61-79-list-digest Friday, July 24 1998 Volume 02 : Number 382



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - CALLED COAST POWERTRAIN
FTE 61-79 - RE: Power Windows
FTE 61-79 - Hole in the exhaust.
Re: FTE 61-79 - 73 F-350
FTE 61-79 - 460 lifter questions?
FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79- Missing?
FTE 61-79 - Front spindles
FTE 61-79 - Sway bar
Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79- Missing?
FTE 61-79 - 68 F100 Big Block power!
Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 lifter questions?
FTE 61-79 - Re: GOLDILOCKS & THE 3 LITTLE TANKS
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power
FTE 61-79 - Rusty Rims and Innertubes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rusty Rims and Innertubes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rusty Rims and Innertubes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hole in the exhaust.
FTE 61-79 - RELUCTANT TO ASK RELUCTOR PROBLEMS
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rusty Rims and Innertubes
FTE 61-79 - Re: cooling and airconditioning
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rusty Rims and Innertubes
FTE 61-79 - engine loses power
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rusty Rims and Innertubes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rusty Rims and Innertubes
Re: FTE 61-79 - RELUCTANT TO ASK RELUCTOR PROBLEMS
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power
FTE 61-79 - RE: Underhood heat
FTE 61-79 - Dim Dash Lights.
FTE 61-79 - Power and mail??
Re: FTE 61-79 - The snowball effect
FTE 61-79 - FE Brackets
FTE 61-79 - Rear main oil seal
Re: FTE 61-79 - 73 F-350
FTE 61-79 - Fit
FTE 61-79 - F-350 Camper Special

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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 15:00:34 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: FTE 61-79 - CALLED COAST POWERTRAIN

At 02:52 PM 23/07/98 -0400, you wrote:
>What it shows -- (I don't have my lube manual here at work)
>is ESP-MC83-C or equivalent for the NP205, and the NP435 says the same
number.
>However, for the Borg Warner T-19 it lists specifically "Engine oil SAE 50
>(ESE-M2C101-C or equivalent)"
>I find this interesting.. I thought they'd both use the same. Everybody I
>know uses the 90wt axle gear lube including me...
>
>Tony
>
>Don't know what that means, but I'll check my other manual at home..
>Personally, I use 90
>

Okay. I phoned Coast powertrain here in Vancouver and got the definitive
answer. Coast Powertrain (that fixes Fullers, Eatons, New Processes, etc.)
says...

Use 50 weight transmission oil (it's almost like engine oil but not quite
the same). "Don't use gear oil cause it can ruin synchros. It doesn't
like the compound the synchros are made of. Leave it in there long enough
and it will screw your transmission. Some old truckers carry gear oil with
them and use it everywhere, power steering pump, rearends, but that's a
real bad idea."

"To clean your tranny, drain it real good, flush it with some light oil
like air tool oil or ATF or something like that, then add the 50 weight."

Straight from the expert's mouth.

So there.

And he didn't say anything about Sl*ck 50. No, I didn't ask!!!


marko in vancouver

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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 15:10:38 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Power Windows

In response to the person wanting info on power windows. To the best of my
knowledge trucks built in or before the 76 model year did not have power
windows as an option. I have sales literature and a factory service manual
from the 76 model year and neither describe power windows. I seem to recall
that I saw them on a 78 or 79 pickup or Bronco but can't be sure. Just saw
someone rolling up their window and it was going up fast and smooth and the
person did not appear to be cranking a handle. If it was an option in later
years (77-79) I would think that the regulator would retro-fit. I have seen
an article about adding power windows to an early truck (50s or 60s) but it
involved cutting and splicing two regulators together. There are universal
kits that use a chain drive to a hub that mounts on the manual crank shaft
but I don't know if you would be interested in that. Summit sells one for
around $100-200 I think.

Let us know if you find out anything else cause I would be interested. So
far I have retrofitted interval wipers, cruise control and have gotten my
ammeter to work. So far everything I have added has been factory. (so what
if the factory never offered cruise control on a 390 FE. They SHOULD
have!!!! ;0) ) I understand the desire to improve your ride with factory
options. If power windows were available I'll keep an eye out.

Regards,
Tom H
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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 15:20:25 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hole in the exhaust.

