FTE 61-79 - RE: DIFFERENT TYPES OF UNDERDASH A/C

61-79-list-digest Friday, July 3 1998 Volume 02 : Number 362

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - RE: DIFFERENT TYPES OF UNDERDASH A/C
[none]
FTE 61-79 - RE-66 Custom Cab, Data plate location?
FTE 61-79 - RE: Edelbrock Stinks
FTE 61-79 - Re:unnamed post about a 70 F-250 4X4
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE-66 Custom Cab, Data plate location?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Bypassing Heater Core for summer
FTE 61-79 - FW: WHITER-BRIGHTER RELAY MIRACLE
FTE 61-79 - FW: MORE A/C QUESTIONS
FTE 61-79 - RE: NEED SCHEMATICS FOR 72
Re: FTE 61-79 - Finally 1/4miled by truck -FYI
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: NEED SCHEMATICS FOR 72
Re: FTE 61-79 - Axle play
Re: FTE 61-79 - Axle play
Re: FTE 61-79 - Axle play
FTE 61-79 - AXLE WRAP
FTE 61-79 - Re: Question on Dealer Installed A/C
FTE 61-79 - T18/19 and NP transmissions
FTE 61-79 - Re: Edelbrock Stinks
FTE 61-79 - Schematics
[none]
Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 Custom Cab
FTE 61-79 - compression ratios
FTE 61-79 - Bypassing Heater Core for Summer
FTE 61-79 - re: 66 Custom Cab
RE: FTE 61-79 - AXLE WRAP
FTE 61-79 - RE: Air Conditioner Bracket- Replaceable
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Edelbrock Stinks

=======================================================================

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Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 22:09:22 -0400
From: "."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: DIFFERENT TYPES OF UNDERDASH A/C

- -----Original Message-----
From: . [SMTP:jerryrepka

unidial.com]
Sent: Thursday July 2, 1998 1998 7:40 PM
To: '61-79-list

ford-trucks.com'
Subject: RE: DIFFERENT TYPES OF UNDERDASH A/C

Hey Joe -
I see you found the AC unit you were looking for ! .....and 2 no Less !
You have got to tell me where this place is so I'll have someplace to
visit when I get up there.
The 1971 unit is the factory setup and is the unit that has the 2 hose
lines from the compressor running back to the center of the firewall, going
thru a large, approx 2-3/4 inch black rubber grommet, making an immediate
turn toward the glove box area. I have never seen a 6 cyl with factory AC
but I would imagine if the comp is on the LH side of the engine, the hoses
should run the same. The glove box liner is about
1-1/2 inches deep because of the control linkage and the evap
thermostat that sits up high right behind the center of the glove box.
The heater control panel with the AC in it fits exactly your old heater
control space, just add the new cables to the evap case. There are dimples
in the floor pan and on the firewall (on your present truck) for the spots
where the 2 heater hoses will be run (get these hoses new from Ford...they
are a bummer to change later) ...just drill the holes. The firewall bolts
(2) actually hold up the evap case. Make sure if you get the 71 ,you take
the rubber grommets for the heater hoses in the floor pan.
Which one to get ? ? ? Thats so easy ! ! ! ! !
When was the last time you owned a truck and had room for your maps,
sunglasses, tire gauge, fuses, aspirin, screwdrivers, matches, wifes
nailfiles, lipstick, etc., etc., etc.?
With the 71 setup, with the little extra box with the
magnetic catch, you can actually carry all of the above
AND
a set of gloves too ! ! ! ! Good Luck
Jerry

69 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW 40* Factory AC
70 F150 (ret)

Date: Sat, 27 Jun 1998 10:05:40 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Different types of Underdash A/C'???

Group,
maybe someone can help me..I just found 2 trucks 1-67 and 1 71-
that have 2 different types of under dash A/C????the 71's engulfs the
whole glove box and has a small storage area on the bottom which has
also a small magnetic door to close it...the 67 does not go into the
glove box ....Is one an aftermarket??or dealer installed???The A/C
lines also go through the firewall at different areas the 71 go
through the middle of the firewall(truck is a 6 cylinder do the lines
run the same for an eight??) and the 67 a/c lines run down below
the heat hoses...Which one would be better to add to my 68?????I also
noticed the 71 has A/c controls in with the heater controls the 67
doesnt??
Sorry its so long...I'm just shocked to find 2 trucks here in PA with
Air....

