61-79-list-digest Thursday, July 16 1998 Volume 02 : Number 374



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Diff. gears
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 F & 70 R Sources
FTE 61-79 - Steering column turn signal collar instillation problem
FTE 61-79 - Re: R134 vs R12
Re: FTE 61-79 - P-n-P Parts, was Re: I'm Back!
Re: FTE 61-79 - P-n-P Parts, was Re: I'm Back!
FTE 61-79 - FTE vultures descend on Windsor Pick'n'Pull!
FTE 61-79 - re: 410?
FTE 61-79 - FE's & Gas Milage
FTE 61-79 - 63 F-100 Front Wheel Cylinders
Re:FTE 61-79 - 63 Front Drum Brake Wheel Cylinders
FTE 61-79 - 4bbl intake
FTE 61-79 - Steering box
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE's & Gas Milage
FTE 61-79 - Re: NEW WHEELS FOR $50-60 BUCKS
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE's & Gas Milage
FTE 61-79 - Diesel
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE's & Gas Milage
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 F & 70 R Sources
FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79-list-digest Burned Valves
FTE 61-79 - Frame width
FTE 61-79 - Adding Belly tank to Supercab
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79-list-digest Burned Valves
FTE 61-79 - oil pressure gauge
Re: FTE 61-79 - NP 205 Rebuild/FE Oil Pan
Re: FTE 61-79 - Diesel
Re: FTE 61-79 - NP 205 Rebuild/FE Oil Pan
FTE 61-79 - Power window's
FTE 61-79 - power window's
Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE vultures descend on Windsor Pick'n'Pull!
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE's & Gas Milage
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE's & Gas Milage

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 20:22:07 -0600
From: "Michael White"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Diff. gears

>
>> BTW, you can get the gears out without a case spreader. Two pry
>> bars, four hands, and a lot of care will do it. It's not a pretty
>> sight.
>
>The trick is to keep it absolutely parallel with the case as you pull
>on it. The bearings are not a press fit but a zero clearance fit and
>have some width so if you cock it even a little it will bind like a
>brake drum. If you get the right balance it will come out easily but
>that's nearly impossible to do which is why the spreader is used
>professionally. I found patience and very small corrections helpfull
>:-) Pounding or reefing on it won't get it done without damaging
>something. A gentle tug with a pry bar in the right place, back and
>forth from side to side will get it done with patience. Getting it
>back in can be a real test of this very rare quality (patience) :-)
>


I have found that a "large rubber deadblow mallot" works great for
removing the differential without the aid of a case spreader (while pulling,
hit ring gear side to side). It is kinda tricky installing the diff without
a helper, as it is a tight fit and it's rather heavy. If you sit facing the
housing, hold the diff at the ends (to keep races on bearings), you can
place the diff in the housing (rubber deadblow helps here too).
BTW: I'd wear gloves for this entire project

Michael

69 F250 360 auto
69 F250 CS 390 T18 Posi 3.55


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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 21:33:45 -0500
From: "JAMES MERLO"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 F & 70 R Sources

I am in the process of hunting down the parts to put a 460/NP435 into my 62
f350. What did you do about motor mounts? custom fabricate? Did you add a
crossmember? What about exhaust manifolds/what did you use? Did you keep
the original beam front axle and steering box.

By the way, my Spicer 70 has 5.13 gears.

I appreciate your help
Jim

- ----------
> From: Vogt Family
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 F & 70 R Sources
> Date: Monday, July 13, 1998 1:48 PM
>
> I am looking to put a Dana 60 front and 70 rear under my '61 to handle
> the 429. Being a cheapskate, I would like to know the kind of "normal"
> pickups they came under, in order to hopefully get one off a private
> party's donor truck, rather than from a truck dismantler who will charge
> the full value. And incidentally, what is the full value for these? I
> am looking for around ~3.5 something gear ratio.
>
> Birken
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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 22:52:31 -0500
From: jedolson juno.com (JOHN E DOLSON)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering column turn signal collar instillation problem

A couple of weeks ago, when I had to replace some steering column parts
on my 1976 F-150, I couldn't get the turn signal collar reinstalled
correctly. The problem is that I cannot get the bearing in the center of
the collar to fit all the way down on the steering shaft. Does anyone
know how to get the collar on properly? I got the steering wheel on and
everything works fine, but the collar moves around alot when I'm driving.

