Re: FTE 61-79 - Question on brakes

61-79-list-digest Friday, June 19 1998 Volume 02 : Number 347

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Question on brakes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Question on brakes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Question on brakes
FTE 61-79 - C-6 Toggling 2 to 3
RE: FTE 61-79 - Stupid Owner trick
FTE 61-79 - FE Dampers
FTE 61-79 - 67 Wiring Schematic
FTE 61-79 - High Pro List Type Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - 67 Wiring Schematic
FTE 61-79 - RE: engine weights
FTE 61-79 - RE: intake ID
FTE 61-79 - Question on brakes
FTE 61-79 - 64 F100 with 302 swap
FTE 61-79 - 1972 F-100 Question
FTE 61-79 - 79 Bronco Tranny Cooler
FTE 61-79 - dana full floater
FTE 61-79 - Weights....
Re: FTE 61-79 - dana full floater
FTE 61-79 - AUX FUEL TANKS
Re: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt
Re: FTE 61-79 - Stupid Owner trick
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: engine weights
FTE 61-79 - FE Weight.
FTE 61-79 - One them days.
FTE 61-79 - Engine Weights, Etc.
FTE 61-79 - Rake on intakes
FTE 61-79 - Want to add A/C - 69 parts truck
FTE 61-79 - re:Help!/Advise/Shoulders to Cry on!
FTE 61-79 - FE cams
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: engine weights
Re: FTE 61-79 - Question on brakes
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: engine weights - Parts parts everywhere
RE: FTE 61-79 - 79 Bronco Tranny Cooler

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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 14:23:17 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Question on brakes

At 01:37 PM 18/06/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Ok guys. The other day you helped me figure out what kind of
>transmission I have (np435) and the transfer case (np203, no...Dana 24,
>no...Dana 21? was that it? :).
>
>Anyway, now I need help with brakes. The truck is a 1970 F100 4x4. I
>got the back drums off and decided 1 needs replaced and 1 needs turned,
>but I can't get the front drums off no matter what I do! I have been
>fighting with this for over 2 hours! What gives? Yes, the adjusters
>are backed all the way out. Do I need to take apart the hub too?
>
>Help! I don't want to pay Les Schwab $325-$700+!!!!
>--
>Draygo
>Insert something cool here....

The short answer is yes you do. The long answer is you don't really have
to but the drums fit tight on the hubs, and the wheel lugs go thru the hub
and the drum. I had to remove mine, then heat the hub near the seam
between hub and drum, then pound them (top of hub) real hard (I mean REAL
hard, 10lb hammer, block o' maple, earmuffs) to get them off. Remember to
use blocks so as not to dent/fracture the hub, and wear eye protection.

Good luck.

marko

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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 14:36:27 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Question on brakes

MC wrote:

> Ok guys. The other day you helped me figure out what kind of
> transmission I have (np435) and the transfer case (np203, no...Dana 24,
> no...Dana 21? was that it? :).
>
> Anyway, now I need help with brakes. The truck is a 1970 F100 4x4. I
> got the back drums off and decided 1 needs replaced and 1 needs turned,
> but I can't get the front drums off no matter what I do! I have been
> fighting with this for over 2 hours! What gives? Yes, the adjusters
> are backed all the way out. Do I need to take apart the hub too?

Sometimes the front drums are a tight fit to start with and with a couple
of years of rust build up it can be next to impossible to get them off.
If the average prying and banging doesn't get them loose it just might be
eazier to take the hub off and remove the drum from the back side. Sorry

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon

dsm.ca

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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 15:14:27 -0700
From: gpark

cymer.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C-6 Toggling 2 to 3

My C6, which is in a 77 F150 behind a 351M, has begun to go schizo on the 2
to 3 gear shift.
I'm going along, off the traffic light or stop sign or whatever, and at the
2 to 3 shift, it suddenly decides it wants to be in 2 after all. No, 3rd!
No, 2nd! No 3rd!. Geez.
The tranny was re-built about 5K miles ago. The truck pulls a 1300lb boat
usually.
I'm pretty sure I'm not getting the mechanical kickdown ivolved, cause my
foots not into the pedal at all. The fluid looks OK. It is kind of an
intermittant thing, but it doesn't seem related to temp of the
motor/tranny. Other than that, things are pretty good.
Any ideas on where I should start to look?
Thanks, my Ford brothers.