- - --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 19:24:47 PDT
From: "twisted hand"
Subject: [none]

hi..

i just bought a '70 f-250 4X4 360CI. It has had the original 3 speed
trans swapped for a 4 spd. How can i Identify the type of tranny? also
it has 4.11 gears (if i read the id plate right) how can i tell what
type of axles it has?.
this truck has 17 inch wheels and a very inaccurate speedo is it hard to
remedy this>>i also got a parts truck in the deal (i need to go tow it
home) it still has the drivetrain relatively intact, and looks the same.

thanks!!
Don Jones
Twistedhand

hotmail.com

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 21:37:42 -0500
From: Bill Adams
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE-66 Custom Cab, Data plate location?

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 14:11:23 -0400
From: "Melayne Arnold"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 Custom Cab

I'm new to the list and just bought a 66 longbed, 352 auto.
Bought it here in Mass., but originally from KS (have the owner's
manual w/ original owner info typed in!) I have a couple of
questions. On the ID numbers, the consecutive build number is
780420 - when was this built? Also, the paint code is BM, body
style C81, transmission C, gear ratio 17, and DSO of 53. Can

Where did you find the data plate to get that info from? I have a 66
Custom Cab and have looked for it with no luck?

Thanks in advance.
Bill Adams
1966 F-100 Custom Cab, 352 V8, PS, AC, Long bed
1961 F-100 Unibody, 223 and a three on the tree!

The WoodButcher's Shop
"http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/heartland/plains/6640"

,.-----__
_ ,:::://///,:::-.
_| ~~. /:''/////// `` ::`;/|/
\, *_} /' ( Ford ) :://'`\
\( .' , |||||| `/( e \
-===~__-'\____ ```\_____/~`-._ `.
~~ ~~ `~-'
**************************************************************

**************************************************************
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 20:44:50 -0600
From: dcbeatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Edelbrock Stinks

Wrote:

>That's one of my pet peeves with the Edelbrock carbs. You get this bare
>carb, either jetted for a 305 or a 454 Ch*vy, nothing in between, with
>no kickdown or throttle hookup. To set it up for anything you have to
>spend more money for their "setup kit". That's B.S. If they sell me a
>carb for a 390 it should be set up (jetted, rodded, and with all
>necessary appendages for a choke and kickdown) for that application,

All I'm wondering about is the kickdown. The choke and throttle are fine as
they came. AFAIK most new carbs are jetted for sea level. I'm at 6400 feet.
I didn't mind paying $5.00 for rods and jets. I've done it for Autolite
carbs, I did it for the Edelbrock.

>I've gone to their BBS at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.edelbrock.com and read some of the
>issues posted there,(I recommend that you post your question there and
>sit back for a good laugh) >

No time for laughs. Looking for experience on the subject. Did you need the
kickdown adapter?

Later,

Drew
dcbeatty

rmi.net

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Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 20:08:01 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:unnamed post about a 70 F-250 4X4

twisted hand wrote:

> hi..
>
> i just bought a '70 f-250 4X4 360CI. It has had the original 3 speed
> trans swapped for a 4 spd. How can i Identify the type of tranny? also
> it has 4.11 gears (if i read the id plate right) how can i tell what
> type of axles it has?.
> this truck has 17 inch wheels and a very inaccurate speedo is it hard to
> remedy this>>i also got a parts truck in the deal (i need to go tow it
> home) it still has the drivetrain relatively intact, and looks the same.
>
> thanks!!
> Don Jones
> Twistedhand

hotmail.com

Score!

You are gona have most likely ( I said likely, I know there are more) 2
choices, a T-18 or NP435. The NP435 will have a NP inside of a gear cast
in the side. The T-case if it is stock should be the Spicer 24, Dana 44
front 6" knuckles for light duty and 8" knuckles for the HD, and a Dana 60
rear.

Fixing the speedo means changing out the gear at the end of the shaft,
easy. Or go out and buy tires until you get it right ;)

I can't help you tow it home if I don't know where it's at.

