Re: FTE 61-79 - Whiter/Brighter

61-79-list-digest Wednesday, July 1 1998 Volume 02 : Number 359

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Whiter/Brighter - Relay-Lowering
Re: FTE 61-79 - 57-63 (?) 8' "Style" Side Bed Needed
Re: FTE 61-79 - Sunday thoughts....
Re: FTE 61-79 - 57-63 (?) 8' "Style" Side Bed Needed
Re: FTE 61-79 - Whiter/Brighter - Relay-Lowering
Re: FTE 61-79 - Whiter/Brighter - Relay-Lowering
FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79-custom body work
FTE 61-79 - RE: to much oil pressure??/carter AFB vac ports
FTE 61-79 - Look at My Ugly Bed
FTE 61-79 - a/c compressor
Re: FTE 61-79 - Look at My Ugly Bed
FTE 61-79 - New to list: Bunch of '73 F250 questions
FTE 61-79 - Re:overheating
FTE 61-79 - engine weights
FTE 61-79 - Spring Mounts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Look at My Ugly Bed
RE: FTE 61-79 - engine weights
FTE 61-79 - Cabled clutch
FTE 61-79 - Overheating Bronco
FTE 61-79 - Rivits
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine weights
Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating Bronco
RE: FTE 61-79 - Temp gauges/overheating
Re: FTE 61-79 - free advice, our main product
FTE 61-79 - Question on Dealer Installed A/C
FTE 61-79 - 69 Camper Speical info
FTE 61-79 - Compression Ratio's
FTE 61-79 - Edelbrock Kickdown Revisited
Re: FTE 61-79 - free advice, our main product
FTE 61-79 - 78 power steering
FTE 61-79 - 78 power steering
FTE 61-79 - 66 Custom Cab
FTE 61-79 - Air Conditioner Bracket- Replaceable Bearing
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 power steering
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 power steering
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 power steering

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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 16:29:28 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Whiter/Brighter - Relay-Lowering

Rogers wrote:

> The article on whiter brights on the FTE homepage is excellent, except it
> does not specify which relay is used. I just came back from Murrays Parts
> and though helpful, the counterperson pulled out every relay BUT one like
> the "Bosch" type Steve Delanty described.
> Could anyone provide me with a part number/manufacturer for the relay?

They usually come as a generic 30amp relay. They have 4 prongs on the bottom.

Here are some pics

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon/relayF/relay.htm
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon

sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 57-63 (?) 8' "Style" Side Bed Needed

>I knew you were going ;)
>
>It's the box that doesn't match any of the 61-66 body lines at all anywhere,
>and kind of goes with the 57-60 cab. When you see it you will know.
>
>I wish I could go ......
>
>--
>Don Grossman

I don't think You missed much at Pick'n'pull today Don...
I scored a a P/S box for my girlfriends '67 Galaxie which is a rare find
these days, but the vultures had done their job and the truck section was
pretty thoroughly picked clean. Not much left but Ford bones. )-:
They need a fresh crop of trucks..
I sure wish a decent set of disk brake parts would show up so I can convert
my '71.
I didn't find the requested truck box. The only ugly 8' beds I found were
on the chevy's...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/
'71 F100 flairside, FE390/T-18.
"The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it."
-- Oscar Wilde

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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 16:26:56 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sunday thoughts....

>My clutch linkage is all worn out and sloppy. The bell crank has hit the
>headers ever since I bought the truck and the mounting bracket on the frame
>is in the same location as my shock mount is going to go :( (before 65 the
>clutch rod off the pedal is on the outside of the frame). One other thing is
>when the truck is twisted up the clutch is difficult to disengage
>
>My first thought would be to rebuild the original system but that still leave
>the clutch rod problem and the twist problem.
>
>Next thought would be to convert to hydraulic clutch, I have a clutch master
>cylinder but no slave cylinder and no experience with hydraulic clutches.
>
>What about a cable? I can run a cable anywhere I need, there should be no
>problem with frame twist, and no chance of leaking :)
>
>enter opinions here....

