61-79-list-digest Monday, September 21 1998 Volume 02 : Number 455



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Door Seals, Bushings and other stuff like this for 1979 Ford Bronco.
FTE 61-79 - Explorer Trim
FTE 61-79 - Looooooong week, but fun :-)
FTE 61-79 - RE: Hot running 460....more hot air
FTE 61-79 - V8 Rings and gaskets and BEARings - oh my!
FTE 61-79 - Custom
Re: FTE 61-79 - Henry Ford Joke / Not funny
FTE 61-79 - 1977 F100 stepside
Re: FTE 61-79 - 69 Armrests
FTE 61-79 - 460
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Trim
Re: FTE 61-79 - 69 Armrests
Re: FTE 61-79 - V8 Rings and gaskets and BEARings - oh my!
FTE 61-79 - Rear main
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: FTE 61-79- 360
FTE 61-79 - rear main
FTE 61-79 - big mama clutch spring under dash (78 bronco)
FTE 61-79 - Tools
Re: FTE 61-79 - V8 Rings and gaskets and BEARings - oh my!
FTE 61-79 - Rear main
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tools
FTE 61-79 - Re: Truck Trim
Re: FTE 61-79 - cams
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460
FTE 61-79 - Sport Steering Wheel
FTE 61-79 - In the Market
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460
Re: FTE 61-79 - cams
FTE 61-79 - Upholsery Dye \Thanks
FTE 61-79 - 351W QUESTIONS
FTE 61-79 - RE: Questions for 67'-72' owners!!

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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 08:01:39 -0400
From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Door Seals, Bushings and other stuff like this for 1979 Ford Bronco.

Hi guys!

I am trying to restore my 79 Bronco to the best condition that it can be and
I noticed several glaring problems with worn out items.

If anyone can help me locate some of them, (I prefer OEM or new aftermarket
generally as a rule). Here goes the list.

1.) My door seals are in pretty rough shape and I would prefer not to have
to reuse them if I do not have to. The local dealers generally do not have
many items available these days.
2.) Light lenses all of them. Mine are chipped and have a lot of over-spray
from a previous owner.
3.) The Bushing and body mounts on this vehicle are pretty rough, cracked
and worn out. Do you recommend an after market polyurethane bushings and
from who? (Also what is with the 2-degree, 4-degree, 7-degree "C" bushings?
I take it that these are for different lift heights. Mine is stock height
right now but I am thinking about a 2-3 inch lift.)
4.) Should I be looking at a suspension lift or body lift?
5.) My Bronco has only the standard single shocks in the front end. Is
there any great advantage switching to the dual shocks on each side. (My
previous 79 hard the factory "Quad shocks" front. This is no longer
available from Ford. I do believe that someone makes a kit which uses the
stock mounting locations, (Ranchero?).
6.) I am also looking for good "Bumpers". In the past I have seen several
available as a step type bumpers which have storage compartments (both front
and rear), and in the case of the front bumper internal space for mounting a
winch.
7.) Does anyone have any input about spray-in or self applied bed liner(s).
I am thinking about applying it myself to save a few bucks. How does the
finish compare? Does it hold up as well?
8.) I have the factory 4-speed transmission which needs a new clutch
(again). I do not abuse the clutch but I have had the frost plugs blow out
(in the summer) and destroy the clutch and starter by saturating them with
coolant. Has this happened to others? (Running 351M really heavy-duty
parts custom rebuilt, "Balanced and Blueprinted".)
9.) The shroud on my radiator is broken, (beyond repair.) :>( I need a
replacement. Anyone know where I can get one? The local junkyards around
here are picked clean. Should I consider replacing the fan altogether with
an electric one? I have measured my radiator any it seems that any electric
fan would not cover all of the surface area of it. Is this essential? (I
tend towards this not being a good thing.)
10.) A few years ago I was reading a copy of Peterson's 4-wheeling mag and
saw a 78 or 79 Ford Bronco at a Los Vegas show that had a flip up fiberglass
front end. It looked pretty sharp. (Had a 460 in though, (more power,
grunt, grunt)!) Anyone know if this might be available from a supplier?
Alternatively, other Fiberglass body panels? (I am tired of rust! I live in
the great white north, Canada Eh!)
My vehicle is not in to bad a shape mechanically, but I have to do something
now or it is going to be a lot harder to fix later.

