FTE 61-79 - 9" Axles

61-79-list-digest Monday, August 10 1998 Volume 02 : Number 397

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - 9" Axles
FTE 61-79 - Seatbelt followup
FTE 61-79 - REPLACING FLOOR PANELS
FTE 61-79 - Ref: Ted's Air Conditioning
FTE 61-79 - Body Work etc
FTE 61-79 - Oil Problems
FTE 61-79 - Re: 360/390
FTE 61-79 - D70 Front
Re: FTE 61-79 - D70 Front
FTE 61-79 - Back from Reno
FTE 61-79 - Henry's progress
FTE 61-79 - RE: Towers
FTE 61-79 - 460/AOD
RE: FTE 61-79 - D70 Front
FTE 61-79 - what to do, what to do
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460/AOD
Re: FTE 61-79 - what to do, what to do
FTE 61-79 - Heater leak
Re: FTE 61-79 - what to do, what to do
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360/390
FTE 61-79 - RE: 360/390
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360/390
Re: FTE 61-79 - M-block factory cam specs
Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil Problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - Looking for article on FE Head Plug/oil
FTE 61-79 - RE: Looking for article on FE Head Plug/oil
FTE 61-79 - Radiator overflow bottles
Re: FTE 61-79 - Heater leak
FTE 61-79 - heater leak
Re: FTE 61-79 - Radiator overflow bottles

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Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 20:12:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 9" Axles

Joe & Jen DeLaurentis :

I should have said are the internal Axle shafts the same size from
67-72 and 73-79?????

**********
No! The 67-72 are 28 spline and the 73-79 are 31 spline. I found this
out when trying to put a 67 3.50 geared pumpkin in my 75. I had to
have parts swapped around and ended up with a 3.50 geared 31 spline
unit by mixing and matching parts from the 75 and the 67 pumpkins.

75 F100 360/C6/3.50
74 F100 (parts)
68 Fairlane 500 station wagon
61 Starliner (I wish!)
61 F100 Unibody (I wish!)
+Some other unmentionable cars/trucks

==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 23:12:36 -0400
From: Mike and Colleen
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Seatbelt followup

I found a set of belts that should work. They are from an 80's CJ.
They seem long enough and are relatively clean. I will have to make
a bracket for the retractor though, as J**P mounts it on the roll
bar. I still need to get the torx fasteners loose/broken on the
floor mounted female parts, big time rust. I'll let you know how
they work when I get them loose. Thanks for your help Jerry. BTW,
what vehicle did your most recent set come from?

Thanks,
Mike

Also, to the group, what does swmbo mean? I understand, from
context, that it refers to ones wife/girlfriend, but what's the
actual meaning?

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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 13:27:41 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - REPLACING FLOOR PANELS

> Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 08:39:59 +0000
> From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - REPLACING FLOOR PANELS
>
> From: "Jerry"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - REPLACING FLOOR PANELS
> Date sent: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 20:27:55 -0400
>
> > Once you've got the panels cut and shaped to fit, if you drill some
3/8 to 1/2 inch holes any shop can just take a MIG welder and spot weld
the holes in a few minutes.

Why make them work so hard? With sheet metal 3/16 or at most, 1/4"
would be sufficient for a good weld. Larger holes tend to cause too much
dwell in one spot and begs for holes to be burned through. With smaller
holes it only takes a second or two to fill them and make a good hot, well
> penetrated weld in sheet metal.

-- Gary --

........so right you are sir ! ! Smaller holes definitely make it less
likely for a burnthrough. It has been quite some time since I did mine and
all the while I was writing the post, I was trying to picture just how big
the holes were. I couldn't remember exactly so I used the 'ol *
S.W.A.G.* approach. Thanks for the *better idea*.
Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
1970 F100 (ret)

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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 15:02:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marv Miller
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ref: Ted's Air Conditioning

Ted wrote:

>The only thing left right now to do is
>charge her up with cold blowing R12. I split the case on her, put in a new
>heater core, repainted all the metal with a high solids paint, polished
>everything else. That A/C unit looks good as new. Ran all the electrical
>checks according to the manual and everything is a go! Just have to buy
>that R12.

Don't forget to add any necessary refrigeration oil and to use your ol'
trusty vacuum pump to completely evacuate all the air and moisture from the
internals of the system before you dump R-12 back into the system. I don't
know whether or not you do refrigeration work, so I don't know whether or
not I'm only "preaching to the choir". If you're unfamiliar with that to
which I'm referring, get some local A/C help before charging the system.
Pulling and holding a vacuum will also help you spot a problem that will
turn out to be a refrigerant leak when you're through.

