61-79-list-digest Monday, June 15 1998 Volume 02 : Number 341



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Rear End/Limited Slip
FTE 61-79 - Re: Diamond Cutting Wheels
FTE 61-79 - Re: Barn Project, lift, DONE!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Diamond Cutting Wheels
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Diamond Cutting Wheels
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Diamond Cutting Wheels
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Diamond Cutting Wheels
FTE 61-79 - truck pictures of the new pull truck
FTE 61-79 - pictures - web site
FTE 61-79 - Saw a ton of 67-72's in Las Vegas
FTE 61-79 - 73f150 parts truck
Re: FTE 61-79 - 73f150 parts truck
FTE 61-79 - D2VE Heads
FTE 61-79 - 66 F100 4X4 Draglink replacement
Re: FTE 61-79 - 73f150 parts truck
Re: FTE 61-79 - fuel guage
Re: FTE 61-79 - fuel guage
RE: FTE 61-79 - 73f150 parts truck
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End/Limited Slip
FTE 61-79 - Re: 1964 f-100 AKA "Cinderella"
RE: FTE 61-79 - fuel guage
RE: FTE 61-79 - D2VE Heads
FTE 61-79 - Re: disk brakes conversion/ 73? parts truck
Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Mail volume
FTE 61-79 - Weight
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: disk brakes conversion/ 73? parts truck
FTE 61-79 - id tags
FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79- 400 to 460 conversion
FTE 61-79 - Engine stands & safety
FTE 61-79 - Question on Fe's
FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands!!!
FTE 61-79 - Real 4WD
FTE 61-79 - "64 F100 (I think).
Re: FTE 61-79 - "64 F100 (I think).
RE: FTE 61-79 - fuel guage
FTE 61-79 - Bead Locks
RE: FTE 61-79 - fuel guage
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands!!!

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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 10:36:33 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear End/Limited Slip

I see where someone is trying to decide which differential to put in. I just
went through this process and figured that I would mention a few things I
learned along the way, at least for the Dana axles. Dana makes something
called a "Trac-Lok" (which I have in my front Dana 44) which has clutches, but
is the "milder" of their two limited slip designs. It has only two spider
gears. They also make the "Power-Lok", which is what I'm using in my rear Dana
60. It also uses clutches, but it appears to be a little more "heavy-duty"
since it has four spider gears and from what I'm told, its a little more
aggressive as far as providing traction.

I spent a lot of time talking to people, and getting quite a few excellent
responses from this list, and decided that I really didn't want any "popping"
or "clunking" in the turns (on the street) that seems to associated with most
lockers. I should mention that I don't aggressively thrash my truck anymore in
the mountains (I use a dirt bike for that stuff now, this makes it easier to
chase the baby deer) so I didn't need the excellent traction provided by the
lockers. These limited slips appear to work pretty well, and I'll learn more
this winter.

There are some manufacturers of so-called "soft-lockers" that are supposed to
give locker performance without any "clunking". I think the one I heard most
about was made by someone called "Lock-Rite" or something like this. According
to the manufacturer, they do indeed work as claimed, but they noted (over the
phone) that people with manual transmissions may experience a slight "clunk"
when starting from a dead stop as the differential engages. The biggest reason
I didn't go with them is that they didn't have one for my Dana 60, but, again,
the prospect of a "clunk" or "pop" just didn't appeal to me anymore. I've had
so many clunks and pops over the years in my drivetrain, including snapped
front axle shafts and one "pop" that blew my Dana 21 transfer case in half,
that I'm content with a smooth-operating limited-slip.

So, I don't know if this helps, but the best way to make the decision is to
get all the feedback you can from this list, call two or three manufacturers,
call two or three suppliers (these guys are often helpful because they know
often units are returned or complained about) and then just do what you
probably wanted to do in the first place anyway! Then, you'll have some good
advise for the next guy.....

Good Luck,

Colorado Jeff















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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 09:50:19 -0700
From: Marv Miller
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Diamond Cutting Wheels

"Gary, 78 BBB" wrote, in part:
- Barn Project, lift, DONE! :-)
> The contractor said not to sweep the floor but to hose it out after
> he used a diamond coated saw to cut the control joints because it
> would etch the floor.

[with the residual diamond particles]?

