61-79-list-digest Tuesday, August 25 1998 Volume 02 : Number 420



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Synthetic oils
FTE 61-79 - Carpeting...
FTE 61-79 - Re: DISC BRAKE CONVERSION
FTE 61-79 - Re: Synthetic Oils
FTE 61-79 - Suggestions needed for Radius rods
FTE 61-79 - Re:Dim signals
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dim signals
FTE 61-79 - Nil's Auto
FTE 61-79 - One Exception
FTE 61-79 - Deeep Water
FTE 61-79 - loose wheel bearings because the spindles are thrashed
Re: FTE 61-79 - Carpeting...
FTE 61-79 - radiator update
FTE 61-79 - Downshift Linkage
FTE 61-79 - Wooden Stepside?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Synthetic oils
Re: FTE 61-79 - radiator update
FTE 61-79 - RE: Vacuum advance
FTE 61-79 - Re: Synthetic Oils
FTE 61-79 - auto tranny's
Re: FTE 61-79 - radiator update
FTE 61-79 - Windshield Weatherstripping

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 19:27:00 EDT
From: JRethford aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Synthetic oils

In a message dated 8/23/98 10:06:38 PM Central Daylight Time,
JUMPINFORD aol.com writes:

>


This brings up a question I've had for a while. What are those F-500 up used
for? I know an old manual of mine had numbers for a F-1000 but no idea what
it was used for? Friend of mine said the 1000 was limited in number and was
mainly used as a pump jack mover. All the movers I've seen are Internationals
and some other that escapes me at the moment.

Josh
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:16:16 -0400
From: "Ken Schneider"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Carpeting...

What kind of carpeting has everyone used? I ordered a set for my 68 F-100
2WD From Auto Custom Carpets, Inc., and it was 3 inches to narrow when I
went to put it in. Is the stuff from JC Whitney any better?

Ken
68 F-100 2wd 360/C6/3.25

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:25:44 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: DISC BRAKE CONVERSION

Hey Joe -
Did you get my message from the 16th about the steering column ? ? ?
If so , have you done it yet ?
I've got all the parts in the garage to do the conversion on mine, but it
will be a few weeks at least before I can start on the project. Although
I've rehearsed the job 30 times in my head, that 'ol actual experience
ain't there yet.
Let me know if I can help ya.
Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
1970 F100 (ret)


- ----------
> From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 67-72 4wd Brake conversion Question
> Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 6:39 PM
>
> Looking for some members that have converted there 67-72 4x4 to
> discs up front..Email me privately
> Joe
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:00:12 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Synthetic Oils

The biggest problem that I have with synthetic oils is the concept that
you can extend the service intervals to ten times a normal interval. I
just can't stand the the thought of recirculating the unburned
hydrocarbons, unburned fuel (from on choke operation)and moisture
accumulation through my engine. It goes against everything I've learned
about caring for an engine.

I change my oil often. 3000 miles in the Contour, and 800-1000 miles in
the truck. (because of the short trips I run) I keep a healthy PCV
system, I keep dirt out of the carb. I keep a good state of tune. I
think that removing contaminants from the engine before they can make
sludge is very important. The intervals I use seem to do the job before
the "juice" turns felon. I've had a few 200,000+ (on 10W-30 and as they
got older 10W-40) milers and they did have some "accumulation" upon
teardown. After that much work they will, but the internals needed no
more than a normal amount of attention to make them new again. No more
than is to be expected. Bores need boring after that long, bearings
have to be replaced. If I had run synthetic oil I think that I would
have had to do the same machine work and replace the same parts at
rebuild time as I'd do with petroleum. You won't put 200,000 mile
bearings back in a new engine.

The only place where I could see it's value is in extreme use
situations. If you are pulling one of those Bobcat trailer stack rigs
in July through Texas, or running 2 hrs on a circle track flat out then
I could see where thermal breakdown (without catastrophic cooling system
failure, which I still think luck plays more of a role than your oil in
coming back from without major damage) could occour. Most folks barely
get the oil warm enough to drive off the moisture and fuel contamination
from the choke operation. That use would still incur normal extreme use
intervals. It would also be expensive, that rig would have to be a
money maker to justify the expense in my book.

I'm not arguing about the quality of the oil, I am not qualified to do
so. But I know that 30,000 mile oil change intervals can't be in the
best interest of engine longevity. If it cost the same as petroleum, and
I could change it as often as I do, I'd use it if it met the same
quality standards.

