61-79-list-digest Tuesday, August 25 1998 Volume 02 : Number 421



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Front hubs
Re: FTE 61-79 - Suggestions needed for Radius rods
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Vacuum advance
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Synthetic Oils
Re: FTE 61-79 - Carpeting...
Re: FTE 61-79 - loose wheel bearings because the spindles are thrashed
FTE 61-79 - '64 F100 FS Sacramento area
FTE 61-79 - FE mounts
RE: FTE 61-79 - Deeep Water
Re: FTE 61-79 - auto tranny's
FTE 61-79 - Heating up in traffic
FTE 61-79 - Downshift
FTE 61-79 - carpet
FTE 61-79 - more radiator
Re: FTE 61-79 - more radiator
FTE 61-79 - 240-300 straight six swap
FTE 61-79 - Free '69 F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - more radiator
[none]
FTE 61-79 - 71 Resto update/slow but happenin'
FTE 61-79 - motor woes
Re: FTE 61-79 - more radiator
Re: FTE 61-79 - 240-300 straight six swap
FTE 61-79 - Thermostat (was more radiator)
Re: FTE 61-79 - more radiator

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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 06:24:56 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Front hubs

You should definitely repack the front hubs. As soon as possible
really.

> I was on a fishing trip this past weekend. We encountered a bridge out.
> The options were a 100 mile detour or a chest- deep water crossing.
> (dont you hate decisions like that?...) Took off the fan belt and
> through we went. Same thing on the return trip :-) . Today i greased
> the front end and all the U-Joints and checked the transmission,
> transfer cases and axles for water (there wasn't any). Can anyone think
> of anything else i should be looking at?? what abouyt the front hubs?.
> My truck is a '70 f-250 4x4 with dana 40 and 60 axles and Warn type hubs
> (the ford origionals) and a 360, 4 speed.

- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
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Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 07:54:08 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Suggestions needed for Radius rods

From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Suggestions needed for Radius rods
Date sent: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:05:42 -0500

> I figure it will be a major hassle to get these centered in a 4-jaw to
> try and turn them down to sleeve them back up. I am debating the virtues
> of epoxy putty, etc. All suggestions, retelling of the wisdom of

Turning them down is not a good idea anyway due to the fact that the sleeve
does not in any way add to the strength of the lug. If you are concerned
about filling up the bushing try thin wall vac line. You can heat this up with a
blow dryer and force it on for a good fit and then slide the bushing on. I
have some spares I'm going to attempt to drill and insert threaded studs in to
see if this will work. If there is enough steel in the radius arm for a good hole
it should be as strong as the original and now will last for ever :-)

In the ones I've worked with there is enough compression in the bushings to
keep every thing tight enough. Any time you install new bushings they need
to be lubed with a water proof lubricant such as anti-seize or marine grease.
This protects the rubber and allows it to seat properly initially for a better fit.

I even greas C busings.


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 08:09:59 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Vacuum advance

Date sent: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 23:17:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: bill
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Vacuum advance

> To check the vacum advance in your distributor, pop the dist. cap,
> and pull the vacum advance hose from the carb. Put the hose into
> your mouth

Mighty Mites are pretty cheap and work for vacuum and brake bleeding as
well. If you tune your own vehicle you need this tool. I paid big bucks for
the --------- (can't think of the name but its a famous airplane crash or
something) kit from Arizona and it doesn't even come with a gauge for
vacuum, get the mighty mite, it's a much better kit. Sears has a nice one for
$39 with gauge and other accesories too. (just remembered, "Pheonix
Systems", don't waste your money)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 08:22:16 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Synthetic Oils

Date sent: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:00:12 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Synthetic Oils

> coming back from without major damage) could occour. Most folks barely
> get the oil warm enough to drive off the moisture and fuel contamination
> from the choke operation. That use would still incur normal extreme use
> intervals.

This it where the filtering comes in. Unfortunately I don't know of any
automotive filtering system capable of pulling out chemical contaminants. If
you do drive long distances I can see some benifit because the oil will
certainly stay cleaner and last longer but I totally agree that short trips around
town will require 3k intervals and would then be a waste but in a truck,
especially one that sees some energetic use the Mobil1 may pay for itself
eventually. A polymer based oil may be good too but at some point the oil
changes will exceed the cost of a good rebuild at $9/qt because as you say
there are no filters capable of maintaining the oil for 25k miles as Amsoil
claims they can. They only remove particulates, not the acids and other
chemicals which are what actually damage the beaings etc..

