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61-79-list-digest Tuesday, July 28 1998 Volume 02 : Number 386 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo  ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: FTE 61-79 - 410 FE Re: FTE 61-79 - Changing rear main seal Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M died, 460 sources/balancing FTE 61-79 - Removing Molding Clips FTE 61-79 - RE:351C Re: FTE 61-79 -Another Really useful lightstand for working on old Ford Trucks Re: FTE 61-79 - Electric lines to garage - for working on old Ford Trucks Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M died, 460 sources/balancing FTE 61-79 - Access port for taillights on a '69? FTE 61-79 - Access ports for taillights on a '69? FTE 61-79 - Dead "M" FTE 61-79 - Re:410FE FTE 61-79 - Re: 351M died, 460 sources... FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Clarification FTE 61-79 - COLOR OF MASTER CYLINDER FTE 61-79 - RE: Garage Electricity Re: FTE 61-79 - Dead "M" FTE 61-79 - More info on the garage FTE 61-79 - Garage Electricity, Caps, Tires FTE 61-79 - How to remove rear main cap??? FTE 61-79 - 77-78 linkage clutch, to play or not to play FTE 61-79 - He's Back Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 351M died, 460 sources... FTE 61-79 - CHROME PLATING ON PLASTIC PARTS FTE 61-79 - ELECTRIC COOLING FANS HOOKUP FTE 61-79 - Found so time to get .... Re: FTE 61-79 - Dead "M" Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C Re: FTE 61-79 - Access ports for taillights on a '69? Re: FTE 61-79 - ELECTRIC COOLING FANS HOOKUP Re: FTE 61-79 - ELECTRIC COOLING FANS HOOKUP ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:08:14 -0700 From: Marko Maryniak Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 410 FE At 10:45 PM 25/07/98 -0500, you wrote: >I know a guy who has a 410 FE built from a 360 block, '65 390 (big ports >square chamber) heads and a 268H cam, 9.5 to 1 compression and stock >4bbl iron intake built 20,000 miles ago. Runs very well in a '68 >Country Squire. It's quiet and doesn't have any blow-by. I can get it >for $700, but it's with an automatic trans. > >Will my 390 stick flywheel work? Or will I have to get another one? >I've always read that the 410 uses a special balancer and flywheel(from >a 428).If I have to spend $300 for a flywheel I'd probably better stick >with mine and save for a rebuild. > Bill: Here's the answer: The 410 uses a zero-balanced harmonic damper, and a detroit-balanced (counterweighted) flywheel. This is not quite the same as the 428 which also has a counterweighted damper. This is due to higher piston weight in the 428. If the 410 doesn't have any vibrations now, then you shud, as Azie sez, take your truck flywheel down to your trusty machine shop. They will drill it so that it's weighted the same as the auto flexplate. Good luck! marko == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:15:33 -0700 From: Marko Maryniak Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Changing rear main seal At 12:50 PM 27/07/98 -0400, you wrote: >Tom H writes: >> Have you or anyone else heard of or used >this tool? Does it work worth spit? > >Secondly, instead of using a punch to push the seal out would a wooden >dowel work instead? It might pose less risk of damaging the rear main >journal. > >Never used one - actually never heard of one, but sounds like a very good >idea. > >Wooden dowel would work as well as metal, provided it is stable enough to >push/tap on without splintering. > >Azie >Ardmore, Al. > Go to your local machine shop and get some soft aluminum dowel of about, uh what would it be? A quarter, three-eighths of an inch or so? Then use that to push out the seal. If you could get aluminum square stock it'd work even better. The aluminum will bend, and it won't hurt the cast of the block nor the steel on the crank, I wouldn't think. Azie? What does the voice of experience say? marko == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 16:18:22 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M died, 460 sources/balancing From: luxjo thecore.com Date sent: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 15:18:24 -0400 Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M died, 460 sources/balancing > Any thoughts on slapping a cam in my motor? I was thinking of dropping > pan and see how many parts I can find. Maybe the distr/cam teeth just fell > in the pan?? Motor still cranks well enough to move bronc and 5000 lbs of > boat to the side of road without actually running :-). OX, I think you lost an oil pump which stopped the distributor which ate the cam gear. You probably have a scored crank as well so a replacement engine of the same type would be a good choice and can be had for about your price but a 400 would probably not cost any more so it's possible you could get a rebuilt 400 and pop it in but if you have time you might want to pull the pan, take a look at the crank and then make a decision. If it's not scored you may be able to slip in a new cam, clean up the block and heads to remove any debris and run it another 7 years. It's worth a try but be careful not to damage the bearing surfaces of either the bearings or the crank in the process of inspecting. The bearings can be damaged with your thumb nail. 78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's 78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's 78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! 