61-79-list-digest Saturday, August 8 1998 Volume 02 : Number 396



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - RE: mixed bag -- 390 Main bearings
FTE 61-79 - RE Seat belts
FTE 61-79 - RE: Towers
FTE 61-79 - 460 AOD?
FTE 61-79 - BRAKES
FTE 61-79 - engine color 1965 240 ci
FTE 61-79 - STU!!!!!
FTE 61-79 - 4X4 introduction in FE FT
FTE 61-79 - D70 Front
FTE 61-79 - Reversed pistons
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Towers
Re: FTE 61-79 - M-block factory cam specs
FTE 61-79 - REPLACING FLOOR PANELS
FTE 61-79 - Re: IN-CAB FUEL TANK PROBLEMS
FTE 61-79 - RE:RE: Seatbelts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacing floor panels
FTE 61-79 - Re: MASTER CYL & SHOW COLORS
Re: FTE 61-79 - REPLACING FLOOR PANELS
Re: FTE 61-79 - BRAKES
FTE 61-79 - Looking for article on FE Head Plug/oil
FTE 61-79 - Vans
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vans
FTE 61-79 - Ford trucks email addresses and web space (free)
RE: FTE 61-79 - Reversed pistons, part one.
FTE 61-79 - leak from heater
Re: FTE 61-79 - leak from heater
FTE 61-79 - Plastic Chrome Plating ?
FTE 61-79 - Bolt Torque Spec
FTE 61-79 - 9" axle questions
FTE 61-79 - 9" question add on
Re: FTE 61-79 - Looking for article on FE Head Plug/oil
FTE 61-79 - 360/390

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Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 10:56:23 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: mixed bag -- 390 Main bearings

Michael wrote:
========================================
When I disassembled my 390 for rebuild, I noticed the main bearing caps
had 2 sets of numbers stamped into them (one large, and one small). After
installing fresh bearings on the caps (+ fresh crankshaft), It was
impossible to reassemble exactly as it was disassembled. It was a perfect
fit when I switched the cap locations around to the "other set of numbers",
which pointed all arrows in the same direction.
Is this a common practice to switch cap positions (and reverse direction
of arrow) in order to compensate for worn crankshaft + bearings? That is the
reason for the "jumbled up caps" (2 sets of numbers + reversed arrows),
isn't it?

Michael
SLC, Utah
=======================================
Steve Christ discusses this in his book "How to Rebuild Ford Big Block
Engines" (did I get the title right?)
I can't remember why he said it might be desireable to mix up the bearing
caps but he stated that if this was done that the block had to be align
honed to make it work. After being honed the new location of the cap
becomes its permanent home. It seems weird that the block wouldn't go back
together the way it came apart.

Tom H
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Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 11:01:36 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE Seat belts

Mike wrote:
- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 00:51:40 -0400
From: Mike and Colleen
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Seat belts

I just purchased a 1970 F-100 that has no seatbelts in it. I would
really like to put 3 point belts in and was wondering if anyone here
has done this, or has any good ideas. Thanks in advance.

Mike Gast
===========================
You can probably adapt a belt from just about any donor car. Some later
models had a 3 point arangement with one retractor assembly. This might be
the easiest to adapt. The end of the belt anchors to the floor of the cab,
the belt goes through the fastener/buckle up to an anchor on the side of the
cab at ear level, and then back down to the floor to the retractor. I had a
D-50 with this arrangement. You might also check the belt system on a mid
70's Ford SuperCab. It still has 2 retractors but the one for the shoulder
harness is mounted on the floor and it has a slide through anchor mounted on
the cab wall at about ear level.

Tom H.
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Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 14:30:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Towers

In my experience when swapping my motor the towers would only go on one
side i.e. boltholes for the left side only matched the left side frame
rail and the right side mount holes matched the right hand frame rail.

Duke
69 F-100
72 FLH

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Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 13:50:57 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 AOD?

