re:FTE 61-79

61-79-list-digest Thursday, August 20 1998 Volume 02 : Number 410

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

re:FTE 61-79 - oil
Re: FTE 61-79 - oil
FTE 61-79 - no brakes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Identification
FTE 61-79 - 390 pistons
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 pistons
FTE 61-79 - tranny cooler
FTE 61-79 - Diesel in Engine oil
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve clatter - Diesel Fuel
[none]
FTE 61-79 - A/C brackets for FE
FTE 61-79 - Regular, Limited Slip, and Posi "identification
FTE 61-79 - 67-72 Gast tank questions
FTE 61-79 - Type of tranny
Re: FTE 61-79 - oil
FTE 61-79 - U-Joints
FTE 61-79 - RE:Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided Now Vacuum tuning.
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Truck Driving Schools (2 of 2)
Re: FTE 61-79 - oil
FTE 61-79 - Re: Universal joints
FTE 61-79 - Re:
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Universal joints
FTE 61-79 - Disk brakes for '61 F-100 2wd
FTE 61-79 - 70 F-100
FTE 61-79 - 352 pistons

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 98 15:14:44 -0400
From: "Donald R. Haulsee"
Subject: re:FTE 61-79 - oil

My Opinion:

Break it in on 10w-30 conventional oil for about 5000 miles. Then change to
synthetic (Mobil 1 or Amsoil) and continue to change the oil and filter every
4-5000 miles.

Don't delay the change to synthetic for more than 20,000 miles. Conventional
oils build up varnish as well as swell the seals slightly. Synthetic will
remove the buildup and the seals will return to original size. On high
mileage engines (70,000 miles +), there is probably 30% chance that either the
front or rear main will leak after a change to synthetic.

Don

66 F100 SEFI 5 liter/AOD
86 Turbocoupe 5spd Intercooled 18psi 162,000 miles and going strong
87 Merkur XR4Ti C3 stock as a rock
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:32:22 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - oil

From: "Bruce Washburn"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - oil
Date sent: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 13:46:30 -0500

> Hi! I am in the process of rebuilding my 240 that has been bored out 60
> over. It is a '67' model and I was just wondering what the best type and
> brand of motor oil to put in it?(I want the engine to last a long time!)
> I live in the Fort Worth, Texas region so it is usually in the 100+'s.
> Any help will be appreciated!

Amsoil, Redline or Mobil1. You can't beat synthetics for long life but make
sure you do a good job on the seals. Amsoil and Redline are both in the $7
range per qt and Mobil1 is generally around $4/qt. Amsoil claims up to 25k
miles per oil change with proper filter changes (two per oil change) and they
guarantee it in writing if you strictly follow their recommendations.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:19:02 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - no brakes

The last time I bought a rotor it was coated in a preservative to prevent
rust while it came over on the boat. The military calls this stuff
cosmoline (I spelled it phonetically). At any rate, you have to remove the
stuff before you install the part or it won't work right.

- -John

jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left door, new left front fender
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI EAOD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (The software box said Windows95 or better, so I
bought a Mac.)
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 16:18:46 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Identification

From: "Chad Pasma"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tranny Identification
Date sent: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:08:02 PDT

> How can I tell what kind of transmissions I have?
> The one on my 351M is C6 for sure but I need to
> know what my other two are. Both are/were from
> 302's.

C-6 and E4OD both have integral housing and bell housing. Both AOD and
C-4 have separate bell housing so if you have separate bell housing and there
is an OD position on your shifter then you have the AOD etc..

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 13:44:30 -0700
From: "todd cook"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 pistons

I'm wanting to rebuild my 1976 3/4 ton 4x4 highboy which currently has a 360 to a 390. My question is- does anybody know where I can buy pistons that will give me 9 or 9.5 compression with the stock 360 heads? thanks Todd

- ---

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 13:54:08 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 pistons

At 01:44 PM 19/08/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I'm wanting to rebuild my 1976 3/4 ton 4x4 highboy which currently has a
360 to a 390. My question is- does anybody know where I can buy pistons
that will give me 9 or 9.5 compression with the stock 360 heads? thanks Todd
>
Silvolite makes all kinds of em. Make sure you specify 390 pistons and not
360's as you will need the slipper skirt. Pistons for my 410 came up about
9:1.

marko in vancouver
marko

dsm.ca

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 17:31:16 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - tranny cooler

Drew writes: >>The instructions say that it is preferable to use it in
series with the stock radiator cooler.

I have two now on M*PARS that I drive daily, and this is the way they are.
The return line from the radiator cooler is interrupted and routed through
the aux cooler and then returns to the tranny. This is also the way the
factory factory setup for M*PARS functions.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 17:46:43 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Diesel in Engine oil

Larry writes: >>Farmers & Machanic's used this method in the 50's & 60s to
clean engines.

