61-79-list-digest Wednesday, July 8 1998 Volume 02 : Number 367



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Crate Motors
FTE 61-79 - Slot Truck
FTE 61-79 - RE:Vibe
Re: FTE 61-79 - Intakes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Pwr steering failure
FTE 61-79 - re: 1963 f-100 disks
FTE 61-79 - Rebuild or buy
FTE 61-79 - Hesitation
FTE 61-79 - Oil pressure
FTE 61-79 - Rebuild or Buy
FTE 61-79 - apology
FTE 61-79 - New style alternator
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rebuild or Buy
FTE 61-79 - Thermostats and Heat Transfer - Cooling wars continue
Re: FTE 61-79 - New style alternator
FTE 61-79 - hesitation upon initial acceleration
FTE 61-79 - hesitation upon initial acceleration
FTE 61-79 - Straight six dog
Re: FTE 61-79 - 400 heads
Re: FTE 61-79 - Straight six dog
Re: FTE 61-79 - Straight six dog
FTE 61-79 - Cams Again ? ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Straight six dog
RE: FTE 61-79 - Cams Again ? ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Straight six dog
FTE 61-79 - Np435 Clash
FTE 61-79 - One more 435
Re: FTE 61-79 - Np435 Clash
Re: FTE 61-79 - Np435 Clash
Re: FTE 61-79 - Thermostats and Heat Transfer - Cooling wars continue
FTE 61-79 - external ajustment for manual steering box?
FTE 61-79 - 78 motor HP/torque figures
Re: FTE 61-79 - external ajustment for manual steering box?
Re: FTE 61-79 - external ajustment for manual steering box?
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 motor HP/torque figures
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 motor HP/torque figures
FTE 61-79 - Nominate Ford Truck Enthusiasts?
FTE 61-79 - Re: anti-SUV survey

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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 01:18:43 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Crate Motors

> > As far as trashing the truck, IT AINT GONNA HAPPEN. As far as the engine
> > goes, I already know it's the heads, but with 89,000 miles on it I do want to
> > start over. My question was whether or not I should just buy a crate motor
> > instead of rebuilding the old one.

IMHO you can't beat a well machined custom rebuild of your engine, if
it's not been burnt up. If you aren't confident in your abilities to
build one, find a good engine builder (someone with real integrity, and
pride in his work) and have him put one together for you. He'll check
all of the clearances and won't put things in wrong. Yeah, it will be a
little higher priced, but you get what you pay for.

Most parts store rebuilt engines are crap. Go into the store's back room
and look at the cores that are being turned in. That's where your "new"
engine is coming from. I've seen worn out valvesprings, stripped bolt
holes, and that's just on the installation. In 10,000 miles you'll find
out where it's been when it rattles and makes more blow-by than the
engine you pulled out.

If you must have a crate motor, I reccommend a Jasper, and nothing
else. They aren't as good as a custom built, but they beat the others
by a fair piece.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 01:57:48 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Slot Truck

> Now folks, this guy is probably on the crookedest - hilliest roads I've
> ever been on, and I was raised in the hills of Tennessee. Their hills got
> our hills beat - hands down.

I grew up around Springfield, MO and those hills stood between me and
Table Rock Lake. They can be a formidable opponent. You are a lucky
man, though If you've lived there awhile I bet you wish it was how it
was 20 years ago. It's a nice town, but it made me a little sad last
time I went over.

When you soften up springs you increase body roll. Lowering offsets it
to a degree, but roll will be more noticeable. If your shocks are a
little weak, it will crow-hop worse because the springs arent
controlling the motion as much as they did. Add to that, the shocks are
mounted to control bounce in one direction only.

You should put on a rear sway bar, as light as the truck is in the rear,
it doesn't have to be really thick, and stagger your shocks to stop the
hop. You see, the staggered shocks will break up and control the motion
that causes crow-hop. Look under some late model trucks and use them
for a pattern. Put on some good fat radials, just wide enough and with a
weight capacity suited to your use, and air them according to the load.
Soften them up a little in the rear when you aren't hauling anything,
and air up the front some. By a little and some I mean no more than two
pounds above or below the recommended presssure, i.e. 32-34 lbs in front
and 30-32 in the rear, on a 32 lb tire. That's the most variance front
to rear that should be run. The idea here is to tune the tire response
to the differnce in weight front to rear. When you haul something, air
them back up.

