61-79-list-digest Tuesday, July 14 1998 Volume 02 : Number 371



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - '70 F-250, Tires & Wheels + fix it in a can
FTE 61-79 - Burned valves
FTE 61-79 - Rust in rear axle
FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 F & 70 R Sources
Re: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Rebuild
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 woes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Burned valves
Re: FTE 61-79 - Burned valves
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rust in rear axle
RE: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 F & 70 R Sources
Re: FTE 61-79 - Burned valves
FTE 61-79 - wheel, tailgate help
FTE 61-79 - Re: 390 woes
Re: FTE 61-79 - wheel, tailgate help
FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Weight
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 gears
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: FTE Incorporation
RE: FTE 61-79 - dual exhaus
FTE 61-79 - FTE Screen Saver
Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE Screen Saver
Re: FTE 61-79 - No Brakes, First thing in the morning.
FTE 61-79 - Re: 134 vs R12
FTE 61-79 - High Mileage FE's
FTE 61-79 - FE Oil Pans esp 4X4
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rust in rear axle
FTE 61-79 - Pesky oil Pan DRIP
FTE 61-79 - 410?
FTE 61-79 - need to get rid of dipstick location
Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: FTE Incorporation
FTE 61-79 - would 3.73's be good for 390
FTE 61-79 - I'm Back! Got brakes too :-)

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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 11:42:16 -0600
From: "Michael White"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '70 F-250, Tires & Wheels + fix it in a can

- -----Original Message-----
From: Pat Brown
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, July 12, 1998 11:58 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '70 F-250, Tires & Wheels


>Well, the last trip did it. I'm ready for new tires on the crew cab.
>I'm getting a little suspicious of my old, rusty split rims. Not to
>mention, $30 minimum to fix a flat, if I can find a place that will
>fix them.
>
>I've been thinking of going to Steve's favorite shopping spot (Pick
>& Pull) and finding a set of rims off a later truck. Help me out here
>guys, what should I be looking for? Here are my needs:
>
>'70 F-250 Crew cab, 2WD, 7500 lb Max GVW, 149" WB
>Current rims: OEM split rims, 8 lug, stamped "69", "J", "B", "US"
>Current tires: Big-O, 7.5x16 LT , Load range "D"
>I have the original hub caps (~12" x 4"), I'd like to be able to keep
>them if possible.
>


Yes, those split rims are no fun at all (remove and discard). I have a
set of "Accuride" rims (stamped on the inside of rim) on my 69 F250 (from a
92 Ford F250 4x4) with Goodyear Wrangler HT 235/85 R16 load range E, and
the old hubcaps fit nicely. These rims also have the large hole to fit the
full floating rear axle. You could probably find a set of 5 wheels similar
to this in your local scrapyard for a good price.

Oh yea.... you are very right in not beliving in the "fix it in a can"
method of repair. I used stop leak once for my radiator and it froze up the
thermostat which blew the motor. New "4 core heat busters" are spendy (about
$300), but I'll special order one if needed (to go with new engine).

Michael

69 F250 360 auto (needs carb kit or.....)
69 F250 390 4b T18 Posi 3.54


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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 14:01:38 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Burned valves

JumpinFord (Darrell) writes: >> Upon removal of the heads I confirmed my
dads suspicions of burnt valves #3 . but I also found that the cyls
are in great shape and was wondering if just doing a valve job will do ok.
The motor has about 89,000 miles. Any input is greatly appreciated

Do the valve job and put it back together. Any FE is worth at least
150,000 miles prior to really needing rings, and usually 250,000.

Burned valves are usually the culprit of too little clearance between the
rockers and the valve stem. I know the FE rockers that came on your engine
are not adjustable.

