Re: FTE 61-79 - Bronco Overheating on Interstate

61-79-list-digest Wednesday, June 24 1998 Volume 02 : Number 353

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Bronco Overheating on Interstate
FTE 61-79 - ref aux tanks
FTE 61-79 - camber spec for '71 F100 (final chapter)
FTE 61-79 - Bronco Overheating on Interstate
FTE 61-79 - Re: Under dash A/C
FTE 61-79 - 1979 Dana 60 front rear for sale...
FTE 61-79 - Re: 78 Bronco tailgate....
Re: FTE 61-79 - Axle shims
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1979 Dana 60 front rear for sale...
Re: FTE 61-79 - F100 Rear springs
FTE 61-79 - Re: Impact wrench
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1979 Dana 60 front rear for sale...
FTE 61-79 - Engine weight page.
FTE 61-79 - Brakes OK-Suspension shot?
FTE 61-79 - Price?
FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating on Interstate
Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes OK-Suspension shot?
FTE 61-79 - Cuba
FTE 61-79 - Cuba
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cuba
FTE 61-79 - History Lesson
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cuba
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating on Interstate
Re: FTE 61-79 - Running hot
Re: FTE 61-79 - History Lesson
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Impact wrench
Re: FTE 61-79 - Axle shims
Re: FTE 61-79 - camber spec for '71 F100 (final chapter)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Lift update
FTE 61-79 - RE: oil pressure (lack of)
Re: FTE 61-79 - History Lesson
Re: FTE 61-79 - History Lesson
Re: FTE 61-79 - History Lesson
Re: FTE 61-79 - camber spec for '71 F100 (final chapter)

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 20:19:49 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bronco Overheating on Interstate

At 02:16 PM 6/23/98 , you wrote:
>Hi Everyone,
>
>I've got a delimma and I'm up against the wall for time. I was going to
>drive my 79 Bronco to St. Louis from VA (700 miles) this week. Last
>week, it started overheating on interstate. I don't have a real temp
>gage, it's the factory gage. I normally run on the "N" in Normal. Then
>last week, I was on interstate traveling about 70mph (3k rpm) and it
>stayed on N for about 30 minutes and then all of a sudden it just
>started to rise! Didn't go past the "L" in normaL. But I know it was
>hot cause it was losing power and I heard some sparknock. I pulled off
>the road and let her cool down a little. On the way home, the same
>deal. Over the weekend, after replacing the thermostat, I put a metal
>thermometer in the radiator cap inlet and watched coolant temperature as
>it entered the radiator. After running on the highway for about 30
>minutes, the temperature was reading a steady 190f.

Try filling up at a different gas station, or drop in a can of octane
boost. If this brings your temp back down to normal, check your mechanical
and/or vacuum advance. Check your fuel pressure also. Check the color of
your plugs. If they are white like brand new, your running too lean - dirt
may have clogged a passage in the carb.

If you have a thermal fan clutch, it will turn no matter how hot the engine
gets, so just because it turned when it was hot doesn't mean it is bad.
The fan clutch will disengage at around 2000 RPMs - no matter how hot the
engine is. A non-thermal fan clutch is another story - I've never had one
of those.

Mike

Since you said it cooled down when you pulled off the road, it makes me
think it is timing and/or fuel related.
_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall

texas.net or mike

fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN PAGE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 22:08:49 -0400
From: "Bob"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ref aux tanks

>> Well, all of this talk about aux fuel tanks /snip/
>
>Seems to be a contagious problem, my valve seems to have gone bad in that
>the rear tank wants to drain into the front tank. I learned this when I
>came out from work and found I had disolved a big chunk of the parking lot
>when the front tank overflowed. Now i'm just using the front tank until I
>can get a new valve. Has anyone had any experience with the valve from JC
>Whitney??
>
>
>> I learned a few things through this experience...
>> 1) When the solenoid valve is "ON" the truck draws off the rear tank.
>> 2) Neat tip from the ford shop manual......when the solenoid is "ON"
a
>> metal paper clip will stick to the bottom of the solenoid.
>
>This is good, I knew mine was wired backwards, but wasn't sure to tell how
>it worked.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bob
>'79 F150 Extend Cab 400M
>'52 f1 flatty (currently broke)
>'76 Nova 350 (honest its stock, well amost)
>I refuse to own a car or truck with a computer!!
>
>

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 19:25:12 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - camber spec for '71 F100 (final chapter)

Well, I got that spring cutting/camber adjusting thing done last night.
Today I went out and got steel and materials for an upcoming job, so I
got to put about 120 miles on the truck. Later I went for a 30 mile fun
drive on some twisty hill roads Wow, the truck feels different...