I thought it worth trying but in retrospect, after boucing things off this list
I've concluded that the most I'm interested it trying is Mobil1 and that only as
a precaution against my lazy maintenance. I still intend to change oil at 3-5k
intervals and my engine does get plenty warmed up so this should be a valid
interval for my type of driving. Someting many of us including myself
neglect though is the air cleaner which DIRECTLY affects the life of the
rings since the air and dirt is directly injected into the cylinders and the oily
film in there will hold it long enough to become a grinding compound.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 08:21:21 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Carpeting...

At 08:16 PM 8/24/98 -0400, you wrote:
>What kind of carpeting has everyone used? I ordered a set for my 68 F-100
>2WD From Auto Custom Carpets, Inc., and it was 3 inches to narrow when I
>went to put it in. Is the stuff from JC Whitney any better?
>
I got my rubber mat from JC Whitney, was a little skeptical about it, but
once I started with it, I love it! Can't remember the brand off the top of
my head, I can look tonight when I get home and tell ya tomorrow if you
want. It was a molded rubber mat with a pad and everything, fit really
nice, 'specially after I cranked the heat up ( Jan. is not the time to
install rubber anything in an unheated garage).


Just my 2cents

Bill

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
for truck make it ..../Trucks/truck.html
for car make it ..../Cars/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 09:28:25 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - loose wheel bearings because the spindles are thrashed

Date sent: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 18:56:08 -0700
From: Denise McCullough Strong
Subject: FTE 61-79 - loose wheel bearings because the spindles are thrashed

> I was considering plating with chrome because it is more durable than
> nickel, but I heard that suspension parts that were chrome plated were
> more prone to cracking. Then there is always metal spray.

Any process that heats the metal to more that it's draw temp will damage the
heat treat and any process which leaves lines or edges of material will cause
stress crack potential especially if applied with heat. Spindles are very hard,
alloy steel and draw temps range between 400 - 800 degrees depending on
the alloy (this isn't high speed which is drawn at 1000 or so).

The spray applications require the surface of the steel to reach a plastic state
which is about 1300 degrees or so. Chrome plating embrittles the surface for
a few microns but allows stress cracks to form in the embrittled area which
then propagate into the non brittle areas and can lead to catastrophic failure.

Since spindles are generally quite well designed for strength maybe none of
this really matters but it certainly bears consideration. In my experience as
long as the inner race is fairly well supported on the spindle you won't have
any trouble with it. If there is some concern that the inner race might spin
you can try red loctite or some other semi permanent epoxy or sealer which
is impervious to grease and heat to help hold the inner race in place on the
spindle. (maybe brown aircraft sealer would work if you let it tack up reall
well first) Of course that's going to be tricky since the bearing will have
grease all over it and the surfaces need to be squeaky clean for the loctite or
epoxy to get a bite. Remember you are only trying to fill in the gaps and
keep the race from spinning not retain it on the spindle. You still need to be
able to pull it off next time you remove the hub so JB weld etc. would not be
a good idea for this.

You could try JB weld on the spindle and file it down to fit the race though
but I think that would be pretty tough with only 0.010" to fill in.

Just threw all my rambling thoughts on the screen, hope something here helps
:-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 06:39:31 -0700
From: Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '64 F100 FS Sacramento area

Whilst driving home yesterday I spotted this truck
for sale along the side of the road:

'64 F100, short bed, styleside, not a custom cab
Original paint (green), worn, but not bad at all, a few scrapes
and bruises, front grill area immaculate, rear Barden bumper.
Interior dash perfect, uncut, never had a radio, original seats
worn through to foam, dirty but original headlining (probably smoker)
A crunch on left forward bed, otherwise minor body damage.
Surface rust only, none through. Steering wheel worn places.
Left arm window sill worn through paint, then rusty as if original
driver drove for 30 years, then truck parked for a few years.