My experience with diamond cutting wheels would indicate that those
diamonds are permanently bonded to the wheel, and should not come off.
It would get pretty expensive for your contractor to have it any other
way. Anything on your floor should be only concerte dust.

Congrats on the new hoist! Let's see pics soon.

- -Marv-
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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 09:54:50 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Barn Project, lift, DONE!

Gary wrote about his new concrete floor:

> I hosed it down but the stuff just wasn't moving very well so I used
> a push broom to move the stuff out the door while keeping it wet. My
> experience with cutting mediums makes me believe I did no damage to
> the floor this way but there's still a question in my head on this??

That's OK Gary, if you did etch it, it's ready for a nice epoxy finish!
I know a few friends that have done this. Looks nice, keeps the dust
down (concrete sheds 'dust' forever), cleaning up oil spills is a lot
easier! And . . . (FTC) the Bronco will look really good on it!

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, "Cold, Cloudy" California

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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 12:08:14 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Diamond Cutting Wheels

At 11:50 AM 6/13/98 , you wrote:
>My experience with diamond cutting wheels would indicate that those
>diamonds are permanently bonded to the wheel, and should not come off.
>It would get pretty expensive for your contractor to have it any other
>way. Anything on your floor should be only concerte dust.
>-Marv-

Do those diamond cutting wheels ever have to be replaced?

Mike

________________________________________
Email: mschwall texas.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net

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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 13:18:52 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Diamond Cutting Wheels

> Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 09:50:19 -0700
> From: Marv Miller
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Diamond Cutting Wheels

> My experience with diamond cutting wheels would indicate that those
> diamonds are permanently bonded to the wheel, and should not come
> off. It would get pretty expensive for your contractor to have it
> any other way. Anything on your floor should be only concerte dust.

The type of wheel he used is called in my trade "plated wheel" which
is basically one layer of diamond grit in a nickel or copper base,
fused to the steel wheel or saw blade. The ones I normally use are
consumable aluminum or copper core, resin bond grinding wheels which
we call "super abraisives" and which are designed to break down over
time and need re-trueing but not like normal grinding wheels you
might see on a bench grinder. They are much tougher and break down
slowly and even with these the diamond accumulation relative to the
work being done is very small.

I may have been jumping to the wrong conclusion since as you say
there would be little diamond dust to cover such a large floor so
maybe since the floor is still green (poured Monday) the stone chips
may scratch the smooth surface he worked so hard to get for me??

I'm so excited about this I may just waste part of a roll of film to
get them developed this week end or maybe take pictures of all my
wifes flowers or the trees or the neighbors or......:-)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 13:27:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Diamond Cutting Wheels

> Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 12:08:14 -0500
> From: Mike Schwall
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Diamond Cutting Wheels

> >My experience with diamond cutting wheels would indicate that those
> >diamonds are permanently bonded to the wheel, and should not come
> >off. It would get pretty expensive for your contractor to have it
> >any other way. Anything on your floor should be only concerte
> >dust. -Marv-
>
> Do those diamond cutting wheels ever have to be replaced?

Yes, the diamond is only one layer and bonded with nickel or copper
to the steel. Len said he gets about 500 linear feet out of one
before it quits cutting. I've used a similar product for special
form grinding when the form is more important than the cost of
grinding since once any part of the form is worn off the wheel has to
be replated and if you don't catch it before it actually gets to the
core the core is scrap. In the case of a cut off saw the core is not
worth much so you just buy another wheel rather than replating it.

They last about twice as long if you use water to cool the blade as
it cuts which is how the industrial floor cutting saws work. Len
used a skill saw with 7-1/4" diamond blade but I think he runs his
dry. He said he paid about $80 per blade.


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 13:35:36 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Diamond Cutting Wheels

> From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
> Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 13:18:52 +0000
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Diamond Cutting Wheels

> The type of wheel he used is called in my trade "plated wheel" which
> is basically one layer of diamond grit in a nickel or copper base,
> fused to the steel wheel or saw blade. The ones I normally use are

P.S. forgot to mention that you never use a diamond abrasive (as
opposed to a single point diamond) tool, either cut off saw or
grinding wheel, on materials containing Iron. When heated the
diamond will conbine with the iron to produce iron carbides and erode
the diamond away very quickly, chemically, not by abrasion. On stone
or non ferous materials especially carbon based materials it holds up
very well.