Laters

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon

pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.

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Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 20:09:22 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE-66 Custom Cab, Data plate location?

Bill Adams wrote:

> Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 14:11:23 -0400
> From: "Melayne Arnold"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 Custom Cab
>
> I'm new to the list and just bought a 66 longbed, 352 auto.
> Bought it here in Mass., but originally from KS (have the owner's
> manual w/ original owner info typed in!) I have a couple of
> questions. On the ID numbers, the consecutive build number is
> 780420 - when was this built? Also, the paint code is BM, body
> style C81, transmission C, gear ratio 17, and DSO of 53. Can
>
> Where did you find the data plate to get that info from? I have a 66
> Custom Cab and have looked for it with no luck?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Bill Adams
> 1966 F-100 Custom Cab, 352 V8, PS, AC, Long bed
> 1961 F-100 Unibody, 223 and a three on the tree!

Door. Drivers Door.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon

sarc.msstate.edu]
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 1998 8:33 PM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bypassing Heater Core for summer

My question: can anyone imagine a downside to letting the heater core sit
unhooked until the fall, when I need heat and hook it up again? It has some
coolant in it. Is it likely to gunk up or anything? I suppose I could blow
it out with compressed air, if that was a good idea, or plug up the inlets.

Comments anyone?

Thanks

Nils Gore

'73 F100, 302
"64 F100, (to be determined...)
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 22:25:15 -0400
From: "."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FW: WHITER-BRIGHTER RELAY MIRACLE

- -----Original Message-----
From: . [SMTP:jerryrepka

unidial.com]
Sent: Monday, June 29, 1998 9:34 PM
To: '61-79-list

ford-trucks.com'
Subject: RE: WHITER-BRIGHTER RELAY MIRACLE

Hey Rogers -

I just went through weeks of trying to locate these relays in
auto stores and eventually found a better answer.
1. Take your yellow page book and look up electronic parts
suppliers for TV or radio.
2. Walk into store.
3. Ask for Bosch-type 12-volt relay. (You will actually be
greeted with a smile and the counterman will actually
go and get one for you )- No Questions Asked ! ! ! You
don't need numbers. You don't need models. You
don't need 'nuttin !
4. Be prepared to pay much less than you would have paid
for it in an auto parts store.

This type of store is used to selling large volumes of
these relays for applications other than automotive. Now all
you have to do is hope you have one near you. Its worth it
though. When you see the brightness of the *new* lites, you
won't believe it ! !
Good Luck
Jerry

1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW + brite lites
1970 F150 (ret)

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 17:42:26 -0400
From: "Rogers"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Whiter/Brighter - Relay-Lowering

The article on whiter brights on the FTE homepage is excellent, except it
does not specify which relay is used. I just came back from Murrays Parts
and though helpful, the counterperson pulled out every relay BUT one like
the "Bosch" type Steve Delanty described.
Could anyone provide me with a part number/manufacturer for the relay?

On the other side of the vehicle, (Underside) has anyone out there lowered
a 1970 F100. What is the best way? Who are some suppliers of componentry?

Regards,
Rogers B. Morris, Jr..
rbmii

msn.com
1970 F100 No major mods, YET!
1997 Taurus SHO No mods needed, YET!

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Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 22:25:58 -0400
From: "."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FW: MORE A/C QUESTIONS

- -----Original Message-----
From: . [SMTP:jerryrepka

unidial.com]
Sent: Monday, June 29, 1998 8:39 PM
To: '61-79-list

ford-trucks.com'
Subject: RE: MORE A/C QUESTIONS

Warren A -

I hope the black box you are talking about is the evaporator
case. If it is, you may have a hard time to find a new one.
I've looked at a lot of AC units in yards over the last few years and
have not seen one yet that isn't cracked or rusted......and thats before
some butcher tries to cut or yank it out for you because the yard won't
let you pull it.
If you take the box apart to clean the dog and pussy hair and paper
clips out of it , (which you should do anyway), just
cut some sheet metal and make up a piece to replace or
reinforce the rusted piece (usually the door) and either
epoxy it or rivet it in. The case can be patched with some
F/Glass & cloth (if you want to get fancy) or just some plain
old bondo will work just great. It will probably be
stronger than new besides.
...