Per the notice posted on it:
223ci 6 cyl, 3 on the tree
10K on rebuild, runs great, very dependable.
$900 OBO, 652-9587, don't know if area code is 530 or 916

I can take a closer look if needed, drop a pline with specifics.

Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab
(I'm keeping an eye out for a '64 longbed 292 auto for a spare truck!)
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 09:50:57 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE mounts

Ballinger writes: >>The only exception is the 4X4's. My '65 FE uses a
front mount and bellhousing mounts like a Y-Block.

Thanks for the update. I never fooled with the very early 4X4's so I
assumed they mounted the same as the 2X, and we all know where assume puts
me. I owned a 66 2X, LWB, 352, 3 on tree. Never did anything to it in
140000 miles except normal maintenance. A very good truck, but a very ugly
green. Sold it outright for within a few $ of what I gave for it new.

Azie
Aedmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 08:59:36 -0500
From: "Woosley, Chris"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Deeep Water

I would consider checking both axles for water. Either wheel seal or the
pinion seal could let a little moisture in and ruin your day sometime in
the future.

Chris Woosley
M-D/TOTCO INSTRUMENTATION
manufacturing engineer
cwoosley cp.varco.com
(512) 340-5594 fax (512) 340-5225


- -----Original Message-----
From: Don Jones [mailto:twistedhand hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, August 24, 1998 8:53 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Deeep Water


hi!!..
I was on a fishing trip this past weekend. We encountered a bridge out.

The options were a 100 mile detour or a chest- deep water crossing.
(dont you hate decisions like that?...) Took off the fan belt and
through we went. Same thing on the return trip :-) . Today i greased
the front end and all the U-Joints and checked the transmission,
transfer cases and axles for water (there wasn't any). Can anyone think
of anything else i should be looking at?? what abouyt the front hubs?.
My truck is a '70 f-250 4x4 with dana 40 and 60 axles and Warn type hubs

(the ford origionals) and a 360, 4 speed.

thanks!!

Don Jones, Northern Ont., Canada.
'85 f-150 SC *still* ~~FOR SALE~~
'70 f-250 4x4 FORDZILLA!!!

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 10:01:44 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - auto tranny's

From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - auto tranny's
Date sent: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:27:59 -0500

> condition is slow speed corners around town. If I take a corner at 10-15
> mph the truck will try to come off the corner in 2nd, enough throttle will
> force a downshift but it takes more throttle than I want. With normal in
> town driving the upshifts come very quick.

Put a big cam in it to lower the vacuum and.............just kidding :-) Lets see
if I remember correctly......I believe the governor sets the minimum wheel
speed it can up shift and the modulator then holds it in gear untill the vacuum
gets high enough to pull the valve back to allow the up shift so if you want
higher speed up shifts then screw the adjuster in or lengthen the push pin in
the modulator.

The kick down lever "mitigates" the dowshift circuit by adding or simulating
lower vac or wheel speed, not sure but it kind of takes back the up shift or
reverses the parameters for an up shift so it drops back a gear. Sort of a
modulator over ride kind of thing. The governor has someting to do with
this since it's possible to downshift all the way to first if you are going slow
enough and skip second alltogether. (big ouch!)

Since you usually don't want a downshift unless you have it wide open you
can adjust the kick down to be fully engaged at WOT or even less than fully
engaged as nesessary.

Some shift kits will change the behavior of the modulator inputs too by
changing the spring rates of certain valves so a kit may help. I'd try adjusting
the set screw inside the vac input to the modulator first. Not sure which way
but I presume right turn will raise the shift point. It won't take too many
adjustments to see which way you have to go. My 460 makes so much
torque at the bottom that the vacuum comes up very quickly at moderate
throttle settings and I can be in third gear at 15 mph or hold it in low up to 35
or 40 (haven't looked lately) but that requires WOT. Anything less than
WOT will allow a shift pretty early even with 2.75 gears on mine but it's
sufficient for my needs.

The reason you might want to experiment with longer push pins is that you
keep the spring rate of the modulator the same but still move the valve
position so more movement of the modulator is required to make the shift.
This changes the high load response without affecting the low load response
if that's important. If you tightnen the modulator spring too much it may not
shift with light loads when you want in other words. I haven't really played
with it that much so can't be any more specific, sorry.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 10:07:27 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Heating up in traffic

Norm writes: >>I can't sit in heavy traffic for too long or it'll heat
up drastically. If I could 'build up' my radiator as described in the
past posts, think it'll be okay for now with the new 460?

