61-79-list-digest Wednesday, July 15 1998 Volume 02 : Number 373



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Muffler time!
FTE 61-79 - 2 to 4 barrel conversion
FTE 61-79 - Re: R-134 vs R-12
FTE 61-79 - F-250 Power steering Retrofit
FTE 61-79 - Re: I'm Back! Got brakes too :-)
FTE 61-79 - Re: Summary '70 F-250, Tires & Wheels
Re: FTE 61-79 - Muffler time!
Re: FTE 61-79 - 2 to 4 barrel conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Summary '70 F-250, Tires & Wheels
FTE 61-79 - speedometer drive gear
FTE 61-79 - Dipstick/Housing Spreader
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: I'm Back! Got brakes too :-)
FTE 61-79 - Clutch linkage
Re: FTE 61-79 - Diff. gears
FTE 61-79 - Wheel Cost
FTE 61-79 - Summary: '73 F250 Clutch Linkage question
FTE 61-79 - Banks Turbo Diesel
Re: FTE 61-79 - Muffler time!
Re: FTE 61-79 - F-250 Power steering Retrofit
FTE 61-79 - Re: 1973 camper special clutch linkage
RE: FTE 61-79 - Banks Turbo Diesel
Re: FTE 61-79 - F-250 Power steering Retrofit
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: I'm Back! Got brakes too :-)
FTE 61-79 - Got My Column Back!!
FTE 61-79 - 87ish '79 F-150
Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Cost
Re: FTE 61-79 - P-n-P Parts, was Re: I'm Back!
Re: FTE 61-79 - P-n-P Parts, was Re: I'm Back!
FTE 61-79 - NP 205 Rebuild/FE Oil Pan
FTE 61-79 - Dana 44 Gears/Dana 60 Gears
RE: FTE 61-79 - Ford clutch options/T-18
Re: FTE 61-79 - 63 Front Drum Brake Wheel Cylinders

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 01:21:11 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Muffler time!

As long as the noise doesn't bother you leave it alone till you get the Cash
for the Header setup you want. The hole isn't really gonna hurt anything,
although it could land you a fix-it ticket.
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Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 23:55:00 -0600
From: "Michael White"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 2 to 4 barrel conversion

Will a 4 barrel intake from a 352 (blown engine from 67 F100 4x4?) fit
the 360 in my 69 F250 (with dual exhaust)? I would really like to put a 4
barrel Holley 1850 (trick.... of coarse) in place of the old stock 2100 Ford
2 barrel. The nice thing about Holley carbs is the modular design which
allows you to do things like replacing the secondary metering plate with a
metering block and jets (adjustable secodary), or replacing the standard
side inlet float bowl with a dual center feed setup (more stable in a fast
turn). So what do you think about the idea of removing the stock 2 barrel
intake off of a 69 F250, and putting a 4 barrel (from 352?) in it's place?
The tag on the 4 barrel intake reads as follows......

352 66 6 (fomoco)
5 k 289 s

Could someone please interpret this tag? Does this tag mean it's a 352
produced in June of 66 which produces 289 hp at 5,000 rpm? (sounds logical
to me)

Thanks,
Michael

69 F250 360 auto
69 F250 390 T18 Posi 3.54 (allready has 64 Tbird intake and Holley 1850)


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Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 22:41:25 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: R-134 vs R-12

Don Jones wrote:
>
> I was speaking to my refrigeration contractor today. He tells me there
> is a new refrigerant gas that is a "drop in" replacement for R-12.
> "drop in" meaning that it is compatible with the mineral based oil in
> most r-12 systems.

It's been around a while, developed by George Goble(?), do a search on
GHG-12, you'll probably come up with something. It's opponents don't
like the fact that it is a mixture of propane and butane, they're
worried about 3 lbs of explosive fuel inside a car (gee, I guess they
wouldn't like my 18 gallon in-cab gas tank, either). The proponents
state that the only reason it was banned (from auto use) was due to
the fact that DuPont couldn't make any money from it.

