61-79-list-digest Tuesday, September 22 1998 Volume 02 : Number 458



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - big mama clutch spring, etc.
FTE 61-79 - rebuild opinions
FTE 61-79 - Cylinder #'s
Re: FTE 61-79 - fixing interior carpet
FTE 61-79 - plastigage
Re: FTE 61-79 - rod bearings
Re: FTE 61-79 - Torque converters
FTE 61-79 - Reseating worn rings
FTE 61-79 - absent
FTE 61-79 - Torque converter
FTE 61-79 - rebuild dry
Re: FTE 61-79 - absent
FTE 61-79 - 67-72 trim
Re: FTE 61-79 - rebuild dry
FTE 61-79 - 67-72 trim
FTE 61-79 - Ouch
FTE 61-79 - spark plug removal and chrome rings
FTE 61-79 - Ring groves
FTE 61-79 - piston removal
FTE 61-79 - Tranny fluids
Re: FTE 61-79 - fixing interior carpet
FTE 61-79 - Carpert
FTE 61-79 - TRIM OPTIONS
Re: FTE 61-79 - Reseating worn rings
FTE 61-79 - Re: Truck Trim
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ouch
FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-72 - TRIM OPTIONS
FTE 61-79 - je me parle bon ami
FTE 61-79 - Re: Questions for 67-72 owners
FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 interior carpet repair
FTE 61-79 - Ring Lands
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ring Lands
Re: FTE 61-79 - Joke/Relax

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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 11:46:05 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - big mama clutch spring, etc.

>From: luxjo thecore.com
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - big mama clutch spring under dash (78 bronco)
>
>It seems this monster spring (under dash) holds
>the clutch pedal up until it's about 1/4 way through
>it's travel, then it "flops over" and slams pedal
>straight to the floor. I yanked that puppy and the
>extra monster spring underneath. The clutch has
>never been so smooth and comes right back up
>with no problems. I was curious why that spring is
>there. Was it an assist spring to help "clutch pusher
>challenged" people with clutch effort?? :-)

Yo Ox:

The factory refers to that part as "clutch pedal assist spring." I would
continue to use the original factory spring to maintain correct
pedal/linkage operation, but ditch the extra spring. Ford supplied
different clutch assist springs for different applications, and I think
these springs are still available from the dealer. If you are unsure of
the quality or correctness of your spring, you can get a new one.

Aside from assisting those w/ weaker left leg muscles, the clutch assist
spring also maintains the correct tension and pressures on the clutch
linkage and its associated brackets.

In my truck, when the clutch diaphragm wore out and increased the pedal
effort (gradually, but ultimately dramatically), it eventually lead to a
broken pedal mounting bracket under the dash (where the clutch and brake
pedals hang), a broken mount (for the equalizer bar) on the bell housing,
and it essentially trashed all the clutch linkage components. I finally
wound up replacing and rebuilding the entire linkage, from the pedal to the
diaphragm. The only component I didn't replace was the throw-out lever
itself (because it was $65 at the dealer and I couldn't find a decent one
in the junkyard and I had already exceeded my $150 budget for clutch
linkage parts!).

BTW: How's the M-block engine coming along? Got that new cam in yet?

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 15:47:27 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rebuild opinions

There is some discussion on rebuilds going on at this time, so I want to
jump in and spend dome of my opinion, since I seem to have too much of it
today.

I oil every moving part.
I use chrome molly rings.
I use clevite bearings.
I usually (but not always) remove the ring grove prior to removing pistons.
I want to elaborate here. FOMOCO blocks are extremely hard - not at all
like GM. The ring grove in a Ford will always be slight, unless some very
abrasive carbon steel rings have been used. They will eat your block up,
and I do not use them. (read here ONCE was enough)

If an engine has as much as 80,000 miles on it when I tear it down I always
install new cam gear(steel) and chain and crank gear. If it has less miles
on it (and that is seldom, cause Fords don't need tearing down prior to
80,000 miles) I use common sense and check it very closely for looseness.
If it is more than slightly loose, I change it.
I clean everything to perfection on the inside.
I most of the time install a new oil pump(standard FOMOCO pump)
I stagger the ring gaps on each piston so they aren't likely to be in
alignment.
I place one compression ring in ea cylinder prior to assembly to make sure
the ring is correct(use the piston(top) to push it down in the cylinder
about an inch.) This way the ring is straight with the bore. Check end gap
here.
Check (mike) crank for roundness and wear and have any necessary work done
to restore it.
Check cam/lifters. Only replace if necessary and here again Ford uses very
hard surfaces, so replacement is not like GM which almost always need
replacing after 50,000 miles

I'm sure I left out something, but these are the basics I do.

