61-79-list-digest Monday, June 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 358



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - website update
FTE 61-79 - Ugly Bed?
FTE 61-79 - Sunday thoughts....
FTE 61-79 - Rivet Replacement
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: May archives online
FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake pedal not returning all the way
Re: FTE 61-79 - Sunday thoughts....
RE: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - Quadrajet on 460
FTE 61-79 - F-100's & 302's
Re: FTE 61-79 - re: fte 61-79 running hot
RE: FTE 61-79 - Quadrajet on 460
FTE 61-79 - May I ask a favor?
Re: FTE 61-79 - F-100's & 302's
FTE 61-79 - custom body work
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake pedal not returning
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake pedal not returning
Re: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Question
FTE 61-79 - to much oil pressure??/carter AFB vac ports
FTE 61-79 - What did Explorer mean in '69?
FTE 61-79 - Different types of Underdash A/C'???
FTE 61-79 - RE:Overheating
FTE 61-79 - A/C pulley
Re: FTE 61-79 - 57-63 (?) 8' "Style" Side Bed Needed
RE: FTE 61-79 - to much oil pressure??/carter AFB vac ports
Re: FTE 61-79 - Branscome - Overheating
Re: FTE 61-79 - 57-63 (?) 8' "Style" Side Bed Needed
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ugly Bed?
FTE 61-79 - 360 Rebuild
FTE 61-79 - RE: Overheating, electric Fans
FTE 61-79 - free advice, our main product
FTE 61-79 - Whiter/Brighter - Relay-Lowering
FTE 61-79 - Temp gauges/overheating

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Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 15:44:35 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: FTE 61-79 - website update

for anyone following my pull truck build up, i have updated the pages
again. i have put some more info on the engine build and what i am
currently doing.

thank you
sleddog

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Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 15:29:04 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ugly Bed?

>I believe this bed was used from 57-63, it is the *really ugly* 8 foot
>slab sided one, with a step-side style tailgate that has latches and
>chains that rattle around. I still want it because I think ugly makes
>the truck look tough. I have only seen 2 around here but they were
>unfortunately for me both installed on running trucks.

Whatchu callin' ugly???? I have one on my '65 F250 4X4 and I agree with you,
it looks tough!
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net

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Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 14:11:32 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sunday thoughts....

I was just about to head out to fix my brake lights when some thoughts came
to mind.

My clutch linkage is all worn out and sloppy. The bell crank has hit the
headers ever since I bought the truck and the mounting bracket on the frame
is in the same location as my shock mount is going to go :( (before 65 the
clutch rod off the pedal is on the outside of the frame). One other thing is
when the truck is twisted up the clutch is difficult to disengage

My first thought would be to rebuild the original system but that still leave
the clutch rod problem and the twist problem.

Next thought would be to convert to hydraulic clutch, I have a clutch master
cylinder but no slave cylinder and no experience with hydraulic clutches.

What about a cable? I can run a cable anywhere I need, there should be no
problem with frame twist, and no chance of leaking :)

enter opinions here....

Next I was trying to find a good spot to put an oil pressure (on FE) switch
for an electric fuel pump, and does anyone have a Part # handy?

Here are the two possible tanks that I have come up with

8x27x14 would give me an extra 13 gallons under the bed next to the air
tank.
or
10x10x54 would give me an extra 23 gallons in the bed of the truck with room
for a mount for the jack and other extras above it

That is if my math is right ;)

Or do both and get rid of the in cab tank... Just an idea.

Well I fixed the brake lights, just a fuse.

What about moving the tail lights to the bumper. I could cutout the holes in
the rear bumper for that nice clean look, yea and the backup lights too.

There had to be something else that I am forgetting, but I will think of it
soon.

Laters

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 14:09:37 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rivet Replacement

- -> From: "Douglas W. Hack"
- -> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Making a '78 F150 into an F250

SNIP
- ->
- -> I'd like input on how to get the rivets out of the rear spring mounts,
- -> and what to replace them with.