Make sure the shop that does the valve grinding also knows to take an
appropiate amount off the top of each valve stem they grind. This is a
failure of lots of shops not familiar with the "fixed rocker" of the FE.
You can still purchase the adjustable rockers and push rods for the solid
lifter versions if you can get a parts guru that knows what to look up.
Try getting them for a 1963 thru 1967 427, if you are interested in this.
They are also 1.6:1 ratio rather than the 1.5:1 of the stamped non
adjustable ones. If my memory serves me correctly I gave about $2.50 ea for
the rockers and $1.50 or so for the pushrods on the last one I converted
about 10 years ago.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 14:33:22 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rust in rear axle

Michael writes: >>Anyone got some good ideas on how to clean rust from
the inside of the axle tubes?

I've never tried this, but could you somehow get a wire cup brush on some
sort of flexible shaft and run it thru ea side of the axle using a variable
speed drill so as not to do much damage if it gets all skewed and out of
shape???????? Then stick a magnet on the end of some pipe and run it in and
out a couple of times to bring out the residue....... Just trying to keep
the mind open!!!!!

Maybe a large cylinder hone on some sort of long stiff shaft ??????

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 11:48:21 -0700
From: Vogt Family
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 F & 70 R Sources

I am looking to put a Dana 60 front and 70 rear under my '61 to handle
the 429. Being a cheapskate, I would like to know the kind of "normal"
pickups they came under, in order to hopefully get one off a private
party's donor truck, rather than from a truck dismantler who will charge
the full value. And incidentally, what is the full value for these? I
am looking for around ~3.5 something gear ratio.

Birken
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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 15:25:39 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Rebuild

Hey Marko!

Don't waste your gas money- I just scanned in all 11 pages of my shop
manual w/ the 205 breakdown. I just posted this 'cause if anybody else
wants the jpg's of the pages besides Jeff, I'd be happy to e-mail 'em out
to ya'.

Tony
tony pscico.com
www.pscico.com/~tony

>Jeff:
>
>Crap! I hate only getting email at work! You see, you emailed me on
>Saturday, I went to the shop on Sunday, and now it's Monday and I left my
>manual at the shop!
>
>If you can wait a few days, I will go out to Randy's (30 miles) and get it
>and photocopy it.
>
>These things can get confusing.

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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 12:55:21 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 woes

>After getting all the great feedback on whether or not I should buy a crate
>motor. Well, I've decided to build my own. Which brings me to my next
>question. Upon removal of the heads I confirmed my dads suspicions of burnt
>valves #3 . but I also found that the cyls are in great shape and was
>wondering if just doing a valve job will do ok. The motor has about 89,000
>miles. Any input is greatly appreciated


89K isn't a whole lotta miles on an FE. You may get by just fine with
appropriate head work... I'd certainly look in on the timing chain also,
it may be about time for one.

When I got my 390, it had 129K miles on it and I did a "3/4" rebuild on it.

Mine got a bunch of head work, timing chain/spockets (my chain was so loose
it was slapping the inside of the cover at idle!), turn crank -.010"/.010"
(it was a little worn and had a couple grooves in it), new bearings, oil pump,
cam/lifters, and all gaskets/seals. The cylinder bores measured up pretty
good and pistons were fine, so I honed it lightly and slid a fresh set of
rings on to the origional pistons.

I figured I'm good to go for 100+Kmiles before I need to bore it and do
a "full" rebuild on it. Got 41+K on it now and running strong. No blowby,
and burns about 1qt of oil per 2500 miles. I can live with that...

What You do depends on what You wanna spend (time and $$) and how many miles
You expect to get out of it. Have You pulled any main/rod caps off and
examined the bearings?
If the cylinder bores are still nice I'd examine the bearings and timing chain
and decide what to do fom there.

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

Bigamy is having one wife too many. Monogamy is the same.
-- Oscar Wilde

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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 12:55:26 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Burned valves

>Make sure the shop that does the valve grinding also knows to take an
>appropiate amount off the top of each valve stem they grind. This is a
>failure of lots of shops not familiar with the "fixed rocker" of the FE.

