61-79-list-digest Wednesday, August 26 1998 Volume 02 : Number 422



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum and timing.
FTE 61-79 - Hump heighth
FTE 61-79 - beverage of choice
Re: FTE 61-79 - 240-300 straight six swap
Re: FTE 61-79 - motor woes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hump heighth
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hump heighth
Re: FTE 61-79 - 240-300 straight six swap
Re: FTE 61-79 - beverage of choice
Re: FTE 61-79 - 240-300 straight six swap
Re: FTE 61-79 - 240-300 straight six swap
RE: FTE 61-79 - Heating up in traffic
RE: FTE 61-79 - Downshift Linkage
RE: FTE 61-79 - 71 Resto update/slow but happenin'
Re: FTE 61-79 - beverage of choice
FTE 61-79 - 4x4 Disc Brake Conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - Synthetic oils
Re: FTE 61-79 - Suggestions needed for Radius rods
FTE 61-79 - Question on Welders
FTE 61-79 - RE:Carpeting
Re: FTE 61-79 - Deeep Water
FTE 61-79 - 460 bellhousings
FTE 61-79 - axle vent hole
FTE 61-79 - Thrashed Spindles.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Windshield Weatherstripping
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE mounts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hump heighth
FTE 61-79 - Re: Windshield Weatherstripping
FTE 61-79 - more radiator
Re: FTE 61-79 - Synthetic oils
FTE 61-79 - Re: Autro tranny w/ column shift?
Re: FTE 61-79 - axle vent hole

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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 14:31:22 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum and timing.

From: "John Peck"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vacuum and timing.
Date sent: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:56:18 -0400

> Some of the
> things I would like to know is how to check the vacuum advance on the
> distrubitor and if 6 BTDC is correct. I also checked dwell and it sits
> correct.

If you hook up a timing light with vac connected you should be getting nearly
40 degrees at idle with manifold vac. With it hooked to manifold vac rev the
engine, hard and watch the marks, they should go down initially, not up if it's
working. If it's connected to ported vac it won't give the same result.

You don't have much time to view it because the vacuum will equalize very
quickly but it's sufficient to get a vague idea as to whether it's doing anything.
Before this test, take the cap off and manually check the movements. The
rotor should move in relation to the shaft and the vac plate should be free to
move with the vac linkage against the vac spring of course. If it seem a bit
tight spray some wd40 or light oil in the bearing of the vac plate and work it
till it loosens up. Don't get too messy in there though, expecailly if it's points
ignition you will have to wipe it out carefully afterward.

If the timing doesn't seem to be right you can use a piston stop to find true
TDC on the damper and either move the pointer or mark the damper then use
timing tape to reset the timing.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 14:55:23 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hump heighth

Stu writes: >>As far as the carpet being 3 inches too short, do you have
an 8 inch high trans hump (usually manuals) or a 5 inch high hump (usually
autos)?? It does make difference in the product you order

Are you joshing me???????? Different hump heights for a manual than for
the auto????? Does this apply to the '73/'79's also???? I can't believe
I've been working on these things since their inception and have not
noticed this. If true, then This Old Dog just learned a new
trick!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Azie
Ardmore, Al.




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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 15:07:10 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - beverage of choice

Steve DeL. writes: >>a Sierra Nevada Porter, a Deschutes Black Butte
Porter, or maybe a Guinness Stout. For hot weather swaps, I prefer a
Pyramid Hefeweizen or Sierra Nevada Wheat beer. If You prefer Lagers, it's
pretty hard to beat a Gordon Biersch Marzen..

I haven't drank a case of beer in the last 20 years, and I guess it's a
good thing. I've never heard of a single one of these drinks. !! What
are you doing to us Steve??? A lesson in the "finer" tastes of the
affluent ??? When I did partake of the beverages I preferred Miller High
Life in the summer and Black Label Jack Daniels on the rocks in the winter.
I'd be lost in the world you just portrayed.

Oh Well!!!