>They didn't make an AOD for a 460 until the 80's. Talking to a transmission
>shop, they say that a C6 AOD from a later model will work, but will not just
>be a drop in. That is all I know. Wish I could tell you how much changing is
>required, because I would like an AOD behind my 460 too.
>
It's not an AOD, it's an E4OD. Two completely different transmissions.

You can buy an adaptor to operate the computer controlled E4OD with a
non-computer engine but it's pricey. There is no such a thing as a 460 AOD
or a C6 AOD, although the E4OD is based on the C6 so I assume that is what
you are talking about.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 14:27:00 -0500
From: jedolson juno.com (JOHN E DOLSON)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - BRAKES

My '74 F250 is similar in that the front and rear sometimes don't do the
same things on gravel or dirt but usually I notice my front locking and
my
rear still rolling.

This sounds like the same problem I had about 6 months ago on my 76 F150.
I found that one of the rear, steel brake lines had a tiny pinhole in it.
I replaced the lines and everything works perfectly.

_____________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 07 Aug 98 15:37:25 -0500
From: jschanba admin.fsu.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - engine color 1965 240 ci


Can anyone tell me and perhaps document the factory engine color for
the 240 ci six? I strongly believe it was black for only this year
(the first year for the 240) and then blue afterwards.

Thanks

John - jschanba admin.fsu.edu


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Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 16:00:37 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - STU!!!!!

Stu,

Welcome back! I still don't know if I'm going to forgive you for showing up
to the F100 SuperNats in Pigeon Forge in a G*C. What's up with that?

The A/C is in but not blowing cold air yet. Thanks to the list, I finally
found a bearing for my idler pulley. The only thing left right now to do is
charge her up with cold blowing R12. I split the case on her, put in a new
heater core, repainted all the metal with a high solids paint, polished
everything else. That A/C unit looks good as new. Ran all the electrical
checks according to the manual and everything is a go! Just have to buy
that R12.

Welcome Back! Next summer we have to talk SWMBO into getting you a PC with
an internet account.

Later,

Ted
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Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 16:18:05 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 4X4 introduction in FE FT

Joe DeL. writes:
behind a FE motor and have 4 wheel drive?????

I think it was 1965!!! ??? 352 and 4X4.


Azie


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Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 16:25:52 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - D70 Front

OX writes: >>They made a dana 70 front??? COOL!!!

I do not know this for a fact. I've been told that they did make a D 70
Front. Never seen one.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 16:30:41 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Reversed pistons

Sleddog writes in response to my query on reversed pistons on rods: >>
"free" horsepower!

Care to elaborate a bit here? I sure don't understand how reversing the
pistons could make more HP with no other changes!!!!! I won't be able to
communicate again until Monday, but I really want to know more about this
trick. will it work in a stock 460???

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 14:33:18 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Towers

At 02:30 PM 07/08/98 -0400, you wrote:
>In my experience when swapping my motor the towers would only go on one
>side i.e. boltholes for the left side only matched the left side frame
>rail and the right side mount holes matched the right hand frame rail.

If you're talking FE towers, one is longer, and the other is shorter. They
are also marked "RH" and "LH" somewhere on them.

marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

WELCOME BACK STU!!!!

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Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 20:25:05 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - M-block factory cam specs

Dave Resch wrote:
>
> >From: luxjo thecore.com
> >Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - M-block factory cam specs
> >
> > I have the Ford 78 truck shop manual and thats what
> >they list?? The Hanes Ford truck manual I have lists
> >the ".433" lift for a 78, 400 and the 79 351M/400. It lists
> >the 78 351M as having the smaller cam. It's out now,
> >so I guess I can mike it :-).
>
> Yo OX:
>
> Could be that the 351Ms used in '77-'78 trucks were from the same
> production as the car engines.

Yes, I guess. I measured the cam lobe and it is the smaller cam.
Supposedly 78 400 had the bigger cam.