I know you were directing this to someone else, but I just had to but in.
Are you running a shroud??
Doesn't sound like it. I think if you aren't, then look around the yards
for a later model truck equipped with the same engine as yours, and get the
shroud. It is amazing how much they help.
If you are running a shroud, then the 7 blade fan can probably be installed
on the current 390, and it just might be time to have the 8 year old
radiator "rodded".
If your cooling ability is marginal in traffic, or on long hard pulls, then
its time to look at more airflow and larger coolant capacity, if you are
thinking of camper.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 10:13:52 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Downshift

Cannondale writes: >>It kinda sucks when I tow a heavy trailer up a hill
and it dosent downshift.

Your shift selector most likely has "P R N D 2 1 (or L). Manually put the
selector in 2 and it will accomplish the same. I'm not familiar with the
E'brock setup, so I can't comment on how to make it work, but if you move
that selector rod back toward the rear far enough, then the tranny should
downshift. You may have to change the radius of some of the bends in the
rod to essentially make the rod longer..

Good luck

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 09:17:13 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - carpet

I used carpet from JC Witless. It was premolded and oversize to fit over
the existing rubber mat. It was actually a little bit too over sized and I
wished that it had fit a little tighter. The quality is OK. I am used to
luxury car carpet and it is no where close to that. I've had it in about a
year and so far it is wearing well. I think I got the cut pile type.


- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left door, new left front fender
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (The software box said Windows95 or better, so I
bought a Mac.)
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 09:40:46 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - more radiator

Norm. you most definitely need a bigger radiator with a bigger engine. The
rest of my radiator set up is as follows. I have the stock shroud. I
replaced the five blade fan/clutch combo with a six blade stainless steel
flex fan and spacer. The spacer is 1 3/4 inches long and I wish it was
about 2 1/4 or 2 1/2. If I had it to do over I would go to a bone yard and
get the fan and spacer off of a mid 70s LTD or Marquis with the 351M/400. I
may do that yet. Another drawback to the fan is that it is only rated for
use at or under 4500 rpm. OK for me, but Gary wouldn't like it (grin). I
also run a 160 degree thermostat, which has been extensively discussed as
improper, but I like it (double grin).

I have driven my new radiator 4 miles so far. I can tell that it runs mucho
cooler than the old one. Today it will get a better workout in the heat of
the day (supposed to be near 100 with 90+ humidity).

I forgot to way the dang thing before I installed it. Sorry.

- -John

jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left door, new left front fender
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI E4OD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (The software box said Windows95 or better, so I
bought a Mac.)
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 09:58:13 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - more radiator

>Norm. you most definitely need a bigger radiator with a bigger engine. The
>rest of my radiator set up is as follows. I have the stock shroud. I
>replaced the five blade fan/clutch combo with a six blade stainless steel
>flex fan and spacer. The spacer is 1 3/4 inches long and I wish it was
>about 2 1/4 or 2 1/2. If I had it to do over I would go to a bone yard and
>get the fan and spacer off of a mid 70s LTD or Marquis with the 351M/400. I
>may do that yet. Another drawback to the fan is that it is only rated for
>use at or under 4500 rpm. OK for me, but Gary wouldn't like it (grin). I
>also run a 160 degree thermostat, which has been extensively discussed as
>improper, but I like it (double grin).
>
>I have driven my new radiator 4 miles so far. I can tell that it runs mucho
>cooler than the old one. Today it will get a better workout in the heat of
>the day (supposed to be near 100 with 90+ humidity).
>
Well, this discussion is interesting as we are having problems with the
cooling on Dad's 69 Cougar. It likes to puke out a little antifreeze
everytime you shut it off. Its got a freshly rebuilt 351W ...10.5:1
pistons I think, though Dad did the rebuild and can tell you for sure...
Anyway its done the spitting thing as long as we've had it (5 years already
... wow)

Actually the whole point of writing this was to ask, with the 90+ humidity
and high temps you wouldn't by chance be hiding in the mid west here would
you ? Fortunately I don't get stuck in traffic all that often (not too
many places outside of the larger cities (Des Moines, Cedar Rapids etc)
that you can here...) so really I'm just trying to keep it cool for the
stoplights and the really fun part is keeping it cool sitting at a light
after a nice 65mph stint on the highway.