the exp valve.....don't be too worried about this.
I have done a lot of AC repair and I haven't seen too many
valves that match up exactly. Even similar model boxed valves
from any given company may contain valves sourced from
different suppliers which may look slightly different but
do the same job......to precisely meter refridgerant into an
evap core based on bulb temperature (load)
Here is all four (4) things you need to do. Make sure the
valve you get is for R-12, has the correct size inlet
and outlet threads, has a bulb (on a *wire*) to connect to the
outlet pipe, and matches the temp range you are trying to
achieve. If you've done all this, it don't matter what the
dam* thing looks like !
There is one more thing. Valves also are classed by
load or compressor size. This shouldn't be a factor
because you are buying an automotive valve. If you get
one from a commercial refrigeration supply house, they
may ask you HP on the comp. No biggy !
Cleaning the evap is best done with an alkaline evap
cleaning solution. I personally don't like the acid based
ones. (Ever forget to wash your jeans after you carried
an old battery ? ) You can get this at a Home Depot even or a parts house
for refrigeration supplies. Dilute it in a spray
bottle, spray it on, let it sit, wash it off with water. It will
sparkle like new.
Just a guess, but the city control probably uses
mostly inside air from the cab to circulate thru the core.
(Thought is ...slower moving traffic in city, terrible smelling
outside air ( I've seen NYC) , low vehicle speed, low airflow across
condenser, less temp drop across coil-so lets recool the clean air inside
the cab we just cooled and dehumidified.)
Highway probably mixes in more outside (hot)
(albeit *Fresh*) air to circulate thru the core. (Thought is.... faster
traffic on highway, more speed, less chance for
smelly city air to enter vehicle, more airflow across
condenser, more temp drop across evap coil.
It may appear Highway position should give you
colder air temp but it won't because you are bringing in
a higher volume of outside (hotter) (but fresher) air so the
heat load on the system is actually higher which reduces
the efficiency and ultimately the outlet temp. City will
probably produce your lowest temp in cab.

Jerry

1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW 40* Factory AC
1970 F150 (ret)

- ----------
From: 61-79-list-digest[SMTP:owner-61-79-list-digest

ford-trucks.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 28, 1998 3:08 PM
To: 61-79-list-digest

ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V2 #357

61-79-list-digest Sunday, June 28 1998 Volume 02 : Number 357

Date: Sat, 27 Jun 1998 16:51:25 -0400
From: "Warren Anderson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - More A/C Questions

I have a '78 Ford F-100 that had the option of dealer installed A/C. The
only thing that have had to start with was just the evaporator and the
black
box that it goes in with the fan attach and it also had the expansion valve
still attached. I bought all the parts I needed to install the A/C. When I
took out the black box I notice that it had some cracks and chunks of
plastic missing so it is not repairable. The evaporator looks like it was
not use much and I can see through it. What is the best way to clean the
old
evaporator? One question is does Ford sell that box if I cannot find it at
a
junk yard? Are the boxes different from year to year? Another is when I
compared the expansion valve with the one I took out they were different
even though I ask for the dealer installed expansion valve from Auto-Zone.
The new one had only two openings and the old had four for hoses. I took it
down to Auto-Zone and guy said it looks like an H-block that d*dge uses he
referred me to auto A/C specialist which I have not checked yet. Also how
is
the A/C setup I noticed that the expansion valve that was in it had the
wire
to sense the temp from evaporator was broken off and there was another wire
coming from the controls for the air that went to the evaporator. The
controls are labeled as OFF,ON, CITY, HIGHWAY what is the difference
between
the city and highway controls does one get colder than the other? Any help
would be great.

