61-79-list-digest Tuesday, July 28 1998 Volume 02 : Number 386



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - 410 FE
Re: FTE 61-79 - Changing rear main seal
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M died, 460 sources/balancing
FTE 61-79 - Removing Molding Clips
FTE 61-79 - RE:351C
Re: FTE 61-79 -Another Really useful lightstand for working on old Ford Trucks
Re: FTE 61-79 - Electric lines to garage - for working on old Ford Trucks
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M died, 460 sources/balancing
FTE 61-79 - Access port for taillights on a '69?
FTE 61-79 - Access ports for taillights on a '69?
FTE 61-79 - Dead "M"
FTE 61-79 - Re:410FE
FTE 61-79 - Re: 351M died, 460 sources...
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Clarification
FTE 61-79 - COLOR OF MASTER CYLINDER
FTE 61-79 - RE: Garage Electricity
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dead "M"
FTE 61-79 - More info on the garage
FTE 61-79 - Garage Electricity, Caps, Tires
FTE 61-79 - How to remove rear main cap???
FTE 61-79 - 77-78 linkage clutch, to play or not to play
FTE 61-79 - He's Back
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 351M died, 460 sources...
FTE 61-79 - CHROME PLATING ON PLASTIC PARTS
FTE 61-79 - ELECTRIC COOLING FANS HOOKUP
FTE 61-79 - Found so time to get ....
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dead "M"
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C
Re: FTE 61-79 - Access ports for taillights on a '69?
Re: FTE 61-79 - ELECTRIC COOLING FANS HOOKUP
Re: FTE 61-79 - ELECTRIC COOLING FANS HOOKUP

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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:08:14 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 410 FE

At 10:45 PM 25/07/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I know a guy who has a 410 FE built from a 360 block, '65 390 (big ports
>square chamber) heads and a 268H cam, 9.5 to 1 compression and stock
>4bbl iron intake built 20,000 miles ago. Runs very well in a '68
>Country Squire. It's quiet and doesn't have any blow-by. I can get it
>for $700, but it's with an automatic trans.
>
>Will my 390 stick flywheel work? Or will I have to get another one?
>I've always read that the 410 uses a special balancer and flywheel(from
>a 428).If I have to spend $300 for a flywheel I'd probably better stick
>with mine and save for a rebuild.
>
Bill:

Here's the answer:

The 410 uses a zero-balanced harmonic damper, and a detroit-balanced
(counterweighted) flywheel. This is not quite the same as the 428 which
also has a counterweighted damper. This is due to higher piston weight in
the 428.

If the 410 doesn't have any vibrations now, then you shud, as Azie sez,
take your truck flywheel down to your trusty machine shop. They will drill
it so that it's weighted the same as the auto flexplate.

Good luck!

marko

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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:15:33 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Changing rear main seal

At 12:50 PM 27/07/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Tom H writes: >> Have you or anyone else heard of or used
>this tool? Does it work worth spit?
>
>Secondly, instead of using a punch to push the seal out would a wooden
>dowel work instead? It might pose less risk of damaging the rear main
>journal.
>
>Never used one - actually never heard of one, but sounds like a very good
>idea.
>
>Wooden dowel would work as well as metal, provided it is stable enough to
>push/tap on without splintering.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>

Go to your local machine shop and get some soft aluminum dowel of about, uh
what would it be? A quarter, three-eighths of an inch or so?

Then use that to push out the seal. If you could get aluminum square stock
it'd work even better. The aluminum will bend, and it won't hurt the cast
of the block nor the steel on the crank, I wouldn't think.

Azie? What does the voice of experience say?


marko

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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 16:18:22 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M died, 460 sources/balancing

From: luxjo thecore.com
Date sent: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 15:18:24 -0400
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M died, 460 sources/balancing

> Any thoughts on slapping a cam in my motor? I was thinking of dropping
> pan and see how many parts I can find. Maybe the distr/cam teeth just fell
> in the pan?? Motor still cranks well enough to move bronc and 5000 lbs of
> boat to the side of road without actually running :-).