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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 16:10:00 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Stupid Owner trick

FWIW the 44 in the front of my 77, the pinion bearing on the inside just
slipped in/out very loosely. i ended up shimming it and using lock-tite
cylindrical bond to keep it in. i did this as a fast fix and it has held
up so far for 3 yrs. of truck pulls. the carrier bearngs are also shimmed
wrong. i did everything wrong on that axle in fact and it has held
together.

but, if the outer race spins very loosely in the housing, basically, the
housing is trashed.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Michael R. Masse[SMTP:mrm

medicine.wisc.edu]
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 1998 1:24 PM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Stupid Owner trick

Spinning the pinion reveals that the outer
bearing cup spins in it's seat as opposed to the bearing spinning in the
cup. That's as far as I've gone. Is my housing trash now that the
bearing cup will spin?? I think that's supposed to be a press in deal.
What would cause the pinion to be able to slide in and out? Did the
inner and outer bearing cups wear the material inbetween them? I'm
screwed ain't I? If you look up the definition of "haste makes waste"
in a book of cliches it'll have a picture of me.

Doh!
DOH!
DOH!

Mike
'78 Bronco
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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 18:39:26 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Dampers

> BTW for Bill Ballinger:
>
> Bill, I checked and the timing marks are on the same spot, roughly 4:30 if
> you were on a clock face (maybe 5 o'clock?).

Thanks. I guess I'll solve this mystery when it lays down on me. I've
done all I can do to figure it out, short of tearing it down, and I
thank everyone for their input. It just will never be a normal, quiet
engine, until I pull it down and make it one. Runs good though, so It
will probably go for a while.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr

ldd.net
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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 20:42:42 -0400
From: Jim Freyburger
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 67 Wiring Schematic

Does anyone out there have a complete wiring schematic for a 67
F100, in addition I need the color code for the instrument cluster
(white)

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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 18:06:23 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - High Pro List Type Question

I am looking for some/any information on some SVO Cylinder Heads. These
heads were last seen in the 1994 SVO Catalog; they carried the part numbers:
M-6049-C302 and M-6049-C302B. They were sold bare and priced

$622 Ea.
in 1994. They are listed by part number on the 1995 SVO Catalog but at
least in my copy they are not in the catalog, I have not seen these heads
referenced since 1995. Are these heads available from someone in the
aftermarket. My local Ford Dealer claims ignorance, and obsolete.
I know someone out there knows the answer to this question... or knows
someone who does.

When'z that High-Pro list gonn-a start...

Thankz All
Chris
79 Bronco

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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 22:09:35 EDT
From: RDbanesjr

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 67 Wiring Schematic

When you find the schematics for the '67 f100 could you pass them my way, TIA.

Dug in louisiana
'67 swb 240
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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 20:08:07 -0600
From: dcbeatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: engine weights

Steve. I have my old motor complete (except for externals like alternator
and the like) over at a friends house. I think it's a 352 but won't know
until I get the pan off. I'll try to scam a scale somewhere.

Parts parts everywhere except in my truck. Well...there are some in the
back in boxes.

Drew
dcbeatty

rmi.net

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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 20:09:55 -0600
From: dcbeatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: intake ID

Marko:

This manifold is raked--downward sloping back to front. I think it will
work :-0. Anybody??

Also, what are you 4v folks using for an air cleaner? I'm wondering if I
should scrounge a stock Ford for the heat riser stuff, given my carb icing
problem. Any suggestions?

Drew
dcbeatty

rmi.net

>marko

dsm.ca Wrote:
>Heard something awhile ago though... :( I heard T bird intakes aren't
>interchangeable, as the T bird engine sits flat and a truck engine for
>example sits on a backwards rake. This means the angle of the carb flange
>is basically flat for the tbird manifold, and raked for the other
applications.
>
>I could be wrong, but that's what I read somewhere

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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 19:28:20 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Question on brakes

On Thu, 18 Jun 1998, MC wrote:
>
> Ok guys. The other day you helped me figure out what kind of
> transmission I have (np435) and the transfer case (np203, no...Dana 24,
> no...Dana 21? was that it? :).
>
> Anyway, now I need help with brakes. The truck is a 1970 F100 4x4. I
> got the back drums off and decided 1 needs replaced and 1 needs turned,
> but I can't get the front drums off no matter what I do! I have been
> fighting with this for over 2 hours! What gives? Yes, the adjusters
> are backed all the way out. Do I need to take apart the hub too?
>
> Help! I don't want to pay Les Schwab $325-$700+!!!!

