61-79-list-digest Friday, September 11 1998 Volume 02 : Number 442



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Different balancers on FE's????
FTE 61-79 - new motor up and running
FTE 61-79 - wipers
[none]
FTE 61-79 - Rear axle bouncing at 45mph
FTE 61-79 - DuraSpark Conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dura-Spark
Re: FTE 61-79 - new motor up and running
FTE 61-79 - Spray Guns
FTE 61-79 - Power brake booster + master cylinder
FTE 61-79 - Emission Controls

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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 21:02:20 -0600
From: Drew Beatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Different balancers on FE's????

I have. My truck motor that I pulled a couple months ago had the thin
damper with a two-groove pulley that came off of it. The Fairlane motor
that went in had the thick damper. They are internally balanced, and I
think you can get away with using either one because they are just
vibration damper.

I trust I will be corrected if I'm wrong.


Drew Beatty
dcbeatty rmi.net


>Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 19:16:37 -0400
>From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Different balancers on FE's????

>Anybody ever see different harmonic balancers on Fe's????

>I have a 67 Auto 390 that has a light weight balancer that also
>has a 3 groove pulley that slides over it..

>I then have a 69 390 (4spd motor) that has a solid balancer(heavy)
>and has the pulley mount to the front like a small block...

>My questions are I want to use the 67 motor( just got done freshining
>it up) but I want to mate it to my 4spd I also want to add A/C
>so I need 3 groove pulleys.. Can i get away with using the
>Auto's balancer and pulley setup????

>Why 2 differnt balancers???Aren't fE's internally balanced????
Joe

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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 21:06:22 -0600
From: Drew Beatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - new motor up and running

I fired up my new 390 this weekend (actually, it's a 393 now, but who's
counting). It runs great. It also looks great, causing many ooh's and ahh's
from folks I show it to. The Edelbrock carb works great, but linkage took
some figuring out.

All in all I'm pretty ecstatic about the whole thing.


Thanks to everybody for their information and assistance in this project.

160 break-in miles and counting.

Drew Beatty
dcbeatty rmi.net

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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 21:14:36 CST
From: "Rob ."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - wipers

I have a problem with my wipers - they don`t return to the right place
when I turn them off. I have forgotten if this is the switch or the
wiper motor itself that causes this. My truck (65 F100) has the 1 speed
motor and the 2 speed switch, and I would like to change one of them so
it returns to the bottom of the window when their off. I have had this
problem for the 9 years I have owned this truck, so I think its time to
fix it.

Thanks,

Rob Trenouth

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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 20:19:53 PDT
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: [none]

>>All depends on how much you want to spend and how good of a finish
>>you want. You can spend as little as $175 for paint alone (not
>>including sandpaper and accessories, or primer, primer-surfacer, or
>>sealer) to as much as $550 and over for just paint and clear
>>(basecoat/clearcoat). From what I've learned, if you want to do it
>>right, it costs money and lots of it.

I have to disagree with you. This past weekend i finished painting
mytruck. I have done a half a dozen paint jobs over the years. The job
i did this weekend cost about $250 Canadian for materials.

If this is your first paint job then you should definatly consider
using Enamel. I used PPG Delstar Paint. Its an acrylic enamel that uses
a hardener. Its a very forgiving material to apply and it is at
least as good as a factory finish.
I painted outside and was hit by a rainstorm 10 minutes after I finished
spraying!!..all i did was wipe the finish down with a chamois after the
rain stopped and it never suffered any problems (like i said, this stuff
is very forgiving!!) I got a nice deep gloss with no orangepeel or
overspray.

I used a Craftsman conventional gun(made by devilbiss). I use a small
tip on it because i only have a 1 hp compressor. For a
beginner this may be good because a slower flow of paint makes it
easier to avoid sags and runs.

The big part of any paint job is surface preparation. Paint wont
cover ang shortcuts or mistakes here!!
Be sure to pick ask the store for product info sheets on whatver
materials you are considering. And dont even consider spraying this
stuff without the right breathing equipment!!

Here's what i spent (in 55¢ Canadian Dollars)
1 Gallon Paint, 1 gallon reducer and 1 pint hardener...$150
1 quart DP epoxy primer and hardener, and 1 qt DZ primer/surfacer .$50
1 gallon cheap lacquer thinner for cleanup... $10
1 gallon DTL16 lacquer thinner for reducing primer ...$20
sandpaper, masking tape etc.......$20


Don Jones
1970 f-250 4x4 ~fordzilla's got a new set of clothes!!~
1985 f-150 supercab ~~for sale~~

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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 23:42:36 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear axle bouncing at 45mph

Hey Gary,

Thanks for the ideas. I figured it was a long shot that the drums could be
causing this. I know the shocks are OK since they (and the axle shafts) are
new, and the length was selected after I put the springs in. The bouncing
seems like its related to the tire rotations, so an out of round tire could be
it, but wouldn't this just get worse as you go faster? This bounce seems to
appear (not every time) at just a little over 45mph. It often starts when I
just let off the gas (I have a manual transmission, just in case you were
wondering). The other thing that seems to start it sometimes is just a
slightly rough road.