Everyone has an opinion and a way THEY do things. I have just expressed
mine.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 15:19:06 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cylinder #'s

Someone wrote: >>On the 351M/400 #4 is passenger side rear. #5 is drivers
side front

This is true of all FOMOCO V8 engines that I am aware of - from the
flathead to the most recent introduction of the Modular Triton.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 13:07:19 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - fixing interior carpet

>You should also prepare the floor with a good coat of paint and let it cure
>well before laying the mat because rubber mats don't breath and will rust
out
>your floor otherwise. I think I will be trying the Rhino lining
eventually in my
>bronco and eliminate all carpet completely for that "rinse out" effect :-)

Doh! I forgot that part, a very good recommendation. Mine had just had new
floor boards put in, so they painted them for me.
Just my 2cents

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 15:55:57 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - plastigage

David R (M block devotee) writes: >>I hate to disagree w/ Azie on
anything, especially FE related, but I
personally would use plastigage on all crank bearings, both rods and mains.
Once when rebuilding an M-block, I got a set of bearings that were all
marked as the correct size (under/over), but one of the main sets did not
produce the correct clearance. Every engine rebuilding book I've read
recommends checking clearances w/ plastigage for this very reason.

Feel free to disagree.. Thats what its all about. I only said it for
engines I would be familiar with, and that would be just daily drivers. I
used plastigage religously on my racing engines, but it must be kept dry -
you can't rotate the crank even a fraction - its just a pain. It is good
"stuff" - very reliable measurements, but not worth it to me on every day
routine repairs.

JMHO. (would be difficult to express anyone elses opion, now wouldn;t it.)

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 14:23:14 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - rod bearings

>A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
>Dad keeps the best part :-)

Ok Gary, I GOTTA ASK! I KNOW IT's off topic- but what do you mean?
Did I miss an e-mail explaining this?

Now, for Ford truck Content:

1970 F-100 4x4 Shortbed, Stepside CUSTOM TRIM

White- vinyl everything, cardboard headliner, full guage cluster with ford
script on panel, am radio, rubber floor, 4.09 trac-loc rear, 3.54 front
(YES, this is factory! (factory screw up- vin number matches them!))

Tony



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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 15:03:14 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Torque converters

Date sent: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 10:47:11 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Torque converters

> Anyway I was wondering if you were all running stock converters, or higher
> stall speeds or what, I've seen a lot and read a lot, but still not sure
> what's best.

For use as a truck doiing normal truck duties and with economy in mind a
stock or lower than stock converter is what you need. Couple that with the
wide ratio C-6 option and you have a winner off the line and with good
economy. One member of the perf list used a better than stock converter on
his truck and really liked the performance but you have to have an engine
which will pull at low rpms for this application which most truck engines do
well.

Unnecessarily forcing the engine to spin faster wastes gas but lugging it will
cause back fires and sluggish performance etc. so you have to balance the
converter, engine and gearing for the best results.

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 15:22:18 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Reseating worn rings

Pat Brown writes: >>Old trick to re-seat worn-out rings (as told to me by
my boss, in a garage, ~25 years ago): Remove air cleaner, start engine,
pour Bon-Ami (scouring cleanser) in the carb, while keeping engine running.
Abrasive in cleanser will allow rings to re-seat. Supposedly. I've never
tried it, probably never will :-)

Don't know if it always works or not, but it worked once on an A model I
bought out of a junkyard in 1951. Only time I ever tried it.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 16:08:16 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - absent

Hey gang!!

