Re: FTE 61-79 - Universal Joints

61-79-list-digest Wednesday, August 19 1998 Volume 02 : Number 409

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Universal Joints
FTE 61-79 - Trans cooler installation
Re: FTE 61-79 - friends truck
Re: FTE 61-79 - Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided
RE: FTE 61-79 - Universal Joints
FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve clatter - Diesel Fuel
FTE 61-79 - stuck lifters
FTE 61-79 - u-joints
FTE 61-79 - headlight aim
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve clatter - Diesel Fuel
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve clatter - Diesel Fuel
re:Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve clatter - Diesel Fuel
Re: FTE 61-79 - auto tranny cooler
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M (I BELIEVE!)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve clatter
Re: FTE 61-79 - Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided
Re: FTE 61-79 - auto tranny cooler
FTE 61-79 - valve clatter
Re: FTE 61-79 - Headlight AIM
FTE 61-79 - AC Compressor bracket - knowledge and expertise
Re: FTE 61-79 - Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided
Re: FTE 61-79 - auto tranny cooler
Re: FTE 61-79 - Universal Joints
Re: FTE 61-79 - Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided
FTE 61-79 - re:66 F100 SEFI V8 Goes Thru Inspection
Re: FTE 61-79 - Universal Joints
re:Re: FTE 61-79 - re:How To Remove Ignition Switch?
FTE 61-79 - oil
FTE 61-79 - Re: auto tranny cooler
FTE 61-79 - Tranny Identification

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:03:26 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Universal Joints

Date sent: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 22:51:08 -0500
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Universal Joints
From: lordjanusz

juno.com (Paul M Radecki)

> OTOH, more expensive doesn't necessarily mean better. Perhaps the
> lubed-for-life kind aren't superior, just more idiot-proof. Opinions?

The OEM's use non zerk units because they are "cheaper" to manufacture.
They both use the same seals and grease and bearings AFAIK. The only
thing you give up with zerk type is a theoretical loss of strength but note
"theoretical" as in not measurable in most cases. A round hole drilled
through a round lug doens't do much to it's integrety especially one as small
as the zerk hole. The yoke of the Ujoint isn't usually the part that breaks
anyway, it usually elongates the cup ring or retainer portion of the drive shaft
yoke or the beaings disintegrate. I don't believe I've ever seen a broken
center yoke in a u joint. For normal street driving the non greasable might be
ok but I prefer to be able to touch up the grease once in a while.

You know why upper ball joints fail more often than lowers? You have to
pull the hubs, spindles and axles to grease them........:-( (live 4x4's)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 05:15:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Trans cooler installation

When installing an auxiliary trans cooler, it should be plumbed
in after the integral cooler in the radiator. You want the fluid to
run through the integral cooler first, then the aux cooler, and
finally back to the trans. Police cars and taxicabs are set up this way.
But which is the input and which is the output line from the
transmission? On my C6 I disconnected both lines from the cooler and
started it up for a MOMENT. This showed me which line was which and
made only a little mess :)
On my 75 F100, it was difficult to find a spot to mount the
cooler in front of the AC condensor. There isn't a whole lot of room
between the condensor and the grille. But I got it in there.

75 F100 360/C6
74 F100 360/C6 (parts)
68 Fairlane 500 Station Wagon 351W/FMX

==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 05:49:34 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - friends truck

>
>
> This may sound silly, but were the rotors/drums, pads/shoes degreased
> before you put the tires on? A couple of greasy hand prints does wonders
> on stopping distances. You can press as hard as you want on the pedal, but
> the brakes won't grab worth he flip.

I always acetone the pads before putting them on so no chance of grease; I'm
really picky about that.

Thanks
John

78 F250 4X4 Supercab

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:04:53 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided

At 02:17 PM 8/17/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Bill:
>
>They do sound chunky when you dial them in right, don't they? But that's
>the beauty of them at idle. WHat do you have total, like when you walk on
>it? You want about 40 degrees in an FE. Mine's timed 10 initial and 41
>total.
>
>16 lbs of vac at idle is plenty fine. Is your vac gauge rock steady? This
>means a lot too.