Just my 2cents

Bill

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
for truck make it ..../Trucks/truck.html
for car make it ..../Cars/mustang.html
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 09:11:37 -0600
From: "Richard Currit"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 240-300 straight six swap

Hi one and all. I just joined this list and it looks like I found the =
right place. I own a '72 F-100 with a 240 straight six. I have had it =
for about 10 years now, it has 221,000 miles on it and is beginning to use =
a little oil. I was wondering what was involved with swapping a 300 =
straight six into this truck. Is it a straight swap? I know they are the =
same block, but are the mounts the same? Are there certain years of motor =
to look for? Basically what do I need to do to do this? =20
By the way, I live in Wyoming and basically live out of this truck all =
summer for my work. It has a '64 Alaskan Camper on it (a lot of weight, =
but the straight six makes good torque), is 2wd, originally 3 on the tree, =
now 4 on the floor (needed the granny gear). Any info on the engine swap =
would be greatly appreciated.

High Plains Richard
'72 F-100
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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 08:22:22 -0700
From: "Chris Henderson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Free '69 F100

I am trying to get rid (too many vehicles already) of a 1969 F100 short-bed
without engine (it had a 302 until recently). It is located in Hayward, CA
and anyone who wants to haul it away can have it. It is complete, minus
engine of course, but well worn. It has a three speed trans that someone
converted to floor shift and a 3.25 9" rear end. Body is gray primer and it
has 4 spoker wheels. Has good title but registration expired last month.
If anyone is interested please email.

- -Chris Henderson

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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:19:38 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - more radiator

Date sent: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 09:40:46 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - more radiator

> Norm. you most definitely need a bigger radiator with a bigger engine. The

I got a 3 tube out of an 88 van with HO 351 for my 460 and it worked fine in
the van. It now resides in the pickup with the same engine and is still
working well. I have the 545 modine "type" in the bronco and believe this
may be the ultimate radiator for any truck application but the 3 row worked
with the 460 in Michigan weather.

> for use at or under 4500 rpm. OK for me, but Gary wouldn't like it (grin).

Flex fans flex and the faster you rev them the more they flex. At some point
the blades will develope work stress fractures and will come apart so there is
a limit.......:-)

> I also run a 160 degree thermostat, which has been extensively discussed

AFAIK there is no difference between the flow of a 160 or 195 thermostat
but they open at the specified temps so as the engine heats up under heavy
use and hot temps the thermostate may be all the way open. I don't know
what the range is to get a 195 all the way open so can't really comment on
this except to say that running an engine up to 220 or so gives the best
economy and wear life. Race engines run a tad warmer even than this for
this very reason but you do have to have a pressureized system with
recovery tank to do this. So if the engine needs more coolant and the
thermostat is already all the way open there is nothing left for a safety margin.
The 160 may give you some margin, not sure but in Michigan I run the 195
with good results.

Some day I will put head temp gauges on along with fuel pressur and brake
pressure and oil temp but that's down the road. It will be fun to see what's
really happening in there :-)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's "The Ex-Black Hole"
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's "The Black Hole"
78 LIncoln Continental, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! "The Future.." :-)
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:53:20 -0400
From: "Mr. Paul R. Boudreault"
Subject: [none]

In reference to Oil types and changes by ballingr ldd.net

I have considerable experience with all sorts of High Performance Aircraft
Engines of both piston and turbine variety, and I can tell you that it is
more important to change your oil frequently than to use the higher priced
synthetic stuff. My experience with F 18 Hornets and working with the
S.O.A.P., (Sample oil Annalists Program) has shown me that where you are
talking about thousands of degrees of heat, you need this kind of
protection. Otherwise you are better off to just change your oil on a
regular basis, installing a good filter, and good oil. (I will not mention
any brands as everyone has their own favorite, and they are all pretty good,
as we would test them from time to time see just how they stand up.) If
your going to "Indy" you might want to invest, otherwise save you money
because by the time you do change your oil you will not have save any damage
that would have occurred normally.