JOHN

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 23:21:31 -0500
From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: R134 vs R12

- -----------------------------
>
>Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 22:41:25 -0700
>From: Pat Brown
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: R-134 vs R-12
>
>Don Jones wrote:
>>
>> I was speaking to my refrigeration contractor today. He tells me
>there
>> is a new refrigerant gas that is a "drop in" replacement for R-12.
>> "drop in" meaning that it is compatible with the mineral based oil
>in
>> most r-12 systems.
>
>It's been around a while, developed by George Goble(?), do a search on
>GHG-12, you'll probably come up with something. It's opponents don't
>like the fact that it is a mixture of propane and butane, they're
>worried about 3 lbs of explosive fuel inside a car (gee, I guess they
>wouldn't like my 18 gallon in-cab gas tank, either). The proponents
>state that the only reason it was banned (from auto use) was due to
>the fact that DuPont couldn't make any money from it.
>
>> Don Jones
>> 70 f250 4x4 (tall and ugly)
>> 85 f150 supercab (long and ugly)
>
>Pat Brown
>Sebastopol, California
>
George Goble lives right here in West Lafayette, IN; I've seen him
driving his HUMMER. He is famous both for his new refrigerants (R-406A
and R414A, trade name Autofrost) and for lighting a charcoal grill in
under 3 seconds using only a cigarette and several gallons of LOX. Check
him out at his (very cool) websites:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ghg ecn.purdue.edu (his personal site) or

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.autofrost.com (all the poop on Autofrost)

Bring a fast modem, because these sites are full of pix, audio and video
clips.
Go Purdue! lordjanusz

'94 F150 (300ci) '73 F100 (360ci) '97 Saturn (SWMBO's)

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 21:50:46 +0000
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - P-n-P Parts, was Re: I'm Back!

sdelanty sonic.net wrote:

> Wanna meet me at Pick'n'Pull friday morning?
> I could get in a bit of shopping before work, I think P'n'P opens at 8:30AM.
> Maybe Don G. would meet us there too... You listenin Don?

Pick'n'Pull, Pick'n'Pull, Pick'n'Pull, Pick'n'Pull, :-P~~~
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 19:13:46 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - P-n-P Parts, was Re: I'm Back!

Steve wrote:

> Yeah? I've got a job to do in Windsor sometime friday...
> Wanna meet me at Pick'n'Pull friday morning?
> I could get in a bit of shopping before work, I think P'n'P opens at 8:30AM.
> Maybe Don G. would meet us there too... You listenin Don?

Count me in. I'll be in a white/blue baby bronco - tires are too scary
on the
F-250!

Pat Brown
102 today in Sebastopol, California! Cool!

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 23:20:45 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE vultures descend on Windsor Pick'n'Pull!

>> Yeah? I've got a job to do in Windsor sometime friday...
>> Wanna meet me at Pick'n'Pull friday morning?
>> I could get in a bit of shopping before work, I think P'n'P opens at 8:30AM.
>> Maybe Don G. would meet us there too... You listenin Don?

Pat says:

>Count me in. I'll be in a white/blue baby bronco - tires are too scary
>on the
>F-250!

And Don sounds ready:

>Pick'n'Pull, Pick'n'Pull, Pick'n'Pull, Pick'n'Pull, :-P~~~

Excellent! Is 8:30 friday morning good with You guys?

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 01:20:59 -0500
From: "James Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re: 410?

Jon E. Purut writes:

Marko, did you say you got your 410 from a Murcury Marauder? I found one
in the junkyard saturday and was not sure exactly. The engine did not
have anything on it giving its size. It had a two barrel carb and tall
valve covers with Mercury stamped on them. Did all Marauders have 410's?


For what it is worth, when I was muuuuuch younger, my parent's had a 1963
Marauder. It had a 390. The Marauder was an upgrade of the Montclair.

Jim Elliott



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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 06:20:39 -0400
From: "Ken Schneider"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE's & Gas Milage

Any clues on my gas milage? I have a stock rebuilt 360, 2bbl, C6, and 3.25
gears in the rear of my F-100. I'm getting 9 miles to the gallon if I'm
easy on her. I usually go about 15 miles each way between work, between
55-70. It seems I recall someone mensioning a distrubutor out of a
different FE would be better? What about Pertronix electronic conversion?