Push is going to be the demon you'll have to make peace with. Unless
you redistribute the weight, it will have difficulty turning at higher
speeds. The sway bars and shocks and lower center of gravity will help
alot, but it will still push.

It's very important to avoid deep-dished wheels on the front of straight
axle rigs, they cause bump-steer and wander,and are hard on the
roller-type steering boxes, and king pins. (if you haven't switched to a
Saginaw type box yet, I highly reccomend it, but I'd still avoid deep
wheels)
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 02:04:45 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:Vibe

> >>Hi everyone, I've got a nagging vibration problem. It used to occur just at
> >>2200 rpm in 3rd gear, which happens to be about 40 miles per hour. If I
> >>would shift it into 2nd gear the vibration would still be there. Yesterday
> >>it was occuring anywhere between 2000 and 3000 rpm in 3rd gear, and
> >>sometimes it wouldn't happen at all. I'm pretty much stumped. I checked all
> >>the u-joints, I'm not totally sure how to tell if they're bad, but they all
> >>seemed solid and I couldn't see any rust or anything coming out of the caps.
> >>My tires are all at the correct pressure and there isn't any mud or anything
> >>on them or the driveshafts. Any ideas?

You could have a bad hanger-bearing if you have a two-piece driveline.
A brand new one will shake in 6 months if you haul or rip around much.
I never could comepletely eliminate the shake in my '67 and I replaced
and balanced everything.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 08:20:03 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Intakes

am14 chrysler.com wrote:
>
> Randy writes: >>will the intake off the 351w fit the 351m
>
> NO!!!!!!!!
>
> Aftermarket only. 351M/400 never had a 4bbl offering from FOMOCO to the
> best of my knowledge.
>

I heard the 400 had a 4bbl in cars of some year. Thats my story and
I'm sticken to it when the new visual inspection starts here this year
some time ;-)

OX

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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 08:28:40 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Pwr steering failure

am14 chrysler.com wrote:
>
> Ox writes: >>Seemed like PS valve was stuck as PS worked slightly one way
> and not at all the other.
>
> I think you can still get rebuild kits from FOMOCO for the valve. Proud
> you got it fixed. Wasn't aware you had assist in one direction and none in
> the other, but it probably wouldn't have helped my end for diagnosis.

I had basically none until I jacked up truck and dicsonnected drag
link. With vitually no load on steering, you could feel the PS working
only one way, but with any load, it wasn't doin squat. Thanks again for
everyone's help !!!

OX
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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 08:20:29 -0400
From: pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re: 1963 f-100 disks

Try calling Master Power Brakes at 704-664-8866. They do all kinds of
brake conversions. I just looked through their catalog and they do not
list a kit for ford trucks from 1957- 64. I bet they could tell you why.

Jon E. Purut
Pickup65 juno.com
JCPurut worldnet.att.net
Visit my site http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~JCPurut

1964 F500 ( top speed 35 mph!!)
1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
1965 F100
1977 F150
1970 Mustang Fastback


_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 08:05:59 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rebuild or buy

Jumpinford writes: >>My question was whether or not I should just buy a
crate motor instead of rebuilding the old one.

I'd rather have one I rebuilt as one some other person rebuilt. I trust
me. I don't trust everyone else.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 08:08:59 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hesitation

John waldeck writes:>> then when I depressed the pedal, I felt an obvious
hesitation, then started accelerating again.

Either one of two things: Accelerator pump not working or the vacuum
advance on the Distributor not functioning.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 08:14:11 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil pressure

Ox writes: >> Seemed to calm itself down a little bit when the engine
warmed up and idle was reduced. Still pulls 25 PSI at idle (800 RPM) with
10W30 oil and engine warm. Shoots right up to 50-60 at anything over 1500
RPM.

Normal - very normal. Remember this "ain't no bowtie".

