61-79-list-digest Wednesday, August 5 1998 Volume 02 : Number 393



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: 400M build
FTE 61-79 - Valley pan intake gasket/factory cam psecs
Re: FTE 61-79 - Undersized Crank journals
FTE 61-79 - Please help me keep my tractor ALL FORD
FTE 61-79 - 352/360 heads
RE: FTE 61-79 - Valley pan intake gasket/factory cam psecs
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Garage Power
Re: FTE 61-79 - CARB CHANGEOVER 2V to 4V
FTE 61-79 - wires
FTE 61-79 - Steering problem on 79 F150
Re: FTE 61-79 - After market seatbelts
Re: FTE 61-79 - 352/360 heads
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering problem on 79 F150
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering problem on 79 F150
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering problem on 79 F150
FTE 61-79 - Top Loader 4sp
Re: FTE 61-79 - PS - box interchange
FTE 61-79 - Fw: ELECTRIC CHOKE QUESTIONS
FTE 61-79 - Fw: CARB CHANGEOVER 2V to 4V
FTE 61-79 - MASTER CYL COLOR
FTE 61-79 - Fw: CHROME PLATING ON PLASTIC PARTS
FTE 61-79 - 400M in Hot Rod
FTE 61-79 - RE: 61-79 - PS - box interchange
Re: FTE 61-79 - Fw: ELECTRIC CHOKE QUESTIONS
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: 61-79 - PS - box interchange
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering problem on 79 F150
Re: FTE 61-79 - 400M in Hot Rod
Re: FTE 61-79 - 400M in Hot Rod
FTE 61-79 - truck mail URL
FTE 61-79 - IN-CAB FUEL TANK PROBLEMS
Re: FTE 61-79 - IN-CAB FUEL TANK PROBLEMS
Re: FTE 61-79 - IN-CAB FUEL TANK PROBLEMS
Re: FTE 61-79 - Undersized Crank journals

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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 98 12:26:45 PDT
From: Molly & Garry Catalano
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: 400M build

I went and bought the Sept issue yesterday and was impressed. About a year ago I built a 400m for my shop truck, and did just about everything they did but the cam. I bored it .040 over and put an edelebrock alumium manifold and a holley 4bbl. The truck has more power than stock but gas mpg sucks. After reading the article I`m considering the cam swap.Wonder what it will pull then? Garry
- --- On Sun, 02 Aug 1998 16:48:28 -0400 luxjo thecore.com wrote:

>Man!!
>
> I gotta get this article :-). I figured on 1000$ for used 460 and misc
>parts just to get a 460 in. Thats a lot of money I could sink into a
>400M rebuild. I would love even a 300 HP, 400M. I went to my local mag
>rack the other day, but the hot rod they had did not have that article.
>Guess I'll have to search somemore.
>
> OX
>
> OX
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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 13:13:12 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Valley pan intake gasket/factory cam psecs

Just curious why you need this type on 351M/400? Last time I put it
together, I did not use the valley pan intake gasket. Granted, I only
got 70 miles before oil pump seized, but everything seemed fine with
standard type intake gaskets.

Also, the 78, 351M factory cam specs are

Lobe lift .235 I/E
Theortical valve lift at zero lash- .4065 I/E

How do I compare this to aftermarket cam spec's?


Thanks
OX
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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 13:35:21 EDT
From: bobherring juno.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Undersized Crank journals

My brother-in-law has an 89 Ch vy 3/4 ton with the 350 in it.
The oil pressure started getting low after about 140,000 miles
so he pulled the pan and started checking the bearings. Much
to his suprise, there were not two bearings the same size on
any of the mains. I think he had something like .009 to .022
bearings. The .022 even eliminated it from being used for a
core on a re-ground crank.
He talked to the local parts man and he said this is getting a lot
more common. They grind the crank and have a bin of bearings.
They just put in the one that fits the crank instead of grinding to
a specific size and having all the bearings same size.
This was an original crank. Had never been worked on.
I have never heard of this on a Ford. Has anyone else?
Bobby
>Colorado Jeff writes: >>Does anyone feel that there would be a problem
>with a newly-ground crankshaft that is 0.040" under (main) and 0.020"
under
>(rod)?...
>
>>I, too, have never seen this much undersize in an automotive
crankshaft.
>>It all depends on what you are going to do with the engine and what
family
>>engine it is. I've always set my standards on .010/.010, but I mistreat