Ken

68 F100 360, C6

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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 04:54:51 PDT
From: "David Thornton"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 63 F-100 Front Wheel Cylinders

Thanks James for your reply. I guess I forgot to mention that I
have an F-100. Does your F-350 have only one single-ended cylinder per
wheel? I assumed that that single-ended cylinders would be used one per
shoe. I thought it odd that mine would push only the front shoe. My
rear cylinders are the standard double-ended style (7/8 diameter). But
the front had only a single-ended (1 1/16 diameter) cylinder which push
only the front shoe.
In any case since I didn't get any other replies right away I did a
little investigation and experimentation on my own. The 60-62 wheel
cylinders referred to in my earlier post (double-ended, by the way) fit
the mount just fine, but the outlet for the brake hose was angled very
close (too close?) to the kingpin top. (They may fit, but I don't think
so. I didn't get a chance to actually bolt them on the truck.) What I
did instead was to buy a set of 1 1/16 cylinders and have a friend
rework the hose inlet connection to get the proper angle. I now have
double-ended wheel cylinders front and rear. They seem to fit and work
great. If anyone is interested in the details write back and I will
supply them.
I'm still curious however to find out if the front cylinders for my
'63 F-100 were originally single-ended and if so,why? It seems to me
that the front wheels do most of the braking. If this is the case I
would think double-ended cylinders on the front would increase braking
power. If Ford wanted to save money why not put the single-ended
cylinders on the rear? Also what change was made after SN# 260,001 that
required a change in front wheel cylinders for a short period of time?
Any brake experts or Ford historians out there with the answers?

Thanks,

Dave T.



Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 21:18:54 -0500
From: "JAMES MERLO"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 63 Front Drum Brake Wheel Cylinders

The cylinders for my 62 f350 are "single ended" and this is correct
according to the for manual. I feel sorry for your bad luck on finding
replacement wheel cylinders. I was fortunate and just able to go to
NAPA

- ----------
> From: David Thornton
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 63 Front Drum Brake Wheel Cylinders
> Date: Friday, July 10, 1998 6:17 AM
>
> In rebuilding my brakes I find that I cannot find a source for
the
> front wheel cylinders. There was apparently a change in late '63 and
> cylinders for models made after SN# 260,001 are not available, at
least
> according to the Ford dealer, Raybestoes, and Wagner, etc. The weird
> thing is that the front cylinders listed for 60-62 are listed again
as
> '65 parts. Nothing seems to be listed for late 63-64.
> Has anyone been through this and knows what the change is
between
> early and late? Will the 60-62 cylinders work? If not why?
> One more thing, I'd rebuild my old cylinders but I think they
have
> already been replaced with the wrong ones. The cylinders on the
fronr
> of my truck now are Bendix SINGLE ENDED cylinders. This can't be
right,
> can it?
> Thanks in advance for any replies.
>
> Dave T.
>
>

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 07:26:30 -0500
From: "Nils Gore"
Subject: Re:FTE 61-79 - 63 Front Drum Brake Wheel Cylinders

I just bought wheel cylinders for all 4 drum brake wheels on my 64. It has
double ended cylinders. The rears I got locally, the fronts were listed at
the local parts place as "unavailable."

However, I was able to order them from John's F-Fun Hundreds in Anaheim,
CA. Haven't seem them yet, but I'm assuming they're right. (I don't have
their phone number in front of me right now; it's in my truck. They have a
small web-site. Search for "John's F-Fun".)

BTW, they have the *best* catalog for old truck parts I have seen yet: It
has excellent exploded diagrams with everything labelled, and in general,
their prices beat others I looked at. They focus on 57-66 F100s.

I hope they're a good company. Has anyone had any negative experience with
them?



***************************************************************
>The cylinders for my 62 f350 are "single ended" and this is correct
>according to the for manual. I feel sorry for your bad luck on finding
>replacement wheel cylinders. I was fortunate and just able to go to NAPA
>
>- ----------
>> From: David Thornton
>> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 63 Front Drum Brake Wheel Cylinders
>> Date: Friday, July 10, 1998 6:17 AM
>>
>> In rebuilding my brakes I find that I cannot find a source for the
>> front wheel cylinders. There was apparently a change in late '63 and
>> cylinders for models made after SN# 260,001 are not available, at least
>> according to the Ford dealer, Raybestoes, and Wagner, etc. The weird
>> thing is that the front cylinders listed for 60-62 are listed again as


Nils Gore

'73 F100, 302
"64 F100, (to be determined...)
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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 08:20:30 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 4bbl intake

Michael white writes: >>Will a 4 barrel intake from a 352 (blown engine
from 67 F100 4x4?) fit the 360 in my 69 F250.