I'll be out of the office for a few days. Might be back Friday, but may be
Monday, so don't expect Azie's comments for a few days. Having some minor
(?) surgery in B'ham tomorrow.

See Ya.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 15:00:50 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Torque converter

Bill Hart writes: >>Anyway I was wondering if you were all running stock
converters, or higher stall speeds or what, I've seen a lot and read a lot,
but still not sure what's best.

For mostly stock usage a hi-stall converter is worthless. They are for the
Drag racer and maybe the rock crawlers. The stock converter is sufficient
for normal heavy duty useage.

JMHO.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 15:11:54 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rebuild dry

Bill Beyer writes: >>Just thought I'd throw my $.02 in and confuse the
issue more. I too was taught to always install pistons with a little 30W or
something but I recently talked to a neighbor of mine who makes a living
working on gas & diesel motors and he swears by dry installing the pistons.
He also builds sprint car motors on the side and says that he's never had a
problem with engines not breaking in since he started using this method 20
years ago.

I don't make my living rebuilding engines, but I have built a few (even a
few diesels now and then) and I never put one together "dry". I always use
plenty of heavy (30W or better and sometimes STP) oil. I completely
submerge the piston (with rings on) just prior to the ring squeezers.
Messy as heck, but I get oil on all the moving parts. I also dip the rod
ends after the bearings are inserted, and main caps also. I OIL EVERYTHING
THAT EVEN LOOKS LIKE IT MIGHT MOVE SOMEDAY. It can not possibly hurt
anything, and just might help here and there.

To each his own!!!

Azie

Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 13:27:50 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - absent

At 04:08 PM 9/22/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey gang!!
>
>I'll be out of the office for a few days. Might be back Friday, but may be
>Monday, so don't expect Azie's comments for a few days. Having some minor
>(?) surgery in B'ham tomorrow.
>
>See Ya.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.

I hope all goes well with your surgery! Good Luck!

Later

Keith Srb herbie ford-trucks.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 13:24:43 PDT
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 67-72 trim

My 70 f-250 4x4 has custom badges on the box (the box may have been
changed) It has black seat, armrests, and seatbelts AM radio and dual
horns. it had a 360, 3 speed column and t-24 but now has a 4 speed that
the original owner swapped in.
My parts truck (same year and model) has red armrests, seat and
seatbelts 360, new process 4 speed/ t-24. the radio and horn is gone.

My truck had the original sales sheet that slips over the visor still on
it.

It reads like this:

*Check these better idea benefits...*

Styling...
Modern masculine huskiness chrome grille and front bumper standard.
Choice of 18 colours.

Cab Comfort...
Man sized-maximum visibility. Choice of 7 colour-keyed trims.

Smooth ride..
Exclusive Twin-I-Beam (two front axles cushioned by coil springs) Rolls
over bumps independently. Provides outstanding stability on any road.

Double-wall all steel construction. One hand tailgate holds a ton.
Really rugged-works like a truck ...rides like a car. (haahaa)

Performance...
Powerful 150 h.p. six std. Optional 165 h.p.big six plus three v-8's.



______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 13:35:24 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - rebuild dry

Well the bearings better NOT move inside the rods or caps, but as far as
"dry installation" goes I was strictly referring to the rings & cylinder
walls. Conventional wisdom does say that too much lube in the cylinders can
prolong the time it takes the rings to seat and sometimes prevent it
completely necessitating another teardown.

- ----------
> From: am14 chrysler.com
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - rebuild dry
> Date: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 12:11 PM
>
> I OIL EVERYTHING
> THAT EVEN LOOKS LIKE IT MIGHT MOVE SOMEDAY. It can not possibly
> hurt anything, and just might help here and there.
>
> To each his own!!!

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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 13:37:13 PDT
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 67-72 trim

My 70 f-250 4x4 has custom badges on the box (the box may have been
changed) It has black seat, armrests, and seatbelts AM radio and dual
horns. it had a 360, 3 speed column and t-24 but now has a 4 speed that
the original owner swapped in.
My parts truck (same year and model) has red armrests, seat and
seatbelts 360, new process 4 speed/ t-24. the radio and horn is gone.

