61-79-list-digest Wednesday, July 22 1998 Volume 02 : Number 380



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power
RE: FTE 61-79 - The snowball effect
Re: FTE 61-79 - Trouble removing fromt axle
FTE 61-79 - Bogging down
FTE 61-79 - oil pans
FTE 61-79 - Tara Springs Auto Recycler ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power
RE: FTE 61-79 - The snowball effect
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power (Keith)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Trouble removing fromt axle
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power (Keith)
FTE 61-79 - Trouble removing fromt axle
FTE 61-79 - FE Holley Tweaks
FTE 61-79 - 1980 Chrome
FTE 61-79 - Re:CALLING ALL CHEMISTS
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power (Keith)
FTE 61-79 - HEY TONY MARINO!
Re: FTE 61-79 - HEY TONY MARINO!
Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Holley Tweaks
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power (Keith)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:CALLING ALL CHEMISTS
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:CALLING ALL CHEMISTS
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power (Keith)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:CALLING ALL CHEMISTS
Re: FTE 61-79 - Trouble removing fromt axle
FTE 61-79 - engine losing power
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power
Re: FTE 61-79 - PS brackets for 352?
FTE 61-79 - rE: ENGINE LOSES POWER
FTE 61-79 - Re: CHANGING VALUE OF R-12
FTE 61-79 - New wheels
FTE 61-79 - Re: FUEL ECONOMY 101 FOLLOW-UP

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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 10:52:29 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power

Vapor lock....Sounds like the fuel in the line/carb is heating up and
boiling. You may need a spacer on the carb, or run the fuel line away from
heat sources.

Good luck.
- -----Original Message-----
From: NineteenSixtyFive F100
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, July 21, 1998 11:43 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power


>I've been having problems with my 1965 F100. It has the original 240 6
>cyl. engine in it with the manual 3 speed transmission. The following
>problem has been occurring on a fairly regular basis: When the truck is
>fully warmed up and usually traveling between 35 and 55 mph the engine
>loses power and will no longer accelerate. Sometimes I'm able to "ride it
>out" and power resumes before I lose too much speed. A couple times, I
>have had to pull off the side of the road, shut the engine off and
>restart it hoping that will resolve the situation. One time the engine
>restarted easily and the truck ran fine. Today, it was difficult to
>restart and difficult to keep running once started...it ultimately
>cleared up and was fine for the rest of the 20-30 mile trip.
>The truck has had recent change of spark plugs, timing adjusted, new
>spark plug wires. The fuel filter is fairly new and the fuel pump has
>good flow. Any ideas as to what it might be? It acts like a 1985 Honda
>Accord I used to have when I was climbing up a pass...turned out the fuel
>filter was clogged.
>Thanks for any thoughts you have.
>Roberta in Tucson AZ with a 1965 F-100 custom cab long bed, rust free
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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>

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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 11:14:10 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - The snowball effect

oh yes! started out at the end of last pulling season looking at about a
$1000 to $1500 job for this season. about dec or so i upped it into the
$3000 dollar range because i found the right deal on the right parts, and
could not pass it up!

then, i found more right parts-the motor alone is looking to go over the
cost of a new car a few years ago. then, i found the truck! my $1500
budget turned into a $15,000 and still not enough; mountains of debt and
fustration! and i won't be able to do everything i want till next year
even. hell, i may not even get it together this year! still need so many
small parts and stuff. all the little things add up fast. bolts, washers,
nuts, screws, gaskets, cleaners, tools, seals, wires, connectors, and the
most valuable commodity of all -- TIME! man it does take alot more time
than i expect. always.

cars/trucks/bikes/boats, and especially motorsports has got to be the most
addicting thing i ever experienced. peolpe lose their lives over
drugs/alcohol - i might loose mine over horsepower!

and in less than 3 years i'd like to be making over 1000 hp with no nitrous
or blower on a single 4bbl. ok, lets see:
$6000 in heads
$500 in intake
$2500 in block
$750 in carb
$???? in titanium rods
and on . . . .

sleddog
- ----------
From: Michael White[SMTP:mwhite3 gte.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 1998 6:23 AM
To: 61-79-list
Subject: FTE 61-79 - The snowball effect

There have been a couple of posts regarding the cost of restoration,
and
I think something has not been mentioned about these spendy projects......
"the snowball effect". Haven't we all started on what was supposed to be a
very simple project, and it ended up being something much more than that?