Yes! make sure they get all the valve tips at the correct heights!
Hydraulic lifters only have a limited adjustment range and it's easy to
get "out of range" if the valve tips are too high or if the head gasket
surface has been milled. A good shop will also shim the bottoms of the
valve springs if necessary to get the installed spring heights correct
again after a valve job.
And if they mill the head gasket surface, make sure they also mill the
intake gasket surface by the same amount, so the intake manifold still
fits correctly...

>You can still purchase the adjustable rockers and push rods for the solid
>lifter versions if you can get a parts guru that knows what to look up.
>Try getting them for a 1963 thru 1967 427, if you are interested in this.

Adjustable rockers and pushrods are also available from Crane.

>They are also 1.6:1 ratio rather than the 1.5:1 of the stamped non
>adjustable ones. If my memory serves me correctly I gave about $2.50 ea for
>the rockers and $1.50 or so for the pushrods on the last one I converted
>about 10 years ago.

It's been too long since You've been inside an FE, Azie... (-:
FE rockers are usually either 1.73:1 or 1.76:1
Never seen a stamped one either...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

Bigamy is having one wife too many. Monogamy is the same.
-- Oscar Wilde

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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 13:02:16 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Burned valves

At 02:01 PM 13/07/98 -0400, you wrote:

>You can still purchase the adjustable rockers and push rods for the solid
>lifter versions if you can get a parts guru that knows what to look up.
>Try getting them for a 1963 thru 1967 427, if you are interested in this.
>They are also 1.6:1 ratio rather than the 1.5:1 of the stamped non
>adjustable ones. If my memory serves me correctly I gave about $2.50 ea for
>the rockers and $1.50 or so for the pushrods on the last one I converted
>about 10 years ago.

Yeah, and gas was 15 cents a gallon! Boy I'd sure like to know where you
buy your parts, Azie! And if there are any left! I'd pay up to a hundred
dollars for a good 406! ;^]

Seriously though, Azie's dead right about the valve grind. If you install
hardened seats (as you should) and new valves (a good idea) you will probly
end up with stock height. You can get under, stock, and oversize pushrods
too.

But Azie, my non-adjustable rockers on my 410 are cast, not stamped! I
know that's what you mean, but stamped just sounds too much like something
a garage man's companion would use.

marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>
>
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>
>

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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 13:04:14 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rust in rear axle

At 02:33 PM 13/07/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Michael writes: >>Anyone got some good ideas on how to clean rust from
>the inside of the axle tubes?
>
>I've never tried this, but could you somehow get a wire cup brush on some
>sort of flexible shaft and run it thru ea side of the axle using a variable
>speed drill so as not to do much damage if it gets all skewed and out of
>shape???????? Then stick a magnet on the end of some pipe and run it in and
>out a couple of times to bring out the residue....... Just trying to keep
>the mind open!!!!!
>
>Maybe a large cylinder hone on some sort of long stiff shaft ??????
>

I've got it. Unless you can find a pipe cleaner or a caterpillar big
enough, here's what I suggest you do:

Go to your hardware store that sells chimney cleaning supplies. They'll
have chimney brushes in various sizes, get the smallest one you can. Cut
the bristles with sidecutters/whatever to about 2" diameter bigger than the
axle tube hole.
Brush away!


marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 16:41:34 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 F & 70 R Sources

check out 70's f-350

i have a 79 with a 60 front and 80 rear.

you may be able to find a corporate rear - they are stronger yet and sometimes easier to find..

sleddog

- ----------
From: Vogt Family[SMTP:vogt oro.net]
Sent: Monday, July 13, 1998 2:48 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 F & 70 R Sources

I am looking to put a Dana 60 front and 70 rear under my '61 to handle
the 429. Being a cheapskate, I would like to know the kind of "normal"
pickups they came under, in order to hopefully get one off a private
party's donor truck, rather than from a truck dismantler who will charge
the full value. And incidentally, what is the full value for these? I
am looking for around ~3.5 something gear ratio.