Use an Air Chisel or a grinder and simply remove the heads of the rivets on
the outside of the frame mainly because this is the easiest place to do this
part of the job. Then find a piece of steel that is just slightly smaller
then the body of the rivet. Using a suitably heavy hammer, drive the
remaining rivet out through the holes in the bracket and frame. If you get
the bracket off and the rivet is above the surface of the frame, use the
grinder and grind it off flush but DO NOT hit the frame with the grinder.
You can duct tape a fender washer of the correct size around the rivet to
keep the grinder operator from hitting the side of the frame, still be
careful as the grinder will fling the washer if you hit it hard. Another
trick is to drill a hole through the rivet on the center-line to weaken the
rivet making it easier to pound out.
Once you have the rivets out align the new pieces and temporarily bolt them
together. Get everything lined up perfectly and then pull the bolts up good
and tight.
Now you know what size bolts you used, so go down to your local hardware
store and get the next size bigger (actually 1/2 inch is big enough for most
applications)Grade 8 bolts, Grade 8 Washers and Grade 8 Nuts, Some Acetone,
and some Loctite Stud Locker. Do Not Get any Lock Washers! When you pick
out the bolts try to find them so that the shank (un-threaded portion of the
bolt) is just slightly shorter then the total thickness of: the frame + the
Bracket + 1 of the washers; getting a bolt that is over all too long is
better then one that is too short, the shank length is the critical point.
Take a Caliper and actually measure the diameter of the bolt at the shank
and get a drill bit that is that size.
Next, you pull out one of the bolts that is holding the bracket on and take
the drill and carefully drill the existing hole to the new bolt size. The
idea is to have a hole diameter that is as close to the Bolt Shank diameter
as you can get it. If you have access Ream the hole to size. The hole must
be absolutely straight and perpendicular to the frame and bracket; this will
allow the bolt and nut heads to pull up evenly, and not put any load on the
fastener.
Install the new bolt and you do the same for every hole, one at a time. When
you are done disassemble and clean the mounting points and frame, paint as
necessary before assembly. Next if the bolts were too long cut them off but
try not to get the bolt too hot as you will loose the temper (strength).
Now the paint should be dry so assemble the parts, just before you are ready
to screw down the nuts wash them and the bolts, washers in acetone, or break
clean; use a washer under the bolt head and the nut; enough of the Loctite
to feel comfortable that you have it in the threads and tighten everything
down. Next whip out the Torque Wrench and tighten the bolts to their proper
loading. Hint snug all of the bolts on one side up and torque them in one
operation as you do not want the Loctite to go off before your done. The
torque spec for the size bolt should be easy to find, it is often listed in
the shop manual.
Mark the Nut to Bolt relationship after everything is tight with a dap of
yellow paint in a line across the points of the nut and end of the bolt,
this will give you a good easy to check indicator on whether the bolts are
staying tight.
Let the whole shoot'n match set over night and your ready to go.
Don't re-torque these bolts as you will break the bond in the Loctite, this
is why you use the Torque Wrench, Technically you don't need the Loctite.
Why no "Lock Washer"?, these nifty devices will do nothing until its too
late anyway that's one of the reasons they are left out, the other is that
they generally don't take the full torque load and will give a false read to
the Torque Wrench. They have their applications this just is not one of
them.
As I am foolish and think that I can build anything better then the factory
this is how I lifted the back of my Bronco, New brackets that dropped the
Stock brackets down 2 inches and changed the angle of the spring. It has
held up to the last 5 years of hard wheeling with out a complaint.
Let's see I used a Grinder, Hammer, Air Chisel, Drill, Duct Tape, Paint and
went to the hardware store, of course you need the appropriate wrenches and
a Torque Wrench and Loctite. Don't for get Eye and Ear protection when
appropriate!) And on the way home from the Hardware store stop and get a
cold one for when your done!
Is this a great country!!!

Chris
79 Bronco


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Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 17:25:43 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: May archives online

List archives for May have been placed on the web site. Link is
based off the main page.

