Re: FTE 61-79 - Guage Help

61-79-list-digest Friday, May 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 320

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Guage Help
Re: FTE 61-79 - brake probs
FTE 61-79 - manifold vs. ported, was FE timing question
FTE 61-79 - Clothespins on fuel lines-was Vapor Lock Definition
Re: FTE 61-79 - 62 F100, Elec. Problems
FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake light update
FTE 61-79 - Re: Gauge Help
RE: FTE 61-79 - Cold miss
Re: FTE 61-79 - manifold vs. ported, was FE timing question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake light update
Re: FTE 61-79 - Clothespins on fuel lines-was Vapor Lock Definit
FTE 61-79 - Sonoma county gas
Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI on a '73 302
Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Clarification
FTE 61-79 - SunPro tach question
Re: FTE 61-79 - SunPro tach question
FTE 61-79 - 9" rear spline questions?(1962)
Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear spline questions?(1962)
FTE 61-79 - EFI
Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear spline questions?(1962)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel
Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI
FTE 61-79 - Re: 460 in 4x4
FTE 61-79 - 68 Truck rim size????
Re: FTE 61-79 - SunPro tach question

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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 08:53:14 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Guage Help

>All of the guages in my '70 F-100 don't work, and I've tried two other
>dashes without luck. I would like to test the sending units to find out
>wether the problem is in the wiring, or in the actual sensors themselves,
>so I was wondering if somebody could give me the Ohm, Volt, or whatever
>range for the Temp, Oil Pressure, and Fuel guage sending units. Thanks a
>bunch!

If none of the gauges work, it sounds like a power or ground connection
that's common to the whole cluster. There's also a little metal box that's
a voltage regulator for the cluster. Yours may be roasted...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

Opportunity may knock only once, but temptation
leans on the doorbell.

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aol.com
> Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 18:09:41 EDT
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - brake probs

> i use to have to pump the brakes in my truck due to air in the lines
> ( i know i need to bleed the brakes). lately the brakes have
> improved, on their own. How come? i checked the wheel cylinders and
> no fluid is leaking out. did the air make it back up to the master
> cylinder? Can anybody explain this one?

I've noticed that sometimes mine get firmer after bleeding till I'm
bleeding but can't get it all out too. My bronco has been mushy from
day one and the other day a made a panic stop and now they are much
firmer. Maybe it's the additional pedal travel that allows more room
for the bubble to get out or the pressure forces the bubble past the
seals in the MC, don't know but I'll take what ever I can get :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 11:23:33 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - manifold vs. ported, was FE timing question

>> Usually You don't want vacuum at idle.
>> Port on the left....
>
>Can someone splain this to me??
>
I explain by saying I don't agree with this statement. You want as much
advance as you can get at idle, so I say start by using manifold vacuum. I
know I am going to have to get into a big discussion again here because a
lot of folks don't really know the difference between ported and manifold
but I'll assume for now that you all do. So, as Gary pointed out, since
the mixture is fairly lean at idle and there is no load, maximum advance
will make your engine more efficient on fuel here and run cooler to boot.
So you start out with manifold and see if you can use it. The thing that
would prevent this from working out would be if you cannot then lower your
idle speed enough to keep the engine from running-on after the key is
turned off (since the added advance has now increased the idle speed it
must be adjusted to spec). If this is the case then you go to ported
vacuum but this is the only situation that I can think of why you would
wanted ported instead of manifold (and if it was me I'd try to slow the
engine down first by leaning out the mixture and see if that will help
before you give up on manifold vacuum).
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss

inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 11:22:18 -0500
From: Jim Pointer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Clothespins on fuel lines-was Vapor Lock Definition

>> I don't think it's that simple. A heat sink only works when the
>> heat is being produced internally and wants to get out. The problem
>> with the metal fuel line is that the heat is coming from an
>> external source. A heat sink, by it's definition, would make the
>> problem WORSE by providing more area for the heat to be absorbed.
>> It has something to do with it being wood because plastic ones don't
>> work.
>I agree, it's not about heat sinking but may be related. Perhaps
>it's the water saturation capacity wood naturally has and as the
>stored water evaporates it cools the wood which then absorbs more of
>the heat from the line which then...........don't know but sounds
>feaseable to me. Another thing it does is damp vibration but I don't
>think vapor lock is typically associated with vibration???