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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 10:17:55 -0500
From: Mike Masse
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Trouble removing fromt axle

It sounds like you're trying to remove the spindle. It helps a lot to
pound out the bolts. You won't be able to pound out the bottom one
because the ball joint will be in the way, but removing the other 4 will
help a lot.

Benjamin Lange wrote:
>
> I was trying to remove the front driver's side axle from a '77 F250 and
> ran into a bit of trouble. Actually the part I am having trouble with
> is the component that the wheel bearings ride on. It appears that there
> are only five nuts that hold it to the rest of the front wheel assembly
> but after removing the nuts this piece will not budge. I tried
> penetrating oil, tapping it with hammer and chisel, wheel puller,
> all of the above, nothing will move it. As far as I can tell this piece
> should just slip off. Am I missing something?
> Is there something else I can try? I was told that applying heat could
> prove to be counterproductive in that I may crack it. Is this true?
> Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Mike
'78 Bronco
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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 11:16:07 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bogging down

Roberta writes: >>When the truck is fully warmed up and usually traveling
between 35 and 55 mph the engine loses power and will no longer accelerate.
Sometimes I'm able to "ride it out" and power resumes before I lose too
much speed. A couple times, I have had to pull off the side of the road,
shut the engine off and restart it hoping that will resolve the situation.
One time the engine restarted easily and the truck ran fine. Today, it was
difficult to
restart and difficult to keep running once started...it ultimately
cleared up and was fine for the rest of the 20-30 mile trip.


Starving for fuel. Could be something to do with timing, but most likely
something is causing a restriction of the fuel under certain conditions.
These are extremely hard to diagnose with out having access to the vehicle
under these conditions, but you need to look for restrictions of gas flow
while it is "bogging".Somethings to look for: rubber hose in fuel line
between Fuel pump and tank collapsing - Needle/seat sticking closed (or
partially closed) usually caused by float dragging/hanging on something -
Vapor lock.
All I can think of at the moment.

Good luck.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 12:11:03 EDT
From: NUTCH11 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - oil pans

hi

here is my idea of how to fix that fe truck pan.
i use a truck pan on the 427 in my "56" t-bird.
it leaked, took the pan apart , made two cork gaskets one for inside and one
for outside the pan. put the pan back together using aviation permatex. the
rivets you drill out are called tinners rivets. any good hardware or nut and
bolt house will have them. DIY,Homedepot,lowes, etc. won't have them. bolts
and welding have obvious
problems.

good luck

john


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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 11:14:14 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tara Springs Auto Recycler ?

Anyone ever used this organization?
They have a tailgate to sell me, but I have never heard of them or used them and
would feel better if some could say they have had success using them.

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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 09:23:06 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power

At 08:13 PM 7/21/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I've been having problems with my 1965 F100. It has the original 240 6
>cyl. engine in it with the manual 3 speed transmission. The following
>problem has been occurring on a fairly regular basis: When the truck is
>fully warmed up and usually traveling between 35 and 55 mph the engine
>loses power and will no longer accelerate. Sometimes I'm able to "ride it
>out" and power resumes before I lose too much speed. A couple times, I
>have had to pull off the side of the road, shut the engine off and
>restart it hoping that will resolve the situation. One time the engine
>restarted easily and the truck ran fine. Today, it was difficult to
>restart and difficult to keep running once started...it ultimately
>cleared up and was fine for the rest of the 20-30 mile trip.
>The truck has had recent change of spark plugs, timing adjusted, new
>spark plug wires. The fuel filter is fairly new and the fuel pump has
>good flow. Any ideas as to what it might be? It acts like a 1985 Honda
>Accord I used to have when I was climbing up a pass...turned out the fuel
>filter was clogged.
>Thanks for any thoughts you have.
>Roberta in Tucson AZ with a 1965 F-100 custom cab long bed, rust free

Read all of the other posts before I replied to this post.