OX, I think you lost an oil pump which stopped the distributor which ate the
cam gear. You probably have a scored crank as well so a replacement
engine of the same type would be a good choice and can be had for about
your price but a 400 would probably not cost any more so it's possible you
could get a rebuilt 400 and pop it in but if you have time you might want to
pull the pan, take a look at the crank and then make a decision. If it's not
scored you may be able to slip in a new cam, clean up the block and heads
to remove any debris and run it another 7 years. It's worth a try but be
careful not to damage the bearing surfaces of either the bearings or the crank
in the process of inspecting. The bearings can be damaged with your thumb
nail.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 LIncoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hoooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:19:29 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Removing Molding Clips

>That's nice, but what about the mounting blocks and clips for the molding?
>Do they come with? And will you have those separately? Molding I got.....I
>just want to be sure to have extra mounts in case any get roached taking
>them off and back on for a repaint.
>
>J. Elliott
>

Randy (the 25 year mustang restorer) showed me how to get the clips off
properly: Get a 1" wood chisel, and slip it under the plastic (betw.
plastic and body), then firmly whack with hammer.

Aluminum rivet will cut and plastic will be saved. Worked perfectly for
me, I didn't break one of them.

Don't try to drill out the rivets cause you will melt the plastic as soon
as the rivet starts spinning (and it will, believe me).

Two small taps with a body hammer and a dolly and any deformed holes will
be back into shape in no time.


marko

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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:31:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:351C

>If that's a 351C-4V and the heads are OK, then it's worth every penny
>of $300.00.
>The 351C-4V is a great Muscle Car Engine, not
the best for a truck.
>Unless you are interested in building a Street
Rod. I have one in my
>'53 F100 with a C6. I would love to put one in
a '53 Coupe. It's a
>great alternative to a C*. If it's a 2V
Cleveland, don't bother unless
>you want the truck for parts.
>

> And why is that? The 2V Cleveland is a much
more "streetable" engine
>than
>the 4V. I've had two 2V 351 Cs, one in a car,
the other in my '62
>truck,
>and would love to have another one...


The 2V Cleveland is a good engine, but I wouldn't pay $300.00 to get
one thats used.

Dan Lee
351C-4V
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:28:26 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 -Another Really useful lightstand for working on old Ford Trucks

At 11:21 AM 27/07/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I have a really useful light stand that I bought at an auction. It was
>shop-built by some mechanic who used his brain and skills to solve the
>problems we all have encountered with getting light where it is needed.
>
>This stand has one of those cantilever/spring arm desk lamps (with
>funnel-shaped reflector) mounted 40" high on a pipe mast welded to a
>caster base from an old office chair. The wiring runs inside the pipe
>and he thoughtfully welded a duplex box on the side of the pipe to plug
>a trouble light into. He even provided a couple of "L" shaped brackets
>to wind the long cords onto. This is the greatest combination for
>working under the hood of an old Ford Truck I've ever seen. It's been
>getting a lot of use in my garage lately.
>
Another super useful lightstand is the little one you can get from eastwood
(or probly somewhere else too!!) that has the magnetic base; I use it
EVERYWHERE.


marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:43:23 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Electric lines to garage - for working on old Ford Trucks

Gary writes:

>I don't have the charts in front of me but for 300' and 100 amps or so with
>minimal losses I would venture you would have to go to #0 copper, even #2
>would be choking at that distance I should think. Now that's a substantial
>investment but even if it cost $700 for the wire, how long would it take to
>acrue that much in additional electrical charges at the higher rate? I would
>venture to guess in my case the cost would be amortized within a few years
>and then I'm running free wire to the barn. Just something to think about.

I've got the charts in front of me...

For a 300' run You've got a total current path of 600'.
Heres the numbers I came up with. (based on NEC resistance charts for
copper wire at 75 degrees C)
First column is resistance per thousand feet, second column is
resistance for 600' of wire, third column is voltage drop at 50 amps.
For 100 amps, double the voltage drop numbers:

Ohms/Kfoot Ohms per 600' Voltage drop at 50 amps
#8 = 0.764 0.4584 22.92v
#6 = 0.491 0.2946 14.73v
#4 = 0.308 0.1848 9.24v
#2 = 0.194 0.1164 5.82v
#1 = 0.154 0.0924 4.62v
1/0= 0.122 0.0736 3.66v
2/0= 0.0967 0.05802 2.901v
4/0= 0.0608 0.03648 1.824v

>An electrician told me amperage depends on ability of the wire to shed heat
>so above ground wires can be smaller. So theoretically I should be able to
>run a million amps through a phone wire if I pack it in dry ice right?
Give me
>a break........:-)

Well, that example is a little extreme, but yes maxamum allowable
amperage is greater for wires in free air than for wires in conduit.