> That looks like a real nice low-end cam. I especially like the healthy
> lift and moderate duration. It is pretty close to the Comp 255DEH cam
> (203/216 0.050, 0.465/0.495 gross lift), but the Crane has much better
> lift. I've been looking at the Comp 265DEH (211/223 0.050, 0.484/0.510
> gross), but I like the lift of the Crane you mentioned even more. I would
> think that should really open up the M-block at lower revs.
>
> One note about the relatively high lift, you will need aftermarket valve
> springs to support that lift.

What do you recommend for valve springs? Do you think there will be any
V/P interference.

Stock M-block springs will bind at approx

> toward approx 210/225 0.050 w/ over 0.500 lift on both valves. That
> ought to bring in some serious torque well below 4K rpm. I used to want a
> torque peak at around 2K rpm, but I am beginning to think that as long as
> there's good torque at 2K, the ideal torque peak would be around 2500-3500
> rpm.
>

I'm so undergeared, I'll be lucky if I ever see over 2000 RPM (OK,
slight exaggeration ;-)), except for first gear.

OX
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Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 20:27:55 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - REPLACING FLOOR PANELS

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 20:26:08 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Replacing floor panels
>
> Well, the time has come to replace the "floor" that remains in my truck.
As much as I have been enjoying the extra air conditioning it provides
during the hot months, my dates do get a little irked when they look down
and see the ground slipping past at 65 mph.

What's a fair price to have a professional shop do it for me?

> Daniel H. Jenkins

Ain't it funny how most women can't take a little thrill in a truck but
look what they'll do in the front 3 rows at Chippendale's on ladies nite !
! ! ! ! !
........sounds like you have already got the repair panels cut to size
ready for putting down over the old floor (or lack of it)
If you don't......try to do this yourself because most welding shops or
machine shops won't really do this at an economy level because its
something they don't regularly do, and they will consider it a very custom
job and charge accordingly.
Once you've got the panels cut and shaped to fit, if you drill some 3/8 to
1/2 inch holes in the new panels, clean the rust off the old floor where
the holes show thru...... any shop can just take a MIG welder and spot weld
the holes in a few minutes. They shouldn't charge you much because it will
only take them about 10 minutes a side to do this. You have got to do the
prep work though. Also, make sure you use some Ospho or Mr. Derusto before
you put the carpet back.
We have a few machine shops around here that do welding too and charge
$40.00 hour for basic stuff.
Once you find a shop to do the welding, it probably wouldn't hurt to tell
them you're *starting* a complete restoration on the truck....that way they
won't ask you.......Why dont ya git yerself a new truk, sonny ? ? ?
Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
1970 F100 (ret)


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Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 21:51:35 -0400
From: pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: IN-CAB FUEL TANK PROBLEMS


cleaned the pickup
tube or whether you just fabricated a
new one. After you roto-rooted yours, did you get all the *stuff* out
of
it or did you have to use a new pickup tube ?
Since there was some opinions on whether I may have a pin-hole in
my tube
sucking air when the level gets real low , I was curious if you had your
old tube out if you found any pin-holes ? ?
Jerry>>>>>>>>

Jerry, I had to roto-rooter the tube while the pickup tube was still in
the tank. Now remember that I was working on a 65 tank. I do not know if
Ford made the pickup tube removable in later years but there was no way
to remove it from the tank. I thought I could when I first started. It
looked like the tube was just soldered in place from the outside of the
tank. I flushed the tank very well to get all the gas out then put a
torch on the solder surrounding the tube. Once I got all the solder off I
noticed three dimples in the metal surrounding the tube. These dimples
were spot welds that attached a flange from the inside of the tank to the
pickup tube. All the solder did was act as a seal. The tube must have
been spot welded in place before the two halves of the tank were
assembled during the manufacturing process.

Cold, wet and frustrated (i did this one rainy day last winter because I
had too!) I re soldered the area and broke out the drill/wire combo as a
last resort. It worked! I removed lots of gunk, flushed the tank again,
then installed it. Have not had a problem since.

If you do have a pinhole in the pickup tube then I see only two options.
One is replace the tank and the other is keep your tank filled up.