> Don Jones
> 70 f250 4x4 (tall and ugly)
> 85 f150 supercab (long and ugly)

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

'70 F-250 Crew Cab - Four doors, short bed, Loooong and ugly, but Cool!
'87 Baby Bronco II
'94 T-Bird
'83 280Z (What's with my daughter, anyway?)


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Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 23:33:04 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - F-250 Power steering Retrofit

In my wanderings at pick-n-pull today, I spotted the carcase of
a '70 F-100/FE/2WD, with power steering. Pump, cooler, FoMoCo
integral steering box, pulleys, and column all intact. Any chance
these would work in my F-250? (Also 1970, FE-360, 2WD)

TIA,
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California


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Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 23:48:57 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: I'm Back! Got brakes too :-)

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
[He's back from vacation]

Welcome back, Gary. I figured you were away when you didn't jump
in to 'help' Keith with his brake problem a few days back. Good
to hear you can (well, kind of) stop the Bronco again :-).

Meanwhile, I'm still ON vacation, sticking around the house this week.
My son is home recovering from surgery, as a too-confident 15 year-old
he made one too many jumps on his snowboard last year, resulting in a
broken hip. Last week we had the rods & screws removed, he's doing
great. I wonder if Steve could make some sort of nice tool out of all
these wierd stainless parts?

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 23:20:52 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Summary '70 F-250, Tires & Wheels

I started with:
['70 F-250 Needs tires, want to dump my split rims. What to do?]

Marko replied:

> Do yourself a favor and lose those tires and split rims before they get you.

Exactly what I had in mind . . .

> You can do what I did and never ever ever worry again. Rockwell makes
> wheels for Ford trucks in a 16" by 6 or 6.5. These are steel, painted
> silver with REALLY GOOD paint, and are probably the strongest rims you can
> get. Much stronger than white spoke rims, and let's not talk about
> aluminum. They are also CHEAP and brand new. Never have to worry again.

I tried searching around for these today, got a bazillion hits. Anyone
know where
I can find out about these? My tire guy is pushing white spokes on me,
he says rated
for 3000 lbs. I haven't seen it in writing yet. Went to the local
'Pick-up' store,
he didn't sell wheels, but had some nice bug deflectors :-(

> As for tires, you shud also buy new, that way you never have to worry.

Yup. I was just looking for rims at the wreckers. . .

> If you are not wanting to spend money, go to wreckers etc and look for
> anything of a later-model 250.

Spotted a flat-bed F-250 at Home Depot today (Honey-do list). Guy
probably
thought I'd lost it staring at his (bone-stock, steel) wheels:-)

Michael added:

) Yes, those split rims are no fun at all (remove and discard). I
have a
) set of "Accuride" rims (stamped on the inside of rim) on my 69 F250
(from a
) 92 Ford F250 4x4) with Goodyear Wrangler HT 235/85 R16 load range E,
and
) the old hubcaps fit nicely. These rims also have the large hole to fit
the
) full floating rear axle. You could probably find a set of 5 wheels
similar
) to this in your local scrapyard for a good price.

I hit the local pick & pull today, pretty slim pickin's (As Steve
reported
earlier). I found a few, but they where welded in pairs to make car
stands.
I'll try a few more places tomorrow.

Jerry R jumped in now with:

} Hey Pat -
}
} There is another option here. I just happen to have a set of
16.5 x 7.5
} wheels (non-split rim) that will soon be available from my 69 F-350
Dually,
} 151" WB, OEM 8-bolt standard Ford issue, etc., etc.

Where would you (and your rims) be located? Can they be used on a SRW
(non-dually)
truck? Are 16.5" tires common? Does the pope . . . (ohhh, nevermind)

} You could probably twist my arm for the tires too !

Ummmmmmmmmm, no thanks :-).