Later,
Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 14:39:07 -0700
From: Carey & Norm
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake pedal not returning all the way

In my '65, I just replaced the master cylinder with a brand new one
(single reservior), and my pedal still doesn't return up. I've been
lifting it up with my foot for 4 or 5 years now, so I'm used to it, but
I'm considering having my brakes overhauled anyway. They seem to stop
the truck okay most of the time, but in rare instances when I need to
lock them up, sometimes it's a little scary.

Say, while I'm on, if anyone out there stumbles upon a Custom Cab horn
ring for a '65, ('64 - '67, I think), in good to excellent condition,
let me know. I've been looking for one, but if I can even find one,
it's in pretty bad shape. Chrome horn cap with attached 3-tier, half
circle ring, black center, no plastic like in earlier years, chrome
lettering in the black center that reads, "Product of Ford Motor
Company", with Ford oval in center. I know some of the parts houses
have them new, and that's how I may go, but I prefer an original part
over a repro, and the repros seem to run anywhere from $40. - $70.
Hopefully a boneyard won't run that high, if one can even be found.
Thanks in advance for any help. This digest page is the best!

Norm, carey value.net
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Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 17:44:55 +0000
From: Garr&Pam
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sunday thoughts....

Don Grossman wrote:
>
> I was just about to head out to fix my brake lights when some thoughts came
> to mind.

Next thought would be to convert to hydraulic clutch, I have a clutch
mastercylinder but no slave cylinder and no experience with hydraulic
clutches.

I hated my hydraulic clutch in my 94 ranger but I never had a problem
with it just sis not like the way it felt. The weather made the clutch
pedal feel different under different weather conditions.



What about moving the tail lights to the bumper. I could cutout the
holes in the rear bumper for that nice clean look, yea and the backup
lights too.

I went to a car shows in may and there way a 94 F150 flareside there
that had cut the ford script out on both corners and mounted lights
behind the cut outs...pretty sharp but I would do it on a roll pan and
just get rid of the bumper but unlike most of the peole on the list my
truck does NO work!!! It just hauls a**!
Chris
94 Lightning
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Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 23:37:21 -0400
From: "Ken Schneider"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Question

If you could, that would probaby help, I'm not sure if the 73-up column
lenghts are the same as the 68-69's or not. Is there a steering expert that
can step in here?

Ken


> I just pulled a column from a 73? f150 I don't think it's
> original but it was
> bolted up to a ford ps box......I'll measure the length for you
> if that will
> help.
>
> Dennis

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Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 23:39:27 -0400
From: "Ken Schneider"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Quadrajet on 460

You might want to try Trans-dapt for an adapter, there phone # is
310-921-0404, I don't have an 800 # for them. Summit may also carry
Trans-dapt.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Brett
> Sent: Friday, June 26, 1998 9:02 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Quadrajet on 460
>
>
> Hi, I've got a 76 F250 4x4 with a 460 and I'd like to put a qjet from a
> 1980 camaro on it. The 460 manifold is a spreadbore and the qjet is also a
> spreadbore but the mounting holes don't line up. I was told there is an
> adapter out there to allow this but the ford throttle plate holes don't
> match up with the qjet throttle plate holes. I'm assuming this wouldn't be
> optimum. Has anyone done anything like this? Is there a certain manifold I
> should use or does anyone have any suggestions?
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Brett
> 76 F250 4x4 460 and 38's
>
> == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 23:41:17 -0400
From: "Ken Schneider"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - F-100's & 302's

I thought 302's iin F-100's didn't come out until '69??


Ken


> Joe
> Aka. Fordguy
> 1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
> 1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
> == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 21:04:59 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - re: fte 61-79 running hot

Thanks for your message at 10:41 AM 6/27/98 -0700, bill dunn. Your message
was:
The problem was
>that the lower radiator hose was missing the spring from the inside to
>keep it from collapsing when you are at high speed. The purpose of the
>spring is to keep the hose from collapsing when the water pump is ran at
>high rpm and pumping extra water. The problem with the Chrysler was the
>lower hose would collapse at high speed and block water flow. Just a
>thought.
>
>Bill Dunn
>
Like a flash from the past--I think you've hit it. The exact same thing
happened to my son--why didn't I remember it? At relatively high rpms, his
hose was also collapsing, not allowing coolant to circulate. By jove, I
think you've hit it! The only doubt I have is from the fact that his, too,
was a Mopar. Did they have different hoses?