Well, I could be wrong but I think this is still one of the years that
they pressed the wheel studs into the drum. Unfortunately you do have
to disassemble the hubs to do the brakes. However, you will only need
to do it once, and the hubs probably need a little attention anyway.
Once you have it apart set the hub/drum assembley on a sturdy bench and
bang out the studs with a soft drift so you won't mess up the threads
like I once did. Then when the hub falls out of the drum, ream out the
lug holes in the drum with a round file so they are no longer an
interference fit, but not so much that they get sloppy. You will have
backed the studs out of the hub flange some by pounding on them, so turn
the hub over and put the stud down through an open vise or the hole in
an anvil and pound it back in. You will know when it is in when the
hammer bounces back with greater force.

Once you do this you will be able to service your drums without taking
the hub apart.

Birken
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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 22:30:49 -0400
From: "Desanto, Phillip"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 64 F100 with 302 swap

Nils Gore- Write me direct. I have some info for you but can't get it to
your "posted" E-mail address. Comes back, "undeliverable" ???
PDeSanto

Cinergy.com
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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 22:50:22 EDT
From: POLING4

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1972 F-100 Question

Does anyone know the brand/type of speaker cover used on the DOOR of the F-100
back in 72....... I think FORD used the grill speaker cover from the 72
Mustang.

Any help in the crowd tonight.......

Poling4

aol.com
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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 22:36:37 -0400
From: Chris Robinson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 79 Bronco Tranny Cooler

Hi everyone, my name is Chris Robinson and I'm new to the list. I have a 79 Bronco with a 429CJ and C6,
4" lift and 35" BFGs. Anyway, I'm getting ready to tow a trailer out to Missouri (I'm in Virginia) and
wanted to install this B&M Tranny Cooler I have. BUT where in the heck do I put it! I already have a/c
so I'm hesitant to put another cooler in front of the radiator. Any suggestions?

Chris R.

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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 22:54:38 EDT
From: BDIJXS

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - dana full floater

Hey Don,

Well, yes, I happened to have installed later hubs (80-85 Dodge) on my 72 Dana
60 full floater. I know I'm headed for trouble with a few guys here, but after
I picked up my rear axle at the junkyard (it came stock with 2" brake hubs), I
noticed another complete Dana 60 sitting quietly on a stack of wheels that
looked like it had much wider brake drums. I grabbed the drums, hubs, and
backing plates from this unit. I only found out later after calling my local
parts house with B.O.M. number that it was early 80's Dodge. Well, the hubs
were identical to the Ford parts, and everything else bolted right up. The
stock brakes were 2-1/2" wide, but there was still plenty of room in the drum,
so I tried out a pair of 3" shoes, and they fit no problem, so I ended up with
a pretty cool setup. I also put in new wheel brake cylinders, but 1" diameter
rather than the stock 7/8".

Now, with that being said, I have pre-bolted everything together, but I
haven't installed the whole assembly in the truck yet. Looks like I won't get
to it in a few weeks (headed to Asia!), but I'll let you know how it goes. A
few things I should mention: The newer rigs have a slightly different inlet
for the E-brake cable. After looking at the cables in Dave R's 1980 F-250 4x4,
I picked up a couple driver's side cables for that year (the passenger side
and driver's side cables are different lengths in these later years, but the
same length in my 69). These are real high-quality and fit right in. Also, if
you are considering swapping differentials (I put the Power Lok unit out of my
69' Dana 60-2 in the 72 full-floater housing), be ready to buy NEW axles. The
stock axles in the 72 were 16 spline, but, for whatever reason, my 69 Power
Lok required 30 spline. I found all kinds of axles for mid-70's trucks, but
they were all about 1/2" too long. I finally had to go with a set from Moser
Racing, which, by the way, weren't very much more expensive than if you were
to buy new Dana units.

It may have been possible to find another set of longer hubs to accommodate
the longer axles, but I was ready to say "uncle" after several weeks of mixing
and matching parts.

Just got my differential set up and new clutch plates put in by a friend of
mine...this is TRULY an art....