Like Gary suggested, it takes a little more force to steer now. It's not
so noticable around town or when stopped/parking/etc, but it's noticable
during freeway lane changes and high speed/slow curve manuevers. It seems
to take a little more effort to get the truck to turn at speed, but also
gives me the impression that less actual steering wheel movement is
required. I don't have to pull the wheel as far to make small changes
in direction, but the wheel is harder to turn. It's not a drastic change,
just enough that I found my self riding the "botts dots" at the outside
edge of big sweeping turns several times. It feels somehow more secure
and responsive, but it's not what I'm used to and it does take a little
more force, so it seems a little weird.
One very noticable difference I very much like, is that the truck doesn't
have a tendancy to follow rain grooves and "edges" on the freeway anymore.
On some types of road surfaces it used to want to follow the grooves quite
a bit. That tendancy seems to be gone now.
This evening i went for a nice blast up a favorite local twisty road, and
had a good time. The truck is *much* happier in the hard twisties now.
Tight corners that I could only manage 35 mph with much tire squeel now
are comfortable at 40-45mph with less wailing and moaning from the tires.
The front end used to plow a LOT when pushed hard, but it only plows quite
a bit now... (O.K., it still handles like a pig, but it feels *much* better
now than it ever has for me before.)
All things together, I think the truck feels quite a bit better now.
The tires and time will tell the rest of the story...

Some folks quite rightfully pointed out that toe-in was also a likely
cause of my tire wear, and that since the I-beams are rather hard to bend
accidently it was unlikely that camber was my problem.
True. Let me explain...

When I got the truck, the springs were *way* beat down. It sat much too low
and the passenger side sat about 2" lower... You could see the excess negative
camber, the tires definately stood on the inside edge. I drove it this way for
a few months on some used tires and it ate the *inside* corners in just a few
thousand miles. I bought some new springs at the local spring emporium and they
are a fairly stiff progressive wound spring. They had about 1/2" more unloaded
height than the stock ones, but sit *much* taller when loaded. After the new
springs the front of the truck sat much higher than before. Probably an inch
or 2 higher than stock. Toe-in has been repeatedly checked (by me) and is fine.
Since I'm not looking for any particular ride height, just something in the
"stockish" area, and bending the axles doesn't really make me feel warm and
fuzzy, I opted to adjust spring heights to optimize camber.

I never realized how radically the camber changed with small changes in ride
height until I drew it up in TurboCAD and watched and measured what happens.

A change in ride height of 2", measured in the fenderwell at the center of the
tire tread, changes camber about 2-1/3 degrees.
An 8" wide tire tread tipped to 2-1/3 degrees positive camber will want to
have it's inside edge lifted about 0.32" above the outside edge of the tread.
Or with the inside edge just touching the ground, the outside edge is trying
to be 0.32" into the asphalt. Or 0.32" into itself.
That CAN'T be good for tire wear... It sure wasn't for mine. )-:

Anyway. I was amazed by the numbers, and I don't know if what I've
done is "optimum" yet, but it's got to be much better. I'll keep a close
eye on the next set of tires and may "adjust" things further to try and
optimize tire wear.
I appreciate all the specs and suggestions You guys sent, and thanks for
letting
me fully vent on the subject... I feel much better now.
I think my truck does too.

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

Opportunity may knock only once, but temptation
leans on the doorbell.

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 22:31:18 -0400
From: Chris Robinson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bronco Overheating on Interstate

OK, regarding my overheating problem. David Butts recommended a few
good things to try. I found a place that carries the Red Line Water
additive. I get that tomorrow. The only other thermostat I have found
is a 195f. I used it during the winter to insure I had heat. I
suspected that 160 might be too cold but that's what it had last summer.