Which way should the clothespin be pointed? Towards the engine
or away from it? I guess I was figuring it had to do with heat
transfer,
so maybe "heat sink" is an incorrect term in this context. Maybe
more of a "heat collector." The wood would be more resistant to the
environmental heating that's affecting the metal fuel line, allowing
it to absorb the heat from the metal line that it's in contact with.
Or something like that. At any rate, it has to be *somehow*
related to heat transfer, if it really works (no firsthand experience),
because otherwise we're talking about alchemy or mysticism or
something.

Jim Pointer

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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:33:51 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 62 F100, Elec. Problems

> Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 21:10:09 -0700
> From: mitzm

earthlink.net
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 62 F100, Elec. Problems

> I've got a 62 F100 stepside that is a total stripper, six, 3 on the
> tree etc. The problem is that the turn signal wiring is all screwed
> up. A shop did some dickin around with it years ago and I've messed
> it up further trying to get it straightened out.

The old method before someone figured out how to make the cable go on
the outside of the column was to mark the wires or write down the
colors and positions in the plug and take a thin, small screwdriver
to release the pins in the plug and pull the wires through.

Then you install the new switch, run the wires down and and re-insert
the pins in the plug. If this is what's messed up you can do a
search and destroy by trial and error with a helper to watch which
lights come on when and figure the wires out. There are two power
wires (usually blue), one for brakes and hazzards and one for signals
which is only on when the key is either in acc or run position so
find those first and use them to test the other circuits.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 09:28:16 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Gauge Help

Tony Marino cried out:
> All of the guages in my '70 F-100 don't work, and I've tried two other
> dashes without luck. I would like to test the sending units to find
> out
> wether the problem is in the wiring, or in the actual sensors
> themselves,

To which Deacon replied:

} I can't give you any tech stuff but I do think your looking in the
} wrong places. It would be unlikely that all the sending units have
gone
} bad.

I agree. OK, a quick test - pull the wire off your temp sender. Attach
it to a nice, solid ground. Turn the key on, the temp gauge should peg
on the high side. If it does, replace the sender, if not look elsewhere.

} Each gauge will more than likely have one wire that is common to
} all three gauges and that would be the wire that is giving you the
} problem. The common wire would probably supply power and the other
} supply a ground by connecting to the sending unit.

Listen to our Deacon! He can Help! Trust the Deacon :-). Fuel, Oil,
and Temp gauges are powered by an 'Instrument Regulator' The regulator
takes battery voltage in (10 to 15 volts) and regulates down to a lower,
constant voltage. That way as the battery / charging system voltage
changes, the gauges won't move around.

} To test this you could check the common wire for current. If there
} is no current trace the wire back to where it originates. You may be
} able to fix it by running a wire from where it originates or has power
} to where it connects to the instrument panel.

Now, in the vintage of trucks close to our hearts, this regulator
is a 'chopper'.If you look at the regulator's output (voltmeter or
testlight), you'll see it jump from zero to about 12 volts, switching
at about (guess here, haven't looked for a long time) a once per
second. Your gauges see the time average of this voltage. As the
battery voltage goes up, the chopper will slow down, ensuring that
the time-average voltage to the gauges remains constant.

} The continuity of a sending unit varies which enables it to move the
} indicator. So it wouldn't be possible to give you a unit of measure
} for testing.

Yup. The resistance varies with (temp/pressure/level), which varies
the current through the gauge, swinging the needle.

Ammeter? Well, that's different. Steve D. did a real nice job on this
last fall, somewhere in the archives. He even taught Deacon about Ohm's
law :-) Anybody save it for reference?

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, CaliforniaStill Rainin'

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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:38:59 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Cold miss

> From: "Bear"
> Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Cold miss
> Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 08:08:03 -0500

> but some things are just easier to pay to have done. Where do I get
> a Helms service manual set and how much do they cost?

You can get them directly from Helms Publications, automotive dept.
and the price veries from $50 up to more than $100 if they are still
in print. I had to go to Faxon to get mine and it was a used set
which they reprint portions of etc. for $120 (for a 78 truck set).

There are a bunch of book sellers who carry the used ones and can get
them for you but I lost the list I had so Faxon is the only one I
know of off hand.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:45:14 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - manifold vs. ported, was FE timing question

> Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 11:23:33 -0500
> From: John Strauss
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - manifold vs. ported, was FE timing question

> >> Usually You don't want vacuum at idle.
> >> Port on the left....
> >
> >Can someone splain this to me??
> >
> would prevent this from working out would be if you cannot then
> lower your idle speed enough to keep the engine from running-on
> after the key is turned off

Then you get an electrical or vacuum dashpot to hold the idle speed
which collapses when the engine stops or the key is shut off, closing
the throttle plate completely which prevents the run on problem AFAIK
:-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:54:00 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake light update

> Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 08:30:48 -0700
> From: Pat Brown
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Brake light update

> Gary replied that a few quick jabs to the pedal will recenter the
> piston, most people will automatically try that (Stupid Truck!! Take
> that! and That! :-) when the light comes on after a brake job. If

And just how do you think I learned that little trick, Hmmmmmm?
You're right though it doesn't always work so my next step is usually
to remove it altogether and hard line the dang thing........:-)
Every time I tried to move that little pin it didn't seem to do
anything but usually they just fix themselvs after a while so I never
worried about it much as long as it would stop when I pressed the
pedal :-) Always figured that light was for sissys anyway :-) (real
men could tell when they needed some work)

Only time I needed to worry about it was waaaaaay back when we had
inspections by the state police and they had this really bad attitude
about that stinking light........:-( (so I usually disconnected it
:-))

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:55:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Clothespins on fuel lines-was Vapor Lock Definit

> From: Jim Pointer
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Clothespins on fuel lines-was Vapor Lock Definition
> Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 11:22:18 -0500

> Which way should the clothespin be pointed?

I always pointed mine north but that was kind of inconvenient when
you turned a corner, you had to get out and
change..................:-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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sonic.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sonoma county gas

>Pat Brown
>Sebastopol, California Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain, RAIN SUCKS!

Yes, the rain thoroughly sucks. My cherrie trees were just starting
to ripen and now they've all split open from too much rain. Lost the
fruit on both trees. )-: It's freakin' pouring outside right now...

Say, someone either on this list or maybe fordnatics said that there
was a gas station in sonoma county that sold gas without MTBE in it.
Was that You Pat? If so, where is it?
I'd like to try some non-MTBE gas in the truck for a while to see what
it does for my gas mileage.

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

Opportunity may knock only once, but temptation
leans on the doorbell.

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sonic.net
> Coolant temp sender... uh, can't think of any others, must be
more...(-:

How could I have forgotten that one. When we were ready to remove
the heater tube from the lower manifold (the part that the coolant temp
plugs in) we couldn't find how it's removed in his shop manual or the
conversion instructions. We looked at the GT-40 manifold and there was a
fitting screwed in the port and on the inside there was a couple
channels. We concluded it was a pressure type fitting and the tube must
somehow pop off. With no room to turn the tube or get our hands in to
pull it up we took out the pry bar. Being within a breath of a very bad
day it came to me that the fitting is unscrewed from the manifold and
the tube was made to allow the fitting to rotate. The junkyard he got
the lower manifold (point of interest, it came off an Explorer. They
have GT-40 lowers and the uppers are the same as the Cobra just without
the Cobra. They are about half the price) from must have pried it's tube
off.

> A rolling block gathers no moss.

You funny Guy! :) His '94 has the stock roller cam and the cam gear is
different on the distributor. I guess I was asking if only the '94
Mustang 5.0 has a roller cam. Earlier 5.0 EFIs have fittings in
different places that would need to be drilled and taped in my manifold.
If other '94 5.0s (non-Mustang) don't have roller cams and have the same
lower manifold The parts would be a lot cheaper and wouldn't need
converting.

> I think EFI has a lot of good things going for it. I've been toying
> with the idea of grabbing all the EFI stuff off of a late 460 truck
and
> adapting it to my FE390... Mostly cuz it would really freak people
out
> when the hoods open, but also because I'd like to have more "hands-on"
> experiance with EFI. A little better mileage would be cool to...

This would be cool! Helping to do this really opened my eyes that it's
not the monster I had imagined. We also installed roller rockers so we
took a lot of things off. :) Considering we installed a completely
different intake, once we finished installing everything and went
through the ritual to reset the computer, there were no adjustments.
Just drive away. It may have been easier than doing the same with a
carb.

> If all them wires don't scare You too much, I'd say go for it.
> You can get *tons* of info about EFI on the "DIY-EFI" list if You
> can wade thru all the serious techno-geek stuff about writing
> software and stuff. There's some serious good EFI info on that list.
> And lots of the Fordnatics will have answers to Your EFI questions
also.
> I think You should gather parts and put it on.

Thanks Steve. I think it would be worth doing as long as no snags come
up. Wiring harnesses don't bother me. Nor would some minor lengthening.
Mounting the modules and running the harnesses is simple enough. I would
go to Speedway Muffler to have the O2 bosses welded in the exhaust. So
for now it looks good. I'll call around and see what junkyards have in
the way of parts I need and what they will charge for them. If things
look good after that I'll post some questions on fordnatics. They can
get a little odd you know! :) Just kidding. Right now I'm not sure if I
can afforded it. My bud posted the question on the 5.0natics list and a
person replied he got all the parts from the junkyard for $150. I find
that hard to believe. That's a lot of parts! If it's true, I'll be
starting soon as I find the parts.
Later!.

