61-79-list-digest Saturday, August 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 426



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Big Trannys
Re: FTE 61-79 - 300 six
FTE 61-79 - towing
FTE 61-79 - Radius Arm Bushing Replacement
FTE 61-79 - 5 sp tranny
FTE 61-79 - Exhaust leak
FTE 61-79 - solenoid clicking
FTE 61-79 - RE MAJOR electrical problems...
FTE 61-79 - More 300 Six...
[none]
FTE 61-79 - Re: bellhousings
Re: FTE 61-79 - towing
FTE 61-79 - Atlanta Get-together in Sept at truck show
Re: FTE 61-79 - MAJOR electrical problems...
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE MAJOR electrical problems...
Re: FTE 61-79 - 300 six
FTE 61-79 - 300 I-6
FTE 61-79 - More about my electrical woes...
FTE 61-79 - cooling
FTE 61-79 - 300 engine
FTE 61-79 - cooling
Re: FTE 61-79 - cooling
Re: FTE 61-79 - cooling
Re: FTE 61-79 - More about my electrical woes...
FTE 61-79 - Major electrical problems
FTE 61-79 - Re: 460 bellhousing
FTE 61-79 - Sound of something bad??

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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 07:02:55 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Big Trannys

If it's an overdrive Clark (5435,I think) it would be worth it.
Otherwise I don't see anything to gain over an NP435. NP makes a 540
5-speed (1:1 high)that was also used in the larger stuff. Both the
Clark and the NP540 have a 1 1/2 in input shaft and I'm not sure if
you'll get a clutch disk to work with a cover that will fit your
flywheel. You also want an iron bellhousing, and the rear adapter is
definitely an issue. You might have to check with Marmon-Herrington to
see if they made one. I'm speculating here but a 370 Lima truck engine
might have a clutch and bellhousing that would work. The bellhousing on
the M is the same as a 385, so the 370 would likely work. The flywheel
is the sticking point, if yours doesn't have a pattern drilled for a big
truck clutch, I don't know where you'd get one.

As far as auto's go, if you found an Allison 5-speed overdrive auto that
would be the one to sell the farm to get. The 5-speed direct we just put
in our hostler cost $2500 for a reman.

To me it would all depend on whether it's an overdrive trans or not.
All this trouble for a 1:1 high IMHO would be unnecessary.

> The 5 sp is most likely a Clark. There will be a tag on one side or the
> other(can't remember which) that will identify it. If it is a 280VO, I
> would like to try to buy it. I have a 285V23 from a '73 F 700. I don't
> believe the adaptor off the Auto will bolt up to the Clark and I'm even
> surerer that the output spline of the Clark is much larger than the Auto,
> so that will be two things that you must hurdle. Anything is possible, so
> it all depends on how much you want to spend. Oh yeah!!! That Clark will
> probably weigh at least 100# more than the auto, if not more,
> Your '78 most likely has a 351M/400, so the bellhousing off the larger
> truck probably won't work because it is most likely a FT block which has
> different bellhousing bolt patterns.

- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 08:28:45 -0400
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 300 six

Well, went a little crazy and this van had a 2 to 2.5 foot lift. Everyone
can check out some pics and stats at, including the '77 corvette yellow
colored 460 being pulled:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://bauer.simplenet.com/jbauer/vanstuff.htm

Well, the 44's just aren't very agile on a 140'x40' lot with house, garage,
greenhouse, awnings and two other fords, plus it just wasn't street legal
enough in OH to pass some of the conservative communitee's I was surounded by.

Plus hey, it was finished, won some local car show awards, figure it is
time for something new (and more practical).

John

>
>I did a 75 but with 33's and can't see how the 4wd could affect getting in
and
>out of a drive way? Mine was pretty agile but only required a 3" lift to
make
>it all fit and work well. I took a 460 out too but the van went all the
way to
>the happy resting place at that point and it now resides in my PU (78).
>

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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 07:58:53 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - towing

Daniel H.,
Don't feel too bad about the Jimmy. Many years ago I had an almost new
Jimmy that had a defective battery. (I hadn't yet seen the Ford blue
beacon.) An older and much wiser gentleman in a much older well worn Ford
pickup gave me a jumpstart. Kindness comes from where we least expect it.
I've never refused to jump start someone if we had the equipment to do it
since that day.