Some farmers and a few mechanics still do.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 16:53:05 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve clatter - Diesel Fuel

At 08:43 AM 8/19/98 , you wrote:
>> Don Yerhot wrote:
>> I finally tried pouring 2 quarts of diesel fuel into
>>the engine on top of the existing oil, let it idle for 15 minutes
>
>I don't doubt you when you say this worked, but what is this supposed to do?
>Does the diesel ignite under the pressure and blow out deposits? Perhaps the
>fuel+additives simply chemically clean the deposits off? Sounds really
wierd, I
>dont think I would have had the intestinal fortitude to have tried it.
>bkirking

bcm.tmc.edu

I believe it acts as a solvent and oil thinner.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall

texas.net or mike

chrysler.com
Subject: [none]

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 17:58:07 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - A/C brackets for FE

Bryan writes: >>Soooo, are there any 352's out there with AC that can help
me out? A part number would be great, a source with some would be great, A
used one you want to get rid of would be a dream come true!

Any 390/352 of approximately the same year bracket should work, whether it
be car or truck. There might be some spacing differences for the pulleys
to lineup, but I don't think so.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 18:02:18 EDT
From: BDIJXS

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Regular, Limited Slip, and Posi "identification

Hi Michael,

Well, you've run a little into my turf here on the 69 Dana 60 stuff. The
limited slip will also make both wheels turn the same way when the tires are
off the ground.

Limited slip was definitely an option in 69, as it came in my 69 F-100 4x4
(Dana 60-2, semi-floating axles, 5-lug). I just recently rebuilt it, and stuck
it in a 72 F-250 Dana 60 rear axle, along with new, 30-spline axles and
amazingly, 3" drum brakes from an 80-85 Dodge Dana 60. It was awesome that all
these parts interchanged!

By the way, my unit is called the Dana "Power-Lok". It is the more aggressive
version of the Trak Lok. It has 4 internal gears rather than 2 like the Trak
Lok. I've run this unit for about 20 years now, and never had a problem....

Colorado Jeff

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 18:02:32 EDT
From: BDIJXS

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 67-72 Gast tank questions

Hey Joe,

If you're looking at saddle tanks, I think they are the same. I have the
behind-the-seat tank plus two saddles (roughly 60 gallons total).....

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 18:09:25 -0400
From: am14

chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Type of tranny

Chad writes: >>Does a double input shaft mean lockup converter?

No! Lockups are ID'd by the very tip of the small shaft having a
"finished" end(not splined all the way to the end - usually from 1/2" to 1"
or so). C-6 is identified by the pan being "square" except for one corner
having a notch in it. Does this make sense???????????

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 17:11:35 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - oil

At 01:46 PM 8/19/98 , you wrote:
>Hi! I am in the process of rebuilding my 240 that has been bored out 60
>over. It is a '67' model and I was just wondering what the best type and
>brand of motor oil to put in it?(I want the engine to last a long time!) I
>live in the Fort Worth, Texas region so it is usually in the 100+'s. Any
>help will be appreciated!

In my opinion (disclaimer), break it in with Castrol, Pennzoil, or whatever
straight 30 weight (or 10W-30 if you are doing it in the winter). Change
the oil and filter after cam breakin, then again at 100 miles, then again
at 500, then again at 1000, then every 3000 miles until the thing has at
least 6 to 9000 miles on it, then switch to full synthetic such as Mobil 1
(if you call Mobil 1 a true full synthetic oil). Then change it at every 3
to 6000 (change the filter at 3000 regardless).

Mike
San Antonio, TX

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall

texas.net or mike

fordfan.org
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:50:39 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - U-Joints

For what it's worth (not much but hey I gotta say it anyway), I didn't fully
understand how U-joints worked till I had to replace a set myself. I always
thought that the needle bearings made a complete trip around the spider.
When I got the old ones apart and saw the wear pattern I realized they
couldn't be doing that. So what was up? The wear pattern was little
notches in the spider that the needles fit into. Then I looked at the
motion of the U-joint in the drive line. If the drive shaft was straight
then there would be absolutely no movement of the needle bearings and
consequently no wear on the U-joint. (except for maybe shock load driving
the needles into the spider). As the drive line angle increases then the
distance the needles move increases but there is no point where the needles
would make a continuous and complete circuit around the spider like a normal
bearing in rotational motion. The motion that the U-joint sees is as if it
was stationary and the drive shaft was moving up and down in an oscillating
motion.

Where is this going? Nowhere except there MIGHT be some applications for
permanently lubbed U-Joints in stock applications where the drive shaft
angle is not too great. Lets face it the manufacturer is not going to put
something on the vehicle that they know is not going to outlast the
warantee. In some of our applications (4X4, lifted etc) the drive shaft
angles become greater and the motion of the U-Joint is increased so more
lubrication is needed. An application where a greasable U-Joint is
definitely required. Don't get me wrong I will always install a greasable
U-Joint if there is an option. These are just some thoughts.
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 16:03:20 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided Now Vacuum tuning.

- ------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:04:53 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided

The gauge is not rock steady, it will sit in one spot, then drop for a
second and come back, then maybe rise for a second and come back ... its
really weird, you can hear it in the idle too, so I know its been doing it
for a while. Its not just one cylinder I don't think, its too slow and
irregular to be based on one cylinder, unless its suddenly firing or not
firing after so many revs.