Warren A.
Hot and smoky Florida
'78 F-100 351M C6

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Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 23:02:40 -0400
From: "."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: NEED SCHEMATICS FOR 72

** Mike in Seattle writes - - - - Do you have any schematics for 72 ?

>Mike in Seattle -
> Haynes, the company that publishes Automotive Repair Manuals, (not to be
>confused with the undy company) currently has a manual for 73-79 F-series
>+ Broncos. There are boo-koo schematics in this book for all years, all
>models, all options, etc., etc. Usually found in Pep Boys stores,
>etc.....and probably Kragens too.......(..seems everybody gets everything
>there !)
> I have used it on my 69-72 trucks and have found the schematics match
>almost exactly, right down to the color code and circuit number. In fact,
>I can't remember if I ever found a case when they didn't match exactly .
>Jerry
>
>1969 F350 Dually reefer 351W AOD PS PB PW PL haynes wiring
>1970 F100 (ret)
>
>From: GMPACHECO

aol.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 67 Wiring Schematic
>
>

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Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 23:48:11 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Finally 1/4miled by truck -FYI

did you do any port work on the exhaust?this alone will alow the engine to get
past the 4000 rpm range.a stealth intake with a 850 double pumper will really
make it perform,with these low cost mods you'll lose some of that low end
torque but the gain on the other end will be worth it,you can gain some of the
take off back with
4.11 gears,and a set of traction bars made from 4"channel,you can hardly see
them
but you can feel it when you kick it.
a larger cam will work nice with the larger intake,carb and exhaust
porting.
this should get you in the low 15's possibly high 14's,i've helped a couple of
my buddies with their trucks,one is a 1969 with a 428,4spd it runs in the low
14's
and the other has a lwb 69 with a .060 over 390,2 fours and automatic it runs
high 14's
like the rest of us poor ford nuts,money may be the issue with the mods i
mentioned,but if you don't already have it done,the first place i would start
is the
exhaust porting.with a larger cam,intake,carb etc.they will not be beneficial
unless
you port the exhaust ports

just some food for thought,
good luck. jeff grant
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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 00:09:32 EDT
From: GMPACHECO

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: NEED SCHEMATICS FOR 72

Jerry, thanks I'll give that a try...

Mike In Seattle
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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 00:35:27 -0400
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Axle play

- ----------
> From: sdelanty

sonic.net
>
> Here's my question tho. Both the axles have about 1/8" of end play.
> With the rear jacked up You can grab the wheel and move it in/out 1/8".
> The bearings are fairly new and are in good shape and they are pressed
> firmly onto the shaft. The bearing O.D. fits the housing fairly snugly
> and there's no sign that the bearing has been spinning in the housing,
> it's just that it is free to move side to side an 1/8" of in the
housing...
>
> What's up with that?

Steve, the first thing that comes to mind are checking the installation of
the bearings again for proper location on the shaft and check the axle
retainer plates for correct fit and wear. I will tell you though that I
have not put too much thought into this answer but these are my first
thoughts. I will check the Ford manual in the morning for runout checks.

> Is this normal?

NOT

I know you Steve and I won't bother asking if it is really 1/8" play, if
you say so I can take that to the bank.

> Is there something missing in mine that is supposed to take up end
thrust?
> I don't see anything in the exploded 9" picture in my chiltons book
that
> mine doesn't have...

Steve I know that it's not "legal" but you know how much I care about
someone coming after me for something like copying a page or two from a
manual. So if you like I will send you the Ford stuff on this rearend. Let
me know, Do you have FAX?

"It's 4:19, got a minute?"

John Miller, FoMoCoNUT

Gibralter.net
96 F-350 Reg Cab XLT, 4x4, 460 w/ A4OD, My Baby "Baloo"
75 F-100 Reg Cab Ranger, 2wd, 360, C6, Daily Driver "Lucy"
and "always" looking ! ! !
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Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 22:33:25 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Axle play

>> Here's my question tho. Both the axles have about 1/8" of end play.
>> With the rear jacked up You can grab the wheel and move it in/out 1/8".
>> The bearings are fairly new and are in good shape and they are pressed
>> firmly onto the shaft. The bearing O.D. fits the housing fairly snugly
>> and there's no sign that the bearing has been spinning in the housing,
>> it's just that it is free to move side to side an 1/8" of in the
>> housing...
>>
>> What's up with that?

>Steve, the first thing that comes to mind are checking the installation of
>the bearings again for proper location on the shaft and check the axle
>retainer plates for correct fit and wear. I will tell you though that I
>have not put too much thought into this answer but these are my first
>thoughts. I will check the Ford manual in the morning for runout checks.