Now, in a related thread about F-150 wheels, lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M
Radecki)
writes:

> >Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 16:17:57 +0000
> >From: "Jay Fleming"
> >Subject: FTE 61-79 - wheel, tailgate help
> >
> >I have a couple of questions regarding my '72 f-100. First, what
> >year's wheels will fit this model. Someone near here has a set of
> >'97 16" wheels with the 5-bolt pattern for sale cheap. Will these
> >fit?
> >
> No, they won't fit. '97-up F150s have a metric bolt circle (!?!)
> and will not interchange with older trucks.

Did the new F-250's (Light and/or super duty) have a new metric pattern
also?
I was thinking about calling around the local dealers to see if they had
any
take-offs / upgrades.

Thanks again,
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California


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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 00:18:13 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Muffler time!

At 09:57 PM 14/07/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Well, I was crawling around under the old pickup today and noticed
>a rather ugly sight: there is a pretty hefty hole in the rear portion of
>my muffler. I figure that I now have three options. 1) Pull a muffler
>out of the junkyard and bolt it on

no, way more trouble than it's worth.

2) Get a low flow muffler out of a >catalogue (summit??)

maybe, but you haveta pay for shipping etc

or 3) Trash the stock setup, bolt on headers, and
>make it a dual exhaust setup. Unfortuneately, option 3 isn't liable to
>happen any time soon;

okay, then don't. May as well wait till you can afford something decent.

I'm a poor college student. I would personally
>like to replace the stock muffler with something else, but I'm a little
>lost on where to go. I want it to sound good.

Buy a thrush muffler or walker turbo or something along that line. Cheap
like borscht (probly about 20-30 bucks) and sound decent too, esp for the
low $. You can get one to measure up to your old muffler's dimensions
(input/output positioning, pipe diameter, outside dimensions).

I do have a few questions
>about this though. My biggest question is whether or not I can use the
>factory muffler clamps to just clamp the new muffler on to the existing
>pipes.

As long as you can get the factory one off without wrecking the pipes, sure.


Good luck!

marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 00:21:08 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2 to 4 barrel conversion

At 11:55 PM 14/07/98 -0600, you wrote:
> Will a 4 barrel intake from a 352 (blown engine from 67 F100 4x4?) fit
>the 360 in my 69 F250 (with dual exhaust)?

Yes.

I would really like to put a 4
>barrel Holley 1850 (trick.... of coarse) in place of the old stock 2100 Ford
>2 barrel. So what do you think about the idea of removing the stock 2 barrel
>intake off of a 69 F250, and putting a 4 barrel (from 352?) in it's place?

Piece of cake. Make sure you do pushups for at least a month before
attempting. These things are heavy!

BTW have you seen the posts on throwing away the cork gasket part from
front and rear of the intake, and just using silicone? DO IT. The cork is
too high and leaks! For further instructions on this just ask.

>The tag on the 4 barrel intake reads as follows......
>
>352 66 6 (fomoco)
>5 k 289 s
>

wouldn't have a clue.


marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca


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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 00:23:57 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Summary '70 F-250, Tires & Wheels

At 11:20 PM 14/07/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I started with:
>['70 F-250 Needs tires, want to dump my split rims. What to do?]
>
>Marko replied:
>
>> Do yourself a favor and lose those tires and split rims before they get
you.
>
Pat! I will phone OK Tire here and find out where the heck they came from.
Then I will tell you.

Give me a day or 2, it's midnight and I'm still at the office.


marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

PS stock steel rims are WAY stronger than spokers, according to the old
dude who did my tires. And he seemed the type to know.



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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 00:44:10 -0700
From: "Douglas W. Hack"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - speedometer drive gear

>
> While we are the basic thread/vein does anyone know how to determine which
> speedometer gear is needed in various applications? I have a 66 F100 w/ a
> 300-I6 mated to a T18 driving a 9inch rear end (gear ratio unknown) with
> 31X10.50R15's all around and my speedo is giving me a reading of 45+/-2
> 2000rpm.

