61-79-list-digest Friday, June 26 1998 Volume 02 : Number 356



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - ID Numbers for a '65 F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - ID Numbers for a '65 F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cool Screen Saver
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cool Screen Saver
Re: FTE 61-79 - ID Numbers for a '65 F100
FTE 61-79 - Re:Merc-O-Matic
FTE 61-79 - FE cams and me
Re: FTE 61-79 - '78 F-150 Monster for sale
FTE 61-79 - Re: Screen Saver
FTE 61-79 - Re: Running Hot
Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating
FTE 61-79 - Rear end chunk swap
FTE 61-79 - RE:Brake pedal not returning all the way
FTE 61-79 - Restoration
RE: FTE 61-79 - Want to add A/C
FTE 61-79 - Oil Drain Valve
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Merc-O-Matic
Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating
FTE 61-79 - brake pedal not returning
Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating
Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating
FTE 61-79 - Brakes. 9" Rears
FTE 61-79 - Branscome - Overheating
Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating
FTE 61-79 - VIN # location
Re: FTE 61-79 - VIN # location
FTE 61-79 - Running hot
FTE 61-79 - e-mail, eze-outs, fuel gauges, and air conditioners

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Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 19:47:13 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ID Numbers for a '65 F100

Jeff wrote:

> Okay guy's, I know this gets old but I"m at somwhat of a loss. I
> have a 1965 F-100 (at least according to the title). Odd thing is
> that some of the parts arn't the "right year" and by all indications are
>
> original. I hope someone out there can help me. The numbers on
> the door tag are as follows:
>
> F10JN674890
>
> 115F F100 281 A 09
>
> 5000 129 4000 22
>
>

F10= F100
J=243 straight 6
N= Norfolk, VA plant
674890= consecutive build number April, 65

115=wheel base
F= color code Which should be blue but is not listed for that year

F100= just the model
281= (sticking neck out here) 2=blue interior 81=chassis cab
A= 3speed manual transmission
09= 3.7:1 rear end gears (rare gear ratio)

5000= G.V.W.R

129= horse power rating

4000= rpm for horse power rating

22= turns up a DSO of Charlotte

> Also, where else on the truck should I look for numbers??? Any and ALL
> help is greatly appreciated!!!
>
> Jeff
>
> --
> Jeffrey S. Miller
> 3rd Degree Black Belt
> Chief Instructor
> Winged Dragon Karate Club
> Email: sifu erols.com
> Website: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~SifuJeff/index.html
>
> == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html


- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 19:50:46 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ID Numbers for a '65 F100

Dennis Pearson wrote:

> Thanks for your message at 05:22 PM 6/25/98 -0400, Jeff. Your message was:
> >
> >Also, where else on the truck should I look for numbers??? Any and ALL
> >help is greatly appreciated!!!
> >
> >Jeff
> Folklore has it that there are numbers stamped on the frame on the
> passenger side just ahead of the cab. Good luck.
> I have never been able to find them.
>

I have done a little more digging in that area, mostly on 4x4's. At some
point Ford moved the vin on the frame under the cab. I noticed that on a 77
F150 I was working on. With that I checked a 67-72 3/4 ton 4x and the vin
was up under the cab also. That was a real pain, lots of dirt and rust and
then get a little mirror up there to look on the frame. I suspect that with
the 65 and new truck the vin was placed under the cab.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 20:19:09 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating

>I havn't talked about mine yet, Starts to get hot above 75mhp. It doesn't
>overheat just gets to about 200 and stays there, if I hit 85 it will go a
>little over 200 (210 about's) and stay there. Outside temp in the high 70's
>low 80's.
>
>Laters
>
>Don Grossman


So what's wrong with 200-210? What's water boil at with a 14 lb rad cap?
240? Higher? I can't seem to find that little chart..

My FE is set up to run at about 200. I run a 195F thermostat, and the
cooling fans come on about 205 and off again below 200.
On my stock temp gauge 200 is about dead center in the "NORMAL" band...

