61-79-list-digest Friday, July 3 1998 Volume 02 : Number 363



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Able Truck Wrecking
FTE 61-79 - temp gauges
FTE 61-79 - A shoulder to cry on
FTE 61-79 - AC bracket feedback
FTE 61-79 - Thermostats and Heat Transfer
FTE 61-79 - overheating
FTE 61-79 - Kickdown
RE: FTE 61-79 - A shoulder to cry on
FTE 61-79 - Re: twisted tranny id
RE: FTE 61-79 - Trannys and Xfercases
Re: FTE 61-79 - A shoulder to cry on
Re: FTE 61-79 - Axle play
FTE 61-79 - re: 66 Custom Cab
FTE 61-79 - you're FIRED!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Bypassing Heater Core for Summer
Re: FTE 61-79 - Bypassing Heater Core for Summer
Re: FTE 61-79 - A shoulder to cry on
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Question on Dealer Installed A/C
FTE 61-79 - NP203 to NP-205 swap
FTE 61-79 - Re: Axle Wrap
FTE 61-79 - Re: Rant Thread
Re: FTE 61-79 - A shoulder to cry on
Re: FTE 61-79 - Thermostats and Heat Transfer
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: twisted tranny id
Re: FTE 61-79 - Axle play

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Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 09:42:34 -0700
From: Carey & Norm
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Able Truck Wrecking

Someone mentioned this place in a post yesterday, in Hayward, CA. I
live in Walnut Creek, and 411 didn't have a listing. Do you have a
number? I am interested in those '66 door panels if they still have
them. Thanks

Norm
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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 12:12:38 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - temp gauges

Dennis, you are absolutely correct about the accuracy of our gauges, all of
them. I thought that my truck was hot so I put my air conditioner probe
thermometer against the intake manifold by one of the heads. My engine was
not hot; my gauges were misleading me. Remember that chopper regulator that
we have been discussing? I sometimes have great oil pressure, sometimes
fearfully low. Gauges again.


- -John

jmlagron tenet.edu
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left side
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI AOD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (When speed counts, count on Macintosh)
1979 MC under restoration (my son is rebellious, but he loves old cars!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 12:15:09 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - A shoulder to cry on

Dear FTE list members,

Disaster struck Thursday around noon. I always called my truck "Henry"
after Henry Ford. Henry was parked at the curb in front of my house this
morning. At 11:50 CDT, he was severely molested by a 1995 Honda Passport
that one of my idiot neighbors didn't set the parking brake on. It rolled
for about 150 feet before it hit Henry. The left front fender, driver's
door and the cab behind the door are demolished. I can no longer open the
driver's door. Luckily the door glass was up and is unbroken. All of the
damage is below the hood, so it is OK. Amazingly, the chrome trim all
survived. I won't be able to tell the full extent of the destruction inside
the door until I talk with the insurance adjuster next week, nor can I
begin to fully look for hidden damage. I think my left front tire may be
ruined. I hope that there is no front linkage or suspension damage.

Less than a year ago I finished 18 months of intensive restoration on Henry
including new paint and new interior. He went from fading flaky silver to
snazzy white with red guts. People would stare in parking lots. My
sister-in-law thought that I had bought a new truck. He only has 70,400
miles on his bashed-in body.

The policeman that took the report was very sympathetic to me. My neighbor
received a citation. He has insurance, BUT I'VE BEEN DOWN THIS ROAD BEFORE:
the insurance man is going to tell me that Henry is an old truck and isn't
worth anything to anyone but me. I fear that they will total him for less
than what I can fix him for. So, fellow FTE members, say a prayer or have a
kind thought for Henry and I. I know it's only a truck, but I feel like
part of me has died.

Sign me,
In mourning

P.S. I drove Henry this morning. I think the running gear is OK, but I sure
do have a wind noise when I go down the road. What years will swap these
body parts? I'm going bone picking for sure.


- -John

jmlagron tenet.edu
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left side
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI AOD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (When speed counts, count on Macintosh)
1979 MC under restoration (my son is rebellious, but he loves old cars!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 12:15:25 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AC bracket feedback

Thanks for all of the feedback on my AC bracket. The new brace that I made
has done wonders for my compressor vibration. So far the bolts all stay
screwed in the holes where they belong.

This list is even greater than sliced bread.

See my other posts for my new problems.