Birken
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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 13:41:03 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Burned valves

Steve wrote:

> Yes! make sure they get all the valve tips at the correct heights!
> Hydraulic lifters only have a limited adjustment range and it's easy to
> get "out of range" if the valve tips are too high or if the head gasket
> surface has been milled. A good shop will also shim the bottoms of the
> valve springs if necessary to get the installed spring heights correct
> again after a valve job.
> And if they mill the head gasket surface, make sure they also mill the
> intake gasket surface by the same amount, so the intake manifold still
> fits correctly...
>
>>You can still purchase the adjustable rockers and push rods for the solid
>>lifter versions if you can get a parts guru that knows what to look up.
>>Try getting them for a 1963 thru 1967 427, if you are interested in this.
>
> Adjustable rockers and pushrods are also available from Crane.

Very true about the intake manifold milling.

Now, instead of all of us pontificating about all this stuff, you
(Jumpinford) should go out and buy yourself a book called "How to rebuild
your Big Block Ford" written by Steve Christ (yes) which costs about 15
bucks (ten times more than one of Azie's rockers) from Internet Racers'
Supply.

This book will tell you EVERYTHING you need to know to do your engine
(including heads) and will at least make you a completely knowledgeable
consumer of machine shop work. You will know how to ask the right
questions to see if the guys know what they are doing. The book even
contains specs on how much to mill the intake manifold if you are milling
the heads (it is proportional but not equal).

One last thing we can all agree on: when you replace your intake manifold
THROW AWAY the cork front and rear gaskets. Clean the mating surfaces of
the block and manifold with GUN WASH or LACQUER THINNERS (not turpentine or
gas). At the very least use PPG wax and grease remover. Lay a 1/4" bead of
silicone along that strip of metal on the block where the cork would go,
and a bit extra in the corners at the head joint. Let it semi-set, (a bit
more than skinning off) then lay a thin bead on top of the original bead.
Immediately carefully install the intake manifold (don't forget valley pan
and intake to head gaskets!) and torque down. Look for an even bead of
silicone squishing out front and rear.

This works much better than the cork which is ALWAYS too thick. And it
seals better. I have found the cork to dry and crack quickly. I also use
rubber valve cover and oilpan gaskets rather than the cork/paper ones.

marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 16:17:57 +0000
From: "Jay Fleming"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - wheel, tailgate help

I have a couple of questions regarding my '72 f-100. First, what
year's wheels will fit this model. Someone near here has a set of
'97 16" wheels with the 5-bolt pattern for sale cheap. Will these
fit?

The second question is regarding the tailgate. Can anyone tell me
how to get the large "FORD" panel off of mine so that I can repaint
it?

Thanks for your help,

Jay Fleming
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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 15:59:00 -0500
From: lordjanusz juno.com (Paul M Radecki)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 390 woes

>
>Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 10:19:19 -0700
>From: "Bill Beyer"
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 woes
>
>OTOH I have seen engines get a nice new top end that seals like it's
>s'posed to and then watched the oil get shot out of the dipstick tube
>when
>the blowby overpressurized the crankcase. Maybe if the cylinders are
>truly
>in very good shape with minor/no grooves and very little glazing then
>it
>will be OK but there is a significant risk factor in doing just the
>heads
>on a motor with almost 90K.
>

I've got a 360 in about the same condition. Gonna do a complete rebuild;
better safe than sorry, and I'll be able to clean up and paint the block
and engine bay. Besides, it will be good practice for my next engine
project (stroker Windsor for my '94 F150 after the 6 dies).
lordjanusz

'94 F150 (300ci) '73 F100 (360ci) '97 Saturn (Caddy
Northstar)(Yeah, I wish)


_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 14:32:05 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - wheel, tailgate help

>The second question is regarding the tailgate. Can anyone tell me
>how to get the large "FORD" panel off of mine so that I can repaint
>it?
>
>Thanks for your help,
>
>Jay Fleming


Jay:

Very carefully.

Seriously, if you want to remove it, you'll have to buy something called a
spotweld drill, drill out the spotwelds, then remove the panel.