Is there any pinging or loss of power with Yours when the temp is up?
If the cooling system is pressure tight and You've got a 14lb cap, I
wouldn't worry a bit about temps as high as 215 unless the motor is
exhibiting unhappy symptoms.
My opinion, YMMV...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/
'71 F100 flairside, FE390/T-18.
"The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it."
-- Oscar Wilde

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Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 22:21:45 -0500
From: Brett McCoy
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cool Screen Saver

Sounds like we have a few interested people. For those who would like
their truck in the screen saver could you please pick out your favorite
photo and email it to me? Here is what I would like.

Size: 640X480 up to 800X600 I will scale it from there
Well centered and high contrast clear scans work best.
Try to have a clean background with very little clutter. (looks better)
No people in the photos. (this is after all about our trucks)

I will pick six to ten photos and include them in the first edition. I
don't want the file size or the performance to suffer to much. Each
photo will have a different transitional effect. Will include some kind
of plug for the FTE web site. If I don't get enough photos via email I
will put it together with what I have. Silence equals consensus, so if
you don't want your truck "featured" speak up. Thanks and I will keep
you posted as I go.
Sound good to you Ken?

- -B
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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 00:11:48 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cool Screen Saver

At 10:21 PM 6/25/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Sounds like we have a few interested people. For those who would like
>their truck in the screen saver could you please pick out your favorite
>photo and email it to me? Here is what I would like.
>
>Size: 640X480 up to 800X600 I will scale it from there
>Well centered and high contrast clear scans work best.
>Try to have a clean background with very little clutter. (looks better)
>No people in the photos. (this is after all about our trucks)
>
>I will pick six to ten photos and include them in the first edition. I
>don't want the file size or the performance to suffer to much. Each
>photo will have a different transitional effect. Will include some kind
>of plug for the FTE web site. If I don't get enough photos via email I
>will put it together with what I have. Silence equals consensus, so if
>you don't want your truck "featured" speak up. Thanks and I will keep
>you posted as I go.
>Sound good to you Ken?
>
>-B

Unfortunately, it can't work that way. Well over half the pictorial
submissions are not from list members but from web site visitors who
want to show off their trucks. This is why I put "Do not redisplay
these pictures without prior consent from the owners!" on the pictorial
index pages. These people will never see your posting. Also, what about
the members who are on the other lists but not this one? They'll never
see your posting either. It would be best if you contacted the owners.
I put their email addresses on the pictorial. There are a few without
email addresses but they are a small minority. We had some problems last
fall with a commercial site taking pictures from our pictorial without
permission and its a touchy issue. Some of the members involved didn't
mind, but some did. Hope this doesn't cause you too much extra work.

Regards,
Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com
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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 00:05:48 -0500
From: "Nils Gore"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ID Numbers for a '65 F100

The Ford Pickup Red Book offers the following about your truck:

F10=F100
J=243 cid I-6 1bbl engine
N=Norfolk, VA assembly plant
674890=sequential production number, April 1965

I heard the same thing about a VIN on the passenger side frame, but sure
haven't been able to find it on my 64 F100.

I just went through the same thing on mine, with original looking parts
that didn't match up with what I knew for 1964. The explanation that made
the most sense to me is that Ford actually started introducing some of next
year's parts late in this year's production run. April doesn't seem to be
particularly late, but who knows?


>Okay guy's, I know this gets old but I"m at somwhat of a loss. I
>have a 1965 F-100 (at least according to the title). Odd thing is
>that some of the parts arn't the "right year" and by all indications are
>
>original. I hope someone out there can help me. The numbers on
>the door tag are as follows:
>
> F10JN674890
>
> 115F F100 281 A 09
>
> 5000 129 4000 22
>
> Folklore has it that there are numbers stamped on the frame on the
>passenger side just ahead of the cab. Good luck.
>I have never been able to find them.


Nils Gore

'73 F100, 302
"64 F100, (to be determined...)
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Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 23:57:03 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:Merc-O-Matic

>>Actually the Cruise o matic(Merc o Matic) is the forerunner to the famous
>>C-6. Lots of commonality, but the C-6 is a better transmission. If the
>>Cruise o matic is in working order and a front seal/rear seal and filter
>>change is all it needs, I would use it until it gave up completely and then
>>look around for a C-6 FE specific.