>>engines quite often. I often times put 6 tons on a 1 ton (F-350)
flatbed,
>>so you can see I don't pay a lot of attention to GVW ratings either.
>>Azie

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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 12:56:27 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Please help me keep my tractor ALL FORD

I need everybody on the list (or at least a coupla of ya) to take a look
under their hood and see if their alternator is like this. I have a 1964
Ford tractor that I am converting from 6V to 12V. Now, there are plenty of
such conversion kits but they all use a GM alternator that I can find. I
want to keep my tractor ALL FORD. So I am looking for a Ford alternator
that will closely fit my mounts. However, I need to know what to ask for
at AutoZone. Specifically, I need it to have a 3-point mount. What I mean
by that is that it does not have a big thick mounting boss that runs the
length or almost the length of the alternator for the pivot point. It must
go in place of a generator so it needs to have 3 mounting holes, each of
which will be no more than 1/2" thick. Two of them should be in line to
make the pivot point and the other one 180 degrees around for the
adjustment slot (preferably threaded but I can do without that luxury).
The pivot mount on my tractor is U-shaped. If you cannot visualize what I
am getting after, look in the upper left hand corner of page 182 of the JCW
catalog (mine is number 616-1E), that is exactly what I want (it's the
picture with "Lifetime Warranty" in the middle of it but you can see the
mounting points). You guys with generators on your trucks probably know
exactly what I am talking about.

I don't care if it is external or internal regulator, I actually would
prefer external because the wiring is already there for it and most older
Fords are external anyway. My main concern is NOT to sully my Ford with
off-brand parts.

Thanks in advance for any help. Feel free to email me direct for further
descriptions or discussion.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 13:50:57 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 352/360 heads

Hmmmmmm,

I have a set of 360 heads off a '68. Should be the same head, right? I was
going to have them freshened up, but this is intresting. I should be able
to do this with 360FE heads, right? I have a spare FE in the shop and want
to make a 410 out of it, but ......

Think it'll work?

Later,

-Ted
________________
I plan to put together a stocker someday for my F250, and build the
block I have as a 406. I have a set of '64 352 heads that with big
valves installed are just like a CJ head performance wise( an old
circle-track secret). With a little clean up and CJ intake valves and a
set of Ch*vy 1.72 exhausts these will be some fine breathing and burning
heads. Throw in a 312d .520 lift cam and a 3X2 bbl 406 intake. No
sweeter sounding engine at full song.... While I'm dreaming, how about
a '61 Starliner to put it in?

Walter Mitty signing off,

Ahhh.... gotta go get some air....
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 14:02:41 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Valley pan intake gasket/factory cam psecs

the valley pan is not a requirement, but it will help keep hot oil off the
intake's bottom. many other engines people fabricate valley pans.

as for the cam, duration is a better comparison for cam size. lift is
really a consequence of duration, and designed valve acceleration rates.

sleddog

- ----------
From: luxjo thecore.com[SMTP:luxjo thecore.com]
Sent: Monday, August 03, 1998 1:13 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Valley pan intake gasket/factory cam psecs

Just curious why you need this type on 351M/400? Last time I put it
together, I did not use the valley pan intake gasket. Granted, I only
got 70 miles before oil pump seized, but everything seemed fine with
standard type intake gaskets.

Also, the 78, 351M factory cam specs are

Lobe lift .235 I/E
Theortical valve lift at zero lash- .4065 I/E

How do I compare this to aftermarket cam spec's?


Thanks
OX
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 14:11:11 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Garage Power

Date sent: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 16:57:11 -0700
From: tom
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:Garage Power

> As one of them electric utility types, I need to say a few things here.
> First, opening a plain old magnetic main breaker IS NOT adequate

It's interesting that NEC finds them adequate for protection of citizens in
their homes to disconnect power to work on the wiring etc. but not the other
way around?? Not arguing just making a point.