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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 00:53:52 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Quadrajet on 460

yes, summit does carry transdapt
sleddog

- ----------
From: Ken Schneider[SMTP:coolestdude usa.net]
Sent: Sunday, June 28, 1998 11:39 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Quadrajet on 460

You might want to try Trans-dapt for an adapter, there phone # is
310-921-0404, I don't have an 800 # for them. Summit may also carry
Trans-dapt.


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Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 23:51:24 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: FTE 61-79 - May I ask a favor?

I need someone to do me a little favor. Anybody with a 78 or 79 3/4
ton 4x4, if you could measure the distance between the outside of the
front frame rails. The area just above the front spring hangers. I
get 34" on my 63, what do you all get?

You can eMail me off the list

Thanks
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 06:46:30 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - F-100's & 302's

Ken Schneider wrote:
>
> I thought 302's iin F-100's didn't come out until '69??
>
> Ken
>
> > Joe
> > Aka. Fordguy
> > 1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
> > 1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
> > == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
Ken,
SO did I Until I found this truck..I think its a late 68, but the
numbers match and its titled as a 68 truck....
Joe
- --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 06:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon uss.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - custom body work


Still working on that '53 f-100...doing the body work and engine work
now

My questions to this amazing store of knowledge"

Has anyone any experience in removing drip rails. I had been
considering this for several months and recently there was an article
on how to do it on a "mid-70's Ch*vy, but that ain't a mid-50's Ford.

Has anyone ever done this? What types of problems did you have ?
Any problem with warping of sheet metal ?
After a while did you develop any leaks, squeaks,or weakness in the
panels ?

Generally the question I'm asking is "Do I know what I'm about to
undertake ???"

It looks reasonably straight forward in the article, but hey, I saw a
transmission changeout in a late model Blazer on TV Saturday in about
20 minutes (including commercials !!! ).

Your comments please ???
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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 08:08:37 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake pedal not returning

Didn't see the original post, but this happened to me on my 78 Bronco
and it turned out to be the piston inside the brake booster was hung up,
not allowing the brake pedal to come back.

OX

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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 08:08:37 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brake pedal not returning

Didn't see the original post, but this happened to me on my 78 Bronco
and it turned out to be the piston inside the brake booster was hung up,
not allowing the brake pedal to come back.

OX


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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 07:37:46 -0500
From: "Nils Gore"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Question

I don't know about different P/S gear boxes, but there is a difference
between steering columns for automatic transmissions and standard shift.

The "standard shift/manual steering" steering column is a few inches longer
than the "standard shift/power steering" steering column. (At least that's
the case in 73's).

This may complicate your search a bit if you have standard transmission..

>
>Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 21:03:50 -0400
>From: "Ken Schneider"
>Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Question
>
>Speaking of P/S questions, is there a difference in column lenght between
>the different p/s gear boxes used? I have a 68 F-100 and it has a Bendix
>box. All I can find are Ford gear boxes in trucks at the junk yards.
Will
>a column work from one of those?
>
>Ken Schneider
>


Nils Gore

'73 F100, 302
"64 F100, (to be determined...)
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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 08:42:37 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - to much oil pressure??/carter AFB vac ports

Howdy

Fired up the bronc's 351M yesterday after installing carter AFB/edlb
performer, high volume oil pump and new chain and it seems I am getting
almost 90 PSI pressure at high idle when cold. Is there such a thing as
too much oil pressure? Also, is there a specific port for vac advance
that should be used on a carter AFB? Which port should I use for PCV?

OX

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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 07:48:51 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - What did Explorer mean in '69?