My personal vote would be for a hyd system. I've owned several vehicles with
cable clutches and I think they're a pain. The cables stretch, and they have
to be lubed regularly or they get sticky. My cables usually broke at the most
inopportune times...
I finally got so frustrated with the cable clutch in one of my old VW's that
I converted it to hydraulic. It worked really nice after that.
Hydraulic clutches may have less tendancy to chatter also, since the torque
reaction of the motor relative to the frame doesn't screw with things like
it does on a linkage or cable setup.
Hydraulic master and slave cylinders are available
by the hundreds at Pick'n'pull... (-:

>Next I was trying to find a good spot to put an oil pressure (on FE) switch
>for an electric fuel pump, and does anyone have a Part # handy?

Whadda Ya want a part # for? You're just gonna get an oil pressure switch
off most any Ford at the wreckers aren't Ya? (-:

>Here are the two possible tanks that I have come up with
>
>8x27x14 would give me an extra 13 gallons under the bed next to the air
>tank.
>or
>10x10x54 would give me an extra 23 gallons in the bed of the truck with room
>for a mount for the jack and other extras above it
>
>That is if my math is right ;)

Yep, 231 cubic inches per gallon...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/
'71 F100 flairside, FE390/T-18.
"The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it."
-- Oscar Wilde

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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 16:33:49 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 57-63 (?) 8' "Style" Side Bed Needed

Thanks for your message at 04:26 PM 6/29/98 -0700, sdelanty

sonic.net. Your
message was:

> I didn't find the requested truck box. The only ugly 8' beds I found were
> on the chevy's...
>
That's redundant.

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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 18:27:27 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Whiter/Brighter - Relay-Lowering

>> The article on whiter brights on the FTE homepage is excellent, except it
>> does not specify which relay is used. I just came back from Murrays Parts
>> and though helpful, the counterperson pulled out every relay BUT one like
>> the "Bosch" type Steve Delanty described.
>> Could anyone provide me with a part number/manufacturer for the relay?

>They usually come as a generic 30amp relay. They have 4 prongs on the bottom.
>
>Here are some pics
>
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon/relayF/relay.htm
>--
>Don Grossman

Gee Don, mine have *5* prongs! Same relay, but the 5 prong ones have an
extra "load side" prong so you can plug 2 wires onto it. (what a coincidence,
I have 2 headlights to plug on it :-)

DON'T ask the parts counter guy... they always wanna know "year, make, model".
Look in the lighting section of the store, where the foglights and driving
lights are kept. The relays were used decades ago as fuel pump relays for
VW's with EFI. It was a good cheap design and now everyone copies them and
they are available aftermarket, usually for lighting circuits.
I usually get mine at Checker/Schucks/Kragen auto parts for under $3 ea. but
I find them at other stores also. They've always been out in the store with
the aftermarket lighting stuff, never in the back where the counter guy
had to go get them. Sometimes the guy behind the counter doesn't even know they
have them...
If You can't find them at Your auto parts store, try a 4x4 "off road" shop
that sells nasty big driving lights and stuff.

Any good quality relay with a 12VDC coil and contacts rated at 20 amps or more
should work fine. I use the "Bosch style" ones because they are cheap,
reliable, and easy to mount. And are readily available around here.

Oh Yeah, I've got some pics of the Bosch relay also...

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/relay/bosch01.htm

The whiter whites article is actually on Deacon's web space, maybe he'll read
this and link the pics to the article for me...
Deacon are You out there?

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/
'71 F100 flairside, FE390/T-18.
"The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it."
-- Oscar Wilde

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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 19:14:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve & Rockette
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Whiter/Brighter - Relay-Lowering

>
>On the other side of the vehicle, (Underside) has anyone out there lowered
>a 1970 F100. What is the best way? Who are some suppliers of componentry?
>
I saw and talked with the owner of a lowered 67 Effie, he had a truck frame
and axle outfit bend and stretch his I-beams, lowered the truck about 4" in
front and flipped the springs in the rear for about 6" of drop.... this was
before all the kits where available, he made the perches for the rear and
welded them up, the truck was *very* well done........

>1997 Taurus SHO No mods needed, YET!

Are you on the sho list? Have they stopped whining about MTX vs Atx?
or Shoshop? I had to quit that list, I've never seen so much crap and
completely useless tech info.....