What are these visible disconnects called and what do they look like? Are
main breakers really magnetic or are you talking about relays like used in
machines? I thought the switch lever manually disconnected and connected
the contacts? Again I'm not arguing, just trying to understand what we are
talking about and what to look for.

Greed is the Creed of the Breed
who did away with the Steed...

- -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 14:21:21 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - CARB CHANGEOVER 2V to 4V

From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - CARB CHANGEOVER 2V to 4V
Date sent: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 22:49:25 -0400

> Question: since I have a 77 351W, what might I have to do to this carb
> to
> make it usable and safe and properly jetted and etc., etc.

Just based on engine size I'd say you are pretty close already. The smaller
engine will have less effect in the venturis at any given rpm so larger jets
might be in order but I'd try it like it is to start. If it misses at higher rpms at
WOT then it may be lean but the plugs should tell the tale.

Greed is the Creed of the Breed
who did away with the Steed...

- -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 13:25:05 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - wires

Ed, If the wiring is fried, find out why, then figure out what to replace
it with. If the wiring is what's called "fusible links" and you replace it
with copper, then something else will cook as soon as you hook up the
juice. If you do replace a fusible link with copper, be sure that you have
an appropriate in-line fuse or auxilary fuse box on the battery end. Be
sure that whatever device you are hooking up uses a full 12 volts. You
called the wires "resistor wires". If they do indeed cause resistance, the
device may not handle 12 volts, in which case a copper wire hookup will
turn it to toast.


- -John

jmlagron tenet.edu
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left side
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI AOD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (When speed counts, count on Macintosh)
1979 MC under restoration (my son is rebellious, but he loves old cars!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 15:23:33 -0400
From: "Marc A. Stine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering problem on 79 F150

Was hoping somebody might be able to help out with this one. I can't
turn left (only a little) in my 79 F150. It has been sitting for about
2 1/2 years after a little accident, now that I thought we had
everything fixed, on the trial run over the weekend it would run out of
steering when I turned left, I mean it reached the limit and the wheels
probablly didn't even turn to the 11:30 position. Any ideas? I know I
should probablly look into the steering box but I have no idea what to
look for or how to change anything that might be bad. Any help or
direction or anything would be greatly appreciated.

Marc

mstine ycp.edu
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 14:25:31 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - After market seatbelts

From: "Ryan Livingston"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - After market seatbelts
Date sent: Sat, 01 Aug 1998 10:36:08 PDT

> I can see the ground. My question is can/should I use the factory bolts
> with the set up or should I enlarge the hole with a drill(that I don't

I'd use the factory bolt on both sides unless the eye of the belt bracket
doesn't fit well. If you drill and tap the hole in the body work you need to be
carefull to get good threads or the belts will be unsafe. If you mean drill the
brackets for the factory bolts then, depending on how much metal there is
around the hole I'd say that's the safest way to do it and keeps the installation
looking stock.

Greed is the Creed of the Breed
who did away with the Steed...

- -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 12:17:47 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 352/360 heads

>I have a set of 360 heads off a '68. Should be the same head, right? I was
>going to have them freshened up, but this is intresting. I should be able
>to do this with 360FE heads, right? I have a spare FE in the shop and want
>to make a 410 out of it, but ......
>
>Think it'll work?
>
>Later,
>
> -Ted

No. The 360 heads aren't the same as the early 352 heads.
Early ('65 and earlier?) 352 heads have the larger ports, just
like the 428CJ heads. They can be dressed with the larger CJ valves
to create 428CJ style heads on a budget.
I have an excellant article submitted to Fordnatics by Dave Schouweiller
a couple years ago on FE heads. I tried to contact Dave about a year ago
to get permission to repost the article to Fordtrucks, but wasn't able
to get hold of him, so I'm rather hesitant to repost the article to the
list...
If You would like a copy of his very good article, let me know and I'll
send You a copy privately.