Another time I had a brand new Caddy that died at the mall. My friend had a
36 Dodge that he used for a wrecker. Now that was an ugly truck. Many a
passerby just shook their heads, but I over heard one man say, "That sure
is an ugly truck pulling that Cadillac."


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left door, new left front fender
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (The software box said Windows95 or better, so I
bought a Mac.)
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 08:30:29 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Radius Arm Bushing Replacement

>> My 77 F150 (2wd) radius arm bushing are pretty much gone. To the
>> unexperienced optimist, it looks like I can just undo to nut, push the arm
>> out of it's hole, and R&R the bushings. What's the real story on changing
>> these bushings? Do I need any special tools? What does it take to get
>> the arms out of the frame holes? Does the whole arm have to come off the
>> front end?
>
>If you remove one end of the spring and jack the truck up till the tires
come
>off the ground you may have enough room or maybe just loosening one end
>of the shock will let it droop enough to clear the crossmember and other I
>beam, can't remember but with the right combination you can pull it far
>enough to get them out as I recall. One side moves easier than the other
due
>to the other I beam getting in the way.
>
Gary,
I found it easier on my '68 to drop the entire I-beam. It's only one more
bolt and the brake line and then you don't have to fight the extreme angle
of the radius arm. If you will spray some WD-40 inside the bushing and
start the end into it, as you jack up the I-beam it will go in all by itself.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 10:32:53 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 5 sp tranny

Cannondale writes: >>I have a 460 in my truck. Im willing to spend some
money on it if I have to, know any places that would sell adapters to make
the output shaft work? Or would I have to get a machine shop to make me
one? Better question, would it just be easier to put a diffrent manual in
it than that big 'ol tranny?

Yes!! It probably would be simpler and easier and as reliable to choose
another transmission. I think you will find that 5 speed in your F 600 to
be a monster and much stronger/heavier than necessary for the smaller
trucks. On the other hand you already have the transmission, so you might
come out cheaper, but I doubt it. Having output shafts cut down and
adaptors custom made won't come cheap.

The late model 460 Superduty's with 5 speed would be my choice, but they
aren't cheap by any stretch of the imagination and you might still be faced
with the adaptor dilemma unless you choose to also get the later model
transfercase. Then it would simply be a matter of relocating the
crossmembers for mounting and maybe driveshaft lengthening or shortening.

The F600 or F700 was offered in 4X4, so the necessities may be available.
It would for sure be heavy/strong enough.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 10:35:34 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Exhaust leak

Bill T. writes: >>Any recommendations on good source for crossover
pipe and other parts for the 66 F350?

Midas!!! Local muffler shop!!!

Sounds like you got one of those rare "jewels"

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 10:40:21 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - solenoid clicking

Dan Jenkins writes: The starter solenoid is oscillating VERY quickly
between being open and closed.

Low voltage from battery. Either a dead battery or a very heavy short
someplace. Does the battery cable "arc" when you connect/disconnect it??
If so you have a "load" someplace, and you need to correct this 1st.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 08:22:16 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE MAJOR electrical problems...

Daniel wrote:
- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 22:19:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - MAJOR electrical problems...

Well, once again I spent last night towing my truck home. This
time it was the final straw... I was towed home by a GMC Jimmy. Now,
before you all ostracize me for letting a GMC tow me home, tell me how to
fix my truck!! I was driving home and the truck just died... no power
ata ll. No power to the radio, the lights,nothing. Popped the hood and
saw all sorts of burned electrical tape and melted insulation. I replaced
all this stuff with a harness out of the bone yard; the harness was the
one connecting the alternator, starter solenoid, and voltage regulator.
Put it all back togther, turn the key, nada... The starter solenoid is
oscillating VERY quickly between being open and closed. I tried bypassing
the solenoid with a pair of screwdrivers (I know, really technical) and,
even though A LOT of sparks flew, the motor didn't turn over. Anybody out
ther got any ideas. I'm getting tired of having to drive around the puny
little four banger I'm stuck driving. Thanks in advance to those who
help...