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'63 F100 Longbox
'94 Taurus SHO - SWMBO's new car!!
and since most are listing all thier cars:
'72 Capri - Rockette's Toy, aka - SWMBO
'73 Capri - My Toy / Daily Driver
'73 MGB-GT Our Toy
'70 Torino GT My "New" Car

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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 22:39:47 -0400
From: Rick and Deborah Kelso
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-79-custom body work

to answer your question about drip rail removal, check out the August 1998 issue
of Classic Trucks. They have an article on this.

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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 20:43:20 -0600
From: dcbeatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: to much oil pressure??/carter AFB vac ports

OX. I just picked up an Edelbrock 1405. The book says the port on the
passenger side is for ported vacuum and the one on the driver side is for
straight vacuum. The big port at the base of the front of the carb is for
PCV.

I knew a guy who had problems with too much oil pressure in a '66 Mustang.
At high RPM, (I'm talking WAY high--this thing would do 90 MPH in first
gear) it would throw oil out of any breather he put on it. He had a high
volume pump in it.

Hope this helps,

Drew
dcbeatty

rmi.net

>From: luxjo

thecore.com[SMTP:luxjo

thecore.com]
>Sent: Monday, June 29, 1998 8:42 AM
>To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - to much oil pressure??/carter AFB vac ports

>Howdy

> Fired up the bronc's 351M yesterday after installing carter AFB/edlb
>performer, high volume oil pump and new chain and it seems I am getting
>almost 90 PSI pressure at high idle when cold. Is there such a thing as
>too much oil pressure? Also, is there a specific port for vac advance
>that should be used on a carter AFB? Which port should I use for PCV?

OX

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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 23:06:06 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Look at My Ugly Bed

> So this box You want is just a 8' styleside bed, but it's got the
> "latches and rattling chains" style tailgate? Hmmm, dunno that I've
> ever seen one of those before. I'll look while I'm at the yard...

Go to my website(link below) and look at my truck, that's the bed he
wants.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr

ldd.net
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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 23:04:07 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - a/c compressor

>Can someone with an intact 351M in a 79 or so tell me if there is a factory
brace here?

John,
I just went out and looked at my '79.........no brace. The bracket appears
to be cast and plenty strong. I don't have any extreme vibration with mine,
just what you would typically expect with the York compressors.

good luck,
dale c
'79 351M f-150

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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 22:20:31 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Look at My Ugly Bed

>> So this box You want is just a 8' styleside bed, but it's got the
>> "latches and rattling chains" style tailgate? Hmmm, dunno that I've
>> ever seen one of those before. I'll look while I'm at the yard...
>
>Go to my website(link below) and look at my truck, that's the bed he
>wants.

Nope, There definately wasn't any of those at Pick'n'pull today...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/
'71 F100 flairside, FE390/T-18.
"The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it."
-- Oscar Wilde

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Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 02:37:00 -0700
From: "Wilson, Gregg"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New to list: Bunch of '73 F250 questions

Background: I recently got a '73 F250 Camper Special (390 2bbl, totally
stock) that my dad has had since '78; I used to drive it around '80-81
when I was in high school. I remember taking into autoshop with about
93k miles on it and the instructor said it had "a perfect [o-scope]
trace". It has 114k original miles on it now, and the heads rebuilt at
112k. Bottom end appears sound, with good compression, no smoke or
leaks.

The thing has been sitting (not started once :-/) for the last 6 years
just because my dad didn't "need" it. He never put any hard miles on
it, most of them driving the 1 mile between his shop and his house on a
25mph street. I got it going again and it runs and drives sweet. I had
my front-end suspension guy take in the camber and castor, f.e align,
new tires, and it never tracked so good. I plan on hauling a 26' 5th
wheel with it.

Questions:

1) I am interested in obtaining the GCVWR for my truck. Since I
represent absolutely no profit to my local Ford dealer at the moment,
they tell me that they have no idea how to obtain this for " a truck
that old". Does anyone out there have an owners manual for this vintage
F250, and if so, does it have the GCVWR/ towing capacity info listed?
GVWR=7500#, R.A=5300#, F.A. =5000#, C6 ( I think) transmission, 390
2bbl, Camper Special package. Which brings me to question #2...