A while back someone said they had a hole in their muffler. Someone else
said don't worry about it till you can fix it. I'm not jumping on anyone
here but would like to point out that this could be a dangerous situation.
A hole in the exhaust could leak carbon monoxide into the cab or into the
bed if you have a camper, camper shell or box cover. Someone in LA
tragically made headlines when they lost a couple of kids to CO poisoning.

Secondly a hole anywhere in the exhaust can allow hot exhaust gases to jet
against the body of the vehicle and start a fire. Under the cab could start
the carpet. Under the bed could start a fire if you are carrying flammable
cargo (furniture, wood, paper, chemicals--do you keep extra oil or gas in
the back of the truck?) My grandad almost burnt a c#$ y pickup to the
ground this way. Fortunately he got the fire stopped before any real damage
was done. (I know, a possibly fitting end to that kind of truck but he and
grandma were hundreds of miles away from home and on their way to visit us
so we didn't want them stranded.) Can you say "Icth Bien Mine Karbeque,
Nein Farfromgroovin." ;0)

Tom H.
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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 18:41:23 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 73 F-350

that part I'm not sure about
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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 17:53:45 -0500
From: shane
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 lifter questions?

Can someone please tell me the proper way to set the valves on my 460.
It's a '71 model block with '73 model heads. I've rebuilt plenty of
289's and I adjusted them by having the engine running and setting the
valves with it running. Is it the same with a 460? By the way, before
I get flamed, I've been a member for about 8 months, so I'm not a
"Newby". I'm one of those people Ken calls "Lurkers". I sit here a
read and laugh at everything that comes down the line. Hey Ken, if
there is a club that might be formed, count me in. Thanks in advance,
Shane

'66 F100 Custom Cab
460 auto w/ 3.00 gears

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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 18:47:57 EDT
From: A64F100 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79- Missing?

Hello everybody, well, I've finally got the 460 back together after many
little problems slowing me down, but there's just one more little problem that
I can't figure out. The problem is that the engine is missing and kind of
sputtering. It misses and sputters at idle and through the RPM range. The idle
isn't solid, or any other RPM for that matter, it makes the tach bounce up and
down about a couple hundred RPMs. I've tried adjusting the timing, and I can
smooth it a little bit but it still idles jerkily. This engine is equipped
with the duraspark elec.ignition and the Duraspark box is brand new, but I
don't know what else it could be. Suggestions?? Oh, BTW, I just re adjusted
all the valves and made sure they were right, and that still didn't change the
problem.

Later,
Scott L.

*Keep It Ford Blue*
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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 18:52:34 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Front spindles

Hey Ben,

Sorry my little trick didn't work....probably a combination of the puller plus
rapping the spindle from the side then rapping the puller again.

I call it an "interference fit" when something is lightly pressed together,
kind of like those bolts you tapped out, and supposedly, your spindle! This
may not be the correct term, but if I know the people here at all, this will
be answered correctly, post haste....

I've also found liberal amounts of profanity to help....

Good Luck!

Hey Mike,

Sorry if I gave the impression that I put disc brakes on the Dana 60. What I
did do was find a set of drums and backing plates off a different 60 (out of
an 80-85 Dodge, I found out later!) that accommodated 3" wide rear
shoes....made a heck of a difference! I used e-brake cables (two left side
units) from an 80 F-50 4x4. The housing was a Dana 60 out of a 72 F-250. I
also installed the Power Lok unit from my 69 F-100 that had a Dana 60-2
(5-lug, semi-floating axles). In other words, it was nice that all of these
Dana parts from 69 to 85 were basically interchangeable, even between
different truck manufacturers.....

Colorado Jeff

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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 18:52:39 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sway bar

Thought I would add a little bit here....

I have 69 4x4, and installed a Hellwig Sport Tech as well. However, I chucked
all the Hellwig brackets, and found the sway bar axle clamps and frame
brackets off an old supercab. I thought the Hellwig bolt on setup looked
pretty Mickey. The stock Ford brackets fit the Dana 60 rear beautifully, and I
just had to drill a couple of frame holes to accomodate the front brackets.
There were a few more details, but this installation came out CLEAN....

Colorado Jeff
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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 19:51:52 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79- Missing?

Could be a vaccum leak, try hooking a vaccum guage up and see what it reads
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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 19:22:23 -0500
From: donkin
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 68 F100 Big Block power!

Hello,

I have a 1968 F100 LWB 4X2 that currently has a 351m and a C6. I have
been lucky enough to find a wrecked later 70's model 3/4ton truck with a

460 and a C6. I'm wondering how much would be involved to make this
transplant into my '68.. would i have to change the driveline at all?
I'm also wondering if i cant get the C6, can i hook it up to my C4?