NEC allows #4 thhn wire to be run at not more than *95 amps* in conduit
(not more than 3 wires in a conduit, or direct earth burial) or up to
*140 amps* in free air...
Note that this does not significantly affect the voltage drop that occurs
across the wire, only the max allowable current that can be run before
the wire is considered to be too hot.

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 16:58:32 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351M died, 460 sources/balancing

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:

> > Any thoughts on slapping a cam in my motor? I was thinking of dropping
> > pan and see how many parts I can find. Maybe the distr/cam teeth just fell
> > in the pan?? Motor still cranks well enough to move bronc and 5000 lbs of
> > boat to the side of road without actually running :-).
>
> OX, I think you lost an oil pump which stopped the distributor which ate the
> cam gear.

I hope not, it was a brand new melling HV with maybe 70 miles in it.
Just put it in 2 weeks ago. I almost think the added stress of the new
oil pump (oil pressure was almost 90 PSI when engine was cold) and new
timing chain (may have been contributing) are what caused the failure.

> You probably have a scored crank as well so a replacement
> engine of the same type would be a good choice and can be had for about
> your price but a 400 would probably not cost any more so it's possible you
> could get a rebuilt 400 and pop it in but if you have time you might want to
> pull the pan, take a look at the crank and then make a decision.

Got plenty of time and rear main seal was leakin like crazy anyway.

>If it's not
> scored you may be able to slip in a new cam, clean up the block and heads
> to remove any debris and run it another 7 years.

I guess my question is do you think cam bearings with 150K are good
enough to pop in a new cam.

It's worth a try but be
> careful not to damage the bearing surfaces of either the bearings or the crank
> in the process of inspecting. The bearings can be damaged with your thumb
> nail.
>

I think I just going to drop pan and see whats up. As always, thanks
for the info.

OX
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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 15:52:47 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Access port for taillights on a '69?

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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 15:59:26 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Access ports for taillights on a '69?

Okay, being new to these trucks, I have a question. The other day, when
backing up, looking out the rear window, I realized I could see the glow of
the brake lights thru a hole in the rear stake cavity.
Upon examination, I noted that there is what appears to be a factory
fabricated opening on both sides, near the top of the rear stake housing
when looking inside the bed, right under the rail. They both have a hole
below it, that makes it look like a plate is supposed to close this off,
with a retaining screw in the hole, sort of like the piece that closes the
front cab mount housing, but upside down.
I checked a 1970, and it has the same opening, and on both my '69 and
it, it appears to screw has ever been used in that hole. It seems a little
queer to me to fabricate this opening and not do anything with it.....so,
what is it for? was it used for something on some models and not on others?
did Ford finally think "why bother to close the hole when the taillight
housing is exposedt to elements via the stake opening?" Sort of curious
about it........



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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 17:05:33 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dead "M"

OX writes: >>Any thoughts on slapping a cam in my motor? I was thinking of
dropping pan and see how many parts I can find. Maybe the distr/cam teeth
just fell in the pan?? Motor still cranks well enough to move bronc and
5000 lbs of boat to the side of road without actually running :-).

If I didn't put any more miles on it than you say you do yours, I'd risk
putting a cam in it and a distributor and try it again. This can be done
in some models with the engine in the vehicle. Does it have A/C??? If
not, I believe you can remove the radiator and the water pump - front cover
- - timing gear/chain assy and pull the cam out the front.(after you remove
the distributor, of course) I've done it on certain engines/vehicles but
I'm certainly no expert on either the Bronco or the M series engines.
Someone on this list should be able to tell you if this can be done.

Where are you M block devotee????

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 16:10:41 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:410FE

>
> Take the Auto flywheel off the 410 and get you a 360/390 standard shift
> flywheel and take the two of them to your local machine/speed shop that
> does balancing and tell them to balance the Std flywheel to the Auto
> flywheel. It will work. The 410/428 has a large weight on it in one area.
> I've seen them "cast" in the standard shift type and welded on the
> Automatic type. I do not know if all of them are this way or not, but they
> are externally balanced whereas all other FE's are internally balanced and
> my suggestion above works. I've done it with absolutely no vibration
> afterward.

