61-79-list-digest Wednesday, July 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 388



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil Pump
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C
FTE 61-79 - COMING SOON- 68-72 Body side moldings
FTE 61-79 - Iditit Colomn
FTE 61-79 - COMING SOON- 68-72 Body side moldings
Re: FTE 61-79 - Electric lines to garage - for working on old Ford Trucks
FTE 61-79 - FTE 61 - 79....66 F100
FTE 61-79 - Electrical woes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Harbor Freight
Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 Steering Column Problem. Need Advice!
FTE 61-79 - I beams
FTE 61-79 - Another question on Rear Main Seal
FTE 61-79 - RE:351C
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tstat for operating elect fans
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Last chance to nominate us!
FTE 61-79 - 351C's
Re: FTE 61-79 - Electric lines to garage - for working on old Ford Trucks
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C
Re: FTE 61-79 - COMING SOON- 68-72 Body side moldings
FTE 61-79 - Re:Electric lines to garage - for working on old Ford Trucks
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:351C
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:351C
FTE 61-79 - Shop manuals
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Electric lines to garage - for working on old Ford Trucks
Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil Pump
Re: FTE 61-79 - Another question on Rear Main Seal
Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61 - 79....66 F100
FTE 61-79 - Shoulder belts in a 66
FTE 61-79 - RE: Was 410 rebuild, Now 390 Rebuild
FTE 61-79 - 351W Rebuild
FTE 61-79 - disc brakes
FTE 61-79 - Front disc
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351W Rebuild
FTE 61-79 - 1974 F350 ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61 - 79....66 F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Electric lines to garage - for working on old Ford Trucks
Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61 - 79....66 F100
FTE 61-79 - fan shroud feedback
FTE 61-79 - tubeless tires

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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 18:17:03 -0400
From: james oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil Pump

am14 chrysler.com wrote:
>
> Ox writes: >>Seems Gary was right. I tried rotating oil pump shaft with
> ratchet.
> It's frozen big time. This oil pump only has 70 miles on it. Oil
> pressure seemed fine (although high) when I left the house. I don't
> think it ran wihout oil pressure for more than a split second, as distr
> gears stripped immediately.
>
> It really annoys me that I put in a new part and it ruins my engine.
>
> When you replaced the oil pump, did you make sure the pickup tube and
> screen was cleaned out??? Sounds like the pump got some trash in it and
> locked down.

When I put the pickup tube on, it looked like new to me. I did not
flush it out, but I did not see any debree inside the end of tube or at
the screen end. The oil pan was extremely clean for 150K miles. I'll be
very surpirsed if oil pump has junk in it (then again, I was surprised
that it was oil pump to begin with :-). I will put in a new pickup if I
fix motor, just to be sure.


When you pull it, take it apart and examine it closely.
> Those things have very tight clearances - no room for any foreign matter.
> You'll need a new oil pump shaft as well probably. Maybe the crank was
> saved by the fact that the dist quit at the same time and killed the
> engine. Hope you find minimal damage there.

Thanks, me too

OX

>
> Azie
> Ardmore, Al.
>
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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 16:54:35 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C

>From: GMPACHECO aol.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C
>
>Let see that last one really sounded like I don't know
>a thing ( pretty close) it was suppose to say ok beside
>the manifold and carb, what other differences are the
>engines 351C 4V and 351C 2V ?

Yo Mike:

Other than manifolds and carbs, the major difference between the 2V and 4V
Cleveland engines is the cylinder heads.

There were three different 4V cylinder head designs w/ various combustion
chamber volumes, from 62.8 cc to 75.4 cc. Factory compression ratios
ranged from 11.7:1 to 9.0:1. All 4V cylinder heads had bigger valves (2.19
intake, 1.71 exhaust). The 4V cylinder heads have big ports to feed the
bigger valves.

The 351C 2V cylinder heads all had larger 76.2 cc chambers and smaller
valves (2.04 intake, 1.65 exhaust). Factory compression ratio for 2V
engines was 9.5:1. The 2V cylinder heads have smaller ports.