I live in Mesa AZ and have a 66 F-100 with the 240 I-6. My family has owned
this truck since 1966. This truck lived in Nebraska until 1990. Dad gave
it to me that year, and I brought it to AZ. I know this Trucks history
very well! I learned to drive in this truck. Once the Temperature reaches
90 degrees or above, I park it and do not drive it until the Temp's go
down. I stopped driving it during the summer. It vapor locks all of the
time! It did this in Nebraska to, only not as bad.

This is what I have done to my truck to try and solve this problem.

1. Had Fuel Tank removed fuel tank and cleaned it out.
2. Replaced Fuel Pump and Fuel Filter. The Filter is a large canister type
that sits on top of and is attached to the fuel pump. The Filter cartridge
is almost as large as the Oil Filter!
3. Replaced all of the Fuel Lines.
4. I have gone through 9 different Carbs over the past nine years, the heat
warps the top cover of the carb and then it starts leaking fuel all over
the hot exhaust manifold.
5. I have replaced the 2 core radiator with a 3 core radiator.
6. I have fabricated my own fan shroud.

NOTHING HAS HELPED YET! Once the Temp's get over 90, I park the truck
until the weather cools off. I can not drive it on the freeway, runs out
of fuel in the carb before I hit 50 MPH. I can't use the truck to run
errands because if I let it sit for 5 minuets and then try and start it, I
will sit there and have to crank it over for several minuets before it will
start. Then it starts, runs for 30 seconds and dies. Start the whole
process over again. I have worn out three starters doing this!

Oh by the way, this truck does not have air. I have a small thermometer in
the cab. In the summer time, the Temp in the cab has hit 120 degrees F
while sitting at traffic lights. The engine Temp consistently runs between
210-220 degrees and goes higher at stop lights when the Temps are 100 or
above.

Things I am going to try.

1. Replace oil bath air cleaner with a paper element Air Cleaner, is I can
ever find one that would fit. One thing that does not help my situation
is, the Carb is sandwiched between the HOT Exhaust Manifold, and this
rather large Oil Bath Air Cleaner that retains a lot of heat. I haven't
actually used a thermometer to check the temp of the air cleaner, but even
with gloves on, I can only hold on to it for a very short period of time.
2. Switch to an electric fuel pump and re-route the fuel lines. Picture
this, as you are standing in front of the truck looking at the motor, The
fuel pump is on the right side of the engine, just above the oil pan. The
fuel line runs to the fuel filter, then up along side the engine to a spot
that is level with the valve cover. It does a 90 degree turn, runs to the
front of the valve cover. Another 90 degree turn, run past the front of the
valve cover. 90 degree turn, then runs along side the valve cover, over top
of the exhaust manifold, under the Oil Bath Air Cleaner, and into the front
of Carb. The fuel line is "soaked" in engine heat.
3. Replace small radiator used with the I-6 with a Radiator that would be
used with a V-8 to try and help keep things cooled off.

Now that you have read this long winded reply, is there anything else I
could try?????


Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ

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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 09:41:52 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - The snowball effect

Thanks for your message at 11:14 AM 7/22/98 -0400, Sleddog. Your message was:
>
> There have been a couple of posts regarding the cost of restoration,
>and
>I think something has not been mentioned about these spendy projects......
>"the snowball effect". Haven't we all started on what was supposed to be a
>very simple project, and it ended up being something much more than that?
>

AMEN!
1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1970 Marquis 429
1973 Mustang 302 (tired)
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
!962 Unibody short box (shell)traded to Levi--
It's gonna be a convertible!
1990 Aerostar
1981 Rabbit Convertible (How did that get in here?)
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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 10:46:42 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power (Keith)


>NOTHING HAS HELPED YET! Once the Temp's get over 90, I park the truck
>until the weather cools off. I can not drive it on the freeway, runs out
>of fuel in the carb before I hit 50 MPH. I can't use the truck to run
>errands because if I let it sit for 5 minuets and then try and start it, I
>will sit there and have to crank it over for several minuets before it will
>start. Then it starts, runs for 30 seconds and dies. Start the whole
>process over again. I have worn out three starters doing this!
>
>Oh by the way, this truck does not have air. I have a small thermometer in
>the cab. In the summer time, the Temp in the cab has hit 120 degrees F
>while sitting at traffic lights. The engine Temp consistently runs between
>210-220 degrees and goes higher at stop lights when the Temps are 100 or
>above.