Jon E. Purut
Pickup65 juno.com
JCPurut worldnet.att.net
Visit my site http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~JCPurut

1964 F500 Face lift in progress
1965 F100 Taking off the road for engine swap
1965 F100 Lots of pieces
1977 F150 I like driving this beast
1970 Mustang Fastback

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Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 01:43:27 -0400
From: Mike and Colleen
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:RE: Seatbelts

Jerry,
Thanks for the advice. I wasn't sure if the recessed nuts would be
"durable" enough. There are only 4-5 threads on mine. I guess if I
hit something hard enough to rip the threads out I'll have bigger
things to worry about, eh?

Thanks again,
Mike



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Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 00:56:38 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacing floor panels

From: Daniel
>I've been thinking of screwing them in, but I don't like the idea of
that
>many screws poking through the floor. I've also thought about
pop-rivets.
>I'm still thinking about pop rivets. I would prefer to have them
welded
>in, though. What's a fair price to have a professional shop do it for
me?

Pop rivets may work if you only want to block out the ground. A welder
may do it cheap if he's not busy and he'll pocket the cash. Call around
because prices will vary. Do all the prep work yourself so all that
needs to be done is the welding. I had a motorcycle frame that had 2
broken tubes and the neck was badly tweaked. A motorcycle frame repair
shop wanted $300+ to fix it. I did the prep work and a welder
straightened the frame and did the welding for $40. You may find a deal
too. Good luck!
Later

Deacon
deconblu gte.net http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
==============================================
Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm
==============================================



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Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 06:14:30 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: MASTER CYL & SHOW COLORS


> Personal taste I guess. I would try to keep it natural, and just a
couple of weeks ago I saw some paint that was "cast iron" color. Can't
remember the particulars, but I tried it on something (just a tad) and sure
enough it looked like new cast iron.

>Thank you, thank you. You're right on. My CRS is acting up again. Just
found the stuff you may have been talking about in the Eastwood catalog.
Pg 9 - Spray Grey - protects cast iron parts and maintains their fresh
cast appearance.

Other brands of cast iron paint are available, such as Nybco, etc. I have
used those, and just buy them at the local parts chains such as Autozone,
Advance, or Pep Boys. All that I have tried seem to work well, the only
difference being slight variance in the shade of gray. The dry time is
pretty quick, and to help things along a little, I usually degrease the part
well, then set it in the sun for an hour to heat up good and hit it light
with the first coat and it will 'flash dry' and you move right into the
second coat. If the part is low to where it may get road water, I would use
three coats. I have used it on brake parts, (calipers and disc hubs) and it
has held up well against rust.



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Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 08:39:59 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - REPLACING FLOOR PANELS

From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - REPLACING FLOOR PANELS
Date sent: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 20:27:55 -0400

> Once you've got the panels cut and shaped to fit, if you drill some 3/8
> to 1/2 inch holes any shop can just take a MIG welder and spot
> weld the holes in a few minutes.

Why make them work so hard? With sheet metal 3/16 or at most, 1/4"
would be sufficient for a good weld. Larger holes tend to cause too much
dwell in one spot and begs for holes to be burned through. With smaller
holes it only takes a second or two to fill them and make a good hot, well
penetrated weld in sheet metal.

I use larger holes when spotting heavy steel on occasion which allows more
room for the nozzle to get close to the bottom piece of steel and do a better
job but sheet metal is so thin that there is no interferance with the nozzle and
in fact I sometimes actually just burn through the top layer and spot them
together depending on circumstances and strength requirements etc. BUT the
holes are definitely the best way to do it, I just wouldn't make them as large
as that :-)

Another thing you can do is actually pop rivet the repair panels in with
STEEL pop rivets and the welder will have little trouble getting it right. I've
seen articles where they recommend pop rivets and sealer for certain firewall
repairs on fancy hot rod trucks. I prefer welding but riveting is definitely a
good way to get everything to stay in place while welding and the rivets
themselves can be drilled out later and welded over for a nice finish too.