In factory configuration, the 2V engines also had milder cams than the 4V
engines.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 17:43:38 -0600
From: Drew Beatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - COMING SOON- 68-72 Body side moldings

No doubt. I'd really like to keep the chrome look on mine. I have all the
pieces but they are really bashed up.

Does anybody know if the 1" wide chrome with black paint was used past '67?
Seems to me I have seen it before.

BTW, my hard drive crashed a head. I lost all email addresses. If I have
been in email contact with you lately please send me a message so I can
remake my address book.

Thanks,

Drew Beatty
dcbeatty rmi.net


>Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1998 18:49:17 -0400
>From: Ken Payne
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - COMING SOON- 68-72 Body side moldings

>At 04:19 PM 7/25/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Here's a quick note about new reproduction body side moldings for 68-72
>F-series trucks coming soon.

>Dang! I've got a 67.....

>Ken

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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 19:07:28 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Iditit Colomn

Pull yours out and measure it and try to get as close to yours as you
can.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 19:34:02 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - COMING SOON- 68-72 Body side moldings

you wrote:
>Here's a quick note about new reproduction body side moldings for 68-72
>F-series trucks coming soon.
(snip)

Is the upper, the lower, or both?
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 17:38:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve & Rockette
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Electric lines to garage - for working on old Ford Trucks

> Resistance of copper wire *does* go down as temp drops, by about
> 0.223% per degree F, so a wire has about 16.7% less resistance at 75F than
> it does at 150F. Not a whole lot, but not insignificant either.
> PVC conduit is a crappy conductor of heat, so a wire in free air will run
> *much* cooler than one in plastic conduit...
> (temperature coefficients taken from table 84 of "American Electricians
> Handbook" copyrights 1913-1942)
>

What you want to use is USE wire (underground service entrance)
Go with wire that is rated for twice the amperage that you're going
to initially run, that way you're able to upgrade the service when you
get all your toys/tools.

> If You can get the temps down approching 0 degrees K, the resistance of
> the copper will go down to damn near nothing and You can get mega amps
> thru a fairly small wire... (-:
>

The other option is 460V/3 phase, your average 2HP electric motor will
only use about 3.8A at lock..........


Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'63 F100 Longbox
'94 Taurus SHO - SWMBO's new car!!
and since most are listing all thier cars:
'72 Capri - Rockette's Toy, aka - SWMBO
'73 Capri - My Toy / Daily Driver
'73 MGB-GT Our Toy
'70 Torino GT My "New" Car


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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 17:44:32 PDT
From: "L Ron Hoover"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61 - 79....66 F100

Hi,
I have a 66 F100 with a 240-6, and a 4 spd tranny-granny gear. I have
the same problem with the vapor lock and was wondering what a good
engine size would be to replace the 240. I don't want to change the
tranny.

Thanks
L Ron Hoover
Cheyenne, WY

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:38:16 -0400
From: Garry Bowling
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Electrical woes

Well I went to a car/truck show in Gadsden Alabama on Sunday and had my
truck in the show and judged however its real hard to compete against
trucks that aren't daily drivers and are in original/mint condition down
to the decal but who cares I had a good time anyway.

On the way back when we were about 40 miles from the house my turn
signals stopped working. We made three stops on the way back.

We made it home without any other problems. Well after we had been home
approx an hour and a half I went to start the truck and put it in the
garage and it would not turn over. So I immediately suspected the
starter solenoid. Well after replacing it on Monday that turned out to
not be the problem. I had a much bigger problem. It just kept
growing. As it turned out the Voltage Regulator was shot. So I
replaced the regulator with a heavy duty regulator and also replaced the
alternator. I did not replace anyway of these items during the
restoration. I was hoping they would last longer. Once I replaced all
of these and hooked everything up we still had a problem. The last
problem was the ground bolt to the engine block for the alternator and
battery was stripped and would not stay tight. Needless to say I seeked
out a hole in the frame and moved the ground to there. I now have a
good ground and everything seems to work.
SWMBO call my truck Christine after the Steven King Horror movie. It
has a life of its on and is always up to tricks.
Just thought I would share this with everyone.
Garry Bowling
67 F100 Longbed (Christine)


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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:32:59 EDT
From: Trs2000 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Harbor Freight

I agree with the quality issue. Some of their tools are below flea market
quality. I just ordered some items from them. They were of pretty poor
quality. I bought a set of files that came in a plastic sheath so thin I took
a file out to look at it put it back in place and shreaded the case.......