I was going through everything that has been done since last summer and
I realized that I had replaced the factory carb with a 750 Holley dual
line. He had it jetted for a 351C and I took it off his motor and put
it on mine and did nothing other than adjust idle mixtures. Could it be
running too lean? Today it started to get a little warm in traffic, 92f
outside. It can sit and idle all day and never go above N but after
running at highway speeds, it starts to heat up and then it will stay
hot in town. Could it be the carb?

Tomorrow (Wed.) I'm gonna install the 195 thermostat, add the Red Line
and rejet the carb to the jets rec. for a 460. We'll see how that does.

Still looking for your suggestions everyone.

Chris

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 23:00:23 EDT
From: FORDTRKNUT

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Under dash A/C

This is in reference about the underdash A/C question. FORD had the A/C
intagrated into the dash from 1973 thru 1979. If you see a truck with knobs
near the center of the dash, it was dealer installed. They offered a KIT that
bolted into the truck, and it looked good too!!
Wayne Grabley
1979 F-350 Ranger Lariet 4x4
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT
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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 23:06:22 EDT
From: FORDTRKNUT

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1979 Dana 60 front rear for sale...

I have a Dana 60 rear out of a 1979 F-250 that is for sale. I live in New
Jersey and can delivier on Saturday for a small fee. I want $500.00 for the
rear...its complete, but the truck was sitting for a while. The rotors are a
little rusted, and can be cleaned up and they will work fine. I do not know
what gears are in it...but will find out on Saturday when I pick up the rear.
Hope someone can use it!!!! Wayne Grabley
E-mail me at: FORDTRKNUT

AOL.COM
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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 21:45:16 -0600
From: "Dan Neagley"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 78 Bronco tailgate....

> > From: "Gregory A. Bunton"
>
> > Hello all...I'm kinda new to the list....well anyway I'll get on
> > with the quesion/problem. Today my back window went down...but I
> > can't put it up!! All of a sudden It won't work. The key switch has
> > never worked, so I used the switch on the dashboard..but now that
> > doesn't work either. Any suggestions?? Any help would be
> > appreciated!!!
>
> Open the tail gate and take off the cover panel. There are several
> connectors in there but the one that I had trouble with was where the
> harness connected to the motor. Pull it off and replug it several
> times and try it again. There are switches in the locking dogs that
> won't allow the window to operate when the tail gate is open so close
> it first and then try to raise it. It may take a few attempts to get
> a good connection. If you know how to take the spades out of the
> plug you can get them out and crimp them a bit and put it back
> together with silicon grease on the spades and it will keep it from
> corroding again.
>
> As for the Key switch, I found I only have 2v reaching the harness on
> that leg so the problem is up front somewere on mine.
>
There is an accessory safety relay on the instrument panel reinforcement
(left of the brake pedal) which was bad on my 78 Bronco. If this relay is
bad, then you can not raise or lower the rear window with the dash mounted
switch.

If you open up the tailgate to check the electrical connections, take the
time
to grease the window mechanisms. The window will raise and lower much
faster.

A black/white wire supplies current to the power window motor. This gets
its
power from the circuit breaker stud on the starter motor relay.

If you need more info, email me, I have the factory wiring diagram...

Dan in ABQ

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 21:56:22 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Axle shims

>Since I am doing a frame-up resto on my truck I have taken my springs off
>my axles. My truck's chassis is a 71 f250 4x4 with dana 44f and 60r.
>There are two pot-metal shims under the springs on the front axle (one on
>each side), I guess for setting the height of the pinion, and indirectly
>the camber angle (is that right, or is that caster, I can never tell which
>is which).

Are they tapered shims, thicker at one end than the other? Those are for
setting the pinion angle. Ideally the axle pinion shaft and the tranny
output shaft should be parallel to each other, but not in the same plane.
You want the pinion and tranny shaft to be parellel to each other under
normal load. Since the rear axle housing and pinion actually rotate upwards
slightly under load, You want the pinion to be rotated down maybe 1 degree
or so. That way the torque reaction on the axle will rotate it up to
parallel when You are driving. The front axle I guess would want to be
rotated up a degree from parellel. I dunno. most driving on the road is
done with no torque applied to the front wheels, so maybe it should
be set at 0 degrees... I am not knowing these 4wd things.
The tranny shaft is usually above the axle pinion, and this offsets the shaft
in one plane but to keep the grease distributed and prevent brinnelling of
the u-joint cross shaft the axle pinion needs also to be offset in the other
plane as well. Most rear ends have got the punkin offset to one side of the
motor to "exorcise" the grease in the u-joints.