I never could get the Cruise-O-Matic to work very well in my '66 390 4bbl
Galaxie(over 20 yrs ago,another "wish I had it now"). For some reason it
would wouldn't shift into high until 80 mph, and if you dropped under that
it would downshift back to second. I switched the trans out(heaviest trans
made) and it shifted good for a while then went back to it's evil ways. I
loved that car on gravel roads. My dad had a '66 wagon with a 390 and
Cruise-o-Matic that did the same thing. Shifted to second pretty as you
please, but third was way beyond Ma sceaming "Slow this G*dd*mn thing down!"
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 00:07:39 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE cams and me

>Bill Balinger,
>I've been gone for a week or so and see by the posts that some
>discussion was had on our #2106 cam timing question. I don't have a way
>to do all of the fancy measuring that you guys were talkin' about, nor
>am I sure that I would know how if I did. What did you decide to do with
>your cam? leave it alone or what?
>Thanks,
>Tom
>Wonderin' in Reno,NV
>

The general concensus was that if it's running good don't worry about it,
but naturally, I'm not completely satisfied. I'd have to pull the timing
cover and retime it and restab the distributor to eliminate them as
suspects. This is a little work on a '65 4X4, since it uses a front mount
instead of side mountig pads and crossmember. I'll probably have to live
with it for now.
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net

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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 01:51:13 -0400
From: dgerow coal.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '78 F-150 Monster for sale

> > For Sale:
> >
> > 1978 Ford F-150 Custom
> > Blue Paint, custom interior, padded Flareside bed
> > 4" body lift
> > 3" suspension lift
> > 35" BRG tires
> > American Racing Rims
> > 460 cid - built up, Competition Cam, ported, polished
> > Edlebrock 750 cfm carb
> > C6 auto Tranny
> > Dana 44 front axle, Ford 9" rear.
> > Needs minor work, some brake work and some TLC
> > Need money for college...not time to fix.
> > Runs and drives.
> > I really need to find this a good home.
> >
> > First $2500 takes it, firm.
> > email: dgerow stonehill.edu
> > phone (508) 565-4015
>
>

Ahhhhhhh! OK, ok so I messed up. I am trying to figure out what I have
here anyway. I got a 78 frame and cab, with a 73 nose and bed, with a 73
460 from a Lincoln, I think. I apologize for the suspension mistake and
you know what, I am not sure as to most of you other requests because I
did not build the truck. All I know is I need to sell it so I can
graduate from college. That tuition bill is steadily approaching. The
truck used to have 44" tractor tires on it and was driven in the Tough
Truck Competitions at Foxboro Stadium. It was then taken apart and
reconstructed to be street legal. I really wish I could keep it and get
in to it, but things deem that I graduate with a degree to get to all that
later. I apologize if my knowledge is not up to par. I figured this was
a good place to start gleaning what I could and perhaps sell my truck. If
anyone is interested let me know and I will do my best answering their
quetions. Thanks all.

> I think you need to define Ford 9" and then the term "All 3/4 ton
> running gear". I personally have never seen a 9" used in 3/4 ton
> applications. How are the wheel flanges? Does it use a semi floating
> axle or has it been converted to full floating hubs? What about the
> axle tubes themselves? Have they been upgraded for extra load
> capacity?
>
> Did you convert the front suspension also? What size leaf springs did
> you replace the coils with? Was it a frame swap with a 1 ton truck?
>
> Thanks
> --
> Don Grossman
> duckdon pacific.net
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon
>
> 63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.
>
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- --
- ---------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
WSHL General Manager
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://wwww.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ---------------------------------


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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 01:08:17 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Screen Saver

> So I borrowed a few pics from
> >the pictorial. The result so far is pretty good. The only problems now
> >are, is there a demand for it from the list etc. and do any of you mind
> >me using the pics on the web site?

You can use mine too.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 01:13:20 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Running Hot

> Not enough radiator - insufficient heat transfer - or not enough air being
> pulled/pushed through the radiator!!!!.
>
> Is there a build up in the "flues" in the radiator??? May need "rodding"
> to clean them out.
>
> Is your shroud correct??? Is your fan sufficient???
>
> T'stat not fully opening???(restricts flow).
>
> All I can think of at the moment.