Dennis
66f100
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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:47:12 EDT
From: Trs2000 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 Steering Column Problem. Need Advice!

I'm right in the middle of a ps conversion. I replaced the steering box with
a power unit from a 73 f150. I believe a 73-79 unit are all the same. What
you'll need to do is flatten out the crossmember that holds the motor mounts.
The new pump is longer that the original- but not by much. I heated the
crossmember with a torch and pounded the end of it flat enought to be able to
line up the 3 bolt holes in the frame. I grabbed the column out of the same
truck so I knew the length would be ok. I bolted the box to the column and
just picked up some new mounting bolts for the column to dash. Looks like I'm
going to have to shim the space between the column and dash. As for the
wiring I don't know yet. The ps pump should be off a 390 or 360 from what
I've been told.

Dennis
66f100 ps/pb on the way
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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:40:09 -0400
From: Garry Bowling
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I beams

I have access to disc brakes for my truck. The brakes are coming off of
a 76 F150. Does anyone know if the 76 I Beams will fit on the 67 or
should I just get rid of them and use mine?
Garry Bowling
67 F100 Longbed (Christine)

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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:32:06 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Another question on Rear Main Seal

Well with the rear main cap off I tried like the Ford shop manual
drop the crank 1/32 and insert screw and pull out seal(HAHAHAH)
mine just pulled out a little seal on both sides...So I decided
to pull the engine and have it on the stand! Now can i remove
the main caps and the piston bottom caps and remove the crank
and do it like this???Or will I screw up the bearings????

- --
Joe
- --
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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 19:16:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:351C

Mike in Seattle wrote:

>Whats the diff beside the manifold and carb >between a 351 2V and 351
4V?

The majore difference between the 351C-4V and 2V is the heads. They
provide 10:1 compression ratio and larger valves and huge ports. The
351-4V engine breathes better than a 460. The cam timing is also
different. You cannot put a 4V Manifold on a 2V engine (except for an
aftermarket unit made for the 2V engine). To convert to a 4V you need
the heads and they are rare. That's why I said a 4V engine for $300.00
was worth it.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351-4V
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 19:18:36 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tstat for operating elect fans

Azie asks:
>Don/Steve: Where did you get the "kit" for the Elect fans??? Are they
>common aftermarket offerings. I don't recall ever seeing them around here
>in any of the parts places I frequent!!! Is there an adjustable Tstat
>offered that you could solder or pressure clip to the radiator end near
>the neck opening for the returning flow to the engine???? Is there a
>stock offering on some vehicle that could be adapted to our beloved old
>FOMOCO trucks???

What I got wasn't a "kit", just a bunch of loose parts I got from
Kragen auto parts. (large auto parts chain, may be Kragen/Checker/Shucks
auto parts in other parts of country)
The thermostat is about $16. I found another one just like it at a
local salvage yard a few weeks ago for $3... You may be able to find
them at an industrial supply house if You can't get one at Your local
auto parts store. The ones I've got look like this...
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/show-n-tell/fantherm.jpg

I wouldn't try and solder one to the rad, I think the heat of soldering
would kill it. It could be clipped to the rad somewhere, or solder a tube
into the rad to slip the therm probe in to.
The relay I used is the infamous "Bosch style relay" that I use for
the headlight relay conversion. I get those at the auto parts store
for under $3. Look in the aftermarket lighting section...
The relays look like this:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/relay/bosch01.htm



Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 22:22:10 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Last chance to nominate us!

Nominations close on August 1st.

Car Lounge is taking nominations for the #1 automotive site
for Autumn 98. Due to the support from list members in the
Spring, Ford Truck Enthusiasts won 1st place for the Summer
98 award. If you would like to nominate Ford Truck
Enthusiasts, please visit:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://carlounge.com/nominate.htm

Regards,
Ken Payne
Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:27:48 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351C's

> Whats the diff beside the manifold and carb between a 351 2V and 351 4V ?