- -
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---
My reply:
Could be the starter has failed or is now dead from a bad solenoid. Mine
went bad and was unable to reliably turn the motor over. When it gave up
the ghost I could hear it engage and just start to turn and then groan to a
halt. After that the started gear was stuck engaged and if I turned the key
just the solenoid would click. I was able to get the starter to disengage
by turning the motor by hand 1/8 to 1/4 turn but then when I hit the key the
same thing would happen. You might try to disengage your starter like that
and then see if it will start. If you do replace your starter do the
solenoid also as insurance. It could be the solenoid shorted, engaged the
starter while the engine was running, burned up the starter and the wiring
harness. I'm not sure what this would do to the alternator or regulator.

Good luck
Tom H.
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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 09:24:31 -0700
From: "Robert Houlne"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - More 300 Six...

Hey Gary, just one question comes to mind, what gas milege do you get on all
those 460's....lol

Robert



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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 10:18:17 PDT
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: [none]

>>>Many thanks for responding. I think you hit the jack pot. Indeed the
truck
has an exhaust leak. The manifold gasket (flat) is
leaking. I have been
holding off installing the gasket until a replacement
crossover pipe (rough
weld job) can be located.

You better find a replacement exhaust manifold while you are at it.
When i bought my '70 f-250/ 360, it had a leaky manifold gasket. Looked
like a piece of cake to change.......HA!!!..Once i got it off(broken
bolts and broken sockets...) the manifold turned out to be cracked and
the gasket surface on the manifold was very badly pitted and rusted.
Good thing i have a parts truck!!!

Don Jones

'85 F150 supercab~~~~~FOR SALE~~
'70 F-250 4x4 ~~FORDZILLA~~


______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 13:27:05 -0400
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: bellhousings

>Just for informational purposes the 429 in Torinos was offered with a 4
>speed starting in '70 I think. I checked on this at my local FOMOCO parts
>dept and the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate was listed as "discontinued".
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.

You can also use a Boss 429 flywheel on the regular 429/460s. I ordered
one from Ford about 12 yrs ago, but I don't know if you can still
get them or not. I can look up the part number if anyone wants. The
only advantage to the Boss 429 flywheel is the 12 inch clutch (which I
recall a debate a while back on the benefits/drawbacks of).
Just some useless information for you all.

Ohio Bill
1968 Torino GT (429 4V 4speed)
1968 F100 (360 4V 4speed)
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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 10:40:07 -0700
From: MC
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - towing

This makes me think of a time while I lived in Phoenix and my roommate and I
took his D*dge van to Payson, about 70 miles northeast of Phoenix. We got a
flat tire on the way home and had no spare or jack and all the stores where
closed in Payson. We sat along the highway and pondered our fate until a
cowboy in a beautiful red and white F250 extended cab stopped to see what was
up. He wound up giving us a ride all the way back to Phoenix. My roommate
hated Fords and cowboys, so I never let him forget that his d*dge died and we
got rescued by a cowboy in a Ford.

John LaGrone wrote:

> Daniel H.,
> Don't feel too bad about the Jimmy. Many years ago I had an almost new
> Jimmy that had a defective battery. (I hadn't yet seen the Ford blue
> beacon.) An older and much wiser gentleman in a much older well worn Ford
> pickup gave me a jumpstart. Kindness comes from where we least expect it.
> I've never refused to jump start someone if we had the equipment to do it
> since that day.
>
> Another time I had a brand new Caddy that died at the mall. My friend had a
> 36 Dodge that he used for a wrecker. Now that was an ugly truck. Many a
> passerby just shook their heads, but I over heard one man say, "That sure
> is an ugly truck pulling that Cadillac."
>
> -John
>
> jlagrone ford-trucks.com
> 1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left door, new left front fender
> 1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
> Macintosh G3/233 minitower (The software box said Windows95 or better, so I
> bought a Mac.)
> 1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)
>
> Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



- --
Draygo
Insert something cool here....