- -John

jmlagron tenet.edu
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left side
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI AOD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (When speed counts, count on Macintosh)
1979 MC under restoration (my son is rebellious, but he loves old cars!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 12:15:34 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Thermostats and Heat Transfer

Ok, here we go. I made a statement about a 160 degree thermostat allowing
"more room" for heat build up than a 195 degree thermostat. This post is an
attempt at clarification of what I meant.

1. Those of you who insist on a 195 thermostat are correct. If your cooling
system is working the way it should, then 195 will work very well. Yousould
only get a slight increase in temperature as conditions change, then the
cooling system should stabilize at its operating temperature. 195 degree
thermostats were intriduced in the 1968 model year. Not coincidentally,
that was the same year of the first pollution control devices. Pollution
control is the only reason thermostat temperatures were increased.

2. Most of us don't have cooling systems at their best. We have dirty
radiators, both inside and outside. We have add-on air conditioners or air
conditioners with dirty condensors. We have non-original fans, missing
shrouds, the wrong v-belt, worn water pumps, etc. You get the picture.

3. If the water circulating cooling system was the only place where heat
transfer occurred, then you could control it absolutely, but it isn't. The
water circulation system only aids in cooling. The system transfers the
heat from the engine that it absorbs to the atmosphere. Some heat transfers
directly from the engine to the atmosphere. Remember Sleddog's concrete
blocks?; the Volkswagen Beetle?; your friendly lawn mower? All heat from an
automobile (including trucks) transfers to the atmosphere. As the
temperature of the atmosphere increases, the transfer of heat from the
engine requires more cubic units of atmosphere to accept the same amount of
heat. (See item 4.) Your cooling system is no more or less efficient during
any season, the atmosphere will accept more heat more quickly the colder it
is.

4. A calorie is the amount of heat required to raise one gram of water one
degree Celsius at zero degrees Celsius. As heat is applied to a substance,
its molecules move faster. If they move fast enough, the substance changes
states, in our case from liquid water to steam gas. It takes less heat to
raise a gram of water one degree as the temperature of the water approaches
the boiling point than it did near the freezing point. In other words, the
nearer you are to boiling to begin with, the less heat it takes to get
there, both per degree and in total. Thus my reasoning for running a 160
degree thermostat instead of 195. There are more degrees from boiling when
the water begins to circulate and transfer heat.

5. Your thermostat does not determine the temperature at which your engine
operates. The thermostat (derived from Latin for constant temperature) only
determines at what temperature water circulation will begin or end.
Generally, any production cooling system is designed to maintain an
operating temperature determined to produce the desired exhaust emission
level through the range of legal speeds at the time of manufacture and at a
given range of ambient air temperatures that includes neither extreme cold
or extreme heat. Don, I think you said that your truck gets hotter at 75
mph? The system was probably peaked for around 60 mph and probably 70 or 75
degrees Farenheit. All assembly line car companies are really interested in
only one thing: PROFIT. Somewhere there are performance graphs for cooling
systems. I never seen them because few laymen like us are interested in
them. They would be similar to the graphs that plot ambient air temperature
versus head pressures on an R-12 air conditionong system. These I have seen
in various shop manuals.

6. There is really no such thing as cooling. When you cool your engine, you
are really heating the atmosphere. This is either one of the laws of
thermodynamics or a direct result of one, but I don't remember which.
Engineering school was too many years ago. Also, heat, or any other energy,
never dissipates in a work equation, it just relocates. Energy in must
equal energy out. If it doesn't, then you have not accounted for something.
Look up Perpetual Motion sometime. There is no such thing as a renewable
energy source. Once energy has done its work, you must get more energy. The
used energy has moved to a lower state and can not be raised to higher
state. You can only expend more energy. Even if you take into account
nuclear physics, energy and mass must equal each other in any equation
involving work (work as defined in physics). All systems in the universe as
we understand it are expending energy and running down.

7. I'll stick to 50/50 distilled water and ethylene glycol year round.
Etylene glycol doesn't wear out. It gets dirty if contaminants are allowed
into the system. It gets dilluted if you have a leak. It picks up corrosion
due to the reaction of metals with water and the chemicals in tap water.
The more water you run in your cooling mix, the more susceptible your
system is to oxidation (rust with iron based compounds, those white bumps
on aliminum). Chemically, ethylene glycol doesn't change or break down.
That's why you aren't supposed to dump it so that it could contaminate
ground water.