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 15:52:14 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering problem on 79 F150

Marc A. Stine wrote:
>
> Was hoping somebody might be able to help out with this one. I can't
> turn left (only a little) in my 79 F150. It has been sitting for about
> 2 1/2 years after a little accident, now that I thought we had
> everything fixed, on the trial run over the weekend it would run out of
> steering when I turned left, I mean it reached the limit and the wheels
> probablly didn't even turn to the 11:30 position. Any ideas?

Either air in that part of system or part of directional valve is bad.

I would pull the rubber hose off the low pressure line coming from
steering box 9 unless you have solid line cooler on crossmemeber, then
you have to open low pressure port on pump to drain fluid. Drain all the
fluid from box and pump. If there was air in fluid, you probably heated
(burned) it up and foamed the heck out of it. I did this several times
when I thought I had a bad PS box.

After you get fluid out, put line back on and fill PS pump. Start
engine and run for 2 seconds. Shut off engine and refill. Do this until
PS pump is full when engine is running. This will help avoid foaming up
fluid with air. Jack up both wheels so no resistance is on tires. Turn
wheels one way and quickly recheck fluid with engine running. Add fluid
as often as you can while turning wheels back and forth. Try to keep
pump from running out of fluid, cause once it gets air and foams, you
can turn wheels back and forth all day and not get rid of air in fluid.
I spent days on this. I never had this type of problem with air in PS
system until my 78 Truck.

If this does not work, it is the box. Upper end of box where ports are
unbolts, but I'm not sure exactly where direcitonal control valve is or
if it can be replaced. Do not open lower part of box as is has 100 ball
bearings in it and they will fall out all over the place. BTW, you can
have air in one half of box and not the other. When I had air, it would
steer one way sort of, but not the other. I replaced the box also, but
I'm pretty sure there was nothing wrong with box. It just seemed weird
that if it was air in system, why would box would steer one way and not
the other, but it can happen. Rebuilt boxes are $280+, ouch!!
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 15:43:00 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering problem on 79 F150

Date sent: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 15:23:33 -0400
From: "Marc A. Stine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering problem on 79 F150

> Was hoping somebody might be able to help out with this one. I can't turn
> left (only a little) in my 79 F150. It has been sitting for about 2 1/2
> years after a little accident, now that I thought we had everything fixed,
> on the trial run over the weekend it would run out of steering when I
> turned left

Did you take off the pitman arm at any point during the repairs?
The keys allow it to be positioned every 90 degrees so if it's in the wromg
position you will run out of box before you run out of linkage etc..

Pull the pitman arm off, rotate the steering wheel from lock to lock and find
center and reinstall the arm with tires centered.

Greed is the Creed of the Breed
who did away with the Steed...

- -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 16:09:41 EDT
From: A4T1RAT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering problem on 79 F150

Did you put a lift kit on this truck??? if so you may need to add a dropped
pitman arm....
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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 15:36:21 -0500
From: Tim Sherva
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Top Loader 4sp

Thanks for all the input
I bought the trans. yesterday but haven't taken the cover off yet
shifts in/out of each gear and spins free
but like I said badly needs front bearing
I guess for $50.00 I can't complain if its a 3+1 or
straight 4.

Ever since I bought my 66 f100 running for $450
the deals just keep comin, I'm not complaining

Tim Sherva


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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 19:38:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: metalheaddude webtv.net (Paul Drozdowski)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - PS - box interchange

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From: "J Elliott"
To:
Subject: FTE 61-79 - PS - box interchange
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 09:22:31 -0500
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Hopefully a simple one: Will the Ford integral power steering box from 73-79
interchange with the one on my '69?