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 08:23:27 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rebuild or Buy

Deacon writes: >>You have a 390 with 89,000 miles (which isn't squat)

I've got more miles than that on my lawn mower. If I had an FE with just
89,000 miles on it, I'd think I had a new one. Most are good for 250 plus
thousand, when properly maintained.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 09:03:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - apology

To Ken and all the list members........
Sorry i accidently posted this message twice the first time i clicked on
the wrong address Thanks for the help

RANDY
1970 F100 351W ( KNOCKING) :-(
1978 F150 351M ( DONOR TRUCK ) :-)
1960 FAIRLANE ( FOR SALE )

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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 08:22:59 -0500
From: "Don Yerhot"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New style alternator

Has anyone out there installed a new style alternator with the built-in
regulator into an older truck such as my 65 with the mechanical
regulator? Appreciate any help.

Don
Richfield, MN (Land of 10000 taxes)
65 F250/351w/np435 (The green beast)

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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 09:35:38 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rebuild or Buy

At 08:23 AM 7/7/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Deacon writes: >>You have a 390 with 89,000 miles (which isn't squat)
>
>I've got more miles than that on my lawn mower. If I had an FE with just
>89,000 miles on it, I'd think I had a new one. Most are good for 250 plus
>thousand, when properly maintained.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>

Mine went for 265,000 before it was rebuilt. It was burning
a little oil but other than that it ran great. .....until
the fateful day ice plugged up the radiator and the engine
overheated (badly).

Ken Payne

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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 08:51:44 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Thermostats and Heat Transfer - Cooling wars continue

Just for the record: calories are no longer defined by the heat needed to raise
water, but 1 calorie is now defined to be exactly 4.1860 Joules. (Halliday and
Resnick, Fundamentals of Physics, 3rd ed)

I think you guys are also more interested in the specific heat capacity of water,
which, according to Howell and Buckius, Fundamentals of Engineering
Thermodynamics, for a constant volume process the specific heat capacity is
defined as partial derivative of internal energy with respect to Temperature, or

Cv= Uth - Utl / (Th - Tl)

for water the T and U numbers are courtesy Howell and Buckius, I did the C
calcuation, so hope this helps.

T ( C) U (KJ/Kg) C(KJ/Kg*C)
50 209.12 4.178
55 230.01

70 292.76 4.186
75 313.70

90 376.66 4.206
95 397.69

According to Elements of Heat Transfer (bayazitoglu and ozisik) heat transfer
due to convection is of the form q=h(t1-t2), where h is a function of the tube
geometry, orientation (verticle vs horizontal), and speed of the air flow. As the air
speed can affect this equation radically, much attention is given to fans and fan
shrouds!


All that said, I agree with Steve that the lower t stat simply buys you a few minutes
and only pushes the problem off for LONG periods of high power. For
intermittent, SHORT periods a lower t stat can make a difference. In other words,
don't tow your boat and think you'll be ok, but if it works for day to day driving its
worth the 8 bucks. (And the 35 cents in the glove box in case you need to call for
a ride!)


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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 07:18:44 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New style alternator

> Has anyone out there installed a new style alternator with the built-in
>regulator into an older truck such as my 65 with the mechanical
>regulator? Appreciate any help.
>
>Don

Personally, I rather prefer a alternator with an external regulator.
That way when the regulator blows up I can replace it for $12 instead
of having to change the alternator...
I also like having the regulator external since it gets the regulator
away from the heat and vibration of the alternator.

The later solid state regulator should be a plug in replacement for Your
older mechanical one. They're about $12 new, or available by the thousands
at the wrecking yard...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

"Light fuse and get away. Do not hold in hand.
Use only under close adult supervision.
For outdoor use only."

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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 07:26:00 PDT
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - hesitation upon initial acceleration

I had carb problems with my '85 f150, 300-6.
The previous owner had "fixed up" the carb and added a manual choke kit.
I bought a complete rebuilt carb with a 1 year warranty for under $90
(cdn)at the local auto parts store. It took me about an hour to install
it and set it up. Check into this route before you buy a carb kit. Its
not as much fun as rebuilding your own, but if you don't have the time
or space ( I'm not allowed to use the kitchen table for mechanical work
anymore....)

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 07:21:44 -0700
From: John_Waldeck idx.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - hesitation upon initial acceleration

To: 61-79-list

Thanks to all for your suggestions...It does hesitate/miss a bit when going
about 40...kinda depends on
where the accelerator is. The more I press down, the better it sounds...Yes
I'm running it with the Carter 1bbl. When I got the truck, there was
NO air filter (smart) so I immediately put one in It sounds like the
accelerator pump needs to be replaced and/or the carb re-build.
I've never done either of those B4 but I'm sure it sounds scarier than it
really is. I have a haynes manual that I'm not really impressed
with so far. Not much detail..
thanks again for the help....