One other thing, the custom axles couldn't be "hollowed out" on the flange
plate as much as the stockers to allow for the spindle clearance (my spindles
protruded from the hub about 1/8"). I just put on an old spindle nut, and
ground the ends of the spindles slightly. I know this sounds hack, but it came
out nice, and with just a little touch-up work, the nuts go on and off no
problem....

Hope this helps!

Colorado Jeff

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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 23:01:01 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Weights....

Concerning the issue about the weights of engines and parts,
I'll put it up on the site after someone gets a good list
compiled.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com
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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 20:40:20 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - dana full floater

BDIJXS

aol.com wrote:

> Hey Don,
>
> Well, yes,

snip!

> Hope this helps!
>
> Colorado Jeff
>

Thanks Jeff

What I was looking to do is add disk brakes to my old axle but the old style hubs
will take year on the lathe to cut enough metal off to get the rotors to mount.
My thought was to get a set off a 73-79 Ford dana 60 and just swap them out but I
see that there might be a problem if the newer hub is longer/shorter then the old
one.

Time for some thinking.....
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon

pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.

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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 23:42:28 -0400
From: "."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AUX FUEL TANKS

Thanks Steve, CO Jeff and Tom H for the info on your tanks. Here is what I
have found out so far.
I have a Haynes book of schematics for 73-79 F-series which shows the
3-tank and the 2-tank after 1978 setups and wiring. It doesn't say
anything about crew or super cabs and it doesn't show anything except one
(1) SOLENOID valve which switches fuel from (must assume here) aft aux to
mid aux tanks.
I was really confused about the schematic showing the in-cab tank wiring
for the gauge unit connected (actually piggy-backed) to the front aux tank
gauge unit, but from what you guys are saying, it appears they may have
been connected both sending unit-wise and plumbing-wise. I guess when you
fill up the cab tank, the higher elevation of it would certainly make it
drain into the front (mid) aux tank mounted between the frame rails right
underneath it.
I've got more years in with Ford than with GM and Chrysler put together,
but somewhere along the line my inner conscience was permanently affected
by that

#$%^* Mr. Goodwrench parts slogan to "...keep your truck all GM".
I just apply it to my Ford's !
I didn't want to hook up these 2 tanks I am adding unless I could do it to
make it look like an original factory install, but unless I can find
someone out there who has the original 3-tank switching setup prior to 78,
I guess I can hook up a separate rotary switch for the gauges (Good idea
Jeff) and plumb the cab tank into the 1st aux.(There goes my chances of
"showing" the truck next year ).
By the way Tom H., the front aux tank mounted between the frame rails on
the L side of the driveshaft starting approx behind the cab and the aft
tank is mounted centered behind the axle housing between the frame rails in
most of the 73-79 250's and 350's. When you said "end-of-bed", you meant
the front end, didn't you ?
If anyone has the "original" 3-tank setup, can you explain how the fuel
lines are positioned connecting from the in-cab tank to the
mid-tank?
thanks again for the info.
Jerry

1969 F350 dually reefer 351W AOD AC PS PB PW PL ++
1970 f100 (ret)

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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 23:35:45 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt

the idea is to heat up the area around the bolt,this expands the cast iron
around the bolt,then when you cool the bolt down it shrinks and you should be
applying a small
of pressure on it and it will slowly loosen.but be very careful the last thing
you want to do is break an ez out off in it.
i had also mentioned that any torching should be done by an expert
torch operator.
in my time i have removed over 100 broke off studs using the heat and cool
procedure mentioned above with great success.i had to do the torch thing
maybe 5 times.and yes,about 90% of all of them were FE fords

jeff grant
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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 23:45:01 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Stupid Owner trick

do you want to buy a complete front end for 250.00?i have one complete with
the disc brakes and everything. out of a 78.i'm in georgia

jeff grant
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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 21:35:41 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: engine weights

>Steve. I have my old motor complete (except for externals like alternator
>and the like) over at a friends house. I think it's a 352 but won't know
>until I get the pan off. I'll try to scam a scale somewhere.

Excellent, weigh it all up and send me the data! I'll keep a list and get it
organized. Ken said he'd put them up when we get it together.

I'd like to get as complete a list as possible of each part that makes up
an engine so we can see both what a complete engine weighs and what each part
weighs. That makes it easy to determine how much difference aluminum heads,
manifolds, etc, makes for each engine family.