>Now that you have read this long winded reply, is there anything else I
>could try?????
>
>
>Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net

The 1 bbl carb on the 240/300 motors is not a real deluxe item to start
with, and it has the big disadvantage that it sits right over the
exhaust manifold. My girlfriend used to have trouble restarting hers
after a good hot soak, and I made a 1" thick plastic spacer that sits
between the carb and manifold to help insulate it from the hot intake.
It helped a lot and now starts easily when hot. (She lives in Sacramento
where it often is over 100 degrees) You might give that a try...
When I was at pick'n'pull with Pat last weekend, I saw some datsun Z's
that had a blower (looked like a small heater blower) that were set up
to blow cool air from the outside world onto the top of the motor where
the EFI stuff was.
Perhaps You could set up a small blower with some ducting to pull cool
air in and blow it across the carb... put it on a thermostat switch so
it comes on when the engine compartment temp gets above a certain point.
Or maybe You could move to Canada where it's not as hot...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 12:29:29 +0000
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Trouble removing fromt axle

Benjamin Lange wrote:

> I was trying to remove the front driver's side axle from a '77 F250 and
> ran into a bit of trouble. Actually the part I am having trouble with
> is the component that the wheel bearings ride on.

Spindle

> It appears that there
> are only five nuts that hold it to the rest of the front wheel assembly
> but after removing the nuts this piece will not budge. I tried
> penetrating oil, tapping it with hammer and chisel, wheel puller,
> all of the above, nothing will move it. As far as I can tell this piece
> should just slip off.

Yep

> Am I missing something?

Nope

>
>
>
> Is there something else I can try? I was told that applying heat could
> prove to be counterproductive in that I may crack it. Is this true?
> Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
>
> Ben Lange

Sometimes there is a small rust problem between the spindle and the
knuckle. Try to back out the bolts or studs if you can. I have tried the
hammer and chisel method with out much success either. What I use is a
soft rubber hammer. Soft enough that it will not damage the threads on the
spindle. Placing the spindle nuts on the end of the spindle will help
also. Hammer on the left a couple of times and then on the right side a
couple of time and back and forth and back and forth. What you are trying
to do is make a rocking motion between the spindle and knuckle. Sometimes
it will take a while to get it loose but it seems to be the only way that
works for me.


- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 13:07:59 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power (Keith)

>
> The 1 bbl carb on the 240/300 motors is not a real deluxe item to start
> with, and it has the big disadvantage that it sits right over the
> exhaust manifold. My girlfriend used to have trouble restarting hers
> after a good hot soak, and I made a 1" thick plastic spacer that sits
> between the carb and manifold to help insulate it from the hot intake.

Steve, Where did you come up with a 1" thick piece of plastic? What kind
of plastic was it?



> Or maybe You could move to Canada where it's not as hot...

This thought has crossed my mind several times, but for now.......

Later


Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ

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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:28:01 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Trouble removing fromt axle

I was hoping someone would ask this question!

Hey Ben, the part you are trying to remove is called a spindle, which has an
interference fit with the steering knuckle. I found a slick way to take these
off if you are careful. First, you'll need to get yourself (easily rented) a
good gear puller. Take both of the spindle nuts (the two big nuts you took
probably backed off with a hammer and screwdriver, unless you got the tool)
and thread them on the end of the spindle and slightly "lock" them together.
Put your gear puller "arms" behind the nuts, and you'll see that the point of
the gear puller drive bolt will fit nicely into the end of the axle. Now,
GENTLY apply some torque to the puller, and then tap the end of the puller
GENTLY with a hammer (wearing goggles of course). Keep up this process and it
should come right out, all without a bunch of hammer dents and knicks.

I've found that with the pre-load from the puller, these guys pop right off.
Don't forget to use a little anti-seize around the spindle shoulder when you
put it back in....should help for next time.

Most of the used spindles I have seen were not ruined because of bearings or
other wear issues, but because somebody beat on them with a hammer....

Hope this helps!

Colorado Jeff




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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:28:06 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Holley Tweaks

I found that the best tweak for a Holley is called an EDELBROCK!

Sorry, couldn't resist....