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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 12:05:59 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Straight six dog

Hello folks,

Thanks again for all your input on whether or not I should yank my 390, I
have a couple more things I want to check before I make any decisions, But I
think if it comes down to it I will rebuild it myself. I spent a year
building 3516's for Caterpillar, how hard can a 390 be?

Anyways, the reason for this letter is I am looking for suggestions on getting
a few (50) more HP out of a 300 six cylinder. It runs great, but all top end
goes down the toilet in overdrive. This is my brother's truck, (the one that
got me hooked on flyin trucks) and welike to get a little more oomph out of
her. Right now it's bone stock, and runnin great. Any suggestions would be
greatly appreciated, Oh by the way we don't want to switch to a V-8 because
of how light this 6 cylinder is.
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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 10:39:15 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400 heads

>From: "Art & Kat Lutz"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400 heads
>
> I can get some parts off a 78 Grand Marque with
>a 400. My truck is a 78 with a 400 also. I know there are
>some differences between the 400's in the cars and in the
>trucks. Are the Heads the same? I need to get some
>work done to my heads in the truck, and was wondering if
>I could just use the ones off the car, and get them reworked.

Yo Art:

The only internal differences between the car and truck 400 engines are the
camshaft and timing set. All other parts are the same. Externally, the
cars use different accessory mounting brackets because cars and trucks have
different underhood configurations and different frame clearances. The
cylinder heads are identical.

>Are there any other parts I should look at taking off?
>Thanks Art

I'd take out the whole engine. Then when you're ready to do a ground-up
rebuild, start w/ the ex-car engine and rebuild it while the one in your
truck is still running. When you don't have to do it just to keep your
wheels on the road, an engine rebuild is a lot more fun. You can take your
time and do all the little details, and you can save up for those Primo
parts instead of settling for what the short-term budget will allow or what
the local yokels happen to have sitting on the shelf.

Good luck w/ your truck.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 12:18:18 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Straight six dog

At 11:05 AM 7/7/98 , you wrote:
>Anyways, the reason for this letter is I am looking for suggestions on
getting
>a few (50) more HP out of a 300 six cylinder. It runs great, but all top end
>goes down the toilet in overdrive. This is my brother's truck, (the one that
>got me hooked on flyin trucks) and welike to get a little more oomph out of
>her. Right now it's bone stock, and runnin great. Any suggestions would be
>greatly appreciated, Oh by the way we don't want to switch to a V-8 because
>of how light this 6 cylinder is.

Get an Offy 4bbl manifold and either a split cast exhaust manifold (two
pipes coming out of the manifold) or get headers for it. Call up Crower
for a healthy cam. They have a hydraulic Compu-Pro cam with 202/210
duration (.050") and .443/.448 lift that would work well in the big six.
The next step up would be the 210/210 grind, they claim that it is for hot
street/drag (strong upper-bottom and top-end). Strap on a Holley or
Carter/Edelbrock and your in business. Of course Crower does offer solid
tappet cams all the way up to 248/252 duration (.050") with 105 lobe
centers, but that may be a tad bit extreme for a street motor :) Bet that
six would sound good with that cam in it.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN PAGE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 10:31:10 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Straight six dog

At 12:05 PM 07/07/98 EDT, you wrote:
>Hello folks,
>
>Thanks again for all your input on whether or not I should yank my 390, I
>have a couple more things I want to check before I make any decisions, But I
>think if it comes down to it I will rebuild it myself. I spent a year
>building 3516's for Caterpillar, how hard can a 390 be?

Well, just don't forget the spark plugs, and that thing on the front is a
distributor, not a fuel pump! ;^]

marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca
67 mercury m250 4x4 410ci np435 np205

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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 10:52:16 -0700
From: tom
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cams Again ? ?

Hi Guys,

More Cam questions - I am lacking in general knowledge as to what makes
a cam aggressive or mild as far as duration and lift numbers go. What
would be considered a "high lift" cam. What would typical numbers for an
RV cam be?
What specs typically provide low end power vs high rev power and why
would one be desirable over the other?
Any and all info is appreciated.
Sleddog? Azzie? Steve? anyone else?