TIA,
Shawn

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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 20:28:52 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 460 lifter questions?

At 05:53 PM 7/23/98 -0500, you wrote:
>"Newby". I'm one of those people Ken calls "Lurkers".

Not anymore!

>I sit here a
>read and laugh at everything that comes down the line. Hey Ken, if
>there is a club that might be formed, count me in. Thanks in advance,
>Shane
>

It'll happen within a couple of months. Lots of stuff to get
accomplish first. I still have to get the web space stuff
going for members who want it. This promise is months overdue.

Ken

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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 20:41:16 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: GOLDILOCKS & THE 3 LITTLE TANKS

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 19:25:35 -0700
> From: bertolina juno.com (NineteenSixtyFive F100)
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power


One of these days, I'll be doing some of this myself
This truck has 3 tanks but is only running off the main one (behind the
seat). I haven't even tried the other 2 auxiliary tanks...not sure they
would register on the gauge...any one know? Also not sure how much gunk
they
> might have in them....anyway to flush them out without removing them?
Roberta in rainy Tucson, AZ with 1965 F-100

Alas, young Roberta with 65, we meet 'cause thou hast touched upon an area
of my expertieze. (All votes still not in)
......Back on the farm, they used to call me the *3-tank wonder*. You
need to look around the cab for a switch...may be labeled main & rear.
(I've never actually seen a 65 with 3 tanks so I'm guessing here)
This switch,when thrown, will cause the fuel gauge in the dash to tell you
how much fuel is in the rear tanks and also cause the fuel to be drawn from
the rear tanks.
Unfortunately, I do not know of a way (i.e.. proper way) to flush these on
the vehicle. If someone tried to tell me one, I would probably pull the
tanks down anyway and do a real good job. Unless they are full of fuel,
they are not that difficult to drop down. 2 straps held in place by 2
bolts, unplug sending unit connector and thats it ! Depending on the crud
level you find inside, either do it yourself out by the garden, or if
really nasty.....any radiator shop can flush it quite economically. Just
dont go for their aircraft-type sealer sell-job they will try to tell you
that you need. Eastwoods catalog came today and in it, they have a
similar chemical sealer kit you just dump in your tank for 75% less than my
local shop wanted. End result=same.
One of the earliest FTE pioneers years ago once said, and I quote,
......the only thing we have to fear about what is in that fuel tank we
haven't used for some time, is the fear that there is something very
fearful in it that we would want to get out so we wouldn't fear it again. !
! !
Sounds like good advise to me. Keep the list posted on your progress.
Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW + 3 tanks
1970 F100 (ret)


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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 17:47:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve & Rockette
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power

> My $0.012 ($0.02 Canadian) would be a question: Does this occur whether
>you are on an incline or level? Come to think of it, it's pretty level
>where you are, or am I jumping to conclusions. There is a hill between
>Yakima and Ellensburg (WA) where I have a similar experience. I figured
>it was either crud in the tank or a leaky float in the carb. I don't know
>why this one particular hill is at just the right angle to cause me
>problems, but it does...I think it's some residual Yakima Indian Guardian
>Spirit or...
>
>

A better question, is the fuel leaking out of the bowl and into the
throat of the carb??

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'63 F100 Longbox
'94 Taurus SHO - SWMBO's new car!!
and since most are listing all thier cars:
'72 Capri - Rockette's Toy, aka - SWMBO
'73 Capri - My Toy / Daily Driver
'73 MGB-GT Our Toy
'70 Torino GT My "New" Car


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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 18:30:37 -0700
From: bertolina juno.com (NineteenSixtyFive F100)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power

Earlier message from: Dennis Pearson
> My $0.012 ($0.02 Canadian) would be a question: Does this occur
>whether you are on an incline or level? Come to think of it, it's
pretty
>level where you are, or am I jumping to conclusions.