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 15:07:01 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240-300 straight six swap

In a message dated 8/25/98 11:37:46 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
sdelanty sonic.net writes:


of Your "beverage of choice". For cold weather engine swaps, I might go
with a Sierra Nevada Porter, a Deschutes Black Butte Porter, or maybe
a Guinness Stout. For hot weather swaps, I prefer a Pyramid Hefeweizen
or Sierra Nevada Wheat beer. If You prefer Lagers, it's pretty hard to
beat a Gordon Biersch Marzen... >>


Iv'e never thought about which beers go best when, but I know I will take your
advice to heart. Thanks

JUMPINFORD AOL.com
73 F-250 RangerXLT Camper Special
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 15:09:35 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - motor woes

Date sent: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 12:07:41 -0400
From: Mike Elmer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - motor woes

> I smoked the 360(lost comp.in 3and5,had good O/P up to that point) in my
> 1969 f250 Camper Speical a couple days ago on my way to work.My question
> is:do I rebuild and make up-grades ie:cam,4bbl manifold and carb or search
> fo a 390.

Bummer about the mileage. I trashed the bearings in a windsor at 50k once
because it had an oil leak and all the oil ran out, 2 seconds and it was all over
:-(

What you do depends on funds, time, ambition and ..........need :-) If you
have a reputable machine shop with a rep for helping DIY types then rebuild
it unless you want the power of the 390 then you can buy one that runs, pop
it in and when it dies rebuilt it instead or do like the "retentive" guys on the
list and rebuild it first. Kinda depends on what condition it's in I suppose
and your needs at the moment.

If you have equipment to do your own engine pulls and assy work then go
for the 390 if that's what you want. Don't foget to add up the costs before
you plunge in :-(

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 15:13:43 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hump heighth

From: am14 chrysler.com
Date sent: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 14:55:23 -0400
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hump heighth

> Are you joshing me???????? Different hump heights for a manual than for
> the auto????? Does this apply to the '73/'79's also???? I can't believe
> I've been working on these things since their inception and have not
> noticed this. If true, then This Old Dog just learned a new
> trick!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Since many have a removable hump in the tranny area I can see how that's
possible but not if the hump is integral with the floor......? I'm reasonably
sure there are no body shape differences in the integral parts.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 15:07:46 -0500
From: Jim Henjum
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hump heighth

am14 chrysler.com wrote:

> Are you joshing me???????? Different hump heights for a manual than for
> the auto????? Does this apply to the '73/'79's also???? I can't believe
> I've been working on these things since their inception and have not
> noticed this. If true, then This Old Dog just learned a new
> trick!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>

They are different, even on the 73 - 79's. Two-wheel drive autos (and I
suppose 3 in the trees) have a small hump that is molded in. I think all four
speeds and/or 4x4s have a bolt on hump that is taller, and has the holes cut
out. My '75 f250 4x4 had a C6 and it had a bolt on hump with one hole for the
transfer case shifter. When I put a four speed in, I found a hump with two
holes in it for both shifters. My '78 2wd (302 and C4) had the small hump;
when I put this body on my '75 F250 4x4, I cut out the floor and bolted on the
larger hump I needed. Now I need a new floor mat because I have a larger hump.

Ross Henjum

'75 F250 4x4 460 NP435 "married" NP205

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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 14:27:30 -0600
From: "Richard Currit"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240-300 straight six swap

Steve answers with what I was hoping to hear:

>The 300 will bolt right in. Same block, same mounts, straight swap.

And then throws in some very good further advise on the proper beverage of =
choice.=20
=20
All very good advice that I will keep in mind. All beverages on my list. =
However, I think I will go with a Grants Russian Imperial Stout with an =
Old Bushmills backup on those cold days. And any good India Pale Ale on =
the hot. When I work one of my Brand X cars, I drink Olympia, it gets me =
in the mood and maintains quality consistancy.

Thanks again for the engine swap info.

Richard =20
'72 F-100

=20
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 14:03:51 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - beverage of choice

A man after my own heart! The champagne of beers and the finest sippin'
whiskey that money can buy. Funny thing my truck always seems to run much
better and look much nicer after liberal applications of these fine
libations. Wonder why?

- ----------
> From: am14 chrysler.com
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - beverage of choice
> Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 12:07 PM
>



> When I did partake of the beverages I preferred Miller High
> Life in the summer and Black Label Jack Daniels on the rocks in the
winter.


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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 16:05:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240-300 straight six swap

>
>For hot weather swaps, I prefer a Pyramid Hefeweizen
>or Sierra Nevada Wheat beer. If You prefer Lagers, it's pretty hard to
>beat a Gordon Biersch Marzen...

