61-79-list-digest Monday, July 13 1998 Volume 02 : Number 370



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Will 66-77 bronco P/S work
FTE 61-79 - dual exhaust
FTE 61-79 - A/C recharge with 134A
FTE 61-79 - No Brakes, First thing in the morning.
Re: FTE 61-79 - No Brakes, First thing in the morning.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Camshafts
FTE 61-79 - Exhaust
FTE 61-79 - Cams
FTE 61-79 - Re: Questions about Camper Speical
Re: FTE 61-79 - Pesky rear hub oil seal failure
Re: FTE 61-79 - Pesky rear hub oil seal failure
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cams
FTE 61-79 - Disc brakes for 1961 F-100 2wd
RE: FTE 61-79 - Cams
FTE 61-79 - Rear End Q
FTE 61-79 - Parts for sale/Garage cleanout
Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts for sale/Garage cleanout
FTE 61-79 - 390 woes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Will 66-77 bronco P/S work
Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts for sale/Garage cleanout
Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts for sale/Garage cleanout
Re: FTE 61-79 - Disc brakes for 1961 F-100 2wd
FTE 61-79 - Radiators!
Re: FTE 61-79 - No Brakes, First thing in the morning.
FTE 61-79 - '70 F-250, Tires & Wheels
FTE 61-79 - C-6 Yokes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Cams
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 woes
Re: FTE 61-79 - No Brakes, First thing in the morning.
FTE 61-79 - Cam info
FTE 61-79 - timing chain
Re: FTE 61-79 - timing chain
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 woes
Re: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Rebuild
Re: FTE 61-79 - What clutch do I have?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 woes
Re: FTE 61-79 - '70 F-250, Tires & Wheels
FTE 61-79 - Re: drool, drool!
FTE 61-79 - D*MN!!!

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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 12:34:32 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Will 66-77 bronco P/S work

Will a power steering box from a 75 bronco work for any f-100????
If so I have one for sale with the 2 piece steering shaft(goes inside
the column)..Need to clean out the garage
- --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 11:50:39 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - dual exhaust

>Then followed it with a 3" in and out
>flowmaster muffler. Tailpipe exits in stock location, passenger side
>behind rear wheel.

Sounds like a really nice system, Brett.......very close to what I am
planning for my '79. How much room did you have between the driveshaft and
frame rail with the Flowmaster?

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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 11:44:30 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - A/C recharge with 134A

>Has anyone used the 134A recharge kits?

Tom & all,
check out www.aircondition.com . This link was posted by someone else a
few months ago........it's a great site and I've learned alot by reading the
posts there. There are some good ideas about DUI vacuum pumps using A/C
compressors and other ways to avoid the high shop rates that have been
forced by EPA compliance. Several shops in my area have simply gotten out
of the A/C business because of the hassles and customer complaints about the
high prices they have to charge to make a profit.

later,
dale c

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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 11:21:40 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: FTE 61-79 - No Brakes, First thing in the morning.

The last coupe of days when I get in my 74 F250 to go to work. I have had
to let it sit for a while and pump the brakes before putting it into gear.
The first several times I do this, the brake pedal goes all the way to the
floor. After about three or fours times of this, the pedal stops before it
hits the floor. The rest of the Day the brakes work fine. The only brake
fluid I have noticed leaking from anyway, was around the cover of the
master cylinder. Then it was only a small amount. I checked the brake
fluid this morning, before going to work, both reservoirs were full.

anybody got any clues as to what is happening????

Thanks!

Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ

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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 14:14:53 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - No Brakes, First thing in the morning.

Your master cyl is going out. Same thing happened in my Galaxie. Change it
soon because Youl go to use those brakes hard and they wont be there.
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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 14:45:34 -0500
From: "Nils Gore"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Camshafts

Man, this lesson in cams is perfect for me at this moment.

I'm just starting to re-build for the first time, and am more than a little
bewildered by all of the decisions.

Thanks alot and keep it coming!

SNIP

>Recommendations:
>So before choosing a cam, be honest with yourself about what you have
>and how it will be used. This is the most important step. What are your
>goals?