If you knew your rear end ratio you could attempt to calculate this but
there is a more accurate and easier way: I had to change the gear on my
brother-in-law's V-8 Vega. The transmission, rear-end and tires had all
been changed from stock. You don't need to know the sizes or numbers of
anything but the speedometer driven gear to do this. First you go out
to a section of highway or freeway with good readable mileage markers
along it. Drive along until you see a mileage marker you like and have
someone write that down along with your odometer reading, then drive
about ten miles until you see another mileage marker you like and write
those two numbers down. Using a calculator determine the indicated
mileage and the actual mileage. Divide the indicated mileage by the
actual mileage. This number is how much the speedometer gear ratio must
be increased or decreased in order to correct it. This method
automatically figures in variables such as tire pressure and
temperature.

For example: you drive 10.4 miles between road markers but your
odometer indicates 11.6. The correction ratio is 1.115... Just round
it to 1.12 -- plenty close enough. Now remove the speedometer cable and
driven gear from the transmission and count the number of teeth on it.
If there are (for example) 18 teeth 18x1.12 = 20.0769... teeth. Round
it to 20 teeth. Buy the gear closest to the rounded off result (if you
can), install it, be happy. Sometimes if the error is really large you
have to change both gears. Hope that is not the case. Keep in mind
that we are talking about the driven gear. By increasing the number of
teeth on the driven gear (the diameter doesn't change), we reduce the
odometer reading. If we change the driving gear, we have to reduce the
number of teeth on the driving gear to reduce the odometer reading. If
your error is between 1.025 and .975 (less than 3 tenths error in ten
miles) don't change the gear, you are about as close as you are going to
get.

indicated new gear
_________ = ___________ Error ratio x old gear = new
gear
actual old gear


Just simple algebra -- They always told me it was good for something...

If you get your odometer right, then your speedometer should be right
also. Test this by trying to hold a constant 60 miles per hour over a
measured distance and see if it works out to 60 seconds per mile. If
not, you could try to adjust the little whirling magnet on the back of
the speedometer - or you could just remember a fudge factor for when you
notice a highway patrolman. Try cleaning and lubricating the cable
first. I use liquid graphite lock lubricant for this.
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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 01:46:23 -0700
From: "J.Scott Harkema"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dipstick/Housing Spreader

Re:Extra dipstick hole,I tapped mine {3/8 NC I think}and put
a hexhead set screw in it.I also had the leaky plate where the
dipstick goes into the pan problem.I driled out the rivets
removed the gasket and welded the plate on to the pan.
Re:Housing Spreader.I had to use a Come A Long on my carrier
to get it out.If the pry bars don't work you might want to try this.
Also beware, when it does come out it's heavy, slick and has sharp
edges.
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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 07:33:04 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: I'm Back! Got brakes too :-)

> Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 23:48:57 -0700
> From: Pat Brown
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: I'm Back! Got brakes too :-)

> Meanwhile, I'm still ON vacation, sticking around the house this
> week. My son is home recovering from surgery, as a too-confident 15
> year-old he made one too many jumps on his snowboard last year,
> resulting in a broken hip.

They don't make snow boards to fit my son but he likes to fall off of
silos (50') and break things. Couple of weeks ago he wrecked his
truck and banged his knees again. Seems like once you damage
something it becomes the target of every accident........BTW, he was
lucky, only broke on knee cap and tore the tendons off the other one
and scraped his belly on the silo rungs (got gangreen from it). He
was laid up about a year too. Glad to hear your son's doing well :-)

Gosh darn kids any way :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 08:24:27 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Clutch linkage

Jay Grover writes: >>My problem is that it looks like part of the clutch
linkage is missing, but I don't know exactly what it is or what it looks
like. I have what appears to be an long adjuster bolt (with a nut for a
stop) dangling off of the clutch pedal linkage near the throw out bearing
lever. The throw out bearing lever has an indentation in it (apparently to
receive the end of the part I'm missing?). I'm unsure of 1) what part I'm
missing 2) where to get this part 3) how this part fits into the throwout
bearing lever without falling out