First, thanks for all the help with my power-steering question. I have not
had a chance to do anything with the info, but it was most helpful. I may
have to revisit this topic. I do have some other questions about my truck
given that I am new to these vehicles. To recap it's specs, '69 F-100
long-bed styleside, FE-block, C6 trans, power-steering.
The questions:
1. The truck carries the "Explorer" badge on the glove box (appears
original) and the "Custom Cab" logos behind the doors. What were the
specific features of the Explorer package, and does Custom Cab indicate
certain features, or was it a generic term for Ford F-series trucks?
2. I have looked at info about converting to front disc brakes, and will
probably do this in the future. The truck apparently used to have power
brakes, but the booster was removed and converted back to manual. I would
like to go back to power brakes. What years brake-boosters/master cylinders
would be a bolt-in swap? I am wondering if when I find a donor truck for the
disc-swap, can I use it's booster? Any tips or feedback on either of these
tasks?

3. Are there any particular "wierd-isms" to the '69 model I should be aware
of?

Thanks in advance

Jim Elliott
Nashville, TN



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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 08:10:42 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Different types of Underdash A/C'???

>Group,
>maybe someone can help me..I just found 2 trucks 1-67 and 1 71-
>that have 2 differnt types of under dash A/C????the 71's engulfs the
>whole glove box and has a small storage area on the bottom which has
>also a small magnetic door to close it...the 67 does not go into the
>glove box ....Is one an aftermarket??or dealer installed???The A/C
>lines also go through the firewall at different areas the 71 go
> through the middle of the firewall(truck is a 6 cylinder do the lines
>run the same for an eight??) and the 67 a/c lines run down below
>the heat hoses...Which one would be better to add to my 68?????I also
>noticed the 71 has A/c controls in with the heater controls the 67
>doesnt??
>Sorry its so long...I'm just shocked to find 2 trucks here in PA with
>Air....
>
Sounds to me like the '71 has factory a/c, the '67 has dealer-added. If
you don't specifically want the factory setup, the dealer-added package
will be easier to adapt to your truck. Is the '67 an ARA unit? I have one
on my '68. This was a fairly popular brand aftermarket a/c unit of the day.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 9:54:58 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:Overheating

Since putting the A/C components on my truck, '68 F100, I've been running
really Hot. I had parked it till this weekend. This past weekend I put on
new radiator hoses, fan shroud, 180 d thermostat and of course fresh
anti-freeze. My truck ran a cooler but still a little warm the first time I
drove
it. It got up about 210 and hung out there till I got her home. I was
running
on the Interstate about 70mph. The outside temp was around 97 to 98.
A real hot day! I burped the system this morning, Monday, and got some
air out and put more anti-freeze in. As I drove to work this morning the
engine temp barely went above 180. Of course the outside temp was
only at 75. I'll be interested in seeing if she runs warmer this afternoon.
I only have a 5 bladed fan on her. I'm currently looking for a 7 or 9 with
a clutch. If I can't find one I will most likely convert her to electric,
but
so far so good.

-Ted
'68 F100
______________
I havn't talked about mine yet, Starts to get hot above 75mhp. It doesn't
overheat just gets to about 200 and stays there, if I hit 85 it will go a
little over 200 (210 about's) and stay there. Outside temp in the high 70's
low 80's.
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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 10:08:48 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - A/C pulley

I have recently put an A/C on my truck. I have one problem with
completing all the work necessary to make the A/C operational,
other than the cooling problem I've been having. The old idler
pulley that was on the truck has a bad bearing. I've looked
around and found other pulleys but not the same type as mine.
Mine has a single bolt the goes through the A/C compressor
bracet just above the water pump/fan pulley. The the shaft
that the pulley bolts to is offset to the bolt hole that goes through
the A/C compressor bracket. This is so the belt tension can be
adjusted. I need to either find a new pulley that fits my application
or change the way everything mounts to a newer type system.
If I use the new type system though, the pulleys don't line up. I
would prefer to use my bracket since it is original to the truck and
just replace the pulley or have new bearings pressed into the
pulley. If anyone can help on the type bearings that the pulley
requires or has one of these pulleys that they can part with, I'd
appreciate it. My bracket stretches from a bolt located behind
the passenger side of the fan pulley and stretches across the
top of the engine to the power steering mounts. The compressor
sits horizontally with about a 10 degree slope upwards. I don't
know if this bracket is unique to the '68 F-100 model or not. At some
point my truck had A/C and I'm using that bracket. I don't know it is a
factory A/C bracket (I doubt it) or a dealer installed bracket (I believe)
or not. Again, HELP!!!