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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 13:56:31 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Atlanta Get-together in Sept at truck show

I'd like to meet up with other Georgia FTE list members Saturary,
Sept 12th. Petersen is having the U.S. Truck Fest at the Atlanta
Motor Speedway from Sept 11-13. Tickets are $15, $5 for children
3-12. If you buy in advance they are $12 and $5, available at
Ticketmaster locations. The Atlanta Motor Speedway is 40-50
miles south of Atlanta.

Everything from custom/classic trucks, 4x4s, truck races, monster
trucks, mudding, you name it, there's a little for everyone - even
a "Kids Extreme Zone." If you want to meet up with other FTE
members, please email me (kpayne ford-trucks.com) and we can work
out the details. If you leave your phone number I'll get in touch
directly - otherwise I'll email you. Peggy, the kids and I plan to
be at the show. Gary Bowling, it sure would be nice to see your
67 again (I'm jealous, I have its picture next to my computer!).

I found this information on Petersen's web site:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.petersenevents.com/truck_events/tre_f.html

Ken Payne
CoAdmin (kpayne ford-trucks.com)


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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 11:05:56 -0700 (MST)
From: Andrew Ford -- Speaking for Myself
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - MAJOR electrical problems...

On Aug 27, 22:19, FTE 61-79 - MAJOR electrical problems... Daniel H. Jenkins wrote:
> Well, once again I spent last night towing my truck home. This
> time it was the final straw... I was towed home by a GMC Jimmy. Now,
> before you all ostracize me for letting a GMC tow me home, tell me how to
> fix my truck!! I was driving home and the truck just died... no power
> ata ll. No power to the radio, the lights,nothing. Popped the hood and
> saw all sorts of burned electrical tape and melted insulation. I replaced
> all this stuff with a harness out of the bone yard; the harness was the
> one connecting the alternator, starter solenoid, and voltage regulator.
> Put it all back togther, turn the key, nada... The starter solenoid is

I am hearing this right? You burnt out your power harness and then replaced
just the harness and tried to run again?


Battery cables do not melt the insulation unless something is drawing a
whopping load of current. Melted cables are a *sure* sign that something is
wrong - usually someplace other than the cables.


That something is usually a short - in the wires, solenoid,
starter, voltage regulator, or alternator.

The battery is probably shot, too.

I'd start by testing the above list. If the starter or solenoid is bad,
replace both.

Check the battery ground cable, too.



Good Luck,
78 F150 Ranger 4x4 supercab / 351M
- --
Andrew Ford (602)581-4499
forda agcs.com Si vis pacem, parabellum.
Above is *my* opinion, for theirs see below...
AG Communication Systems - Expand the power of your network.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.agcs.com
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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 14:17:10 -0400
From: Jay Grover
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE MAJOR electrical problems...

Daniel,
Sounds like the starter is fried. I've had the same thing happen to me
when I had a 429. Someone told me that the 429 exhaust manifold ran too
close to the starter, and heats the starter excessively (particularly
bad for warm engine restarts, cause the starter motor actually drags on
the casing). I made a heat sheild out of a wire coat hanger and some
sheet asbestos (yeah, this was a few years ago when asbestos didn't hurt
anybody!). Anyways I never fried another starter on that engine. I
subsequently did the same thing for my 351W w/headers. In both cases,
my warm engine restarts improved, so I imagine that the starter life was
increased as well.
BTW - Does anyone have an idea for another good material for making a
starter heat sheild (I can find sheet asbestos anymore, and I'm all
out!).

Jay

> Daniel wrote:
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 22:19:35 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - MAJOR electrical problems...
>
> Well, once again I spent last night towing my truck home. This
> time it was the final straw... I was towed home by a GMC Jimmy. Now,
> before you all ostracize me for letting a GMC tow me home, tell me how to
> fix my truck!! I was driving home and the truck just died... no power
> ata ll. No power to the radio, the lights,nothing. Popped the hood and
> saw all sorts of burned electrical tape and melted insulation. I replaced
> all this stuff with a harness out of the bone yard; the harness was the
> one connecting the alternator, starter solenoid, and voltage regulator.
> Put it all back togther, turn the key, nada... The starter solenoid is
> oscillating VERY quickly between being open and closed. I tried bypassing
> the solenoid with a pair of screwdrivers (I know, really technical) and,
> even though A LOT of sparks flew, the motor didn't turn over. Anybody out
> ther got any ideas. I'm getting tired of having to drive around the puny
> little four banger I'm stuck driving. Thanks in advance to those who
> help...