I plugged my vaccuum gauge in last night, not sure how cool it was to use
the vaccuum advance, but didn't have any extra hose layin around to plumb
into somewhere else. Anyway I'll pick up some of that today and see if I
can get it tuned up tomorrow night.

I was gettin 15inHg (its not really a gauge for tunin carbs, its for
boilers, but works the same, vaccuum is vaccuum right ?) at idle, a little
more at cold idle. By hookin in to the vaccuum advance I was able to find
out I had it plugged in to the wrong port (didn't drop off when you stepped
onit, actually increased with rpm, whoops) and now it runs perfectly
smooth. Might actually have the idle a little too low, but it is just so
nice and smooth I'm afraid to change it.

I haven't played with the timing yet, when you say 10 initial you mean with
the advance (vaccuum) unplugged at idle right ? Where and how do you
measure the 40 ? I guess I'm in the stone ages with a timing light,
because if I remember right my truck isn't marked to 40 for advance. Am I
misunderstanding some basic stuff here ? Please let me know if I am.

The gauge is not rock steady, it will sit in one spot, then drop for a
second and come back, then maybe rise for a second and come back ... its
really weird, you can hear it in the idle too, so I know its been doing it
for a while. Its not just one cylinder I don't think, its too slow and
irregular to be based on one cylinder, unless its suddenly firing or not
firing after so many revs.

One other question that I see a lot on the Mustang board (just got a 96 GT)
is what gap do you guys run on both the points and plugs? I had plugs at
40 or 44, but found 35 the rating and while it may cost some power, it
gives me a lot smoother engine. Also settin the points, do you use dwell
meters or just gap em ?

I just recently graduated so I'm trying to collect what tools I need, got a
good start, but still need things like timing light and dwell meter, or
whatever. Any suggestions ?

Sorry this is so long, but if you guys can help me out without too much
trouble it will save me a lot of questions and trial and error stuff.

Thanks a bunch, this list is great (usually)!

Bill
Just my 2cents

Bill

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/cars.html
for truck make it ..../Trucks/truck.html
for car make it ..../Cars/mustang.html
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 06:10:22 -0700
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Universal Joints

Go with the one with the zerk fitting. I much prefer to crawl under my
truck and pump some grease into each of the u-joints each time I grease my
kingpins, and all the other places that need grease. But then again this is
IMHO.

John
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:43:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking

bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve clatter - Diesel Fuel

> Don Yerhot wrote:
> I finally tried pouring 2 quarts of diesel fuel into
>the engine on top of the existing oil, let it idle for 15 minutes

I don't doubt you when you say this worked, but what is this supposed to do?
Does the diesel ignite under the pressure and blow out deposits? Perhaps the
fuel+additives simply chemically clean the deposits off? Sounds really wierd, I
dont think I would have had the intestinal fortitude to have tried it.

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:48:07 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - stuck lifters

My uncle the retired mechanic used to always pour in a quart of ATF, run it
a while at idle, then change the oil when the noise stopped. If the noise
didn't stop or slow down pretty quick (5 minutes or so), time to take it
apart. Besides, if the lifters really are stuck, you have other problems,
too. Noise means damage.

- -John

jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6, bashed in left door, new left front fender
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI EAOD
Macintosh G3/233 minitower (The software box said Windows95 or better, so I
bought a Mac.)
1979 MC under restoration (my son loves old cars, too!!!)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:42:10 -0500
From: John LaGrone
Subject: FTE 61-79 - u-joints

I just replaced my u-joints a couple of weeks ago. Here's the story.

First, buy the ones with the Zerk fittings. Greased for life means greased
for the life of the bearing, not your life or the truck's life.

HiLo (you can't get near our AutoZone, and when you do, all they do is
answer the phone instead of sell you parts) only carries 3 u-joints. The
one that the computer said fit my truck didn't. The front u-joint was
different from the back joint. The rear joint had larger bearing cups that
fit into the differential, smaller cups into the driveshaft. The front
joint was the same all of the way around. I wound up having to buy three to
make the two I needed.