-Ted
'68 F100 soon with A/C with your help!
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 07:59:15 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 57-63 (?) 8' "Style" Side Bed Needed

>> I believe this bed was used from 57-63, it is the *really ugly* 8 foot
>> slab sided one, with a step-side style tailgate that has latches and
>> chains that rattle around. I still want it because I think ugly makes
>> the truck look tough. I have only seen 2 around here but they were
>> unfortunately for me both installed on running trucks.
>>
>> I am in Northern California.
>>
>> Birken

>I remember seeing one in a small time junk yard in the next town up but
>that was about 2 years ago and I haven't been back since. If I get up
>that way I will take a look. If Steve D. can get to Pick N Pull, it
>seems they always have something old in there.
>--
>Don Grossman


Huh? Did I hear my name mentioned?
Actually, I'm gonna goto Pick'n'pull in Windsor tomorrow or tuesday
and grab a steering box for my girlfriends Galaxy.

So this box You want is just a 8' styleside bed, but it's got the
"latches and rattling chains" style tailgate? Hmmm, dunno that I've
ever seen one of those before. I'll look while I'm at the yard...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/
'71 F100 flairside, FE390/T-18.
"The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it."
-- Oscar Wilde

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 11:14:03 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - to much oil pressure??/carter AFB vac ports

can't help with the AFB, but yes, too much oil pressure is no good - wasted
power, gas, and maybe even parts like oil pump shaft. i imagine that it
will go down as the pump breaks in though. see if it falls by itself after
some running time is what i would do. they can be adjusted but i never had
to do one.

sleddog

- ----------
From: luxjo thecore.com[SMTP:luxjo thecore.com]
Sent: Monday, June 29, 1998 8:42 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - to much oil pressure??/carter AFB vac ports

Howdy

Fired up the bronc's 351M yesterday after installing carter AFB/edlb
performer, high volume oil pump and new chain and it seems I am getting
almost 90 PSI pressure at high idle when cold. Is there such a thing as
too much oil pressure? Also, is there a specific port for vac advance
that should be used on a carter AFB? Which port should I use for PCV?

OX

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 08:43:51 PDT
From: "Jay Branscome"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Branscome - Overheating

Never had a problem with it yet. Even this 100+ degree weather we're
having down here.

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 09:27:21 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 57-63 (?) 8' "Style" Side Bed Needed

sdelanty sonic.net wrote:

> Huh? Did I hear my name mentioned?
> Actually, I'm gonna goto Pick'n'pull in Windsor tomorrow or tuesday
> and grab a steering box for my girlfriends Galaxy.
>
> So this box You want is just a 8' styleside bed, but it's got the
> "latches and rattling chains" style tailgate? Hmmm, dunno that I've
> ever seen one of those before. I'll look while I'm at the yard...
>
> Steve

I knew you were going ;)

It's the box that doesn't match any of the 61-66 body lines at all anywhere,
and kind of goes with the 57-60 cab. When you see it you will know.

I wish I could go ......

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 09:59:04 PDT
From: "Jay Branscome"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ugly Bed?

UGLY!

No Way. I think the slab sides on the 64-66 make the whole truck look
good. The step sides for those years seem too short to me.