Was there a Spring??? The rod dangling is held into the clutch release
lever by a long spring that retains tension on the rod to lever so it
doesn't fall out. A picture here is worth a thousand words, so if you have
access to anyone with a truck that has a manual transmission, and doesn't
have a hydraulic clutch, it should be similar in design so see if you can
crawl under and take a look.
I think D*dge & Generous Motors uses the same basic design.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 08:38:45 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Diff. gears

> From: "Jim Cron"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Diff. gears
> Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 21:21:22 -0700

> I am looking for 4:09 (my tag says 4:09 but I hear them called 4:10
> or 4:11) gearset for Dana 44 front end, noticed Marko mentioned he
> was looking to replace his with smaller numbers.

Danas use the 4.09 and ford 9" can use either 4.10 or 4.11 AFAIK :-)

> BTW, you can get the gears out without a case spreader. Two pry
> bars, four hands, and a lot of care will do it. It's not a pretty
> sight.

The trick is to keep it absolutely parallel with the case as you pull
on it. The bearings are not a press fit but a zero clearance fit and
have some width so if you cock it even a little it will bind like a
brake drum. If you get the right balance it will come out easily but
that's nearly impossible to do which is why the spreader is used
professionally. I found patience and very small corrections helpfull
:-) Pounding or reefing on it won't get it done without damaging
something. A gentle tug with a pry bar in the right place, back and
forth from side to side will get it done with patience. Getting it
back in can be a real test of this very rare quality (patience) :-)



78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 08:52:44 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Cost

Jerry writes: >>My monitor must be acting up because it showed your price
you paid for your new wheels to be $ 55.00 each.
I just paid that for USED ones in a boneyard ! ! ! !

I bought two (2) of the factory style wheels for dual wheel F-350's
(commonly refered to as Dayton wheels, I believe) for $50.00 each at Minor
tire and wheel in Decatur, Al. 2 years ago. The salvage places were asking
$50.00 for used ones and I couldn't see paying the same for used as new.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 08:52:07 -0400
From: Jay Grover
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Summary: '73 F250 Clutch Linkage question

Thanks Guys (particularly Gary, Michael White, and Azie)!
I now know that the part I'm missing is the threaded hex rod.
The tension spring is still in place. I just couldn't figure out how
that threaded bolt was going to make it to all the way into the throw
out bearing lever!
Now if I can just convince a few pals to come over for my
Barbeque/Clutch Changing party I'll be all set...

Jay

- --
"but, this one goes to eleven..."
Jay Grover
jgrover mbvlab.wpafb.af.mil
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glasscity.net/users/jcg
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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 08:54:38 -0400
From: "Melayne Arnold"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Banks Turbo Diesel

I know this is a little off subject,but this is the list I read and I trust
the opinions here. Anyway, I've been offered a swap for an '84 F-250 with a
Banks Turbo Diesel. Is anybody familiar with this engine? I've never trusted
auto sized diesels, so I know nothing about them. Those who know me know I
run a lot of 429/460's in trucks for highway towing. How does this engine
compare to the 460 for power, dependability, etc? Thanks for any info
anybody has.

Stoney

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 08:26:43 -0500
From: Jim Henjum
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Muffler time!

Marko Maryniak wrote:

> At 09:57 PM 14/07/98 -0700, you wrote:
> >

> 2) Get a low flow muffler out of a >catalogue (summit??)
>
> maybe, but you haveta pay for shipping etc
>

For most, yes, but Summit has free shipping. I just ordered a new Edelbrock 600
cfm carb for my 460 there yesterday.