Dennis, there are just slight grades in Tucson except for upper foot hill
areas. It has happened on perfectly flat grades as well as gradual
climbing...(a grade a person in reasonably good shape could easily climb
on a bicycle). I'm not even sure heat is a trigger...I drove it Sunday ~
45 miles non stop. The outside temp was in the high 90's, it ran well the
entire time and it was running warm, temp gauge near the "/H" slash mark
. Monday, it pooped out in low to mid 90 degree temps after stop and go
city driving ~ 15 miles, temp gauge stayed mid way between H & C.
Roberta in Tucson, AZ with 1965 F-100 custom cab long bed


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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 20:49:52 -0500
From: "Nils Gore"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rusty Rims and Innertubes

Here's a question I haven't seen yet in the while I've been subscribing to
the list:

Besides the hassle and extra expense of dealing with them, is there a
problem (safety, fuel economy, etc.) with running innertubes inside of my
tires?

I have (I suspect) the original rims on my 64, and the backside of the lip
has enough rust on it that the tires won't hold a seal without a tube. This
is surface rust, not bad enough to hurt the strength of the rim.

I like the look of the rims (smooth face type for baby moon hubcaps), and
haven't yet found new ones around here. So for now, I'd like to keep them.

Any thoughts?

Nils Gore

'73 F100, 302
"64 F100, (to be determined...)
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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 21:48:52 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rusty Rims and Innertubes

I don't know about inner tubes being a safety problem, but have you tried
buffing the seal surface of the rims? I bet with a little elbow grease you
could get those rims sealing again
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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 20:57:38 -0500
From: "Michael R. Masse"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rusty Rims and Innertubes

I too am very curious about this, but for another reason. Since
switching to 16.5" wheels I now have the problem of breaking the bead
real easy. when I air down for off-road use. I was contemplating bead
locks, but someone else suggested using tubes. One other question to
add is can they be used in either bias-ply or radial tires?

Nils Gore wrote:
>
> Here's a question I haven't seen yet in the while I've been subscribing to
> the list:
>
> Besides the hassle and extra expense of dealing with them, is there a
> problem (safety, fuel economy, etc.) with running innertubes inside of my
> tires?
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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 19:14:11 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hole in the exhaust.

At 03:20 PM 23/07/98 -0700, you wrote:
>A while back someone said they had a hole in their muffler. Someone else
>said don't worry about it till you can fix it. I'm not jumping on anyone
>here but would like to point out that this could be a dangerous situation.
>A hole in the exhaust could leak carbon monoxide into the cab or into the
>bed if you have a camper, camper shell or box cover. Someone in LA
>tragically made headlines when they lost a couple of kids to CO poisoning.
>
>Secondly a hole anywhere in the exhaust can allow hot exhaust gases to jet
>against the body of the vehicle and start a fire. Under the cab could start
>the carpet. Under the bed could start a fire if you are carrying flammable
>cargo (furniture, wood, paper, chemicals--do you keep extra oil or gas in
>the back of the truck?) My grandad almost burnt a c#$ y pickup to the
>ground this way. Fortunately he got the fire stopped before any real damage
>was done.

Aw.


Seriously though, you're absolutely right. Another thing that holes in
your exh system do is cause backfires (in combination with other factors of
course, but a holed exh system is prime for backfiring).


marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 22:34:38 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RELUCTANT TO ASK RELUCTOR PROBLEMS

After considerable diagnostical efforts were extended, I cant seem to make
any progress on a new problem that occurred.
Can we talk ?
1977 351W
Intermittent, (very intermittent - only occasionally under medium
acceleration, cold or hot) minor ignition miss.
Worse when you floor it, lessens when you let up on accel.
Acts like bad dura-spark module that took a week to go bad once. It was
under warranty still so I replaced it yesterday with absolutely NO change
in problem.
Reluctor is 90 days old.
I should have paid more attention to the posts about play in the dist
shaft a while back. I have some. (measured it using *field method*) It
moves back and forth about the thickness of 2 bank checks.
All I can come up with at this point is another bad reluctor but I thought
I would ask your opinions first. Anyway to test it to make sure .
Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
1970 F100 (ret)

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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 21:55:35 -0500
From: Jim McCarty
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rusty Rims and Innertubes

Several years ago, I ran tubes inside tubeless tires. Since the rim is
designed to seal airtight, "bubbles" or pockets of air remained between
the tube and the rim. Eventually, it all leaked out and I am assuming
it leaked out through the valve hole. But it took months of checking
and constantly adjusting the pressure until it stabilized.