Thanks John. I found a better exploded drawing of mine today, but still
don't have an end play spec. I really suspect it's less than 1/8"...
The bearings are pressed all the way to the shoulder on the axle and the
lock ring is up snug against the bearing. Neither the housing or the
retainer plate *appears* to show any wear. Certainly no wear that would
give that much clearance. I'm rather baffled...

If You find the spec wold You send it please?

>> Is this normal?

>NOT

Yeah, that's kinda what I think. But I can't see anything screwed up.
Maybe the bearings are wrong? Too narrow? Wrong retainer plates maybe?

>I know you Steve and I won't bother asking if it is really 1/8" play, if
>you say so I can take that to the bank.

I didn't put the dial indicator on it, but my eyeballometer says it's
between 0.10" and 0.15". Both sides are about the same.

>manual. So if you like I will send you the Ford stuff on this rearend. Let
>me know, Do you have FAX?

I've got some good shop manual drawings, but would like an end play spec
if You've got it. Don't have a fax...

>"It's 4:19, got a minute?"

You Betcha.

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

"Light fuse and get away. Do not hold in hand.
Use only under close adult supervision.
For outdoor use only."

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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 02:01:16 -0400
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Axle play

- ----------
> From: sdelanty

sonic.net
>
> >"It's 4:19, got a minute?"
>
> You Betcha.

:) hey bud, it won't be long and I will be saying good-bye to the Corps and
then....... :) can you say .... Doooooobige :)

JOHN
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 02:09:09, -0500
From: BJGR47D

prodigy.com (MR RYAN STACK)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AXLE WRAP

I have a 72' Bronco with a 3 3/4" lift. every time I pop the clutch
or just floor it in reverse the rear axle wraps. I was wondering what
could be done to cure this problem. I've been told to get rid of the
lift blocks and just get a bigger leaf pack. I've also been told to
have double shocks installed. I'd like to know if that would help or
if anyone has a better suggestion.

I'd also like to know all of the vehicles that the 351C came in.

Thanks
Ryan
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 14:09:25 -0600
From: Jamey Moss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Question on Dealer Installed A/C

John Strauss wrote:

> Joe & Jen DeLaurentis wrote:
>>
>> Anybody have any info on 67-72 Dealer installed A/C????i just pulled
>> a factory A/C system and a Dealer installed one too.. I like
>> the dealer installed one it lets you keep your original glove box...
>> And fits around the blower motor and original heater core..anybody
>> out there with one like this????I would like to hear from you..
>
> I have an ARA unit in my '68 F250. What do you want to know? If yours has
> a "Ford" blue oval on it and goes all the way across the dash you might try
> to talk to Jamey Moss, he just pulled one out of a '72 Ranger XLT.

Joe,

I don't know how much help I can give you because mine hadn't worked for 5
years before I pulled it -- it had a major leak somewhere but I never found
it. It worked for 20 years before that in the West Texas heat, so it should
keep you nice and cool when you get it working. I don't know how to fix it or
install it, all I know is how to pull it out, but it looks like you already
know how to do that ;-). Where do you live? I have the entire underdash
unit (with all the knobs and vents) that you can have for free if you want it
for spare parts. I live in Austin, Texas, but I imagine that shipping
something that large might be cost prohibitive.

Good luck,

Jamey Moss ra4001

email.sps.mot.com
67 F100
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 01:13:35 -0700
From: "Douglas W. Hack"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - T18/19 and NP transmissions

Thanks to all who responded to my query about strong Ford parts.
Several of you suggested that the first gear in a T-18 or NP435 would be
low enough, without a high/low in the drivetrain. Probably right, and
simple is good. I'm still curious about heavy-duty 5-speeds. Are there
no affordable strong 5-speeds? With a wide=range 5-speed I could use a
moderate ratio rear end and have a super-low and an over-drive -- the
best of both worlds.

Someone (thanks) recommended a 5-speed NV4500 as used in Dodge/GM
applications since '92 as being very strong. Is this substantially
stronger than the Ford ZF units? How hard will it be to adapt to a Ford
400M bell-housing? (and later a 460?) I'm not much worried about
adapting the driveshaft end.