Yes!
Any FE intake you are likely to find in the Boneyard will fit. There are
a couple of exceptions, but you aren't likely to run across any Tunnel Rams
or Cammer intakes in the average boneyard or find laying around in the
corner of the local FIXIT shop.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 08:58:41 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering box

Pat Brown writes: >>In my wanderings at pick-n-pull today, I spotted the
carcase of a '70 F-100/FE/2WD, with power steering. Pump, cooler, FoMoCo
integral steering box, pulleys, and column all intact. Any chance these
would work in my F-250? (Also 1970, FE-360, 2WD)

Can"t be sure on the pre '73's, but on the '73-'79's the power steering
boxes on F-100 thru F-350's 2 wheel drives are listed as the same P/N
AutoZone.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 06:31:58 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE's & Gas Milage

>Any clues on my gas milage? I have a stock rebuilt 360, 2bbl, C6, and 3.25
>gears in the rear of my F-100. I'm getting 9 miles to the gallon if I'm
>easy on her. I usually go about 15 miles each way between work, between
>55-70. It seems I recall someone mensioning a distrubutor out of a
>different FE would be better? What about Pertronix electronic conversion?
>
>Ken
>
>68 F100 360, C6

The stock duraspark distributor from a '75-'76 FE will drop right in.
I bought a rebuilt one at the parts store for about $40 and got the
spark box, coil, and wiring harness at the wrecking yard. Don't forget
to grab a cap adapter, big cap, rotor, and good set of 8mm plug wires while
You are at the bone yard. Except for the distributor itself, everything
can come off a 302, they're way more plentiful than duraspark equipped FE.
I got all mine off a 1980 econoline van with 302.

A good small 4-bbl carb will probably get You a little better mileage
than the stock 2-bbl...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 09:37:52 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: NEW WHEELS FOR $50-60 BUCKS

Thanks Marko, Azie, etc.
for confirming what a big, dumb as* I am. I never gave the tire shops a
thought for new wheels. Would you believe I started my first job at one
and we always had this catalog under the counter for anyone that needed new
wheels ? ? ?
I guess I got carried away with all the hype by the boneyard *sales*
personnel that they are hard to come by, rare, everyone wants them
bull****.
I think asking the list next time is the way to go. (Isn't that what its
for anyway ? ? ? ?)
Thanks again
(anyone interested in a set of used wheels that need
sandblasting ? ? ?)
Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW Rusty Rims
1970 F100 (ret)



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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 10:10:46 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE's & Gas Milage

At 06:20 AM 7/16/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Any clues on my gas milage? I have a stock rebuilt 360, 2bbl, C6, and 3.25
>gears in the rear of my F-100. I'm getting 9 miles to the gallon if I'm
>easy on her. I usually go about 15 miles each way between work, between
>55-70. It seems I recall someone mensioning a distrubutor out of a
>different FE would be better? What about Pertronix electronic conversion?
>
>Ken
>
>68 F100 360, C6
>

The gain from the distributor is minimal, if even noticable
in the gas tank. I switch over to electronic and it did
smooth the idle just slight and the acceleration was a little
better, but not much, at higher speeds. It didn't do a thing
for milage. 8-10 mpg is on target for your combination.



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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:16:38 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Diesel

Stoney writes: >> I've been offered a swap for an '84 F-250 with a
Banks Turbo Diesel. Is anybody familiar with this engine? I've never
trusted auto sized diesels, so I know nothing about them.

I have no personal experience with the diesel trucks, but I have a lot of
experience with diesel farm tractors.

Generally speaking the diesels have much more lugging torque than its gas
counterpart, and its longevity is approx three times the gas. I understand
the gas in trucks will out run the diesels, and have slightly better
passing speed, but get terribly worse economy than the diesels.

Turbo's are very expensive, but I have never had to replace one on my farm
tractors. The key to turbo life is cool oil. Never-never shut one down
immediately after hard pulling. Let it idle for 3 minutes or so to get the
oil and the turbo cooled down, so it doesn't fry the oil in the bearings in
the turbo.