>- --
>Come on over to my Back Porch
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
>Ballinger

Nils Gore

'73 F100, 302
"64 F100, (to be determined...)
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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 16:09:10 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Exhaust

This point is a good one. Tuning the exhaust to achieve a pulse tune
that applies to your application is the key to satisfactory performance
of the task you are putting your truck to. A Sleddog needs a different
exhaust than a Mule. They perform a task that's similar(pulling) but
one needs lots of cubic inches at high rpm and the other steady cruise
power and economy. Tuning the exhaust is a big part of this equation.
When I did away with my glass pack axle dump exhaust and put on a pair
of 6 inch round OEM style truck mufflers and 2 inch tailpies turning out
behind the rear wheels, the low and mid-range picked up alot and I don't
think I lost any on top(5200rpms)maybe even gained. The engine runs and
sounds better everywhere. I can sneak in at 2:00 AM and not wake anyone
up, and have a sweet BAAARRRUUOOOO (mostly Q-Jet) when I goose it, and
cruise is great. They have a nice pingy sound at idle and seem to be
perfectly in tune with the throttle response. For my application I
think I have a pretty good setup(cheap too at $120 from the long pipes
back, $180 from the headers back)for all around work and noise control.



> this experimenting. There are a lot of variables between different
> engines and exhaust systems. Exhaust pulse intensity is effected by the
> way the engine is built. Headers have different designs and
> efficiencies. Larger tubes reduce back pressure but slow down the
> exhaust pulses, overall length matters, mufflers vary widely, and their
> distance from the header matters too. Then there is a trade-off between
> performance and sound, not to mention noise
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 16:35:12 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cams

> The Big Bugaboo With Big Cams:
> Overlap.

One thing I forgot to mention about overlap in a performance
application, is that the overlap period can assist in scavenging the
cylinder and asssist in drawing in the new mixture at the tuned rpm the
cam is designed for. When you use more overlap at lower speed you have
new mixture going out the tailpipe, but at higher speeds the intake and
exhaust pulse resonances will overcome this and actually scavenge the
cylinder better. This is rpm range specific, when you drop below this
scavenging level, it can become a pig. You can use intake and exhaust
velocity to tune a cam that is marginal for the application, but really
thats racing stuff and will cause compromising either optimum efficiency
or performance in some part of the powerband on the street. IMHO it's
easier to live with a milder cam and tune everything else for maximum
power than to tune down a hotter cam, that makes your eyes water every
time you fire it up, unless you are racing it regularly and driving it
on a limited basis on the street. This is the first question to answer,
what is it going to do most of the time? A hot cam, even tuned down,
will provide substandard commuter performance, and a street cam will
choke an engine that's expected to run 5000 up regularly.

Now, I hand this thread over to my more educated friends to explain the
intricacies of these principles, and I'm going to get a beer and expect
that I'll learn something here.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 18:04:26 -0400
From: Mike Elmer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Questions about Camper Speical

Mike Elmer wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,Hope you can help.1-I would like to convert my 69 F-250 to front
> disc brakes,what years will fit,how much do I have to change.2-The 360
> just dosen't have enough guts with the 2bbl carb.What low buck changes
> can I make to give it a little more umph.3-I know this sounds dumb but
> there are 2 running lights[1 on each side]on the fender between the
> wheel well and the fender.Did they come stock,I'm finding there's not
> much in the catologs I've got about Camper Speicals. Thanks MikeMike Elmer wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,Hope you can help.1-I would like to convert my 69 F-250 to front
> disc brakes,what years will fit,how much do I have to change.2-The 360
> just dosen't have enough guts with the 2bbl carb.What low buck changes
> can I make to give it a little more umph.3-I know this sounds dumb but
> there are 2 running lights[1 on each side]on the fender between the
> wheel well and the fender.Did they come stock,I'm finding there's not
> much in the catologs I've got about Camper Speicals. Thanks Mike
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 15:47:23 -0700
From: Blaine Strong
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Pesky rear hub oil seal failure

I drilled a hole in my filler plugs for my '61 F-100, and '64 Dodge
Dart, and installed a round magnet in them. I just made sure that there
was clearance for the magnet. Make the hole that the magnet goes into a
tight fit, and you can use some Loctite retaining compound "just to be
sure". Whenever I pull the plug, there is always some "fuzz" clinging
to the magnet.

