61-79-list-digest Monday, September 14 1998 Volume 02 : Number 447



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - What is a Camper Special?
FTE 61-79 - Re: 352to410
Re: FTE 61-79 - What is a Camper Special?
FTE 61-79 - Camper Special Options
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Web updates and archives
FTE 61-79 - Re: Horn button hopelessness
FTE 61-79 - Your advice
FTE 61-79 - Blow-by reduced by applying duct tape and "squishing" (?)

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Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 07:07:58 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - What is a Camper Special?

Michael Linnane wrote:
>
> I just bought a 1967 F-250 Camper Special. What it the difference between
> a Camper Special F-250 and a regular F-250?
>
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Mike,
in 67 the camper special had the following over the base model
70amp battery,oil/ammeter gauges, deluxe fresh air heater, dual horns,
6x10in western mirrors, larger radiator, camper wiring harness,relocated
tailpipe, heavy duty shocks, and camper special nameplates..
hope this Helps...
You can find out more on my website at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
this site is dedicated to the 67-72's
Joe
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Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 11:32:48 EDT
From: NUTCH11 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 352to410

eric

many people think that ford just kept boring the old 332 larger and larger
all the way up to
427 size bores . sometimes they increased the amount of metal by changing the
castings. i'm not sure if you can bore a 352 .05 over. my suggestion is to
take your block to a machine shop that has a sonic checker and find out how
much bigger you can safely make it.

by the way the exterior of a 390 block made before 1970 would look the same
as your 352. unless it had the old style motor mounts, pre 65 i think.
the only difference would be the casting numbers and date????

john
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Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 11:49:33 EDT
From: Bato125 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - What is a Camper Special?

I have a 66 250 camper special and I think the camper special is a little more
heavier duty than the regular 250.
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Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 12:32:49 -0400
From: "Michael Linnane"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Camper Special Options

>>My grandpa has A camper special 79 f-150. Does yours have all of this?

>>It was equiped with A 460
Mine has 352 (i think)
>>dual tanks
Yes
>>sliding rear window
No
>>a/c
Yes
>>special wiring harness
I dont know?
>>overload springs
I dont know?
>>and an extendable bumper(?) from the factory
Yes it looks like it.
>>as well as dual batteries
No
>>and a 140 or 160 amp alternator
No


Mine has inflatable bladders on both sides underneath the bed. It looks
like these things lift the bed up if you inflate them? They do not look like
shocks. They are rubber cylinders 4inches by 4inches with hoses running from
them to the rear wheel wells. The end of the hoses has connections to put
air in them? Is this a Camper Special option? Are the bladders for lifting
the bed?


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Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 15:06:56 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Web updates and archives

- - August list archives are now on the FTE web site
- - Over 10 new trucks added to the pictorial.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com
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Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 02:06:29 -0600
From: "Michael White"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Horn button hopelessness

>Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 09:52:20 -0700
>From: Sean Hess
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Horn button hopelessness
>
>Fellow Paleo-Fordites,
>
>When I bought my '69 F250, one of the previous owners had removed the horn
>button and horn ring. I recently picked up a replacement at my favorite
>junkyard, but I hit a snag when I went to install it. The threaded metal
>center of the steering column (apologies for poor terminology) sticks up so
far
>that the horn button assembly will not sit down into the steering wheel far
>enough to engage the three mounting slots. It's almost like the outside
>portion of the steering column has sunk down relative to the center portion
of
>the steering column, leaving the threaded thingy in the middle to stick up
too
>high.
>
>Is that possible? Has anyone else had this problem?
>
...................

Sounds like someone switched some parts around. Your best bet is to pull
a complete column assembly from a wrecking yard ($20 maybe). Be sure to get
the same type of column (auto trans or standard, power steering or manual),
as they are different. Do use a steering wheel puller if removing the
steering wheel, or damage can result. Check both bearings (upper and lower)
for damage while you are at it (especially the lower bearing housing at the
bottom of the column tube, as it can rust away). If the turn signal return
mechanism needs replaced, now would be a good time. It wouldn't hurt to
clean the contact areas for the horn (sandpaper the spring loaded buttons).
I just rebuilt a column for one of my 69's last week (appox $30), and in
my case it
took parts from 3 different trucks to get all the stuff needed to make one
good steering column (good housing, bearings, rubber coupler disc, turn
signal return, and horn)

BTW:) Thanks to the person who mentioned the fact that... In order for the
horn to work, there must be a ground strap connecting the steering gearbox
input shaft to the column shaft (where the rubber steering coupler disc is
located)

