FTE 61-79 - New thread: was RE MAJOR electrical problems

61-79-list-digest Tuesday, September 1 1998 Volume 02 : Number 429

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - New thread: was RE MAJOR electrical problems
FTE 61-79 - More Silly electric problems
FTE 61-79 - Rear Springs
FTE 61-79 - Engine swap
Re: FTE 61-79 - More Silly electric problems
FTE 61-79 - Diesel
FTE 61-79 - more cooling
FTE 61-79 - electrical short
FTE 61-79 - Grill guard
Re: FTE 61-79 - twin traction beam
FTE 61-79 - Christine
FTE 61-79 - Windshield removal
Re: FTE 61-79 - Problems fixed...
Re: FTE 61-79 - Problems fixed...
FTE 61-79 - bearing retaining nut
Re: FTE 61-79 - bearing retaining nut
Re: FTE 61-79 - bearing retaining nut
FTE 61-79 - TRANNY PROBLEMS
Re: FTE 61-79 - bearing retaining nut
FTE 61-79 - AC mounting bracket, thanks and so on,
FTE 61-79 - Did 67-72's 4x4's have dual tanks?
FTE 61-79 - Steering box swap
FTE 61-79 - Re: Re: Optima Batteries
FTE 61-79 - A/C Mounting Hardware
FTE 61-79 - engine problems
FTE 61-79 -

$#! Chevy

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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 07:36:38 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New thread: was RE MAJOR electrical problems

Jay wrote:

> BTW - Does anyone have an idea for another good material for making a
> starter heat sheild (I can find sheet asbestos anymore, and I'm all
> out!).

How about header wrap? If you are not familiar, it is a woven material that
looks sort of like upholstery webbing, about 1.5-inch wide. It is used to
wrap the pipes of headers to help them hold heat, and conversely not put so
much of it into the engine bay. I have used it (yes, on my dang D****ns) and
it has helped with heat in the engine bay a lot, and I recommend it for any
application. (A similar approach for headers is a header blanket. Similar
material, but basically a big wrap-around piece for the whole assembly
rather than wrapping individual pipes - harder to find - I have not tried
it, and don't care for the looks tho it is simpler than wrapping each
individual tube).
When used for headers, you simple hold one end at the starting point,
then wrap the material over itself a turn, then take off on a diagonal,
wrapping so that 3/8 to 1/2 inch overlaps the previous turn. It the end, I
suppose you could loop it back under itself and cinch it down, but I used
stainless hose clamps (large) positioning the screw under the pipe where it
would not be seen.
An additional measure is to use "Stainless Steel" paint from eastwood,
and paint the wrap after it is applied. For headers, I took mine and had
them sandblasted to remove that high-temp paint that always burns right off,
then painted them with the ss paint first. I have since seen advice to paint
the wrap itself, and it makes sense, because it would help to keep moisture
that hits them from getting into the wrap and then to the pipe. I would do
this on a starter, as it sits low and could be exposed to water on occasion.
Any high temp paint should work for this, but for real high-temp, the ss
paint is good stuff. To give you an idea, I had an 'aluminized' exhaust
system where I painted the pipes with VHT, and painted the muffler only with
the ss paint. After less than a year, the pipes were completely rusted over,
but the muffler looked just like when installed. After three years, the
muffler is beginning to show some rust spots, which probably correspond with
'thin' spots in my painting. After that, I will NEVER use VHT for what it's
name says. Maybe M(mildly) High Temperatures.
Header wrap is available from just about any local or decent-sized
mail-order performance parts dealer. I bought mine, made by Moroso from a
local dealer. I may be way off, but my memory of price is about $20/roll,
and it took me two rolls to wrap a 6-into-one header.
Hope it helps.

Jim

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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 08:42:02 -0400
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - More Silly electric problems

Group:

Got a rudamentary problem that's been bugging me. The other day, the ole
van ran the battery down while crusin', so after swapping batteries (Orig.
Everstart is 5 months old, spare DieHard is 2 years old) got it back in the
garage. Recently replaced voltage regulator, so assumed my 6 year old+
105amp ford large alternator probably quit, plus the bearing would scream
occationally, so picked up a "new" alternator and alt. to bat. cable at the
parts store and popped them in. Well, no charging, basically 12.5 volts
recorded, lights pretty dim, so picked up new voltage regulator. Swapped
it in, same thing, appears no charging. Checked for shorts, appears none
at the battery. Confirmed continuity on the two wires going from the
voltage regulator to the alternator. Can anyone tell me where the other
two wires going to the voltage regulator go? Also, can anyone offer any
other tips? I still need to confirm the parts store alt. is really putting
out anything, but other than that, am I missing something obvious?