Be sure to put functional lock washers on the u-bolts holding the rear
u-joint to the differential. Tighten each side of each bolt alternately and
evenly.

It cured my clunk.

- -John

jlagrone

bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - headlight aim

> Mike and Colleen [gastmb

gwis.com]
Thanks for the info. It is a little hard to follow, but I think I got the jist. Given the the
driveway has only a mild slope, I think I can get away with just marking the wall at
the upper edge, center of the headlight. Combine this with John's suggestion of
comparing to a similar vehicle and I should be AOK.

Unfortunately, I was going to take the truck in this morning for inspection, but the
battery was dead, even after leaving it on the trickle charger all night. Looks like I
need to shell out for a new battery. Aye caramba, when it rains it pours!
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:10:12 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve clatter - Diesel Fuel

From: bkirking

bcm.tmc.edu
Date sent: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:43:18 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve clatter - Diesel Fuel

> I don't doubt you when you say this worked, but what is this supposed to
> do? Does the diesel ignite under the pressure and blow out deposits?

Diesel fuel is "wetter" than oil and has solvent characteristics so softens
carbon deposits. Unfortunately anything that does that also allows for them
to fall into the crank case, undisolved in chunks which can get into the
bearings and gallerys and clog things up so it's a last ditch, fix it or kill it deal.

I once filled up a triumph with fuel oil to get it fired up in the winter when the
temps dropped to 29 below. I had straight 30 wt in it and it absolutely would
not turn over. Let it run a few minutes till it warmed up and changed the oil
again :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:24:53 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve clatter - Diesel Fuel

At 08:43 AM 8/19/98 -0500, you wrote:
>> Don Yerhot wrote:
>> I finally tried pouring 2 quarts of diesel fuel into
>>the engine on top of the existing oil, let it idle for 15 minutes
>
>I don't doubt you when you say this worked, but what is this supposed to do?
>Does the diesel ignite under the pressure and blow out deposits? Perhaps the
>fuel+additives simply chemically clean the deposits off? Sounds really
wierd, I
>dont think I would have had the intestinal fortitude to have tried it.
>
>
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>

Farmers & Machanic's used this method in the 50's & 60s to clean engines.

Also poured 1/2 qt of tran. fluid thru the carb. when engine hot to burn

out carbon build up.

Don't know what it would do to sensor's in todays car.

Food for thought.

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 98 10:58:02 -0400
From: "Donald R. Haulsee"
Subject: re:Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve clatter - Diesel Fuel

- ----------------------[Reply - Original Message]----------------------

Sent by:"Larry Schmiedekamp"

Farmers & Machanic's used this method in the 50's & 60s to clean engines.
Also poured 1/2 qt of tran. fluid thru the carb. when engine hot to burn
out carbon build up.
Don't know what it would do to sensor's in todays car.
Food for thought.

=====================================================================

My daughter severly overheated an 86 Taurus when the lower radiator
hose blew and she continued to drive for 10 miles. Actually, she drove it
to the point that the engine died and would not restart for 2 hours. As a fix
it or break it cure to the severe valve clatter that resulted, I poured a qt
of ATF into the crankcase and also poured some down the intake. The clatter
disappeared until the second time she drove it with no water. AT that point,
the head gasket blew. DOA. However, the ATF cure never seemed to bother the
computer system.

The major sensor in question is the O2 sensor. It can get fuel fouled or lead
fouled. ATF and oil will still burn. The key in this is that the car will
need several WOT runs to get the exhaust temps up enough to burn the O2 sensor
clean. If the sensor is fouled too much, it may need to be replaced. I have
had Fuel pressure regulators blow and they have fouled O2 sensors with fuel to
the point that the sensors had to be replaced.

As Gary said, diesel or ATF is a fix it or break it cure. I've only used it a
couple of times when I was more than 50% sure the engine was dead anyway.