- --
"but, this one goes to eleven..."
Jay Grover
jgrover mbvlab.wpafb.af.mil
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glasscity.net/users/jcg
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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 14:35:20 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 300 six

Hey Deacon- Nobody ever said Defenseless!! 8-)

(besides if it weren't for us young-whipper-snappers, you old' grouches
wouldn't have any body to git' all hot and bothered about!! (grin))

Tony

At 11:49 PM 8/27/98 -0700, you wrote:
>From: Tony Marino
>>> and hold it's own? I'd have to argue!!! (this is not an invitation
>to an
>>> engine war, just my own viewpoints and opinions, please guys, don't
>jump
>>> on this! 8-)
>
>From: Gary, 78 BBB
>>Ohhhhhhh Maaaaaaaaan! Wide open hehehe :-)
>
>Defenseless kids leaving themselves wide open like that. With an invite
>to boot! God love'em. (snicker snicker) :]
>
>Deacon
>deconblu gte.net http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
>==============================================
>Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm
>==============================================
>
>
>
>
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>
>
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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 15:25:17 -0500
From: al.giordano AMETEK.COM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 300 I-6

Being a 300 I-6 owner I had to put my 2 cents in for this engine=2E
My 1977 F250 hi-boy with the NP435 4 spd and NP 205 xfer case has been=20=
plowing snow for all it's life and this beast still has the power and=20=
torque it had when new, I feel this is the best six on the planet=2E
I've been a member of this list for a while now but usually don't have=20=
the time to post anything till now ,however I read everything=2E I've=20=
been the owner of this truck since new, bought off the lot for (get=20=
this) $6500=2E00 can't touch them for that now=2E
On another matter I also have a 1968 E200 van=2E=2E=2Edoes anyone know where=20=
I can find a speedometer gear for the C4 tranny ? I removed the 240=20=
w/3 spd and installed a 289 w/C4 auto both of which I rebuilt=2E They=20=
were from a 68 Fairlane w/ 14" wheels =2E=2Emy van has 15" wheels so now=20=
the speedo is off=2E Any info would be appreciated=2E

1977 F250 300-I6 4spd=2E
1968 E200 289 4bbl=2EC4 thanks
1985 VW Quantum Syncro 4x4 (wifes) al g=2E

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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 13:30:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - More about my electrical woes...

OK, here's even more information for you guys to digest about my
electrical problems. THe reason that the wires melted, as best as I can
tell, is because I pulled a stupid human trick. I recently added a second
battery to my truck; I switch between them using a really BIG switch. I
had completely killed one of the batteries by leaving the lights on and so
was running the truck while charging both batteries. I assume this caused
far too much amperage to be drawn across these lines. I figure as long as
I don't do anything this stupid ever again I'll be alright.
I've tried replacing the solenoid and the voltage regulator. It
still won't start... :( As a side note, the truck would crank over when I
was done doing the patch job on it. Of course, my patch job didn't look
real safe so I went ahead and installed a new harness. Let me know if you
guys need any more information here. I"m pulling at straws and I'm
getting tired of sharing a car. Thanks again to all those who help!


- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel H. Jenkins Food for thought: John Milton
djenkins honors.unr.edu wrote _Paradise_Lost_; When his
Honors Program wife died he wrote _Paradise_
University of Nevada, Reno _Regained_...

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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 15:31:21 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cooling

General questions to the gang.

My bone yard man said that a smaller water pump pulley would push more
water through at slower engine speeds. This makes sense, but it seems to me
that at higher speeds you would generate bubbles or suck hoses flat. At
what rpm would these problems occur if at all? Is changing the pulley a
worthwhile option to pursue? I know there was some pulley discussion a few
months back, but I don't think it was along this vein. He also suggested
going back to a fan clutch, but that isn't an option as far as I'm
concerned.