A wheel which lasts for months on carbide will be completely
destroyed in a few days on steel due to this chemical action.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 18:24:49 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: FTE 61-79 - truck pictures of the new pull truck

hello to all who have been following my new pull truck buildup.
i have pictures up at my web pages now. these picture are from the
previous owner when he ran the truck so ill will post the newer pictures
when i get them. right now i would rather put my time in working on the
truck/engine.

i hope to send some o Ken at a later date to post at FTE. for now though,
he is very busy so i'll wait. anyway, here's the address:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/7273/

enjoy, and let me know what you think.

later days
sleddog

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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 18:28:03 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: FTE 61-79 - pictures - web site

sorry, seems that the jpg's arn't coming up. i will try to fix it.

sleddog



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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 20:43:19 -0400
From: Joe DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Saw a ton of 67-72's in Las Vegas

Hey group,
I just got back from Las vegas and I'm not sure if anybody on here
is from there but I counted 12 67-72 Trucks, 2 63's and an Old
ranchero...ANybody???The one that sticks out the most was a 68
canary yellow truck with chrome baby moon hubcaps...
- --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 20:56:22 EDT
From: Trs2000 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 73f150 parts truck

Does anyone know if a 73f100 came stock with power brakes and power steering?

Does anyone need parts from this truck?
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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 18:02:17 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 73f150 parts truck

From: Trs2000 aol.com
>Does anyone know if a 73f100 came stock with power brakes and power
steering?

Mine did.

>Does anyone need parts from this truck?

Depends on where your at, what you have and what you want for it. The
only thing I'm looking for or going to make is a headliner.

Deacon
deconblu gte.net
=============================
Nuke the unborn baby whales.
=============================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/



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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 18:41:32 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 61-79 - D2VE Heads

Hello, I am beginning building on a '72 429 motor for my '61 F-100 4x4.
I has the D2VE heads. They appear to be low compression but also low
quench. Since I will be turboing this motor I would like to know if I
can expect any boost at all on these without detonation or if I would be
better of with another set. I would like to go about 8 lbs at 5500 rpm
max.

Birken T. Vogt - KE6DLT
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Date: Wed, 07 Jul 1993 09:42:29 -0700
From: ztalon ix.netcom.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 F100 4X4 Draglink replacement

Folks , I'm lookimg for some information and help on replacing the
Draglink on my 1966 F-100 4X4. I'm looking for information from someone
who has run into the problem I describe below, and what their solution
was. I am interested in a possible replacement pitman arm or to know if
anyone has had the old pitman arm reamed out for for use with the
replacement draglink.

The replacement draglink listed by TRW and Moog, Part# DS-811, although
correct in length, diameter and direction the studs face, does not come
with the correct size ballstud for connection to the pitman arm. This
draglink is listed as a replacemnt for 65-71 trucks using the Dana 44
front axle.
The original draglink that came with the truck has a removable ballstud
on the end that attaches to the pitman arm. The draglink has a cylinder
at the pitman arm end and the ballstud is held inplace inside the
cylinder via a threaded plug. The plug screws into the end of the
cylinder and places the stud under tension via springs installed on
either side of the stud. I am told that this method of construction was
deleted because of safety problems.

All replies will be appreciated Thanks in advance Rick
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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 23:19:54 EDT
From: Trs2000 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 73f150 parts truck

I'm located in chicago. The truck runs I think it's a 351 with an auto trans.

I'm going to take the brakes and steering parts the rest I don't really need.

The truck is rusty. I don't want a lot for parts, Just to reduce the cost of
the parts i need since i'm buying the whole truck.

mtr & trans $100.00 maybe?
I'll have to see what kind of deal I make........
Dennis




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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 01:07:50 EDT
From: POLING4 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - fuel guage

Hey, Me 72 F-100 does the same thing, right after I fill it all the way up the
fuel gauge reads 3/4. Please send help on this situation.

Thanxs for the hepl....