- --
Waiting for my new heads
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:05:42 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Suggestions needed for Radius rods

Okay, getting into the disc brake conversion for my '69 2wd. I am using the
complete suspension from a '75 and am going to just swap it out as the
kingpins are good and tight. I figure at the same time I will replace
bushings (polyurethane, thanks for the part numbers Steve J., used em, found
em local, and at even better price).
My question is this: I broke everything down to clean and paint it
before I put it in. When I took the bushing off the end of the radius rods
(the bushings where it attaches to the frame) the diameter of the shaft is
reduce due to rust and movement. My experience with other radius rods is
that this is common. I can't help but assume that the ones in the truck will
be just as bad. Has anyone else done anything creative about this problem?
I figure it will be a major hassle to get these centered in a 4-jaw to
try and turn them down to sleeve them back up. I am debating the virtues of
epoxy putty, etc. All suggestions, retelling of the wisdom of experience,
etc. will be appreciated.

Jim Elliott



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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 21:11:37 -0400
From: Mike and Colleen
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dim signals

Thanks for everyones help, it was the ground. When I put the new
receptacle in, it wasn't grounding against the back plate. I
soldered a ground wire onto the receptacle and attached it to the
same spot hte headlight ground is. I notice that my parking lights
go out when my headlights are on, is this normal?

Thanks again,
Mike


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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 21:41:56 -0400
From: "Ken Schneider"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re:Dim signals

Mine does too on my 68 F100, its sorta neat. I tried replacing the switch
with another I had sitting from a junk truck, and that didn't fix it. I did
see a 69 last year where they were both on at the same time.

Ken
68 F100/360/C6/3.25's

> Thanks for everyones help, it was the ground. When I put the new
> receptacle in, it wasn't grounding against the back plate. I
> soldered a ground wire onto the receptacle and attached it to the
> same spot hte headlight ground is. I notice that my parking lights
> go out when my headlights are on, is this normal?
>
> Thanks again,
> Mike

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:45:13 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Nil's Auto

It's simple, if you or the fellow helping you are mechanically inclined.

In my opinion it would be a hard to beat combination for everyday
driving. Well worth the effort. If you can get a small-block or six
pattern C-6 you'd be ahead IMHO.

> Can anyone tell me if it's feasible to convert the stick on the column to
> auto? I'd like to avoid the floor shifter, if possible. Would choice of
> transmission matter in this regard?

- --
Waiting for my new heads!!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:49:21 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - One Exception

The only exception is the 4X4's. My '65 FE uses a front mount and
bellhousing mounts like a Y-Block.
>
> I've never seen a FE in a small truck or car mounted anywhere except the
> mid engine mounts. Large trucks with FT's I don't remember.
>
> Bell housing mounts and front engine mounts were used on some years of the
> Y block, but I don't remember what years.

- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 18:53:08 PDT
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Deeep Water

hi!!..
I was on a fishing trip this past weekend. We encountered a bridge out.
The options were a 100 mile detour or a chest- deep water crossing.
(dont you hate decisions like that?...) Took off the fan belt and
through we went. Same thing on the return trip :-) . Today i greased
the front end and all the U-Joints and checked the transmission,
transfer cases and axles for water (there wasn't any). Can anyone think
of anything else i should be looking at?? what abouyt the front hubs?.
My truck is a '70 f-250 4x4 with dana 40 and 60 axles and Warn type hubs
(the ford origionals) and a 360, 4 speed.

thanks!!

Don Jones, Northern Ont., Canada.
'85 f-150 SC *still* ~~FOR SALE~~
'70 f-250 4x4 FORDZILLA!!!

______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 18:56:08 -0700
From: Denise McCullough Strong
Subject: FTE 61-79 - loose wheel bearings because the spindles are thrashed

Has anyone had experience repairing front wheel spindles by way of
plating chrome, nickel or metal spray?

The spindles on my '61 F-100 are about .010 smaller maximum undersize
condition, than at 90 degrees (sideways) where there is no apparent
wear. I was considering plating with chrome because it is more durable
than nickel, but I heard that suspension parts that were chrome plated
were more prone to cracking. Then there is always metal spray. I
forgot to mention that the spindles I've seen in the wrecking yard
aren't in too good of shape either!
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 21:57:13 EDT
From: Toydually aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Carpeting...

Hi Ken,

Probably Auto Custom Carpet makes it for JC Whitney, so you've probably got
one of the best in the industry after Distinctive Industries. Unfortunately,
Distinctive Industries doesn't make carpet for Ford Trucks yet. I would e-
mail or call A.C.C. to find out what the problem is as probably they just
trimmed it incorrectly. Hope this helps.