Ross Henjum


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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 07:29:14 +0000
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - F-250 Power steering Retrofit

Pat Brown wrote:

> In my wanderings at pick-n-pull today, I spotted the carcase of
> a '70 F-100/FE/2WD, with power steering. Pump, cooler, FoMoCo
> integral steering box, pulleys, and column all intact. Any chance
> these would work in my F-250? (Also 1970, FE-360, 2WD)
>
> TIA,
> Pat Brown
> Sebastopol, California

Mostly yep. Not sure about the steering box. I would grab everything
else and check out the mounting of the two steering boxes. If all the
bolts are in the same location and the linkage is the same go for it.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 07:55:30 -0700
From: tom
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1973 camper special clutch linkage

The part you want is kind of like a piece of all thread with a ring on one end (the linkage end) and a pointed
hex "long nut" with a locking nut on the all thread part.
This is all held in by the spring tension of the clutch. It is also the adjuster. A quick check of junkyards
should turn one up.
At least that is how my FE360 / NP435 is set up.
Tom
Reno, NV

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 11:22:13 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Banks Turbo Diesel

i can't know how the banksed truck runs, but for comparison my buddies have
a mid 80's dodge cummins, and a late 80'1-early 90's ford deisel dually.
(i'm pretty bad knowing the newer years)

anyway, i have a 94 dodge v10. all of them are 4x4 and the deisel dodge
pulls the heaviest trailer. i used to be able to outpull them both, on the
hills or top end. now i am not sure, as the cummins has had the fuel pump
turned up and runs better than any deisel i ever been in. (though the new
cummins did impress me)

on the hills the ford used to fall back and on the flats the ford could
pull away from the cummins. we run sometimes over 80 mph towing. both
deisels got better mileage than me though.

i know banks has a good reputation. but if it has a banks on it it musta
been run hard. that's ok, as long as a good maintainance schedule was
used.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Melayne Arnold[SMTP:arnoldm bbtel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 1998 8:54 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Banks Turbo Diesel

I know this is a little off subject,but this is the list I read and I trust
the opinions here. Anyway, I've been offered a swap for an '84 F-250 with a
Banks Turbo Diesel. Is anybody familiar with this engine? I've never
trusted
auto sized diesels, so I know nothing about them. Those who know me know I
run a lot of 429/460's in trucks for highway towing. How does this engine
compare to the 460 for power, dependability, etc? Thanks for any info
anybody has.

Stoney

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 10:11:51 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - F-250 Power steering Retrofit

>In my wanderings at pick-n-pull today, I spotted the carcase of
>a '70 F-100/FE/2WD, with power steering. Pump, cooler, FoMoCo
>integral steering box, pulleys, and column all intact. Any chance
>these would work in my F-250? (Also 1970, FE-360, 2WD)

Not if I get there first they won't... (-:

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 10:11:53 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: I'm Back! Got brakes too :-)

>Meanwhile, I'm still ON vacation, sticking around the house this week.
>My son is home recovering from surgery, as a too-confident 15 year-old
>he made one too many jumps on his snowboard last year, resulting in a
>broken hip. Last week we had the rods & screws removed, he's doing
>great. I wonder if Steve could make some sort of nice tool out of all
>these wierd stainless parts?
>
>Pat Brown
>Sebastopol, California

Unnnhh, grunt, grunt... Steve likes stainless!
My current project is an all stainless BBQ made out of an old beer keg.
THAT otta take a while to rust out!

Wish I'd known You were going to P'n'P, I might have met You there.
I still need to go and get all the disk brake stuff to convert my '71.
There was a set there last week, but I didn't have my kingpin press with me...


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 13:59:00 -0400
From: "Hammell, John"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Got My Column Back!!

Well, I am finnally getting my g# %$#am steering column back from
MR.Column!!! You bet!!! It took much longer than expected( sent it
6/12/98) and as I write this I am waiting for UPS delivery! Yup!! It
also cost more that I expected(given estimate of anywhere between
$100-300) ended up being $332.69, which did include 3 day return UPS
service. I also have some bad news for those of you with the same circa
columns as I got, 67-69, there are few if any parts left to rebuild
them!! Of course Mr.Column told me BEFORE I sent it that he had all the
parts necessary to do the rebuild, but of course when it came time to
put MY Money where HIS mouth was he had to fabricate the shift tube and
also some bolt, which I probably have sitting on the floor of the cab!!
Anyway, I plan to install that puppy tonight, and was wondering if there
is any areas that will need any type of greese or spray before it all
goes back together, like in the clamp on the rag joint or inside the
shaft of the column. I guess what I'm asking is if there is anything
special I have to look for when putting it back in or will I pretty much
be able to bolt it all together, reconnect the turn signal harness
and.............GO!!!???
Any suggestions or input would be much appreciated!!!!!!!!