Thanks in advance
Tom
Always learning in Reno,NV

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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 11:28:23 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Straight six dog

Maybe but when it comes to sound there ain't NUTHIN' like the sound of a
good V8 to send chills up & down yer spine! IMNSHO all 6s sound like boat
motors.

- ----------
> From: Mike Schwall
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Straight six dog
> Date: Tuesday, July 07, 1998 10:18 AM
>



> Bet that six would sound good with that cam in it.
>

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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 14:37:35 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Cams Again ? ?

not much time, but here goes some generalizations:

lift and duration numbers for a small block, or a big block will be
different at the RV, or high lift cam level. a .525 lift is approaching
big on a 302, but just starting on a 460. a small roller cam makes more
power than a big flat tappet cam with the same dur and lift #'s

so, matching cam to engine is as important to matching cam to driving
needs.

overlap is how long the intake and exhaust is open at same time. overlap
is usually noted as lobe centers in degrees. it is not actual overlap, but
an indication of it. usually in the 106-114 deg area. the bigger the
number, the more it is geared towards low end torque, reducing overlap, and
keeping cylinder pressure at lower rpms. the smaller lobe centers mean
more high rpm potential and more overlap, and a rougher idle due to
increases overlap - loosing cylinder pressure at low rpms. i small engine
generally needs larger lobe centers. bigger engines get away with more
overlap.

for a 460, for example, i would consider a hydraulic cam with .525 lift and
dur at .050 of about 270-280, and lobe centers of around 112 a torque cam,
but at .580 lift and 300 dur at .050 with 108 lobe centers a cam to run in
the 3500 to 6500 range with a rough idle and poor low speed "drivability"
(a very subjective term)

remember , the same cam put into 2 different engines (of the same cid and
engine family) will run very different depending on the intake, heads,
exhaust, carb, etc.

well, did this explain anyting? or just raise more questions?

sleddog

- ----------
From: tom[SMTP:tom spp53.sppco.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 1998 1:52 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Cams Again ? ?

Hi Guys,

More Cam questions - I am lacking in general knowledge as to what makes
a cam aggressive or mild as far as duration and lift numbers go. What
would be considered a "high lift" cam. What would typical numbers for an
RV cam be?
What specs typically provide low end power vs high rev power and why
would one be desirable over the other?
Any and all info is appreciated.
Sleddog? Azzie? Steve? anyone else?

Thanks in advance
Tom
Always learning in Reno,NV


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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 15:01:33 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Straight six dog

Jumpin' Ford Person- (can't find your name in e-mail!)

Straight six a dog? Nahhh!!! 8-)

Finally! I get to talk about something I know a *little* about! I have a
'78 f-150 4x4 with a 300 I-6 running a offy manifold, 600cfm carter carb,
and '88 dual exhaust manifolds w/ dual exhaust running out the side infront
of each tire! Power is generated from about 1200-3000rpm with 4,000 rpm
redline on the stock cam, and with the clifford performance cam it came up
into power at about 1800-3500 with a 5500rpm max. (I went to dual exhaust
and 4bbl at the same time as the cam) As far as sound? Hearing my setup
tach up like that sounds just like a Cessna taking off. Unique, funny
even, but defenitely interesting! As far as weight? 300's weigh MUCH more
than a 302, and you can't build a 300 to compete speed (horsepower) wise
with a 302 with any kind of relative ease. If that's what you're looking
for, go with a 302 or 351windsor- same bolt pattern on bellhousing and
you'll enjoy the sound much more.
Tuning is a real pain too- If you decide to hop up the truck you'll find
this out in a hurry! But should you decide to go that route- I have a set
of Headers and a Holley 390cfm carb with quickchange vacuum kit and the
jets and springs you'll need for sale! Carb was new and only run for 1
week. I changed my mind and went with the Carter because I'm eventually
going to use it on a 460 and put the single barrel back on when the 460's
done.