Colorado Jeff

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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:45:20 -0400
From: Barry
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1980 Chrome

Yes, I know this is the 61-79 list. My major work I am currently doing
is on the restoration of a 1965 step side but my wife has an 80 King Cab
that needs to be repainted, bad rust on the hood and top of the cab. Now
to my question, can anyone give me instructions on how to remove the
trim from around the windshield. Before I do much sanding or blasting, I
need to remove the trim to make sure the rust has not migrated down
behind the trim. I would like to save the trim if possible, it seems to
be in pretty good shape. Is the trim held on with clips or what? Any and
all help is greatly appreciated.
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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 13:48:52 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:CALLING ALL CHEMISTS

At 01:09 AM 22/07/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Yes, motor oil !

I would like to thank everybody for their great replies, esp pat brown and
kerry walker. (Some time in the late afternoon, a little after quarter
past four, I will have to get together with Steve D and have a chat about
it (once I get down to that part of the world)).

My decision is: Listen to the Ford Manual! The t/case is not
pressure-lubed (no oil pump) but it does have the little needle bearings
way inside. There are oil passages in each of the shafts for lube to move
thru. Given that the thing is pretty much always engaged anyway, and that
the gears are all driving in the same direction (no change in power vector
from lengthwise to sideways, like in the diff) the pressure shudn't be that
high. I will use SAE 50 motor oil here.

As for the tranny, when I put extreme duty 80w90 semisynthetic gear oil in
my tranny, and added some MolySlip (which was supposed to quiet the whine
and didn't) I ended up with a transmission that was almost impossible to
gear down into 2d from 3d, and that clashed from 2d to 3d when upshifting.
Bunk!

Pat's post clearly explained the need for SOME friction in the tranny to
make it work right, and I guess that means SAE 50 motor oil, like the
manual sez. I may also add a bit of slick 50 or something like that to
protect the gears. The synchros are ribbed anyway to encourage friction.
My only question now is, how shud I go about cleaning out the gear oil from
the transmission? Shud I rinse it out with solvent then do a quick oil
change after running for awhile? Or shud I just dump the gear oil and then
toss in the motor oil, then do a quick oil change (i.e. skip the solvent
rinse step).

Even tho my 410 will be producing heaps of power, I don't think I'll need
to run gear oil in my tranny unless, of course, I happen upon one of Azie's
Cammers in the junkyard and use it instead.

As for being slapped around, I'm just setting myself up for a good roasting
once I stick my foot in my mouth (known to happen quite often). "The
higher they climb, the harder they fall" as the saying goes!

Thanks all!


marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:55:12 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power (Keith)

At 01:07 PM 7/22/98 -0700, you wrote:
>>
>> The 1 bbl carb on the 240/300 motors is not a real deluxe item to start
>> with, and it has the big disadvantage that it sits right over the
>> exhaust manifold. My girlfriend used to have trouble restarting hers
>> after a good hot soak, and I made a 1" thick plastic spacer that sits
>> between the carb and manifold to help insulate it from the hot intake.
>
>Steve, Where did you come up with a 1" thick piece of plastic? What kind
>of plastic was it?
>
>

I used 2 extra gaskets with gasket seal (not silicon) between
each gasket. Works great.

- -Ken


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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 13:55:11 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: FTE 61-79 - HEY TONY MARINO!

At 10:15 PM 21/07/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Marko demanded:

Hiya Tony:

When you're not too busy tossing around footballs in Fla. with your cousin
(or is that just a nasty rumor?) could you look in your 78 manual and tell
us all what kinda oil YOUR manual recommends for the NP 205 transfer case,
and the NP 435 tranny? See, my manual for 71 doesn't really differentiate
among the chain-drive 203 and the gear-drive 205.


Thanks!

marko

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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:14:20 -0400
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - HEY TONY MARINO!

In the mean time I'll check the '79 manual and see what's up.