2) What does the Camper Special package entail? I assume it entails
rear suspension overloads. Anything else?

3) My truck doesn't have A/C. Any good tips/articles on installing A/C
on trucks not originally equipped?

4) I have a slight rear brake "noise". My brake guy (same as front-end
guy) looked through the inspection holes and said there was plenty of
meat left, and it was probably just some rust or crud from sitting that
will work itself out with driving it. However, when I indicated that I
would still like to pull the drums and take a look for myself, he said
that it was "a bitch", and pulling the axles aside, I would need
specialty tools to work on these brakes. Does anyone have any
experience and insight with this? My Chilton's manual doesn't indicate
anything terribly stress inducing.

This is enough for now. Thanks for your consideration in advance.

Gregg Wilson
'73 F250 Camper Special
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Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 07:27:20 EDT
From: NUTCH11

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:overheating

hi

driving to fast and over heating.
do you have a fan clutch and or a flexible fan.
if neither your fan might be going fast enough to block air flow.
that's why they put fan clutches .

nutch
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Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 07:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon

uss.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - engine weights

Hey ! who's got the engine weight tables and where did you put them ?

I'm compiling the data on a 460 and want to check out the format

thanks

john
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Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 07:38:11 -0500
From: "Don Yerhot"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Spring Mounts

I was wondering if someone on the list that has a 67 to 74 F150 could
do me a favor? I have access to some 9" rears out of a 67 and a 70 F150
and need to know the distance between the spring mounts, preferably
center to center. The trucks are about 70 miles from where I live, so
I'm trying to avoid an un-needed trip if I don't have to.
Thanks in advance

Don
Richfield, MN
65 F250/351w/435np

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Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 09:06:39 -0500
From: Jim Henjum
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Look at My Ugly Bed

Hey, I've seen those beds before. My cousin has one on a '65 F350. But his
is a 9 ft. bed. Are there many 9' beds around? Thanks.

Ross Henjum

'75 F250 4x4 460, NP435, 205

William L Ballinger wrote:

> > Go to my website(link below) and look at my truck, that's the bed he
> wants.
> --
> Come on over to my Back Porch
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
> Ballinger
> ballingr

ldd.net
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Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 07:53:28 -0700
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - engine weights

Steve Delanty is who I sent my info to on my 66 F100 Radiator

John Gillespie
66 F100 240-I6

From:jniolon

uss.com [SMTP:jniolon

uss.com]
Hey ! who's got the engine weight tables and where did you put them ?

I'm compiling the data on a 460 and want to check out the format

thanks

john

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Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 11:01:17 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cabled clutch

Don G writes: >>What about a cable? I can run a cable anywhere I need,
there should be no problem with frame twist, and no chance of leaking

I think all front wheel drives use cables, so I can't forsee a problem.
You just have to make sure you can anchor it firmly. An FE clucch isn't
easy to depress.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:42:51 -0400
From: Chris Robinson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Overheating Bronco

Hi All,

Ok, I have finally fixed my overheating issues! Bet you'd like to hear
what it was?

Carb running too lean above 1600 rpms was 75% of it. I had put a new
holley 750 that my brother gave me. It was new but had been jetted for
a 351C. It had #67 jets in it. I rejetted, ended up with #77s.
Temperature stayed in the middle of the gage but was higher than what it
used to be. Put a mechanical temp gage inplace of the factory sending
unit and put the gage in the cab and verified. It said 220f. So, I
replaced the new 160f thermostat with the 195f. Temperature now runs at
195f and never goes over. This was on a 98f day, full throttle up a
very steep hill!!!

So, there! But my a/c pump started making a very bad sound at idle.
Sounds like a rod knocking. Any suggestions? I do have an extra pump.

Thirdly, does anyone have a C6 auto kickdown lever? When I bought the
bronco, it didn't have one.

Later,

Chris R.