Hope this helps you.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:59:43 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE's & Gas Milage

> From: "Ken Schneider"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE's & Gas Milage
> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 06:20:39 -0400

> Any clues on my gas milage? I have a stock rebuilt 360, 2bbl, C6,
> and 3.25 gears in the rear of my F-100. I'm getting 9 miles to the
> gallon if I'm easy on her. I usually go about 15 miles each way
> between work, between 55-70. It seems I recall someone mensioning a
> distrubutor out of a different FE would be better? What about
> Pertronix electronic conversion?

If you put in a wide ratio gear set and go to 3.00 or even 2.75 gears
in the rear with stock 235 size tires you may gain a little and may
be surprised at the performance as well.

3.25 is pretty good and with standard c-6 is about right. All you
can do with this is tune it up and get everything working well on the
engine. 10 mpg is about typical for this setup as someone else
mentioned.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:04:55 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 F & 70 R Sources

> From: "JAMES MERLO"
> To:
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 F & 70 R Sources
> Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 21:33:45 -0500
> Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

> I am in the process of hunting down the parts to put a 460/NP435
> into my 62 f350. What did you do about motor mounts? custom
> fabricate? Did you add a crossmember? What about exhaust
> manifolds/what did you use? Did you keep the original beam front
> axle and steering box.

If it's 2wd you need L&L or advance adapters mounts, right side truck
exhaust manifold and probably larger radiator.

If 4wd you also need oil pan for 4x4 or van. Axles and other
peripherals won't be affected much except posibly for the steering
box/engine clearance.

Depending on your current engine you may need to upgrade front
springs.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 13:06:42 EDT
From: bobherring juno.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79-list-digest Burned Valves

am14 chrysler.com writes:

>You can still purchase the adjustable rockers and push rods for the
solid
>lifter versions if you can get a parts guru that knows what to look up.
>Try getting them for a 1963 thru 1967 427, if you are interested in
this.
>They are also 1.6:1 ratio rather than the 1.5:1 of the stamped non
>adjustable ones. If my memory serves me correctly I gave about $2.50 ea
for
>the rockers and $1.50 or so for the pushrods on the last one I converted
>about 10 years ago.
>Azie
Do you know of a rocker arm interchange for the 400? I overhauled a
77 400 out of a pickup to put in my 72. I have had all kinds of trouble
getting it timed. It back fires like a valve is open. It tests fine on a
compression test and the timing chain has been checked 3 times.
It has the original distributor.
Bobby

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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 13:35:58 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Frame width

This evening ( or some evening convenient) would you measure the Outside To
Outside dimensions of your '79 frame at the front just above the front
spring mount. Also measure the outside to outside dimension of the spring
mounting bracket at the rear and the front. It is approx 8" long on my
'77. Write them down and forward to me your convenience.

Dad


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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 10:32:07 -0700
From: "Douglas W. Hack"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Adding Belly tank to Supercab

My '78 F150 Supercab shortbed with 351M got all of 8MPG. With the stock
21 gallon rear tank I saw the gas station entirely too frequently. I am
doing a lot of work to it transferring the 400 and complete
drivetrain/etc. from a wrecked F250 to it. I keep looking at the belly
tank on the F250 ('78 regular cab long bed) and wanting to put it under
the Supercab. It seems the Supercab has a different crossmember that
gets in the way, but it still looks like it might be possible. Has
anyone done this one? If this tank won't work, what will?
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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 14:29:39 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79-list-digest Burned Valves

> From: bobherring juno.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79-list-digest Burned Valves
> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 13:06:42 EDT

> Do you know of a rocker arm interchange for the 400? I overhauled a
> 77 400 out of a pickup to put in my 72. I have had all kinds of
> trouble getting it timed. It back fires like a valve is open. It
> tests fine on a compression test and the timing chain has been
> checked 3 times. It has the original distributor. Bobby

If the cam is timed correctly and the valves are fresh and you have
them properly adjusted and the push rods are correct for this engine
then I suspect you have a wire out of place in the ignition firning
order. The firing order is embossed on the side of one of the
runners in the intake manifold or can be looked up in any number of
manuals but to be safe look on the intake and check your wires.
Remember the distributor runs counter clockwise on a ford V-8 and
number one wire should be at about 11:00 up to about 01:00 as you
look down at the dizzy. You can put it anywere you like it just
comes from the factory in that location. From there you count to
your left, counter clockwise.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:27:42 -0700
From: John_Waldeck idx.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - oil pressure gauge

To: 61-79-list

I have a '77 straight 6 manual transmission...the oil pressure gauge does
not work...I know where
the sending unit is but I'd like so see if it really is dead before I
replace it. I don't seem to be able to locate
any fuse for this guy...all of them look fine, in fact.....This truck has
some electrical problems
ie no juice getting to horn....so I don't trust the gauge, etc. So does
anyone know how to test the sending unit ?
thanks !