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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 21:51:43 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fw: ELECTRIC CHOKE QUESTIONS

From: Jerry
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: ELECTRIC CHOKE QUESTIONS
> Date: Friday, July 31, 1998 10:59 PM
>
> Hi Guys -
> Having just acquired an electric choke coil & cover, I realized I don't
know anything about them as far as wiring them up.
> This one is a NAPA aftermarket replacement part and has two terminals, 1
male & 1 female marked *S* and *A*. There is a 3rd contact with no
terminal marked with *T*.
> Several schematics I have for trucks with an electric choke only show 1
wire going to power this thing.....an orange colored wire.....so what is
the other one for and why is a non-terminal marked with a *T* ? ?? ? ? The
Carb this part is on was for 74-76 Ford F-series.
> Also, does it stop drawing current after a spell ? ? ? Not sure how
these things work.
>
> Jerry
> 1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
> 1970 F100 (ret)
>
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 22:09:00 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fw: CARB CHANGEOVER 2V to 4V

From: Jerry
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: CARB CHANGEOVER 2V to 4V
> Date: Friday, July 31, 1998 10:49 PM
>
> Hey Guys -
> I just acquired a 4V carb & manifold, almost by accident while in a
machine shop snooping around yesterday.
> The carb is a Fred Jones (everybody knows him, right ?)
> Holley model D5TE-EA. Apparently it originally came on a new vehicle
because there is only the Ford pt # stamped on it. By process of
elimination using the Ford tag #, it is either a Holley model 3160 or 4150
or 4160. I bought a OH kit for it and the chart for adjustments in the kit
says this carb only came on 74-76 390 FE's in Ford Trucks.
> Question: since I have a 77 351W, what might I have to do to this carb
to make it usable and safe and properly jetted and etc., etc.
> Jerry
> 1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
> 1970 F100 (ret)

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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 22:11:48 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - MASTER CYL COLOR

From: Jerry
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: 61-79-list-digest V2 #387
> Date: Friday, July 31, 1998 10:00 PM
>
> > Subject: FTE 61-79 - COLOR OF MASTER CYLINDER
> >
> > Would anyone know what color and what finish the master cylinder should
be?
>
> Tom H wrote:
> > I don't think there was a factory color for the master cylinder. So
the answer is probably "cast iron" or in the case of older trucks "rust".

>
> then Azie wrote:
> > All master cylinders I've ever seen on these model FOMOCO trucks are
natural cast iron - no paint. The boosters are black - sort of semi gloss.
>
> Hey Guys -
> I hear what you are saying but...... what do the show trucks use as a
color or finish when they are being judged in a show?
> ( Is there such a thing as a truck show ? ? ?)
Jerry
> 1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
> 1970 F100 (ret)
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 22:15:36 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fw: CHROME PLATING ON PLASTIC PARTS

> From: Jerry
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: CHROME PLATING ON PLASTIC PARTS
> Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 10:30 PM
>
> I seem to remember a very long time ago reading something about the
bright metal chrome plating on plastic dash parts , but I guess I wasn't
paying enough time reading it at the time to remember any of it.
> Is there a way to re-new this plating ? Has anyone found a company that
> will put on a new coating ? I thought for sure Eastwood would have
> something but their catalog doesn't show it.
> If there is no replating, is there anything else one could do to make it
> shiny again ??
>
> Jerry
> 1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
> 1970 F100 (ret)
>
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 21:19:10 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400M in Hot Rod

>From: "Hogan, Tom"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400M in Hot Rod
>Just got this month's issue of Hot Rod. They feature a buildup on a 400M.
>468 lb-ft, 380 Hp and less than $2000.

Tom H,
Thanks for the info. I was able to find the September issue at the library
but didn't find it on the newsstands. This article is a "must read" for any
M block fans.
later,
dale c

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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 23:00:59 EDT
From: CATLN7 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: 61-79 - PS - box interchange

>Hopefully a simple one: Will the Ford integral power steering box from 73-79
>interchange with the one on my '69?

Yes, if you have 2WD.