My truck had the original sales sheet that slips over the visor still on
it.

It reads like this:

*Check these better idea benefits...*

Styling...
Modern masculine huskiness chrome grille and front bumper standard.
Choice of 18 colours.

Cab Comfort...
Man sized-maximum visibility. Choice of 7 colour-keyed trims.

Smooth ride..
Exclusive Twin-I-Beam (two front axles cushioned by coil springs) Rolls
over bumps independently. Provides outstanding stability on any road.

Double-wall all steel construction. One hand tailgate holds a ton.
Really rugged-works like a truck ...rides like a car. (haahaa)

Performance...
Powerful 150 h.p. six std. Optional 165 h.p.big six plus three v-8's.

Handling ease...
Flex-O-matic rear suspension standard in F250's (optional in F100's).
Automatically adjusts to varying load and road conditions.

Sorry if i sent this twice.

Don Jones, NOrthern Ont. CAnada

'70 F250 4x4~~ Fordzilla~...the kids named it, not me :-)
'85 F150 supercab~~ FOR SALE~~




______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 13:53:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ouch

Well, my truck joined Ken's, John's, and a few others as I recall.
While my son was driving to school this morning, a classmate decided
to occupy the same lane. Fortunately, no injuries. But, I now have
another insurance co battle to fight. The crew cab suffered a torn
off passenger side mirror, a bruised (front) door and fender, and
a badly mangled bumper :-(. The offending honda had same pieces
mangled on drivers side, but far more severely. I still can't figure
how that little honda folded my bumper forward a foot - she must have
been cookin'.

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 16:13:53 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - spark plug removal and chrome rings

The best asset for that back plug on the passenger side bank is a swivel
headed ratchet and a socket that is exactly the right length. The next
ingredient is a lot of patience and blood that clots like it should.
Install platinum plugs and they should be in there for a while. I never
have pulled a head on that side, but the valve cover is a #$ %%%
(substitute your favorite expletive here).

Note to Bob: what did I tell you?

Chrome rings are harder to seat than any other kind. I haven't bought rings
in awhile, but I always called them porous chrome. Chrome rings also last
longer. Never install them in a block with aluminum bores. In a freshly
rebuilt, rebored, done right engine, they should seat within the first 20
miles or sooner. I have seen them take as long as 500 miles to seat.
Properly seated they will never leak until they wear out. Actually the
cylinder will become out of round and you will almost assuredly have to
bore out next time.

I believe the ring lands are in the area where the rings ride in the
piston. Lands would be the raised part, grooves would be the recessed part.
That's what lands and grooves are in a rifle barrel, although I've never
heard of this refernce on a piston before.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, only one dent left from the crash
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 14:51:19 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ring groves

John LaGrone writes: >>Theere is also a tool for cleaning ring groves in
the piston.

Many so called mechanics forget this. It is very important to remove all
carbon from the ring groves before installing new rings. This is one
reason many people break rings.

Azie
Ardmore, Al


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 14:56:20 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - piston removal

Some one wrote about pulling the piston out the bottom of the holes:>>

BEWARE - Not all pistons will clear to come out the bottom. Less than half
will slide out the bottom of an FE. Can't say about the rest, but of the
FE I'm positive not all will drop out the bottom, and I think less than
half is accurate.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 14:46:29 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tranny fluids

Dennis Pearson writes: >>One quart of Mobil 1motor oil...Interesting.
What are the benefits? I might try this in my C-4 .

This is an assumption on my part as the directions that comes with the
shift kits do not go into detail.

Superior lubrication for some very heavily loaded thrust type torrington
bearings, and maybe some of the other bearings as well.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 15:15:03 -0700
From: "Robert Houlne"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - fixing interior carpet

Auto Custom Carpets http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.accmats.com offers rubber floor mats that are
very high quality, check them out!