Thanks in advance for any help

Mr. Paul R. Boudreault
pboudreault sympatico.ca
79 Bronco, 351M, 4 barrel, 4-speed manual, being restored.


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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 07:26:13 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Explorer Trim

>>>Robert; What year(s)?
>>
>>well I don't know the exact years they used these options but I know that
>>Explorer started in 72' and Ranger in 70' or so so from 70' to 77'.
>>
>>Thanks.
>>
>The Ranger was introduced in 1967. In Ford's own words: "In 1967, Ford
>introduces the ultimate in a high-style light truck. The Ranger package,
>identified by a Ranger script emblem on the cargo box...."

au contraire on the Explorer. from '69 facts on the 67-72 homepage, at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman/ ,

"Another New Package for 69 was the"Explorer" package available on the F-100
and F-250 stylesides, it consisted of bodyside mouldings, interior
treatments, Explorer badge on glove box, and thunderbird type wheel covers
on the F-100 the F-250 Had their own Chrome style hubcaps."

As evidenced by my '69 Explorer. However, I have never determined what the
extent of 'interior treatments' was, as mine was redone by a previous owner
(to be done again).



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Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 08:39:10 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Looooooong week, but fun :-)

Well, as my new signature shows I now have 7 kids, the last one coming into
the fanily fully grown but I still have a daughter and she's still Daddy's little
girl, at least to me :-) The wedding went off very well once the kids located
the marriage license. They will remember that for years to come, held up the
cerimony for about an hour while two brothers made separtate trips back to
hte house to locate it while all the guests stood in the sun waiting. It was
outside in a city park set up for such things and done by the Mayor and a
family friend who shared the responsibilities, simple but nice.

I spent the whole week preparing the barn for the reception and stacking my
equipment out of sight etc. and got several rave revues on my handywork
which I will post some day to my bronco site. It turned out as well as I
could have hoped and everyone had fun.

The DJ has a 49 ford pickup he doesn't want and after hearing about my
retirement plans he suggested I might be just the guy to provide a good home
for it, flat head 6, 3 speed on the floor but rusty. Anyone know if you can
still get sheet metal for a 49 ford? This is one project SWMBO will actually
aprove of since she drools over all the old trucks she sees.

I'll be trying out my tranny jack adapter on the engine hoist soon since the
throwout bearing is really getting noisy on the bronco (there...covered both
lists now, happy?)


A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 07:04:37 -0600
From: Mike Orendorf
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Hot running 460....more hot air


even
said whether he was or wasn't running a thermostat?>>

I am the original poster, and it does have a thermostat, 160Degrees.
This winter I intend to put in a 195 (for more heat and less wide
tempature swings)
And I also intend to drop in lower gears (2.7 or so).

Also, since my last post I have cut out some sheetmetal that was
covering up the radiatior.
The truck original came with a 240, and the opening for the radiator was
smaller than openings for bigger engines. It was about 5 inches of
covering on the radiator (out of 30 inches) And I dont know why I never
dealt with this before. Uncovering up 20% of the radiator might help a
little, dont ya think?

Between that and the gears, I am sure it will be fine.

Thanks for everyones input and advice on this issue.

- - Mike, AKA Supermagot

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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 08:26:22 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - V8 Rings and gaskets and BEARings - oh my!

For those of you patiently providing advice on curing the blow by in my 66, 352...

Got the engine into tiny pieces this weekend. Started about 8:30 Friday night and finished the vavle shaft,
intake manifold, and exhause manifold/cylinder head on passenger side around 12:30. It actually went
easier than I thought. I tried to label everything and put all the little bolts in zip lock bags so I think I may
actually get things back together :-)... In fact, it went so well that I am going to follow the list advice and go
ahead and replace all the cylinders.

I examined the bad cylinder and the wall looks like its in good shape. Pistons are 040's, which matches the
caliper reading on the diameter 4.035 really well. I don't see any gouges, scratches, or metal embedded in
the wall, so...

First Question, I am ok not having anything rebored, right?