The 351C 2V's have much smaller ports and valves than the 4V. They also
have open combustion chambers fron '71 on. There were a few 2V's with
the "quench" chambers in '70. These went on to become the "Aussie"
head.

The 2V 351C with the open chambers is a pretty good runner, but no match
for the 2V "quench" head. If you put them on a 351W block (higher deck)
with a 400M crank and M*par 6.123 in rods, (with available custom
pistons) you have one hot little mama. The 4V is a race piece, they're
pigs off idle. But look out at 3500 rpm's, they are the best stock
small-block head ever made from 3500 rpms up.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 20:23:15 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Electric lines to garage - for working on old Ford Trucks

>> If You can get the temps down approching 0 degrees K, the resistance of
>> the copper will go down to damn near nothing and You can get mega amps
>> thru a fairly small wire... (-:


> The other option is 460V/3 phase, your average 2HP electric motor will
>only use about 3.8A at lock..........
>
>
>Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach

Yeah, I wish... around here the local utility Co. wont even talk to
You about pulling 3-phase into a residance.
Too bad, I've got a nice 4000lb 3-phase chain hoist that would be real
sweet for moving truck parts around the garage...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 23:33:53 EDT
From: GMPACHECO aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C

Yes it does have disc brakes.... Ya hoo..anyway pulled one tire and its pretty
rusty, but I believe cleanable. This truck has been sitting 3 years come to
find out. Here are some numbers I found on the engine ( metal tag )

351C 72-5
F19 K604S
Don't know what that means ? is it actually a 72' ?

Also on the manifold it has...

a big # 4 then

DIAE-9425-DA

My 72' shop manual does not give any indications regarding 351's could I
bother you for some help figuring what the heck I have?

Thanks
Mike in Seattle

supposedly this engine came out of a 71' Mustang !!
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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 23:37:13 EDT
From: GMPACHECO aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - COMING SOON- 68-72 Body side moldings

Are these side molding s towards the bottom, not in the middle ??
Mine are at the bottom, but I have seen several fords that have them in the
middle ?

Mike in Seattle
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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 20:22:22 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:Electric lines to garage - for working on old Ford Trucks

sdelanty sonic.net wrote:
> NEC allows #4 thhn wire to be run at not more than *95 amps* in conduit
> (not more than 3 wires in a conduit, or direct earth burial) or up to
> *140 amps* in free air... Note that this does not significantly affect
> the voltage drop that occurs across the wire, only the max allowable
> current that can be run before the wire is considered to be too hot.

And Gary complained:
}And that was the point of my discussion with the electrician, it
doesn't matter
}how hot the wire gets if the voltage drops too much and I contend that
at 140
}amps in free air there will be some additional voltage drop over the
95v in
}conduit? If we stretch it a bit and put cold air around it we can get
more
}amperage but will the voltage still remain stable? I don't think so.
Are you
}saying I'm wrong? If so I may have to rethink some of my projects :-(

Steve Again:
> No,no, not saying You're wrong... only that the code allows more current
> for wiring in free air, so Your electrician wasn't entirely full of it...

And remember, the NEC doesn't care about lights dimming - That's YOUR
problem.
All they care about is safety - shock and fire hazards. Wire ampacities
are set
up to keep the wires below rated temperatures in the respective
enviroment -
voltage drop is a side issue, until you start your compressor!

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 23:39:29 EDT
From: GMPACHECO aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:351C

Figures... I sent in all the info I could find on the engine, I'll wait and
see what everyone has to say... my fingers are crossed... but I don't think
so..

Mike in Seattle
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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 00:08:07 EDT
From: GMPACHECO aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE:351C

We'll looked in my shop book....... the carb is a 2100 so that answers my
question regarding 2V... Oh well, I'm going to totally rebuild the motor...
heads..cam, crank.. whatever.. everything.. where can I get info regarding
sizes a specs.. ??