8. I probably haven't changed anyone's mind, but I hope that I have
clarified and justified my position as well as provided some information
for consideration. Any practicing engineers may feel free to correct me if
I have posted any scientific facts that have changed since I was in
undergraduate school. I'm sorry I can't remember the name of the graphs.
Nomogram or nomograph comes to mind, but I'm not positive. I'll have to
hunt my old Thermodynamics book.


- -John

jmlagron tenet.edu
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left side
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI AOD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (When speed counts, count on Macintosh)
1979 MC under restoration (my son is rebellious, but he loves old cars!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 12:15:30 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - overheating

As you can see from the other posts, there is some disagreement about the
50/50 mix on the antifreeze. Regardless of who is actually "correct" on
this thread, if everything else is OK, 50/50 mix will work more than
sufficiently. If you forget to change back during the winter, you will
awaken your engine to a nice squeal when started. Upon raising the hood,
you will find the belts running, but the water pump not turning. Then when
you open the radiator, you will see icee or slushee instead of fluid. Been
there, done that. Stick with 50/50 year round.

Listen to your water pump bearing. Take a broom handle or similar tool and
place it against the top of the water pump where ever you can safely do so
while the engine is running at idle. BE CAREFUL. You should hear a soft
even hum. If it sounds like grinding marbles, replace your pump as it will
soon be leaking anyway. (This works good on alternators, PS pumps and air
conditioner pumps, too.) If yo have to replace it, get a new, lifetime
warranty pump and paint it before you install it. While you have the pump
off, examine your water jacket for crud or build up and determine if
something else needs to be done.

If your pump bearing is OK, examine your v-belt. Not only does it need to
be the correct length for the run, it needs to fit in the groove properly.
Too wide and it will slip, too narrow and it will slip. Look at the pulley.
The shiny part that shows where the belt is touching should be the same
width as the tapered part of the belt. Old and cracked and it will slip
then eventually break. If it's too loose it will slip when it warms up. If
it's too tight you will ruin your pump bearing in short order. Proper
tension will give about 1/2 inch deflection in the center of the longest
run.

Hope this helps.


- -John

jmlagron tenet.edu
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left side
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI AOD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (When speed counts, count on Macintosh)
1979 MC under restoration (my son is rebellious, but he loves old cars!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 12:19:05 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Kickdown

>No time for laughs. Looking for experience on the subject. Did you need the
>kickdown adapter?

Both of the ones I've been involved with were Che*vys, one with a stick, and
the other so trashed that all he wanted to do was get it running(that one
defied all logic) so I can't advise you.

Just felt like having a good rant....probably from working on Ch*vies....
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net

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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 13:47:30 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - A shoulder to cry on

i hope you have records of the cost of the restoration, it should help if you need to fight for it to be fixed properly.

sleddog

- ----------
From: John LaGrone[SMTP:jmlagron tenet.edu]
Sent: Friday, July 03, 1998 1:15 PM
To: Ford Trucks 61-79
Subject: FTE 61-79 - A shoulder to cry on

Dear FTE list members,

Less than a year ago I finished 18 months of intensive restoration on Henry
including new paint and new interior. He went from fading flaky silver to
snazzy white with red guts. People would stare in parking lots. My
sister-in-law thought that I had bought a new truck. He only has 70,400
miles on his bashed-in body.

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Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 10:58:44 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: twisted tranny id

At 07:24 PM 02/07/98 PDT, you wrote:
>hi..
>
>i just bought a '70 f-250 4X4 360CI. It has had the original 3 speed
>trans swapped for a 4 spd. How can i Identify the type of tranny? also
>it has 4.11 gears (if i read the id plate right) how can i tell what
>type of axles it has?.

If your reverse is UP, you have a Warner T-18 four speed.

If your reverse is DOWN, you have a New Process 435 four speed. The NP 435
is heavier.

You will have a Dana 60 rearend and a Dana 44 front end, most likely. Your
rearend has 8-bolt wheels, right? and the hub itself is bolted to the axle
with 8 bolts, right? That'd be a Dana 60 probly. If you clean up the back
of the case (around the edge of the cover), on the bottom right of the gear
housing will be cast a "60".