That sounds like a great idea, I plan to look into seeing if anyone
around here does it. I priced a kit and machine work to rebuild mine. I
can get a kit with Silv-O-Lite cast pistons and everything else to
rebuild it. A Crane towing cam, new valve springs,lifters and
push-rods. Fel-Pro blue gasket set. Complete rebuild on the heads with
new guides and valves, with hardened valve seats. All of the macine
work including cutting the crank. All for $1150. All I have to do is
dissassemble-reassemble it. Doesn't sound too bad, does it?
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 17:31:21 -0400
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 351M died, 460 sources...

OX,
Sorry to hear about your bronc. A couple words of warning on
the 1969 460. First, I didn't think the 460 came out until
1970. I'm sure sleddog will set me straight if I'm wrong, but
you may be looking at a 429. Second, the 1968 and 1969 429s
were not set up for manual trannys. First, the butt of the crank
shaft is NOT machined to accept a pilot bushing. Second, the side
of the block is NOT machined for the clutch equalizer bracket.
I've heard that there is a Ford bracket adapter that will let
you use a clutch equalizer bracket w/ the 68/69 429. I'll
dig the PN out if you like. But the pilot bushing snafu is a
pain.
Good luck.
Ohio Bill



>Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 10:52:34 -0400
>From: luxjo thecore.com
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - 351M died, 460 sources/balancing
>
>hey all
>
> Just got back from Vaca. Bronc crapped out on the way to shore house.
>Had to be flat bedded home :-(. The distr/cam gears stripped leaving 3
>distr gear teeth and one cam gear tooth somewhere in the motor. I was
>considering swapping the cam, but who knows where those gear teeth ended
>up and 150K on the cam bearings is not all that appealling either.
>
> So, I was considering a 460. I know I need motor mounts, headers or
>truck manifold. I was wondering if manual transmission flywheel is the
>same from 351M to 460? Also, what year did the balance change from
>internal to external (or was it the other way around)? My choices so far
>are a 69 Lincoln continental, with 460, 82K orig miles for 600$, a 78
>lincoln town car, with 460, 177K mi. for 350$, or an 85, E350 van 460
>with 85K mi. (motor only) for 450$.
>
> I was also wondering what radiator is needed for 460? I have heard
>that a true big block rad is actually taller than the radiator opening.
>Not sure how that would help, but I've heard it exists. I have a the 3
>core, larger width rad, right now.
>
>
> OX
>
>
> OX
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>
>------------------------------

1968 Torino GT (429 4V 4speed)
1968 F100 (360 4V 4speed)
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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 18:30:21 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Clarification

Concerning my post about the Datsun postings.....
Please don't get the idea that mentioning Datsuns is
a bad thing. The original thread was about a solution
using Datsun parts - that's fine. It just appeared
that, in this case, the discussion was straying away
from the original FTE related topic to one that was
purely about Datsun Zs and the merits and/or finer
points of its blower/ignition system. Forgive me if
you think I was off-base with my post but please
understand the intent of it.

Now returning you to our regular program....

Ken Payne (aka List Cop :-> )
Admin


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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 19:01:38 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - COLOR OF MASTER CYLINDER

Would anyone know what color and what finish the master cylinder should be
on a 1973-76 F250 or 350 if you were trying to duplicate as closely as
possible the original factory finish ? ? ?
If you know that one, what color and finish for the power
booster.......disc brakes if it matters ? ? ?

Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
1970 F100 (ret)

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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 18:07:10 -0500
From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Garage Electricity

[ vast amount of really technical electrician stuff deleted ]

Hmmm, when I was in high school the guys and I just strung an extension
cord through some trees... (It's a wonder we all survived.)

I think Gary should invite the list over for a big party at his place. I
wanna play with the lift (WoooHooo!).