A shop I used to work for had a really nice book about industrial bearings
and drivelines and told everything You would ever want to know about
setting up driveline angles and stuff. You might inquire with Your local
industrial bearing house to see if they know where to get a good driveline
manual. I'll try and remember to ask about one next time I'm at the bearing
house.

You can find a website with some driveline info at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.classic truckshop.

com/t4.htm

>Can somebody explain to me how to put this thing back together? Thanks

My book says "assembly is reverse order of disassembly." (-;

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/
'71 F100 flairside, FE390/T-18.
"The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it."
-- Oscar Wilde

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 22:07:39 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1979 Dana 60 front rear for sale...

FORDTRKNUT

aol.com wrote:

> I have a Dana 60 rear out of a 1979 F-250 that is for sale. I live in New
> Jersey and can delivier on Saturday for a small fee. I want $500.00 for the
> rear...its complete, but the truck was sitting for a while. The rotors are a
> little rusted, and can be cleaned up and they will work fine. I do not know
> what gears are in it...but will find out on Saturday when I pick up the rear.
> Hope someone can use it!!!! Wayne Grabley
> E-mail me at: FORDTRKNUT

AOL.COM

Why does everybody with the good stuff live on the east coast......
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon

pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 22:28:54 -0700
From: "Jim Cron"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Impact wrench

To Jim Hurd

The electric units are larger and heavier and this is a real problem to
using them for auto work. They are awkward and just don't fit where you
need them. I have used the Black and Decker and it is a pretty good unit
but not nearly as handy as my cheap air unit. The electrics also get hot
while the air units stay cool and cannot burn out. If you are trying to
avoid getting an air compressor, you are headed in the wrong direction. You
need air. If you have it, a good air unit will give you more for your buck
any day.

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Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 01:07:16 -0500
From: "Brett"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1979 Dana 60 front rear for sale...

Well, I have a Dana 60 rear with 4.10's out of a 76 F250 for sale in
Minnesota if thats any closer.

Brett
76 F250 4x4 460 38's
- ----------
> From: Don Grossman
> To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1979 Dana 60 front rear for sale...
> Date: Wednesday, June 24, 1998 1:07 AM
>
>
>
> FORDTRKNUT

aol.com wrote:
>
> > I have a Dana 60 rear out of a 1979 F-250 that is for sale. I live in
New
> > Jersey and can delivier on Saturday for a small fee. I want $500.00
for the
> > rear...its complete, but the truck was sitting for a while. The rotors
are a
> > little rusted, and can be cleaned up and they will work fine. I do not
know
> > what gears are in it...but will find out on Saturday when I pick up the
rear.
> > Hope someone can use it!!!! Wayne Grabley
> > E-mail me at: FORDTRKNUT

AOL.COM
>
> Why does everybody with the good stuff live on the east coast......
> --
> Don Grossman
> duckdon

pacific.net
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon
>
> 63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.
>
>
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Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 00:30:28 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine weight page.

O.K. guys and gals, I've got a page up for weights of engine parts
and accessories. It's VERY sparse right now, but I know you guys will
help me fill it up...

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/weights/

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/
'71 F100 flairside, FE390/T-18.
"The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it."
-- Oscar Wilde

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Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 07:22:57 -0400
From: "Karl Simon"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Brakes OK-Suspension shot?

My 1977 F150 4x4 pulls to the left under braking. The left wheel tends to
lock up, but all in all it stops well except for the severe left pull. I've
put on rebuilt calipers and new pads with no noticeable change.

My theory is, "the brakes are OK, but the suspension is worn". Could the
'C' bushing or control arm bushings be so rotten to cause this? They look
pretty cracked, and I estimate they are 21 years and 160,000 miles old. Or
could it be some other suspension piece bad?