Greed is the Creed of the Breed
that did away with the Steed
Visteon, Delphi..........:-(

- -- Gary --
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Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 09:23:09 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - BRAKES

Date sent: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 14:27:00 -0500
Subject: FTE 61-79 - BRAKES
From: jedolson juno.com (JOHN E DOLSON)

> My '74 F250 is similar in that the front and rear sometimes don't do the
> same things on gravel or dirt but usually I notice my front locking and my
> rear still rolling.

If your brakes are set up to give max brakeing on pavement the rear should
slide on dirt while the front keep rolling. I've tightenend up my adjustable
proprortioning valve all the way tight and still have insuffucient rear braking.
I believe the reason for this is my valve is made for race cars which weigh
roughly 3400# or less and which typically will have lighter rear ends than a
truck (especially loaded truck) so less spring is needed to make them balance
but on a truck I think a heavier spring would be needed to get the right
balance. I may try splicing the rear line around the valve and see what 100%
rear brakes do on pavement and this is with F-350 cylinders in back with
1/16" larger diameter piston. I've come to the conclusion that you will not get
both ends to lock up at the same time on ice without having the adjuster in
the cab (one of my plans) so getting it right on pavement is the right thing to
do since 95% or my driving is on pavement, perhaps even more. On
slippery surfaces you just have to allow yourself more room to stop and
practice threshold braking :-)

Greed is the Creed of the Breed
that did away with the Steed
Visteon, Delphi..........:-(

- -- Gary --
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Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 09:45:52 -0400
From: "joe"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Looking for article on FE Head Plug/oil

I am looking for the article of the FE heads to plug the oil passages to
keep
more oil on the bottom end..if you have this please email me a copy
Thanks
Joe

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Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 09:31:08 -0500
From: Albert Evitts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vans

Van people: Is anybody using vans on this list? My main interests
are 63 pickups and 2d generation vans with short wheelbase. any others
as demented?

Al
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Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 11:21:38 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vans

Date sent: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 09:31:08 -0500
From: Albert Evitts
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vans

> Van people: Is anybody using vans on this list? My main interests
> are 63 pickups and 2d generation vans with short wheelbase. any others as
> demented?

I've had 2 vans, a 73 E-300 club wagon and a E-150 cargo which I converted
to long wheel base bronco (4x4) (now THAT was demented :-)) I just
posted my list of vehicles owned over the years to the bronco list. Here they
are again:

Let's see, 68 auto-stick VW (oops), 49 ford flat head 6, 62 cutlass(oops), 68
spit fire, (oops), 2-66 customs, 55 pontiac (oops), 48 stake truck, 70
Montego, 68 pu, 73 E-300 van, 75 E-150 van, 65 Scout (oops), 62 F-600
stake truck, 67 pu, 86 cougar, 88 festiva, 78 pu, 92 Tempo, 92 Tbird, 78
bronco, 94 Tbird, 78 Lincoln.............Yup, no chevies :-) Oh and 84 cougar
for race car project (aborted due to a wedding which was the subject of
another post)

I put a 351C in the 75 (that was demented too) then a 429 (most fun engine
ever) and then a 460 which now resides in the 78 pickup with wide ratio C-6.
I really liked both vans but the 73 had a dog of a 302 in it and I never liked
the power it had or the gas mileage either. It's a shame to have no power and
still only get 8 - 10 mpg or 12 on a good day. I get 12 with the 460 and have
no complaints about it's power :-)


Greed is the Creed of the Breed
that did away with the Steed
Visteon, Delphi..........:-(

- -- Gary --
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Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 13:50:58 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ford trucks email addresses and web space (free)

There was an announcement made one week ago about offering
personal email addresses with Ford Truck Enthusiasts
(yourname ford-trucks.com). This service is now in place.
Additionally, we are now offering, on a first come, first
serve basis, free web pages!!!