Adam
- -----Original Message-----
From: William S Hart
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 6:51 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - fixing interior carpet


>At 11:08 PM 9/21/98 -0400, you wrote:
>>speaking of carpet, i'm in the same situation, but i want to put a plain
>>rubber mat in mine( i use my truck and the mat is easier to wash out) can
>>anyone recommend a place to buy the molded to fit mat, besides ford, i
>>understand they are expensive.
>
>
>I got a rubber floormat from JCW and was very pleased with it. It came
>with some underlayment too, so that helps deaden the sound quite a bit.
>The hardest part is locating the holes for the shift boot when you get it
>all done.
>
>A helpful hint when installing the mat, be sure it is warm, makes it much
>more pliable, I was trying to do mine in February here in Iowa, I ended up
>starting the truck and running the heater, I was sweating but the mat laid
>in a lot better.
>
>
>Just my 2cents
>
>Bill
>
>Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
>'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
>'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Cars/mustang.html
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>



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Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 19:07:48 -0500
From: Cannandale
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Carpert

>>You should also prepare the floor with a good coat of paint and let it
cure
>>well before laying the mat because rubber mats don't breath and will
rust out
>>your floor otherwise. I think I will be trying the Rhino lining
eventually in my
>>bronco and eliminate all carpet completely for that "rinse out" effect
:-)

>Doh! I forgot that part, a very good recommendation. Mine had just had
new
>floor boards put in, so they painted them for me.
>Just my 2cents

Thats all fine and dandy, but im restoring the truck, and trying to make
it orginal as possible, I have a rubber mat that fits, but I dont want
to use it because of that. I replaces the floorboard about a year ago
with galvanized steel (the ENTIRE floorboard), shaped just like orginal,
then I got that spay on undercoating stuff, and covered it pretty thick,
so im not worried about it rusting out...

cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460





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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 19:46:47 EDT
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - TRIM OPTIONS

My 1972 F-250 4x4 says Custom on the side. It has no amenities what so ever.
Rubber floor mat, metal door panels, vinyl seat, the dash is padded must not
have been optional, and no side trim or fancy tail gate.
Burt Hill 72 F-250 4x4 Kennewick, Wa
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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 20:32:07 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Reseating worn rings

In a message dated 9/22/98 3:18:01 PM EST, am14 chrysler.com writes:


my boss, in a garage, ~25 years ago): Remove air cleaner, start engine,
pour Bon-Ami (scouring cleanser) in the carb, while keeping engine running.
Abrasive in cleanser will allow rings to re-seat. Supposedly. I've never
tried it, probably never will :-) >>


That is an exact quote from Ch*vy to all dealers in a letter sent out during
the intro of the small block, seems thy didn't seal without th extra help.


Darrell Duggan aka JUMPINFORD AOL.com
74 F-350 RangerXLT Super Camper Special
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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 20:46:29 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Truck Trim

At 09:52 AM 9/21/98 -0700, you wrote:
>On Sun, 20 Sep 1998, Ken Payne wrote:
>
>> The Ranger was introduced in 1967. In Ford's own words: "In 1967, Ford
>> introduces the ultimate in a high-style light truck. The Ranger package,
>> identified by a Ranger script emblem on the cargo box...."
>
>Are you quite sure about that? I knew a guy who had a Ranger emblem on
>a '66 F-100. The other one said something else, but it was definitely a
>'66 style fender emblem...they changed those completely in '67, didn't
>they? You know, the one that says "Twin I Beam" or "Ford 100" and is
>sort of oval shaped...
>
>Birken

It comes straight from Ford's own "1967 Illustrated Facts and
Features" manual. This is the literature that Ford supplied
to the dealers.

Ken



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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 20:47:31 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ouch

At 01:53 PM 9/22/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Well, my truck joined Ken's, John's, and a few others as I recall.
>While my son was driving to school this morning, a classmate decided
>to occupy the same lane. Fortunately, no injuries. But, I now have
>another insurance co battle to fight. The crew cab suffered a torn
>off passenger side mirror, a bruised (front) door and fender, and
>a badly mangled bumper :-(. The offending honda had same pieces
>mangled on drivers side, but far more severely. I still can't figure
>how that little honda folded my bumper forward a foot - she must have
>been cookin'.
>
>Pat Brown
>Sebastopol, California
>

My front bumper was bent badly from my encounter with the BMW.
I think its because it has two very solid mounting points (frame)
with no give so the bumper bends alot.