Michael White wrote:
>
> After only 3,000 miles in my 69 F250 on a fresh rear axle assembly (new
> pinion, ring gear, clutch plates for dana 60 trac loc posi, bearings, seals,
> brakes), I noticed an oil seal failure at the left rear. This made me very
> upset, as I spent alot of time working on that axle (even primer and paint,
> after scraping and die grinding exterior). I have disassembled and found the
> problem. The truck had sat for many years before I bought it, and rust had
> formed at the top inside portion of the axle tubes. When I worked on it the
> first time I only pushed a rag through the tubes. It seems a few thousand
> miles of driving broke alot of rust loose! Anyone got some good ideas on how
> to clean rust from the inside of the axle tubes? Would it be a good idea to
> drill and tap a hole in the bottom of the housing for a magnetic drain plug
> (or is that a bad idea)?
>
> Michael
>
> 69 F250 360, auto
> 69 F250 390, T18, Posi 3.54
>
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 15:53:07 -0700
From: Blaine Strong
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Pesky rear hub oil seal failure

I drilled a hole in my filler plugs for my '61 F-100, and '64 Dodge
Dart, and installed a round magnet in them. I just made sure that there
was clearance for the magnet. Make the hole that the magnet goes into a
tight fit, and you can use some Loctite retaining compound "just to be
sure". Whenever I pull the plug, there is always some "fuzz" clinging
to the magnet.

Michael White wrote:
>
> After only 3,000 miles in my 69 F250 on a fresh rear axle assembly (new
> pinion, ring gear, clutch plates for dana 60 trac loc posi, bearings, seals,
> brakes), I noticed an oil seal failure at the left rear. This made me very
> upset, as I spent alot of time working on that axle (even primer and paint,
> after scraping and die grinding exterior). I have disassembled and found the
> problem. The truck had sat for many years before I bought it, and rust had
> formed at the top inside portion of the axle tubes. When I worked on it the
> first time I only pushed a rag through the tubes. It seems a few thousand
> miles of driving broke alot of rust loose! Anyone got some good ideas on how
> to clean rust from the inside of the axle tubes? Would it be a good idea to
> drill and tap a hole in the bottom of the housing for a magnetic drain plug
> (or is that a bad idea)?
>
> Michael
>
> 69 F250 360, auto
> 69 F250 390, T18, Posi 3.54
>
> == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 16:09:41 -0700
From: Blaine Strong
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cams

Rhoads Lifters seem to decrease the effective duration of a super whammy
cam by about 10-15 degrees, at idle. This would make a race cam with
marginal low-end performance much more streetable, yet retain high RPM
power.

William L Ballinger wrote:
>
> > The Big Bugaboo With Big Cams:
> > Overlap.
>
> One thing I forgot to mention about overlap in a performance
> application, is that the overlap period can assist in scavenging the
> cylinder and asssist in drawing in the new mixture at the tuned rpm the
> cam is designed for. When you use more overlap at lower speed you have
> new mixture going out the tailpipe, but at higher speeds the intake and
> exhaust pulse resonances will overcome this and actually scavenge the
> cylinder better. This is rpm range specific, when you drop below this
> scavenging level, it can become a pig. You can use intake and exhaust
> velocity to tune a cam that is marginal for the application, but really
> thats racing stuff and will cause compromising either optimum efficiency
> or performance in some part of the powerband on the street. IMHO it's
> easier to live with a milder cam and tune everything else for maximum
> power than to tune down a hotter cam, that makes your eyes water every
> time you fire it up, unless you are racing it regularly and driving it
> on a limited basis on the street. This is the first question to answer,
> what is it going to do most of the time? A hot cam, even tuned down,
> will provide substandard commuter performance, and a street cam will
> choke an engine that's expected to run 5000 up regularly.
>
> Now, I hand this thread over to my more educated friends to explain the
> intricacies of these principles, and I'm going to get a beer and expect
> that I'll learn something here.
> --
> Come on over to my Back Porch
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
> Ballinger
> ballingr ldd.net
> == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 16:23:01 -0700
From: Blaine Strong
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Disc brakes for 1961 F-100 2wd

Does anyone know if it is possible to put disc brakes on the front of a
'61 F-100?
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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 20:41:10 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Cams

This is really just trying to cover up a poor engine combonation. i used
them in my 460 and find no advantage to them at all, and possibly some
drawbacks. i do not feel they are really worth the money. this is just my
opinion though.


sleddog

- ----------
From: Blaine Strong[SMTP:blaine.stro worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 1998 7:09 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cams

Rhoads Lifters seem to decrease the effective duration of a super whammy
cam by about 10-15 degrees, at idle. This would make a race cam with
marginal low-end performance much more streetable, yet retain high RPM
power.