Why not paint it on the tailgate?

Or are you referring to some kind of chrome trim piece?


marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 19:09:45 EDT
From: BlueOval77 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Engine Weight

Aloha! I recall someone asking about engine weight, however do not recall
which engine he was interested in. (Sorry, I'm kinda behind the times due to
an extended off-island vacation.) :)

FYI, the 351W weighs 510 lbs. Hope this helps.

John
91 Mustang GT
77 F-150 Ranger 4x4
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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 21:02:17 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 gears

Forwarded for: Marko Maryniak

At 08:55 AM 12/07/98 EDT, you wrote:
>Does anyone need a set of 3:73 gears (ring + pinion) for a Dana 60? They came
>out of a 72' F-250 and are in good shape. Let me know and they're yours...you
>just cover shipping.
>
>Colorado Jeff
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>
Jeff, you wouldn't also have a set of those for a 44 6f? I need a matched
set for my truck. It has 410's now. Actually it ain't too bad but a bit
taller gearset would let me cruise at 70, not 60.

BTW how did you get them out? Do you have a housing spreader? Is that
difficult to do?

marko


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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 22:34:36 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: FTE Incorporation

Ford Truck Enthusiasts, Inc. received its paperwork from the
State of Georgia on Saturday. It held its organizational
meeting yesterday evening and is now operating as a corporation.

Don't expect to see many changes in the day to day operations
of the site other than improvements I've discussed in the
past. The formation of a corporation was a natural result
of our growth and exposure. The possibility of a club still
exists and is being discussed off the list with some list
members.

Thanks,
Ken Payne
President (and still list admin), Ford Truck Enthusiasts, Inc.

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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 21:47:07 -0500
From: Brett McCoy
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - dual exhaus

When I put in the flowmaster I needed to have it at just a slight angle
to clear the frame rail on the passenger side. There is still at least
a couple of inches on the drive shaft side. All in all a very good
fit. I had all the stock heat shields and they seem to cover it all and
protect the bed and the access from the bottom. No problems with ground
clearance or anything else. If fact for a 2wd truck I am always amazed
at how high this truck sits. You can look eye to eye with $30,000 Ch#vy
Z?? offroad and this truck only cost me about $6,000 so far. Now if
this was the 4X4 then I would be looking at his roof, as it should be.
;-)

>Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 11:50:39 -0500
>From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - dual exhaust

>>Then followed it with a 3" in and out
>>flowmaster muffler. Tailpipe exits in stock location, passenger side
>>behind rear wheel.

>Sounds like a really nice system, Brett.......very close to what I am
>planning for my '79. How much room did you have between the driveshaft and
>frame rail with the Flowmaster?
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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 21:51:18 -0500
From: Brett McCoy
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FTE Screen Saver

Well as promised the screen saver is done. All in all I think it is
fairly cool. IN any case Ken was kind enough to post it on the sight.
I will also have it on my home page when I get it going in the next week
or so. So go download and enjoy. We now have our own screen saver for
the "Ford Truck Enthusiast" in us all.

- -B


>Hi Ken,
>
>Just finished up the first cut on the FTE screen saver. Thought I would
>give you the first look at it. If you approve and like it pop it out on
>the web site for all to enjoy. Thanks and let me know what you think.
>
>-B

The screen save is now on the web site in the "Misc" section.
I may be forced to temporarily take it down in a month as
our web space is getting low and it may take a while before
I can get more.

Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 23:48:46 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE Screen Saver

Exactly where on the site is it? I can't find it
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Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 00:07:45 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - No Brakes, First thing in the morning.

i installed a set of high content metallic front pads on my 78 4x4 once and
they
were a bear to stop first thing in the morning but after the first time they
were fine
i guess they just needed to heat up.those things lasted about 12 years and
70,000 miles,and i pull boats,trailers loaded etc. i don't even remember where
i bought them,wish i could find another set.
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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 23:23:17 -0500
From: "Dennis K. Austin"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 134 vs R12

I sure hope that R12 is making come back! Here in Northern Louisiana we are in a
drought with temps running over 105 degrees. I have access to new cars with 134 and
older cars with R12. The older cars get cooler faster and maintain a colder air
temp than the 134 equipped cars. As a matter of fact in these high temps in traffic
the 134 doesn't seem to be cooling well until you get out on the highway.