I'm kinda partial to the Celis line. The Celis White is pretty hard to beat on a hot
day. And it's brewed in Texas!
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 15:06:09 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240-300 straight six swap

>Steve answers with what I was hoping to hear:
>
>>The 300 will bolt right in. Same block, same mounts, straight swap.
>
>And then throws in some very good further advise on the proper beverage of
choice.
>
> All very good advice that I will keep in mind. All beverages on my list.
> However, I think I will go with a Grants Russian Imperial Stout with an
> Old Bushmills backup on those cold days. And any good India Pale Ale on
the hot.

Ohhh YES! I think the Grants Russian Imperial stout and/or a good IPA is
an EXCELLENT choice!

Nevr tried the Celis that bkirking mentions, but if someone would send me a
six-pack I'd be happy to evaluate it next time I'm working on the truck! (-:

I'm a little leary of Azies recommendation for J.D., that usually ends up
with me getting myself hurt or arrested...

While You've got the motor out for the swap, don't forget to throw a fresh
input shaft seal and plate gasket on that 4-speed. It only takes a few
minutes to change them while the engine is out.


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 18:48:13 -0400
From: "Ken Schneider"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Heating up in traffic

I'm supprised that everyone is having so many cooling problems that are
radiator related. My 68 F100 w/360 has the original radiator in it still,
and is clean inside. The only modification I have made to the cooling
system was a flex fan.

I've had this truck for a year, (summer driven only, never seen salt) but I
don't believe myself that a radiator can last this long.

Ken

68 F100 360/C6/3.25's

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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 18:54:13 -0400
From: "Ken Schneider"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Downshift Linkage

This is going to sound stupid, but check to see that your throttle is
opening all the way when you press the pedal to the floor. This ended up
being my problem (I have a stock 2bbl, not an Edlebrock). Lot more power
now, vs. 3/4 throttle!

Also check to see that the vacuum is dropping when you give it the gas.

Ken
68 F100 360/C6/3.25's


> I just got a downshift linkage for my '78 f250 today, it didnt have one
> when I got it, and I cant figure out how to adjust it to downshift. Im
> running a edlebrock with the downshift adapter on it, so I know its a
> little diffrent than a stock carb. I know that the transmission
> is suppost
> to downshift into 2nd gear, but it dosent at all, and the shaft does move,
> moves the arm on the transmission almost an inch. Took a look at
> a friends
> truck ('78 f150), but couldnt figure out anything. It kinda sucks when I
> tow a heavy trailer up a hill and it dosent downshift.. :( Oh well...
>
>
> cannandale
> '78 F250 4x4, 460

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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 18:59:51 -0400
From: "Ken Schneider"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 71 Resto update/slow but happenin'

I'm guessing I have the 5", since this truck has a completely stock
drivetrain setup (#'s Match). I'll go measure it since It's accessable...

Thanx for the Idea

Ken

> As far as the carpet being 3 inches too short, do you have an 8 inch high
trans hump usually manuals) or a 5 inch high >hump (usually autos)?? It
does make difference in the product you order.
>
> Hope it helps
> Stu
> Nuke GM!
> visit my homepage at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu

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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:06:58 +0000
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - beverage of choice

> Steve DeL. writes: >>a Sierra Nevada Porter, a Deschutes Black Butte
> Porter, or maybe a Guinness Stout. For hot weather swaps, I prefer a
> Pyramid Hefeweizen or Sierra Nevada Wheat beer. If You prefer Lagers, it's
> pretty hard to beat a Gordon Biersch Marzen..
>

MGD bottle.

Anyone have any good experience with 7.3 diesels? Not just swapping them but
in everyday use.

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 20:31:49 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 4x4 Disc Brake Conversion

Hey Joe,

Did this on my 69 F-100 4x4.....except I used 76' F-250 parts. If you want to
stick with F-150 parts (76-79, maybe 75', don't know exactly when they started
offering discs on the F-150 4x4's) Then you will have to either modify or
convert over your steering knuckles. The drum brake units use 6 bolts to hold
the spindles, and the disc brake units use 5.

If you do change the knuckles, you'll discover that your old tie rods won't
fit correctly anymore. You'll need to update those as well, preferably to the
78-79 F-150 or Bronco setup (avoid the 76-77 F-150 setup)....

You'll also need to install the newer proportioning valve as well....

Send me a message and maybe I can fill in a little more on the stuff I ran
into.