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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 19:53:19 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear End Q

I'm staring at the pinion pilot bearing while scratching my head. I've
never worked on a Ford 9" before and my Motor book doesn't go into detail
on removing the bearing. What's the trick? I see what looks like a snap
ring, but it doesn't look like it's in a groove. I can spin the snap ring
with a small screwdriver and hammer, but can't persuade it enough to come out.

Any ideas?

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN PAGE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 21:00:22 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Parts for sale/Garage cleanout

I have the following for sale...:

1) 1979 Ford bronco 9" rear 3.50 ratio $100
1) 1975 Ford Bronco 9" rear 3.50 ratio $100
1) 1975 Ford Bronco Power steering box and 2 piece steering shaft,will
fit 66-77 Bronco's $150
1) 1969 390 engine disasemmbled but complete $150
1) 66-77 Bronco windshield frame and windshield $75
1) complete smog setup for 1975-1977 Ford Bronco $50
1) 1966-1977 bronco air cleaner $25
1) 69 390 auto flex plate $20

email me if interested.

Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 21:06:27 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts for sale/Garage cleanout

Where in this wonderful country are you located?
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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 21:08:45 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 woes

Hello everybody.

After getting all the great feedback on whether or not I should buy a crate
motor. Well, I've decided to build my own. Which brings me to my next
question. Upon removal of the heads I confirmed my dads suspicions of burnt
valves #3 . but I also found that the cyls are in great shape and was
wondering if just doing a valve job will do ok. The motor has about 89,000
miles. Any input is greatly appreciated

Darrell aka
JUMPINFORD aol.com
73 F-250 XLT Ranger Camper Special
70 Torino GT Convertible 429
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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 23:40:28 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Will 66-77 bronco P/S work

you need to sell the bronco steering box to some one that has a bronco,its
worth more to a bronco nut.i sold one for 250.00,truck units around here go
for 75.00 to 100.00

jeff grant
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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 23:42:35 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts for sale/Garage cleanout

i'm interested in several of your items,where are you located?
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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 00:01:04 EDT
From: Toydually aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Parts for sale/Garage cleanout

Hi,

Is your 390 a 2v or 4v?

Brian
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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 21:04:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve & Rockette
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Disc brakes for 1961 F-100 2wd

At 04:23 PM 12/7/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Does anyone know if it is possible to put disc brakes on the front of a
>'61 F-100?

No one makes a kit, But I'm working on the problem, am also
working on a set of headers fo the Y-Block......

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'63 F100 Longbox
'94 Taurus SHO - SWMBO's new car!!
and since most are listing all thier cars:
'72 Capri - Rockette's Toy, aka - SWMBO
'73 Capri - My Toy / Daily Driver
'73 MGB-GT Our Toy
'70 Torino GT My "New" Car


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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 21:24:21 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Radiators!

Hi All!

I've been camping, water skiing, and backpacking for the last few
weeks, life was great! Then I turned on my computer, to a few
hundred e-mails, ayeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!! Now I know how
Ken & Peggy feel every day!

FTC: I noticed a long discussion over cooling systems while I was gone,
I think you guys jinxed me! A few weeks back, I was looking over my
truck getting ready to leave. I guess I felt like I should work on
it a little, I decided to change the radiator and heater hoses that
I couldn't remember last time they had been changed (My records show
about ten years, but I MUST have changed them in between:-). Run to the
parts house, get hoses and stuff, climb in that nice, huge engine
compartment, and go to work. No problems, even did the bypass (FE).
Flush the radiator (for good measure), notice a couple spots on the
core.
Naw, it's OK. Fill with new anti-freeze & water. Run till hot, still
a couple spots. Naw, it's OK. Just spills from flushing. Go to bed,
thinking - Hook up the boat, load the truck, and GO!

Next morning, BIG puddle under truck. I don't think it's OK! I thought
about stop-leak, but have never been a big fix-it-in-a-can guy, so I
quickly phone around. Found a triple row core, in stock (!) at a local
Kragens for $190. An hour later, completed the swap, even impressing
SWMBO, who is not not normally impressed with my "old P-O-S truck":-(.

