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61-79-list-digest Sunday, July 12 1998 Volume 02 : Number 369 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: FTE 61-79 - 427 sohc FTE 61-79 - Exhaust systems RE: FTE 61-79 - 427 sohc FTE 61-79 - Camshafts FTE 61-79 - RE: Able TRuck Wrecking FTE 61-79 - Re: Gas tank conversion(was 1963 rear end sway) FTE 61-79 - overheating/underheating [none] FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Server went down RE: FTE 61-79 - Dual Exhaust > FTE 61-79 - Ugly Bed FTE 61-79 - What clutch do I have? FTE 61-79 - NP205 Rebuild FTE 61-79 - 1967 F100 VIN and rear end tag nomenclature FTE 61-79 - AC recharge with 134A Re: FTE 61-79 - AC recharge with 134A FTE 61-79 - Pesky rear hub oil seal failure Re: FTE 61-79 - Cool Screen Saver Re: FTE 61-79 - 76-77 4x4 Front Dana 44 FTE 61-79 - Re: Re: DUI Distributor > FTE 61-79 - Dana 60 gears Re: FTE 61-79 - 76-77 4x4 Front Dana 44 ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 08:03:19 -0700 From: Keith Srb Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 427 sohc At 09:56 AM 7/10/98 -0400, you wrote: >At 02:33 AM 7/10/98 EDT, you wrote: >>I just saw that awesome 427 pics from pigeon forge.I was just wondering if >>anyone knew how much hp that beauty made? > >I think the rating was 625 stock. > >rmmmmmmmmm rmmmmmmm brappppppppp > >Ken Payne > According to the Ford V-8 Workshop, http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/427sohc.html. "Factory ratings were 615 hp Ken, I think you are right. If I remember right, the board they had in front of the truck at Pigeon Forge said the engine was rated at 625 hp 7000 rpm. Anyway you look at it, it was definitely over 600 hp! Anybody got an extra cammer laying around that they would part with cheap??? (yea, right) later Keith Srb herbie http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie Mesa, AZ == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 08:30:29 -0700 From: "Douglas W. Hack" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Exhaust systems I had a guy who manufactured exhaust systems for a special application similar to mine put a system into a car I'd swapped engines in. Even though the application was similar, he had to experiment to get an acceptable level of sound. Luckily he was willing to share the costs of this experimenting. There are a lot of variables between different engines and exhaust systems. Exhaust pulse intensity is effected by the way the engine is built. Headers have different designs and efficiencies. Larger tubes reduce back pressure but slow down the exhaust pulses, overall length matters, mufflers vary widely, and their distance from the header matters too. Then there is a trade-off between performance and sound, not to mention noise. The first combination he put in my car was really hot - just a high-flow turbo muffler and medium sized tubes. Braaap-braaap-braaap. Clearly good for performance, but not civilized. He then added a glass-pack muffler near the tail as an expansion chamber to soften the exhaust > pulses. This helped a lot, but there was still an objectionable harmonic at a certain engine speed. Finally he made the exit pipe slightly smaller in diameter. This exhaust system is still plenty loud in good ways, but doesn't sound like a race car anymore, and some performance was traded off. I don't mention my experience as any sort of recommendation - my point is that there are a heck of a lot of variables and trade-offs, and what sounds good to one person can get you a fix-it ticket. My recommendation is that you buy a complete developed system from a company that is very familiar with your application and has already done the experimenting. - -- Doug Hack == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 11:55:57 -0400 From: Sleddog Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 427 sohc can you say *almost* enough! sleddog - ---------- From: JUMPINFORD Sent: Friday, July 10, 1998 2:33 AM To: 61-79-list Subject: FTE 61-79 - 427 sohc I just saw that awesome 427 pics from pigeon forge.I was just wondering if anyone knew how much hp that beauty made? == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 11:06:19 -0500 From: ballingr Subject: FTE 61-79 - Camshafts > > More Cam questions - I am lacking in general knowledge as to what makes > a cam aggressive or mild as far as duration and lift numbers go. What > would be considered a "high lift" cam. What would typical numbers for an > RV cam be? > What specs typically provide low end power vs high rev power and why > would one be desirable over the other? > Any and all info is appreciated. > Sleddog? Azzie? Steve? anyone else? Sleddog? Azzie? Steve? anyone else? What makes a cam agressive or mild is determined by the timing of the valve events to crankshaft position. The lift is a value that will determine the maximum amount of mixture that an engine can theoretically digest at the moment it is fully open. The amount of time the valve spends open takes that value into its actual application by setting a value on the amount of time it's open. Lift: There are limits (besides physical contact ones) to the amount of lift you can use in a given engine. If you put a .700 lift cam in an head that will stop flowing at .500, it can cause the port to stall and not make any more power (or even less) than a .500 lift cam, and it will be soggy at lower lift where most of the stroke is occouring. The idea is to get the most lift that your engine and it's intended use can reliably handle. Keep in mind that a higher lift cam needs better valvetrain components