POLING4 aol.com
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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 11:46:41 GMT
From: wayside cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - fuel guage

On Sun, 14 Jun 1998 01:07:50 EDT, you wrote:

>Hey, Me 72 F-100 does the same thing, right after I fill it all the way =
up the
>fuel gauge reads 3/4. Please send help on this situation.
>
>Thanxs for the hepl....
>
>
>POLING4 aol.com

My '71 does this also; the original owner said it was like that when he
bought from the dealer.
Rob
'71 F100, 360 4Spd "The Old One"
'78 F250, 4X4 400 C6 "The Brick"
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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 06:00:36 -0500
From: "Bear"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 73f150 parts truck

Deacon,
I wanted to redo the headliner in my 78 and all I did was took the card
board down and put automotive carpet on it and put it back up I get allot of
compliments on how nice it looks...


- -----Original Message-----
From: Deacon: Trs2000 aol.com

Depends on where your at, what you have and what you want for it. The
only thing I'm looking for or going to make is a headliner.


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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 06:49:09 -0500
From: "Bear"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End/Limited Slip

Thank You to every one for there in put I have learned a little more on this
subject and it well help me when I decide what to do with my rear end!
Thanks
Shane

E-mail : bear269 sparc.isl.net
Please view my home page at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.isl.net/~bear269/home

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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 09:29:33 -0500 (CDT)
From: tygre iglobal.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1964 f-100 AKA "Cinderella"

Does anyone out there have the technical schematics for this truck? I have
the shop manual but I need more detailed information such as bolt sizes and
visual perspective for reassembly. When I got the truck the previous owner
had completly broken it down to diagnose the motor. What I was left with
was cardboard boxes of scattered parts in the bed of the truck. I have had
the 223 moter rebuilt and have reconditioned most of the other components.
My problem is that I did not see the parts in their original places and I
think I am missing several bolts and maybe even a few brackets. Can anyone
help "Cinderella" dance again?

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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 10:59:34 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - fuel guage

my 77 does too, sort of, it reads 1/4 or so full. and it is going back on the street now so i would like to fix it.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Rob Patelke[SMTP:wayside cyberhighway.net]
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 1998 7:46 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - fuel guage

On Sun, 14 Jun 1998 01:07:50 EDT, you wrote:

>Hey, Me 72 F-100 does the same thing, right after I fill it all the way up the
>fuel gauge reads 3/4. Please send help on this situation.



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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 10:57:27 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - D2VE Heads

turbo 429! wild!

i would think that since turbo is your deal you are looking for more power.
so think about a set of aluminum SVO or blue thunder heads. they are
worth an easy 100 hp bolt on (approximatly of course YMMV) and being
aluminum can help reduce detonation tendencies. you need lower compression
than a 72 429 i suspect. what CR are you figuring on?

the quench is a good thing to have, and ALL 385 heads have a quench area
including the infamous boss 429 semi-hemi head.

in the end, what ever head you use you can change the CR by using a deeper
or less dished piston. good idea to get the CR you want with a flattop
single eyebrow piston though. about 8.5:1 on late 70's heads. the
flattops promote better flame travel/combustion.

no matter what head you use you will need to smooth and polish the
combustion chambers and cc the heads equally. if you do this well, a 385
cast iron head on a NA engine can take 11.5:1 on high quality gas (once
again, this was my engine, YMMV) so i imagine a turbo with 8 psi boost and
a 8.0:1 compression ratio could work, and especially well if you use the CJ
size valves and some kind of intercooler to keep the intake charge temp
down. i recommend the CJ size valve on at least the exhaust side if cost
is a factor.

my understanding of turbo's includes that the exhaust port restriction is
more important to a turbo than the intake. if this is the case i suggest
some attention paid to the ports and bowls, getting rid of the thermactor
port is a minimum for even a very mild 429/460 build IMHO. the best thing
you could do though is get a set of blue thunder heads with the BB chevy
exhaust ports - which would possibly make it easier to adapt the turbo any
way as more people have done it to that engine than the ford BB, and more
aftermarket support.

blue thunder's homepage:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bluethunderauto.com/

this sound interesting, you can e-mail me privatatly if you wish to discuss
fmore. i have no turbo on a BB experience, only little engines, but i have
done alot of head resaerch on the 385 series and might be able to help if
you need it.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Vogt Family[SMTP:vogt oro.net]
Sent: Saturday, June 13, 1998 9:41 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - D2VE Heads

Hello, I am beginning building on a '72 429 motor for my '61 F-100 4x4.
I has the D2VE heads. They appear to be low compression but also low
quench. Since I will be turboing this motor I would like to know if I
can expect any boost at all on these without detonation or if I would be
better of with another set. I would like to go about 8 lbs at 5500 rpm
max.