Another possibility is pump cavitation. If it is spinning higher than it
is designed to do for extended periods, the flow can stall. Also if the
pumping rate is too fast(due to rpm level),the water will run by the hot
spots and not carry off any heat.

A higher volume with a slower velocity pump could be the answer, but be
careful, a racing water pump is tuned to run up high and may not have
the low-speed capability for traffic. Ditto for underdrive pulleys. The
idea is to select a cooling system tuned to what you do the most, i.e.,
get it warmed up quickly and let you get home on a hot day. If you're
racing then it needs to be tuned to flow at the right rate for the
thermal carryoff required and no more.

You might vary your speed and note the consistant place where and under
what conditions your problem begins. This will give you some insight to
what needs to be done. An engine turning 3000 rpms is a lot to ask to
keep cool on a 100 d day anyway.




- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 23:47:11 PDT
From: "Jay Branscome"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating

Mines the same way doesnt get hot till I shut it off. Then the temp
guage goes up. But as soon as I start it it's back to normal. This is
only after I have hit the 70's and 80 on the higways in 100 degree Texas
heat.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 06:26:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear end chunk swap

So if you can find a chunk that has the correct gear that your looking
for , say 3.50, then all you have to do is swap it? This really sounds
simple is it?

Duke's
Fine 69
F-100
302

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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 8:20:27 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:Brake pedal not returning all the way

John,

I don't know much about '77's but I went out and looked at
my brake setup (on a '68) and have a pretty hefty return
spring that goes from the pedal to a piece of solid metal
under the dash. If you have good braking action and
seem to have no other braking ailments, I would check
to see if you have a return spring.

Just a thought,

-Ted
'68 F100
___________

John_Waldeck idx.com wrote:

Hello,
I just bought a '77 150 supercab 3 on tree w/a 6.
I'm kinda fixing it up and one weird thing is the brake
pedal does not "come back" up all of the way after I stop pressing
on the pedal. I have to pull the pedal back w/the top
of my shoe or the brake light stays on and just a little pressure
remains on the pads (I've tested it while coasting).
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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:54:31 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Restoration

Ken/Peggy:

I know you're in the midst of a restoration project for your "Baby". Could
you list some of the pieces you are in need of for your project, that you
aren't having too much luck on finding. It doesn't matter if it is NOS or
salvage yard pieces, just a list. Lots of us go "Shopping" from time to
time and I think we might "spot" some of the things you may want. There
may also be some tools you need to do a certain job or jobs that you could
list. I think most of on the list would like to help you get your "Baby"
back on the road and we might could help by spotting some of the "stuff"
you might be in need of.
It is a '70 or '71 f100, I believe.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:02:14 -0500
From: "Archie J. Cleckler"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Want to add A/C

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of JJJJJGRANT aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 1998 10:24 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Want to add A/C
>
>
> i'm not sure where you're at but i have two trucks 69 f100's for
> sale and both
> of them has air,one of them has a real good body but its missing
> the engine.it
> also has power steering,c6 trans,good grille,tailgate, 650.00 for
> this one.

Jeff,

I am behind in my e-mail and just read your post to the trucks list. I'm
sure that at this price your truck is gone by now; however, if it is not I
am interested. I live in Snead, Al.

Will the air-conditioning system fit a '78 F-series? If not I am still
interested in the truck. I have a built 400 and am building a 460, but I
would rather use the truck as an organ donor. With a nice 400 c.i.d. in it
... who knows?

Thanks in advance

I am anxiously awaiting your reply,
Archie Cleckler A.K.A. "The Big-A"
Snead, Al.

acleck msn.com


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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:35:19 -0500
From: "Don Yerhot"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil Drain Valve

FYI. I was looking through my new Summit catalog last night and noticed
that they sell oil drain valves, brand name is Fumoto, for $19.99. It
looks like it's well made, the valve locks so it won't come open, and
has a nipple that you can put a hose on to drain the oil away from the
engine. I know there was some discussion recently about what a PITA it
can be to drain the oil on certain trucks, without getting oil on
everything. I know mine sure is a pain, I've running a 351w with a car
front sump pan and no matter how hard I try, I always seem to get some
oil on the front crossmember. They also sell Redline products, have
Water Wetter for $7.95 for a 12 oz. bottle. (BTW, I don't work for
Summit)
I also want to thank Gary for his advice on replacing the cork intake
gaskets with RTV.
I did it on mine, hasn't leaked a drop yet. You had also mentioned to be
very careful when installing the intake that everything get lined up
good. I bought 4 5" bolts the same size as the intake bolts, (5/16 in my
case), cut the ends off, screwed them in the corner holes, then put my
intake on using these as quides. The intake slid right in right where it
should go. then I unscrewed my homemade studs and replaced with the
regular bolts.