Speaking of toys (er... I mean, TOOLS) I'm considering a new cherry
picker and engine stand from Harbor Freight. They want $200 for a 2-ton
crane and $40 for a 1000lb stand (4 castors) (ad in August issue of
Camaro Craft). Are they good people to do business with? Their prices
seem WAY better than JC Whitney, and I have to act soon while SWMBO
enjoys the new 31" TV I bought for her... ;-)
Thanx! lordjanusz

'94 F150 (300ci) '73 F100 (360ci [ to be rebuilt ]) '97 Saturn
(SWMBO's)

_____________________________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 20:39:30 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dead "M"

am14 chrysler.com wrote:

> If I didn't put any more miles on it than you say you do yours, I'd risk
> putting a cam in it and a distributor and try it again. This can be done
> in some models with the engine in the vehicle. Does it have A/C???
No, and it can be done (*from a space standpoint anyway). Removal of rad
opens up huge hole for cam. If need be, I'd remove front end before
removing engine :-) Should come off easy, it just went on 2 weeks ago.

If
> not, I believe you can remove the radiator and the water pump - front cover
> - timing gear/chain assy and pull the cam out the front.(after you remove
> the distributor, of course) I've done it on certain engines/vehicles but
> I'm certainly no expert on either the Bronco or the M series engines.
> Someone on this list should be able to tell you if this can be done.
>
> Where are you M block devotee????

Seems Gary was right. I tried rotating oil pump shaft with ratchet.
It's frozen big time. This oil pump only has 70 miles on it. Oil
pressure seemed fine (although high) when I left the house. I don't
think it ran wihout oil pressure for more than a split second, as distr
gears stripped immediately.

It really annoys me that I put in a new part and it ruins my engine.
:-(

OX
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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 18:53:03 -0600
From: "Michael White"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - More info on the garage

Thanks for the input guys, a good power supply + a strong door are great
ideas. Unfortunatly a high ceiling with a lift would be asking far too much
of "the owner" (would be nice though).
After having a nightmare, I woke up and got dressed, grabbed my tape
measure and went outside to take a look. The approx inside dimmensions of my
new garage are going to 24' x 11' , which means I can't pull both rear axles
at once (heh.... unless I put a removable fan+vent in just the right spot
on the exterrior wall), and pulling an engine is going to be tough (or
impossible?) with only 6 feet to work with.

Michael

69 F250 360 auto
69 F250 390 T18 Posi 3.54



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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 17:02:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Garage Electricity, Caps, Tires

Thanks for all the help so far in my electrical project. Gary
asked a few questions and here are the answers:
- -The garage is about 150' from the house, but the actual wire length
will probably be more like 200' counting bends, etc.
- -The house is currently 200 AMP
- -House has central AC, Dryer, water heater

I plan on running lights, air compressor, MIG welder, and other
tools like a table saw, etc. but not all at once!
The tossup is: do I pay $860 for underground service to the garage
from the pole at the street-200 AMP with separate meter, installed, or
do I pay $150 for cable and trench it in myself and run 100 AMPs from
the house?

Oh well, back to Ford trucks. I have a factory Ford fiberglass
cap from a 73-79. The attachment method is pure genius! It has J-hooks
at each corner which hook down into holes which are in the side of
each stake pocket in the bed. Topside there is a big rubber donut
similar to body mount, a fender washer, and a nut. No extra holes in
the truck needed! I also have an aluminum aftermarket cap and am
thinking about drilling the corners so I can attach it with
J-bolts.....it would sure beat the 4 C-clamps I've been using! (Cap
flies off pickup truck on highway...film at 11!)

Time for tires on the 75 F100. I have been running 30x9.50-15s
but am thinking of using 31x10.50-15s. Will they fit OK on the front?
My wheels are 15x7 wagon type. I used to have 15x8s but the offset was
too deep and the back tires rubbed the fenders a bit when heavily
loaded.....by heavy I mean 3000+ lbs! I wonder if the 10.50s will rub
in the back? Experiences anyone?

BTW I'm in digest mode so it takes me a while to catch up!




==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 21:18:21 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - How to remove rear main cap???

Fellow Truck people,
While attempting to remove the rear cap to get to the rear main seal
i want to change I cannot get the cap to budge....It seems to have
a cork gasket or something running on the sides of it??Is there
a trick to remove I DO Not want to scratch the crank.....What
am I doing wrong???
- --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
Soon to be 390 FE powered!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 21:27:38 -0400
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 77-78 linkage clutch, to play or not to play

Brief question that hopefully someone knows off the top of their head ...

This is directly related to a '77-'78 E100 van, 300 I6, manual 4 speed with
stock linkage clutch system, but someone with linkage clutch repair
experience can probably direct me.