Second Question, the gentleman at the parts store said I should replace the rod bearing. Hmmmm, I never
thought about that. I looked it over and it looks ok to me. No visible damage. Whats the list
recommendation here. Do these need to be replaced? My uncle, who sold me the truck, says the engine
was rebuilt with pretty high dollar bearings in 94, so they ought to last a while, right? Perhaps I should
replace them anyway since the thing is apart? The bearing insert has 020 stamped underneath it. I
assume this means something has been bored .020" over? I was looking in my trusty shop manual about
replacing these bearings. It talks about "selective fit" and some bearings being .002" over size and some
being .002" over size. It also mentions using a **plastigauge** to check the tolerence. I am getting lost
here and am thinking it would be nice not to have to mess with this and spoil the party. Pulling the pan off
isn't too bad, no intake manifold to break my back trying so If I need to do them in 3 years or so, no big
deal?

Third and last question. Guy at the parts counter asks if I want the "premium or economy" rings. What's the
difference? According to the paperwork, when the engine was rebuilt, they used moly rings. Should I stay
with those? Apparently one of them wasn't too good. Unless my proble is valves and I am wasting my
money on rings!

Thanks again to everyone helping out. I'm gonna weigh some of this stuff, who has the site listing part
weights? I am also gonna take some pics here, maybe a little video. I may even do a "beginners guide to
a ring job"... tech article.


Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:37:15 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Custom

Robert Houlne writes: >>First by 76' does Custom mean cheap or upgraded?
I know like in 65' Custom
Cab was a luxury thing, is it still in 76'?

Ranger or Ranger XLT were the top of the line.



>>Second, on the three speed is it on the ground by 76' or is it still
3-on-the-tree?

Factory was, "on the tree".


Azie
Ardmore, Al.



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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 06:42:35 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Henry Ford Joke / Not funny

I was going to ignore the whole thing, but I can't help voting--with Deacon.
Back to FTE content!

Thanks for your message at 04:10 PM 9/18/98 -0700, Deacon. Your message was:
>>ok lets have a vote,who liked the joke?
>>i did
>
> I don't care who liked the joke, it's offensive and inappropriate.
>Discussing it, I also find offensive and inappropriate. We have rated
>our list as safe for children so the subject saying "Not for children"
>alone makes it inappropriate for our list. Lets just drop it before
>tempers flair and this get out of hand.
>
>Deacon
>deconblu gte.net http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
>==============================================
>Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm
>==============================================
>
>
>
>
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>
>
1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1970 Marquis 429
1973 Mustang 302 (tired)
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
!962 Unibody short box (shell)traded to Levi--
It's gonna be a convertible!
1990 Aerostar
1981 Rabbit Convertible (How did that get in here?)
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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:41:23 -0400
From: "douglas Rogers"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1977 F100 stepside

Where can I find original specs and some fotos of the 1977 F100 stepside? I
want to find out how many were made and get information on rebuilding mine.
I just rebuilt the engine and tranny and now want to work on the body.....

Any help at all would be appreciated. I see all kinds of straight bed 77s
but very few step sides (at least in this part of the world)

Doug Rogers

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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 08:44:44 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 69 Armrests

Jeff

I restored a 68 Mustang a few years back. Order door panels and arm rest along

2 can of spray paint they made using the color needed. Worked great.




At 09:00 AM 9/20/98 EDT, you wrote:
>Who knows where to get some armrests (red) for a 69? Seems I've only seen
them
>in black from some of the aftermarket guys.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Colorado Jeff
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>

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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:50:50 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460

Tony Marino writes: >>Quick question for you guys- I noticed most of you
saying that if I want to put a 460 in a 78 truck that use to have a 351m in
it, I needed special motor mounts from L&L for about a hundred bucks- Are
the stancions different on this truck you are talking about (the '74CS) or
could I just go to the local autoparts and ask for the
mounts from a '74 460 and drop them in my '78 to save a couple bucks?

The 460 was 1st offered in either '77 or '78 and then only in 2X4. The 4X4
with 460 was 1st offered in the '80's. The 4X4's and 2X4's mountings are
completely different. If you have a 2X4, then I would think you could
purchase the "Stanchions" for the 460 in '78/'79 and put in the earlier
versions and it will bolt in. However those "stanchions" will not bolt in
the 4X4's. You must distinguish between the 4X4 and 2X4 when talking
engine swaps, because the similarities are few.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 06:54:53 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck Trim

Thanks for your message at 01:48 PM 9/20/98 -0400, Ken Payne. Your message
was:
>At 08:21 PM 9/19/98 -0700, you wrote:
>>>Robert; What year(s)?
>
>The Ranger was introduced in 1967. In Ford's own words: "In 1967, Ford
>introduces the ultimate in a high-style light truck. The Ranger package,
>identified by a Ranger script emblem on the cargo box...."