Also don't forget, Oil Turns Acidic After A Short While In Your Crank Case!!
This is because of the byproduct of combustion in the normal reciprocating
engine. Nothing you can do will prevent this, except changing the oil on a
regular basis. If you plan to store your ride, you should change all the
fluids just before you do, or you might be chewing though some expensive
seals and develop leaks.

I use a high grade oil (10 W 40 summer, 10 W 30 winter) in my 79 Ford
Bronco, changing both oil and filter every two months or 3000 Km (about 1800
miles) or so. No problems so far. I'm running a balanced & Blueprinted
351M custom rebuilt with HO parts. About 300 Net horsepower.

Mr. P R Boudreault
Retired RCAF/CAF
pboudreault sympatico.ca

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 10:59:47 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 71 Resto update/slow but happenin'

Well ladies and gents, I got my inner fenders and rad support back from my
bodyman
who sandblasted and then painted with Eastwood underhood black. They look
like brand new!! The frame is ready and brake lines are still in the
process of being made. I did get new brake hoses (front and rear) from
Skyjacker suspension products. They had to custom make the front hose
because it attaches to the dana44 in a bizare manner. I had to use the old
mounting bracket for the new hose.........I am amazed nobody (atleast that I
could find) makes OEM style hoses for 71 4x4 F-100's with the Dana44.
Since I added the lift, I had to go with a longer hose to compensate. Names
of suppliers would be helpful for future reference if anyone knows of a
company. The new hoses are made of braided stainless and look absolutely
awesome.

I have a small amount of patching to do on the passengers side floor pan and
we are ready to go to the body man for massaging. All other body parts are
in primer and waitng PPG single stage enamel paint..........Got this
heartbreaking news this weekend, My body man doesn't feel he is going to be
able to do as quality of a job as I would like so I am looking for a painter.

Haven't talked to the "best" local paint guy YET. He's busy and so am I but
he is noted for slick paint jobs and I have seen his work. Can't imagine
his price being too high
if all body work and prep is complete.

Valve Covers have been stripped and repainted Ford blue as have the air
cleaner and chracoal canister. Engine is being disassembled and heads
should be sent off soon.

Engine should be built during x-mas holiday.

The trans is ready and has fresh Ford red paint on it. I decided not to
paint the u-joints green like they came from the factory, too ugly. Black
is the color of choice.

Chugging along, Someday we'll be seaworthy again.


______________________
Ken?
As far as the carpet being 3 inches too short, do you have an 8 inch high
trans hump
(usually manuals) or a 5 inch high hump (usually autos)?? It does make
difference
in the product you order.

Hope it helps
Stu
Nuke GM!
visit my homepage at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/stu

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 12:07:41 -0400
From: Mike Elmer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - motor woes

I smoked the 360(lost comp.in 3and5,had good O/P up to that point) in my
1969 f250 Camper Speical a couple days ago on my way to work.My question
is:do I rebuild and make up-grades ie:cam,4bbl manifold and carb or
search fo a 390.Any opinion would be a big help.The 69 is my daily
driver.Only has 75,680 miles
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 13:46:54 -0400
From: Jay Grover
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - more radiator

The best bang for the buck cooling-wise that I've gotten was with a
"wide mouth" thermostat made for drag racing. They are quite expensive
as thermostats go (8 or 9 bucks), but they are much better quality and
much less restrictive than the standard 3 buck thermo that you buy at
K-Mart (or elsewhere). A company called Brassworks used to make them,
but I believe they were bought out by Mr. Gasket. Anyways, you can find
them at Jegs, Summit, or any other performance oriented auto parts
place. The downside was that I've only found a few temperatures, 160,
180 and 195. There may be more now, though.

As far as fans go, the best aftermarket ones, from my direct experience
have been the black, plastic flex fans. They can spin faster, pull more
air, flatten out better at speed (create less drag), and I've yet to
explode one. They aren't quite as "pretty" as those aluminum ones, but
they sure beat the pants off of them in every other respect. I know for
certain that Jegs sells these as well. They just put a much smaller ad
in the catalog than they do for the more expensive, junky metal ones.
For over a week, I couldn't figure out why my 351W was "loping" as it
idled (sounded like I put a huge cam in it). Turned out, my beautiful
aluminum flex fan had blown one of its blades apart, and the whole
engine was vibrating because of the imbalance.