Brian
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 19:45:49 -0700
From: Carey & Norm
Subject: FTE 61-79 - radiator update

John... Do you have a shroud on your new 4-row? Also, is it an
aftermarket or original overflow bottle? My '65 is currently undergoing
a '76 460 transplant, and i was wondering about cooling. I have a lot
of notes from the numerous radiator postings a few weeks back, and
because of cost, decided to at least try to utilize the 3-row I have in
the truck now (not the original; replaced with new one from Ford about 8
years ago). My plan was to try to find some kind of shroud for it, some
kind of overflow bottle, and the new 460 has a 7-blade fan as opposed to
the 4-blade from the old engine.
However, with your cost figures on your heavy-duty 4-row, I may
reconsider. The radiator place my mechanic uses came back with a $450.
price for a 4-row, so we decided to keep the old one at least for now.
I probably won't be doing any heavy hauling or pulling for now, but
eventually I'd like to get an overhead camper. Thing is, I've had a 390
and the original 352 in this truck, two radiators, and (same problem as
alot of folks) I can't sit in heavy traffic for too long or it'll heat
up drastically. If I could 'build up' my radiator as described in the
past posts, think it'll be okay for now with the new 460? Sorry, folks,
don't mean to start another debate or re-hash a lot of stuff, just
trying to figure out if I might need a bigger radiator with a bigger
engine.

Anyone jump in with any input...
Thanks,
Norm
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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 22:39:43 -0500
From: Dayton Boyd
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Downshift Linkage

I just got a downshift linkage for my '78 f250 today, it didnt have one
when I got it, and I cant figure out how to adjust it to downshift. Im
running a edlebrock with the downshift adapter on it, so I know its a
little diffrent than a stock carb. I know that the transmission is suppost
to downshift into 2nd gear, but it dosent at all, and the shaft does move,
moves the arm on the transmission almost an inch. Took a look at a friends
truck ('78 f150), but couldnt figure out anything. It kinda sucks when I
tow a heavy trailer up a hill and it dosent downshift.. :( Oh well...


cannandale
'78 F250 4x4, 460



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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 15:05:25 -0500
From: Bill Adams
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wooden Stepside?

And now for something completely different:
Next time your down at the local magazine rack checkin' out the cool
rides in the car and truck magazines, slide on down to the handyman
section. On page 28 of the October edition of _American_Woodworker_
There's a photo of a wooden stepside bed and bumper that some guy built
on his Toy**a Pick-up. It actually looks pretty good.
- --
L8re
Bill Adams
1966 F-100 Custom Cab, 352 V8, PS, AC, Long bed
1961 F-100 Unibody, 223 and a three on the tree!
1992 2wd 4door Elplorer XLT

The WoodButcher's Shop
"http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/heartland/plains/6640"

,.-----__
_ ,:::://///,:::-.
_| ~~. /:''/////// `` ::`;/|/
\, *_} /' ( Ford ) :://'`\
\( .' , |||||| `/( e \
-===~__-'\____ ```\_____/~`-._ `.
~~ ~~ `~-'
The Ford-O-dilla
**************************************************************

**************************************************************


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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:31:39 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Synthetic oils

The F-600 is a 1600 gallon tanker truck. We also have an F-350 (see the
comment about switching a 3 speed to an auto) that has a 600 gallon tank on
it. The F-600 was purchased in Ohio, and my dad and I built the F-350 in our
garage.

JUMPINFORD AOL.com
73 F-250 RangerXLT Camper Special
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:06:29 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - radiator update

Carey & Norm wrote:
>
> John... Do you have a shroud on your new 4-row? Also, is it an
> aftermarket or original overflow bottle? My '65 is currently undergoing
> a '76 460 transplant, and i was wondering about cooling. I have a lot
> of notes from the numerous radiator postings a few weeks back, and
> because of cost, decided to at least try to utilize the 3-row I have

Carey: One option might be to find one of the camper special 4 row
radiators from the 78/79 trucks. They are taller than normal and have
plenty of cooling capacity. Plus you can still buy the factory shroud
for it. The shroud is a must for sitting in traffic in hot temps. I
tried electric fans and they didn't work. The factory set up is the
best.

Thanks
John

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 23:17:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: bill
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Vacuum advance

John,
To check the vacum advance in your distributor, pop the dist. cap,
and pull the vacum advance hose from the carb. Put the hose into
your mouth and suck on it (hmmm...I'm serious here, but that doesn't
sound very nice, does it?), and look for movement in the bottom of
the distributor. As you suck on the hose, you should see the vacum
advance in the distributor working.
Of course, check the vacum hose for gasoline smells (etc.) before
locking lips.
Good luck
Ohio Bill

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:21:12 -0500
From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Synthetic Oils

Gary asks:

>Wally world has no synthetic ATF though so I'll try Meijers. If this
>fails can
>anyone direct me to a brand they've tried that's easy to get and
>relatively
>realistic in price?
>
Sure, you can get Mobil 1 ATF at AutoZone for $4-$5 per quart (depending
on whether it's on sale). They also carry Aamco brand synthetic ATF;
it's marginally cheaper, but I got the Mobil 1.