Its like the resonant frequency of vibration of the rear axle assembly gets
"excited" from time to time, although it doesn't keep growing and get too out
of hand...

First, maybe I'll get that spring looked at since I'm going to do this anyway,
then swap wheel around and see if anything changes....

Any other ideas?????

Thanks again!

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 05:50:01 -0400
From: pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - DuraSpark Conversion

This thread about FEs and DuraSpark ignition has come up several times. I
have a magazine that I bought off the newsstand back in 1986 that
addresses this very question. It's called Ford High Performance and was
published for Ford SVO by Peterson Publishing. The mag has a good series
of photos and info about converting point distributors to DuraSpark. I
would like to make this available for you guys to see from my web site.
My question is would doing so violate copyright laws?

Jon E. Purut
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/Chelley (my wife got this space)


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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 01:32:47 -0400
From: Rick and Deborah Kelso
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dura-Spark

If you need a schematic to convert from points to a dura-spark let me know. I know of
a SIMPLE way to wire for dura-spark. I can be reached by e-mail at rkelso usit.net. I'm
going out of town for the weekend, so it will be the first of the week before I can
send it.


>I'm considering changing to a Dura-Spark when I pull my heads soon. I
>don't know diddly about them, what do I need for the conversion and what
>application should I get it from for an FE?

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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 01:45:40 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - new motor up and running

In a message dated 9/10/98 8:53:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time, dcbeatty rmi.net
writes:

>

I don't know what kind of response this is gonna bring but here goes:

My dad has been building engines for several years. HE has never gone easy on
the to break them in. As soon as it fires (after being primed of course) he
drives em like they had already proven themselves. And believe it or not, he
has yet to prematurely loose an engine. All have lasted well into the 175,000
to 200,000 mile range. I hope this sparks some interesting comments.

Darrell Duggan aka JUMPINFORD AOL.com
73 F-250 RangerXLT Camper Special
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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 00:12:05 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Spray Guns

I don't think you need a $400 spray gun to paint one truck.100 trucks,
maybe.
I painted mine with a Harbor Frieght $29.99 chinese Binks clone and had
no
problems at all with the gun.

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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 01:08:44 -0600
From: "Michael White"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power brake booster + master cylinder

I replaced the booster and master cylinder (with remanufactured
parts) on my 69 F250 with front disc brakes, because the old booster was
leaking brake fluid (and brake pedal felt hard). After installing the new
parts onto the truck, I then attached 2 short pieces of brake line (with
fittings) to the master cylinder, formed a loop, then placed the loose end
into the top of the revisor (I've bench bled before this way, and it worked
great). I then proceeded to bleed at each wheel (using an assistant on the
brake pedal), being sure not to allow the master cylinder to get to low
(right rear, left rear, right front, left front). Using a hand vacuum pump
with a transparent tube and canister, I was able to see the air bubbles and
the clean fluid that followed them. Unfortunately when I test drove the
truck, it didn't seem to stop as good as before I began (Although the pedal
felt much better). After going through this whole process twice with the
exact same results, I've decided that either the master cylinder or the
power booster is defective. I've ordered a new assembly (combo, not separate
items like the first purchase), and it will be here in 2 days. I can't help
but wonder, what the &%$ ! I'm going to do if the new assembly produces the
same results.

Can anyone offer suggestions?

BTW:) another reason I think one of the remanufactured parts is defective,
is because of a strange noise it's making.

BTW:) Since I've already done a drum to disc conversion on my other 69 F250
(which worked out real nice), I thought a booster/master cylinder
replacement would be rather simple. (heh.... wouldn't it be nice if every
job went well?)

Michael

69 F250 360 auto
69 F250 CS 390 T18 Posi


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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 04:02:49 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Emission Controls

> Dang! Caught me again! Both of mine have been, shall we say abused and
> "fixed" up to get by so some the the stuff is missing. Since I had seen
> this
> on some older cars I made an assumtion but EGR, PCV, hot air intake I'm
> absolutely sure of :-) I like the idea though so may add it to mine some
> day
> anyway. Both trucks stink up the garage and this system has no effect on
> performance.........amazing as that may be, the OEM's actually had a good
> idea there :-)

This is true of alot of modern properly working and maintained emission
controls. I'd gladly trade a little bit of power for a clean running
rig. Most of them are good for engine longevity too.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ....

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