I remember reading that there were some Rangers in 1966 with bucket seats,
etc...I've been looking for one ever since (well, not actually looking,
just keeping my eyes open). Has anyone actually seen one, or (better) does
anyone out there have one?

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1970 Marquis 429
1973 Mustang 302 (tired)
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
!962 Unibody short box (shell)traded to Levi--
It's gonna be a convertible!
1990 Aerostar
1981 Rabbit Convertible (How did that get in here?)
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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 07:01:59 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 69 Armrests

Thanks for your message at 08:44 AM 9/21/98 -0500, Larry Schmiedekamp. Your
message was:
>
>Jeff
>
>I restored a 68 Mustang a few years back. Order door panels and arm rest
along
>
>2 can of spray paint they made using the color needed. Worked great.
>

Who are "they"?
1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1970 Marquis 429
1973 Mustang 302 (tired)
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
!962 Unibody short box (shell)traded to Levi--
It's gonna be a convertible!
1990 Aerostar
1981 Rabbit Convertible (How did that get in here?)
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Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 10:27:41 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - V8 Rings and gaskets and BEARings - oh my!

From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Date sent: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 08:26:22 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - V8 Rings and gaskets and BEARings - oh my!

> First Question, I am ok not having anything rebored, right?

Never put new rings on an old cylinder wall, always hone new lines into the
wall to help the rings to seat. This doesn't require the removal of much metal
so the size doesn't change significantly if you are carefull and only re-surface
the texture of the walls. Moly rings require a 35 degree cross hatch and 600
or finer grit for best seating. I personally wouldn't use anything else.

> Second Question, the gentleman at the parts store said I should replace
> the rod bearing. Hmmmm, I never thought about that.

Rod bearings are relatively cheap so are good insurance but make sure you
get the right "Undersize" not over size. The crank has been ground 0.020"
under so the ID of the installed bearing should also be 0.020" under size to
match. Pro's don't use plastigauge, they use inside mike's to measure the
installed bearing with the crank out of the way but most of us don't have
inside mikes so plastigauge will suffice. Make sure all parts are completely
free of oil when you do the mock up and check clearances or you will not
get good info and the oil melts the plastigauge (more like wax) to further
mess up the results. Be very carefull of the crank surfaces when installing it
with rod bolts sticking out in the way. A rod bolt will scratch a crank
sufficiently to destroy the bearings is short order so put thin, rubber vac line
of the right ID on the rod studs to protect the crank when removing or
installing it. Be very carefull of the bearing surfaces too that you don't embed
any dibris in them or nick them and install them completely dry in dry bores.
When you install the crank, put a good coating of oil on the crank but don't
put any oil on the bearings.


A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 10:28:14 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear main

Rob Patelke writes: >>Azie,
Can I replace an existing rope seal with a neoprene seal?=20
Are the slots the same?

Yes. The groves are the same.




Do you check all the mains if the rear one looks ok?

#4 on an FE is usually the 1st to show signs of wear. Check it, and if no
copper is showing through, then I would "button her back up" and let it
go. (You are aware that the crankshaft bearing surfaces have a
mirrow(flawless) finish. If you have any scoring/scratches/nicks then
there may be need for further repairs.) A good test other than merely
looking is to drag the fingernail around and across the journal and "feel"
roughness. If you can't "feel" it, it is probably OK to use.

>>I've never done either of these things; oil, spark plug, and u-joint
changes have pretty much been the most complicated projects so far. How
do you check the bearing fit, or do you just wing it and pray? I can't
imagine plastigage would work properly with the weight of the crank bearing
down on it.

The backs of all bearings I've ever seen have the "oversized" markings on
them if they are not standard( ie .020 after the end of the FOMOCO P/N
would indicate a twenty thousandths undersized crankshaft at that location
- - on aftermarket bearings it would simply have .020 stamped on the back,
usually just above the mfg's P/N.) I would not try to use plastigage in a
vehicle I was going to use every day. Now one that is going to be
mistreated/raced/abused is another story.