Don Haulsee

66 F100 SEFI HO 5 Liter V8 w/ AOD (passed Va State Inspection This Morning)
86 TurboCoupe 18 psi Boost Intercooled 5 spd (Being Converted to R134A
TONIGHT)
87 Merkur XR4Ti C3 auto stock as a rock
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:22:31 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - auto tranny cooler

From: Drew Beatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - auto tranny cooler
Date sent: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 17:53:14 -0600

> 2 months now). The instructions say that it is preferable to use it in
> series with the stock radiator cooler. I didn't plan on doing this. It

Tranny oil breaks down around 275 degrees so as long as you keep it below
that it's pretty safe. The bottom of the radiator is the coolest point in the
radiator and is much cooler than the engine temp registered on your gauge so
it can pull a lot of heat out of the oil. If you then add the cooler you will take
some of the burden off the radiator and keep the tranny even cooler yet.

Unless you get a very large cooler with a fan which is not in line with the
radiator you will not be able to remove as much heat as the radiator can. On
trucks there is usually an unused space to one side or the other of the
radiator you can mount a cooler. You may have to cut out a section of the
radiator support structure to allow air to flow through it. I did this on my 75
van. It's out of the way, fits between the support and grill and does not take
away any air from the radiator that way :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:36:18 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M (I BELIEVE!)

From: gpark

cymer.com
Date sent: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 18:13:47 -0700
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351M (I BELIEVE!)

> 351M and John L's post about his '79 smoking the tires just amazed and
> encouraged me. I'm not looking for a fire breather. Just a fair return
> for my 10 mpg.

I've gotten as high as 14 with my stock after market rebuilt (AFAIK) 351M
or 400 (not sure) with an edlebrock performer dual plane and 600 cfm
Holley. Right now it seems to be hovering between 10 and 12 mpg and gets
on down the road well enough to keep up with traffic. It may be a 400, not
sure, but between 45 and 70 it pretty much goes like you need for passing
and merging on Eway ramps etc.. My 460 definitely does it better but the M
block is doing the job.

I put the 460 in because "I wanted it in there" not because there was no other
way to make the truck go fast. I feel it's a superior design in every respect
and the weight penalty in a truck is moot IMHO so it's the one for me
BUT............TEHO :-) I want to build another one but may mess with the M
block a bit first, we'll see :-) Too bad the bore spacing and deck height
necessitate differnt intakes for the 385 and 335 series or I'd go for the 360
offy and rochester right now but I plan on the 460 in the near futur so don't
want to spent the money on a project that will eventually be scrapped.
OTOH, I may never put a 460 in the bronco so.............

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:02:39 -0400
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Valve clatter

Thanks all for the helpful and interesting tips. In my new FTE-ness, can't
wait to starting investigating and learning more about my Ford van!

John

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:08:05 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided

Date sent: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:04:53 -0500
From: William S Hart
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided

> with the advance (vaccuum) unplugged at idle right ? Where and how do you
> measure the 40 ? I guess I'm in the stone ages with a timing light,

Get some timing tape from Summit or Jeggs or PAW (I think) and over lay
the damper with it after finding the "real" TDC on the damper. The tape is
much easier to see and goes way beyond 40 so you can actually check the
mechanical timing but be aware that an engine turning 3k-4k rpm is very
dangerous to lean over to check timeing due to fan blade and other possible
disasters. Blades do come off and if you are in it's path you will not just be
banged up, you will be dead, just be carefull!

> The gauge is not rock steady, it will sit in one spot, then drop for a
> second and come back, then maybe rise for a second and come back ... its
> really weird, you can hear it in the idle too

Remember that the vacuum is generated from two physical phenomena, the
amount of restriction to the intake and the speed of the engine. Either one or
both of these factors will directly and in a linear fashion affect the vacuum.
If the idle is eccentric so will the vacuum be or if the throttle plate is
bouncing around so will the vacuum. Newer engines have all sorts of valves
in the vacuum line system controlled by temp or just check valves which can
affect the operation of certain devices so when you check the manifold
vacuum for testing purposes you need to hook into the manifold as directly
as possible to avoid biasing your readings.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:34:25 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - auto tranny cooler