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 20:56:00 EDT
From: Bato125 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Synthetic oils

Hey where do you send your mail so that everyone that is on the ford mailing
list can recieve it?Thanks
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:01:56 EDT
From: OldTrux aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Suggestions needed for Radius rods

In a message dated 8/24/98 8:10:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
inkdezjim email.msn.com writes:


(the bushings where it attaches to the frame) the diameter of the shaft is
reduce due to rust and movement. >>

I took mine (from a '66 4x4) to a welder/machinist. He cut off the old end,
drilled out the radius rod and made new ends which he pressed in and welded.
Better than new now!
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:00:57 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Question on Welders

I was wondering if anybody has worked with the gasless Mig welders or
also called Flux Core wire welding....Can it be used to do body work
ie. welding repair panels????
Joe
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:47:09 -0400
From: Garry Bowling
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:Carpeting

Ken Schneider "What kind of carpeting has everyone used?"
Ken when I restored my 67 I went to an upholstrey shop and ordered
through them. I had the seat covered at the same time .. The carpet fit
perfect.
Consider a shop in your area.
Garry Bowling
67 F100 Longbed

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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 22:13:08 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Deeep Water

> Today i greased
> the front end and all the U-Joints and checked the transmission,
> transfer cases and axles for water (there wasn't any). Can anyone think
> of anything else i should be looking at?? what abouyt the front hubs?.

Unless you had waist high axle vent lines, you will definately have
water in the diff's. As soon as you dunk a diff, the fluid contracts and
sucks in what ever is on the end of vent tube. My guess is you have
stock vent tubes. Change the diff fluids and definately repack hubs and
bearings. I've been using a marine grease from pep boys for about a
year. It works great in my Bronco and on my boat trailer also. If bottom
was mucky, you may also want to pull drums and see if anything got
inside. I would also run my hands over the entire carpet and check for
leakage. If water gets inbetween carpet and floor, a hole will follow
shortly. Ask me how I know :-)

OX
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:10:12 -0500
From: "JAMES MERLO"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 bellhousings

Over the past several weeks, I have read comments about the shortage of
bellhousings for 460 motors. It would seem to me since the 351M/400M use
the same bellhousing pattern, that if a 351M/400M motor/trans combination
was found, this bellhousing could be used.
At leas this seems to open up the possibilities for 460 bellhousings. Does
this make sense? Is this accurate?

I am further thinking that with this approach, one would have to determine
if the transmission behind the 351M/400M was durable enough. I mention
this because in a 5 second scan of Hollander we found that 351M
bellhousings, for the particular year we looked at were not shown as
interchangeable with the 460. I attribute this to the difference in
transmissions - the guy at the yard said it was because the 351/400M didn't
share bellhousing patterns with the 460. I didn't want to push the point
with him - my source of knowledge is this group on this issue.

I would appreciate your thoughts on this matter as I will soon be in the
acquisition mode.

On a related item, what are the distinguishing marks to differentiate the
T18/T19 and NP435? Do the bolt up interchangeably to bellhousings?


Jim Merlo
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:14:00 -0500
From: "JAMES MERLO"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - axle vent hole

This may sound really stupid, but on my spicer 70, where is the vent hole?
I have a drain plug in the bottom and a fill plug on the cover about 2/3
of the way up. I don't see a vent hole. What purpose does this vent hole
serve? Where is it?

- ----------
> From: luxjo thecore.com
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Deeep Water
> Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 9:13 PM
>
> > Today i greased
> > the front end and all the U-Joints and checked the transmission,
> > transfer cases and axles for water (there wasn't any). Can anyone think
> > of anything else i should be looking at?? what abouyt the front hubs?.
>
> Unless you had waist high axle vent lines, you will definately have
> water in the diff's. As soon as you dunk a diff, the fluid contracts and
> sucks in what ever is on the end of vent tube. My guess is you have
> stock vent tubes. Change the diff fluids and definately repack hubs and
> bearings. I've been using a marine grease from pep boys for about a
> year. It works great in my Bronco and on my boat trailer also. If bottom
> was mucky, you may also want to pull drums and see if anything got
> inside. I would also run my hands over the entire carpet and check for
> leakage. If water gets inbetween carpet and floor, a hole will follow
> shortly. Ask me how I know :-)
>
> OX
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 19:35:31 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Thrashed Spindles.