Here's all the info, concerning the email addresses and
web space:

Email addresses (not free):
===========================
A. Pricing
- $2.50 per month with a $5 setup fee. Address is available
in 6 month increments so the initial cost is $20 for six
months.
- renewal every six months is $15 ($2.50/month)
- If you purchase 1 year in advance, the setup fee is
waived and your cost is $30.
- Additional addresses are available at the cost of $1.75
per month with a $2.50 setup fee for each address.

B. These are for personal use only, not for use by businesses.

C. Each mailbox has a 2 meg storage quota. That enough to
hold quite a bit of email when you go on vacation!

Web space
=========
A. We have about 4 meg of space available for personal/club
web sites.

B. We plan to offer 10 free sites, on a first come, first
serve basis. Space limitation per site is 409k. Doesn't
sound like much but here's some information put it in
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Combination email address/web sites are available. These email
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CoAdmins, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 14:19:14 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Reversed pistons, part one.

first, it won't work on a stock 460 with single valve notches. it may (i
never did it) work with the big dished pistons or ones with 4 valve
releifs. generally it is a non-canted valve head thing to reverse pistons.

most stock pistons have an offset pin. the pin is offset from the center
of the bore by a small amount (the 460 is .060 i think). it is offest
towards what is called the minor thrust face. this is the thrust face that
the piston runs along when the piston is moving up. under the power stroke
it runs against the major thrust face.

Detroit offsets the pistons to reduce noise and decrease piston/cyl. wear.

when a pin is offset, the TDC and rod angle at TDC change. the oem,
changes it the wrong way for power. if you move the pin towards the major
thrust face, you get more effective use of the expanding gasses during the
highest peak cylinder pressure because of this. to be sure though, it may
require changed cam timing to get maximum effect for an engine "on the
edge."

offsetting pins also makes the stroke longer (by a VERY small amount).

in effect it also changes the engine's breathing ability. when offset to
the proper side (major thrust face) breathing capacity of the cylinder can
increase by small amounts (but, think, 1% of 500 hp is 5 hp, and 5 hp could
win the race.) -peak piston speed will occur when the intake valve is
opened further than without, or with the wrong pin offset-of course the
exhaust pulse is the biggest influence, but piston speed does help cylinder
filling i.e. volumetric efficiency.

on many engines that are wedge head, but not canted valve heads, like SBC,
SB mopar, and maybe the ford W engines and maybe even the FE the OEM
pistons have a pin offest, therefore the arrow pointing forward in the
engine so that the offset is the same as intended by the manufacturer of
the engine. many of these engines use the same piston for all cylinders.
(my last 460 using TRW forgings, the left and right bank used different
pistons as they are the "single eyebrow" type.)

If the piston is the same for all cylinders, the valve notches must be
located for use on either side of the engine. this means that you can turn
the piston around the other way, putting the offset on the power producing
side for some extra power that is free. not to say there are no
disadvantages, but non so great as to rule out this practice. if you want
150,000 miles out of the engine, put them in the way OEM intended. if you
want 100,000 miles and a few extra ponies, put them in "backwards".

note: most high performance piston, and custom pistons do not have a pin
offset at all. turning these around does nothing at all. it is all in the
pin offset. i like to think of pin offset as a longer and shorter rod
depending on where the piston is in the stroke. it effects things similiar
to rod length, but with some differences tossed in that rods do not effect
at all.

and lastly, the higher the comporession, the more benefit can be expected
from the proper offsetting of the pin. may work real well with nitrous
too! :)

i reserve comment till a later date on the frictional effects and the
piston rocking by changing pin location and uneven piston weight and
pressure influences and how that limits the advantages of offsetting pins
after a certain distance.

was this any explaination at all? later.

sleddog

PS: good reading would be Drag Racing Monthly. article by Vizard called
Size Does Matter. August 1998. talks about the pin offsetting, with some
dyno results, and rod lengths too.