The truck did well, hauling ~3000 lb boat, three people, camping gear,
food for a week, and big ice chest full of favorite adult beverage.

Not bad, considering it's a 28 year-old "old P-O-S truck":-).

Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California


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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 20:55:09 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - No Brakes, First thing in the morning.

Keith wrote:
[complaints about no brakes snipped]

> anybody got any clues as to what is happening????

Well, my first guess is that Gary was playing with your truck!

But, if not, then your master cylinder is probably bad. You said
the resevoir is full, but have you added any recently? If you have
been adding fluid, check inside the brake booster, it may be going
in there. . .

Pat Brown
Sunny, Beautiful, Warm, Sebastopol, California


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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 21:56:13 -0700
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '70 F-250, Tires & Wheels

Well, the last trip did it. I'm ready for new tires on the crew cab.
I'm getting a little suspicious of my old, rusty split rims. Not to
mention, $30 minimum to fix a flat, if I can find a place that will
fix them.

I've been thinking of going to Steve's favorite shopping spot (Pick
& Pull) and finding a set of rims off a later truck. Help me out here
guys, what should I be looking for? Here are my needs:

'70 F-250 Crew cab, 2WD, 7500 lb Max GVW, 149" WB
Current rims: OEM split rims, 8 lug, stamped "69", "J", "B", "US"
Current tires: Big-O, 7.5x16 LT , Load range "D"
I have the original hub caps (~12" x 4"), I'd like to be able to keep
them if possible.

I use this truck for hauling. Camper, boat, rocks, wood, you-name-it.
I've had 2400 lbs of rock in it (pushing the 7500# max), and I also
use it for a 15 mile commute once or twice a week. Generally, the boat
ramps I use are nice wide, concrete. I try to avoid narrow, gravel,
levee ramps (50'+ turn diameter!). I don't want tires/wheels that
would make my huge turn diameter bigger, nor am I interested in
spending a fortune on wheels.

TIA,
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California

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Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 10:14:26 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C-6 Yokes

Don Grossman writes: >>C6's have a slip yoke on the tail shaft. Tail
shaft is splined and the drive shaft just slips on so it wouldn't do you
any good.

Not all of them!!! I have two that have the yoke type output on the tail.
They are from a 1975 F250 4X4 - and a 1977 F250 4X4. They have a short
drive shaft between the transmission and the trransfer case. All three
drive shafts have the slip type splined matings in the center of the drive
shafts. They are "fixed" at either end.

Steve: I don't have a spare, but if it would help I'll pull one of them
and count the # splines for you.


Azie
Ardmore, Al.
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 07:18:38 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Cams

This will also make the smog police very unhappy who will consequently make
your life miserable.

- ----------
> From: William L Ballinger
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cams
> Date: Sunday, July 12, 1998 2:35 PM
>
> > The Big Bugaboo With Big Cams:
> > Overlap.
>
> When you use more overlap at lower speed you have
> new mixture going out the tailpipe


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 10:57:56 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 woes

I would have to agree with the original suggestion you received.

JUST do the heads. Take the heads to the machine shop and have whatever is
broken, fixed.


- -----Original Message-----
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, July 12, 1998 9:10 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 woes


>Hello everybody.
>
>After getting all the great feedback on whether or not I should buy a crate
>motor. Well, I've decided to build my own. Which brings me to my next
>question. Upon removal of the heads I confirmed my dads suspicions of
burnt
>valves #3 . but I also found that the cyls are in great shape and was
>wondering if just doing a valve job will do ok. The motor has about 89,000
>miles. Any input is greatly appreciated
>
>Darrell aka
>JUMPINFORD aol.com
>73 F-250 XLT Ranger Camper Special
>70 Torino GT Convertible 429
>== FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

== FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 08:10:12 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - No Brakes, First thing in the morning.

At 08:55 PM 7/12/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Keith wrote:
> [complaints about no brakes snipped]
>
>> anybody got any clues as to what is happening????
>
>Well, my first guess is that Gary was playing with your truck!

If he was, I didn't know about it. :)


>But, if not, then your master cylinder is probably bad. You said
>the resevoir is full, but have you added any recently? If you have
>been adding fluid, check inside the brake booster, it may be going
>in there. . .

I've had the truck for a year now, and have never added any brake fluid to
it yet. I think I will replace the master cylinder anyway, just to be
safe. That would be alot cheaper than replacing body parts. :) Besides, I
probably should change the brake fluid anyway since I don't know if it has
every been changed.