- -Marv-

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Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 19:11:54 -0400
From: Jim Freyburger
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Body Work etc

Ok just acquired two 1967 f100, question is I need to do body work
over a long period of time. Any recomendations on what kind of primer
to use. I would hate to have rust pop up after all the work is done.

Thanks.

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Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 20:42:50 EDT
From: wiregoat

juno.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil Problems

Howdy, I've been a lurker here for a while. I have an crumbly '69 f-100
named Yoda. It has wonderful oil pressure while cold, but, when it gets
up to temperature, it has no oil pressure unless I drive 70 mph. This is
no problem. I drive 70 everywhere, but, I would like to fix it. I have
put in a high volume oil pump, changed rod bearings, and the crank
bearings are fine.
The rod journals were
seems fine. Is there a common problem that would explain this.

_____________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 22:50:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: bill
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 360/390

Oh goody! Something I know a little about (well, nobody asks questions
about how to bash your knuckles).

Mike,
I converted my 1968 F100 2wd (360) from a 3 speed to a 4 speed two years
ago. The 4 speed is probably the nicest thing in my truck. If you
are keeping the FE, I suggest finding a Toploader 4 speed and dropping
it in. The toploader is longer than your 3 speed, so you'll need to
have your driveshaft shortened, might need a new speedo cable (depends
on which side the speedo cable enters your 4 speed), and you'll need
to cut a hole in the floor for your floor shift (depending on the
Toploader you get, you might have some trouble w/ the shifter hitting
the bench seat).
Toploaders are legendary for being bulletproof, so longevity won't
be a problem. People on the list seem to be paying between $300 and
($500??) for Toploaders. If you go w/ a toploader, try to get the
shifter included (new Hurst's go for $200+).
If you want more info, ask away. There are a couple of good links
out there (not at work now. Can't get to them tonight)(one has a
schematic of a toploader, so you'll know one when you see it). Another
link has tag numbers for toploaders.
Good luck
Ohio Bill

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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 00:24:57 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 61-79 - D70 Front

On Fri, 7 Aug 1998, am14

chrysler.com wrote:
> >
> > OX writes: >>They made a dana 70 front??? COOL!!!
> >
> > I do not know this for a fact. I've been told that they did make a D 70
> > Front. Never seen one.
>
> There are definitely Dana 70 fronts in existence. Truck pullers use
> them. Something in my dim and foggy memory tells me that these are
> extremely custom applications with knuckles, axles, etc. cannibalized
> from another front end, most likely a 60. Sorry I can't provide any
> more info than that. Anybody have more concrete knowledge than me?
> Sleddog?
>
> Birken
>

There are a couple of PG&E (Pacific Gas & Electric) trucks in the area that
have the Dana 70 fronts. One was on a Ford Super Duty but it was an after
market conversion. The pumpkin was on the passenger side and used a Rockwell
t-case. The hubs, if I remember right were 10 lug dually pattern. The
center section was Dana 70, larger axle tubes, the knuckles looked to be dana
60 parts. the only big difference was the hubs.

In a couple of articles in the 4x rags some of the hard core mud people were
said to have " swapped in Dana 70 axles shafts" in their D 60.

There was this other cool PG&E truck with a MH conversion with 5 ton axles.
Needed a damn step ladder to get in the thing.

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon

pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.

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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 06:41:56 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Back from Reno

Hello Everybody.

I just got back from my trip to Reno for Hot August Nights. It is one hell of
an event, aside from the riots Saturday nightt it was a lot of fun. Anyhow,
while browsing the swap meet I came across 2 things that I bought right away.
I now have an owners manual ($14) and original dealer sales literature ($12)
for my 73 F-250 XLT Ranger Camper Special. The owners manual is neat, but
that sales literature is a gold mine. It has color schemes, dealer options
and all sorts of other info. If anybody has any questions they think that
these 2 little gems I picked up could answer, Please don't hesitate to ask.
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 07:54:56 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Henry's progress

Hey gang,

I got a fender with inner fender, a door, 2 chrome drip rails, and a fan
spacer for $120 from a local bone yard. I refinished the fender and got it
installed last night. The door will take a little longer. I also found
those elusive brackets to do my A6 air conditioner conversion for $10. I
will pick those up in about a week. The guy was great and even pulls
everything off after you pick it out. He had the first golf cart I had ever
seen with a wrecker unit on it. My fender came off of an F250 Ranger that
had the chrome around the windshield. Now I wish that I had paid more
attention about how to get it off. Would someone care to provide a
refresher? If you have to change the rubber seal, then nevermind.