John Hammell
67 F250 Camper Special
83 F150 (sitting all alone in work parking lot, can't afford to register
and insure her too!!)
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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 13:28:58 PDT
From: "Chad Pasma"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 87ish '79 F-150

I just picked up an '87 F-150 fully loaded last week for free.
I had to remove radio, battery, and trailer hitch before the weekend
and it was mine. It has a rough frame (beside resonator/y-pipe) so
if this truck cannot be put on the road for a winter truck to keep
the '79 pretty I was thinking maybe of exchanging some parts
like engine (EFI 302) and possibly interior. The dash would prolly
need heavy modification due to windshield curvature. This
would let me add AC and cruise etc... (87 is loaded) Would the
AC/heater assembly change over? Can I add the second fuel
tank from the 87 into the 79? How about the rear swaybar?
Any comments or advice would be appreciated.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 13:35:24 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Wheel Cost

At 08:52 AM 15/07/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Jerry writes: >>My monitor must be acting up because it showed your price
>you paid for your new wheels to be $ 55.00 each.
> I just paid that for USED ones in a boneyard ! ! ! !
>
>I bought two (2) of the factory style wheels for dual wheel F-350's
>(commonly refered to as Dayton wheels, I believe) for $50.00 each at Minor
>tire and wheel in Decatur, Al. 2 years ago. The salvage places were asking
>$50.00 for used ones and I couldn't see paying the same for used as new.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>
Azie, thanks for your support on this one. By the way, I called OK Tire
here in Vancouver today, and the wheels are still about 50-60 bucks each,
he says. Rockwell 16 by 6. Now, if only I could find out who sells those
$400 Cammers.....


marko ;-]

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 14:28:05 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - P-n-P Parts, was Re: I'm Back!

steve wrote:
> >In my wanderings at pick-n-pull today, I spotted the carcase of
> >a '70 F-100/FE/2WD, with power steering. Pump, cooler, FoMoCo
> >integral steering box, pulleys, and column all intact. Any chance
> >these would work in my F-250? (Also 1970, FE-360, 2WD)
>
> Not if I get there first they won't... (-:

I'll wait for 'ya to finish pulling them, then . . . WACK! It's
kind of hot out there to be workin' hard pulling suspension crap!

> [Red Tail Ale BBQ tale deleted]

> Wish I'd known You were going to P'n'P, I might have met You there.
> I still need to go and get all the disk brake stuff to convert my '71.
> There was a set there last week, but I didn't have my kingpin press with me...

Still there, sprayed with blue paint? Did you mark them, or is there
some other significance? If you didn't mark them with blue paint, I
don't think I want to hear about it . . .

If I go back, it'll be Friday AM. It's my daughter's turn tomorrow,
wisdom teeth extraction! Busy week for my insurance co (:-o).

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 16:07:06 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - P-n-P Parts, was Re: I'm Back!

>>>a '70 F-100/FE/2WD, with power steering. Pump, cooler, FoMoCo
>>>integral steering box, pulleys, and column all intact. Any chance
>>>these would work in my F-250? (Also 1970, FE-360, 2WD)

>> Not if I get there first they won't... (-:

>I'll wait for 'ya to finish pulling them, then . . . WACK! It's
>kind of hot out there to be workin' hard pulling suspension crap!

Yeah, they're safe from me for a while. It's over 105 degrees here
today )-: I won't be goin to no wreckin yards this afternoon...

>> I still need to go and get all the disk brake stuff to convert my '71.
>> There was a set there last week, but I didn't have my kingpin press with
me...