9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo! - -- Gary -- == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:19:29 -0700 From: Marko Maryniak Subject: FTE 61-79 - Removing Molding Clips >That's nice, but what about the mounting blocks and clips for the molding? >Do they come with? And will you have those separately? Molding I got.....I >just want to be sure to have extra mounts in case any get roached taking >them off and back on for a repaint. > >J. Elliott > Randy (the 25 year mustang restorer) showed me how to get the clips off properly: Get a 1" wood chisel, and slip it under the plastic (betw. plastic and body), then firmly whack with hammer. Aluminum rivet will cut and plastic will be saved. Worked perfectly for me, I didn't break one of them. Don't try to drill out the rivets cause you will melt the plastic as soon as the rivet starts spinning (and it will, believe me). Two small taps with a body hammer and a dolly and any deformed holes will be back into shape in no time. marko == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:31:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Dan Lee Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:351C >If that's a 351C-4V and the heads are OK, then it's worth every penny >of $300.00. >The 351C-4V is a great Muscle Car Engine, not the best for a truck. >Unless you are interested in building a Street Rod. I have one in my >'53 F100 with a C6. I would love to put one in a '53 Coupe. It's a >great alternative to a C*. If it's a 2V Cleveland, don't bother unless >you want the truck for parts. > > And why is that? The 2V Cleveland is a much more "streetable" engine >than >the 4V. I've had two 2V 351 Cs, one in a car, the other in my '62 >truck, >and would love to have another one... The 2V Cleveland is a good engine, but I wouldn't pay $300.00 to get one thats used. Dan Lee 351C-4V _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:28:26 -0700 From: Marko Maryniak Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 -Another Really useful lightstand for working on old Ford Trucks At 11:21 AM 27/07/98 -0700, you wrote: >I have a really useful light stand that I bought at an auction. It was >shop-built by some mechanic who used his brain and skills to solve the >problems we all have encountered with getting light where it is needed. > >This stand has one of those cantilever/spring arm desk lamps (with >funnel-shaped reflector) mounted 40" high on a pipe mast welded to a >caster base from an old office chair. The wiring runs inside the pipe >and he thoughtfully welded a duplex box on the side of the pipe to plug >a trouble light into. He even provided a couple of "L" shaped brackets >to wind the long cords onto. This is the greatest combination for >working under the hood of an old Ford Truck I've ever seen. It's been >getting a lot of use in my garage lately. > Another super useful lightstand is the little one you can get from eastwood (or probly somewhere else too!!) that has the magnetic base; I use it EVERYWHERE. marko in vancouver marko dsm.ca == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:43:23 -0700 From: sdelanty sonic.net Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Electric lines to garage - for working on old Ford Trucks Gary writes: >I don't have the charts in front of me but for 300' and 100 amps or so with >minimal losses I would venture you would have to go to #0 copper, even #2 >would be choking at that distance I should think. Now that's a substantial >investment but even if it cost $700 for the wire, how long would it take to >acrue that much in additional electrical charges at the higher rate? I would >venture to guess in my case the cost would be amortized within a few years >and then I'm running free wire to the barn. Just something to think about. I've got the charts in front of me... For a 300' run You've got a total current path of 600'. Heres the numbers I came up with. (based on NEC resistance charts for copper wire at 75 degrees C) First column is resistance per thousand feet, second column is resistance for 600' of wire, third column is voltage drop at 50 amps. For 100 amps, double the voltage drop numbers: Ohms/Kfoot Ohms per 600' Voltage drop at 50 amps #8 = 0.764 0.4584 22.92v #6 = 0.491 0.2946 14.73v #4 = 0.308 0.1848 9.24v #2 = 0.194 0.1164 5.82v #1 = 0.154 0.0924 4.62v 1/0= 0.122 0.0736 3.66v 2/0= 0.0967 0.05802 2.901v 4/0= 0.0608 0.03648 1.824v >An electrician told me amperage depends on ability of the wire to shed heat >so above ground wires can be smaller. So theoretically I should be able to >run a million amps through a phone wire if I pack it in dry ice right? Give me >a break........:-) Well, that example is a little extreme, but yes maxamum allowable amperage is greater for wires in free air than for wires in conduit. NEC allows #4 thhn wire to be run at not more than *95 amps* in conduit (not more than 3 wires in a conduit, or direct earth burial) or up to *140 amps* in free air... Note that this does not significantly affect the voltage drop that occurs across the wire, only the max allowable current that can be run before the wire is considered to be too hot. Steve Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 16:58:32 -0400 From: luxjo thecore.