Mike in Seattle
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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:14:45 -0700
From: "Jim Cron"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Shop manuals

I have ended up with a set of Ford 1980 Car Shop Manuals (Ford, Mercury,
Lincoln), set of four books, body and chassis, engine and running gear,
diagnosis, maint. and lube. Put out by Ford Parts and Service Div. I don't
need them, will sell for postage. Drop me a line if you can use them. They
aren't worth a hoot for Ford truck work IMHO (Ford truck content).

Jim



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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 00:53:05 EDT
From: GMPACHECO aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C

In a message dated 98-07-28 18:56:04 EDT, you write:


----------------------- Headers -------------------------------- >>
Dave, thanks for the info, looks like when I rebuild I won't have a problem..
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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 07:12:59 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Electric lines to garage - for working on old Ford Trucks

Date sent: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 20:22:22 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:Electric lines to garage - for working on old Ford Trucks

> And remember, the NEC doesn't care about lights dimming - That's YOUR
> problem. All they care about is safety - shock and fire hazards. Wire

Here's what they told me: "We usually find the largest amp draw appliance
and calculate the wireing based on it's LRA". What if two things come on at
the same time? I said. "We only have to provide 75% of the rated service"
they said. "So how much would it cost me to get 200 amp with no sag?" I
asked. "Don't know, have to figure it out" they said and that's the last I've
heard from them in 6 months.

If I'm willing to pay the differance, what's the big deal?? Probably afraid
they will set some kind of precedent they will regret later eh?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 08:25:56 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil Pump

Date sent: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 18:17:03 -0400
From: james oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil Pump

> When I put the pickup tube on, it looked like new to me. I did not
> flush it out, but I did not see any debree inside the end of tube or at
> the screen end. The oil pan was extremely clean for 150K miles. I'll be

The varnish which gets deposited on the inside of the tube is very shiny and
smooth and looks like a discolored steel rather than a deposit of any kind. It
peels off like onion skin, is very thin and comes off in cylinders of material
about .001 -.003" thick which is enough to jam the pump. The one I looked
at had a very large piece loged in it and still had the shape of the tube evident.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 08:41:07 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Another question on Rear Main Seal

Date sent: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:32:06 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Another question on Rear Main Seal

> Well with the rear main cap off I tried like the Ford shop manual
> drop the crank 1/32 and insert screw and pull out seal(HAHAHAH)
> mine just pulled out a little seal on both sides...So I decided
> to pull the engine and have it on the stand! Now can i remove
> the main caps and the piston bottom caps and remove the crank
> and do it like this???Or will I screw up the bearings????

On the stand it's a piece a cake :-) Get some vacuum tubing of 5/16 ID size
(thin wall) and cut slightly longer than the length of the stud on the
connecting rods, one for each stud. Remove the caps and put the tubing on
each stud as you go before attempting to do anything with the crank. Once
all rods are protected, push all the pistons up into their cylinders as far as
they will go keeping in mind that some of the valves are open and can be
bent if too much pressure is applied. Now take off all the main caps and lay
them in the order you take them off. They should be numbered but you
never know :-) You will also need to take off the front cover and remove the
timing chain to remove the crank. Once the crank is out set it on end on a
flat surface out of harms way so it can't be knocked over and do your
repairs.

If the crank is scored, take it to a shop and have them polish it. If it's heavily
scored, spend the $75 or so and have it ground and replace the bearings with
under sized ones. When reinstalling the bearings, clean off the backs of the
bearings and the main bores and rod bores so they are completely dry.
The bearing contact with metal in the bores is very important for heat sinking.
When installing the crank, oil the crank, not the bearings and you will be able
to retain the dry backs for best results. While you're at it you may as well
plastigauge the bearings to make sure they fit but if the crank is reground they
should be right on the money. If not you can tighten them up about 0.001"
by carefully sanding the caps but no more than that. If it's more than that
you need to align hone the bores or recondition the rods as needed.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 09:35:32 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61 - 79....66 F100

From: "L Ron Hoover"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61 - 79....66 F100
Date sent: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 17:44:32 PDT

> I have a 66 F100 with a 240-6, and a 4 spd tranny-granny gear. I have the
> same problem with the vapor lock and was wondering what a good engine size
> would be to replace the 240. I don't want to change the tranny.