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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:43:11 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP 205 Rebuild/FE Oil Pan

At 10:03 PM 15/07/98 EDT, you wrote:
>Hey Marko,

>I'm trying to visualize the thrust washers you mentioned, I'll check them out
>this weekend...I'll let you know when the kit gets here, and there isn't any
>rush to get the thing together....
>
>you are doing now when I put this pan on the 428. I was thinking about just
>brazing it on, but now knowing that these FE pans seem to be about impossible
>to find, I might just go with the silicone and bolt with lock nuts....
>
>What did you end up doing?
>
>Colorado Jeff
>
Jeff:

The only problem with the braze is the potential for pinholes in the braze,
rust, etc. No offense, you understand! Welding is even worse, the pans
are none too thick and if a mosquito bites you and you get distracted
there's one nice burn thru yer pan....

I am threading the inside plate (fine), then using silicone and gaskets and
bolts, with Loctite. Then I am putting locknuts on the inside, with
Loctite again, just for insurance.

marko

On the t/c; they're real easy to put together; make sure you don't tighten
the caps for the detent ball springs too tight, or you will snap them. And
you can't buy them apparently, you have to machine out a bolt. So be careful.

When you go to put the idler shaft together, you will have to re-shim it.
There is a way of doing this without an expensive dial indicator apparatus
if you don't have one.

Once you get to the stage of rebuilding, let me know and I'll help you as
much as I can.


marko ;^]

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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:57:55 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Diesel

>Stoney writes: >> I've been offered a swap for an '84 F-250 with a
>Banks Turbo Diesel. Is anybody familiar with this engine? I've never
>trusted auto sized diesels, so I know nothing about them.
>
I think Banks just makes the turbo, and somebody else makes the Diesel. I
think this may be the Ford V-8 diesel from that era, an adapted gas engine
maybe?

The true diesels, (usually 6 cyls too) like the Cummins and the Powerstroke
are the ones I'd go for. Anything that looks more like it belonged in a
mustang than a Backhoe should run on gas, not diesel. Part of the reason
for this (and the reason sixes are such good diesels) is that the six can
easily have 3 separate heads (most cumminses do) and even the lowly
Chrysler slant 6 has SEVEN mains. V8's only have 5. So you have much
stronger top and bottom ends, to handle the 22:1 or so compression made by
a diesel. V8's just aren't a good diesel design. A straight 8 would be
better.

>Turbo's are very expensive, but I have never had to replace one on my farm
>tractors. The key to turbo life is cool oil. Never-never shut one down
>immediately after hard pulling. Let it idle for 3 minutes or so to get the
>oil and the turbo cooled down, so it doesn't fry the oil in the bearings in
>the turbo.

Azie is absolutely right here. When I worked excavating, we would always
let the trucks idle down for about 5 minutes in the yard, before shutting
them down at the end of the day.

>
>Hope this helps you.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.

marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca



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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 13:58:10 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP 205 Rebuild/FE Oil Pan

>>you are doing now when I put this pan on the 428. I was thinking about just
>>brazing it on, but now knowing that these FE pans seem to be about impossible
>>to find, I might just go with the silicone and bolt with lock nuts....
>>
>>What did you end up doing?
>>
>>Colorado Jeff

>The only problem with the braze is the potential for pinholes in the braze,
>rust, etc. No offense, you understand! Welding is even worse, the pans
>are none too thick and if a mosquito bites you and you get distracted
>there's one nice burn thru yer pan....

>marko

Sigh... can't resist this one...
A competant welding shop should be able to TIG weld or TIG braze an
oil pan or any other thin sheet metal object so it's liquid-tight
with no problem. I can do it and I don't consider myself to be a
particularly good welder... competant, yes... expert, not even!