>Pat Brown
>Sunny, Beautiful, Warm, Sebastopol, California
>

Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ

== FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 09:10:56 -0700
From: tom
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cam info

Sleddog and Bill,
Thanks a lot for the info on cams. It really helped my understanding.
Tom
Reno,NV

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 12:15:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - timing chain

well guys my donor truck died yesterday
i think the timing chain broke . if you crank
the motor over the rotorbutton does not turn .my question is should i be
able to turn the rotor button by hand easly if you can is there somthing
else broke ? i had this happen 1 other time with a 351m and the cam
broke :-) is this common with the 351m ???? i havent got it home yet to
tear it down i hope it is just the timing chain
thanks for any help you guys are GRRREAT :-)

RANDY
1970 F100 351W ( KNOCKING) :-(
1978 F150 351M ( DONOR TRUCK ) :-)
1960 FAIRLANE ( FOR SALE )

== FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 09:36:01 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - timing chain

Sounds like maybe the gear on the dist. sheared or the shaft broke. It's
hard to tell since "easily" might mean something different to you than me.
If the timing chain broke you'd still be turning the cam so it shouldn't be
that easy. Or it could be a broken cam...

- ----------
> From: RANDY D
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - timing chain
> Date: Monday, July 13, 1998 9:15 AM
>
> well guys my donor truck died yesterday
> i think the timing chain broke . if you crank
> the motor over the rotorbutton does not turn .my question is should i be
> able to turn the rotor button by hand easly if you can is there somthing
> else broke ? i had this happen 1 other time with a 351m and the cam
> broke :-) is this common with the 351m ???? i havent got it home yet to
> tear it down i hope it is just the timing chain
> thanks for any help you guys are GRRREAT :-)
>

== FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 09:55:53 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 woes

At 09:08 PM 12/07/98 EDT, you wrote:
>Hello everybody.
>
>After getting all the great feedback on whether or not I should buy a crate
>motor. Well, I've decided to build my own. Which brings me to my next
>question. Upon removal of the heads I confirmed my dads suspicions of burnt
>valves #3 . but I also found that the cyls are in great shape and was
>wondering if just doing a valve job will do ok. The motor has about 89,000
>miles. Any input is greatly appreciated
>
>Darrell aka

I personally know 5 people with FE's including me. Each of us has a happy
FE with over 200,000 MILES on the bottom end with no work, with the
exception perhaps of a new rear main seal. These bottom ends go for a LONG
time.

The name of the game is, "ain't broken, don't fix." Once you do the heads,
if you do them right (hardened seats and guides for unleaded fuel) you can
then take them off in another 100,000 to do the bottom end.

Really, 89,000 on an FE is just enough to break it in. The reason you have
valve problems is the lack of hardened seats for unleaded fuel.


marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 10:01:08 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - NP205 Rebuild

At 10:02 AM 11/07/98 EDT, you wrote:
>Hey Marko,
>
>Do you have a good exploded view/assembly instructions for the 205? I have
>everything laid out pretty much how it came apart, but a little help here
>would go a long way....I just ordered a master rebuild kit from a place in
>Michigan, I'm not sure what kind of paperwork will be coming with it...
>
>Thanks!
>
>Colorado Jeff

Jeff:

Crap! I hate only getting email at work! You see, you emailed me on
Saturday, I went to the shop on Sunday, and now it's Monday and I left my
manual at the shop!

If you can wait a few days, I will go out to Randy's (30 miles) and get it
and photocopy it.

These things can get confusing.

Now tell me a few things:

the shift forks, were all the little square wear marks still on the ends?
(don't worry about the apparent 'heating', they're heat treated actually)

Anything look burned? How many miles on the case?

Did you see two washers with tabs on them and bearing-like coating? Called
thrust washers. Were they ok?

Did you have fun taking off the snap rings?

Once your kit gets here, tell me what's in it, and I'll tell you if you're
missing anything.

Lemme know what your rebuild schedule is.


marko ;^]

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 10:07:27 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - What clutch do I have?