Whatever you decide- if you have any questions I can be of use- e-mail me:

Tony
tony pscico.com
www.pscico.com/~tony

>Anyways, the reason for this letter is I am looking for suggestions on
getting
>a few (50) more HP out of a 300 six cylinder. It runs great, but all top end
>goes down the toilet in overdrive. This is my brother's truck, (the one that
>got me hooked on flyin trucks) and welike to get a little more oomph out of
>her. Right now it's bone stock, and runnin great. Any suggestions would be
>greatly appreciated, Oh by the way we don't want to switch to a V-8 because
>of how light this 6 cylinder is.
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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 15:30:07 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Np435 Clash

As I've posted before my 435 has some clash going into high sometimes
when the trans is fully warmed up. From looking at the exploded view of
it in my manual, it has to be either the splines on either the
mainshaft, input shaft or the clutch gear that couples them. But it
seems that if any of these were really bad it would do it the same when
cold. I don't want to ruin my trans, (it's the original one) I know
that for sure. But I also can't affford to throw parts at it either.

The other day I pulled the fill plug, it has always run fluid out, but
I'd cap it back up. This time I let it run out(cold, and on level
ground)and it ran out quite a bit of oil. It was clean, and appeared to
be 80-90w. When it was filled it must have been on uneven ground or
very cold out, causing it to take in more than it needs. I've driven it
for three days and so far no clash. It still has a little bit of a
dog-leg in the gate from N to 4th on occasion. Now, it's likely a
coincidence that is hasn't scratched yet, but has anyone had this
experience before?

If the clash stays away, or at least improve, that would probably point
to loose bearings wouldn't it? It shifts everywhere else perfectly, and
is as quiet as can be. Usually, in my experience, you'd have some other
symptoms if it needs rebuilt.

Advice, opinions?
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 15:43:23 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - One more 435

One more thing on the 435, is the only vent the one that points down
from the tailshaft housing? It doesn't seem to have one in the case at
all. If so, how does it vent the case? The tailshaft vent doesn't go
into the case at all AFAIK.
- --
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net
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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 16:58:02 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Np435 Clash

William L Ballinger wrote:

> The other day I pulled the fill plug, it has always run fluid out, but
> I'd cap it back up. This time I let it run out(cold, and on level
> ground)and it ran out quite a bit of oil. It was clean, and appeared to
> be 80-90w.

I thought the NP425/NP205 both took 140W?

When it was filled it must have been on uneven ground or
> very cold out, causing it to take in more than it needs. I've driven it
> for three days and so far no clash. It still has a little bit of a
> dog-leg in the gate from N to 4th on occasion. Now, it's likely a
> coincidence that is hasn't scratched yet, but has anyone had this
> experience before?

Mine used to leak between tranny/transfer big time, so I always
overfilled it. Never had a problem, but I did rebuild it with new
synchros, so yours may be marginal. BTW, mine grinds when it is cold.
It's fine when it's warmed up. weird!! :-)

OX
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Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 19:16:36 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Np435 Clash

At 03:58 PM 7/7/98 , you wrote:
> Mine used to leak between tranny/transfer big time, so I always
>overfilled it. Never had a problem, but I did rebuild it with new
>synchros, so yours may be marginal. BTW, mine grinds when it is cold.
>It's fine when it's warmed up. weird!! :-)
>OX

That's because the 140W oil is too thick when cold. Syncros are having a
hard time syncronizing with all the extra drag on the gears. I experience
almost the same thing with 80W-90 . Mine doesn't grind, it just doesn't
want to go into gear. You have to put (light) pressure on the shifter for
a few seconds before the gears mesh.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN PAGE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 20:58:04 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Thermostats and Heat Transfer - Cooling wars continue

bkirking wrote:


>I think you guys are also more interested in the specific heat capacity of
water,
>which, according to Howell and Buckius, Fundamentals of Engineering
>Thermodynamics, for a constant volume process the specific heat capacity is
>defined as partial derivative of internal energy with respect to
Temperature, or
>
>Cv= Uth - Utl / (Th - Tl)
>
>for water the T and U numbers are courtesy Howell and Buckius, I did the C
>calcuation, so hope this helps.
>
>T ( C) U (KJ/Kg) C(KJ/Kg*C)
>50 209.12 4.178
>55 230.01
>
>70 292.76 4.186
>75 313.70
>
>90 376.66 4.206
>95 397.69

Oh goody! Real formulas and numbers!
So it looks like the difference in specific heat capacity between 70C (158F)
90C (194F) is a little less than 0.5%
That's actually somewhat more than I expected it to be, but still rather
insignificant for our truck cooling puposes...


