61-79-list-digest Friday, May 22 1998 Volume 02 : Number 299



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - California get together
FTE 61-79 - Re: Whippin' Post, back around to carbs...
Re: FTE 61-79 - Whippin' Post
Re: FTE 61-79 - switching out my distributor

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Date: Fri, 22 May 1998 00:23:40 -0400
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - California get together

> From: Deacon

>I'll be the
> goof-off behind the scenes that gets blamed for everything. :)
>
> Deacon


Ha Ha Ha..... you know what happens when meetings take place and someone
isn't there, THAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN.... you already got unanimously
VOTED/appointed as the West Coast BIG KAHUNA..... Sorry Bro....
hehehehehheheheh I guess you have to take that up with the Kenster.... :)




John Miller, FoMoCoNUT Gibralter.net
96 F-350 Reg Cab XLT, 4x4, 460 w/ A4OD, My Baby "Baloo"
75 F-100 Reg Cab Ranger, 2wd, 360, C6, Daily Driver " Lucy"
and "always" looking ! ! !
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Date: Thu, 21 May 1998 21:56:16 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Whippin' Post, back around to carbs...

>>Deacon, saw your post on carbs. I didn't know you had carb
>>experience. Looks like I started a monsterous thread with
>>my carb question. I'm almost as confused now as I was when
>>I started! I'm probably going to go with the Edelbrock, it
>>sounds like its the easiest to work with.
>
> I wish Chris would get in on this. He sent me information on picking
>a carburetor that was great. I don't want to step on his toes but he has
>some good tips. He likes the Carter and has some good points to show
>why. If Chris isn't on the list anymore I'll e-mail him (or you can) and


If He likes the Carter AFB, He'll like the edelbrock just as well.
They are the same carb, right down to the Weber "W" on the side of the
carb. The carter and edelbrock jets and needles are interchangeable, only
the edelbrock part numbering system for the jets makes more sense...
The shop I bought my edelbrock from sold both e-brock and carter and the
guy plunked both 600cfm ebrock and 600cfm AFB down on the counter in front
of me. Externally they were identical in every way except for the name tag
riveted on the front. Right down to all the casting #'s and detail...
I bought the edelbrock over the carter because they were out of stock on
the AFB with electric choke...
The AFB would have been something like $6 cheaper if they had had it in stock.
Buy whichever one You can get cheapest, cuz dey iz de same animal!
The edelbrock jet numbering system is real easy... subtract 300 from the part
number to get jet diameter in ". I.E: part # "395" = .095". "401"= .101", etc.
The carter #'s require a little application of Your magic decoder ring to
figure out the actual size...
They're both good carbs, designed by Weber, and Weber ain't no slouch when
it comes to making good carbs!

Steve

Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

"When you stop learning, stop listening, stop looking
and asking questions, always new questions,
then it is time to die." -- Lillian Smith

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Date: Thu, 21 May 1998 23:53:38 -0600
From: Ryan Dorman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Whippin' Post

Deacon wrote:

Thank God! If I had to put up with 2 of me I'd go nuts. Wait, I am
nuts. I'd have no place to go! "/ \" I'd be trapped somewhere between

> sanity and insanity, My God, I would be the worlds first person that was
> mentally unsane!!! they would lock me up in an unsane asylum, put me in
> a bent jacket!!! Wait, this isn't happening, It's all in my head.
> Lizards can't talk. Lizards can't talk. Lizards can't talk. OK I'm
> better now! :)

I understand your dimensia (Recovering evil bowtie victom. That was a little
over a year ago and I'm feeling much better now)... And oh I hate to tell
you but you might want to rethink your unsanity, as I have heard lizards
talk.(I think it was a discussion about bumping of some frogs)...

;-}

(prepareing to duck)
- --
58 F-100 292 sb 2wd
85 Bronco 300 IL6 4x4
97 F-150 4.6 sb ext cab 4x4
(and several others in progress)
- --
KC7YPJ, Ryan Dorman
QTH: Victor ID, grid# DN431c
ICQ #3834602
kc7ypj pdt.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Dunes/5496


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Date: Thu, 21 May 1998 22:49:18 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - switching out my distributor

From: Jesus Cardoso
> I have never switched out a distributor.....Is there anything that
>I need to be careful about? I am just worried about screwing something
>up. I read the Chiltons manual and it seemed pretty straight
>forward....I am suppose to mark the position of the rotor and the
position
>of the distributor with respect to the block, remove the old the
>distributor, drop in the new one, and set the timing. Does anyone know
>at what degree the timing is suppose to be set at in a '63 292, the
manual
>said 6 degrees at 600 rpm?

Hey Chuy, piece of cake. Here's my recommendations.
First get the new distributor ready and if your planning new cap
rotor spark plugs and wires, either do it now or after the truck is
running. Don't do it at the same time because you want to know the truck
runs with a known setup. Now to the truck. With a marks a lot, mark the
old distributor on the outer case where the #1 post is on the
distributor cap. Remove the distributor cap leaving the spark plug wires
connected, move it out of the way (use some string to tie it back if you
need to) and bump the engine around until the rotor lines up with the
mark on the outer case and your timing mark is at TDC. Now landmark your
distributor case. Use the vacuum line or the wire that goes to the coil
(you'll want to install the new distributor in a like manner). Remove
the wire to the coil, vacuum line and the retaining bolt & bracket.
Remove the distributor (it may be a bitch it may not) note the direction
and distance the rotor moves as the distributor comes out to give you an
idea where to start the rotor so it will line up at the #1 post. Put the
distributor cap on the new distributor and using your marks a lot, mark
the outer case at the location of the #1 post and remove the distributor
cap. Clean and lube the hole and distributor mating flange. With the
case landmark in mind the rotation of the rotor the distance it will
travel, stab the sucker. If the rotor doesn't lineup with your mark lift
the distributor just enough to be able to turn the rotor the distance it
was off and restab that sucker. Repeat as necessary. Connect the wire to
the coil, the vacuum line and install the retaining bolt & bracket (no
need to torque it now just run it down so the distributor can turn
freely but not jump out of the hole when you start the engine). put on
the distributor cap (remember the rotor) and you should be able to start
the engine. If it starts, time it to what the manual says and torque the
retaining bolt.
You should be fine but if everything turns to crap (must have a plan
for this) you have a fail safe. remove the distributor cap, bump the
engine until the rotor lines with your mark on the outer case and your
timing mark is at TDC and switch distributors and try starting the
engine. If the engine starts check your new distributor for correct
installation, whatever. If it won't start look around for what ever it
was that fell off or forgot to reconnect. You don't need to worry about
this last stuff because your not going to need it. It's a comfort zone.
Good luck. Let us know the difference in how the engine runs.
Later!

Deacon
deconblu gte.net
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Nuke the unborn baby whales.
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Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/



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