- ----------
From: am14 chrysler.com[SMTP:am14 chrysler.com]
Sent: Friday, August 07, 1998 4:30 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Reversed pistons

Sleddog writes in response to my query on reversed pistons on rods: >>
"free" horsepower!

Care to elaborate a bit here? I sure don't understand how reversing the
pistons could make more HP with no other changes!!!!! I won't be able to
communicate again until Monday, but I really want to know more about this
trick. will it work in a stock 460???

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 11:40:09 -0700
From: bertolina juno.com (NineteenSixtyFive F100)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - leak from heater

Hi, one of the heater hoses on my 1965 F-100 240 6 cyl developed a hole
in it so I replaced both hoses. Since then, there has been a leak from
the heater area running down the firewall on the inside of the cab. This
does not seem to occur when the truck is running or even immediately
after it's turned off but about 10" after the truck has been parked, a
steady flow of coolant starts running down the firewall...floor board and
out the passenger's side door. I unbolted the heater assembly and
couldn't see anything obvious or even any evidence of leaking with in the
heater itself...just a lot of dust. ? any ideas what may be causing the
leak of coolant ~ 10 minutes after the engine is turned off? Thanks in
advance for any ideas anyone might have.
Roberta in Tucson AZ w/1965 F-100 custom cab

_____________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 15:15:26 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - leak from heater

Date sent: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 11:40:09 -0700
Subject: FTE 61-79 - leak from heater
From: bertolina juno.com (NineteenSixtyFive F100)

> turned off but about 10" after the truck has been parked, a steady flow of
> coolant starts running down the firewall...floor board and out the
> passenger's side door.

Two possibilities without regard for the conditions you mention are the core
was damaged in the process of removing the old or installing the new hoses
due to using excessive force which moved the stems enough to crack the
seal in the core or the hose is pressed tighly enough against the firewall to
have a good seal there but leaks internally between the hose and stem due to
wrong size hose or insufficient clamping of the hose clamp. If you have A/C
and the water is not "necessarily" coolant you could have a plugged drain in
the A/C but this usually leaks all the time it's running not just after shutting it
off.

It sounds like you may have a very fine crack that is so temp sensitive that it
only leaks at a specifice temp range. Without examining the core it would be
hard to say and with out taking it out and pressure testing it you may never
find it.

Greed is the Creed of the Breed
that did away with the Steed
Visteon, Delphi..........:-(

- -- Gary --
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Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 17:33:54 -0400
From: "Desanto, Phillip"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Plastic Chrome Plating ?

I just last week had the Plastic Speedometer and gauge bezels re-plated
for my 63 Galaxie. These guys did a real nice job and were fast and
reasonable. D&D Plastic Chrome Plating 4534 S.Detroit Ave. Toledo, Ohio.
43614 419-389-1748, Fax- 419-385-5628 (Jim & Marty Price)
I'm not associated with them at all; just
satisfied.>>>>>>>Phil
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Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 14:50:50 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bolt Torque Spec

Need the Factory Torque Spec. for the body mount bolts for my 79 Bronco.
Thanks to any and all:-)
CS

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Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 18:44:00 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 9" axle questions

Does anybody know if the 67-72 9" axles are the same size as a
73-79 9"??????
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Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 19:25:50 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 9" question add on

I should have said are the internal Axle shafts the same size from
67-72 and 73-79?????
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Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 18:29:20 -0600
From: "Michael White"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Looking for article on FE Head Plug/oil

- -----Original Message-----
From: joe
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, August 08, 1998 7:49 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Looking for article on FE Head Plug/oil


>I am looking for the article of the FE heads to plug the oil passages to
>keep
>more oil on the bottom end..if you have this please email me a copy
>Thanks
>Joe
>

Hmmm.... now I'm getting confused. When I rebuilt my 390, I used a high flow
oil pump in an effort to get more oil to the top of the engine. It seems
like the new gasket set blocked water passages from the heads to the intake
manifold in order to get a better path, but I've never heard of blocking oil
passages. Can anyone provide info on this?

BTW: Can someone define the differences between high flow, high pressure,....


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