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M died, 460 sources/balancing Gary, 78 BBB wrote: > > Any thoughts on slapping a cam in my motor? I was thinking of dropping > > pan and see how many parts I can find. Maybe the distr/cam teeth just fell > > in the pan?? Motor still cranks well enough to move bronc and 5000 lbs of > > boat to the side of road without actually running :-). > > OX, I think you lost an oil pump which stopped the distributor which ate the > cam gear. I hope not, it was a brand new melling HV with maybe 70 miles in it. Just put it in 2 weeks ago. I almost think the added stress of the new oil pump (oil pressure was almost 90 PSI when engine was cold) and new timing chain (may have been contributing) are what caused the failure. > You probably have a scored crank as well so a replacement > engine of the same type would be a good choice and can be had for about > your price but a 400 would probably not cost any more so it's possible you > could get a rebuilt 400 and pop it in but if you have time you might want to > pull the pan, take a look at the crank and then make a decision. Got plenty of time and rear main seal was leakin like crazy anyway. >If it's not > scored you may be able to slip in a new cam, clean up the block and heads > to remove any debris and run it another 7 years. I guess my question is do you think cam bearings with 150K are good enough to pop in a new cam. It's worth a try but be > careful not to damage the bearing surfaces of either the bearings or the crank > in the process of inspecting. The bearings can be damaged with your thumb > nail. > I think I just going to drop pan and see whats up. As always, thanks for the info. OX == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 15:52:47 -0500 From: "J Elliott" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Access port for taillights on a '69? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 15:59:26 -0500 From: "J Elliott" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Access ports for taillights on a '69? Okay, being new to these trucks, I have a question. The other day, when backing up, looking out the rear window, I realized I could see the glow of the brake lights thru a hole in the rear stake cavity. Upon examination, I noted that there is what appears to be a factory fabricated opening on both sides, near the top of the rear stake housing when looking inside the bed, right under the rail. They both have a hole below it, that makes it look like a plate is supposed to close this off, with a retaining screw in the hole, sort of like the piece that closes the front cab mount housing, but upside down. I checked a 1970, and it has the same opening, and on both my '69 and it, it appears to screw has ever been used in that hole. It seems a little queer to me to fabricate this opening and not do anything with it.....so, what is it for? was it used for something on some models and not on others? did Ford finally think "why bother to close the hole when the taillight housing is exposedt to elements via the stake opening?" Sort of curious about it........ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 17:05:33 -0400 From: am14 chrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dead "M" OX writes: >>Any thoughts on slapping a cam in my motor? I was thinking of dropping pan and see how many parts I can find. Maybe the distr/cam teeth just fell in the pan?? Motor still cranks well enough to move bronc and 5000 lbs of boat to the side of road without actually running :-). If I didn't put any more miles on it than you say you do yours, I'd risk putting a cam in it and a distributor and try it again. This can be done in some models with the engine in the vehicle. Does it have A/C??? If not, I believe you can remove the radiator and the water pump - front cover - - timing gear/chain assy and pull the cam out the front.(after you remove the distributor, of course) I've done it on certain engines/vehicles but I'm certainly no expert on either the Bronco or the M series engines. Someone on this list should be able to tell you if this can be done. Where are you M block devotee???? Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 16:10:41 -0500 From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger) Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:410FE > > Take the Auto flywheel off the 410 and get you a 360/390 standard shift > flywheel and take the two of them to your local machine/speed shop that > does balancing and tell them to balance the Std flywheel to the Auto > flywheel. It will work. The 410/428 has a large weight on it in one area. > I've seen them "cast" in the standard shift type and welded on the > Automatic type. I do not know if all of them are this way or not, but they > are externally balanced whereas all other FE's are internally balanced and > my suggestion above works. I've done it with absolutely no vibration > afterward. That sounds like a great idea, I plan