>From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
>>From: Denise McCullough Strong
>>Subject: loose wheel bearings because the spindles are thrashed

>> I was considering plating with chrome because it is more durable than
>> nickel, but I heard that suspension parts that were chrome plated were
>> more prone to cracking. Then there is always metal spray.

>Any process that heats the metal to more that it's draw temp will damage
the
>heat treat and any process which leaves lines or edges of material will
cause
>stress crack potential especially if applied with heat. Spindles are very
>hard, alloy steel and draw temps range between 400 - 800 degrees depending
on
>the alloy (this isn't high speed which is drawn at 1000 or so).

>The spray applications require the surface of the steel to reach a plastic
>state which is about 1300 degrees or so. Chrome plating embrittles the
surface >for a few microns but allows stress cracks to form in the
embrittled area which
>then propagate into the non brittle areas and can lead to catastrophic
failure.
SNIP

There are M/Spray processes that do not require the inter-pass temperature
to be higher then 6-700°F. BTDT in a past life. But M/Spray is not a good
choice for an application that will see impact loading, at least not MY
first choice.

>You could try JB weld on the spindle and file it down to fit the race
though
>but I think that would be pretty tough with only 0.010" to fill in.

>Just threw all my rambling thoughts on the screen, hope something here
helps
>:-)
>- -- Gary --


If you can not find a new, or at least better condition spindle which is the
only real fix. You need to have the spindle Chromed but not "Chrome
Plated". Check the yellow pages and find a shop that specializes in
Industrial Hard Chrome Plating. Take them the spindle and a set of new
bearings. They will grind the OD of the spindle to remove any sharp edged
damage and then Chrome it oversize. Then the spindle must be "baked" at
400° (I think) for some period of time to release the hydrogen that is the
cause of hydrogen enbrittlement, or the cause of the chrome plate cracking.
After that they will grind the OD back to the proper fit for the bearings.
This is what we do when we repair damaged shafting that can-not be simply
welded up and turned back, or when the repair must be precise and permanent.
My guess is that this will cost just about the same as a new spindle and not
be as strong...
Sorry!(

Skip all of the plastic fixes as you will be disappointed with the results. I have "epoxied a bearing" to get a truck out of the woods. But it is not a permanent fix as it will compress and work its way out.

FWIW: To do this you clean the shaft spotless and coat the bearing with a film of grease. Mix up the epoxy a tad on the "hot" side and slather the damaged section, then assemble the whole thing, Let it sit and then disassemble, but not that bearing if possible. Pack it full of whatever grease is available and reassemble. Drive it home and then throw all of those parts away!

Chris
79 Bronco


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 22:48:30 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Windshield Weatherstripping

I'm assuming you are talking about the Windshield w/strip, aren't you?
If you are, in my Haynes service manual, it has a detailed paragraph or 2
on how to do it for the 1st timer.
If you have access to a fax machine, I can fax the pages to you as Santa
hasn't brought me the scanner yet.
Let me know.
Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
1970 F100 (ret)


- ----------
> From: anthony l.
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Windshield Weatherstripping
> Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 1:47 AM
>
> I have been a member of this list for several months now, but this is
> my first post. I own a '68 F100 360/C6, short-styleside bed. I have
> owned this truck for about two years and have been dreaming of all the
> things I could do to it. My problem now is the weatherstripping. The
> truck is in great shape, but here in New Orleans rain is a common
> occurence. It now rains in my truck. Not just a LEAK! It RAINS! I
> just got weatherstripping from one of the catalogs, but I am not sure
> how to install it. It seems too simple to me and I was wondering if
> anyone has any tips. I have done some bodywork before and a lot of
> mechanical work, but I'm not sure what to expect. Any help would be
> greatly appreciated. Do I need sealant ? Or any other special things?
>
> anthony
>
> '68 F100 Custom Cab 360/ C6 , MS, MB-drums all around & No AC. Its
> not just a drive its an adventure.
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 22:58:27 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE mounts

> From: am14 chrysler.com
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE mounts
> Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 9:50 AM
>
> Ballinger writes:
>
> Thanks for the update.
> Azie
> Aedmore, Al.

Hey Azie - Did you move ?
Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
1970 F100 (ret)

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 23:16:29 EDT
From: GMPACHECO aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hump heighth

you know that explains my carpet not fitting, I order the carpet for a floor
mount, when I actually had a 3 on the tree, because I was in the process of
cutting the floor and putting my toploader in.... damn, it figures.