The front axle is probly a 44. You can see which type of 44 by, again,
cleaning the housing around the cover, you'll find the id nos.


marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 10:52:37 -0700
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Trannys and Xfercases

At 08:39 AM 7/2/98 , Gillespie, John D. wrote:
>Did not catch were Doug was located at, but following with Azie's thought
>of an aux. tranny. There is a company here in the San Diego area called
>Gear Venders that specializes in over/under drives and the nice part is
>their web page: www.gearvendors.com even
>gives you prices with various setups.

They make a nice unit, but as I recall, they're all over $2k without installation.

You might also try Boyce Equipment at 800-748-4269

Surplus stuff, sometimes they have two-speed rear axles.



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Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 14:15:42 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - A shoulder to cry on

At 12:15 PM 7/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>The policeman that took the report was very sympathetic to me. My neighbor
>received a citation. He has insurance, BUT I'VE BEEN DOWN THIS ROAD BEFORE:
>the insurance man is going to tell me that Henry is an old truck and isn't
>worth anything to anyone but me. I fear that they will total him for less
>than what I can fix him for. So, fellow FTE members, say a prayer or have a
>kind thought for Henry and I. I know it's only a truck, but I feel like
>part of me has died.
>
>Sign me,
>In mourning
>
>P.S. I drove Henry this morning. I think the running gear is OK, but I sure
>do have a wind noise when I go down the road. What years will swap these
>body parts? I'm going bone picking for sure.
>
>
>-John
>

John,

Do **NOT** let his insurance company push you over. Send them
photos, before and after (if you have them), plus ALL receipts,
even for motor oil. Last November a lady in a BMW cut me off
and caused damage to my 67 which is a "in progress" restoration.
They tried to total it at $700 and insisted they wouldn't pay
another dime more. I sent them 62 pages of photo copies of
receipts, some pages with 3-4 receipts. I had over $4000 of my
work, parts and the work of others documented. I let them know
that I had proof that the truck was undergoing restoration and
that I would take them to small claims if they didn't settle
fairly. Considering the evidence I had plus how much it would
cost them to defend it they settled for the full repair price.

As to the parts swap, you're pretty lucky, most 73-79 parts
are interchangable.

Ken


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Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 14:32:18 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Axle play

Steve

Just to put in my .02 on this topic-- I have a '70 F-100 4x4 and it has
the 1/8 inch of rear axle end-play also. I've had that thing apart and
can't figure out for the life of me where it comes from. I've been
watching this thread closely, but hey you ain't the only one!

> Thanks John. I found a better exploded drawing of mine today, but still
> don't have an end play spec. I really suspect it's less than 1/8"...
> The bearings are pressed all the way to the shoulder on the axle and the
> lock ring is up snug against the bearing. Neither the housing or the
> retainer plate *appears* to show any wear. Certainly no wear that would
> give that much clearance. I'm rather baffled...
>
> If You find the spec wold You send it please?
>
>
>>> Is this normal?
>
>>NOT
>
> Yeah, that's kinda what I think. But I can't see anything screwed up.
> Maybe the bearings are wrong? Too narrow? Wrong retainer plates maybe?

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Date: Fri, 03 Jul 98 14:49:41 EST
From: HALE neesnet.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re: 66 Custom Cab

TRS2000: Thanks for the info. Keep us posted on the PS/PB
conversion; I'd like to do that myself. Greg Hale

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Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 12:03:03 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: FTE 61-79 - you're FIRED!

I'm almost ready for a good rant myself, after hearing all about the
edelbroke stuff. Let me tell you my story:

Six months ago I hired a guy who said he would do the resto on my truck,
let's call him Neil cause that's his real name. He's about 33 and has a
shop set up where he has been restoring some cars. A friend of mine hired
him to redo his V*lv* P1800 and it turned out real nice. He was also
working on a 65 mercury van (Dave's van).

So I hired the guy, and he explained to me what he would do, and how, and
when.

I thought I was in good hands.

- ----------------------------

In the meantime, I have been doing mechanical work with a guy named Randy
(who looks remarkably like Ozzy Ozzbourne but is no relation) on my
undercarriage and engine. Randy's been restoring cars for 22 years. He
does everything right. When he fixes something it stays fixed. Randy's
last project was a $48,000 resto on a Boss 429 mustang. Randy can also do
phenomenal paint and body.

- -----------------------------

It just so happened that Dave brought his van out to Randy's to do some
front end work. I then saw what kind of work Neil did: missed prep
mistakes everywhere, sanding marks all over the place, primer runs,
finger-waves from finish sanding, dips, you name it. He masked the
headlight openings too big, and so there's an ugly patch of primer between
the headlight bezel and where the paint starts. Bad seam sealing. He
forgot to sand the door hinges.