Michael

69 F250 360 auto
69 F250 390 T18 Posi





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Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 23:04:23 -0700
From: "John C. Burns"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Your advice

O.k. here's the scoop. I have a 1970 F100 that I wrecked back in
January. A tree and I tried to occupy the same space. Didn't work. I
just recently got around to tearing it apart to see what needs to be
fixed. It turns out that it is mostly sheet metal damage that can be
replaced. But the biggest problem is the cab. It is bent and buckled
just ahead and below the windshield. What is the best way to proceed
here? Can it be cut out and replaced or am I going to have to replace
the entire cab? Don't wanna go there! Am I better off just selling
someone the truck "as-is" and starting over with a non-wrecked truck? I
don't have an awful lot of body work experience. I just don't look
forward to removing everything from the old cab and then trying to get
it all back into the new one. What say you, gurus? Thanks.

Chad

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Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 12:37:00 -0700
From: "Wilson, Gregg"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Blow-by reduced by applying duct tape and "squishing" (?)

Question to mechanics: Could something as simple as an ill-fitting PCV
valve hose, e.g., i.d. too big as to not seat tightly with the valve
flange, cause severe blow-by symtoms? How 'bout a gromet with similar
problem?

As some background, my dad's '73 F250 Camper Special sat for 6.5 years
in his driveway in the rainy part of Oregon due to a broken column
shifter collar. Some ignoramus told him the *shaft* was broken, and he
decided he didn't need to drive the truck that bad. I found broken
collar ~1 minute of looking at it; felt bad for not looking at it
sooner. $12 and 2 hours later it no longer had a shifting problem.

No other historical engine problems with the truck. The truck had 114k
miles when it was parked. Heads and valves were done by the trusted
family mechanic of 45+ years at 112k as routine maitenance (not idiot
who diagnosed the shift problem). It was never started during the time
it was parked.

I aquired the truck (Dad gave it to me) and got it going again this
summer with the idea I would pull a fifth wheel travel trailer I
inherited. I have since pulled the trailer, and family ~5k miles this
summer, with the following symtom:

I was losing ~ 1qt. of oil every 300 miles while pulling my fifth wheel
with a fair amount of it ending up in the breather. There is evidence
of oil loss at the PCV gromet also. PCV valve is new.

The hose feels like it fits loosely over the valve when I insert it
"all the way on". However, if I move the end of the hose to the fattest
part of the flange, it feels tighter, i.e., like it might actually be
sealed.

This last week I wrapped a piece of duct tape tightly around the
valve/hose interface after installing the hose in the above manner. The
reason for the tape is so the hose wouldn't "fall" back to "all the way
on" (I was on the "road" at 8000 feet on Oregon's Steens Mountain when I
tried this).

Also, the gromet/valve connection felt loose/sloppy, like the valve just
"fell" into the hole. I took the gromet off the cover and sort of
squished on it a bit and re-installed it. When I re-installed the
valve, it felt much tighter, like I was actually "inserting" the valve,
versus previous condition of "letting it fall into the hole".

I subsequently travelled ~600 hard miles with some severe grades with
only a slight oil loss (from slightly above the mark full, to slightly
below the mark full).

Did I fix it, or am I deluded? Maybe the rubber hose and gromet "lost
their shape" from thermal cycling while sitting in the driveway for all
that time. Time will tell, but I'm probably done for the season pulling
the trailer. Of course, I should maybe try to get a hose and gromet
that I believe fits properly.

I am also going to try a "high miles" PCV valve, if I can find one. The
truck doesn't smoke, and as far as I can tell the compression is good on
all cylindars, but maybe from all that sitting an oil ring(s) isn't
seating as well as it should? My dad swears that prior to parking it,
the thing did not lose any appreciable amount of oil between 3k oil
changes, and certainly not oil in the breather.

P.S., truck otherwise performs as expected (beautifully) when pulling
26', 7900# GVWR fifth wheel. Trusted family front-end guy of 25+ years
bent the I-beams to correct for castor and camber, and the thing tracks
as straight as a [enthusiastic expletive deleted] arrow!

Also, I only get the digest form of the list. My only net connection at
the moment is at work :-o and we aint s'pose t' chat, so thanks in
advance for any responses.

Gregg Wilson...
'73 F250 390 Maroon/White Camper Special, 119k miles, valves and heads
done at 112k, totally stock. Should probably be painted, but it's
straight.
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