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Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 11:06:08 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rivits

Doug Hack writes: >>I'd like input on how to get the rivets out of the
rear spring mounts,

Heavy duty grinder - Air or Elect. Grind the heads off just into the
surrounding metal, then with a large blunt drift pin and at least a 4#
hammer knoch them out. Use #8 bolts that fit snugly and tighten to spec of
the bolt.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 08:25:43 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine weights

> Hey ! who's got the engine weight tables and where did you put them ?
>
> I'm compiling the data on a 460 and want to check out the format
>
> thanks
>
> john

Great, send me the data please! A few folks have sent me weights of some
misc parts, but I don't have very much stuff yet...
Please send a general description of the part, part #, and weight.
Like: 460 head, casting # C7AB-123456, 52 lbs.

What I've got so far is at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/weights/

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/
'71 F100 flairside, FE390/T-18.
"The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it."
-- Oscar Wilde

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Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 08:53:02 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating Bronco

Chris R. wrote:
>Ok, I have finally fixed my overheating issues! Bet you'd like to hear
>what it was?
>
>Carb running too lean above 1600 rpms was 75% of it. I had put a new
>holley 750 that my brother gave me. It was new but had been jetted for
>a 351C. It had #67 jets in it. I rejetted, ended up with #77s.
>Temperature stayed in the middle of the gage but was higher than what it
>used to be. Put a mechanical temp gage inplace of the factory sending
>unit and put the gage in the cab and verified. It said 220f. So, I
>replaced the new 160f thermostat with the 195f. Temperature now runs at
>195f and never goes over. This was on a 98f day, full throttle up a
>very steep hill!!!

I just love a story with a happy ending... (-:

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/
'71 F100 flairside, FE390/T-18.
"The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it."
-- Oscar Wilde

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Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 12:16:52 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Temp gauges/overheating

these gauges may be mounted in different locations, giving the different readings.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Dennis Pearson[SMTP:dpearson

ctc.edu]
Sent: Monday, June 29, 1998 6:19 PM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Temp gauges/overheating

This beautiful, warm afternoon (93 degrees) in the desert of SE WA , I
couldn't help but develop some hot insight as I drove my '62 into the
college parking lot. I have two temp gauges, one factory (which still
seems to work) and an aftermarket (no brand name--came with the truck). I
couldn't help but notice the factory gauge reading right at 180, the
aftermarket reading right at 200. Nothing like precision instruments. The
truck gives no indication of overheating (I still turn on the electric fan
manually), and I have no problem to solve (not for this list, anyway). I
just couldn't resist commenting on the unreliability of those instruments
which we rely on so religiously to tell what our engines are doing. At
least they are not "idiot" lights ( or are they?)!
1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1970 Marquis 429
1973 Mustang 302 (tired)
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
!962 Unibody short box (shell)traded to Levi--
It's gonna be a convertible!
1990 Aerostar
1981 Rabbit Convertible (How did that get in here?)
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Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:11:38 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - free advice, our main product

John wrote:

>Your overheating problems sound like my 351M all of the time, but only with
>the AC running and 98+ temps outside (quite common this summer). I have a
>160 degree t-stat that I run year round. We've had this t-stat discussion
>before, but in your case, if you go to 195, you are only going to aggravate
>your problem, because you have a circulation restriction (could even be a
>stuck thermostat). You will force the engine to run hotter, giving you less
>room to the point of overheating.

I don't see how a 195 thermo is any more likely to "aggravate" an overheating
problem than a 160 is.
If You are seeing temps of 200+ degrees, the thermostat rating is totally
out of the picture. The thermostat is gonna be fully open and a 195 gives
the same restriction to coolant flow as a 160...
I've fixed a lot of cooling system problems and I've never seen a time
where replacing a *properly working* thermostat with a lower temp one
helped an overheating problem.

I prefer the more stable operating temp that a higher cooling system temp
gives.
If Your motor gets to a coolant temp of, say 215 under hard load with a 160
thermo, then the motor temp will vary from 160 with light load to 215 with
a hard load. That's a 55 degree spread in coolant operating temp.
With a 195 thermo, the motor will vary from 195 under light load to 215
under hard load. A spread of only 20 degrees. It's much better for a motor
to run at a constant temp than to have the coolant temp vary all over
the place. It's not high temps that crack heads and blocks, it's sudden
or localized changes in temp...