Neil was also supposed to do some reconstruction of the rear wheel well,
and weld metal where the windows used to be. He patched the window
openings all right. The metal was so rough, though, that he musta filled
it with 1/2" of Bondo. if you knock your knuckles on the metal on the
inside of the door, it sounds like you're knocking on an oak door or
something.

He didn't even prime the metal on the inside of the former window openings.
Yes, so there are two big squares (about 15"square) of BARE METAL on the
inside of the doors.

All his welds on the inside of the body are porous and are beginning to
rust. Some of them, he didn't even bother to grind.

Back on the outside, there are several areas where the primer is showing
thru the paint. The paint itself was champagne metallic and it looks like
it was sponge-painted, it's so mottled. There is lots of dirt in it too.

- -----------------------------------------

The only reason I had not hired Randy in the first place was that he was
still working full time in a restoration shop.

I got a chance to see a 65 mustang that Randy had restored for himself. It
was absolutely phenomenal. Not a wave, not a ripple, nothing! New 1/4
panels welded in and you couldn't tell where. Rock-gard coating where it
belonged. Amazing detailing.

- ------------------------------------------

I found out that Neil never painted the Volvo. He had somebody else do it
and took the credit. And never told me.

So finally, last Wednesday (Canada day, no less!) I spent the whole day
extracting my job from Neils and transporting it to Randy's.

My truck is now in the best of hands now, and I am happy not to have to
worry.
Just p*sses me off knowing that some twerp tried to pull a fast one on me.


Never let this happen to you. Always carefully investigate what work
people have done in the past. Supervise the work at every stage. Ask
questions of others, including the list, if you're not sure.

And most of all, don't be afraid to fire somebody. My only regret is I
didn't do it sooner. Never let inertia get the better of you. And never
think that just because the other guy is covered in bondo dust that he
knows better than you.


You'll all be happy to know I am setting up a web page and will post some
pix pretty soon.



marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 16:54:09 -0500
From: "Nils Gore"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bypassing Heater Core for Summer

There you go! I wish I'd thought of that.

I had decided to plug up the inlets as sleddog suggested, but this goes one
better and gets me out of the seasonal hookup/takeapart hassle.

Can't imagine a downside to that solution.

Thanks y'all.

>Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 10:00:10 -0400
>From: Chip Rosan
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bypassing Heater Core for Summer
>
>Why not install a 3/4" ball valve to cut off flow to the inlet side of
>the heater core? Seems I had a similar setup (factory) on a '70 F100
>that was controlled by the heater control.
>
>That would allow for cutting the flow to the core off in summer, turning
>it back on when the weather gets cool (cold in Mississippi??). Also
>would allow for auxiliary cooling if needed to overcome an overheating
>problem.
>


Nils Gore
nils sarc.msstate.edu
601 325-2207 voice MSU S/ARC
601 325-8872 fax MSU S/ARC
601 494-0038 voice Criss Gore Architects
601 494-0058 fax Criss Gore Architects

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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 18:19:07 -0400
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bypassing Heater Core for Summer

> >From: Chip Rosan
> >Why not install a 3/4" ball valve to cut off flow to the inlet side of
> >the heater core?

This is a great idea and don't anyone out there think it's cheesy,
Rolls-Royce did exactly the same thing for many years, marking the valve
"summer and winter". Simplicity is so nice :)

John Miller, FoMoCoNUT Gibralter.net
96 F-350 Reg Cab XLT, 4x4, 460 w/ A4OD, My Baby "Baloo"
75 F-100 Reg Cab Ranger, 2wd, 360, C6, Daily Driver "Lucy"
and "always" looking ! ! !
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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 15:16:24 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - A shoulder to cry on

From: John LaGrone
>The policeman that took the report was very sympathetic to me. My
neighbor
>received a citation. He has insurance, BUT I'VE BEEN DOWN THIS ROAD
BEFORE:
>the insurance man is going to tell me that Henry is an old truck and
isn't
>worth anything to anyone but me. I fear that they will total him for
less
>than what I can fix him for. So, fellow FTE members, say a prayer or
have a
>kind thought for Henry and I. I know it's only a truck, but I feel like
>part of me has died.