Don
65 F250/351w/435np

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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 06:44:08 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:Merc-O-Matic

Thanks for your message at 11:57 PM 6/25/98 -0500, William L Ballinger.
Your message was:
>I never could get the Cruise-O-Matic to work very well in my '66 390 4bbl
>Galaxie(over 20 yrs ago,another "wish I had it now"). For some reason it
>would wouldn't shift into high until 80 mph, and if you dropped under that
>it would downshift back to second. I switched the trans out(heaviest trans
>made) and it shifted good for a while then went back to it's evil ways. I
>loved that car on gravel roads. My dad had a '66 wagon with a 390 and
>Cruise-o-Matic that did the same thing. Shifted to second pretty as you
>please, but third was way beyond Ma sceaming "Slow this G*dd*mn thing
down!"
>Come on over to my Back Porch

I know this is sort of silly trying to solve a problem 20 years old in a
vehicle you don't even have, but...
I'm trying to figure this logically (usually my downfall). If you floor a
Cruise-o and hold it floored from take-off, it will finally shift into
third somewhere in the 75-80 mph range because the kickdown linkage from
the carb is engaged. Although it seems odd that two vehicles in the same
family would do the same thing, I wonder if the linage somehow "got" out of
adjustment. I have had 3 or 4 Cruise-o-matics and have to admit I never
had that problem. I loved the tranny in the snow, being able to take off
slowly in second...

This is an FTE discussion because I am seriously trying to figure out if I
should bother with this tranny/410(I definitely want the 410) combo in my
"other" 62 pickup...
1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1970 Marquis 429
1973 Mustang 302 (tired)
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
!962 Unibody short box (shell)traded to Levi--
It's gonna be a convertible!
1990 Aerostar
1981 Rabbit Convertible (How did that get in here?)
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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 07:13:53 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating

sdelanty sonic.net wrote:

> So what's wrong with 200-210? What's water boil at with a 14 lb rad cap?
> 240? Higher? I can't seem to find that little chart..
>
> My FE is set up to run at about 200. I run a 195F thermostat, and the
> cooling fans come on about 205 and off again below 200.
> On my stock temp gauge 200 is about dead center in the "NORMAL" band...
>
> Is there any pinging or loss of power with Yours when the temp is up?
> If the cooling system is pressure tight and You've got a 14lb cap, I
> wouldn't worry a bit about temps as high as 215 unless the motor is
> exhibiting unhappy symptoms.
> My opinion, YMMV...

There is no real change in performance or "unhappy symptoms" but it just looked
a little weird running the same +/- from 5-65 mph and then going up after 70. I
used to run a 195 thermostat and went to a 180 to see if that would change
anything, nope.

I do have a 16lb cap so I should be safe there. I might check the coolant
mixture here soon to see if it's close.

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 07:29:06 -0700
From: John_Waldeck idx.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - brake pedal not returning

To: 61-79-list
George S:

Thanks for the info...will try this weekend....



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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:41:21 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating

>I do have a 16lb cap so I should be safe there. I might check the coolant
>mixture here soon to see if it's close.
>
>Don Grossman

Yeah, make sure there's not too much anti-freeze in it...
Glycol anti-freeze is a much poorer cunductor of heat than plain water,
and using a lot of anti-freeze substantially *reduces* the cooling
capacity of the system. Glycol coolant raises the boiling temp slightly
but not very much. Most of the gain in boiling temp comes from using a
good pressure cap.
You should run at least a small amount of anti-freeze to provide
corrosion protection and water pump lubrication, but if You live in
an area where freezing is not a problem there's no reason to run more
than 20-25% glycol coolant, and more than that is working against You.