John

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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 13:39:38 GMT
From: cdailey

hhs.state.ne.us (Chad Dailey)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear Springs

Hi all. Recently, while turning a corner, I had three of the six
leaves in my '68 F-250 part ways with the truck. It turns out they
were cracked, and looking for an excuse to leave . The other side
springs are also cracked, so they are due to go too. The local spring
shop said they'd be happy to make me new springs for $400 a side, and
I nearly choked! Does anyone know a good source for decent leaf
springs that won't leave me feeling unloved and poor?

Thanks in advance,
Chad
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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 10:23:20 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine swap

Don G writes: >>A friend of mine just picked up a 351C and wants to put it
in his 73 F-100. What 's the best way for doing this?

Engine hoist?????? Chain hoist??????

Probably the motor mounts from a '77 up 351M/400, I would think would do
the trick.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 07:48:48 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - More Silly electric problems

>at the battery. Confirmed continuity on the two wires going from the
>voltage regulator to the alternator. Can anyone tell me where the other
>two wires going to the voltage regulator go? Also, can anyone offer any
>other tips? I still need to confirm the parts store alt. is really putting
>out anything, but other than that, am I missing something obvious?

Terminal "F" goes to the field winding on the alternator
"S" to the stator winding on alt.
"A" goes to the alt output. (battery)
"I" goes to the idiot light on the dash.

One of the cute features of the Ford charging system is that it gets
current to operate the regulator thru terminal "I", the idiot light
circuit. If the idiot light bulb is burned out or missing, the
system will not charge... )-:

Don't ask how I know that, or how long it took to figure out the first
time. (or how many $$ worth of parts I replaced cuz the freakin idiot
light bulb was burned out..)

I have a schematic of the autolite charge system if You want me to
email it to You.

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

All that I needed to know in life, I learned by
killing smart people and eating their brains.

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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 10:55:50 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Diesel

Bill Templeton writes: >>Have we any experience and/or recommendations on
replacing the 352 (or other Ford engine) in a 66 F350 with a diesel? Any
recommendations on model of engine (e.g. Izuzu)? What's required to mount
bell housing, transmission, etc.?

Late '60's and very early '70 Ford built a 6000 series tractor that was
diesel and the engine was, I am told, the same as the 6 cyl truck's of the
time. I think that was the 300 six. If it in fact was the truck 6
converted to diesel, then there is no reason it won't bolt in your truck.
It might be worth checking out if you are interested in a diesel.

Azie
ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 10:04:26 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - more cooling

Brian,
Thanks for the thoughts on cooling logic. That makes sense. I believe that
my air conditioner condenser is not passing air as it should, even though I
have cleaned it, I haven't done an adequate job.

Steve,
Thanks for the tip on the flat fan blades. I would never have considered
this aspect, but it makes perfect sense.

- -John

jlagrone

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Grill guard

Norm Writes: >>Hey guys... After years of searching, I finally found an
original factory grille guard on a '66 f-100. I need to know from anyone
out there who may have one on their '65 or '66 if this guard I've found
will indeed fit a '65.

If it fits a '66, then it will fit the '65. They are the same
frame/chassis. Grill is the only difference I am aware of.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 11:53:14 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - twin traction beam

Everybody seems to be wondering why we want the TTB under the front end of an
older pickup. Well My callsign speaks for itself. I've seen how well the TTB
holds up to numerous airborne attempts. Which is what my truck club is all
about. We'd run a solid axle, but cannot afford to replace housings on a
regular basis. As for the tire wear probs, I assume you meant that it wears
the corners off the tires similar to the way the twin I-beam does. This is
not an issue for us. Don't get me wrong for true 4 wheelin, a solid axle is
the only way to go. My dad has a 75 F-250 with front and rear Dana 60's, a
merc 410, 4 speed, and all the goodies. But he don't jump it. He has to take
it extremely slow until we get to the sand, were he can show off. Where as I
can fly the same road at speeds close to 90 in my 2x. My brother wants to be
the intermediate, still go fast, but he's tired of getting stuck in the sand.
Hope ya all don't think I'm really crazy now.