First off I'm sorry to hear about Henry. All is not lost. If you
want your truck fixed then that's what will happen and either your
neighbor or his insurance will pay for it. Your neighbor is responsible
for your loss, not his insurance company. If you can't get satisfaction
from his insurance company then you go after him.
You can bet the farm they will total your truck and offer an amount
of money you couldn't buy a Vaga that has a blown engine with. Don't
blink an eye and don't try an talk sense to them, Their egos make me
look humble. Just don't accept their offer. Tell them and your neighbor
you will have it fixed and if they refuse to pay you'll take them to
court. Even if you don't have the ammo Ken had with his (if you do, all
the better) you will still win. Bring Henry to a Body & Paint shop that
will do the repairs and get a statement of the condition of the truck
and an estimate for repairs. They are expert witnesses in a court of law
so it's all the ammo you need to win. They stand to make money on the
repairs so it's in their benefit to help you. Find a reputable shop.
Trying to cheat can bite you in the ass in court.
Insurance companies don't like being taken to court so I don't see
it going that far. But they can let it go until your standing on the
steps of the court house. Stand firm in your right to have your property
repaired and find comfort in knowing the darkest, hottest pit in hell is
reserved for insurance agents. :)
Later!


Deacon
deconblu gte.net http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
==============================================
Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm
==============================================



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 17:49:34 -0500
From: Jim McCarty
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Question on Dealer Installed A/C

Jamey Moss wrote:
>
> John Strauss wrote:
>
> > Joe & Jen DeLaurentis wrote:
> >>
> >> Anybody have any info on 67-72 Dealer installed A/C????i just pulled
> >> a factory A/C system and a Dealer installed one too.. I like
> >> the dealer installed one it lets you keep your original glove box...
> >> And fits around the blower motor and original heater core..anybody
> >> out there with one like this????I would like to hear from you..
> >
> > I have an ARA unit in my '68 F250. What do you want to know? If yours has
> > a "Ford" blue oval on it and goes all the way across the dash you might try
> > to talk to Jamey Moss, he just pulled one out of a '72 Ranger XLT.
>
> Joe,
>
> I don't know how much help I can give you because mine hadn't worked for 5
> years before I pulled it -- it had a major leak somewhere but I never found
> it. It worked for 20 years before that in the West Texas heat, so it should
> keep you nice and cool when you get it working. I don't know how to fix it or
> install it, all I know is how to pull it out, but it looks like you already
> know how to do that ;-). Where do you live? I have the entire underdash
> unit (with all the knobs and vents) that you can have for free if you want it
> for spare parts. I live in Austin, Texas, but I imagine that shipping
> something that large might be cost prohibitive.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Jamey Moss ra4001 email.sps.mot.com
> 67 F100
> == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

Whoa!! Wait a minute!!! I live in Cedar Park with a dead dealer
installed AC in a '73 F100. If no one else wants it, I'll come get it.

Jim McCarty
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 16:33:32 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: FTE 61-79 - NP203 to NP-205 swap

Hello:

I got a question for the mid 70's 4x4 guys. I have a spare NP205 I'm
trying to sell and a gentleman called me with a 76 390/C6 NP203 setup.
He wants to swap out the 203 and put in the NP205. Is there a kit made
that facilitates this swap.

Thanks
John

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67 GT500
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 17:45:45 -0600
From: mark heims
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Axle Wrap

Ryan, I had alot of axle wrap on my truck with 2" blocks, I tried double
shocks but didn't notice much improvement. I pulled the blocks and went
with an add-a-leaf, much better now. I think you would be better off
with new leaf springs if you want to keep the same amount of lift, the
adde-a-leaf will give you 2-2 1/2".

On another note, my trucks on the cover of the Autokrafters catalog, the
orange and black 78, I want to thank Ken for passing on the info, and
thank Ron Miller for using it.

Mark 78 F150 4x4 "The Great Pumpkin"

> I have a 72' Bronco with a 3 3/4" lift. every time I pop the clutch
> or just floor it in reverse the rear axle wraps. I was wondering what
> could be done to cure this problem. I've been told to get rid of the
> lift blocks and just get a bigger leaf pack. I've also been told to
> have double shocks installed. I'd like to know if that would help or
> if anyone has a better suggestion.
>
>
> I'd also like to know all of the vehicles that the 351C came in.
>
> Thanks
> Ryan
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 18:47:22 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Rant Thread

> FWIW the edelbrock 1406 I put on my FE390 was pretty close to correct right
> out of the box. It ran pretty good, but as always there was room for
> improvement. I ended up jetting it a little richer on the top end, and some
> leaner on light cruise than stock. I bought the jetting kit at the same
> time I bought the carb, because I wasn't foolish enough to believe it was
> going to be jetted perfectly from the factory. Never met an aftermarket
> carb that was.