to look into seeing if anyone around here does it. I priced a kit and machine work to rebuild mine. I can get a kit with Silv-O-Lite cast pistons and everything else to rebuild it. A Crane towing cam, new valve springs,lifters and push-rods. Fel-Pro blue gasket set. Complete rebuild on the heads with new guides and valves, with hardened valve seats. All of the macine work including cutting the crank. All for $1150. All I have to do is dissassemble-reassemble it. Doesn't sound too bad, does it? - -- Come on over to my Back Porch http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr Ballinger ballingr ldd.net == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 17:31:21 -0400 From: William King Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 351M died, 460 sources... OX, Sorry to hear about your bronc. A couple words of warning on the 1969 460. First, I didn't think the 460 came out until 1970. I'm sure sleddog will set me straight if I'm wrong, but you may be looking at a 429. Second, the 1968 and 1969 429s were not set up for manual trannys. First, the butt of the crank shaft is NOT machined to accept a pilot bushing. Second, the side of the block is NOT machined for the clutch equalizer bracket. I've heard that there is a Ford bracket adapter that will let you use a clutch equalizer bracket w/ the 68/69 429. I'll dig the PN out if you like. But the pilot bushing snafu is a pain. Good luck. Ohio Bill >Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 10:52:34 -0400 >From: luxjo thecore.com >Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351M died, 460 sources/balancing > >hey all > > Just got back from Vaca. Bronc crapped out on the way to shore house. >Had to be flat bedded home :-(. The distr/cam gears stripped leaving 3 >distr gear teeth and one cam gear tooth somewhere in the motor. I was >considering swapping the cam, but who knows where those gear teeth ended >up and 150K on the cam bearings is not all that appealling either. > > So, I was considering a 460. I know I need motor mounts, headers or >truck manifold. I was wondering if manual transmission flywheel is the >same from 351M to 460? Also, what year did the balance change from >internal to external (or was it the other way around)? My choices so far >are a 69 Lincoln continental, with 460, 82K orig miles for 600$, a 78 >lincoln town car, with 460, 177K mi. for 350$, or an 85, E350 van 460 >with 85K mi. (motor only) for 450$. > > I was also wondering what radiator is needed for 460? I have heard >that a true big block rad is actually taller than the radiator opening. >Not sure how that would help, but I've heard it exists. I have a the 3 >core, larger width rad, right now. > > > OX > > > OX >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > >------------------------------ 1968 Torino GT (429 4V 4speed) 1968 F100 (360 4V 4speed) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 18:30:21 -0400 From: Ken Payne Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Clarification Concerning my post about the Datsun postings..... Please don't get the idea that mentioning Datsuns is a bad thing. The original thread was about a solution using Datsun parts - that's fine. It just appeared that, in this case, the discussion was straying away from the original FTE related topic to one that was purely about Datsun Zs and the merits and/or finer points of its blower/ignition system. Forgive me if you think I was off-base with my post but please understand the intent of it. Now returning you to our regular program.... Ken Payne (aka List Cop :-> ) Admin == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 19:01:38 -0400 From: "Jerry" Subject: FTE 61-79 - COLOR OF MASTER CYLINDER Would anyone know what color and what finish the master cylinder should be on a 1973-76 F250 or 350 if you were trying to duplicate as closely as possible the original factory finish ? ? ? If you know that one, what color and finish for the power booster.......disc brakes if it matters ? ? ? Jerry 1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW 1970 F100 (ret) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 18:07:10 -0500 From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki) Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Garage Electricity [ vast amount of really technical electrician stuff deleted ] Hmmm, when I was in high school the guys and I just strung an extension cord through some trees... (It's a wonder we all survived.) I think Gary should invite the list over for a big party at his place. I wanna play with the lift (WoooHooo!). Speaking of toys (er... I mean, TOOLS) I'm considering a new cherry picker and engine stand from Harbor Freight. They want $200 for a 2-ton crane and $40 for a 1000lb stand (4 castors) (ad in August issue of Camaro Craft). Are they good people to do business with? Their prices seem WAY better than JC Whitney, and I have to act soon while SWMBO enjoys the new 31" TV I bought for her... ;-) Thanx! lordjanusz '94 F150 (300ci) '73 F100 (360ci [ to be rebuilt ]) '97 Saturn (SWMBO's) _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 20:39:30 -0400 From: luxjo thecore.