JUMPINFORD

AOL.com
73 F-250 RangerXLT Camper Special
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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 10:51:13 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Christine

Garry,

I feel for you and Christine. After Henry's incident this summer, I think I
know how you feel. I am sure most of the folks on this list had the same
sinking feeling I had when they read your post. Here's wishing Christine a
speedy recovery!!!

- -John

jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left door, new left front fender
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (The software box said Windows95 or better, so I
bought a Mac.)
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!

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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 11:07:58 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Windshield removal

I have seen the posting regarding windshield installation, and am familiar
the rope trick for a gasketed windshield. I just came across an add for a
windshield (which I need) and gasket (with chrome) for less than a gasket
costs.
It turns out that they are in a truck that a kid rolled 1 month after a
paint job and having new gasket installed. The roof has been cut off, but
the glass is undamaged and is still installed in the frame. The gasket
supposedly was put in without additional sealant. Anyone know a trick to
popping one out? Because of a bad attempt at doing that on another type of
gasketed windshield, I have always cut gaskets to get them out, but they
were always old brittle ones, not fresh. The windshield is not a new one,
but good shape.
If not popping one out, anyone know a good way to go in and cut the
pillars through to the pinch weld without ruining the gasket?

Jim E.

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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 13:45:14 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Problems fixed...

Date sent: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 10:35:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Problems fixed...

> the battery is charged? THe gauge reads from 0 to 15 amps DC. Is the
> battery fuull at 0 amps or at 15 amps. Thanks.

Amps go down as the battery gets charged due to increased resistance
through it. Put a volt meter on the battery posts while the charger is on it and
you should get more than 12v. It takes about 14v to charge and amps are a
direct result of over voltage, more volts, more amps. Voltage should go up
on the charger as the battery gets closer to charged due to less load loss
through the battery but amps should go down :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 13:13:22 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Problems fixed...

At 01:45 PM 8/31/98 +0000, you wrote:
>Date sent: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 10:35:28 -0700 (PDT)
>From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Problems fixed...
>
>> the battery is charged? THe gauge reads from 0 to 15 amps DC. Is the
>> battery fuull at 0 amps or at 15 amps. Thanks.
>
>Amps go down as the battery gets charged due to increased resistance
>through it. Put a volt meter on the battery posts while the charger is on
it and
>you should get more than 12v. It takes about 14v to charge and amps are a
>direct result of over voltage, more volts, more amps. Voltage should go up
>on the charger as the battery gets closer to charged due to less load loss
>through the battery but amps should go down :-)
>

You mean 0 is the reading when its fully charged (even though it will never
really reach below 1 or 2 in reality)
Just my 2cents

Bill

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
for truck make it ..../Trucks/truck.html
for car make it ..../Cars/mustang.html
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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:28:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: CLARE WATERMAN
Subject: FTE 61-79 - bearing retaining nut

hello all-

i've got a quick question

I was taking off my rear brakes yesterday on my 71 f-250 with dana 60
rear and light duty brakes and after pulling the axel was immediately
confronted by this GIANT bearing retaining locknut. i dont have a
caliper, but measured it to be about 2" 9/16. it is set into the hub so
that it is inacessible by chanelllocks, giant adjustables, or
pipewrtenches. after a tour of the local hardware stores looking for a 2
9/16" socket, i came up empty. i ended up tapping a divot in it with a
chisel and tapping it to unscrew it.

does anyone know the exact size of this nut and have any
non-destructive suggestions for its easy removal?

thanks in advance,

clare

Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
Department of Biology
University of North Carolina
Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280

T: (919)-962-2354
F: (919)-962-1625

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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:05:33 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - bearing retaining nut

Two words: Special tools.

Actually most auto parts stores carry this tool, it's usually a socket made
of what looks like very heavy gauge sheet metal and has a 1/2" drive. Mine
is made by a company called Lisle. They run about $12-$15. Ya gotta have
it!