than a low lift one, at the same duration value, since it must snap the valves open and shut quicker. Duration: Duration is a bit misrepresented in the way it's used to compare cams. Two cams with the same duration and lift specs can be very different in the way they work. A much better comparison can be made by looking at their seat-to-seat timing of valve events. This is where the valves actually open and close according to crankshaft position. What works best in a given engine is determined by the whole combination from air cleaner to tailpipe, and must take into account the weight and intended use of the vehicle. Most of the research involved is done for better or worse by the cam companies. The principle involved is to maximize the filling of the engine with the best quality combustable mixture that the intake tract is capable of delivering at the desired rpm level, and empty the engine after each combustion with a tuned pulse that pulls the spent mixture out without backflowing and contaminating the next incoming mixture charge, and do it within a specific powerband. This is very application specific. The Big Bugaboo With Big Cams: Overlap. The period of time that both valves are open. A higher lift, longer duration cam will by nature have more overlap than a stock cam. Both valves will be open and part of the fresh mixture will be pushed out of the exhaust. If you are turning enough rpm's the pulses will stabilize and the losses will be proportionally less than at lower rpms, so this cam profile won't make as much low end power as it could because of the losses, but will make more power up high because of more mixture flowing in at speed. Now if you sped up the opening and closing period and spent more of the time involved at maximum lift, and compressed these events, you can effectively shorten the amount of overlap, and still have the flow (and by virtue of less loss and more time at max lift, even more)of the former cam. This is what a roller cam does, since it is capable of dealing reliably with faster valve events. Bottom-end power comes back with a vengeance. Recommendations: So before choosing a cam, be honest with yourself about what you have and how it will be used. This is the most important step. What are your goals? More power in one area will usually take away from somewhere else. If mileage , low-end power, and long life(with cheap parts)is your goal, stick with a stock grind, or one with just a bit more lift and the same duration. Use the overlap value to compare two cams, in this application (and really most others)less is better. As you go up profiles and in rpm bands, you'll lose low-end and towing power, and vacuam signal, but some of this can be offset by raising the compression ratio. A wider duration cam can tolerate more static compression since it bleeds off cylinder pressure. If you drive it slow this setup will be less efficient and create more pollution than a milder combination. There will be more expensive parts involved to maintain the reliaility factor also, especially if you opt for a cam that snaps the valves open and shut much quicker. If you run it hard alot, get more duration and lift, and learn to live with it's ideosyncracies. It's all what you want out of it. I'd reccomend contacting Crane Cams with your honest assessment of your combination and your goals, and use their research for your engine to your purpose. They will be mighty close, and my experience with them has been very good. - -- Come on over to my Back Porch http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr Ballinger ballingr == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 07:35:40 -0700 From: Tom&Carol Hogan Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Able TRuck Wrecking - ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 16:54:55 -0700 From: Brian Koss Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Able TRuck Wrecking I believe the name is Able Truck Wrecking. It may be AAA Truck Wreckers. They are off of Industrial, I think it is depot road but don't know for sure, in Hayward. The are the second from the last yard befroe the dead end at the bay. The is a good door pocket on the drivers side door of a white 66 custum cab in the north west corner of the lot. It is sitting precaqriously on some truck axles. There yard is a mess but they haver a lot of stuff. ======================= AAA Truck Wreckers 3884 Depot Rd Hayward 510-782-9433. Good source. Lots of older trucks. Be Very carefull here. The trucks are stacked on top of each other. Also, bring a set of rubber rain/mud boots. You'll thank yourself if you do!! As I rember there is no charge to look. Go find your part first and then haggle with the guy at the counter. After the price is set then go pull your part. These guys are fairly decent to work with. I got my cruise control system there. Another source in the bay area is the Truck Stop (408)-727-9966 in San Jose. It is a small yard and the owner is usually there to deal with. They are pretty good but their prices tend to be a little higher. I'm not affiliated with either of these yards. Just found them to be decent people who treat their customers well. Also some of the few yards that carry stuff in the years we talk about here. Tom H. == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 15:35:24 EDT From: bobherring Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Gas tank conversion(was 1963 rear end sway) "Kevin Leone" wrote: >- -I plan on putting a .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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