Deacon
deconblu

gte.net
=============================
Nuke GM and the unborn baby whales.
=============================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/

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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 10:46:39 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Clarification

From: Ken Payne
>Keep having fun, I hope everyone understood the tone of my post.
>Its impossible to stay on topic 100% of the time, heck, sometimes
>the diversions on Fordnatics are enjoyable. The point of my
>post is that if we can't keep ourselves from going hog wild,
>like sharks on a surfer, I'll see out a warning.

I didn't say I was going to lose my sense of humor. You didn't sound
like you were becoming "Lord of the List" and nothing non-Ford truck
related was going to be allowed. You offered to give us three chances so
it wasn't like you were becoming a tyrant. :)

Deacon
deconblu

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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:17:07 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - SunPro tach question

Yo Gang:

Anyone know about the Sunpro Mini tachometer (little one w/ the 2" face)?
I have one mounted in the middle hole in the instrument cluster where the
factory tach goes in a 1980 F250.

Last night, when I started to drive home and turned on the lights, the
tach's internal light didn't come on. When I turned on the dome light, I
saw that the needle was on 0. This morning, I discovered that the tach
works when the lights are not on, but when I turn on the lights, the tach
goes dead (needle drops to 0).

There are four wires for this device: 12v power input, light power input,
ground, and tach signal.

Main power wire is tapped into the fuse block w/ an inline fuse between the
power tap and the tach. I would guess that if this line was bad, the tach
wouldn't work at all.

Power wire for the tach's internal light is spliced into the wiring harness
for instrument/dash lights, so it can be dimmed w/ other lights.

Ground wire is connected to a dedicated grounding lug under the dash.
(Other things grounded there still work, so that's not a likely suspect.)

Signal wire is spliced into negative side of the coil primary circuit
between DuraSpark box and coil.

The tach has been installed and working properly for about 4 years. So, my
first WAG is that this is how it tells me that the internal light bulb is
burned out. Any thoughts?

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 14:35:20 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - SunPro tach question

> From: "Dave Resch"
> Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 12:17:07 -0600
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - SunPro tach question

> The tach has been installed and working properly for about 4 years.
> So, my first WAG is that this is how it tells me that the internal
> light bulb is burned out. Any thoughts?

Might be telling you your ground isn't big enough to handle a full
12v short so the signal is getting messed up or the 12v is shorting
to the signal and doing the same thing due to shorted filiment.....or
the flux capacitor is.......:-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 11:41:37 PDT
From: "Kevin Leone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear spline questions?(1962)

I am going to pick up a 1962 9" rear axle for my 63, that currently has
a dana 44. I want to switch to a set of 3.25 gears. I still want the
option of playing though, so I want to switch gears without having to
mess with set up every time. The rear end I'm getting is a 62 9", what #
of splines do I need to look for when looking for a pumpkin with the
highway ratio? Please help!!
Kevin Leone
1963 F-100

______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 14:47:03 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear spline questions?(1962)

At 11:41 AM 5/29/98 PDT, you wrote:
>I am going to pick up a 1962 9" rear axle for my 63, that currently has
>a dana 44. I want to switch to a set of 3.25 gears. I still want the
>option of playing though, so I want to switch gears without having to
>mess with set up every time. The rear end I'm getting is a 62 9", what #
>of splines do I need to look for when looking for a pumpkin with the
>highway ratio? Please help!!
> Kevin Leone
> 1963 F-100
>
>

It should be a 28 spline pumpkin.

Ken Payne

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chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - EFI

Steve D. writes: >> I think EFI has a lot of good things going for it.
I've been toying with the idea of grabbing all the EFI stuff off of a late
460 truck and adapting it to my FE390... Mostly cuz it would really freak
people out when the hoods open, but also because I'd like to have more
"hands-on" experiance with EFI. A little better mileage would be cool
to...