Anyone have any similar experiences, knowledge, confirming tests or
disagreements?

Karl

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Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 06:14:48 PDT
From: "Jay Branscome"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Price?

OK Guys. Question time. Fellow down here has a 67 F100 Ranger for sale.
Body is very clean with only one rust spot showing on the front quarter
panel. Bed is dent free paint is in really great shape and the interior
is also clean. I put the magnet to it and it has no body putty that I
could find, 120,000K on the odometer. Only drawback I see is that there
is a leak of some sort at the rear of the engine. Cant get to the engine
cause he has it chained down. The trucks sitting on a re sale lot. Want
$4,000 for it. Is it worth it?

Jay B. 1965 F-100 Custom Cab Long Bed

JBMAN100

Hotmail.com

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/nashville/4134
______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 08:30:50 -0600
From: Jamey Moss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating on Interstate

David Butts wrote:

> ... Use redline water wetter (if you can find it, I can't!)

Try a motorcycle shop, especially one that sells sportbikes. That's where I
buy mine (in fact, I'm getting a bottle after work today). I've also seen it
at a car dealership and a local "speed shop." If you can find the number for
Redline, they might be able to tell you where to find it in your area.

Jamey Moss
'67 F100
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Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 09:39:29 -0700
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Brakes OK-Suspension shot?

At 07:22 AM 6/24/98 -0400, you wrote:
>My 1977 F150 4x4 pulls to the left under braking. The left wheel tends to
>lock up, but all in all it stops well except for the severe left pull. I've
>put on rebuilt calipers and new pads with no noticeable change.
>
>My theory is, "the brakes are OK, but the suspension is worn". Could the
>'C' bushing or control arm bushings be so rotten to cause this? They look
>pretty cracked, and I estimate they are 21 years and 160,000 miles old. Or
>could it be some other suspension piece bad?
>
>Anyone have any similar experiences, knowledge, confirming tests or
>disagreements?
>
>Karl
>

My 67 F100 had the same pull. It was drum based. I rebuilt the
entire system and still it pulled. I finally decided to swap out
the king pins (and change to discs) the problem went away.

Ken Payne

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Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 06:49:14 PDT
From: "WILLIAM WHITED"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cuba

Just to let everyone know, I'm down here having a good time other then
the fact that I miss my baby. But I'm trying to aquire a 75 F150
Explorer Supercab, from a fellow down here. Don't worry when I get
ready to make a Jamaica trip I'll let ya'll know like, yes Stan you to.
It's great to back on the list. Tony

74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390 AT

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 06:49:42 PDT
From: "WILLIAM WHITED"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cuba

Just to let everyone know, I'm down here having a good time other then
the fact that I miss my baby. But I'm trying to aquire a 75 F150
Explorer Supercab, from a fellow down here. Don't worry when I get
ready to make a Jamaica trip I'll let ya'll know like, yes Stan you to.
It's great to back on the list. Tony

74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390 AT

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 09:58:11 -0400
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cuba

Semper Fi, drink some cuba libra's for me.

John Miller, FoMoCoNUT

Gibralter.net
96 F-350 Reg Cab XLT, 4x4, 460 w/ A4OD, My Baby "Baloo"
75 F-100 Reg Cab Ranger, 2wd, 360, C6, Daily Driver "Lucy"
and "always" looking ! ! !
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Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 10:08:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rob Long
Subject: FTE 61-79 - History Lesson

Does anyone know if there is any difference between the 78 & 79 F-Series ???

Rob
(looking to restore 4x4)

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Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 08:20:10 PDT
From: "WILLIAM WHITED"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cuba

You know that I will. Thanks Take it easy. Semper Fi

Semper Fi, drink some cuba libra's for me.