JAM


Michael R. Masse wrote:
>
> I too am very curious about this, but for another reason. Since
> switching to 16.5" wheels I now have the problem of breaking the bead
> real easy. when I air down for off-road use. I was contemplating bead
> locks, but someone else suggested using tubes. One other question to
> add is can they be used in either bias-ply or radial tires?
>
> Nils Gore wrote:
> >
> > Here's a question I haven't seen yet in the while I've been subscribing to
> > the list:
> >
> > Besides the hassle and extra expense of dealing with them, is there a
> > problem (safety, fuel economy, etc.) with running innertubes inside of my
> > tires?
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 22:18:07 -0400
From: "Kerry Walker"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: cooling and airconditioning

According to an article called " Keeping Cool " inthe August '98 issue of
Classic Trucks, The fan blades should be halfway in and out of the shroud.

" This placement allows the air to pull efficiently through the shroud and
peel off under the tip of the fan blade. This also prevents the air from
deadpanning against the engine block. Mounting the fan like this can
decrease temperatures, in some cases as much as 20 degrees!"

It's a pretty good article. I read it several times while trying to decide
what kind of cooling system to use on my '68. If anybody's having cooling
problems or thinking of upgrading you might check the magazine racks or the
library. There is a BIG picture of a nice '55 Ch*vy on the cover, and a
small picture of the slickest '56 Ford I have ever seen. Squats too much,
but its still slick. A lot of restoration stuff in there too.



'93 F-350 Crew Cab 7.3 ( Old Blue )
'68 F-100 LWB ( Shake Rattle and Roll )
'92 Acura Integra ( Damn it's cramped in there! )


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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 20:29:22 -0700
From: Blaine Strong
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rusty Rims and Innertubes

Michael R. Masse wrote:
>
> I too am very curious about this, but for another reason. Since
> switching to 16.5" wheels I now have the problem of breaking the bead
> real easy. when I air down for off-road use. I was contemplating bead
> locks, but someone else suggested using tubes. One other question to
> add is can they be used in either bias-ply or radial tires?
>
> Nils Gore wrote:
> >
> > Here's a question I haven't seen yet in the while I've been subscribing to
> > the list:
> >
> > Besides the hassle and extra expense of dealing with them, is there a
> > problem (safety, fuel economy, etc.) with running innertubes inside of my
> > tires?
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html



If you have radial tires, you must use tubes designed for radial tires
(expensive)
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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 23:28:56 -0400
From: pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power

>>>>What I found was the screen on the pickup tube was plugged. (snip
snip)
Does anyone know whether my 1965 F-100 240 inline 6 would have this?

On my 65 F100 the behind the seat gas tank sprung a leak. I replaced it
with a tank that I got from the junk yard. I started having the same
problems you describe immediately after the change so I knew the problem
was the junk yard tank. I drained the tank then took it out for a better
inspection. I flushed it out with water from a garden hose and everything
looked nice and clean inside. When I tried to force water down the pickup
tube it would not flow into the tank like I expected. The pickup tube was
clogged. I attached a length of flexible but strong wire to a drill and
ran it up and down inside the tube to clean it out. I got quite a bit of
gunk out and noticed some of the crud was like a fiberglass filter
material. Ford must have put a filter packing in the end of pickup tube
to help strain the fuel. Unfortunately the tube is spot welded in place
so it can not be removed to clean. This could be your problem.

Jon E. Purut
Pickup65 juno.com
JCPurut worldnet.att.net
Visit my site http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~JCPurut

1964 F500
1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
1965 F100
1977 F150
1970 Mustang Fastback

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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 20:48:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve & Rockette
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rusty Rims and Innertubes

At 08:49 PM 23/7/98 -0500, you wrote:

>I have (I suspect) the original rims on my 64, and the backside of the lip
>has enough rust on it that the tires won't hold a seal without a tube. This
>is surface rust, not bad enough to hurt the strength of the rim.
>

Ask the next tire monkey to use some grease on the bead area, that
usually cures the problem. At least it did on my 63.......

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'63 F100 Longbox
'94 Taurus SHO - SWMBO's new car!!
and since most are listing all thier cars:
'72 Capri - Rockette's Toy, aka - SWMBO
'73 Capri - My Toy / Daily Driver
'73 MGB-GT Our Toy
'70 Torino GT My "New" Car


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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 21:08:14 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rusty Rims and Innertubes

At 08:48 PM 23/07/98 -0700, you wrote:
>At 08:49 PM 23/7/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>I have (I suspect) the original rims on my 64, and the backside of the lip
>>has enough rust on it that the tires won't hold a seal without a tube. This
>>is surface rust, not bad enough to hurt the strength of the rim.
>>
>
> Ask the next tire monkey to use some grease on the bead area, that
>usually cures the problem. At least it did on my 63.......
>

Yeah!