John Miller, FoMoCoNUT Gibralter.net
96 F-350 Reg Cab XLT, 4x4, 460 w/ A4OD, My Baby "Baloo"
75 F-100 Reg Cab Ranger, 2wd, 360, C6, Daily Driver "Lucy"
and "always" looking ! ! !
- ----------
> From: Marko Maryniak
>
could you look in your 78 manual and tell
> us all what kinda oil YOUR manual recommends for the NP 205 transfer
case,
> and the NP 435 tranny? See, my manual for 71 doesn't really
differentiate
> among the chain-drive 203 and the gear-drive 205.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 14:44:42 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FE Holley Tweaks

>I found that the best tweak for a Holley is called an EDELBROCK!
>
>Sorry, couldn't resist....
>
>Colorado Jeff

I had a holley 1850 on my truck for a while. It was always pure misery
trying to change jetting since it would always take a new gasket set,
hours of frustration and lots of prayer to get it to stop leaking every
time I changed jets. Even with new gaskets and lots of luck it would
always weep small amounts of fuel from an assortment of places..
Finally one evening when it just would NOT quit leaking (again) I removed
it and laid it on the ground and took my biggest sledge hammer and beat
it into little pieces. 0-:=
It felt SO good!
Went out the next day and bought an E-brock and put it on. Best thing I
ever did to the truck. It's way easier to tune, and I can keep paint on
my intake manifold now that it's not bathed in fuel constantly.
I'm usually quite patient with equipment, but the holley managed to push
my frustration level to a new all time high...


Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 14:44:40 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power (Keith)

>> The 1 bbl carb on the 240/300 motors is not a real deluxe item to start
>> with, and it has the big disadvantage that it sits right over the
>> exhaust manifold. My girlfriend used to have trouble restarting hers
>> after a good hot soak, and I made a 1" thick plastic spacer that sits
>> between the carb and manifold to help insulate it from the hot intake.

>Steve, Where did you come up with a 1" thick piece of plastic? What kind
>of plastic was it?

I dunno what kind it was. It was black and had something like layers
of fiberglass inside it. I found a roughly 6" x 6" block of it at the
salvage yard... I used most of it for a project at work and had just
enough leftover for under a carb. I think it cost me about $1.
I used one of those cup saws that fits in a power drill to make the big
hole, and sawed the outer part to shape with a jig saw.
It made a big difference in restarting the motor after a hot-soak.
If You want some, I'll keep my eyes open at the salvage yard next time
I go, which may be next week since I need to get some more stainless
tubing to finish up a job.

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:08:32 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:CALLING ALL CHEMISTS

At 01:48 PM 7/22/98 -0700, you wrote:
>At 01:09 AM 22/07/98 -0400, you wrote:
>>Yes, motor oil !
>manual sez. I may also add a bit of slick 50 or something like that to
>protect the gears. The synchros are ribbed anyway to encourage friction.

Before you put in Slick 50, consider the fact that the FTC
fined them for false advertising and says that not a single
claim can be backed up. Go to the Misc section on our web
site and click on the link to the Snake Oil article. You'll
never consider Slick 50 again. Its amazing, how even after
a settlement with the FTE, people still consider using the
product.



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 15:16:37 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:CALLING ALL CHEMISTS

At 06:08 PM 22/07/98 -0400, you wrote:
>At 01:48 PM 7/22/98 -0700, you wrote:
>>At 01:09 AM 22/07/98 -0400, you wrote:
>>>Yes, motor oil !
>>manual sez. I may also add a bit of slick 50 or something like that to
>>protect the gears. The synchros are ribbed anyway to encourage friction.
>
>Before you put in Slick 50, consider the fact that the FTC
>fined them for false advertising and says that not a single
>claim can be backed up. Go to the Misc section on our web
>site and click on the link to the Snake Oil article. You'll
>never consider Slick 50 again. Its amazing, how even after
>a settlement with the FTE

Ken, is this some Freudian slip now that we're (gasp!) a CORPORATION???

I know about the slick 50. I really wouldn't consider running it. Marvel
Mystery Oil has its advantages I know about (wintergreen oil) but all that
Teflon stuff is just (dare I say it) bunk. Besides, I never intend to jack
my truck up, run the transmission dry of oil, and spray it with a garden
hose. Maybe if that was my idea of having a good time, I would try Motor
up or slick 50 or some other concoction...

See Azie, even my minor "slick-ups" get noticed.