I examined my truck and the 75ish LTD. The air conditioner and PS brackets
alone won't swap. The water pump bosses are different where the brackets
bolt up, so I would also have to change water pumps. the air conditioner
system itself is a Harrison system that is totally different from my
FoMoCo. Also, the LTD has a 5 blade flex fan with a 2.5 inch spacer, but it
has a cross-flow radiator. It was my understanding that everyone went to
crossflow so that the hood profile could be lowered, but do they also cool
better?

Bummer. The more I ponder this, the more I think that my particular cooling
problem is air flow, not coolant flow or capacity. Pass the salt. I may
wind up with some pusher electric fans yet and a good helping of crow.
Wouldn't be the first time......................

Have a great weekend everyone.



- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left door, new left front fender
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (The software box said Windows95 or better, so I
bought a Mac.)
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 13:35:16 PDT
From: "gene gardner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 300 engine

>I was wondering how many of you have or have had a Ford truck with >the
300 six ...

Glad you asked, Robert -- the list usually doesn't discuss the
six-bangers much (which doesn't stop me from reading every word). I had
a remanufactured 300 put in last year and I can testify it's a
workingman's classic (and all the old-timers I rely on for advice seem
to agree). Great combination of power, simplicity and economy.

Gene Gardner, "The Texican"
Hermosillo Mexico by way of West Texas
genegow hotmail.com

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 16:00:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cooling

>> John wrote:
My bone yard man said that a smaller water pump pulley would push more
water through at slower engine speeds. This makes sense, but it seems to me
that at higher speeds you would generate bubbles or suck hoses flat. At
what rpm would these problems occur if at all?

I believe the change in speed is simply the ratio of the two pulley diameters.

I dont think pump speed alone can generate bubbles. If its a closed system
where would the bubbles come from? If you went fast enough, I think it could
cause cavitation, but that's pretty unlikely unless you go to a really really small
pulley. It also seems unlikely that it could suck the hoses flat, again, its a closed
system and for that to happen water would have to be storing somewhere else.
Of course this is just theory as I have no practical experience and I wasn't too
attentive in fluid mechanics class...

>> John again:
Bummer. The more I ponder this, the more I think that my particular cooling
problem is air flow, not coolant flow or capacity

You're talking low speeds, right? My general rule is: low speeds think air flow,
high speeds think water flow. If there is enough coolant to maintain temp under
load, then there is enough coolant to maintain temp at idle (or low speed),
therefore it is most likely a problem with getting the heat outta the coolant.

Of course, opinions are like noses....everyone has one OR
opinions are like Ford Trucks, everyone should have AT LEAST one!

Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 15:05:11 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cooling

>My bone yard man said that a smaller water pump pulley would push more
>water through at slower engine speeds. This makes sense, but it seems to me
>that at higher speeds you would generate bubbles or suck hoses flat. At
>what rpm would these problems occur if at all? Is changing the pulley a
>worthwhile option to pursue? I know there was some pulley discussion a few
>months back, but I don't think it was along this vein. He also suggested
>going back to a fan clutch, but that isn't an option as far as I'm
>concerned.

As long as You aren't turning outrageously high RPM's You shouldn't
have any pump cavitation problems by using a smaller H2O pump pulley.
It may help some, since it spins both the water pump and the fan a
little faster.

>I examined my truck and the 75ish LTD. The air conditioner and PS brackets
>alone won't swap. The water pump bosses are different where the brackets
>bolt up, so I would also have to change water pumps. the air conditioner
>system itself is a Harrison system that is totally different from my
>FoMoCo. Also, the LTD has a 5 blade flex fan with a 2.5 inch spacer, but it
>has a cross-flow radiator. It was my understanding that everyone went to
>crossflow so that the hood profile could be lowered, but do they also cool
>better?

I don't think the cross flow rads cool any better, they're just shorter
to get the hood line down.