> Unless you get a very large cooler with a fan which is not in line with the
> radiator you will not be able to remove as much heat as the radiator can. On
> trucks there is usually an unused space to one side or the other of the
> radiator you can mount a cooler. You may have to cut out a section of the
> radiator support structure to allow air to flow through it. I did this on my 75
> van. It's out of the way, fits between the support and grill and does not take
> away any air from the radiator that way :-)

Just my .02 here, but on my 78, the tranny cooler in the radiator blew out on me and
instead of fixing it I hooked my tranny up to a large flow-thru tranny cooler (not the
aluminum finned one) and have used this set up for several years now. I use my truck
to tow my boat to lake mead, havasu, etc in 100+ heat and have had not any tranny
problems. I should hook up a temp gauge just to see what the coolant is doing but I
change my fluid after a couple thousand miles so not to worried about damage to the
tranny.

If I had the tranny cooler in my radiator still available, I would have definitely run
it in series with the external cooler. This is the way to go for sure.

Thanks
John

78 F250 4X4 Supercab

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:35:11 PDT
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - valve clatter

My '85f-150 300-6 had noisy lifters after sitting over the winter a few
years ago. I added a cup of ATF to the oil and it cleared up the
problem in a few hundred miles.
My Dad had a '76 Econoline van with a 300 in it that was used as a
delivery vehicle..(lots of short trips and lots of idling). That thing
used to wear out a set of lifters a year.

Don Jones, Northern Ont. Canada

85 f-150 sc ~~FOR SALE~~
70 f-250 4X4 "FORDZILLA"
93 Lumina minivan Dustbuster on wheels

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:05:26 -0700 (MST)
From: Andrew Ford -- Speaking for Myself
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Headlight AIM

On Aug 18, 7:18, FTE 61-79 - Headlight AIM bkirking

bcm.tmc.edu wrote:
> I repainted the front grill on my 66 and have put it all back together, but I need to
> reaim the headlights before I go the get my truck inspected. I seem to remeber a
> couple of methods for aiming the lights by parking in front of a wall and making a
> few measurements but I cant find any of my stuff on doing so. Anybody out there
> know how to do this?
>

Arizona doesn't bother checking headlights (except maybe when 1st registering
an out of state title), but...

I've always taken a double level (two glasses at 90 degrees), a wedge of wood,
and a strip of tape.

Lay the wedge on the ground with the tape and the narrow end. Then slide the
level until it's level, secure the level to the wedge with the tape.
Finally, place the wedge side against the level and adjust vertical alignment
until the level is centered. (I read the label on one of them fancy $10
headlight adjusters - figured I could save $10 8^)

For leftright alignment, straight ahead at about 5-10 ft.

78 F150 Ranger 4x4 Supercab - 351M
- --
Andrew Ford (602)581-4499
forda

agcs.com Si vis pacem, parabellum.
Above is *my* opinion, for theirs see below...
AG Communication Systems - Expand the power of your network.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.agcs.com
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:43:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking

bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AC Compressor bracket - knowledge and expertise

I know that someone on this list can help with this...

I am adding AC to my 66 352 (no power steering) 4 speed.
The AC people don't have an appropriate bracket for mounting the compressor
(Sanden brand, but they do have a Sanden to York adapter).
I called their recommended source which gave me a part #, C6 SZ 2882 A, but
they don't have any. Ford Parts Dept says they dont carry any. Local Mustang
guy says he has some brackets but not this particular part. Other ford dealers
cant figure out which one I need.

Soooo, are there any 352's out there with AC that can help me out? A part
number would be great, a source with some would be great, A used one you want
to get rid of would be a dream come true!
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 4 speed
Houston, Texas

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:39:33 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided

At 12:08 PM 19/08/98 +0000, Gary replied:
>Date sent: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:04:53 -0500
>From: William S Hart
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided
>
>> with the advance (vaccuum) unplugged at idle right ? Where and how do you
>> measure the 40 ? I guess I'm in the stone ages with a timing light,
>
>Get some timing tape from Summit or Jeggs or PAW (I think) and over lay
>the damper with it after finding the "real" TDC on the damper. The tape is
>much easier to see and goes way beyond 40 so you can actually check the
>mechanical timing but be aware that an engine turning 3k-4k rpm is very
>dangerous to lean over to check timeing due to fan blade and other possible
>disasters. Blades do come off and if you are in it's path you will not
just be
>banged up, you will be dead, just be carefull!>

If you have a delux timing light like a snapon, they have a digital readout
so you can zero the thing, then rev the engine up and the little numbers on
the light will tell you what the centrifugal and vacuum advance are doing
to the timing.