The pin/rod that goes between the clutch fork and the U shaped bracket that
bolts to the bellhousing (with those countersink torx screws/bolts) on my
van has just broke. So, going to sit down and fabricate something out of
3/8" steel rod plus some nylon bushing like material I dug up at the local
hardware store (Ford discontinued parts). Now, the real question, how much
play in any direction unrelated to enguaging and disenguaging the throwout
bearing should there be? Should I make this fork real tight so it can only
go in/out as one would theoretically surmise or would a little play/slop
up/down and left/right be a good thing?

John


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 20:48:48 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - He's Back

> Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 04:03:37 -0700
> From: "Deacon"
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Underhood heat

HHHHEEEEE'SSSSS BAAAAAAACK.......

Just when I'd gotten over my nervous tic.... Man I'll be glad when
Varner gets back.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 20:18:56 -0600
From: "Michael White"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 351M died, 460 sources...

- -----Original Message-----
From: William King
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 3:43 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 351M died, 460 sources...


>the 1968 and 1969 429s
>were not set up for manual trannys. First, the butt of the crank
>shaft is NOT machined to accept a pilot bushing. Second, the side
>of the block is NOT machined for the clutch equalizer bracket.
>I've heard that there is a Ford bracket adapter that will let
>you use a clutch equalizer bracket w/ the 68/69 429. I'll
>dig the PN out if you like. But the pilot bushing snafu is a
>pain.
>Good luck.
>Ohio Bill
>
>


After reading this post, I checked the 429 that came from a 1968 T-bird.
The crankshaft does have a spot machined for a pilot bushing, but there is
no place to mount the clutch equalizer bracket. I think this engine is
completely original, but I could be wrong.

Here are the numbers from the intake
C8SE-9425-B

The autolite carb reads as follows
C9LF A
A 9C 4

The heads read as follows
C8VE E

Are these numbers consistant with a 1968 T-bird 429? I was thinking of
selling this "working engine". What would be a fair price?

Michael
Salt Lake City, Utah

69 F250 360 auto
69 F250 CS 390 T18 Posi 3.54







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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 22:30:34 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - CHROME PLATING ON PLASTIC PARTS

I seem to remember a very long time ago reading something about the bright
metal chrome plating on plastic dash parts , but I guess I wasn't
interested enough in it at the time to remember any of it.
Is there a way to re-new this plating ? Has anyone found a company that
will put on a new coating ? I thought for sure Eastwood would have
something but their catalog doesn't show it.
If there is no replating, is there anything else one could do to make it
shiny again ??

Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
1970 F100 (ret)

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 22:53:06 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ELECTRIC COOLING FANS HOOKUP

I certainly hope Steve is reading tonite because I just know he will know
how to do this.
When you hook up electric fans, many of you have run them off BOTH manual
switches and thermostatic switches.
My questions are:
1. How do you wire up the thermostatic switch so it turns on either the
fan motor directly or the relay which activates 12V to the motor or however
you got it hooked up

2. What type of thermostatic switch...screw in block type like sending
unit or surface-mount type like ???

Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
1970 F100 (ret)

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 22:13:45 -0500
From: "Brett McCoy"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Found so time to get ....

Hello all,

I finally found some time to get greasy today. Have been painting the
house, real bummer, don't think the previous owner did it for about 25
years!! Anyway I finally said enough is enough I got to do some maint on
the truck. So, picked up the oil seal for the rear end that I needed and
started working on the passenger side leak that has been staining the
driveway for several weeks. When I got into it I found that the lock/keeper
washer had it's key way tab broken off. Wow was I glad that I had not been
driving it much. So ran up to the dealer and bought three just to have them
on hand. Buttoned it up and it looks good so far. Also finally did the oil
change I needed. Wow, that flip the tab oil drain-plug is great. No fuss
and no muss, if you get the drain pan in the right place the first time
( Now for a question, when I went to get the oil seal I stopped at the
Big-A auto shop down the street for the first time. Low and behold they
have a complete machine shop in the back! Do any of you know if this is
normal or not for a Big-A auto store? Got any ideas on how to find out if
they do good work? I was thinking about pulling the head off my 460 to take
care of the slow oil leaks and figured I may take them in and have them
cleaned and vac tested. See if they need a build. Question is how do I
know if they really need a build or if they just want my money? Any Help
would be great. The store is located in White Bear Lake, MN if any of the
MN crowd has some thoughts.