Mike in Seattle
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 20:45:45 -0700
From: "The Zahns"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Windshield Weatherstripping

Hi anthony,
When I had the windshield replaced in my 71 F350 it seemed simple to me.
I guess that you will have to cut away the old rubber if you plan on reusing
the old windshield. Clean up any old sealer that may have been used before.
You don't have to get it all but remove any big lumps. Get a piece of rope
aprox. 1/4" diam. that will fit all the way around and lube it up with some
kind of silicone spray (soak it) and then put the new rubber on the
windshield. Spray the rubber with more spray and insert the rope in the
groove. Place the windshield in place and get inside. the cab. As someone
outside is pushing the windshield in pull the rope which will pull the lip
of the rubber in place. Once the rope is out then move the rubber towards
the metal with your hands so that is seats into the metal channel. Go
around the windshield several time both inside and outside. BE SURE TO WEAR
GLOVES WHILE DOING THIS.
Good Luck,
FredZ

- ------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 00:47:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ford68F100 webtv.net (anthony l.)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Windshield Weather-stripping

I have been a member of this list for several months now, but this is
my first post. I own a '68 F100 360/C6, short-styleside bed. I have
owned this truck for about two years and have been dreaming of all the
things I could do to it. My problem now is the weatherstripping. The
truck is in great shape, but here in New Orleans rain is a common
occurence. It now rains in my truck. Not just a LEAK! It RAINS! I
just got weatherstripping from one of the catalogs, but I am not sure
how to install it. It seems too simple to me and I was wondering if
anyone has any tips. I have done some bodywork before and a lot of
mechanical work, but I'm not sure what to expect. Any help would be
greatly appreciated. Do I need sealant ? Or any other special things?

anthony

'68 F100 Custom Cab 360/ C6 , MS, MB-drums all around & No AC. Its
not just a drive its an adventu re.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:06:33 -0700
From: Carey & Norm
Subject: FTE 61-79 - more radiator

Thanks to everyone who responded... going to a bigger engine like this
460 I figured I'd need more cooling. I got plenty to look into while
the actual transplant is happening. The electric fan setup is kinda
interesting... saw it on Steve's page. Am I correct in assuming that
they'd also work on the outside of the radiator(only turned around),
like in addition to the stock fan blade? I thought I'd try something
along those lines for now, as traffic is my biggest cooling enemy (need
more air flow) and probably go into a bigger radiator later on when I'm
ready to haul a camper through the mountains (need more radiator
capacity). My current 3-row is being rodded out while removed during
the transplant. As for a shrowd, I guess I'll have to check fit with
the position of the new engine's fan, is this correct? Then, back to
the boneyard... Is anyone else out there running some kind of shroud on
a '65, and can give me a source?

Thanks again, everyone,

Norm
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:05:39 +0000
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Synthetic oils

Bato125 aol.com wrote:

> Hey where do you send your mail so that everyone that is on the ford mailing
> list can recieve it?Thanks
>

Your welcome.

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 20:59:49 -0700
From: "The Zahns"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Autro tranny w/ column shift?

Hi Nils,
When I put a C6 in my F350 years ago I decide I wanted a column shift
also. You will have to replace the column. You can't just hook up the auto
transmission to your old shift linkage unless you want to play the guessing
game of "what gear am I in now" most of the time. This is especially
frustrating when backing out of a driveway into traffic and want to get
going ASAP.
You may also want to think about if you want power steering some day also
because that column is a different length than the no power steering one.
Of course you will have to replace the steering box and get a pump. $$$$
Good Luck,
FredZ

- --------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 11:17:56 -0600
From: "Nils Gore"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Autro tranny w/ column shift?

I'm getting an 80-something 302 re-built for my 64. I have to decide what
transmission to put in. I've assumed until now that it would be easier to
re-install the 3peed manual in it.

But now I'm starting to re-think that, and wonder if an auto wouldn't
better, given the way I want to use it (daily driver, commuting; no racing,
no towing.) Don't know which tranny yet. I suppose a C4 or C6.

Can anyone tell me if it's feasible to convert the stick on the column to
auto? I'd like to avoid the floor shifter, if possible. Would choice of
transmission matter in this regard?

Thanks,


Nils Gore
West Point, Mississippi.

....

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