Chris Thompson
67 F100 302/C4 finally!!!
68 Cougar DGS 302/C4
82 Merc LN7 1.6L/4sp
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 20:39:41 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Fw: ELECTRIC CHOKE QUESTIONS

>> Hi Guys -
>> Having just acquired an electric choke coil & cover, I realized I don't
>know anything about them as far as wiring them up.
>> This one is a NAPA aftermarket replacement part and has two terminals, 1
>male & 1 female marked *S* and *A*. There is a 3rd contact with no
>terminal marked with *T*.
>> Several schematics I have for trucks with an electric choke only show 1
>wire going to power this thing.....an orange colored wire.....so what is
>the other one for and why is a non-terminal marked with a *T* ? ?? ? ? The
>Carb this part is on was for 74-76 Ford F-series.
>> Also, does it stop drawing current after a spell ? ? ? Not sure how
>these things work.
>>
>> Jerry

O.K., You've asked twice and no one has gone for it, so I'll take a
stab at it... (-:
Electric chokes are nothing more than a coiled up chunk of nichrome
wire that heats up and opens the bi-metallic choke element.
Traditionally there's just 2 connections. One is a ground for the heater
and the other goes to a switched +12 volt source so the element heats up
when the key is on. It sounds like "S" and "A" are Your connections.
Probably the male one goes to +12 and the female one to ground, but it
doesn't really matter, cuz the heater doesn't care which way the current
flows thru it. Since this is an aftermarket item, maybe the "T" terminal
is a center tap on the heater so it can be run on 6 volts, but that's just
a guess...
If You have an ohmeter, You can check for resistance between terminals.
Electric choke heaters are usually in the 10-20 ohm range. If You find
about that resistance between "S" and "A", then those are Your connections.
Then check between "T" and either "S" or "A" and see if You get resistance.
If it's about 1/2 of the "S" to "A" value, then it's probably a 6 volt tap.
If not then, uhhh, I dunno...
If You don't got an ohmmeter, the other thing You can do is open the
thing up and look at the heater element. Whichever terminals the ends
of the heater wire connect to are the ones to use.
Just ground one end of the heater, and connect the other to a 12 volt
source that comes on with the key.(In the "run" position, not "accesory")
The choke will start opening as soon as the key is turned on.
Some alternators have an "auxiliary terminal" that only has 12 volts on it
when the engine is running and the alternator is putting out juice.
If You connect the choke to this alternator terminal, then it will start
to open once the motor is running and the alt is putting out, rather than
when the key is on. Either way of connecting it works fine...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 00:06:23 EDT
From: GMPACHECO aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: 61-79 - PS - box interchange

I'm going to do my 72' from a 76'

Mike in Seattle
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 08:28:38 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering problem on 79 F150

From: luxjo thecore.com
Date sent: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 15:52:14 -0400
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering problem on 79 F150

> running out of fluid, cause once it gets air and foams, you can turn
> wheels back and forth all day and not get rid of air in fluid. I spent
> days on this. I never had this type of problem with air in PS system until
> my 78 Truck.

Me too untill I bought a rebuilt pump and in the instruction sheet (I know, I
cheated) it says to do this with engine off to bleed it but be carefull to move
the steering wheel slowly or it will push fluid out the cap. It really works, try
it :-) After reading this post I realized why it works.......with pump off there
is no "reintroduction" of air, only fluid gets moved. You may have to do this
a few times to get it all out but mine was a dramatic improvent over the
running method (which I've always used with some success BTW) :-)

The 78 has a "new" pump design which is obviously different from the ham
can and round earlier versions so apparently requires this method.

Greed is the Creed of the Breed
who did away with the Steed...

- -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 08:46:33 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400M in Hot Rod

Dale and Donna Carmine wrote:
>
> >From: "Hogan, Tom"
> >Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400M in Hot Rod
> >Just got this month's issue of Hot Rod. They feature a buildup on a 400M.
> >468 lb-ft, 380 Hp and less than $2000.
>
> Tom H,
> Thanks for the info. I was able to find the September issue at the library
> but didn't find it on the newsstands. This article is a "must read" for any
> M block fans.
> later,
> dale c

Can someone fax me this article. I looked everywhere, but I can't find
it. I want to order a cam and stuff for my dead "M" this week. I'm just
curious what they had to say about this build up.

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 10:17:11 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400M in Hot Rod

From: luxjo thecore.com
Date sent: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 08:46:33 -0400
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400M in Hot Rod

> Can someone fax me this article. I looked everywhere, but I can't find
> it. I want to order a cam and stuff for my dead "M" this week. I'm just
> curious what they had to say about this build up.