Birken T. Vogt - KE6DLT
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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 12:34:56 EDT
From: Trs2000 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: disk brakes conversion/ 73? parts truck

I just took a look at the 73 f150 and the title calls it a 73 but the
manufacture date is 11/72 I wanted the truck for the ps and spindles to
convert it. I was wondering why a 70-72 with disk won't work? Is the setup a
lot different? It looks pretty similiar to me.


Thanks in advance

Dennis
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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 08:59:23 -0700
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Mail volume

At 10:15 AM 5/23/98 -0400, you wrote:
>As many of you realize, I don't interfere with the content of the
>list and it stays pretty relaxed. Just remember to practice some
>self-discipline and it can continue to stay relaxed.


This came off a list I'm on, thought it might be appropriate. (please forgive if it came off this one, I can't recall...)

"The Ten Commandments of E-mail"

Thou shalt include a clear and specific subject line.

Thou shalt edit any quoted text down to the minimum thou needest.

Thou shalt read thine own message thrice before thou sendest it.

Thou shalt ponder how thy recipient might react to thy message.

Thou shalt check thy spelling and thy grammar.

Thou shalt not curse, flame, spam or USE ALL CAPS.

Thou shalt not forward any chain letter.

Thou shalt not use e-mail for any illegal or unethical purpose.

Thou shalt not rely on the privacy of e-mail, especially from work.

When in doubt, save thy message overnight and reread it in the light of the dawn.

And, here's the "Golden Rule" of E-Mail:
That which thou findest hateful to receive, sendest thou not unto others.




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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 14:14:26 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Weight

I don't know what the 460 weighs, but the FE weighs 650 lbs with the
cast-iron intake, about 610 with an aluminum intake. My brother-in-law
says that the 460 weighs at least 750, about the same as a BB Ch**y.

Billy and I went to DuQuoin to the Street Nachine Nats Saturday, did
anyone else? Billy saw his first bare pair for his 16th birthday.
(actually 3 fine pair at the same time!) Can anyone say "sensory
overload"? The cars were mighty fine, with more trucks than I've seen in
the past. Still putting Ch**y engines in most of them, though. Improving
,a little at a time.

I found a good link that covers many Ford engines, some cool pictures
too. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net

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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 13:06:46 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: disk brakes conversion/ 73? parts truck

Pretty much all vehicles with a manufacture date after July/Aug are going
to be the next years model.

- ----------
> From: Trs2000 aol.com
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: disk brakes conversion/ 73? parts truck
> Date: Sunday, June 14, 1998 9:34 AM
>
> I just took a look at the 73 f150 and the title calls it a 73 but the
> manufacture date is 11/72 I wanted the truck for the ps and spindles to
> convert it. I was wondering why a 70-72 with disk won't work? Is the
setup a
> lot different? It looks pretty similiar to me.
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 15:14:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: Jesus Cardoso
Subject: FTE 61-79 - id tags

Howdy!

Can anyone give any hints on how I can get a replacement ID tag
for my truck. One of the previous owners replaced the driver's side door
on my 63 F100 and did not put the tag on the new door.
By the way....as I told everyone earlier this month, I
replaced the distributor on my 292 and I also put a Petronix electronic
conversion kit. Well just the other day I put a Flame Thrower 40,000 V
coil (also made by Petronix) on Ginger (I named my truck that because
she's red). I am very happy with this upgrade! It has made my truck run
smoother and it has more power at higher RPMs. I just thought I would
share my excitement with you all.

Thanks for all the support.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy
Graduate Research Assistant (Power System Automation Lab)
Dept. of Electrical Engineering, Texas A&M University
College Station, TX 77843-3128
h: 409-775-0737, w: 409-845-4623, fax: 409-845-6259
Personal Address: P.O. Box 2214, College Station, TX 77841-2214
e-mail: cardoso ee.tamu.edu, url: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ee.tamu.edu/~cardoso



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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 16:34:39 EDT
From: A64F100 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79- 400 to 460 conversion

Well, I'm finally almost ready to drop the 460 in. But there is one thing
puzzling me... I know It was brought up before, a few times, but once again,
what needs to be done to adapt the 460 motor mounts to the 400 mounts? Do any
mounts need to be moved? Can I just buy the 460 mounts and bolt them to the
mounts I custom made? The mounts that are in the truck were welded in by a
friend and myself and basically were made to mate up with the 400, so, I'm
assuming they will have to be modified.
Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