The pan needs to be completely clean of all rust, paint, and oil on *both*
sides before You start.
The big catch with doing thin sheet metal is that when You weld it, it
gets red-hot all the way thru. The BACK side of the weld will absorb
oxygen from the atmosphere and make the metal brittle and likely to crack
or become porous.
The cure is simple, You need to direct shielding gas (typically Argon)
to the back side of the part being welded also to keep air away from it.
Gas/oil tight welds on thin metal isn't a problem if You find a shop that
has a decent TIG welder and knows how to use it.
It can be done with MIG also if You are pretty good and take the time to
shield the back side of the weld.
Decades ago I took an Airco welding class, and the instructer sliced an
aluminum Pepsi can in half and TIG welded it back together. It was completely
water tight when he was done! I was thoroughly impressed!
You can do some real fine delicate work with TIG if You know how...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 17:41:22 -0500
From: "FXDWG"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power window's

I have a 79 F-250 Supercab that I would like to put power window's into. I
junked out a 80 bronco and it had power window's and power lock's. Will this
fit? Are the guts the same between years? And are the switchs the same? If
not can it be made to work with out hacking everything up? I would like it
to look as close to stock as possible. Also what about the wiring harness is
it the same?
Thank's

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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 17:43:54 -0500
From: "FXDWG"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - power window's

I have a 79 F-250 Supercab that I would like to put power window's into. I
junked out a 80 bronco and it had power window's and power lock's. Will this
fit? Are the guts the same between years? And are the switchs the same? If
not can it be made to work with out hacking everything up? I would like it
to look as close to stock as possible. Also what about the wiring harness is
it the same?
Thank's


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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 15:27:31 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE vultures descend on Windsor Pick'n'Pull!

steve and don wrote:

[grunting and chanting deleted]

> Excellent! Is 8:30 friday morning good with You guys?
>

See you there . . .

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California \\ 84 and dropping at 3:30 pdt ///

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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 15:19:09 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE's & Gas Milage

Ken Schneider wrote:
>
> Any clues on my gas milage? I have a stock rebuilt 360, 2bbl, C6, and 3.25
> gears in the rear of my F-100. I'm getting 9 miles to the gallon if I'm
> easy on her. I usually go about 15 miles each way between work, between
> 55-70. It seems I recall someone mensioning a distrubutor out of a
> different FE would be better? What about Pertronix electronic conversion?

Let's compare. I have an F-250, crew cab (5000 lbs), 360, 2 bbl, T-18,
3.73. I have no p/s (maybe next week:-), no a/c, and I drive 15 miles
each way to work. The first mile and the last mile is hilly. About half
my drive is country (no lights / stop signs), the other half congested
city stop/go.

My overall mileage for the last year or so is 12.5, with a few tanks at
14, which drops to 10 when heavilly loaded (~3000 lb boat, 2/3 people,
60-65 mph). I suppose the bigest difference is the tranny, but your
gears should help out at 55-70. Do you drive lots of hills? Use A/C?

That said, As I recall my 68 F-100/C6/2bbl/PS/AC got about ten mpg.
Want to nitpick? Read on . . .

Carb checks: Make sure your choke is opening fully. I ended up with
an electric choke conversion (JC Whitney), which has worked perfectly
for about ten years now. Check for leakage the around accelerator pump,
and don't forget to check the power valve (on bottom, sometimes called
'economizer valve') for leaks. Of course, check idle speed, mixture
and make sure air filter is clean. Make sure your hot air snorkle
is working correctly. The snorkles were kicked around here a few months
back, it seemed the general consensus was 'Hot Air is good for drive-
ability and mileage, Cold air is good for power and Chevron'. Of course,
there were a few in disagreement :-)

Distributor: Before (if) you change it, put a dwell meter on. Is the
dwell time stable at idle, or does it fluctuate? Unstable dwell or
timing indicates a worn-out distributor. Get a rebuilt one, and change
to dura-spark system if you want (see FTE web page for details). Dura-
spark will help starting and idle, but don't expect any mileage
miracles.
Your posting did not indicate where you live, do you have a 'dual
diaghram' distributor? This distributor (smog equipment) includes the
normal vacuum advance along with a vacuum RETARD section. Check your
timing with both sections disabled, if the timing is bouncing around
a lot or won't settle then your distributor is worn out. Speed the
engine up befre re-connecting vacuum, you should get 10-15 degrees
centrifugal by 2500 rpm. Connect the vacuum advance, check again at
2500 rpm to ensure an additional 10 degrees (anyone have real specs
here?:-). If present, the retard should be hooked to manifold vacuum,
maybe through a temp valve. It should be active during idle and
decaleration only, I would never recommend disabling smog stuff ;-).

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California You know, I have to type it: YMMV


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