Thanks Ken, for giving me what I deserve.


marko ;-]

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 15:21:43 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power (Keith)

Thanks for your message at 02:44 PM 7/22/98 -0700, sdelanty sonic.net. Your
message was:
>
> I dunno what kind it was. It was black and had something like layers
> of fiberglass inside it. I found a roughly 6" x 6" block of it at the
> salvage yard... I used most of it for a project at work and had just
> enough leftover for under a carb. I think it cost me about $1.
> I used one of those cup saws that fits in a power drill to make the big
> hole, and sawed the outer part to shape with a jig saw.
> It made a big difference in restarting the motor after a hot-soak.
> If You want some, I'll keep my eyes open at the salvage yard next time
> I go, which may be next week since I need to get some more stainless
> tubing to finish up a job.
>
Do I smell a cottage industry here?
Dennis L. Pearson
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/dlp.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 15:23:35 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:CALLING ALL CHEMISTS

Thanks for your message at 06:08 PM 7/22/98 -0400, Ken Payne. Your message
was:
>At 01:48 PM 7/22/98 -0700, you wrote:
>>At 01:09 AM 22/07/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Before you put in Slick 50, consider the fact that the FTC
>fined them for false advertising and says that not a single
>claim can be backed up. Go to the Misc section on our web
>site and click on the link to the Snake Oil article. You'll
>never consider Slick 50 again. Its amazing, how even after
>a settlement

with the FTE

FTE got money from Slick 50 ? Cool!



Dennis L. Pearson
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/dlp.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 15:24:32 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Trouble removing fromt axle

At 04:28 PM 22/07/98 EDT, you wrote:
>I was hoping someone would ask this question!
>
>Hey Ben, the part you are trying to remove is called a spindle, which has an
>interference fit with the steering knuckle.


Huh???

Ben said '77 F250. Did Ben mean 4wd? Can we assume that, since he said he
wanted the front "axle"?

If it's a Dana 44-6-hf simlar to the 71 setup, there are 6 bolts holding
the spindle on, and not 5. And they come out when you remove the brake
backing plate. Then, you can either remove the two steering knuckle
kingpins (if it's a closed-knuckle axle, and I dunno if it was in 77) and
then pull the whole knuckle/spindle assembly off, splitting them later (you
could drive it out from the inside with a brass punch) or you cd use Jeff's
method.

If this isn't a 4wd, then what are we talking about?

marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:41:03 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - engine losing power

>The following problem has been occurring on a fairly regular basis: When
the truck is
>fully warmed up and usually traveling between 35 and 55 mph the engine
>loses power and will no longer accelerate.

Another thought..........My company work truck (ch*vy) has been vapor
locking this week with the extreme temperatures. Sounds very much like your
problem, if it only happens after a good heat soak, (hot shut down) I would
think that may be your problem. Mine hasn't quit on me yet but a few times
I have been down to
with your problem.

later,
dale c

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 11:52:38 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine loses power

From: Roberta
>I've been having problems with my 1965 F100. It has the original 240 6
>cyl. engine in it with the manual 3 speed transmission. The following
>problem has been occurring on a fairly regular basis: When the truck is
>fully warmed up and usually traveling between 35 and 55 mph the engine
>loses power and will no longer accelerate.

I had this problem with an I6 once. It turned out to be a crack in
the intake manifold. It was hard to find the problem because it only
happened when I was driving it. OK, I never really found it but a
junkyard manifold fixed it. :)

Deacon
deconblu gte.net http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
==============================================
Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm
==============================================



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 20:01:35 EDT
From: Trs2000 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - PS brackets for 352?

Thanks for the quick way to convert cubes to liters! As for the 460, I'll
try to look for a 390 motor.



Thanks all
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 20:18:12, -0500
From: GEGK00A prodigy.com ( DAN LEE)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rE: ENGINE LOSES POWER

Sounds like a sticky needle valve. Try tapping the carb float chamber.
(pull off the road first.)

Dan Lee
'53 F100
351C-4V
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:12:12 -0400
From: "Jerry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: CHANGING VALUE OF R-12

> Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 21:44:08 -0700
> From: sdelanty sonic.net
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: R-12 cost.

> It>was recharged since R-12 here in Northern Louisiana is down to
$20.00 per pound.

> $20 a lb? Wow, that is coming down...
> Guess I should sell all those cans of R-12 I've got stashed in the
garage before the price gets too low. Hehehe... (-:

> Steve
> Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

...You think you've got problems ? ? I've got all these 30 lb cylinders !
! ! ! ! (Please note the lack of Hehehehe's )
Jerry
1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW
1970 F100 (ret)



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