- ----------
> From: CLARE WATERMAN
> To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - bearing retaining nut
> Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 11:28 AM
>
> hello all-
>
> i've got a quick question
>
> I was taking off my rear brakes yesterday on my 71 f-250 with dana 60
> rear and light duty brakes and after pulling the axel was immediately
> confronted by this GIANT bearing retaining locknut. i dont have a
> caliper, but measured it to be about 2" 9/16. it is set into the hub so
> that it is inacessible by chanelllocks, giant adjustables, or
> pipewrtenches. after a tour of the local hardware stores looking for a 2
> 9/16" socket, i came up empty. i ended up tapping a divot in it with a
> chisel and tapping it to unscrew it.
>
> does anyone know the exact size of this nut and have any
> non-destructive suggestions for its easy removal?
>

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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:02:46 -0500
From: "Brett"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - bearing retaining nut

I was confronted with the same nut when I did the brakes on my 76 F250. I
found a special socket at Bumper to Bumper, and I do believe it is 2 9/16".
I'm sure NAPA would have it also.

Brett
76 F250 4x4 460 c6 38's

>hello all-
>
>i've got a quick question
>
>I was taking off my rear brakes yesterday on my 71 f-250 with dana 60
>rear and light duty brakes and after pulling the axel was immediately
>confronted by this GIANT bearing retaining locknut. i dont have a
>caliper, but measured it to be about 2" 9/16. it is set into the hub so
>that it is inacessible by chanelllocks, giant adjustables, or
>pipewrtenches. after a tour of the local hardware stores looking for a 2
>9/16" socket, i came up empty. i ended up tapping a divot in it with a
>chisel and tapping it to unscrew it.
>
>does anyone know the exact size of this nut and have any
>non-destructive suggestions for its easy removal?
>
>thanks in advance,
>
>clare

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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:49:35 EDT
From: BlueOval77

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - TRANNY PROBLEMS

Aloha! This is slightly off-topic (and I know how you hate those Ken!) ;);
but I've seen posts back and forth on Datsun Z cars and at least this one's a
Ford! lol

I have a 91 Mustang GT. I won't bore you with all the modifications, but
about 4 years or so ago I changed the stock clutch for a Centerforce 1 and had
the tranny (stock T5) rebuilt at the same time. I also changed the stock
shifter at that time with a Pro 5.0 Power Tower (a short-throw shifter). I
found out just recently that the guy who rebuilt it refilled it with gear oil!
I replaced the clutch again - this time with a H.D. Zoom - (I couldn't afford
another Centerforce) and had the gears looked at by another tranny guy.

He related that 1st, 2nd, and reverse showed some signs of wear, but that if
I was low on cash, that I could run it as is without any problems. So I just
refilled the tranny w/auto. fluid and put it back in.

My problem is this - Ever since having the tranny rebuilt it has been HARD
to shift! All shifts are hard, but especially 1st and 5th; and reverse grinds.
That didn't happen before the rebuild. I had a bonafide mechanic (someone
other than me) ;) look at it and he said the problem is in the tranny. The
tranny guy (who came highly recommended) said the problem's in the clutch.
I've adjusted that sucker every which way but loose! (And all clutch parts are
new.) And a friend of mine who helps me work on the car said it seemed to him
that the shifter is the problem! (The hard shifting started just before I
installed the new shifter, but after the rebuild.)

The shifter is built like a brick s__thouse! lol It'll probablly outlast the
car. It has a couple of adjusting bolts to adjust how far you shift in each
gear, but that's it. There's plenty of grease on the shifter mechanism.

Can anyone give me any ideas on what may be the cause of my problem? I'm
desperate! (Otherwise I wouldn't post it here.) :(

John (BlueOval77)
91 Mustang GT
77 F-150 Ranger 4x4
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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:08:48 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - bearing retaining nut

Clare

You might try your library for a Motor or Chiltom manuel.

It should give you the size or a special tool number to use.

I find lots of info in these books.