>According to Elements of Heat Transfer (bayazitoglu and ozisik) heat transfer
>due to convection is of the form q=h(t1-t2), where h is a function of the tube
>geometry, orientation (verticle vs horizontal), and speed of the air flow.
As the air
>speed can affect this equation radically, much attention is given to fans
and fan
>shrouds!

Uh oh, It appears I've erred.
It looks like convected heat transfer goes up linearly with temperature
differential, rather than as the square of...

Hmmm, I'm certain I've seen the "temperature differential squared" formula
used before. Is that correct for radiant heat or some other manner of heat
transfer? Or am I just way off base on that one?

Thanks for the education! I filed the formulas away for future reference...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

"Light fuse and get away. Do not hold in hand.
Use only under close adult supervision.
For outdoor use only."

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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 23:16:04 -0600
From: "Michael White"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - external ajustment for manual steering box?

After converting the front drums to power disc, and replacing all steering
and suspension items with new parts on my red 1969 F250 (execpt for the
gearbox), The truck still seems to have too much play in the steering. (I am
comparing the performance to my green 69 which has the same setup, and is
tight.) Rumor has it that if I turn a slot headed bolt clockwise (after
losening the locknut), that will "tighten up" the lose steering. Is this
true? If so, then how far should I rotate? Is a new gear box the only thing
that will make me happy? (everything else is new, WTF)

BTW: Power disc brakes are awesome!
(Heh...... Front drums brakes scare me)

Michael,
Red 69 F250, tired 360 (for now), auto
Green 69 F250, new 390 4b, T18, Dana 60 Posi 3.54 (Heh.... needs clutch)



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Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 10:03:45 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78 motor HP/torque figures

Somebody wanted these.

I pulled these HP torque figures from chiltons.

HP Torque

351M, 2bbl 145 3400 273 1800
400, 2bbl 160 3800 314 1800
460, 4bbl 202 4000 348 2000

All 8.0:1 compr

Pretty sad ratings :-(

OX
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Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 10:36:39 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - external ajustment for manual steering box?

At 11:16 PM 7/7/98 -0600, you wrote:
>After converting the front drums to power disc, and replacing all steering
>and suspension items with new parts on my red 1969 F250 (execpt for the
>gearbox), The truck still seems to have too much play in the steering. (I am
>comparing the performance to my green 69 which has the same setup, and is
>tight.) Rumor has it that if I turn a slot headed bolt clockwise (after
>losening the locknut), that will "tighten up" the lose steering. Is this
>true? If so, then how far should I rotate? Is a new gear box the only thing
>that will make me happy? (everything else is new, WTF)
>
>BTW: Power disc brakes are awesome!
>(Heh...... Front drums brakes scare me)
>
>Michael,
>Red 69 F250, tired 360 (for now), auto
>Green 69 F250, new 390 4b, T18, Dana 60 Posi 3.54 (Heh.... needs clutch)
>

Did you replace the rubber rag joint on the steering column?
I've done two of these conversions, one for a friend. The
results are well worth it and you can't tell the truck isn't
stock unless you look under it.

Ken Payne


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Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 12:11:10 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - external ajustment for manual steering box?

I may be wrong about this, but doesn't the 69 use the same rubber u-joint in
the steering column? Mine went out and if I hit a bump, I would find myself
in a different lane. If you have one I will almost guarantee that's what the
problem is
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Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 12:13:04 EDT
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 motor HP/torque figures

What year vehicles are these ratings? Sounds like something from the late
70's that was all choked up with smog equipment.
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Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 13:05:29 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 motor HP/torque figures

JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote:
>
> What year vehicles are these ratings? Sounds like something from the late
> 70's that was all choked up with smog equipment.

uuh!!!, "78 motor HP/torque figures" where from 1932 I think ;-)


OX
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Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 13:26:05 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Nominate Ford Truck Enthusiasts?

Well its that time again, Car Lounge is taking nominations for
the #1 automotive site for Autumn 98. Due to the support from
list members in the Spring, Ford Truck Enthusiasts won 1st
place for the Summer 98 award. If you would like to nominate
Ford Truck Enthusiasts, please visit:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://carlounge.com/nominate.htm

Thanks,....


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