>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ugly Bed?
>Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 15:29:04 -0500
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>
>>I believe this bed was used from 57-63, it is the *really ugly* 8 foot
>>slab sided one, with a step-side style tailgate that has latches and
>>chains that rattle around. I still want it because I think ugly makes
>>the truck look tough. I have only seen 2 around here but they were
>>unfortunately for me both installed on running trucks.
>
>Whatchu callin' ugly???? I have one on my '65 F250 4X4 and I agree with
you,
>it looks tough!
>Come on over to my Back Porch
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
>Ballinger
>ballingr ldd.net
>
>== FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 11:57:24 -0500
From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360 Rebuild

I am a new subscriber about to embark on my first engine rebuild. The
victim (er, I mean "patient") is a '73 F100 with a 360. This is a work
truck, not competitive, but who sez work trucks must be slow? Am running
an Edelbrock intake and 4bbl.
Your opinions, please: should I rebuild the 360 as is, rebuild it
using a 390 reciprocating assembly (I'm told the rest is the same), or
junk the 360 short block and start fresh with a 390?
Thanx! lordjanusz

'94 F150 (300ci) '73 F100 (360ci) '97 Saturn (wife's car)

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 13:10:42 EDT
From: SuperMagot aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Overheating, electric Fans

I have seen alot of posts lately on overheating etc. I thought I might
provide some info on some experimenting I have been doing lately with my
truck.

Background info:
70 1/2 2WD 460/C-6 RV Cam, headers, electronic etc, Holley Carb, Edelbroke
Manifold, 3 core radiator, stock water pump.

I took off the mechanical fan (i had no fan shroud, and the truck tended to
run warm on 90 degree+ days, [warm being 190-200 degrees]).

I put on two electrical fans, one primary fan and one smaller one designed for
supplmentary cooling. I used a 30 amp relay and a thermostat set for about
190 degrees, and a manual cut-off switch

Conclusions I have drawn so far:
Engine warms up faster
About a 10-15 HP gain in reduced drag (seems like a lot, but it was very
noticable!!)
With the fans shut off manually, engine would get hot pretty quick. When I
allowed the fans to come on, the temp would drop down to about 190 in a few
minutes and stay there.

I have run it on hot days (about 95 degrees), but I have not tried any trailer
pulling or anything, which I do occasionaly.

Until I do some pulling, or dragging (which I will do this wednesday) I wont
know how well these fans work under tough conditions, but so far, I am happy
with it.

If you want more info, please e-mail me privately:
supermagot aol.com

Thanks everybody for all the good info!

- - Mike






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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 14:59:46 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - free advice, our main product

Jerry,
Sounds like a good solution. Label the switches. By the way, cab tanks were
eliminated because you are sitting on a bomb, literally.

Chris and Genesis (now I'm confused),
Your overheating problems sound like my 351M all of the time, but only with
the AC running and 98+ temps outside (quite common this summer). I have a
160 degree t-stat that I run year round. We've had this t-stat discussion
before, but in your case, if you go to 195, you are only going to aggravate
your problem, because you have a circulation restriction (could even be a
stuck thermostat). You will force the engine to run hotter, giving you less
room to the point of overheating. Ethylene glycol anti-freeze mixed 50-50
with distilled water gives the best cooling performance and the best freeze
protection. One thing I haven't seen mentioned on overheating: If your
hoses are old or ruined, they can collapse.

Everyone in general:
If you are going to be taking a bunch of coil springs in and out, buy some
spring compressors. They don't cost that much and they will save you a lot
of cussing when your jacks won't raise up far enough or you break a brake
hose. It took me about 90 minutes on the first side and about 30 minutes on
the second side.

Jim,
Regarding that big nut: Lots of WD-40 and a good 12 inch Crescent wrench
combined with patience and perseverence.

I'm still way behind on the e-mail cycle.

- -John

jmlagron tenet.edu
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI AOD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (When speed counts, count on Macintosh)
1979 MC under restoration (my son is rebellious, but he loves old cars!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 17:42:26 -0400
From: "Rogers"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Whiter/Brighter - Relay-Lowering

The article on whiter brights on the FTE homepage is excellent, except it
does not specify which relay is used. I just came back from Murrays Parts
and though helpful, the counterperson pulled out every relay BUT one like
the "Bosch" type Steve Delanty described.
Could anyone provide me with a part number/manufacturer for the relay?

On the other side of the vehicle, (Underside) has anyone out there lowered
a 1970 F100. What is the best way? Who are some suppliers of componentry?

Regards,
Rogers B. Morris, Jr..
rbmii ....


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