See Ya,
- -B


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 21:16:28 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dead "M"

OX wrote:

> Seems Gary was right. I tried rotating oil pump shaft with ratchet.
> It's frozen big time. This oil pump only has 70 miles on it. Oil
> pressure seemed fine (although high) when I left the house. I don't
> think it ran wihout oil pressure for more than a split second, as distr
> gears stripped immediately.

As I recall, this possibilty came up in a previous life of this thread.
Someone recommended that the oil pickup tube be replaced when working
on the bottom end/oil pump of hi-mileage engines, as often a chunk of
'stuff' can come off, lodging in the pump. (Geeze, you'd think this was
a heart attack support list! ).

> It really annoys me that I put in a new part and it ruins my engine.
> :-(

Ouch. I hate that. Especially when you have to do something twice :-(

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 00:29:36 EDT
From: GMPACHECO aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351C

Well after all the talk, I bot the truck with the engine 351C 2V, I'll take
the power brakes, intermitant wipers and see what else is to be had. Tomorrow
I pick it up, hummm don't think a 76 F-100 had front disc brakes.. So what
else do I need off this truck? Guess I'll keep the C6 or sell it, ended up
paying $150 for the whole sheebang.

Mike in Seattle
and hotter than heck
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 21:38:17 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Access ports for taillights on a '69?

J Elliott wrote:

[Tail light / Stake post access holes described]

> I checked a 1970, and it has the same opening, and on both my '69 and
> it, it appears to screw has ever been used in that hole. It seems a little
> queer to me to fabricate this opening and not do anything with it.....so,
> what is it for? was it used for something on some models and not on others?
> did Ford finally think "why bother to close the hole when the taillight
> housing is exposedt to elements via the stake opening?" Sort of curious
> about it........

My '68 F-100 had covers, as does my '70 F-250. Someone 'borrowed' yours.
The
screw is a plain sheet metal screw, it doesn't leave much evidence,
except on
the cover itself. I'll let someone else speculate as to what the holes
are for.

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 22:12:24 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ELECTRIC COOLING FANS HOOKUP

> I certainly hope Steve is reading tonite because I just know he will know
>how to do this.


Hmmm? Yeah, I'm here... weighing a bunch of stuff to take packpacking,
trying to decide what to throw out to get my load under 50 lbs... )-:


> 1. How do you wire up the thermostatic switch so it turns on either the
>fan motor directly or the relay which activates 12V to the motor or however
>you got it hooked up
>
> 2. What type of thermostatic switch...screw in block type like sending
>unit or surface-mount type like ???
>
>Jerry

Lets start with #2. My thermo switch is an adjustable bulb type switch.
It's got a copper bulb about 2"L x 1/4"D connected to the switch with
a thin copper tube. The bulb lives inside the upper rad hose. There's
a piece of rubber pad that wraps around the upper rad neck, the copper
tube lays across the pad and the rad hose shoves on over it so the
bulb is inside the hose and the tube snakes out between the rubber pad and
the hose. NOT a very deluxe setup, but that's how the instructions said to
do it, and it doesn't leak (yet)... Someday I'll solder a closed ended
thermwell into the upper rad tank to accept the bulb, but it's kinda low
on my to-do list right now..

Question #1.
A schematic is worth a bunch of words, so go here to see how mine is wired.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/show-n-tell/fanelect.jpg

Mine is wired direcly to +12v from the battery, so the fans can keep
running even with the engine off if the coolant temp is still high
enough to trip the therm switch (about 200F)

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 23:23:58 +0000
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ELECTRIC COOLING FANS HOOKUP

Jerry wrote:

> I certainly hope Steve is reading tonite because I just know he will know
> how to do this.
> When you hook up electric fans, many of you have run them off BOTH manual
> switches and thermostatic switches.
> My questions are:
> 1. How do you wire up the thermostatic switch so it turns on either the
> fan motor directly or the relay which activates 12V to the motor or however
> you got it hooked up
>
> 2. What type of thermostatic switch...screw in block type like sending
> unit or surface-mount type like ???
>
> Jerry
> 1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
> 1970 F100 (ret)

Steve will have the better explanation of how to hook it all up. We both used the same....


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