I ordered a four row radiator from HiLo. They had three listed. The
standard 3 row was $180, the heavy duty was $320, mine was listed as heavy
duty with heat buster for $240. All prices are plus tax. Neither I nor the
parts man could figure out the pricing scheme. When it gets here, I'll let
you know the brand and how I like it.

I replaced my u-joints the other day. If any of you have driveline
vibrations, check your u-joints! The u-bolts that hold the drive shaft to
the differential were lose. The last person to service the drive shaft had
installed the rear u-joint improperly in addition to leaving off the lock
washers. I was lucky to find it before it stranded me.

- -John

jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left side, but not for long.
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI AOD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (The box said Windows98 or better, so I bought a
Mac.)
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!

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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 08:13:03 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Towers

>In my experience when swapping my motor the towers would only go on one
>side i.e. boltholes for the left side only matched the left side frame
>rail and the right side mount holes matched the right hand frame rail.

>If you're talking FE towers, one is longer, and the other is shorter. They
>are also marked "RH" and "LH" somewhere on them.

I checked my 69 360 and the long one is on the driver's side.

Jim Elliott

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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 09:09:46 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460/AOD

Keith writes: >>because I would like an AOD behind my 460 too.

So would I.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 09:17:26 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - D70 Front

i've heard of them, but i never saw one. we use d44, d60 and now for the
1000hp+ modified pullers they run either a very custom d60 or a large
rockwell or eaton 2 1/2 ton type axle. you know, the square axle tubes and
a pumpkin so big that 2 people can stick their heads into it at the same
time. they are cut short, and the pumpkin sits dead center of the axle
then. they use the same style in rear axles.

i have seen many times the D70 front listed in magazine articles on trucks,
but in the pictures it is hard to tell if/what the differences are.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Vogt Family[SMTP:vogt

oro.net]
Sent: Monday, August 10, 1998 3:24 AM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Cc: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - D70 Front

On Fri, 7 Aug 1998, am14

chrysler.com wrote:
>
> OX writes: >>They made a dana 70 front??? COOL!!!
>
> I do not know this for a fact. I've been told that they did make a D 70
> Front. Never seen one.

There are definitely Dana 70 fronts in existence. Truck pullers use
them. Something in my dim and foggy memory tells me that these are
extremely custom applications with knuckles, axles, etc. cannibalized
from another front end, most likely a 60. Sorry I can't provide any
more info than that. Anybody have more concrete knowledge than me?
Sleddog?

Birken
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 07:43:00 CST
From: "Rob ."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - what to do, what to do

Hey all,
I have a 1965 F100 that just got the old 352(broken timing chain)
replaced with a 390. All was good till I was tuning it on my driveway,
then all of a sudden it makes very bad noises then stops running
completely. After a bunch of potty mouth went flying, I found the oil
pump driveshaft snapped in half in the oil pan. I replaced the pump and
shaft hoping for the best. Well, the best never happened. Now my 2000
mile rebuilt engine, that I drove for 30 miles, blows oil like a Yugo
and has 60 lbs compression in one cylinder. When I run the engine now it
has 50lbs oil pressure cold and about 20 hot (also hooked up the gauge a
little too late).
My questions are - is it worth rebuilding again, or should I start
looking for another used one (the guy I bought it from couldn't care
less because he figures its my fault). I can't really afford too much
after buying that engine, then blowing the tranny in my other car (LOADS
more potty mouth). Driving it now is a pain because its fresh out of the
body shop and real shiny (another long story with potty mouth), but it
sounds like hell firing on 7.5cylinders (sometimes less) and smokes on
acceleration and deceleration.
Any thoughts/comments/flames on this would be great, and even better
would be someone around Saskatoon, SK with a nice FE for sale.
Thanks for listening to my rant,
Rob Trenouth

______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 10:37:16 -0300
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460/AOD

> From: am14

chrysler.com
> Keith writes: >>because I would like an AOD behind my 460 too.
>
> So would I.
>
> Azie
> Ardmore, Al.