When I used to run dump trucks they always greased the bead area.

You cud have the bead areas sandblasted and painted/greased too, to fix
some of the problem with rust scaling.

marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 01:24:55 -0400
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RELUCTANT TO ASK RELUCTOR PROBLEMS

From: Jerry

> After considerable diagnostical efforts were extended, I cant seem to
make
> any progress on a new problem that occurred.
> Can we talk ?
> 1977 351W
> Intermittent, (very intermittent - only occasionally under medium
> acceleration, cold or hot) minor ignition miss.



Well inspect the magnet portion very closely for cracks etc. and you try
this;
disconnect the vacuum supply to the vacuum advance, drive it and see if it
goes a away, or quickly connect and disconnect the vacuum supply to the
advance several times very rapidly and see if you can duplicate it while
idling. If you had access to an automotive oscilloscope and the part is bad
you would probably see the pattern do some funky things while doing this
with the vacuum supply to the advance. There are many other things, some
simple and some not so simple that can cause what you describe. But I am
following your line of recent maintenance. If doing this does produce the
symptom you sure do have a bad "pick-up coil" or reluctor as you call it.
No kidding this could be as simple as cracked porcelain on one spark plug
or the boot on a plug wire that has a pinhole in it. A water mister does
fine in finding something like that. Good luck, remember there are more bad
"new" or "almost new" ignition parts than bad old ones.


John Miller, FoMoCoNUT Gibralter.net
96 F-350 Reg Cab XLT, 4x4, 460 w/ A4OD, My Baby "Baloo"
75 F-100 Reg Cab Ranger, 2wd, 360, C6, Daily Driver "Lucy"
and "always" looking ! ! !

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Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 23:11:55 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power

Dennis wrote:

> My $0.012 ($0.02 Canadian) would be a question: Does this occur whether
> you are on an incline or level? Come to think of it, it's pretty level
> where you are, or am I jumping to conclusions. There is a hill between
> Yakima and Ellensburg (WA) where I have a similar experience. I figured
> it was either crud in the tank or a leaky float in the carb. I don't know
> why this one particular hill is at just the right angle to cause me
> problems, but it does...I think it's some residual Yakima Indian Guardian

I had a car that would do this to my wife. Only on Fridays. Only
while she was waiting in line, at the bank, on an incline. Of
course, by the time I got there, the car would start after a few
cranks. After the third time, under the threat of her doing great
harm to my car (Dat Roadster), I took it apart on the spot. No
gas in the carbs, no gas in the pump. Seems the check valve on the
inlet to the pump had failed. While she was waiting in line (on an
incline), the fuel would run back to the tank, after idling a while,
the carbs were dry. Cough, cough. Then, with no power, she would
back down the incline, and into a nice level parking spot, then go
call me. Gas would fill line, I'd arrive and spin the engine a few
times - and presto!

FTC - About 17 years ago, I sold my Dat roadster & my Dat pickup,
and bought my F-100. I've had an F-series ever since:-)

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 04:26:00 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Underhood heat

Steve D writes: >>I saw some datsun Z's that had a blower (looked like a
small heater blower) that were set up to blow cool air from the outside
world onto the top of the motor where the EFI stuff was.

Ahem. As the (self-appointed) FTE defender of the Z, I find this one
interesting. True Z's (not ZX's) never had such an item. However, I think
you will find that if any later (ZX's) were rigged this way, they were
probably turbo units, and the blower was used to evacuate hot air from the
turbo, which sits near the FI, to the outside air, used as an addition to
the large passive vent they already had in the hood for just that reason.
The same could be true for on later 280Z which had non-functional vents in
the hood that could easily be made functional. Even on the original Z's the
service bulletin fix for heat collecting in the engine bay was to start
cutting holes to get inside air above the intake out (then pop-rivet on some
funky "race-inspired" duct-looking plastic disguise) to avoid vapor lock.

J. Elliott



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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:33:44 -0400
From: "jhbryson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dim Dash Lights.

I have a '73 F250 Ranger and would like to have brighter dash lights. I
have seen the posts on making headlights brighter. Would the same
principle apply to the dash lights? I have had the assembly out of the
dash and have cleaned the contacts, but it made no difference in the
brightness. At the edge of dark it is difficult to see what is going on
with the gauges.
Thanks,
JHB
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Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 06:58:50 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power and mail??