The 6's have the same bolt pattern as the small block v8s so a 302 or 351W
(not 351M or 400) will work but the 6 mounts differently so you will need to
get the stanchion and other mounting hardware including the transmission
cross member from a donor truck to make the swap easy. You will also
need the flywheel and clutch assy from the new engine and all accessory
brackets as well.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 08:51:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Shoulder belts in a 66

I want to upgrade my orginal 66 lap belts to lap/shoulder belts. JC Whitney sells
retractable belts for about $100. They also sell NON-retractable belts for $30.
Has anybody ever used these non - retractables? This is going to be my daily
driver so I want to get something that won't be a pain to use every day and it
seems that non retractables might get in the way since they don't retract, but for
$140 I could get some other needed items (like shocks).

Thanks,
Bryan

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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 09:05:29 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Was 410 rebuild, Now 390 Rebuild

>
> Lets see ! ! ! Divide $1150 by 250,000 miles and you come up with $.0046.
> Sounds like a deal to me. You'll have basically a new engine that in my
> opinion will last for the 250,000 miles so you come up with less than half
> a cent per mile cost for engine. You didn't mention boring the block. If
> you are going to dish out for new pistons, why not go at least .030" over.
> Difference of cost of pistons will be nominal and roughly $5 for each hole
> to bore. Just something to think about.

That would be for the '69 390 I have in my '67, I wish I had a 410
"builder."

That cost would include an overbore. I'd likely go .030" over as you
said. It would be a new engine from stem to stern. I'd be bearing a
big responibility to put it together in a way worthy of it, but I think
I can. I haven't built an engine in a while, but my brother-in-law
builds them all the time. Let's see, a 12 pak of tall Beasts... maybe
he'd lean on the counter and tell me what I need to do at those critical
junctures....

Any reccomendations on machine work, what works or doesn't?


- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 07:24:27 PDT
From: "steve hoyt"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351W Rebuild

I have a friend who is going to have a 351W 2V rebuilt, balanced, and
blueprinted to slap in his 79 F100 2wd. He's trying to work on a budget
of under $2k and wants to get the most bang for his buck. The machine
shop says that the basic package (including the balance and blueprint)
is going to run him about $1100, that leaves him about $900 to make
power improvements. This truck is going to be used for awesome sound,
running light to light, and your basic cruising. Any thoughts from the
list would be welcome, we were thinking maybe cam and 4v?

TIA

Steve Hoyt
'62 F100 Unibody 292 (soon to be IFS)




______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 10:59:17 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - disc brakes

Previous memo should have also stated that the truck was a F-250 also.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 10:57:40 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Front disc

Ken writes: >>All 73s-79s had front discs, nice thing to get for a 65-72
conversion.

May be true of the 2wd, but I parted out a '75 4X4 that had drum brakes and
closed knuckles on the front. I still have the axle.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 11:38:22 -0400
From: Jay Grover
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351W Rebuild

Hey Steve,
You should probably take a look at Edelbrock's "Total Power Package".
You won't be able to get the total kit (heads, cam, intake, carb) for
$900, but you should easily be able to get the "starter" kit with the
cam, intake and carb. This is the setup that I'm going to get for my
bracket racing '80 351W Mustang. I believe they offer three different
packages for the 351W (based on operational rpm ranges). You would
probably want the Performer level which optimizes torque and horsepower
from off-idle to around 5500 rpm.
I haven't really been able to find another set of matched components
which offer similar performance for the price.

Jay

steve hoyt wrote:
>
> I have a friend who is going to have a 351W 2V rebuilt, balanced, and
> blueprinted to slap in his 79 F100 2wd. He's trying to work on a budget
> of under $2k and wants to get the most bang for his buck. The machine
> shop says that the basic package (including the balance and blueprint)
> is going to run him about $1100, that leaves him about $900 to make
> power improvements. This truck is going to be used for awesome sound,
> running light to light, and your basic cruising. Any thoughts from the
> list would be welcome, we were thinking maybe cam and 4v?
>
> TIA
>
> Steve Hoyt
> '62 F100 Unibody 292 (soon to be IFS)
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

- --
"but, this one goes to eleven..."
Jay Grover
jgrover mbvlab.wpafb.af.mil
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glasscity.net/users/jcg
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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 10:48:50 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1974 F350 ?