When You send me weights, please include:
Engine family and displacement, part # and breif description (352 connecting
rod, etc), and weight of part. I'd also be curious what You weighed it with.
I suspect the most common device will be "bathroom scale"...

C'mon everyone, I know You've got those motors apart in Your garage! Weigh 'em
up and send me the data! 6 cylinders, Y-blocks, windsors, whatever, lets
get a complete list for the FTE site. Where else can people go to get that
kind
of good info..? (-:

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

Opportunity may knock only once, but temptation
leans on the doorbell.

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Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 23:38:30 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Weight.

>
> I dunno how much the intake manifold weighs for any of these except the FE,
> but an aluminum FE390 intake shaves over 50 lbs off the stock motor which gets
> it down to 575 lbs for a weight/CI of:
>
> FE352 = 1.63 lbs/CI
> FE360 = 1.60 lbs/CI
> FE390 = 1.47 lbs/CI
> FE428 = 1.34 lbs/CI

I remember back in the '70's when the FE was embroiled in the
circle-track wars. On our half-mile asphalt track in Springfield, MO, it
was mostly a Ch*vy small-block show. Except for a few FE's. The
Clevelands ran like hell but blew up and oiled down the front
straightaway with regularity. The muscle parts program died before the
"C" had a chance to bloom without more development in those days. There
was this guy who ran a stout'66 Fairlane with a 390. He didn't win every
week in Late Model against the purpose built Cam Arrows, but he gave
them a run, and would take one here and there. Everyone figured that
there was a bunch of exotic parts in it, because the suspension and
weight distrubution was all that held him back. I've never heard an
engine that sounded like it. If he had a Ch*vy in his teeth coming off a
corner, they were screwed big time. I got to know him, hanging around
the pits. This was his recipe for a strong 390 in a circle-track
application.

'66 to '70 390 block. Machined to perfection. (he was a machinist by
trade). Set up loose with forged 12.5 to 1 pistons. Stock iron crank.
391 truck rods with 200,000 psi. 13/32 rod bolts(these were a
custom-made aerospace item back then and were one of the most expensive
things in the engine). These were a good balance of strength to weight.
He ran a solid cam so the oiling system was set up to maximize the oil
pressure to the bottom-end, and keep it there. The cam was the Ford
Muscle Parts Super Stock cam, and it was the hairiest factory cam ever
made, but I don't know the specs. What astounded me was the heads. 1969
Galaxie premium fuel heads (smaller rounded chambers he said it made
12.95 to 1) with 2.11 intakes and 1.66 exhausts, with just a good clean
up in the pockets, and milled. They were dirt-cheap back then. He said
that runner porting gained nothing. The intake was a single-four barrel
tunnel-wedge Ford intake, the runners were round down to the valve
covers, then went rectangular under the valve cover to the head. The
runners matched the ports on the 390 head just as well as could be. The
ignition was a dual-point with a Mallory coil the size of a lawn mower
battery. The engine ready to drop-in with clutch and bellhousing carb
and alternator, full of oil weighed 605 lbs. A Ch*vy small-block weighed
575 in the same dress. I think that says something about weight. If you
had that engine in a Mustang built with the same degree of
sophistication as the other cars, they wouldn't have had a chance. I
never understood why the FE got the rap for weight(especially equipped
with an aluminum intake)since as you can see it's not much heavier than
a small block. The FE loses more weight than most engines since the
intake is 1/3 of the head, and half of the head over the exhausts are
scalloped away.

That poor guy got torn down every time he won anything. He stayed 5
inches under the cube limit (400). The Ch*vy guys hated him and tried
to wreck him all the time. If he got to the front and didn't have
trouble he had a chance. He never could uderstand why there weren't more
Fords out there, since the car cost 1/2 of what Larry Phillips(the local
big guy) was running. But I could, there were 25 of them and (Phillips
built half of their cars, nothing against him but it would piss you off
some times) and one of you. On a circle-track that will make or break
you. They finally ran him off. The car lost it's eligibility in
Late-Model in '77, and was way too hot for Hobby. He said he was going
to build a Modified and go east.

We had a great track. Mark Martin was the track champion there in 1976,
and worked for Phillips in his shop when he got out of high school
before he went to the big-time. They used to hire a Grand National guy
to come in and try to beat Phillips, and in '76 Martin. I met Martin,
Waltrip, Donnie Allison, Tim Richmond. Dick Trickle came around alot.
Rusty Wallace too. I never knew then that they would be as big as they
are now.

- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr

ldd.net
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 21:50:10 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: FTE 61-79 - One them days.

Cool! A sunny day!

I have been either working or sick or both the last 6 days now and
finally get some good weather and I'm feeling pretty good myself. I
need to catch up with some house work, dishes, laundry that kind of
stuff. I made it as far as the sink when I noticed to my surprise that
the handle was loose. I can fix that so out I go to the garage to fetch
a screwdriver. As the tools are being shuffled on the bench the pile of
leaf springs (77 F-150 4x4 w/hangers) calls over to me " hey, aren't you
gona do something with us?"

"Not today, there is more important stuff to do" I reply.
"Why don't you just see what else you need so that when you do have time
you won't need to run to town?" Them leaf springs are clever critters.

Ok, that sounds reasonable enough, so off I go to look at the truck. I
just can't get a good look with this tire and wheel in the way and off
it comes. What are all these little extra brackets and stuff on here
any way, and I don't think I will be using the overloads anytime soon,
where did I put that torch. Just a quick whack and I will go back and
fix that sink.

About an hour later I have one side of the old rear leaf springs and
hangers torched off, I picked the easy side without all the wires and
brake lines (that was close I forgot all about them). Here I go, so up
goes one of the newer springs and as I am jockeying it around the spring
and the exhaust pipe want to occupy the same space, off with the chrome
tips. Hey that direct dump look right after the rear axle looks good
anyway. Does anyone have one of those old drills that you can lock the
trigger on. Yep, I do and it's called a Thor, and it breaks $14 drill
bits in a hurry when the bit stops in the frame and the drill doesn't.
Not recommended for wrists either. Forgot to look at the Oxy tank
before I started. That needle is either on empty or it's just trying to
play dead and I still have some more metal to cut and the other side of
springs to takes off :( It doesn't look like I got enough grade 8
hardware either.

On the plus side I did get the one side driveable so I can move it about
the drive way, but I made sure to center the wheel in the opening so now
it tracks a little funny in the rear. The flip shackle worked out
pretty good after about 2 hours of trying to make it work. I lost about
1-2" of lift somewhere, but I think I can get that back with a taller
block until I can come up with some spring with more arch, so back end
of the truck has a real bad sag in the right corner :P

It's getting kind of late now so maybe I will get to that sink in the
morning before I work on the truck again.

Now, where did I put the screwdriver?

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon

pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 06:46:20 -0400
From: "Don & Teresa Neighbors"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine Weights, Etc.

I'm tearing down a 239 Y-block (slowly) to rebuild. I can get the weights
of the heads and exhaust very soon, other parts will follow as the job
progresses. It's a good idea, Steve, to create our own table for engine
weights, so I'll help out where I can!

After breaking off an easy-out in a 390 head, AND after drilling a couple
out crooked in a pair of 406 tricarb heads I used to have I took the 390
heads to a machine shop that advertised bolt removal as one of its
services. He used a nifty plasma torch setup that fired tiny little bolts
of plasma at the offending bolts, which disintegrated them, leaving a nice
clean bolt hole after he ran a tap through to clean up loose debri.

The reason the 410/428 engine is balanced differently is due to the 3.98"
stroke of the crank, which did not have sufficient clearance inside the
block to allow internal balancing. Therefore, you need a flywheel or
flexplate and a harmonic balancer that is balanced for the crank, or is
"externally balanced".
It just so happens I have a barely used 428 flexplate that needs a good
home.... Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover

"Any dropped tool or part will automatically fall into the most
innaccesible part of the vehicle."

kyneighbors

kih.net

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 08:01:07 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rake on intakes

Ken writes and Marko has concerns: >>Your comment got me curious since I
picked up a medium riser 4bbl intake at the Pigeon Forge show so I just
checked it out. Its raked. The angle isn't too steep so I suppose and flat
manifold would work. Or as an alternative, someone could get a 4v spacers
and have it machined to the correct angle.

There may be some suttle differences in the rakes and if my memory serves
me correctly the '69 mustang I had with 428 SCJ had a very noticeable rake
to it(for engine tilted front higher than rear). I later ran this intake
on a '76 F150 4X4 with no problems. Some engines do tilt rearward more in
some applications than others, but I would venture to bet that FOMOCO did
not design the intakes for the same engine family differently between the
different rake applications.