Hope this helps.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 10:36:08 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460

From: am14 chrysler.com
Date sent: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:50:50 -0400
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460

> are completely different. If you have a 2X4, then I would think you could
> purchase the "Stanchions" for the 460 in '78/'79 and put in the earlier
> versions and it will bolt in.

Stanchion........$86/pc
Doughnut.........$90/set
Engine bracket $58/pc

Values aren't exact but representative of cost involved for new OEM parts.
The 460 had a heavy duty mount in the trucks and was a 3 part deal, very
expensive. Get the L&L mounts and bolt the dang thing in, trust me, doing it
any other way is a real pain or very expensive :-(

How do I know this...........I bought the doughnuts thinking I was getting the
engine bracket AND rubber part in one unit and it was special order so I still
have them in my garage, useless to me at this point.......GRRRRRRR!


A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 07:39:09 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: FTE 61-79- 360

>I have a 67 F100 with a 240 bored out and I get around 27 mpg. That is =
>with an Autolite carburetor though. Plus I am 17, so the gas mileage =
>can probably be better.
>
27 mpg as in miles per gallon?
27?
Can be better?
I don't think so!


1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1970 Marquis 429
1973 Mustang 302 (tired)
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
!962 Unibody short box (shell)traded to Levi--
It's gonna be a convertible!
1996 Windstar
1981 Rabbit Convertible (How did that get in here?)
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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 10:39:53 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rear main

Bill Templeton writes: >>why the blocks, can't I just loosen the motor
mounts to relieve the pressure?

The pan will not clear the crossmember in most cases unless the engine is
raised somewhat from its "normal" posture. It must remain a couple of
inches or so above that. You could use an engine hoist and just leave it
connected while doing the repair, but most folks don't have engine hoist,
and I would want a safety factor between those mounts
and the engine anyway.


>>Also, what are the chances of having a molded seal rather that a rope
seal? Also, if it has a rope seal can it it be replaced with a molded?

Not good - I've never seen a neoprene seal in an FE from the factory.
Aftermarket uses them quite a bit in overhaul kits, but the factory never
did that I am aware of.

The rope seal can be replaced with a neoprene seal.

Good luck.

Azie
Ardmorem, Al.


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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 10:42:28 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - big mama clutch spring under dash (78 bronco)

Hey all

Just got done messing around with my clutch adjustment the other day.
Many years ago, my clutch pedal was gettting stuck half way up. I
installed a monster spring, in addition to the stock spring to pull the
clutch fork back. The extra force took it's toll and the linkages egged
out. I removed the linkages and played with the clutch pedal. It seems
this monster spring (under dash) holds the clutch pedal up until it's
about 1/4 way through it's travel, then it "flops over" and slams pedal
straight to the floor. I yanked that puppy and the extra monster spring
underneath. The clutch has never been so smooth and comes right back up
with no problems. I was curious why that spring is there. Was it an
assist spring to help "clutch pusher challenged" people with clutch
effort?? :-)

OX
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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 10:47:57 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tools

Dr Storer writes: >>while perusing the tool isle at the parts store, i saw
a rear seal tool consisting of a long thin metal rod with a wood scerw
thread on the end (to grab or push the seal out with) and some sort of
clasping cable thing to pull the new one aound with.

any one ever used on of these?

Never seen one. What brand parts store were you perusing ?? Was it a
chain or just a local??

I'd like to take a look at this tool. (by the way - perusing - is a new
word for my 61 year old vocabulary -- I had to look it up)

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:55:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - V8 Rings and gaskets and BEARings - oh my!

Welcome back Gary, and congratualtions on the big event. I personally think simplier is better when it
comes to weddings. My wife wanted all this frilly, expensive "northeast" style wedding social / event. I'll
take a good ol southern wedding with lots of good food, drink, and the more people the better. Now on to
FoMoCo content:

> Gary wrote:
Never put new rings on an old cylinder wall, always hone new lines into the
wall to help the rings to seat. This doesn't require the removal of much metal
so the size doesn't change significantly if you are carefull and only re-surface
the texture of the walls. Moly rings require a 35 degree cross hatch and 600
or finer grit for best seating. I personally wouldn't use anything else.

Ok, the guy at the store said I needed a honing attachment that fits on my drill. Simple enough, I guess. I
have no clue whatsoever about how measure 35 degree cross hatch, but I can make sure I have 600 or
finer grit on the honing stones.