Well I've been gone two days and have exactly 2 messages. Any clues?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 15:45:52 -0600
From: "Michael White"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - The snowball effect

>
>cars/trucks/bikes/boats, and especially motorsports has got to be the most
>addicting thing i ever experienced. peolpe lose their lives over
>drugs/alcohol - i might loose mine over horsepower!
>
>and in less than 3 years i'd like to be making over 1000 hp with no nitrous
>or blower on a single 4bbl. ok, lets see:
>$6000 in heads
>$500 in intake
>$2500 in block
>$750 in carb
>$???? in titanium rods
>and on . . . .
>
>sleddog
........................


What type of fuel does this engine require..... and does it reach warp
speed?

Michael



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Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 09:22:09 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Brackets

Marco writes: >>Or a 352 or a 360. Trucks with ps and 360's might be the
way to go, they were produced all the way up to 76 weren't they?

Yep!!! '77 was the introduction year for the 351M/400, and the deletion of
the FE 360.(in trucks).

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 09:55:06 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear main oil seal

Joe writes: >>Can anybody give me pointers on changing the rear main seal
on a 390...Tricks, secrets anything you can send my way..


I've done it several times and here is what I remember..

Remove nuts from motor mount bolts that goes through stanchion - place jack
under oil pan using a large(like 6" square or so) piece of wood between
jack and pan and lift engine as high as it will go (rear of engine of
bellhousing will contact cowl). Place small 2X4 wood blocks(or similar)
between engine and motor mounts to keep engine as high as possible off
frame - (if dipstick is in pan, rfemove dipstick tube) remove oil pan bolts
and remove oil pan ( you may have to remove the oil pump pick up tube and
turn the crank shaft a few degrees one way or another to get the pan to
clear, but it can be done). Remove the rear main cap and loosen all the
other mains a half round or so. If the seal is neoprene just slip the old
one out and put the new one in. If you have a rope seal you are most
likely going to need a helper here. Get a grip on one end of the seal with
a very good set of needle nose pliers and while pulling on this end have
your helper rotate the crankshaft in the same direction you are pulling
while pushing on the other end of the seal with a blunt instrument such as
a small drift pin or the like. DO NOT SCRATCH THE SURFACE OF THE CRANK
THAT THE SEAL RIDES ON. I shouldn't have to tell you why. Reverse the
procedure for installation of the new rope seal, or better yet put a
neoprene seal back in. Reverse the removal procedure for reinstallation of
pan (don't forget to retorque all your mains) and you have it.

Be patient!!

Good luck.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 07:01:20 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 73 F-350

Thanks for your message at 02:29 PM 7/23/98 -0700, Marko Maryniak. Your
message was:
>At 03:21 PM 23/07/98 EDT, you wrote:
>>Well its not super camper, but actually Camper Special. This means that the
>>truck has front and rear sway bars. Basically just look at the normal
>things.
>>the differences between the 150 and 350 are all in suspension (stiffer
>>springs), the brakes are stronger, and the 350 is equiped with a dana60 rear
>
>isn't the frame deeper too? I know the frame on my F250 is much deeper
>than the one on my F100.
>
Levi just got one and I know the wheelbase is longer. His also (surprise
to us!) was setup with a "Dually" rear end. Is this one variation of the
Dana 60.

Interesting side note--this truck has made Levi made the first admission
ever that he "Might have to become a Ford man."

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm (Will be updated this weekend,
maybe tonight).





1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1970 Marquis 429
1973 Mustang 302 (tired)
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
!962 Unibody short box (shell)traded to Levi--
It's gonna be a convertible!
1990 Aerostar
1981 Rabbit Convertible (How did that get in here?)
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Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 10:07:28 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fit

Ben L. writes: >> By the way, what is meant by "interference fit".

Can be pushed on by hand, but will not drop on. Has a slight interference,
but not enough to necessitate the use of a press.

These types of fits usually rust together over several years and cause much
grief. A press fit won't allow collection of moisture nearly as bad. A
good example of interference fit is how the center hole in the drum of a 9"
FOMOCO rearend fits to the axle. If it hasn't been removed in several
years, it takes quite a while (and often times a bit of ingenuity) to
remove because of the rust/crud collection.


Azie
Ardmore, Al.



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Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 10:25:16 -0400
From: am14 ....

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