Later,
Scott L

*Keep It Ford Blue*
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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 14:38:58 PDT
From: "Dave Walbeck"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine stands & safety

Hi All,
I hope I'm not to late on this one. Those cheap ( around 50.00 to
70.00 $ ) engine stands are NOT WORTH THE MONEY. They won't hold a big
block worth a damn. Another thing to think about is if you are working
by yourself with a cheap stand your going to have a helluva time turning
the motor over with out the risk of tipping it over on yourself ( Almost
happened to me) I don't think 750+ pounds would feel to good laying on
top of you especially if no one is around to help take it off of your
crushed body. I bought one of Harbor Freights 2000lb stands. Man It was
well worth it (100.00), It was so worth it that when they had them on
sale for 80 bucks I wen't and bough 2 more.
These stands have double legs and are so strong you can bounce on the
front of the motor after it's on the stand and it hardly even moves.
And the motor doesn't sag when you put it on the stand either.
So if you ask me even if you are only going to use it once get the big
one, I'm sure you could sell it after your done with it for no less than
a 20 buck loss if you even have to take a loss( not bad for using it as
long as you need it)


Dave Complete and Total FORDNUT, Highboy Nut, & FE Nut Too!!!!!!


______________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 20:58:18 -0400
From: Joe DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Question on Fe's

I just purchased a 67 390 and it was hooked to a C-6 auto
My question is do I need to switch the harmonic dampner since
my 4 speed flywheel is heavier then the flex plate for the auto and
the dampners look differnt from my stick motor and the auto motor
- --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 21:01:58 -0400
From: Joe DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands!!!

Heres somethin...
I just put my 390 on my neighbors 4 legged stand and the stand just bent
over!!!!!!!!!!It has a sticker on it rated for 1440lbs...
Time to buy a real engine stand!!!
- --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 18:31:25 -0700
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Real 4WD

>From a review of the AWD Volvo V70XC:


Despite the obvious differences between an all-wheel drive wagon and a=
four-wheel drive SUV, Volvo is intent on pitching this car against very=
rugged vehicles such as the Jeep Grand Cherokee and Mercedes-Benz ML320.=
Part of this ruggedness pitch to journ alists included a photo-op where we=
could gently pull the Volvo into a shallow stream and have pictures taken=
with the car running through bumper-deep water. Cosmo Joe failed to=
recognize that our Volvo wagon differed significantly from a Range Rover,=
an d decided that he was going to ford a considerably deeper part of the=
stream than the Volvo PR staff had intended. Just as I began to say, 'I=
don't think this is a good idea,' a wicked shudder went through the car and=
I felt what Roy Scheider's character must have felt when Jaws first smashed=
into his rickety old boat. A quiet laugh escaped Joe as he said, "I think=
we're stuck." "Try rocking her out," was my half-hearted advice on how to=
remove this car from what felt like a river rock equal in size to the isle=
of Manhattan. After a few back-and-forths of the old gearshift selector, it=
became obvious that we weren't going to get unstuck without first getting=
wet.=20

Despite the lovely summer weather, I felt certain that I would lose a few=
toes while standing in this amazingly cold glacial stream for an hour while=
trying to push, pull, and pray our way to drier ground. Joe and I weren't=
the only ones enjoying the fun , as many other journalists and Volvo execs=
were standing on the shore when we slammed into the semi-submerged mountain=
with all of the grace of Captain Hazelwood after a three-day bender. The=
befuddled expressions on our audience's faces left us with li ttle doubt=
that we must look like the biggest idiots this side of Prince William Sound=
when we stumbled out of the XC and sheepishly shrugged our shoulders in=
humbled embarrassment. We eventually had about half of the Volvo staff and=
one-third of the ass embled journalists in the water with us, each giving=
conflicting advice on how to free the beached Volvo. For the record, it=
took two tow chains and a Ford F-350, handily provided by a=
laughing-his-ass-off local who happened upon this picture, several at=
tempts to free our stranded vehicle.=20





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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 22:02:41 -0500
From: "Nils Gore"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - "64 F100 (I think).