> Gary wrote:
Rod bearings are relatively cheap so are good insurance but make sure you
get the right "Undersize" not over size. The crank has been ground 0.020"
under so the ID of the installed bearing should also be 0.020" under size to
match. Pro's don't use plastigauge, they use inside mike's to measure the
installed bearing with the crank out of the way but most of us don't have
inside mikes so plastigauge will suffice

Now this is what I don't understand. The bearings are .020" (undersize). What is there to measure? The
distance between the concave face of the bearing surface to the underside of the crank? So lets say I
install new bearings and they are incorrect. What then? Is there an adjustment? I think I am missing a big
piece of the puzzle here.

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:59:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear main

Azie,
I am taking what I can from this thread to help with my rod bearings, but I am unsure if you are saying you
would not bother checking bearing tolerance with plastigage on a daily driver, or you would use a different
method?

>Azie wrote:
I would not try to use plastigage in a
vehicle I was going to use every day. Now one that is going to be
mistreated/raced/abused is another story.
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 11:05:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: CLARE WATERMAN
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tools

On Mon, 21 Sep 1998 am14 chrysler.com wrote:

> Dr Storer writes: >>while perusing the tool isle at the parts store, i saw
> a rear seal tool consisting of a long thin metal rod with a wood scerw
> thread on the end (to grab or push the seal out with) and some sort of
> clasping cable thing to pull the new one aound with.
>
> any one ever used on of these?
>
> Never seen one. What brand parts store were you perusing ?? Was it a
> chain or just a local??

i was at an Advance and the tool was not made by the typical Lisle; i
dont remember who made it other than it had yellow and black backing paper
on the bubble wrap packege. cost less than ten bucks.

>
> I'd like to take a look at this tool. (by the way - perusing - is a new
> word for my 61 year old vocabulary -- I had to look it up)
>
> Azie
> Ardmore, Al.
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>



Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
Department of Biology
University of North Carolina
Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280

T: (919)-962-2354
F: (919)-962-1625


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:52:01 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Truck Trim

On Sun, 20 Sep 1998, Ken Payne wrote:

> The Ranger was introduced in 1967. In Ford's own words: "In 1967, Ford
> introduces the ultimate in a high-style light truck. The Ranger package,
> identified by a Ranger script emblem on the cargo box...."

Are you quite sure about that? I knew a guy who had a Ranger emblem on
a '66 F-100. The other one said something else, but it was definitely a
'66 style fender emblem...they changed those completely in '67, didn't
they? You know, the one that says "Twin I Beam" or "Ford 100" and is
sort of oval shaped...

Birken
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:24:36 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cams

Well, it seems that we've gotten on a line about how much is actually
needed to fix blowby on a cylinder. Along similar lines (doing it as
cheaply as possible mostly), a friend of mine has a 360 in a Jeep, he had
one in it that his dad blew up the day before he was supposed to get it,
now they put in a used one, but its got a sticky lifter in it. I told him
to take it back and have them fix it, but they won't. Dan is a little
tough on his vehicles, liking to tailgate a lot and accelerate as fast as
possible from stopsigns.

He wants some more power and I suggested headers, intake, and if the lifter
doesn't stop, a full rebuild with a cam and everything. He got to
wondering then if we could do the cam without a rebuild, and how hard it
would be to do in the car, since neither of us has an engine hoist ?
Can anyone recommend a good cam ? I'm looking at doing something similar
to my Ford 360 (Ford content) in the future, so what would you recommend ?

The worst work we do to the vehicles is to push through snow in the winter,
which can be hard when you get a nice 13" of wet snow, but neither of us
has a snow plow, or does any regular towing. Anyway if I didn't give
enough info let me know.

Oh yeah, mechanical experience, I've done a bit of it, helped with changing
engines once, but that was a complete change, didn't have to disassemble.
I've also done head gaskets on 3 cars (twice on the FE I have, once on a
F.I. 302).

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Bill

Auto Links http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
'73 1/2 ton 4x4 Ford http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Trucks/truck.html
'96 Mustang GT http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Cars/mustang.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:41:19 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460

In a message dated 9/21/98 6:57:31 AM Pacific Daylight Time, am14 chrysler.com
writes:

>

Actually, my recently acquired 74 F-350 CS has a 460 in it. I didn't believe
it was stock either, but I did a VIN check and it confirms the stock 460.