Hey gang check out the Ford (corporate) website, I know Azie you can't but
maybe I can send you some file or something, anyway, The A40D has a large
section in thier Motorsports section explaining amoung other things how
thier Truck racing (class 8, Baja) put over 28 improvements into this trans
in the first year alone of racing it, and those mods all made it into the
production model. Thankfully the model I have is the most improved and
rifined generation available stock. Azie as I will be showing mine at
Pigeon Forge next year you are certainly welcome to drive it and see what
the Multi Port EFI 460 coupled to the A40D feels like. There are several
aftermarket (the serious race builder type) companies who are makeing some
bulletproof A40Ds and the electronics is not as scary as many think. JMHO

Have a nice "torque" filled day :)

John Miller

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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 07:45:13 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - what to do, what to do

From: Rob
> My questions are - is it worth rebuilding again, or should I start
>looking for another used one

It's hard to say until you find out how much damage was done. Taking
it apart is free and it would be damn hard to make things worse. Do you
know why the oil pump seized? Do you know how the oil is getting into
the cylinder? It may be coming in from the top and all you did was bend
a valve or something. Find out what you did and then you'll have a
better idea on what you should do.

Don't you just hate it when nothing goes as planed! Good luck!

Deacon
deconblu

gte.net http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
==============================================
Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm
==============================================

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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 10:32:03 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Heater leak

roberta writes: >>Hi, one of the heater hoses on my 1965 F-100 240 6 cyl
developed a hole in it so I replaced both hoses. Since then, there has been
a leak from the heater area running down the firewall on the inside of the
cab. This does not seem to occur when the truck is running or even
immediately after it's turned off but about 10" after the truck has been
parked, a steady flow of coolant starts running down the firewall...floor
board and out the passenger's side door. I unbolted the heater assembly
and couldn't see anything obvious or even any evidence of leaking with in
the heater itself...just a lot of dust. ? any ideas what may be causing
the leak of coolant ~ 10 minutes after the engine is turned off?

Your Max pressure build up is within a few minutes after you shut the
engine off, so this is a "HIGH PRESSURE" leak only. If you shoved the new
heater hoses up against the cowl real tight and then clamped the hose you
may have sealed the hose to the cowl as well as to the heater core
inlet/exit and you could have a leak between the hose and inlet/exit but it
is getting into the inside because of sealing between the hose and cowl.
Loosen the clamps and pull the hoses away from the cowl just slightly and
retighten the clamps to be sure the leak is really on the inside and not on
the outside but showing up on the inside. You might also check the tube
inlet/exit to the heater core for roundness. I've seen several over the
years that tended to have flat spots in them, and getting them to seal is
an art. You may have to move the clamp in/out a few thousandths each way to
acomplish a good seal.

Good luck

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 11:31:49 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - what to do, what to do

From: "Rob ."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - what to do, what to do
Date sent: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 07:43:00 CST

> I have a 1965 F100 that just got the old 352(broken timing chain)
> replaced with a 390.

> My questions are - is it worth rebuilding again, or should I start
> looking for another used one (the guy I bought it from couldn't care less
> because he figures its my fault).

If it's a factory re-man then you void the warantee when you open it up so
you're out of luck. If you rebuilt it yourself then you made a mistake
somewhere obviously.

Whether you "overhaul" or rebuild now depends on how much time you
have to dedicate to it, how much money you have to spend and the condition
of the parts, particularily the crank and block and heads. You need to
measure them to see what has been done and what is left available to take off
and still have an engine.

Broken pump shaft could be seized pump, bad shaft or combination. If
pickup tube was not replace in build up someone really screwed up. If
pump was not replaced someone really screwed up. On older engines with
canister filters, improper filter assy is a possible culprit. I lost one that way
when I let my son do the oil and filter change without my supervision.

Low compression could be bent push rod, broken lifter, broken or worn
cam or broken ring. Since it smokes I'm guessing broken ring which almost
always means re-bore so pistions have to be replaced.

You really need to take it appart and evaluate things.

Greed is the Creed of the Breed
that did away with the Steed
Visteon, Delphi..........:-(

- -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 09:02:21 PDT
From: "Ethan Hawke"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360/390

Hi everyone

Can someone tell me if the Intake Manifold is the same on the 360 as the
390

Ethan

______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 09:06:36 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: 360/390

Mike wrote: (my reply in >)
- ------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 22:13:38 -0400
From: Mike and Colleen
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360/390

I was going through some of the archives and came across this:

FYI a 360 and a 390 are almost the same engine, just the crank is
different (longer stroke) and the pistons too, (oh yeah, and the
connecting rods). Basically the 360
is a 4.05" bore and a 3.5" stroke, the 390 is a 4.05" bore and a
3.784"
stroke. Same block, same everything else.