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dead "M" am14 chrysler.com wrote: > If I didn't put any more miles on it than you say you do yours, I'd risk > putting a cam in it and a distributor and try it again. This can be done > in some models with the engine in the vehicle. Does it have A/C??? No, and it can be done (*from a space standpoint anyway). Removal of rad opens up huge hole for cam. If need be, I'd remove front end before removing engine :-) Should come off easy, it just went on 2 weeks ago. If > not, I believe you can remove the radiator and the water pump - front cover > - timing gear/chain assy and pull the cam out the front.(after you remove > the distributor, of course) I've done it on certain engines/vehicles but > I'm certainly no expert on either the Bronco or the M series engines. > Someone on this list should be able to tell you if this can be done. > > Where are you M block devotee???? Seems Gary was right. I tried rotating oil pump shaft with ratchet. It's frozen big time. This oil pump only has 70 miles on it. Oil pressure seemed fine (although high) when I left the house. I don't think it ran wihout oil pressure for more than a split second, as distr gears stripped immediately. It really annoys me that I put in a new part and it ruins my engine. :-( OX == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 18:53:03 -0600 From: "Michael White" Subject: FTE 61-79 - More info on the garage Thanks for the input guys, a good power supply + a strong door are great ideas. Unfortunatly a high ceiling with a lift would be asking far too much of "the owner" (would be nice though). After having a nightmare, I woke up and got dressed, grabbed my tape measure and went outside to take a look. The approx inside dimmensions of my new garage are going to 24' x 11' , which means I can't pull both rear axles at once (heh.... unless I put a removable fan+vent in just the right spot on the exterrior wall), and pulling an engine is going to be tough (or impossible?) with only 6 feet to work with. Michael 69 F250 360 auto 69 F250 390 T18 Posi 3.54 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 17:02:28 -0700 (PDT) From: John Pajak Subject: FTE 61-79 - Garage Electricity, Caps, Tires Thanks for all the help so far in my electrical project. Gary asked a few questions and here are the answers: - -The garage is about 150' from the house, but the actual wire length will probably be more like 200' counting bends, etc. - -The house is currently 200 AMP - -House has central AC, Dryer, water heater I plan on running lights, air compressor, MIG welder, and other tools like a table saw, etc. but not all at once! The tossup is: do I pay $860 for underground service to the garage from the pole at the street-200 AMP with separate meter, installed, or do I pay $150 for cable and trench it in myself and run 100 AMPs from the house? Oh well, back to Ford trucks. I have a factory Ford fiberglass cap from a 73-79. The attachment method is pure genius! It has J-hooks at each corner which hook down into holes which are in the side of each stake pocket in the bed. Topside there is a big rubber donut similar to body mount, a fender washer, and a nut. No extra holes in the truck needed! I also have an aluminum aftermarket cap and am thinking about drilling the corners so I can attach it with J-bolts.....it would sure beat the 4 C-clamps I've been using! (Cap flies off pickup truck on highway...film at 11!) Time for tires on the 75 F100. I have been running 30x9.50-15s but am thinking of using 31x10.50-15s. Will they fit OK on the front? My wheels are 15x7 wagon type. I used to have 15x8s but the offset was too deep and the back tires rubbed the fenders a bit when heavily loaded.....by heavy I mean 3000+ lbs! I wonder if the 10.50s will rub in the back? Experiences anyone? BTW I'm in digest mode so it takes me a while to catch up! == "2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2" John Pajak Lexington Park, Maryland Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 21:18:21 -0400 From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis Subject: FTE 61-79 - How to remove rear main cap??? Fellow Truck people, While attempting to remove the rear cap to get to the rear main seal i want to change I cannot get the cap to budge....It seems to have a cork gasket or something running on the sides of it??Is there a trick to remove I DO Not want to scratch the crank.....What am I doing wrong??? - -- Joe Aka. Fordguy 1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers Soon to be 390 FE powered! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 21:27:38 -0400 From: "John F. Bauer III" Subject: FTE 61-79 - 77-78 linkage clutch, to play or not to play Brief question that hopefully someone knows off the top of their head ... This is directly related to a '77-'78 E100 van, 300 I6, manual 4 speed with stock linkage clutch system, but someone with linkage clutch repair experience can probably direct me. The pin/rod that goes between the clutch fork and the U shaped bracket that bolts to the bellhousing (with those countersink torx screws/bolts) on my van has just broke. So, going to sit down and fabricate something out of 3/8" steel rod plus some nylon bushing like material I dug up at the local hardware store (Ford discontinued parts). Now, the real question, how much play in any direction unrelated to enguaging and disenguaging the throwout bearing should there be? Should I make this fork real tight so it can only go in/out as one would theoretically surmise or would a little play/slop up/down and left/right be a good thing? John == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 20:48:48 -0500 From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger) Subject: FTE 61-79 - He's Back > Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 04:03:37 -0700 > From: "Deacon" > Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Underhood heat HHHHEEEEE'SSSSS BAAAAAAACK....... Just when I'd gotten over my nervous tic.... Man I'll be glad when Varner gets back. - -- Come on over to my Back Porch http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr Ballinger ballingr ldd.net == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 20:18:56 -0600 From: "Michael White" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 351M died, 460 sources... - -----Original Message----- From: William King To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 3:43 PM Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 351M died, 460 sources... >the 1968 and 1969 429s >were not set up for manual trannys. First, the butt of the crank >shaft is NOT machined to accept a pilot bushing. Second, the side >of the block is NOT machined for the clutch equalizer bracket. >I've heard that there is a Ford bracket adapter that will let >you use a clutch equalizer bracket w/ the 68/69 429. I'll >dig the PN out if you like. But the pilot bushing snafu is a >pain. >Good luck. >Ohio Bill > > After reading this post, I checked the 429 that came from a 1968 T-bird. The crankshaft does have a spot machined for a pilot bushing, but there is no place to mount the clutch equalizer bracket. I think this engine is completely original, but I could be wrong. Here are the numbers from the intake C8SE-9425-B The autolite carb reads as follows C9LF A A 9C 4 The heads read as follows C8VE E Are these numbers consistant with a 1968 T-bird 429? I was thinking of selling this "working engine". What would be a fair price? Michael Salt Lake City, Utah 69 F250 360 auto 69 F250 CS 390 T18 Posi 3.54 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 22:30:34 -0400 From: "Jerry" Subject: FTE 61-79 - CHROME PLATING ON PLASTIC PARTS I seem to remember a very long time ago reading something about the bright metal chrome plating on plastic dash parts , but I guess I wasn't interested enough in it at the time to remember any of it. Is there a way to re-new this plating ? Has anyone found a company that will put on a new coating ? I thought for sure Eastwood would have something but their catalog doesn't show it. If there is no replating, is there anything else one could do to make it shiny again ?? Jerry 1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW 1970 F100 (ret) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 22:53:06 -0400 From: "Jerry" Subject: FTE 61-79 - ELECTRIC COOLING FANS HOOKUP I certainly hope Steve is reading tonite because I just know he will know how to do this. When you hook up electric fans, many of you have run them off BOTH manual switches and thermostatic switches. My questions are: 1. How do you wire up the thermostatic switch so it turns on either the fan motor directly or the relay which activates 12V to the motor or however you got it hooked up 2. What type of thermostatic switch...screw in block type like sending unit or surface-mount type like ??? Jerry 1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW 1970 F100 (ret) == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 22:13:45 -0500 From: "Brett McCoy" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Found so time to get .... Hello all, I finally found some time to get greasy today. Have been painting the house, real bummer, don't think the previous owner did it for about 25 years!! Anyway I finally said enough is enough I got to do some maint on the truck. So, picked up the oil seal for the rear end that I needed and started working on the passenger side leak that has been staining the driveway for several weeks. When I got into it I found that the lock/keeper washer had it's key way tab broken off. Wow was I glad that I had not been driving it much. So ran up to the dealer and bought three just to have them on hand. Buttoned it up and it looks good so far. Also finally did the oil change I needed. Wow, that flip the tab oil drain-plug is great. No fuss and no muss, if you get the drain pan in the right place the first time ( Now for a question, when I went to get the oil seal I stopped at the Big-A auto shop down the street for the first time. Low and behold they have a complete machine shop in the back! Do any of you know if this is normal or not for a Big-A auto store? Got any ideas on how to find out if they do good work? I was thinking about pulling the head off my 460 to take care of the slow oil leaks and figured I may take them in and have them cleaned and vac tested. See if they need a build. Question is how do I know if they really need a build or if they just want my money? Any Help would be great. The store is