My personal favorite coolant soup these days is about 80% water, not
more than 20% glycol anti-freeze, and a 12oz bottle of Water Wetter.
I'm a believer in the Water Wetter. It's good stuff...

Keep the glycol anti-freeze to a minimum!

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/
'71 F100 flairside, FE390/T-18.
"The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it."
-- Oscar Wilde

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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:13:52 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating

OK a couple of things here, first someone please explain how anything, much
less antifreeze can "lubricate" a sealed bearing of the type used in water
pumps.

Second, 80-20 in California is fine year 'round and probably good for
summer just about everywhere but Steve is right, don't take it to the
midwest or northern states for the winter! I speak from experience here.

Sorry Steve just thought I better emphasize that disclaimer.

- ----------
> From: sdelanty sonic.net
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating
> Date: Friday, June 26, 1998 8:41 AM
>
> You should run at least a small amount of anti-freeze to provide
> corrosion protection and water pump lubrication, but if You live in
> an area where freezing is not a problem there's no reason to run more
> than 20-25% glycol coolant, and more than that is working against You.
>
> My personal favorite coolant soup these days is about 80% water, not
> more than 20% glycol anti-freeze, and a 12oz bottle of Water Wetter.
> I'm a believer in the Water Wetter. It's good stuff...
>

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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:53:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brakes. 9" Rears

Hey folks. I've been following the digests and have a few things
to say regarding some previous posts.

1) Brake pedal not returning:
I have the same problem on my 75 F100 (power disc). The truck just
developed this problem after being parked for a while, so it can't
~possibly~ be caused by the actuating rod being out of adjustment as
was suggested. My guess is that the springs INSIDE the master cylinder
are weak and won't return correctly, or the insides are just gooked
up. Will let you know what happens whne I change the master cylinder :)

2) 9" rear spline counts:
I have changed my pumpkin it the past and this is what I learned about
spline counts in truck applications:
67-72: 28 spline
73-79: 31 spline
I bought a 67 3.50 geared pumpkin and then found out it wouldn't fit
my 75, so I had my machinist take the 2 pumpkins and create a 3.50
geared 31 spline unit. Cost me $50. Some say ~maybe~ if I had used the
67-72 axles it would have worked out but I don't know; I didn't have
the 67 axles to try it.

75 F100 2WD 360/C6
68 Fairlane Wagon 351W/FMX
Plus some ~other~ stuff





==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 12:06:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Branscome - Overheating

Jay,
Its not unusual for the temp gauge to increase when you shot off the
motor. The cooling system is not longer functioning, but there is still a lot
of heat in the engine that doesn't immediately go away.

As long as your coolant doesn't start boiling over, I think your ok.

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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:16:54 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overheating

>OK a couple of things here, first someone please explain how anything, much
>less antifreeze can "lubricate" a sealed bearing of the type used in water
>pumps.

That's right. It's a sealed bearing.
And the inner seal gets it's lips lubed by coolant...
If the coolant has no lubricating properties then the inner seal wears
quickly and then water gets past it and into the bearings. )-:
Most pumps have a "weep hole" that drains any coolant that gets past
the first seal, so it can't contaminate the bearings. It's normal for
tiny amounts of coolant to get past the seal and exit out the hole,
but once You get a noticable drip then that inner seal is gonzo.
Gotta have a little lube to keep the seal healthy.

>Second, 80-20 in California is fine year 'round and probably good for
>summer just about everywhere but Steve is right, don't take it to the
>midwest or northern states for the winter! I speak from experience here.

Absolutely, if You live where You get freezing temps then You need to
use appropriate coolant mix to prevent freeze damage!
But during the summer keep the glycol content to a minimum to enhance
cooling...
I guess I should have added that disclaimer, but I figured the comment was
mostly directed at Don, and since he only lives a few miles from me
I pretty well know what the weather is like in his area. (-:

Use enough glycol to prevent freezing, but keep the concentration as
low as possible during summer.

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/
'71 F100 flairside, FE390/T-18.
"The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it."
-- Oscar Wilde

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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 13:19:02 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - VIN # location

Dennis P writes: >>Folklore has it that there are numbers stamped on the
frame on the passenger side just ahead of the cab. Good luck.
I have never been able to find them.