Ken



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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 21:10:25 -0400
From: "Paul Rider"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 61-72 - TRIM OPTIONS

Sounds like a familiar tune with we who have trucks with the 240.

My '67 F100 Styleside short bed came with 240; three speed standard tranny,
3.70 axle, no PS, vinyl seat & floor, no radio, single small rear view
mirror on driver's side, and strange to say it has side moulding all around!

Paul in Huber Heights, Ohio
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~afchap



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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 19:40:56 -0600
From: Drew Beatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - je me parle bon ami

Pardon my French :-). You guys understand that I had to say this, right?

Actually, I flunked French in Junior High. Since it was French maybe I
"flunqued."

Anyway Gary, I can't believe I'm not the only one to have heard of this. I
actually saw some guys do this to cars. Why you ask? Because they were
selling used cars and ripping people off, that's why. They would buy a
smoker at auction and give it the Bon Ami treatment to get it to quit
smoking long enough to get some poor sucker to drive it off the lot. I
guess it scratches the cylinder walls enough to get the rings to seal
better temporarily.

I know you didn't recommend this, but just in case somebody read it wrong,
this is NOT the way to go.

Drew Beatty
dcbeatty rmi.net

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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 19:42:49 -0600
From: Drew Beatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Questions for 67-72 owners

Mine's a '67 F-100 Ranger. I'm probably about the 4th owner.

It apparently was a special order truck. It came with a 352 2bbl "low
compression" motor (long since gone), beige bucket seats (long since gone),
Dana 3.54 limited slip diff, fresh air heater, radio (long since gone),
gauge package instead of dummy lights, power steering (the integral Bendix
unit, which I recently changed out), Tinted glass, wheel covers (long since
gone), chrome mirrors (I would assume the western style, but they're gone
too), front and rear shocks (no kidding, it actually says this), rear
chrome bumper (still there!!), and no paint code, as the vehicle was
ordered as a "fleet" vehicle.

Mine also has the chrome around the wheelwells, the trim piece down the
side (one inch with black stripes), the rocker trim, and trim around the
tailgate.


Hope this helps,

Drew Beatty
dcbeatty rmi.net


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 21:51:59 EDT
From: RodCarlton aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 interior carpet repair

Hey FTE 61-79 interior carpet repair try MACS they only advertise to 72 on
trucks but maybe they can help MAILMACS aol.com or 800-777-0948.
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Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 20:57:58 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ring Lands

The ring lands are the top and bottom of the groove that the rings ride
in. When the piston is on it's way up(and during combustion), the ring
is pushed down against the bottom of the groove. On the way down, it's
going to break loose and smack against the top.

Unless those surfaces are perfect, the ring seal will leak some(or a lot
of) mixture by. Alot of cases of blow-by are due to excessive wear and
or carbon buildup(the stuff diamonds are made of) on these surfaces. On
an engine that is being rebuilt it is important to assess the condition
of these surfaces to determine the degree of wear, distortion, or
scoring done by the movement of the rings and the abrasion of the hard
carbon. Add to this, that after you hone, the piston clearance will
widen. The piston now has more of a rocking motion (skirt-slap) that
accelerates the wear on both the lands and the rings. This causes the
rings to flutter around in the lands, resulting in blow-by. That starts
the carbon growth again. This will result in a loss of ring seal and
premature failure of your engine.

My verdict, new pistons on anything that falls outside of the standard
bore taper measurement, has a noticeable ridge in the bore, or any
damage or wear to the ring lands. This will include about anything over
80,000 miles. Especially look at the piston in the weak cylinder, it
failed because of something, you need to find out why. Use a ring
groove cleaner and solvent(it will look alot like a big square guitar
string with handles, don't use a scraper type) and gently clean it up.
Then inspect them. The top ring groove will show the worst heat or ring
flutter wear, the second will show carbon.

It's up to you, but if I were going to this much trouble, I'd bore it.
I've seen few pistons worthy to refit (for a premium, hard working, long....


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