I like the way EFI starts and idles when its cool/cold, and have been
thinking of making the conversion on one of my old 460's to late model EFI
(sometime in the future - not now). I'd like to know when the 1st year the
460 was offered with individual port fuel injection (not TBI)??? Anyone
know?? I might also want to get the auto tranny from the same donor for
installiation in my future motor home!!! The EFI and automatic would suit
SHMBO just fine I think.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

Azie

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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 16:05:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear spline questions?(1962)

> From: "Kevin Leone"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 9" rear spline questions?(1962)
> Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 11:41:37 PDT

> I am going to pick up a 1962 9" rear axle for my 63, that currently
> has a dana 44. I want to switch to a set of 3.25 gears. I still want
> the option of playing though, so I want to switch gears without
> having to mess with set up every time. The rear end I'm getting is a
> 62 9", what # of splines do I need to look for when looking for a
> pumpkin with the highway ratio? Please help!!

When did the front loader 9" come out?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 13:14:33 PDT
From: "Jay Branscome"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel

I read an article in either Custom Classic Trucks or Classic trucks
about a year ago that covered it. I will look it up and send you the
info from the article.

>From: "Hogan, Tom"
>To: "'61-79-list

ford-trucks.com'"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel
>Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 16:39:33 -0700
>Reply-To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
>
>I'm thinking about refurbing the steering wheel on my 76. It has a
>leather/vinyl texture band that circles the horn button. This texture
is
>cast into the plastic/resin of the steering wheel and if I fill the
cracks
>would like to reproduce the texture in those areas. Does anyone have
any
>good ideas how to do it? I have considered sanding down the textured
area
>to simply remove it from the wheel and make the repair simpler, but I
don't
>think I would like the results. I guess I could try it on another
wheel and
>see if I like it. I would really rather figure out how to reproduce
this
>texture.
>
>TIA
>
>Tom H.
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>

______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 13:20:10 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - EFI

I believe it was 88 or 89.

SHMBO...She Hoo Must Be Obeyed...?

- ----------
> From: am14

chrysler.com
> To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - EFI
> Date: Friday, May 29, 1998 1:02 PM
>
> Steve D. writes: >> I think EFI has a lot of good things going for it.
> I've been toying with the idea of grabbing all the EFI stuff off of a
late
> 460 truck and adapting it to my FE390... Mostly cuz it would really
freak
> people out when the hoods open, but also because I'd like to have more
> "hands-on" experiance with EFI. A little better mileage would be cool
> to...
>
> I like the way EFI starts and idles when its cool/cold, and have been
> thinking of making the conversion on one of my old 460's to late model
EFI
> (sometime in the future - not now). I'd like to know when the 1st year
the
> 460 was offered with individual port fuel injection (not TBI)??? Anyone
> know?? I might also want to get the auto tranny from the same donor for
> installiation in my future motor home!!! The EFI and automatic would
suit
> SHMBO just fine I think.
>

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aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 460 in 4x4

The 460 was NOT available in a 4x4 until the early 1980's (maybe 1983??) It
was available in 2wd however. The conversion kits (like L&L, Hooker, etc)
have just made it easier to do the swap...Thats all. Call and ask L&L...they
will tell you the same. Ask a FORD dealership for engine mounts for a factory
460 4x4 in 1979.....they will say "Never made them!!!!". Hope I don't make
anybody made....but the truth is the truth!!! Wayne Grabley
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=======================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 16:40:54 -0400
From: Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 68 Truck rim size????

Anybody know what the biggest tire you can put on a 68 stock rim???
Would a 31/10.5/15 fit??????Thanks
- --
Joe
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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 16:57:13 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - SunPro tach question

It is the ground. I had the same problem with a small tach. It is
grounding through the dash lights normally, and when you turn on the lights,
the ground goes away, and the thing stops working. Use a tester, and make
sure you have ground all the way into the tach, the ground wire may have
broken or come loose inside the tach, or somewhere in the loop.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Resch
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, May 29, 1998 2:19 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - SunPro tach question

>Yo Gang:
>
>Anyone know about the Sunpro Mini tachometer (little one w/ the 2" face)?
>I have one mounted in the middle hole in the instrument cluster where the
>factory tach goes in a 1980 F250.
>
>Last night, when I started to drive home and turned on the lights, the
>tach's internal light didn't come on. When I turned on the dome light, I
>saw that the needle was on 0. This morning, I discovered that the tach
>works when the lights are not on, but when I turn on the lights, the tach
>goes dead (needle drops to 0).
>
>There are four wires for this device: 12v power input, light power input,
>ground, and tach signal.
>
>Main power wire is tapped into the fuse block w/ an inline fuse between the
>power tap and the tach. I would guess that if this line was bad, the tach
>wouldn't work at all.
>
>Power wire for the tach's internal light is spliced into the wiring harness
>for instrument/dash lights, so it can be dimmed w/ other lights.
>
>Ground wire is connected to a dedicated grounding lug under the dash.....

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