At 11:02 PM 10/07/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I took the T18 out of my parts truck today and got my first peak at the
>clutch inside the bell housing. This is a '78 F250 2-wheel and seems
>pretty original, but the pressure plate cover does not look like what
>the illustrations in the '78 Shop Manual shows. The Manual shows two
>options, one is designated as an 11 inch clutch and looks like it might
>be a diaphram type. The other is designated as a 12-inch clutch and is
>a very triangular looking Long-style cover with 9 springs. What I have
>is a Long-style cover with twelve springs in a circle. It has three
>cast fingers, with full centrifugal weights. The cover is stamped: Type
>11.5 CF. Has someone swapped something in here, or is this stock? I
>assume the 11.5 means it uses an eleven and one-half inch clutch disk.
>Anybody have any ideas what CF means? The clutch disk itself has F3
>printed on the hub in white paint.
>

You have what I like to call the "chatterbox", the Ford 3-finger 11.5"
heavy-duty clutch. This is a factory part but I've had two of them and
HATE them with a passion. Maybe I've just had bad luck, who knows. But
for my money I'd get either a cheap ol 11" LUK (unless you're hauling
around a backhoe or something), I have one of those in my F100 and it's
nice and smooth, or a Centerforce II for heavier applications. Really the
LUK shud be fine and it's cheap too. NOBODY makes an aftermarket 11.5"
replacement, and it's just as well.

marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 10:19:19 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 woes

OTOH I have seen engines get a nice new top end that seals like it's
s'posed to and then watched the oil get shot out of the dipstick tube when
the blowby overpressurized the crankcase. Maybe if the cylinders are truly
in very good shape with minor/no grooves and very little glazing then it
will be OK but there is a significant risk factor in doing just the heads
on a motor with almost 90K.

- ----------
> From: Marko Maryniak
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 woes
> Date: Monday, July 13, 1998 9:55 AM
>
> At 09:08 PM 12/07/98 EDT, you wrote:
> >Hello everybody.
> >
> >After getting all the great feedback on whether or not I should buy a
crate
> >motor. Well, I've decided to build my own. Which brings me to my next
> >question. Upon removal of the heads I confirmed my dads suspicions of
burnt
> >valves #3 . but I also found that the cyls are in great shape and
was
> >wondering if just doing a valve job will do ok. The motor has about
89,000
> >miles. Any input is greatly appreciated
> >
> >Darrell aka
>
> I personally know 5 people with FE's including me. Each of us has a
happy
> FE with over 200,000 MILES on the bottom end with no work, with the
> exception perhaps of a new rear main seal. These bottom ends go for a
LONG
> time.
>
> The name of the game is, "ain't broken, don't fix." Once you do the
heads,
> if you do them right (hardened seats and guides for unleaded fuel) you
can
> then take them off in another 100,000 to do the bottom end.
>
> Really, 89,000 on an FE is just enough to break it in. The reason you
have
> valve problems is the lack of hardened seats for unleaded fuel.
>

== FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 10:15:53 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '70 F-250, Tires & Wheels

>Pat Brown
>Sebastopol, California
>
Pat:

Do yourself a favor and lose those tires and split rims before they get you.

You can do what I did and never ever ever worry again. Rockwell makes
wheels for Ford trucks in a 16" by 6 or 6.5. These are steel, painted
silver with REALLY GOOD paint, and are probably the strongest rims you can
get. Much stronger than white spoke rims, and let's not talk about
aluminum. They are also CHEAP and brand new. Never have to worry again.

As for tires, you shud also buy new, that way you never have to worry. The
stock tire size for a f250 is 235-85R16. Do NOT by bias ply.

I got a set of Marshal 10-ply radials with a nice tread (made by Kumho) for
$130 each Canadian, and a set of 4 rims to go with it for $55 each.

If you are not wanting to spend money, go to wreckers etc and look for
anything of a later-model 250. For example, if you see any FEDEX trucks
(late model Econoline 250's) driving around, look at the tires and wheels
on those. They're what you need.

marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

== FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 10:19:53 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: drool, drool!

Randy is the guy who is restoring my 67, as you know. We are doing an
awesome job so far but it'll be awhile yet before I'm done. Stu Varner may
even have his back on the road before I'm finished mine!!!

Anyway, Randy knows a guy with a 67 Mercury 4x4 CREW CAB (4 door), needs
some tlc. It's for sale, too, and it would be awesome if one of you guys
won the lottery and hired Randy to do it (after mine, of course).
Remember, 67 cent dollars go a long way, and he's only 5 miles across the
border!


marko in vancouver
marko ....


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