>Still there, sprayed with blue paint? Did you mark them, or is there
>some other significance? If you didn't mark them with blue paint, I
>don't think I want to hear about it . . .

I've got no idea what the blue spray paint means. I see all kinds of stuff
spayed with it, including the ground at corners of the rows...

>If I go back, it'll be Friday AM.

Yeah? I've got a job to do in Windsor sometime friday...
Wanna meet me at Pick'n'Pull friday morning?
I could get in a bit of shopping before work, I think P'n'P opens at 8:30AM.
Maybe Don G. would meet us there too... You listenin Don?


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 22:03:56 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - NP 205 Rebuild/FE Oil Pan

Hey Marko,

Thanks for the offer on the NP 205 instructions..but the hero of the day,Tony
Marino, just came through for me with a scanned set.....

As for the rebuild, the forks actually look good, not much wear at all. Also,
the snap rings came off only with quite a bit of profanity and three blisters
from the snap ring pliers slipping off and pinching my hands....

I'm trying to visualize the thrust washers you mentioned, I'll check them out
this weekend...I'll let you know when the kit gets here, and there isn't any
rush to get the thing together....

By the way, I had the same problem with a BRAND NEW oil pan for my 390.
Except, I discovered it on I-80 between California and Colorado. My buddy was
following me in his truck, and noticed a fine mist of oil on his
windshield....that lame little oil pan plate was leaking. Since I was on the
road and had to fix it, we bought a tube of "Liquid Steel" and smeared it all
around the edge of the plate. Of course, Mickey Mouse was proud of me for this
one...anyway, its still doing the job after two years, but I'll be doing what
you are doing now when I put this pan on the 428. I was thinking about just
brazing it on, but now knowing that these FE pans seem to be about impossible
to find, I might just go with the silicone and bolt with lock nuts....

What did you end up doing?

Colorado Jeff




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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 22:03:48 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dana 44 Gears/Dana 60 Gears

Marko and Jim,

I think I have a couple of sets Dana 44 gears, I'll check the ratios this
weekend and let you know.

Also, regarding getting the gears out, I don't have a case spreader (even
though thats what the Dana manual says to use). I just used a couple of
crowbars, one on each side of the differential and gently nudged it
out.....or, my more experienced neighbor just uses one crowbar on the head of
one of the ring gear bolts, and he slips it out real easy every time....I
imagine there are "more better" ways, but this seemed to work well for me...

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 22:16:20 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Ford clutch options/T-18

Forwarded for: "Jerry"
> Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 15:41:58 -0700
> From: "Gillespie, John D."
> Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Ford clutch options/T-18

> While we are the basic thread/vein does anyone know how to determine
wh*ch
> speedometer gear is needed in various applications? I have a 66 F100 w/
a
> 300-I6 mated to a T18 driving a 9inch rear end (gear ratio unknown) with
> 31X10.50R15's all around and my speedo is giving me a reading of 45+/-2
> 2000rpm.
>
> John Gillespie

Hey John -
Since I couldn't find the same info you are looking for, I approached the
problem a different way.
Did you know that FMC in their infinite wisdom, made all the speedo gears
for all applications (at least thru the early 90's) identical except for
three (3) things ?
1. # of teeth, 2. orientation of teeth, and 3. length.

Assuming you can either cruise a freeway and pull up along side someone and
check their speedometer (Town cars are great for this at nite ! ) or have
someone drive with you at a steady speed...... this means you can check
your speed with your present gear...see how far you are off......go buy a
new gear with the same angle on the teeth and add or subtract a tooth for
each 3-4 MPH you want to change. If the parts guy gives you a gear with a
long end on it, either try it (it should work OK) or trim it down to your
length.
One or two gears later you should have a fairly accurate speedometer.
Jerry

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Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 21:18:54 -0500
From: "JAMES MERLO"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 63 Front Drum Brake Wheel Cylinders

The cylinders for my 62 f350 are "single ended" and this is correct....


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