Thanks
>Warren
>
>F-150 XLT 351M LB
>F-100 351M SB
>
>
Warren,

There's just thin sheet metal between your heater core and A/C, so when your
truck gets warm and pumps water through the core, your A/C has to fight a
loosing battle. Sounds like you're in Florida, about the same weather as
Texas, so do what we do. Just put a simple shut off valve in the heater hose
going to the core. Close the valve in the spring, so no hot water circulates
through the core in the summer time, then open it in the fall so you have
your heater in winter.>


Stoney
>
>
>
>
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>

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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 18:17:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve & Rockette
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - e-check woes

> A friend of mine has a 351W that smoked real bad on startup and
> under deceleration. When I pulled the valve covers last year almost
> all the seals were missing...
> I put new stem seals in it and now there's no noticable smoke at all.
> The guides were still fine.

With no stem seals the valves/guides get lots of oil,
lots of oil = hardly any wear!

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'63 F100 Longbox
'94 Taurus SHO - SWMBO's new car!!
and since most are listing all thier cars:
'72 Capri - Rockette's Toy, aka - SWMBO
'73 Capri - My Toy / Daily Driver
'73 MGB-GT Our Toy
'70 Torino GT My "New" Car


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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 21:23:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: hurdj VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - e-check woes

>
>
> >Secondly the emissions guy said that cylinders 3 and 5 were running at a
> >lower voltage than the rest. He said it indicated worn rings or valves in
> >those cylinders.
>
Low voltage on only a couple of plugs (on a scope) can be caused
by spark plug gaps that are too narrow.
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 21:48:42 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - STEVE VS FTE LIST

I get over 100 emails a day from various lists I'm on, and in an attempt
to reduce my mail load I'm probably going to drop the FTE lists soon

> Steve, I sincerely hope that you don't leave us. I can speak for
everyone I'm sure, your imput is a large part of what makes this list good.


Steve..........PLEASE don't even think about it! ! ! ! Remember what I
told you after I converted my headlites ? ? ? ?
Well, it goes without saying again! ! This list needs you and whether you
believe it or not, you bring to the table a wealth of information and a
lifetime of experience that every FTE in the world can benefit from.


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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 22:13:53 -0400
From: "John & Denise Haydt"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hello from a list newbie

Hello folks,

Just took delivery on my 1978 F100 on Friday and found your list this
weekend. I am going to spend the next few days going through the archives
but I just wanted to say hello and ask three questions. Please speak
slowly and in words not exceeding three syllables, two syllables would be
preferrable.

My title says 1979 but the VIN plate says 1978. A lookup of the VIN on an
internet site gave me the following:

Model Year: 78
Series: F100 - 4x2 Pickup
Engine: 6 Cyl, 300ci (4.9L) 1bbl
Assembly Plant: Ontario Truck
Transmission: Automatic, Ford C6
Front Axle: P.S.
Rear Axle: 2.75 3750lb Ford

1. What year is my truck, really?

2. What does the P.S. mean regarding the front axle?

3. What does the '2.75 3750lb Ford' mean regarding the rear axle?

Thanks. If this information is somewhere in the archives and I'm just not
looking in the right place flame away if you must. I don't mind 'long as
you point me in the right direction. Off list is fine also.

John Haydt
Philadelphia, PA
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 22:13:20 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - STEVE VS FTE LIST

From: Jerry
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - STEVE VS FTE LIST
> Date: Monday, August 17, 1998 9:48 PM
>
> I get over 100 emails a day from various lists I'm on, and in an
attempt
> to reduce my mail load I'm probably going to drop the FTE lists soon

>
> > Steve, I sincerely hope that you don't leave us. I can speak for
> everyone I'm sure, your imput is a large part of what makes this list
good.
>
>
> Steve..........PLEASE don't even think about it! ! ! ! Remember what
I
> told you after I converted my headlites ? ? ? ?
> Well, it goes without saying again! ! This list needs you and whether
you
> believe it or not, you bring to the table a wealth of information and a
> lifetime of experience that every FTE in the world can benefit from.
Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
1970 F100 (ret)


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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 19:24:07 PDT
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: [none]

>>I need to replace the in dash ignition switch on my 66 F100. I have
>>tried
>>pushing and twisting and every combination I can think of, but I
>>can't get the
>>bezel off.