>

The 1970 F-100 longbed 2wd I just bought has a 360 3spd on the
column. The heads had been rebuilt by a very reputable shop, the
lower end has 122500/22550 miles on it. I'm not having problems
with it but was wondering if I were to have the lower end rebuilt,
could I have it built as a 390?

rods. >>

What would be the difference in milage?

MPG. >>

My truck is used as a daily driver (no heavy loads... so
far), would there be a significant performance increase?

the 390 seems to have the best balance of power/economy. >>

Lastly, what 4 spd manual would bolt in, could a 5spd from a new truck be
used? I understand that the driveshaft would have to be shortened.

different from the 302/351 and 429/460s. There were manual transmissions
offered. If the bellhousing is removable and the bellhousing to
transmission case bolt pattern is the same you might be able to adapt a
later tranny.

Tom H>>

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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 11:15:53 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360/390

>Can someone tell me if the Intake Manifold is the same on the 360 as the
>390
>
Sure can. It is, I just put a 4V on my 360, the 4V was from a 65 390
Galaxie.

Haven't had time to tune it up right, but it seems to work fine for me.

Bill
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 10:26:18 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - M-block factory cam specs

>From: luxjo

thecore.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - M-block factory cam specs
>
>> One note about the relatively high lift, you will need
>> aftermarket valve springs to support that lift.
>
>What do you recommend for valve springs?

Yo Ox:

Most cam manufacturers recommend specific valve springs to go w/ their
cams, especially their higher lift cams. The only catalog I have handy
that specifies valve springs by lift capacity is the Comp Cams catalog.
The Comp Cams valve spring part numbers for the M-block are:

#972 (for up to 0.530 lift)
#924 (for up to 0.640 lift)

I have had good luck w/ both Comp and Crane valve springs in M-blocks.
There are also other manufacturers that have decent products, but I do not
have personal experience w/ them.

Since you have a Crane cam, I'd check the Crane catalog and see what they
recommend for that particular cam.

>Do you think there will be any V/P interference.

Probably not, IF: (

1) Your valve lifters are the correct lifters for the engine/cam combo, and

2) Your push rods are all the correct length for your engine, and

3) Your rocker arms are stock ratio and function properly, and

4) Your connecting rods are ok and all their crank and wrist pin bearings
are ok, and

5) The engine has the factory stock dished 351M pistons, and

6) The cylinder head/block deck surfaces have not been shaved, and

7) The cam manufacturer's specs are correct for the part you actually got.

IMHO, the most likely causes of valve-piston interference in an M-block
would be shaved deck surfaces and/or non-standard pistons. As long as
everything is factory spec and you're using the stock dished low comp
pistons, you're probably ok w/ any reasonable valve lift (less than 0.600).
If you're using flat top pistons, you could have trouble unless the pistons
have adequate valve reliefs cut in.

The last item (#7) is why all cam manufacturers recommend that you "degree"
the cam to verify the correct grind.

If you are unsure of any of the above items, you should at least test fit
the valvetrain parts and hand-turn the crank to feel for interference (do
this after you degree the cam). If you are really unsure or anxious, pull
the heads and get out the clay. Remember, engine performance and longevity
will never suffer from taking extra care in the assembly.

Good luck w/ your engine.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 13:04:10 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil Problems

From: wiregoat

juno.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil Problems
Date sent: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 20:42:50 EDT

> bearings are fine. The rod journals were
> Everything else seems fine. Is there a common problem that would explain
> this.

If the decimal point is in the right place then I can understand your pressure
problems. That's the spec in tenth, not thousandths for max runout. If you
need 0.0015" clearance, how do you get that with 0.005" run out? If you
clear the high spots by 0.0015" then the low spots are 0.0065" clearance
which is more than enough to cause the pressure drop as well as prematurely
wear the bearings.

How many miles on the crank? Is it a rebuild?

Greed is the Creed of the Breed
that did away with the Steed
Visteon, Delphi..........:-(

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 13:13:29 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Looking for article on FE Head Plug/oil

From: "Michael White"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Looking for article on FE Head Plug/oil
Date sent: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 18:29:20 -0600

> BTW: Can someone define the differences between high flow, high pressure,
> and standard oil pumps?

Standard pump pushes "X" volume at 80 psi or so, high volume pushes
more volume under the same conditions at the same pressure if there is room
for it to flow but otherwise pushes the excess out the relief valve. High
pressure would be a high volume with stronger relief spring and for most
purposes probably damage the engine if the pump drive shaft or distributor
roll pin didn't break first.