I just bought a 1964 F100. The title (a Mississippi replacement title dated
1996) says 1964, but the grill on the truck and the headliner inside
correspond more to 1965 or 66. This may seem like a silly question, but is
there a way to definitively tell the model from the truck itself?

The grill could be a later replacement; the headliner looks original. I've
searched the truck over, but can't find anything besides the VIN on the
door plate: #F10CD554020. I suppose it's possible that this door could have
come from off of another truck as well, although the old paint showing
through looks the same as the remainder of the truck.

Can anyone advise me somewhere else to look on the truck for date
information?

Thanks,

Nils
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Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 21:41:37 -0700
From: "Dave & Debby Anderson"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - "64 F100 (I think).

Your vin would seem to fit what you know of the truck:

F10 - 2 wd F100
C - 292 2v
D - Dallas assembly plant
554020 - consec. unit #, assembled in 6/64

I think '64 was the last year for the straight front axle and all '65's were
twin I beam; I'm sure someone on the list will know for sure.

Dave


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 23:45:26 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - fuel guage

>>Hey, Me 72 F-100 does the same thing, right after I fill it all the way up the
>>fuel gauge reads 3/4. Please send help on this situation.

My '71 F100 is like this also.
When I got it, it read full with a full tank. But when it read 1/4 tank You
were out of gas and walking... (don't ask):
I bent the float arm on the sender and now it is accurate when it's empty,
but reads 3/4 when the tank's full. Sigh...
I think the length of the float arm needs to be shortened so that a given
amount of drop in fuel level gives more degrees of rotation on the sender.
When I get a chance I'm going to try bending an "S" in the arm to shorten
the float to pivot distance about 20% and see what happens. I think with a
little fooling around with the length and angle of the arm that the gauge
could be made to read fairly accurate at both ends of the scale...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

Opportunity may knock only once, but temptation
leans on the doorbell.

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Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 02:25:52 -0500
From: "Michael R. Masse"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bead Locks

Help!
Wheeling this weekend proved that aired-down 16.5" wheels just don't
work so great. I popped a bead with over 20lbs still in it on an
obstacle I know my 15's could've handled easily with less pressure. I
need bead locks but I don't know much about them.

Do I have to buy specialized wheels that are already setup for this?
Jegs shows some for 15" wheels but I can't tell how they really work.
Do the screws go into the tire bead, or do they go behind the bead to
keep it from sliding back. Do you have to use special tires? I saw a
couple of trucks that had them this weekend and it looked to me like
there were just screws going into the outer edges of the rims. If the
screws go into the tire bead itself, does this weaken the tire? Anyone
here use these?

-Mike
-78 Bronco
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 07:48:29 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - fuel guage

> From: sdelanty sonic.net
> Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 23:45:26 -0700
> Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - fuel guage

> >>Hey, Me 72 F-100 does the same thing, right after I fill it all
> >>the way up the fuel gauge reads 3/4. Please send help on this
> >>situation.
>
> tank You were out of gas and walking... (don't ask): I bent the
> float arm on the sender and now it is accurate when it's empty, but
> reads 3/4 when the tank's full. Sigh... I think the length of the

They work on an "impedance" scale so I think what happens is the coil
it rubs on gets shorted or open and part of it quits working. My
bronco is the first ford truck I've had that actually works right. I
have the wrong tank in the pickup and found that the angle I mount
the tank has a profound effect but I think most of us have worn out
senders. That of course is just a guess. If you can in fact get a
zero and a full reading out of the sender then adjusting the float
may be the answer. All you need to test it is an ohm meter and the
specs (which I don't have in front of me). It should be analog
between the high and low spec and more or less linear as I understand
it?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 08:03:53 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands!!!

> Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 21:01:58 -0400
> From: Joe DeLaurentis
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands!!!

> I just put my 390 on my neighbors 4 legged stand and the stand just
> bent over!!!!!!!!!!It has a sticker on it rated for 1440lbs... Time
> to buy a real engine stand!!! -- Joe Aka. Fordguy 1968 F-100 4x4 302

How much actual force is applied to the front hub of a bronco on
impact with a deep chuck hole at 60 mph? I figured it was more than
any damage I could inflict with a 460 haning off the end even with
the added leverage so I made one using a spare spindle and hub I had
off of a drum brake axle. I just made a rectangle out of 2x3....


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