The local A/C guys claim that it takes more pressure for the 134 to cool and idle on
a car doesn't get it. The car needs to be moving to get the cooler air temps, which
is exactly what is happening. Even my wife's new Pontiac GrandAm SE with the 2.4
DOHC motor doesn't cool well until its moving down the road. Our fleet of Police
packaged Crown Vics at work also have the same results, yet I can take out our
favorite an older Police packaged Caprice with R12 and I can get it almost cold
enough to snow.

Here is the neat thing... when driving cars with R12 in these high temps I find
that when I exit the vehicle my glasses fog up. However, this doesn't happen with
the 134 equipped cars running the A/C on high. I have also found that keeping one
window on a 134 vehicle slightly cracked open the A/C works better....seeming to
cool better.

And now the real reason I want to see R12 come back.... I have located a car in a
local yard with an aftermarket A/C system that I am going to get for my '65 F100. I
have already been promised I can have it. I am told its a box type unit under the
dash rather than one of those that goes acroos the bottom of the dash. I will let
you guys know how it goes.

- -=DENNIS=-

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 00:35:57 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - High Mileage FE's

> OTOH I have seen engines get a nice new top end that seals like it's
> s'posed to and then watched the oil get shot out of the dipstick tube when
> the blowby overpressurized the crankcase. Maybe if the cylinders are truly
> in very good shape with minor/no grooves and very little glazing then it
> will be OK but there is a significant risk factor in doing just the heads
> on a motor with almost 90K.

Alot depends on what kind of miles those 90k are. In granny's Galaxie
running a 3000 mile maintenence schedule it isn't much, if it's Jack the
plumber's Bobcat hauler on a 5000 mile maintenence schedule, well.....

If it isn't knocking, smoking, or using oil, I'd just do the heads and
reseal everything good and run it. A timing set never hurts either.

Actually I'm considering pulling the 390 out of my '67 (182,000 miles)
and freshening it up a little to get me by when the engine in the '65
goes (15,000 miles on an awful rebuild, and sounds like a threshing
machine) That old tired engine is a better engine than the one I'm
running!
- -
- -
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 01:22:29 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Oil Pans esp 4X4

>
> Well, all I can say is at least I caught it before the engine was painted.
>
> Anybody got any ideas on how to remove that plate, and reinstall it?
> Rivets again, or just nuts & bolts? Threaded plate on the inside? Anybody
> ever bought a gasket for one of these things?

Mine does the same thing, not much, but enough to draw dirt. I'd drill
out the rivets and make a threaded plate myself. I'd bet that a black
RTV sandwich in leiu of a gasket, would never leak again. It will seep
around the tube a little too unless you seal it, I smeared a little
black on it when I installed mine. It still leaks a little around the
plate though, since I didn't reseal the plate, asssuming that the tube
was the sole culprit.

Another good use for black RTV on FE's (or anything else for that
matter) is to replace the cork oil wicks that are supposed to be intake
end seals. A good thick bead, and set it down. Leave it there, if you
take it back up, you have to redo it. The quality of seal is nothing
short of amazing. I use it on anything that has to seal oil.