Always

Larry

At 02:28 PM 8/31/98 -0400, you wrote:
>hello all-
>
>i've got a quick question
>
>I was taking off my rear brakes yesterday on my 71 f-250 with dana 60
>rear and light duty brakes and after pulling the axel was immediately
>confronted by this GIANT bearing retaining locknut. i dont have a
>caliper, but measured it to be about 2" 9/16. it is set into the hub so
>that it is inacessible by chanelllocks, giant adjustables, or
>pipewrtenches. after a tour of the local hardware stores looking for a 2
>9/16" socket, i came up empty. i ended up tapping a divot in it with a
>chisel and tapping it to unscrew it.
>
>does anyone know the exact size of this nut and have any
>non-destructive suggestions for its easy removal?
>
>thanks in advance,
>
>clare
>
>
>
>Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
>Department of Biology
>University of North Carolina
>Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280
>
>T: (919)-962-2354
>F: (919)-962-1625
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:19:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking

bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AC mounting bracket, thanks and so on,

Thanks Azie for suggesting AC brackets from a 390 for my 352. You appear to
be correct that they will work as I have been told that brackets from any FE series
will work. Sure Wished I could find a yard around here with an FE in it.

I also want to pass along the following buisness for anybody looking for hard to
find parts. They helped me with the A/C mounting bracket and said they had
quite a few FE parts. They're pleasant to talk with as
well...http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.metromustang.com

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas

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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 21:15:15 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Did 67-72's 4x4's have dual tanks?

Anybody have or seen a 67-72 4x4 truck with factory dual tanks?????
The ones i've seen are 2wd?????Any help?
Joe
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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 19:40:00 -0700
From: "Matthew R. Maloney"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering box swap

Hey folks,
I have a '75 F-100, this truck has a major design problem, all the
hydraulic steering assist components are located at the axle, not
including the pump of course. This includes the steering spool actuator
and the hydraulic piston. I do alot of four wheeling and I keep
breaking the spool on rocks, needless to say it's a very weak link in
the steering system. What I want to do is convert the steering box over
to one that all the hydraulic assist is integrated in the box itself.
I've been told that a steering box off of a '78-'79 Bronco would be
perfect, with minor modifications of course.

Does any one have any other ideas on this subject that may assist me on
this project?

Thanks,
Matt

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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 20:29:00 -0400
From: "Kerry Walker"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Re: Optima Batteries

Kerry Walker wrote:
>
> Some bozo sent me a corrupted file, so I haven't been receiving my mail
for
> a few days now. I'M BAAACK!!!
>
> JUMPINGFORD wrote
>
> >Have you tried the Optima series batteries? They are worth every >penny.
> In
> >fact they are the only battery to last more than a year in our F-600
> (Diehards
> >had a life of about 18 months). The current Optima has been in that
>truck
> >going on three and a half years.
>
> I have read about them and wondered if they worked like they say they do.
I
> know the dealers are proud of them. If I wasn't getting ready to sell Old
> Blue I might look at them a little harder. She's a good truck, but I need
> cash more than I need a 1 ton. And I can't afford to put any money into
her.
> Thanks for the info anyway, That Wally-World battery I put in my '68 isn't
> going to crank that big block forever : )
>
> Kerry Walker

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

What area of the country do you live in? I live in Phoenix Az., and
have an Optima in my wife's Ch*vy Suburban, and I like it pretty well.
The main thing I like is they don't spew acid all over the place!!

Blaine Strong

I'm in Wichita Falls, Texas. Summers get a little warm here, but it's cooled
off quite a bit lately. Been hanging in the high 90's. " But it's a dry
heat, man." I hadn't thought about heat wearing batteries down. I had just
chalked it up to diesels being hell on batteries.

Kerry Walker

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 21:42:08 -0500
From: Cannandale
Subject: FTE 61-79 - A/C Mounting Hardware

Got a quick question. I need some brackets to install a a/c compressor
on my 460, im gonna make a air pump out of a york like on the
ford-trucks web page. anyways, my engine came out of a '73 lincoln
cont. and had a a/c compressor on it, mounted on the side of the power
steering bracket, any easy way to make one work on it? i dont have the
car anymore, and their not easy to find...

thanx,
cannandale
'78 f250 4x4, 460

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Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 00:11:52 EDT
From: F1fordtruk

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - engine problems

I'm new to list and have a question. I recently bought a 66 F-100 it ran good,
but now doesnt have any power. it feels like it is running out of gas and i
really gotta pump gas to get it going. I already checked out the ignition
system and changed fuel filter. not too familiar with diagnosing the intake
end yet. it has holley double pumper and electric fuel pump. I was told it
could be an intake gasket, but would like to know how to find something like
that out for sure before doing it.....

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