>>Could someone enlighten me on how to do this? Does the lock
>>cylinder have to
>>come out first? If so, how does the lock cylinder come out?

You need to take the cylinder out first. Get a really small allen key
or something similar. Put the key in the ignition (disconnect the
battery first..)turn it to acc, then push the allen key into little hole
in the tumbler. This should release the tumbler and the whole thing
should turn back past "acc" and come out. If your tumbler is still OK
then you can put it into the new switch and keep your old key.

Don Jones, Northern Ontario, Canada

1985 f-150 supercab ~~FOR SALE!!~~
1970 f-250 4x4 (and the smell of bondo at midnight)




______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 22:46:11 -0400
From: "John Miller II"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - STEVE VS FTE LIST

Steve, what kind of mushrooms did you eat up in the mountains on that trek
you took? Dude you can not leave the list, please, we need you.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jerry
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, August 17, 1998 10:10 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - STEVE VS FTE LIST


> From: Jerry
>> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>> Subject: FTE 61-79 - STEVE VS FTE LIST
>> Date: Monday, August 17, 1998 9:48 PM
>>
>> I get over 100 emails a day from various lists I'm on, and in an
>attempt
>> to reduce my mail load I'm probably going to drop the FTE lists soon
>
>>
>> > Steve, I sincerely hope that you don't leave us. I can speak for
>> everyone I'm sure, your imput is a large part of what makes this list
>good.
>>
>>
>> Steve..........PLEASE don't even think about it! ! ! ! Remember what
>I
>> told you after I converted my headlites ? ? ? ?
>> Well, it goes without saying again! ! This list needs you and whether
>you
>> believe it or not, you bring to the table a wealth of information and a
>> lifetime of experience that every FTE in the world can benefit from.
>Jerry
>1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
>1970 F100 (ret)
>
>
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 22:49:19 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hello from a list newbie

At 10:13 PM 8/17/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Hello folks,
>
>Just took delivery on my 1978 F100 on Friday and found your list this
>weekend. I am going to spend the next few days going through the archives
>but I just wanted to say hello and ask three questions. Please speak
>slowly and in words not exceeding three syllables, two syllables would be
>preferrable.
>
>My title says 1979 but the VIN plate says 1978. A lookup of the VIN on an
>internet site gave me the following:
>
>Model Year: 78
>Series: F100 - 4x2 Pickup
>Engine: 6 Cyl, 300ci (4.9L) 1bbl
>Assembly Plant: Ontario Truck
>Transmission: Automatic, Ford C6
>Front Axle: P.S.
>Rear Axle: 2.75 3750lb Ford
>
>1. What year is my truck, really?
>
>2. What does the P.S. mean regarding the front axle?
>
>3. What does the '2.75 3750lb Ford' mean regarding the rear axle?
>
>Thanks. If this information is somewhere in the archives and I'm just not
>looking in the right place flame away if you must. I don't mind 'long as
>you point me in the right direction. Off list is fine also.

My motto: trust the vin. Titles are subject to human error. Concerning
the logs, they aren't the easiest thing to search but I don't have much
choice since they are so large (40+ meg unzipped). You're not likely
to get many personal flames here, FTE seems to require a higher bonehead
level for that to happen than with most lists. 2.75 is the gear ratio,
ie, it's not meant for towing. You need 3.25 or higher for towing anything
heavy. I don't knwo what the 3750lb would be, perhaps towing weight? I
don't have my book in front of me and my 67 doesn't list this.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts....


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