Darrell Duggan aka JUMPINFORD AOL.com
74 F-350 RangerXLT Super Camper Special
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:01:52 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460

Hmm Interesting!

The truck I was going to put mine in is a 4x4, sorry for leaving that out
guys- (I tend to think every truck is 4 wheel drive now!) But as Gary gave
me prices (thanks) I tend to think just buying the motor mounts *would* be
best.. Thanks.

>>
>
>Actually, my recently acquired 74 F-350 CS has a 460 in it. I didn't believe
>it was stock either, but I did a VIN check and it confirms the stock 460.
>
>Darrell Duggan aka JUMPINFORD AOL.com
>74 F-350 RangerXLT Super Camper Special
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:28:06 -0500
From: Mike Masse
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sport Steering Wheel

Does anyone have a "Sport Steering Wheel" that was available in the free
wheeling package on the 78/79 4x4's that they might want to sell?? It
basicly looks like a Grant steering wheel, but this one has the ford
logo on it. Anyone know where I might find one?

-Mike
'78 Bronco Custom
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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:21:11 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - In the Market

OK fellow FTE faithful.

SHMBO has shown an interest in a truck. Not just any truck but a Stepside
SWB. I took her down to look at the one for sale that I posted last week
and she really liked it, but she did not like the color at all nor the
price. I would like to find her one. Must be fair sheetmetal. Drive line
is unimportant as I can probably come up with most of it in my shop. We
would prefer Red - White - Blue, but might look at other colors. Would
also prefer not to have to drive over 300 miles to look/purchase, and of
course a Southern truck would not be as suspect to hidden rust as a
Northern truck. A Desert truck would be nice, but the distance might be a
problem.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

Anyone knowing of one that fits this picture, let me know.


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 16:24:54 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460

Date sent: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:01:52 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460

> The truck I was going to put mine in is a 4x4, sorry for leaving that out
> guys- (I tend to think every truck is 4 wheel drive now!) But as Gary
> gave me prices (thanks) I tend to think just buying the motor mounts
> *would* be best.. Thanks.

Keep in mind that the L&L mounts are one size fits all so on some trucks the
cross member needs to be moved or the frame brackets need to be modified
slighly to make the engine fall into the original position but this is still much
easier than trying to make new mounts out of old ones or buying the OEM
stuff. Just be prepared to make a few adjustments to get everything to line
up.

A son-in-law only takes part of a daughter away,
Dad keeps the best part :-)

- -- Gary --


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:37:53 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cams

William S Hart [wish iastate.edu] wrote:
a friend of mine has a 360 in a Jeep, he had
one in it that his dad blew up the day before he was supposed to get it,
now they put in a used one, but its got a sticky lifter in it. I told him
to take it back and have them fix it, but they won't.

Sounds a little scary to me to actually try it, but I read in my home auto repair manual, that one way to try and
fix a sticky lifter is to drain the oil, fill the engine with kerosene + 1 qt oil. Run for 20 minutes. Drain, and
refill with new oil and new filter. Kinda similar to the recent thread about putting a little ATF in the
crankcase, but seems much more extreme to me. If you want the details, let me know and I'll scan them in
and send them to you.



Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:34:58 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Upholsery Dye \Thanks

I dyed my black door panels, green dash pad and brown headliner light
tan.
I used MarHyde Vinyl Spray. I did them about 4yrs. ago and they all
still
look great.I picked it up at a auto paint supply store .
Also thanks to Ross H. for the F250 steering info.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:13:50 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351W QUESTIONS

Gentlemen:
While trying to decide whether to take advantage of a
late model reman long block at a great deal, or rebuild my present 77, a
question has come up.
I was told the 77-78 block is the same. A 79-82 block is different in that
it has somewhat different ??? front cover guide pins? ?
An 83-84 are similar but have an updated rear seal (non-rope). An 85-89
are similar and add ?? ? ? 89-96 adds
who knows what else ? ? ? I need to use some parts from my 77.
Question is.........can I take advantage of a newer design long
block or do I have to stay with 77 only? ? ?
Any and all advise & opinions would be welcome.

Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
1970 F100 (ret)

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:10:00 EDT
From: CATLN7....

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