I think you can run it OK.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 07:57:45 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking

bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Want to add A/C - 69 parts truck

My apologies if people are seeing multiple copies or this but I seem to be
having email proplems.....

Jeff,
I want the 69 parts truck if Joe doesn't (or if you have other parts).
Since it is missing the engine, does it have the AC compressor and PS
pump? Do you know how compatible the 69 components (AC , PS, Auto)
would be with a 66? I am stating to look forward to a road trip to GA

Again, sorry if you are getting multiple copies but I am unsure what is
being sent and what isn't.

- -Bryan Kirking

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 15:06:00 +0200
From: "Hammell, John"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re:Help!/Advise/Shoulders to Cry on!

Had the same problem in the 72 I had way back when. Changed out the
column twice and had it "rebuilt" with new bearings once. After getting
stranded for the third time pulled off the shift handle and put in a
Hurst floor shifter kit, no more problems. I know this probably isn't
what you wanted to hear, but on the bright side the one I had rebuilt
did last about 2 years. My truck rusted apart shortly after the Hurst
install, but what do you expect for a $70 truck?

Steve Hoyt
62 F100 Unibody 292v2

Steve, thanks for the suggestion, and believe it or not your not the first
person to "steer" me in this direction. I did entertain the idea, that was
untill I found this company out of Houston TX. called Mr. Column, who for
between $100-300 bucks depending upon how sophisticated your column
is(tilt,cruise,all that good stuff) will rebuild it like new, paint it with
original color, and yes even "Guarantee" it, well I guess I should type what
it actually says on their site, "come with a limited lifetime guarantee".
So with a $100.00 deposit off I sent it, UPS with a blessing and a prayer!
By the way, how did that Hurst shifter look in your truck, and wasn't it
kind of "far" to reach to shift(although if it automatic, guess there's not
much shifting!)

Thanks for your help!!

John Hammell
67F250 Camper Special
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 09:36:58 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE cams

Steve writes: >>Hmmm, everything I've read says that the 428CJ cam is the
same part number as the GT390. Somewhere I've got an article that talks
about stock FE cams and gives specs and part # for the GT390/428CJ cam. If
I can find it I'll post it...

You and Ballinger must be reading the same books, because thats basically
what he said. I'm certain my 1/4 mile times were much better with the CJ
cam - no other modifications. Seems that the duration and o'lap were the
same, but the lift was considerably more on the CJ, but I can't remember
for sure and I've thrown away all the printed data I ever had on the FE.

If anyone on here has access to some old Ford Parts books, how about
looking up the P/N's for the cams in the '67GT 390 and the '68/'69
428CJ/SCJ and see if they are the same. I really want to know.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 09:44:49 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: engine weights

> From: sdelanty

sonic.net
> Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 21:35:41 -0700
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: engine weights

> C'mon everyone, I know You've got those motors apart in Your
> garage! Weigh 'em up and send me the data! 6 cylinders, Y-blocks,

You're in for it now buddy! My daughter's going to kill both of us
when she sees her scale I tried to use to weigh the 460 I had lying
around...........:-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 09:56:15 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Question on brakes

> Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 14:36:27 -0800
> From: Don Grossman
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Question on brakes

> Sometimes the front drums are a tight fit to start with and with a
> couple of years of rust build up it can be next to impossible to get
> them off. If the average prying and banging doesn't get them loose
> it just might be eazier to take the hub off and remove the drum from
> the back side. Sorry

I haven't worked on every kind of drum set up there is but I've never
seen one that was designed to come off the (front) hub on the
vehicle? All I've seen were designed to come off by removing the
bearings and to turn them you remove the inner bearing and the race
slips over a tapered arbor on the drum lathe.

Replacing the drum may require removal from the hub, I've never had
to so don't know for sure but I would imagine that removing the drum
from the hub will be a challenge to say the least :-(

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 09:35:31 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: engine weights - Parts parts everywhere

i know how that feels. got a 2 car garage, with no cars in it, just parts. of course, a lot of my parts are still at the store!

sleddog

- ----------
From: dcbeatty[SMTP:dcbeatty

rmi.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 1998 10:08 PM
To: 'Ford Truck'
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: engine weights

Parts parts everywhere except in my truck. Well...there are some in the
back in boxes.

Drew
dcbeatty

rmi.net

....

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