More advice, thread seal (Indian Head is OK) your pan bolts, for some
reason that I can't see, some of them will weep unless you do, no matter
how straight and well torqued you get the pan. I'm sure you know this,
but I'll say it for anyone who's never done it. The bolt holes on the
pan (valve covers too) have to be re-sprung, and the pan has to be
straightened (real important if it's been over-torqued) every time you
drop it after running a while. I use a little ball peen and tap lightly
from the rail side of each hole to restore the spring to it. (a little
goes a long way )Tapping a flat dolly from the block side with the pan
supported and a piece of flat steel on the outside supporting the rail
will straighten it out. Keeping it square is the most important thing
here . Straighten it out before you peen the holes. Mine had been
overtorqued so bad that you could see the rolls around it from bolt to
bolt. It now is 99.5% leak free. Another advantage of the FE is a flat
oil pan, so with the exception of a little out of the front cover and
rear main seals, there's little excuse to have a leaker.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 01:32:39 -0600
From: "Michael White"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rust in rear axle

>>Michael writes: >>Anyone got some good ideas on how to clean rust from
>>the inside of the axle tubes?
..................
>>
>>I've never tried this, but could you somehow get a wire cup brush on some
>>sort of flexible shaft and run it thru ea side of the axle using a
variable
>>speed drill so as not to do much damage if it gets all skewed and out of
>>shape???????? Then stick a magnet on the end of some pipe and run it in
and
>>out a couple of times to bring out the residue....... Just trying to keep
>>the mind open!!!!!
>>
>>Maybe a large cylinder hone on some sort of long stiff shaft ??????


....................
>I've got it. Unless you can find a pipe cleaner or a caterpillar big
>enough, here's what I suggest you do:
>
>Go to your hardware store that sells chimney cleaning supplies. They'll
>have chimney brushes in various sizes, get the smallest one you can. Cut
>the bristles with sidecutters/whatever to about 2" diameter bigger than the
>axle tube hole.
>Brush away!
>
>
>marko in vancouver

First I tried some 3' x 1/4" alltread and a mini air die grinder (24,000
rpm) with scotchbrite pads bolted to the end (double nuts each side) until
the rod bent, then switched to a 3' x 1/2" allthread and an electric drill
(800 rpm). (Now that the work is all done, I think of these next ideas) I
should have tried using an old worn out (missing fine bristles) 3" wire
wheel brush, and the mini die grinder, because a new 3" wheel is too stiff
to fit a 2.5" hole. At least I was able to use a new wheel (coarse) and die
grinder on the axles while I had them out. Hmmm..... perhaps allthread made
of some super alloy (titanium?) that won't flex much at 24,000 rpm's, or a
1/4" hardened bolt with the head removed (shank to fit die grinder), would
allow me to use the die grinder a little more effectively for the next time?

Michael

69 F250 360 auto
69 F250 390 T18 Posi 3.54


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 08:01:14 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Pesky oil Pan DRIP

Marko writes: >>Anybody got any ideas on how to remove that plate, and
reinstall it? Rivets again, or just nuts & bolts? Threaded plate on the
inside? Anybody ever bought a gasket for one of these things?

I've never experienced this, but I would probably drill out the old rivits,
install a new gasket(even if it was one I made from some old cardboard
laying around and cover it with black silicone) and re-rivit it back. But
I have a blind riviter. If I didn't own the riviter already I would
probably use small screws/flat washers/nuts, and Brad the excess threads.
JMHO

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 15:18:25 -0400
From: pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 410?

Marko, did you say you got your 410 from a Murcury Marauder? I found one
in the junkyard saturday and was not sure exactly. The engine did not
have anything on it giving its size. It had a two barrel carb and tall
valve covers with Mercury stamped on them. Did all Marauders have 410's?

The guy gave me a quote on what he charges for rebuildable engines. He
wants up to $400.00 US depending on the condition. Kind of high to me but
I am cheap.

Jon E. Purut
Pickup65 juno.com
JCPurut worldnet.att.net
Visit my site http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~JCPurut

1964 F500 Looking for an auxillary transmission
1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
1965 F100
1977 F150
1970 Mustang Fastback


_____________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 08:25:43 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - need to get rid of dipstick location

While puttin my 390 together(390 out of a mercury monterey) i noticed
the oil dipstick goes through the block but my trucks pan the dipstick
goes through the pan....Is there anyway of plugging the block ???
- --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 05:37:09 +0000
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: FTE Incorporation

Ken Payne wrote:

> Ford Truck Enthusiasts, Inc. received its paperwork from the
> State of Georgia on Saturday. It held its organizational
> meeting yesterday evening and is now operating as a corporation.
>
> Don't expect to see many changes in the day to day operations
> of the site other than improvements I've discussed in the
> past. The formation of a corporation was a natural result
> of our growth and exposure. The possibility of a club still
> exists and is being discussed off the list with some list
> members.
>
> Thanks,
> Ken Payne
> President (and still list admin), Ford Truck Enthusiasts, Inc.