You better believe you shud watch out when you check the advanced timing
when you rev the engine. This is why one of these timing lites with the
digital readout is so cool; once you set the initial to the damper at idle,
you press a button, then stand back and rev the snot out of the engine....

>> The gauge is not rock steady, it will sit in one spot, then drop for a
>> second and come back, then maybe rise for a second and come back ... its
>> really weird, you can hear it in the idle too

So you've got a lope in your idle. This has to do with a number of things.
Your idle is affected by how your ignition is set. Make sure your points
are gapped right and all that. The lope can also be affected by fuel
mixture. Also, as gary sez, vacuum problems don't help. Check to see your
vacuum pot on your distributor doesn't leak. Check your power brake
booster fittings. Also, REPLACE YOUR PCV valve and check your air
breather. Nobody ever bothers to do this and it really can hurt
performance.

Just my 2 canadian cents worth.

marko in vancouver

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:49:40 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - auto tranny cooler

John If you don't mind me asking, Where do you Live? I'm in Vegas and the
Lake Mead thing caught my eye. It'd be nice knowing there's an FTE member
near bye in case I run into any trouble with mine.

JUMPINFORD

AOL.com
73 F-250 RangerXLT Camper Special
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:51:53 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Universal Joints

At 12:44 AM 19/08/98 -0700, you wrote:
>
>>Okay, straw poll: go with the (slightly cheaper) greasable joints or the
>>lubed-for-life type? Cost is no object (they're both cheap), just
>>strength and longevity. The stock joints have no zercs; seems odd that
>>they would use the more expensive type on such a base model truck but I
>>suppose the good Ford works in mysterious ways. OTOH, more expensive
>>doesn't necessarily mean better. Perhaps the lubed-for-life kind aren't
>>superior, just more idiot-proof. Opinions?
>>lordjanusz
>
> When the parts guy brings me a "greased for life" bearing, I toss
> it back over the counter and tell him to bring me a real one...
> I want a u-joint I can grease once or twice a year.
> I don't care how much more expensive the "greased for life" bearings
> are... I still don't want 'em.
>
With proper greasing, u joints shud last an extremely long time. Without
proper greasing, who knows? Six months? A year? You still have to pull
the caps off to put them on, so how bloody long would you expect them to
last?

Anybody ever seen a U-joint "spider" break? I haven't. The only way they
fail is when the needles wear into the cups (or they rust from lack of
greasing).

You have to grease the rest of the truck, so why not grease your u-joints
too? They last longer that way, and force you to check them. That way, you
can check them and replace them if they go off on you before you end up
needing a pinion seal or a tailshaft seal as well.

Finally, one important point. Having installed a few 20049's in my day, I
have noticed that they are all lubed with this blue stuff that looks a lot
like pre-lube. I always make it my practice to blow them full of EP prior
to use, since I don't have any faith in the pre-lube. Newbies, NEVER
install a u-joint without greasing it right away.

And for real newbies, NEVER attempt to grease a u-joint without installing
it first!!!!

marko in vancouver
marko

dsm.ca

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 13:50:42 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided

Date sent: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:39:33 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Mystery Solved-Disaster avoided

> Your idle is affected by how your ignition is set. Make sure your points
> are gapped right and all that. The lope can also be affected by fuel
> mixture.

Yeah, I forgot to mention this in my post, lean idle can cause a lope as can
improper timing, usually too advanced. Fixing the timing issues is a whole
nuther tirade........:-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 98 13:59:50 -0400
From: "Donald R. Haulsee"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re:66 F100 SEFI V8 Goes Thru Inspection

I stopped at the local tire place this morning to get the truck inspected.
I've been dreading this because this is my EFI conversion. Even though I
called the Division Of Motor Vehicles and checked that my SEFI conversion was
legal, I had reservations on how the process was going to go. The DMV said
that in Virginia, the vehicle must conform to all emissions requirements for
its year of manufacture as shown on the registration. That means that a 66
vehicle has no requirements.