>Ethylene glycol anti-freeze mixed 50-50
>with distilled water gives the best cooling performance and the best freeze
>protection.

I agree that a 50/50 mix may provide best freeze protection, but a 50/50
mix does *not* provide the best cooling performance. Compared to plain
water, glycol is a crummy conductor of heat. It raises the boiling temp
of the coolant slightly, which is good, but it reduces the coolants ability
to transfer heat, which is a bad thing. Some glycol antifreeze is good to
provide corrosion protection and lube for the pump seal, but 15% should
be plenty and more than that is reducing Your cooling sysems ability
to transfer heat.

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/
'71 F100 flairside, FE390/T-18.
"The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it."
-- Oscar Wilde

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 19:58:49 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Question on Dealer Installed A/C

Anybody have any info on 67-72 Dealer installed A/C????i just pulled
a factory A/C system and a Dealer installed one too.. I like
the dealer installed one it lets you keep your original glove box...
And fits around the blower motor and original heater core..anybody
out there with one like this????I would like to hear from you..
- --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 21:15:30 -0400
From: Mike Elmer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 69 Camper Speical info

I'm pretty new to the list it's been a big help.I recently bought a 1969 Camper Speical
W/low mileage, is there anyway to tell if it's a true C/S. When I start it in the AM the
oil pressure is right up there, but as it warms up it drops down to just above the L
on the guage. It goes right back up wheh I'm going down the road.It dosn't knock or rap
when it drops.Should I trust the factory guage?It's got the 360 it came with. Thanks
Mikey in Fla.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 20:25:06 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Compression Ratio's

>it depends on many factors, and rules of thumb are on the safe side,
>usually saying 9.5:1 for cast iron heads, 10.5:1 for aluminum. but, i have
>a 460 that ran 11.5:1 on pump with cast iron heads, so go figure.

I have read that building a motor with longer connecting rods and a modified
combustion chamber shape can allow higher compression ratios on pump gas.
Can anyone explain the theory behind this? Anyone actually done this?
later,
dale c

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 21:00:20 -0600
From: dcbeatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Edelbrock Kickdown Revisited

Greeting list.

In May there was a thread about getting the kickdown to work on an
Edelbrock 4v. I searched the archives and didn't find a conclusion on the
subject. Is there anybody out there that has done this and made it work?
I'm using it on a 390 in a 1967, so the kickdown is a solid rod, not the
cable. Should I expect problems getting it to work? Is the E-brock adapter
a waste of money?

I'm trying to plan ahead for the day I drop the motor in. I don't want to
be dinking around when I should be driving it.

Thanks again for any ideas,

Drew
dcbeatty

rmi.net

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 19:09:02 PDT
From: "genesis sanchez"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - free advice, our main product

>Chris and Genesis (now I'm confused),
>Your overheating problems sound like my 351M all of the time, but only
with
>the AC running and 98+ temps outside (quite common this summer). I have
a
>160 degree t-stat that I run year round. We've had this t-stat
discussion
>before, but in your case, if you go to 195, you are only going to
aggravate
>your problem, because you have a circulation restriction (could even be
a
>stuck thermostat). You will force the engine to run hotter, giving you
less
>room to the point of overheating. Ethylene glycol anti-freeze mixed
50-50
>with distilled water gives the best cooling performance and the best
freeze
>protection. One thing I haven't seen mentioned on overheating: If your
>hoses are old or ruined, they can collapse.
>
>Everyone in general:
>If you are going to be taking a bunch of coil springs in and out, buy
some
>spring compressors. They don't cost that much and they will save you a
lot
>of cussing when your jacks won't raise up far enough or you break a
brake
>hose. It took me about 90 minutes on the first side and about 30
minutes on
>the second side.
>
>Jim,
>Regarding that big nut: Lots of WD-40 and a good 12 inch Crescent
wrench
>combined with patience and perseverence.
>
>I'm still way behind on the e-mail cycle.
>
>-John
>
>
JOHN,
I'm still running hot.....

I've done a couple of things to the system.. I pulled the thermostat to
check it out,, it was working.. I replaced the lower case hose, it had
no wire in it...and replaced coolant with 50/50 mix....