Don't have it with me or I would, it's about 8 pages of junk and text. What I
got from it was that they opened up the cast iron manifolds quite a bit and
cleaned them up (exhaust) instead of putting headers on and light porting to
clean up bumps etc in the ports, port matched the manifolds, intake and
exhaust, stainless valves Comp Cam 268 max energizer or some such
(somebody help here?), Holley 550 - 625 cfm carb either 4v or 2v but with
vacuum secondarys, dual plane manifold (can't remember if they specified
brand), 8 qt oil pan, cast pistons (silvolite) and 9.45 static compression.
They also used a 3.25 rear gear with 2200 rpm stall converter but with wide
ratio gear set this might be over kill depending on tires etc..

Basically all they did was make it the way it should have come from the
factory, clean and open with small runners, cast valve guides, moly rings
etc.. They claimed the cam gave it a nice smooth idle yet insisted on using
the high stall converter to get off the line. Claimed 370# at 2k rpm which I
would think would be adequate torque without the high stall??

Greed is the Creed of the Breed
who did away with the Steed...

- -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 11:27:04 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - truck mail URL

I lost the post with the new truck mail URL to set up my STMP and POP3
for my truck mail box. Anybody have it handy?

Greed is the Creed of the Breed
who did away with the Steed...

- -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 20:32:11 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - IN-CAB FUEL TANK PROBLEMS

Some time ago, someone wrote to advise of a problem with
the fuel pickup tube in an in-cab tank on 68-72's plugging up somehow.
If you're still out there, I would like to know if you ever got it
unplugged and/or how you solved the problem.
I think I have the same problem but mine only occurs when you let the tank
run down near empty. Fill it up , then it runs OK.
Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
1970 F100 (ret)

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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 21:12:48 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - IN-CAB FUEL TANK PROBLEMS

It sounds to me like you have a hole in the pickup tube, rather than a plugged
one. Everything probably works fine untill a certain point, the It up and
goes "bow-tie" on you. I would pull the pick up tube and replace it, It will
almost certainly solve your problem.
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 19:12:18 -0600
From: "Michael White"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - IN-CAB FUEL TANK PROBLEMS

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jerry
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 6:39 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - IN-CAB FUEL TANK PROBLEMS


>Some time ago, someone wrote to advise of a problem with
>the fuel pickup tube in an in-cab tank on 68-72's plugging up somehow.
> If you're still out there, I would like to know if you ever got it
>unplugged and/or how you solved the problem.
> I think I have the same problem but mine only occurs when you let the tank
>run down near empty. Fill it up , then it runs OK.
>Jerry
>1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
>1970 F100 (ret)
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

Perhaps it would be a good idea to remove the tank, and rinse it out.
Couldn't you push a piece of wire (coathanger) through the tube to make sure
it is clear? I wouldn't worry to much about damaging the screen at the end
of the pickup tube, because it is probably part of the problem now. A
transparent inline fuel filter could also be helpfull.
If you are anywhere near Salt Lake City, Utah then I would sell you a
cab tank (with new fill hose, clamps, and cap) that came from a 68 F250
Camper Special for only $5 (or trade for headlight chrome for a 69 F250)

Michael

69 F250 360 auto
69 F250 CS 390 T18 Posi 3.54




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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 21:04:22 -0700
From: Blaine Strong
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Undersized Crank journals

bobherring juno.com wrote:
>
> My brother-in-law has an 89 Ch vy 3/4 ton with the 350 in it.
> The oil pressure started getting low after about 140,000 miles
> so he pulled the pan and started checking the bearings. Much
> to his suprise, there were not two bearings the same size on
> any of the mains. I think he had something like .009 to .022
> bearings. The .022 even eliminated it from being used for a
> core on a re-ground crank.
> He talked to the local parts man and he said this is getting a lot
> more common. They grind the crank and have a bin of bearings.
> They just put in the one that fits the crank instead of grinding to
> a specific size and having all the bearings same size.
> This was an original crank. Had never been worked on.
> I have never heard of this on a Ford. Has anyone else?
> Bobby....


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