For a standard rebuild you don't need high volume, for racing rebuild with
more clearance it's called for to keep pressure up with larger clearances and
for an incomplete over haul (patch it up to keep it running) which doesn't
tighten worn clearnances it may keep the engine alive a little longer due to
better flow to extremities which is due to better pressure when hot (assuming
engine is worn so clearances are greater then when new) etc..

Greed is the Creed of the Breed
that did away with the Steed
Visteon, Delphi..........:-(

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 10:50:56 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Looking for article on FE Head Plug/oil

Michael wrote:
__________________________________
Hmmm.... now I'm getting confused. When I rebuilt my 390, I used a high flow
oil pump in an effort to get more oil to the top of the engine. It seems
like the new gasket set blocked water passages from the heads to the intake
manifold in order to get a better path, but I've never heard of blocking oil
passages. Can anyone provide info on this?

BTW: Can someone define the differences between high flow, high pressure,
and standard oil pumps?
===============================

It seems that in some racing applications there is a problem with pumping
the sump dry due to excess flow to the top of the motor. The restrictors
they mention are to slow down the flow of oil to the top of the heads and
keep it around the cam bearings and main bearings. I guess it doesn't take
very long to grenade a motor at WAFOT with no oil the mains 'cause the pump
is sucking air. ;0) There is also another type of restriction that has to
do with solid lifter vs hydraulic lifter motors. Solid lifters don't need
oil like hydraulic ones do and if it is a 427 solid lifter motor the
hydraulic lifter oil galleries are blocked off. Check Steve Christs' book
for an example of the damage caused by forgetting this.

High volume pumps are used in racing applications where greater bearing
clearances are used. Usually high performance engines create more heat and
thermal expansion is increased. Because of this the bearing clearances are
opened up. With a larger gap to fill more oil must be pumped to the
bearings. Sometimes a high mileage engine can be squeezed for a few more
miles till the rebuild by installing a high volume pump. The greater wear
of the high mileage engine produces the greater bearing clearances and the
high volume pump is used to keep up. In this case it is simply a stop gap
measure to postpone the inevitable rebuild. A high volume pump consumes
more power than a standard pump and its benifit is questionable in stock
applications where the clearances are in spec.

Tom H.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 10:56:41 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Radiator overflow bottles

Anyone retrofit one of our trucks with an overflow bottle? After the thread
on the benefits of lack of air in the cooling system I installed an
aftermarked overflow bottle and burped the air out of the system. Shortly
after that I noticed two things.
1. There is a sticker on the radiator support specifing that there should be
a clearance between the water level and the filler in the radiator. I
believe this is because in this application there is no expansion tank.
2. My heater started leaking. I'm pretty sure that there is a leak
somewhere in the core and it will have to be replace. Seems funny though
that it happened when I put the tank on and remove the air volume on top of
the radiator.

Could this have caused the heater to fail? If I put a new core in will it
blow out also? I currently have the core bypassed cause I don't need it
here in CA but if my transfer to ME ever goes through (been working on it
since November now) I think it MIGHT come in handy this winter!! ;0)

Tom H.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 11:12:00 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Heater leak

At 10:32 AM 10/08/98 -0400, Azie wrote:
>retighten the clamps to be sure the leak is really on the inside and not on
>the outside but showing up on the inside. You might also check the tube
>inlet/exit to the heater core for roundness. I've seen several over the
>years that tended to have flat spots in them, and getting them to seal is
>an art. You may have to move the clamp in/out a few thousandths each way to
>acomplish a good seal.
>
>Good luck
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>

Two other things ensure good sealing of hoses:

1.Grease the fitting before slipping the hose over it. This not only
makes a good seal but makes the hose easier to remove later. Same trick
used on tires, ALWAYS get your beads greased before installation.

2.If one hose clamp won't do it, install a second hose clamp right next to
the first, but put the screw part 180 degrees away from it, in the opposite
direction. This can eliminate some puckering of the hose. Remember to
tighten the clamps evenly and in steps. Use a 5/16' socket, not a
screwdriver.

marko in vancouver
marko

dsm.ca

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 14:27:47 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - heater leak

Roberta,

I'm going to take a stab at your problem. What kind of clamps are you
using? If they are not stainless steel band type with the screw/bolt to
tighten it down, the first thing is to get these. It is unlikely that you
still have the OEM clamps. Next, both heater core tubes must be round or
pretty close. It soounds like you don't have a good seal and it is leaking
inside after the engine shuts down and builds pressure in the cooling
system.

Good luck.

- -John

jlagrone

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