>Bummer. The more I ponder this, the more I think that my particular cooling
>problem is air flow, not coolant flow or capacity. Pass the salt. I may
>wind up with some pusher electric fans yet

A pusher fan as an assist for the stock fan might help a lot.
Remember that You'll have to swap the + and - leads on the fan so it
moves air the right direction. (unless the fan was designed to be a
pusher) Also, a lot of fans have curved blades and they don't work
as efficiently when run backwards.

> and a good helping of crow.
>Wouldn't be the first time......................

Hehe, I've eaten so much crow in my lifetime that I'm starting to
aquire a taste for it.. (-:
I've got some good stir-fry recipes if You need them.
Mmmm, Szechuan crow!


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

All that I needed to know in life, I learned by
killing smart people and eating their brains.


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 15:05:12 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cooling

>>> John again:
>Bummer. The more I ponder this, the more I think that my particular cooling
>problem is air flow, not coolant flow or capacity

>You're talking low speeds, right? My general rule is: low speeds think air
flow,
>high speeds think water flow.

Yeah, I gotta agree with this. If You have adequate cooling at high
speed, but overheat at low speed or idle, it's almost always an air flow
problem.


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

All that I needed to know in life, I learned by
killing smart people and eating their brains.


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 15:05:06 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - More about my electrical woes...

> OK, here's even more information for you guys to digest about my
>electrical problems. THe reason that the wires melted, as best as I can
>tell, is because I pulled a stupid human trick. I recently added a second
>battery to my truck; I switch between them using a really BIG switch. I
>had completely killed one of the batteries by leaving the lights on and so
>was running the truck while charging both batteries. I assume this caused
>far too much amperage to be drawn across these lines. I figure as long as
>I don't do anything this stupid ever again I'll be alright.
> I've tried replacing the solenoid and the voltage regulator. It
>still won't start... :( As a side note, the truck would crank over when I
>was done doing the patch job on it. Of course, my patch job didn't look
>real safe so I went ahead and installed a new harness. Let me know if you
>guys need any more information here. I"m pulling at straws and I'm
>getting tired of sharing a car. Thanks again to all those who help!

You might wanna make sure that the ground cable from the battery to the
engine block is O.K.
I watched a guy change a starter motor, solenoid and ignition switch on
an F350, only to find out that the battery ground was fried out of it's
lug on the block... Fixed the ground cable and all was well.

Also, where is Your second battery grounded? To the block or the chassis
of the truck? If it's grounded to the chassis, You might wanna check
and make sure that the ground wire from the engine to the chassis is O.K.
It's usually connected from the back of the block or head to the firewall
somewhere. It's not a very heavy wire, and isn't really rated for the
amount of current the starter draws, so it may have smoked.
If Your second battery is grounded to the chassis rather than the block,
You should replace it with a fatter wire. (or ground the battery to
the block, which is really the correct way to do it..)
I've seen a set of driveshaft u-joints get smoked once, because the
engine to chassis ground wire was missing, and the only ground return
path was thru the driveline. U could see the black arc-marks on the
u-joint cross. That's gotta be real bad for the tranny output shaft
bearings also.

Just more straws for Your grasping pleasure...


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

All that I needed to know in life, I learned by
killing smart people and eating their brains.


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 20:21:24 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Major electrical problems

>>Put it all back togther, turn the key, nada... The starter solenoid is
>>oscillating VERY quickly between being open and closed.
>
> Never heard that one before. :} try changing the starter solenoid.

Daniel,
I have tried to fix this problem before by changing the solenoid only to
discover that the solenoid was good.....turned out to be poor battery
connection at the battery terminals. The bad connection will get hot after
a few tries at starting. The solenoid closes, starter tries to crank but
can't because of the poor connection, starter pulls the voltage down to the
point where the solenoid drops out, as soon as the solenoid drops the
voltage goes back up and the solenoid closes again......it will oscillate as
long as you hold the key.....or until something burns up!

'course that assumes that all your wiring is back where it belongs!
Good Luck!
later,
dale c


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Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 21:55:24 EDT
From: NUTCH11 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 460 bellhousing

hi

according to hp books the bellhousing on all 351m/400(except the 1973 fmx
installed in a fullsized ford) will bolt up to 429/460 engines.....


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