I have several frames and chassis from '76 thru '79. They all have it
stamped on the very top of the passenger side frame rail. Some of them are
close to the front, right behind the shock location, and some of them are
much farther back, but all of them have it. It is not easy to locate when
it is one of those that happen to be farther back, because the floor of the
cab gets in the way. Have to use a mirrow, and sometimes I've had to rub
the frame top with a damp cloth (the moisture doesn't get down in the
groves of the #ing so it kinda highlights it).
Sand paper might work also (rub across the #'s and the metal becomes a
different shade than the groves again highlighting the #'s).

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:35:31 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - VIN # location

Thanks for your message at 01:19 PM 6/26/98 -0400, am14 chrysler.com. Your
message was:
>Dennis P writes: >>Folklore has it that there are numbers stamped on the
>frame on the passenger side just ahead of the cab. Good luck.
>I have never been able to find them.
>
>I have several frames and chassis from '76 thru '79. They all have it
>stamped on the very top of the passenger side frame rail. Some of them are
>close to the front, right behind the shock location, and some of them are
>much farther back, but all of them have it. It is not easy to locate when
>it is one of those that happen to be farther back, because the floor of the
>cab gets in the way. Have to use a mirrow, and sometimes I've had to rub
>the frame top with a damp cloth (the moisture doesn't get down in the
>groves of the #ing so it kinda highlights it).
>Sand paper might work also (rub across the #'s and the metal becomes a
>different shade than the groves again highlighting the #'s).
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>
I have tried on 3 62s. Maybe the older ones are different. Maybe the
gunk was so thick I just didn't get down far enough...I'll try again.
1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1970 Marquis 429
1973 Mustang 302 (tired)
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
!962 Unibody short box (shell)traded to Levi--
It's gonna be a convertible!
1990 Aerostar
1981 Rabbit Convertible (How did that get in here?)
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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 13:37:41 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Running hot

Don G writes:
75mhp. It doesn't overheat just gets to about 200 and stays there, if I
hit 85 it will go a little over 200 (210 about's) and stay there. Outside
temp in the high 70's low 80's.

Normally this would be a capacity problem. Either the radiator is too
small,or a flow restriction of the fluid. Partially clogged passages for
the water to circulate(this could also be a T'stat that doesn't completely
open, or a partially collapsing water hose on the bottom.)

I replaced the radiator in my daughters 2.5L D*dge Shadow for this exact
problem and it cured it. It needed "Rodding", but since it has plastic
ends on an aluminum core, I couldn't get any shop near me to touch it, so I
had no choice but to get a new one. I had to get it back on the road. I'm
seriously thinking about going into the radiator repair business when I
retire next year. I believe I can "fix" that radiator I pulled from her
car, and if I can, then why won't the rediator shops work on it????

Her car would get up to normal temp, and on an 85 degree day it would not
overheat if you didn't run the A/C. Above 85 degrees and over a course of
say 30 miles or so it would creep up to nearly the redline. If you did not
stop for a few minutes and let it cool, it would keep creeping until it
pegged. You could stop and let it fast idle and it would eventually come
down. (restricted flow in the radiator or insufficient heat transfer
because of build-up on the flues)

Azie


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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 13:20:16 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - e-mail, eze-outs, fuel gauges, and air conditioners

And I thought it was hard to keep up when I could download and read it all
each day. That's the trade off for summer vacation.

You probably have those manifold bolts taken care of long before now. For
future refernce, don't ever try an eze-out (we've spe;;ed this at least 5
different ways) on a siezed bolt piece: they break off every time. If you
can re-orient the hole so that you can soak it in WD40 or some other
suitable solvent, then an eze-out is an option. Just my $.02.

My 79 F150 LWB has factory dual tanks. The switch is located in the right
portion of the air conditioning control panel (factory air). It switches
both the tank and the fuel gauge together. My gauge works correctly with
the rear tank, but doesn't quite go to F when full on the front tank. Since
the truck came fom the Houston area, I always attributed the anomlay to
minor corrosion at some point in the front tank connections.

Extreme caution: Don't set up fuel tanks to free flow from one to the other....

---

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