Your point is well taken. I am spoiled by picking up junkyard carbs (
especially 2100's and AFB's) and putting a kit in and running them for 5
years. I don't like very many aftermarket offerings in anything because most
are inferior to the products they replace. I am speaking of street carbs
only, and I've not really practiced the nth degree of tuning for this stuff.
(lazy I guess) If it tickles the seat of the pants, and doesn't foul or burn
plugs I leave it alone. An important distinction is that racing carbs are
entirely different animals, and I have worried the screw slots off of a few.

I, for my satisfaction will stay with my '81 Quadrajet that I got for free,
only needed a kit and spread-bore adapter (and air-door tweaking)to work on
mine, both a 289 and a 390( manual trans applications )It has served me for
going on 10 years of great service. It never fouled or burned a single plug.

Of course, perfect street performance never comes in a box, I usually find
it on top of a greasy old motor, or in the dirt at my local boneyard. Add a
good Echlin kit and tweak. I just don't like paying out all of that long
green for a street carb that's missing half the linkage and has to need that
much tuning to get right. On the two I helped with one was very rich and
the other very lean. The #'s were the same and both went on 350 Ch*vys.
That to me was a little odd. Our theory is inconsistant internal passage
construction. I don't really know for sure, though.

Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 17:46:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve & Rockette
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - A shoulder to cry on

> Insurance companies don't like being taken to court so I don't see
>it going that far. But they can let it go until your standing on the
>steps of the court house. Stand firm in your right to have your property
>repaired and find comfort in knowing the darkest, hottest pit in hell is
>reserved for insurance agents. :)
>Later!

And the best advice I can give you is ; if you go to court remember to
mention that you "tried to settle this dispute out of court" I got triple
damage plus lawyers fees for that line..........


>Deacon


DEACON.. how you been??

>deconblu gte.net http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
>==============================================
>Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm
>==============================================
>
>
Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'63 F100 Longbox
'94 Taurus SHO - SWMBO's new car!!
and since most are listing all thier cars:
'72 Capri - Rockette's Toy, aka - SWMBO
'73 Capri - My Toy / Daily Driver
'73 MGB-GT Our Toy
'70 Torino GT My "New" Car


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 17:46:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve & Rockette
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Thermostats and Heat Transfer

At 12:15 PM 3/7/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Ok, here we go. I made a statement about a 160 degree thermostat allowing
>"more room" for heat build up than a 195 degree thermostat. This post is an
>attempt at clarification of what I meant.
>

8

The one thing you forgot to mention:
Sealed system; even tap water can become a rust prohibitive
liquid, *IF* you get all the O2 out, that means running the catch
can, with enough liquid in it so it is drawn in as the engine cools,
displacing air in the system. You guys know that, right?

Think of it as a heating system, a cast iron boiler, black iron piping,
and an air trap. The air is expelled from the system, even though
new water is added fron time to time, I've worked on 50YO systems
that aren't rusted out, and the reason is, *NO* air in the system.


>
>-John
>

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'63 F100 Longbox
'94 Taurus SHO - SWMBO's new car!!
and since most are listing all thier cars:
'72 Capri - Rockette's Toy, aka - SWMBO
'73 Capri - My Toy / Daily Driver
'73 MGB-GT Our Toy
'70 Torino GT My "New" Car


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 20:02:49 -0500
From: Jim Henjum
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: twisted tranny id

Marko Maryniak wrote:

> If your reverse is UP, you have a Warner T-18 four speed.
>
> If your reverse is DOWN, you have a New Process 435 four speed. The NP 435
> is heavier.
>

I hate to say it, but I think you're wrong. I have both trannies in
different trucks and both are over to the right and down.

Ross Henjum


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 19:09:11 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Axle play

Tony wrote:
>Just to put in my .02 on this topic-- I have a '70 F-100 4x4 and it has
>the 1/8 inch of rear axle end-play also. I've had that thing apart and....


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