John Miller, FoMoCoNUT

Gibralter.net
96 F-350 Reg Cab XLT, 4x4, 460 w/ A4OD, My Baby "Baloo"
75 F-100 Reg Cab Ranger, 2wd, 360, C6, Daily Driver "Lucy"
and "always" looking ! ! !
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Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 08:30:03 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Overheating on Interstate

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://redlineoil.com/contact.htm

- ----------
> David Butts wrote:
>
>
> > ... Use redline water wetter (if you can find it, I can't!)
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 11:39:38 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Running hot

A higher temp thermostat should control the flow better. Are you running
195 or 180?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael R. Masse
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, June 24, 1998 6:14 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Running hot

>Marko Maryniak wrote:
>>
>> At 11:40 AM 23/06/98 -0400, you wrote:
>> >Genesis Sanchez writes: >> she's running hot in the city, on the hwy
she's
>> >o.k'
>> >
>
>Do you have a fan clutch? I had these symptoms a while back on a
>different vehicle
>and found out it was the fan clutch.
>
>I'm having the opposite problem now. I can drive in bumper to bumper
>stop and go city traffic
>all day long in 90+ weather and the gauge never goes past 1/2 way, but
>even when it's 60 or so out,
>if I'm on the highway going above 55 mph the temp just starts creeping
>up. I've already
>replaced the thermostat with no change. I've been thinking
>that either the coolant is just flowing too fast through the radiator,
>or maybe something with
>the centrifigal advance causing to much advance when at those speeds,
>but I don't get any
>pinging. Any ideas??
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Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 08:53:42 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - History Lesson

Rob Long wrote:

> Does anyone know if there is any difference between the 78 & 79 F-Series ???
>
> Rob
> (looking to restore 4x4)
>
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You can find a 78 with either round or square headlights. Other than that not
much else that I can think of.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon

VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Impact wrench

Also want to thank Jim Cron and sleddog for there input re: the impact
wrench. I am going to have to give this serious consideration!

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 09:11:09 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Axle shims

sdelanty

sonic.net wrote:

> >Since I am doing a frame-up resto on my truck I have taken my springs off
> >my axles. My truck's chassis is a 71 f250 4x4 with dana 44f and 60r.
> >There are two pot-metal shims under the springs on the front axle (one on
> >each side), I guess for setting the height of the pinion, and indirectly
> >the camber angle (is that right, or is that caster, I can never tell which
> >is which).
>
> Are they tapered shims, thicker at one end than the other? Those are for
> setting the pinion angle. Ideally the axle pinion shaft and the tranny
> output shaft should be parallel to each other, but not in the same plane.
> You want the pinion and tranny shaft to be parellel to each other under
> normal load. Since the rear axle housing and pinion actually rotate upwards
> slightly under load, You want the pinion to be rotated down maybe 1 degree
> or so. That way the torque reaction on the axle will rotate it up to
> parallel when You are driving. The front axle I guess would want to be
> rotated up a degree from parellel. I dunno. most driving on the road is
> done with no torque applied to the front wheels, so maybe it should
> be set at 0 degrees... I am not knowing these 4wd things.
> The tranny shaft is usually above the axle pinion, and this offsets the shaft
> in one plane but to keep the grease distributed and prevent brinnelling of
> the u-joint cross shaft the axle pinion needs also to be offset in the other
> plane as well. Most rear ends have got the punkin offset to one side of the
> motor to "exorcise" the grease in the u-joints.
>
> A shop I used to work for had a really nice book about industrial bearings
> and drivelines and told everything You would ever want to know about
> setting up driveline angles and stuff. You might inquire with Your local
> industrial bearing house to see if they know where to get a good driveline
> manual. I'll try and remember to ask about one next time I'm at the bearing
> house.
>

Those shims work great in the back but in the front they can be a pain. All the
info on the drive shaft is right but when you think about it your are rotating
the whole axle. Than then changes the relationship between the top and bottom
ball joints ( Caster?)

What you need in the caster department is just enough to have the wheels self
center when coming out of a turn. I don't remember if it is + or - or what.
When the shims are used to correct drive line angle you run the risk of changing
the caster enough that it can't be corrected at the ball joints. There is an
offset bushing for the top ball joint but it only has a range of 2-3 deg. (1+ to
1-) With a stock rig shims are not all the common in the front IMHO, but on
trucks that are lifted with after market springs they are used all the time.

Usually you can set the caster and leave the drive shaft angle, on a part-time
truck. You might travel down the highway at 70 mph but only go 10-15mph in 4x
drive. I would rather go straight at 70 and take the chance of a little drive
line vibration at 10 mph. Heck if your drive shaft is vibrating at 10 mph you
have more serious problems anyway.