located in White Bear Lake, MN if any of the MN crowd has some thoughts. See Ya, - -B == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 21:16:28 -0700 From: Pat Brown Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dead "M" OX wrote: > Seems Gary was right. I tried rotating oil pump shaft with ratchet. > It's frozen big time. This oil pump only has 70 miles on it. Oil > pressure seemed fine (although high) when I left the house. I don't > think it ran wihout oil pressure for more than a split second, as distr > gears stripped immediately. As I recall, this possibilty came up in a previous life of this thread. Someone recommended that the oil pickup tube be replaced when working on the bottom end/oil pump of hi-mileage engines, as often a chunk of 'stuff' can come off, lodging in the pump. (Geeze, you'd think this was a heart attack support list! ). > It really annoys me that I put in a new part and it ruins my engine. > :-( Ouch. I hate that. Especially when you have to do something twice :-( Pat Brown Sebastopol, California == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 00:29:36 EDT From: GMPACHECO aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C Well after all the talk, I bot the truck with the engine 351C 2V, I'll take the power brakes, intermitant wipers and see what else is to be had. Tomorrow I pick it up, hummm don't think a 76 F-100 had front disc brakes.. So what else do I need off this truck? Guess I'll keep the C6 or sell it, ended up paying $150 for the whole sheebang. Mike in Seattle and hotter than heck == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 21:38:17 -0700 From: Pat Brown Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Access ports for taillights on a '69? J Elliott wrote: [Tail light / Stake post access holes described] > I checked a 1970, and it has the same opening, and on both my '69 and > it, it appears to screw has ever been used in that hole. It seems a little > queer to me to fabricate this opening and not do anything with it.....so, > what is it for? was it used for something on some models and not on others? > did Ford finally think "why bother to close the hole when the taillight > housing is exposedt to elements via the stake opening?" Sort of curious > about it........ My '68 F-100 had covers, as does my '70 F-250. Someone 'borrowed' yours. The screw is a plain sheet metal screw, it doesn't leave much evidence, except on the cover itself. I'll let someone else speculate as to what the holes are for. Pat Brown Sebastopol, California == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 22:12:24 -0700 From: sdelanty sonic.net Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ELECTRIC COOLING FANS HOOKUP > I certainly hope Steve is reading tonite because I just know he will know >how to do this. Hmmm? Yeah, I'm here... weighing a bunch of stuff to take packpacking, trying to decide what to throw out to get my load under 50 lbs... )-: > 1. How do you wire up the thermostatic switch so it turns on either the >fan motor directly or the relay which activates 12V to the motor or however >you got it hooked up > > 2. What type of thermostatic switch...screw in block type like sending >unit or surface-mount type like ??? > >Jerry Lets start with #2. My thermo switch is an adjustable bulb type switch. It's got a copper bulb about 2"L x 1/4"D connected to the switch with a thin copper tube. The bulb lives inside the upper rad hose. There's a piece of rubber pad that wraps around the upper rad neck, the copper tube lays across the pad and the rad hose shoves on over it so the bulb is inside the hose and the tube snakes out between the rubber pad and the hose. NOT a very deluxe setup, but that's how the instructions said to do it, and it doesn't leak (yet)... Someday I'll solder a closed ended thermwell into the upper rad tank to accept the bulb, but it's kinda low on my to-do list right now.. Question #1. A schematic is worth a bunch of words, so go here to see how mine is wired. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/show-n-tell/fanelect.jpg Mine is wired direcly to +12v from the battery, so the fans can keep running even with the engine off if the coolant temp is still high enough to trip the therm switch (about 200F) Steve Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 23:23:58 +0000 From: Don Grossman Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ELECTRIC COOLING FANS HOOKUP Jerry wrote: > I certainly hope Steve is reading tonite because I just know he will know > how to do this. > When you hook up electric fans, many of you have run them off BOTH manual > switches and thermostatic switches. > My questions are: > 1. How do you wire up the thermostatic switch so it turns on either the > fan motor directly or the relay which activates 12V to the motor or however > you got it hooked up > > 2. What type of thermostatic switch...screw in block type like sending > unit or surface-mount type like ??? > > Jerry > 1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW > 1970 F100 (ret) Steve will have the better explanation of how to hook it all up. We both used the same.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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