BTW, the (greasable) U-joints went into the '94 F150 this weekend.
Thanks to all who posted on this topic! The truck is much happier now.

lordjanusz juno.com

"The beatings will continue until morale improves..."

_____________________________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:27:59 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - auto tranny's

>They all vary quite a bit but you can make it shift
>exactly where you want with a few adjustments. C-6's are pretty
>easy.

Gary and all,
My C-6 upshifts too soon IMO. At WOT it will shift at 3650 rpm both 1-2 and
2-3 shift. When I'm in a hurry I shift it manually. The worst condition is
slow speed corners around town. If I take a corner at 10-15 mph the truck
will try to come off the corner in 2nd, enough throttle will force a
downshift but it takes more throttle than I want. With normal in town
driving the upshifts come very quick. I can always force a downshift with
the throttle, but I have to give it 3/4 throttle or more in most conditions.
I haven't adjusted anything yet, kickdown rod seems to be set right
according to the manual.
What other things can I do other than a shift kit can I do? I read
somewhere that there are different modulators available, which color i.d.
would be the one I'd want? What are the modulator and kickdown rod doing
in the transmission?
Thanks for any helpful suggestion............this is a '79 351M, 2WD,
neither engine nor tranny are original and are of unknown origin, gearing
was originally 3.25 but was changed to 3.50.

later,
dale c

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Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:50:59 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - radiator update

>> John... Do you have a shroud on your new 4-row? Also, is it an
>> aftermarket or original overflow bottle? My '65 is currently undergoing
>> a '76 460 transplant, and i was wondering about cooling. I have a lot
>> of notes from the numerous radiator postings a few weeks back, and
>> because of cost, decided to at least try to utilize the 3-row I have

>Carey: One option might be to find one of the camper special 4 row
>radiators from the 78/79 trucks. They are taller than normal and have
>plenty of cooling capacity. Plus you can still buy the factory shroud
>for it. The shroud is a must for sitting in traffic in hot temps. I
>tried electric fans and they didn't work. The factory set up is the
>best.

Dunno if I can agree about the factory setup being "best"...
Good maybe, but there's always room for improvement.
I've encountered plenty of setups that used a a stock setup in
good condition and still overheated during prolonged idle, including
the 4-row camper special radiators.
The big problem is that at idle a mechanical fan just doesn't move that
much air. I just couldn't keep my truck cool at idle with the factory
setup. Even with a good shroud and a brand new 3-row...
I really don't think a 4-row would have helped my situation much, it
needed more air flow at idle, not more radiator capacity.
Once the RPM's are up a ways, the stock fan has the potential to move
more air than electrics, but at idle my electrics move lots more air
than any stock mechanical setup I've yet encountered.
The 2 fans I run have a combined rated capacity of 4600CFM, which is
quite a bit more than a stock mechanical fan can hope to move at 800 rpm.
The setup cost about $125, which is quite a bit, but still less than
the price difference between a brand new 3-row and a new 4-row rad.
(Especially if You've already got a clean 3-row)
A single electric may not do the job since the biggest fan I could
find was only rated for about 3000CFM...
A 4-row radiator presents more restriction to air flow than a 3-row,
so the fan has to work harder to get the same amount of air thru the
rad than with a 3-row. A good clean 3-row rad has plenty of capacity
to get rid of heat, the problem is almost always one of getting enough
air moving at idle to get the heat out of the rad. If Your overheat
problem is during extended idle, You may find that a 4-row doesn't
help much unless You can get more air thru it also.
My setup gets used under some pretty serious conditions, since I
occasionally let it idle for very long periods while I use my on-board
air compressor to run air tools out on job sites.
Even idling for an hour or more on 105+ degree days mine won't overheat.
The fans will run for a few minutes, then shut off for a minute or 2
before they come on again, so it seems I've still got plenty of extra
cooling capacity left...
If You have trouble overheating when towing big loads in the mountains
when the RPM's are up a ways, then a 4-row with a mechanical fan and good
shroud may be Your best bet, but if Your overheat trouble is under
prolonged idle conditions I'm pretty well convinced that a good electric
setup wins hands down.
Superior cooling at idle, plus the advantages of less noise and vibration,
less stress on water pump bearings, and much less horsepower used to run
the fans makes electrics a pretty attractive setup for lots of applications.
I've had my electrics on for over 2 years now, and I'd never go back to a
mechanical fan on my truck.
"Overheat" just isn't part of my trucks vocabulary any more...

YMMV,


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 00:47:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ford68F100 webtv.net (anthony l.)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Windshield Weatherstripping

I have been a member of this list for several months now, but this is
my first post. I own a '68 F100 360/C6, short-styleside bed. I have
owned this truck for about two years and have been dreaming of all the
things I could do to it. My problem now is the weatherstripping. The
truck is in great shape, but here in New Orleans rain is a common....


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