I asked to get it Inspected and got the usual response of "Can you leave it
here all day? We might be able to work it in." I told them no I couldn't and
we negotiated from there. Actually, when they saw the truck, they said that
they would go ahead and take it first thing. (The SEFI conversion can't be
seen without opening the hood, so they were just taking because it looked like
an old truck in good shape).

The mechanic pulled it into the bay and had someone watch all the lights (they
all worked). Then he opened the hood and came into the shop waiting room to
find me. This is how things went as nearly as I can remember:

Mechanic "I'm sorry, but you're going to have to leave that truck here"

Me "Excuse me, I don't understand"

Mechanic "I need the rest of the day to figure out how what to do with this
thing"

Me "Uhh, How about inspecting it?"

Mechanic "Who put that engine in there?"

Me "I did"

Mechanic " Great, explain to me how to hook a Fuel injection engine up in a
60"s Ford cause I have this 63 Fairlane that I want to put a SEFI V8 Mustang
engine in"

30 minutes later, after I went over everything in detail with the Shop Owner
and the Mechanic, I was on my way with a new inspection sticker and a lead on
a local guy who painted prepped vehicles with HVLP in Urethane for reasonable
prices.

In 90's slang,"NETWORKING, AIN'T IT GREAT"

Don
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 13:58:48 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Universal Joints

Date sent: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:51:53 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Universal Joints

> And for real newbies, NEVER attempt to grease a u-joint without installing
> it first!!!!

Whyyyyyyyyyyyyeeeeeeeee Marko? How far did you say.........you found it
under what.........and it was all full of dirt? Don't take your drive shaft off
with out taping the caps either for the same reasons :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 98 14:04:39 -0400
From: "Donald R. Haulsee"
Subject: re:Re: FTE 61-79 - re:How To Remove Ignition Switch?

I replaced the ignition switch last night.

I would like to tahnk all who responded. Your information really helped.

Thanks,

Don

66 F100 SEFI 5 liter conversion
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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 13:46:30 -0500
From: "Bruce Washburn"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - oil

Hi! I am in the process of rebuilding my 240 that has been bored out 60
over. It is a '67' model and I was just wondering what the best type and
brand of motor oil to put in it?(I want the engine to last a long time!) I
live in the Fort Worth, Texas region so it is usually in the 100+'s. Any
help will be appreciated!

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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:56:56 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: auto tranny cooler

On Tue, 18 Aug 1998, Drew Beatty wrote:
>
> Azie Wrote:
>
> >The 428 was sufficient to
> >do 70 mph, but the tranny got fried I knew better, but in my haste to get
> >to the gin, I acted foolish. If you are going to USE an automatic be sure
> >you add an aux cooler.
>
> Azie. I have been wondering about this. I picked up a B&M supercooler for
> my soon to be revitalized truck (I know I know, I've been saying this for 2
> months now). The instructions say that it is preferable to use it in series
> with the stock radiator cooler. I didn't plan on doing this. It would seem
> to me that running it through the hot radiator would offer less
> cooling--and also warm up the antifreeze, and it would be preferable to
> just run the fluid to the cooler alone.
>
> Any thoughts? Anybody?

The OEMs do it this way, so it must be good, right? Let's think of it
this way. First the oil goes through the water which should not be much
hotter than 200 degrees. This is a workable temperarue for the trannie
but when you really start to get your foot in it it may not be so
effective any more. That 200 degree oil return may not be enough to
keep the trannie cool when its temperature starts to exceed 300. So we
add an aux cooler after the radiator. This cooler is getting fresh air
which in the worst case won't be more than 120 degrees. Not sure how
effective the oil-to-air cooler is, but it's definitely much better than
nothing. However, we are relying on the oil-to-water cooler to remove
the bulk of the heat and the oil-to-air cooler to drop it further than....

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