> You can find a website with some driveline info at:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.classic truckshop.

com/t4.htm
>
> >Can somebody explain to me how to put this thing back together? Thanks
>
> My book says "assembly is reverse order of disassembly." (-;
>

YEP
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon

VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - camber spec for '71 F100 (final chapter)

On Tue, 23 Jun 1998 sdelanty

sonic.net wrote:

> Well, I got that spring cutting/camber adjusting thing done last night.

Steve; was it much of a project to remove those springs? (Don't
know if a '71 is similar to my '79.)

effects...thanks.>

> fuzzy, I opted to adjust spring heights to optimize camber.

BTW, my '79 Light Truck Shop Manual lists a "service shim, 2 per
side (max)". This must be incase you cut too much of the spring? :)
and thanks for
> letting
> me fully vent on the subject... I feel much better now.
> I think my truck does too.

BTDT (Been There, Done That!)

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)
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Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 12:22:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: hurdj

VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Lift update

On Tue, 23 Jun 1998, Gary, 78 BBB wrote:

>
> The red Pick up is back on the road with king pins (all four
> bushings) taking grease finally,
>
Gary, I may have missed your previous post, but what did you do,
replace the kingpin bushings? can you describe the process?

Thanks...........

Jim in Cnetral NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 12:21:16 +0000
From: tfmf211

murphyfarms.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: oil pressure (lack of)

Wow, sounds like the beginning of my post several months
back. Azie, Sleddog, Marko and a whole host of people
helped me out. I wound up dropping the pan and replacing
the pump. (Had the pan down, might as well go for the
obvious) I checked the the bearing while in there and they were
fine. When we looked in the bottom of the pan we discovered
schrapnel from an exploded timing gear. Some time during my
trucks life the timing gear shredded itself and a new one put on.
The owner didn't clean the pan out, which destroyed my pump.
Things are good now, I have a clean bottom end with a good
pump. After replacing the pump and checking the Mains, I also
changed the rear seal. Wasn't leaking, but while I was in there...
Just food for thought!

-Ted
_______________
Keith sparks writes: >>after warm up on the interstate it reads 25
pounds..at idle it reads 0......nothing knocks or rattles...bad gauge? bad
pump? or bad mains??? any help would be appreciated

You don't say which engine, but it really doesn't matter in the case of the
oil pressure. Most likely it is too many miles - worn bearings. This is
the classic indicator of such at any rate. Main and rod bearings can be
replaced with out breaking down the complete engine. Not easy - but can be
done. I personally never replace the bearings with out replacing the oil
pump, but this is just a quirk of mine. If you have no knocks - bangs -
and rattles, and are not planning on any high speed chases of extra heavy
hauling, I would run it until I started to get valve rattle(assuming you
have hydraulic valves). Usually the valve rattle is a good 1st indicator
of needing to O'haul.

JMHO.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.
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Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 13:01:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rob Long
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - History Lesson

Thanks Don... That was the one thing I did know...only I was thinking that
the 78 only had round headlights until recently I noticed more and more
78's with square lights.
Got any tips on restoring one ?? ANYONE ???

Rob

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 10:48:59 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - History Lesson

At 01:01 PM 24/06/98 -0400, you wrote:

>Got any tips on restoring one ?? ANYONE ???
>
>Rob

Rob:

When it comes to costs, hours, sacrifice, time, etc., double all your
estimates.

Then double them again.

If you say "might as well" to one detail thing (like sandblasting
something, or powder coating, for example) then you will say the same to
everything. So double everything again.

And finally, double everything one last time.

Talk to you in a year.
I mean two years.

marko in vancouver
marko

dsm.ca

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 14:09:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rob Long
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - History Lesson

Marko,
that would be 4 years then right ??

Thanks for the advise!

Rob in Ohio

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 11:15:01 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - camber spec for '71 F100 (final chapter)

> Steve; was it much of a project to remove those springs? (Don't
> know if a '71 is similar to my '79.)

It's easy on mine.
Jack up the truck by the frame until the wheel is off the ground and....

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