Bill
===========================
Is the needle motion on the guage kind of a slow rolling motion or is it a
little more abrupt. If it is slow and it seems that your engine is
"hunting" for the correct idle speed it could be time for a rebuild on your
carburator. If the carb gaskets are worn and it is not metering properly
the engine will be seeing a continuous shift from rich to normal to lean to
normal etc. and the idle speed will change accordingly. If the needle is
moving more rapidly is sudden "jerky" motions then it could be bad intake
valves or possibly a cam shaft with a lot of overlap. If it is the carb and
you have smog nazis in your neighborhood then you may have trouble passing
the E-check.

Tom H.
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 21:31:11 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Truck Driving Schools (2 of 2)

Dear Ford Truck Enthusiasts list members:

We have a new advertiser on our web site. Since the beginning,
our practice with web site advertisers has been to make a brief
announcement for 2 days (this is day 2 of 2). Please show your
appreciation to them for helping to support the web site and the
lists by checking out their site:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.webspawner.com/users/easyhaul/index.html

Easy Haul is a personalized service by Alan DeBoer Sr., who has
extensive experience as both a professional truck driver and a
certified instructor. If you've considered a career driving a
big rig, Alan offers a locating service of recognized and approved
truck driving schools in the United States or Canada. Check it
out.

We would like to you to let Alan know you heard about his service
via the Ford Truck Enthusiasts group.

Now returning you to our regularly scheduled program... (thanks
Keith, didn't mean to intrude!)

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 21:49:28 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - oil

I'd say break it in on Valvoline for the first 5000, then switch over to Mobil
1 synthetic. This is without a doubt the best oil on the market. Without it
I would be on the 4th engine in my F-600.

JUMPINFORD

AOL.com
73 F-250 RangerXLT Camper Special
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 18:55:49 -0700
From: "Jim Cron"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Universal joints

Another 2c worth. The u-joint body can be made two ways, by forging as one
piece or by taking a round "puck" and spin welding on four legs. You can
tell the difference at a glance. The spin welded ones IMHO are cheep junk,
don't waste your time with them. If it has a forged body and a lube
fitting, and a name I have heard of (for drive train parts, not air
fresheners) on the box, I pay what they ask. U-joints are too much work to
save a few dollars on. "Lubed for life" should be added to the list that
starts with "check is in the mail" and includes "will go out tomorrow".

If you read the fine print that comes with most greaseable u-joints, it will
say that the "grease" in them is a preservative. It is not what you want in
there so you must grease them. I agree w. Marko about not greasing them
until installed, but if you put a c-clamp across each set of caps (loosely)
you can pre-grease them.

Jim
somewhere near Seattle

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 19:05:39 -0700
From: Blaine Strong
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:

Cam and Wilma Kenny wrote:
>
> I have a 1977 F 250 3/4 ton 4x4 standard trany with bo low and soon to be
> powered with a 390... everything is stock except for the 390. do i need a
> pilot bearing for it? some people i have talked to say yes, some say no.
> Any input would be a great help.
> thanks.
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If you have a standard transmission, you better have a pilot bearing or
bushing for the input shaft of the transmission to locate in, or the
clutch disk will wobble, causing poor operation. It probably won't do
the transmission any good either!
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 21:59:56 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Universal joints

At 08:55 PM 8/19/98 , you wrote:
>Another 2c worth. The u-joint body can be made two ways, by forging as one
>piece or by taking a round "puck" and spin welding on four legs. You can
>tell the difference at a glance. The spin welded ones IMHO are cheep junk,
>don't waste your time with them. If it has a forged body and a lube
>fitting, and a name I have heard of (for drive train parts, not air
>fresheners) on the box, I pay what they ask. U-joints are too much work to
>save a few dollars on. "Lubed for life" should be added to the list that
>starts with "check is in the mail" and includes "will go out tomorrow".

I agree with not using the "greased for life" ujoints. Last year during a
fishing trip at Rockport, TX, I broke the ujoint near the transmission
(broke an ear clean off). There was only one parts store in town and all
they had was the non-greasable ujoints. Given the situation I went ahead
and bought it. I just replaced that same ujoint this last weekend because
it was wore out and was causing a vibration.

BTW, the ujoint wasn't the only thing that broke. The transmission yoke
also broke. Somehow the grooves that hold the ujoint cup retaining clips
broke off. It's amazing what a little bailing wire and JB Weld will do in
emergencies.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall

texas.net or mike

aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 70 F-100

What do you think about a 70 f-100 for 950.00 its an automatic with a c-6 also
the engine was supposedly rebuilt about 50k ago... pretty clean, missing a few
chrome pieces but other than that clean, needs the reg. paint, interior
etc..??

Mike in Seattle
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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 03:18:41 -0400
From: "Timothy R. Anderson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 352 pistons

Hi there,
My name is Tim and I'm new to the list. My favorite toy is my
'67 f-100 with 352/NP435. I live in Anchorage Alaska where =....

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