Have a 1974 F350 would like to know tranmission type and dif. type.

37 tn f377 e 8 a 27j 52 is punched on the door plate.

Also does anyone know of a quick or easy way to replace the radial

arm bushing?

Thanks

Larry

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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 09:33:22 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61 - 79....66 F100

At 09:35 AM 7/29/98 +0000, you wrote:
>From: "L Ron Hoover"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61 - 79....66 F100
>Date sent: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 17:44:32 PDT
>
>> I have a 66 F100 with a 240-6, and a 4 spd tranny-granny gear. I have the
>> same problem with the vapor lock and was wondering what a good engine size
>> would be to replace the 240. I don't want to change the tranny.
>
>The 6's have the same bolt pattern as the small block v8s so a 302 or 351W
>(not 351M or 400) will work but the 6 mounts differently so you will need to
>get the stanchion and other mounting hardware including the transmission
>cross member from a donor truck to make the swap easy. You will also
>need the flywheel and clutch assy from the new engine and all accessory
>brackets as well.

My 66 F100 has the 240 six with a Warner T-18 4 Speed. I am going to
replace it with a 390FE. All you have to do is move the Stanchions back,
Ford was kind enough to pre drill the mounting holes in the cross member
for you. Drop the engine in, bolt everything up, replace the Radiator with
a "V-8", read larger, Radiator. Simple easy swap.



Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ

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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 09:33:50 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Electric lines to garage - for working on old Ford Trucks

>Here's what they told me: "We usually find the largest amp draw appliance
>and calculate the wireing based on it's LRA". What if two things come on at
>the same time? I said. "We only have to provide 75% of the rated service"
>they said. "So how much would it cost me to get 200 amp with no sag?" I
>asked. "Don't know, have to figure it out" they said and that's the last I've
>heard from them in 6 months.
>
>If I'm willing to pay the differance, what's the big deal?? Probably afraid
>they will set some kind of precedent they will regret later eh?

Gotta love the "what do we care" attitude don't Ya... )-:

Sooo, uhh, I sent a list of wire resistances per K/foot the other day..
If You know what Your max current is for any combination of favorite tools,
and You know how long Your wire run is, and know what YOU consider to be
the max allowable voltage drop, it's real easy to figure out what wire
size You need.
Send me the numbers if You want and I'll crunch 'em for You, and You can
just tell the guys "string it with this size" and write 'em a check.
No need to wait 6 months to not get an answer from them, it's not 5 minutes
worth of 6th grade math...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 09:45:46 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61 - 79....66 F100

>>> I have a 66 F100 with a 240-6, and a 4 spd tranny-granny gear. I have the
>>> same problem with the vapor lock and was wondering what a good engine size
>>> would be to replace the 240. I don't want to change the tranny.

An FE will bolt right up in place of the 240. I did a 240 to 390 swap
on my '71 and it was so easy it almost fell in by itself while I sat
on the porch and drank beers...
You'll need to get a 390 bell housing for Your tranny, a gas pedal assy
for a V-8 (has a shorter arm than the 6 cylinder one), and an appropriate
radiator. The motor mount support stanchions need to be moved back about
2-1/4". On the '71, Ford already drilled the holes in the frame for them.
I had to extend the wire for the oil pressure sender about 4" also...
That's it...it's an extremely easy swap.

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 11:44:32 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - fan shroud feedback

Thanks for the feed back on the location of the fan with relation to the
shroud. I definitely need a longer spacer.

I have been involved in my other hobby for the last few days, bowling. I
won the state championship in my division at the Games of Texas this past
weekend in Lubbock. My son took second in his division. We drove the
Towncar over 800 miles in 2 days. Now I remember one reason I own it.

- -John

jmlagron tenet.edu
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left side
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI AOD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (When speed counts, count on Macintosh)
1979 MC under restoration (my son is rebellious, but he loves old cars!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 11:45:21 -0500....


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