Insert bells and whistles here!

FTE is dead, Long live FTE!

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 11:17:25 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - would 3.73's be good for 390

Truck nuts,
would a 3.73 gear ratio be good for a 4x4???Its running 31's
Also would a 78/79 ford 9" fit under my 68 4x4???Did that springs
change width????What would I need to do???
- --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 11:49:14 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - I'm Back! Got brakes too :-)

Someone sent me private mail and I can't get to them due to bad
address so I'll publish the address I have here and if you, Barbara
Boeger are on one of the lists, please
contact me again with proper address :-)

I had a nice vacation for 2 weeks, one of which was dedicated to my
only sucessfull (in life, not financially) son, his wife and 8 month
old daughter :-) I finally have a grand daughter who will come to
me! If you could see her mother talk, play, read and attend to her
untiringly, hour after hour with no complaints at all you could see
why I'm so happy :-) That baby will grow up with the right values
and do well in school as well with a mother like her and a daddy too.
From juvinile delinquent to this...........makes me feel good again!

Sorry if I miss anyone's direct querries, I unsubscribed for two
weeks so will have to try to catch up through existing current
threads unless you wish to repost to me directly and I'll send my
reply to the list (if you name it for me, I don't know every one :-))

I've been using the hoist for any excuse and even put the bronco up
on it to drill a hole for a sheet metal screw under the dash so I
could do it standing up instead of lying on my back under the
steering wheel, what a trip :-) Used the barn for a family party for
my son and family, kind of a local reunion for his sake and it worked
out nicely but I need more fans to make it comfy on hot summer days.
Found a pretty nice in/out 20" fan with thermostat for $69 and with
one more I think I may have enough when mounted in the back wall, one
centered in each bay.

Got my transmission jack made with the engine hoist as I mentioned I
was going to do. It was pretty simple and works very well but still
need some swivel casters to make it more mobile. Used it to remove a
full gas tank from the cougar but can't get it all the way to the
floor so still have to have some way to lift objects off of it.
Might build an "I" beam transverse to the lift bay so I can move
stuff on and off the work bench to the engine hoist/tranny jack.
Seems like I keep going in circles here.........?? Got to use my
chop saw again to make the jack parts, lots of fun :-)

Hauled 2 full truck loads to the dump after cleaning out my basement
and shed and another load to the salvage yard (treasure pile all gone
:-)). Moved all my "I" beams to a neat stack behind the barn, spread
all the dirt that came out of the lift hole to fill holes in the yard
and now will rake down a few spots left and will have a real,
suburbanite lawn for the first time in 23 years. You have to know my
wife is very smiley right now :-) All vehicles neatly parked on
stone drive or parking areas, all junk gone or neatly stacked in barn
(or behind it), flowers all over the place, GOD, I must be getting
old!!! I'm actually enjoying all this! :-)

BTW, I finally have some brakes on the bronco. Still requires a
bunch of pedal pressure for a panic stop but the feel is firm now.
Seems the rebuilt master cylinder may have been part of the
problem.....I tried pressure bleeding from the master cylinder and
had some success but not good enough so tried reverse pressure and
the rear circuit flooded the front resivoir??? The circuits are
completely separate since I took out the stock proportioning valve
and replaced it with a Summit version which only interfaces with the
rear circuit so fluid was somehow getting past the rear piston and
bleeding into the front system in the master cylinder itself. After
some monkeying this phenomena seemed to go away and things started....


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