The only thing i have not done was replaced the water pump and that is
next if it continue to run hot...

I'm also thinking that may be the water ports on the in-take manifold
might be plugged.. what are the chances???? the sending unit is right on
top of the in-take manifold...

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 08:17:17 -0400
From: luxjo

thecore.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78 power steering

Hi all

After three months of work, I finally moved the bronc last night. Just
to recap, I did a bunch of mods including installing a dana 60 front in
my 78 bronco. I have a power steering problem now that I did not have
before. The pump is whining loudly and the power steering barely works.
I did replace the low pressure line, but did not even disconnect the
high presure line. The fluid was completely drained and refilled. It is
currently filled correctly. I also jacked up the front end to check for
binding. I can rotate steering back and forth by hand without to much
resistance.

What might cause a power steering system to crap out just from
changing the fluid? Does the PS system need to be bled?

Thanks in advance

OX

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 08:17:17 -0400
From: luxjo

neesnet.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 Custom Cab

I'm new to the list and just bought a 66 longbed, 352 auto.
Bought it here in Mass., but originally from KS (have the owner's
manual w/ original owner info typed in!) I have a couple of
questions. On the ID numbers, the consecutive build number is
780420 - when was this built? Also, the paint code is BM, body
style C81, transmission C, gear ratio 17, and DSO of 53. Can
anyone interpret these for me?

The orig. wheel covers and horn button are missing. This is a
Custom Cab - anyone know what the originals looked like when I go
looking for parts - did the horn button carry the "ring gear and
lightning bolt" logo?

Should I be thinking about replacing the original oil bath air
filter? It seems like a pain to maintain - is a swap to a paper
element pretty easy? Anyone know of sources for original-type
upholstery?

This is a great list, and I'm looking forward to learning lots
about my new baby!

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 10:42:09 -0400
From: "Desanto, Phillip"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Air Conditioner Bracket- Replaceable Bearing

Ted, if that A/C Idler Pulley and Bracket is the same one I think it is,
Ford used it for years from the early 60's thru the late 70's..... maybe
longer.
Anyway, The bearing in those comes out real easy by taking out the snap
ring in the back and tapping it out.(it's not really "pressed" in) Then you
can take it with you to a local Bearing supply house, or a "decent" parts
store, and they can get you a replacement. Remember, you want a "sealed"
bearing, just like the original.
Hope this
helps...........Phil
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 08:03:29 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 power steering

luxjo

thecore.com wrote:

> Hi all
>
> After three months of work, I finally moved the bronc last night. Just
> to recap, I did a bunch of mods including installing a dana 60 front in
> my 78 bronco. I have a power steering problem now that I did not have
> before. The pump is whining loudly and the power steering barely works.
> I did replace the low pressure line, but did not even disconnect the
> high presure line. The fluid was completely drained and refilled. It is
> currently filled correctly. I also jacked up the front end to check for
> binding. I can rotate steering back and forth by hand without to much
> resistance.
>
> What might cause a power steering system to crap out just from
> changing the fluid? Does the PS system need to be bled?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> OX

In a way yes the system needs to be bled. From what I have seen is
basically just jacking up the front end and with the engine running turn
the wheel lock to lock, and topping the fluid off as you go. I have a
small leak in my PS system and when it gets low the whining and growling
comes back. All I do is add some fluid and within a couple of turns the
whining is gone.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon

pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 11:46:20 -0500
From: "Michael R. Masse"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 power steering

Ox,
Sorry I have no advice for your steering problem, but you had
mentioned earlier
that you had tweaked your lower spring mount to get the spring
straight. Could you elaborate a little on what you did?

luxjo

thecore.com wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> After three months of work, I finally moved the bronc last night. Just
> to recap, I did a bunch of mods including installing a dana 60 front in
> my 78 bronco. I have a power steering problem now that I did not have
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 12:56:52 -0400
From: luxjo

thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 power steering

Don Grossman wrote:
>
> luxjo

thecore.com wrote:
>
> > Hi all
> >
> > After three months of work, I finally moved the bronc last night. Just....

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