Jay

William S Hart wrote:
>
> >Norm. you most definitely need a bigger radiator with a bigger engine. The
> >rest of my radiator set up is as follows. I have the stock shroud. I
> >replaced the five blade fan/clutch combo with a six blade stainless steel
> >flex fan and spacer. The spacer is 1 3/4 inches long and I wish it was
> >about 2 1/4 or 2 1/2. If I had it to do over I would go to a bone yard and
> >get the fan and spacer off of a mid 70s LTD or Marquis with the 351M/400. I
> >may do that yet. Another drawback to the fan is that it is only rated for
> >use at or under 4500 rpm. OK for me, but Gary wouldn't like it (grin). I
> >also run a 160 degree thermostat, which has been extensively discussed as
> >improper, but I like it (double grin).
> >
> >I have driven my new radiator 4 miles so far. I can tell that it runs mucho
> >cooler than the old one. Today it will get a better workout in the heat of
> >the day (supposed to be near 100 with 90+ humidity).
> >
> Well, this discussion is interesting as we are having problems with the
> cooling on Dad's 69 Cougar. It likes to puke out a little antifreeze
> everytime you shut it off. Its got a freshly rebuilt 351W ...10.5:1
> pistons I think, though Dad did the rebuild and can tell you for sure...
> Anyway its done the spitting thing as long as we've had it (5 years already
> ... wow)
>
> Actually the whole point of writing this was to ask, with the 90+ humidity
> and high temps you wouldn't by chance be hiding in the mid west here would
> you ? Fortunately I don't get stuck in traffic all that often (not too
> many places outside of the larger cities (Des Moines, Cedar Rapids etc)
> that you can here...) so really I'm just trying to keep it cool for the
> stoplights and the really fun part is keeping it cool sitting at a light
> after a nice 65mph stint on the highway.
>
> Just my 2cents
>
> Bill
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
> for truck make it ..../Trucks/truck.html
> for car make it ..../Cars/mustang.html
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- --
"but, this one goes to eleven..."
Jay Grover
jgrover mbvlab.wpafb.af.mil
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glasscity.net/users/jcg
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:27:11 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240-300 straight six swap

>Hi one and all. I just joined this list and it looks like I found the
right place. I own a '72 F-100 with a 240 straight six. I have had it
for about 10 years now, it has 221,000 miles on it and is beginning to use a
little oil. I was wondering what was involved with swapping a 300 straight
six into this truck. Is it a straight swap? I know they are the same
block, but are the mounts the same? Are there certain years of motor to
look for?

The 300 will bolt right in. Same block, same mounts, straight swap.

Basically what do I need to do to do this?

Hand tools, an engine hoist, lots of degreaser to clean stuff, and lots
of Your "beverage of choice". For cold weather engine swaps, I might go
with a Sierra Nevada Porter, a Deschutes Black Butte Porter, or maybe
a Guinness Stout. For hot weather swaps, I prefer a Pyramid Hefeweizen
or Sierra Nevada Wheat beer. If You prefer Lagers, it's pretty hard to
beat a Gordon Biersch Marzen...

Hope that helps... (-:


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:27:09 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Thermostat (was more radiator)

>> I also run a 160 degree thermostat, which has been extensively discussed

>AFAIK there is no difference between the flow of a 160 or 195 thermostat
>but they open at the specified temps so as the engine heats up under heavy
>use and hot temps the thermostate may be all the way open. I don't know
>what the range is to get a 195 all the way open so can't really comment on
>this except to say that running an engine up to 220 or so gives the best
>economy and wear life.

I almost always test a new thermostat before I install it, cuz I've been
screwed by defective ones before... (that's SO frustrating!)

The 195F Stant HD thermostat that's in my truck now had a fairly narrow
operating range. It started to crack open at about 192F, and was fully
open by 198F, so it has a 6 degree operating spread with the 195 rating
in the center of it's operating range.



Steve
....


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