I liked the site for the auxiliary transmission, but $2,300 is a couple
of thousand too high for me. If something similar was available at
wrecking yards (cheap) it could be an option. Does anyone know what the
torque ratings were on the electrically-actuated overdrives that used to
be relatively common on three-speed manuals?

I think I've heard that the ratio's in T-18's vary depending on the
application they were originally installed in. I have one from a 78
F250 that I could use, if its first ratio is pretty close to the NP235,
otherwise I think I'd do better getting a NP. (or a 5-speed) Anyone
have a good reference for T-18's?

Thanks for the help and advice. Doug Hack
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 05:08:30 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Edelbrock Stinks

>Hey Bill !!!! Wouldn't be a little PO'd at them would you????????
>
>I agree totally with your reasoning, but I have never personally dealt with
>them, so I can't say anything. When spending hard earned cash on something
>"application specific", then I expect it to be complete and useable as
>purchased.

You ain't just a woofin'!

I've assisted in the installation of a couple of the AFB clones. On a manual
trans, manual or electric choke application, they're fine (after you make
the throttle linkage) at least until you fire it up. Then you find out if
the builder was in a 305 or a 454 mood that day, cause it will be one or the
other. Of course, if you bought the recommended tuning kit, you'll have the
metering rods and everything (except new gaskets so be careful) to make it
run for your application. Disassemble a brand new street carb? Yeah, that's
just good old-fashioned hot rodding!

One poor sod on the BBS had bought a set of heads that wouldn't hold a set
of gaskets for more than 10.000 miles. Money back? ha! He must have
installed them wrong (twice). I won't tell anyone what to do, but my
brother-in-law has installed two of their intakes and got an oil-pan full
of calf-sh*t for his trouble. Porosity, sloppy casting, and a screw-you
attitude, that's my idea of a fine establishment....
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr

ldd.net

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 05:12:10 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Schematics

>O.K. Ken, when are you going to start selling these through the web site??
>I could use one for the 66.

Me too.
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr

ldd.net

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 05:16:29 -0500
From: ballingr

ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: [none]

>Now if I could remember who was looking for the bed....

I think it was Birken.
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr

ldd.net

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 08:47:23 EDT
From: Trs2000

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 Custom Cab

I also have a 66 f100, and I'm looking to get mine up to "running condition".
I'm currently in the process of converting to ps and pb. As for the interior
there are many suppliers out there for Seat cover kits: McCullough's
949-548-1543, Custom interiors 1-800-423-6053.

You might want to check with a local upholstery shop. I found one that will
recover mine for 140.00. The seat kits run around 100.00
good luck on your project.

Trs2000
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 07:55:52 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - compression ratios

>The optimal rod to stroke ratio is
said to be 2.2:1.

Hi Tom,
thanks for the response.......actually I intended that post to go to the
perf. list, (oops!), but it's mostly the same people here so I guess it
really doesn't matter. I remember the "long rod" thread from this spring
and I found the first part of the HR article, "The engine that Ford should
have built", that you mentioned but I couldn't find the conclusion that was
supposed to be in the next months issue....frustrating. I looked in the
archives too but didn't find and got tired of looking.
With a R/S ratio of 2.2:1 a 4" stroke gives a rod length of 8.8"!!! That
doesn't sound like it will happen in any motor I'll ever put together.
One thing I found interesting in the HR article was that they built a 351W
using 400 rods. Gee, a 351 Ford with 400 rods.........sounds like a 351M to
me!
later,
dale c

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 10:00:10 -0400
From: Chip Rosan
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bypassing Heater Core for Summer

Why not install a 3/4" ball valve to cut off flow to the inlet side of
the heater core? Seems I had a similar setup (factory) on a '70 F100
that was controlled by the heater control.

That would allow for cutting the flow to the core off in summer, turning
it back on when the weather gets cool (cold in Mississippi??). Also
would allow for auxiliary cooling if needed to overcome an overheating
problem.

Chip
'65 F100 4x2 Shortbed (in pieces now.)

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Jul 98 10:14:00 EST
From: HALE

neesnet.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - re: 66 Custom Cab

Thanks everyone for your help w/ the ID numbers. I feel better
about the original condition of my truck - was concerned that ID
showed a manual trans., where I have Cruise-O-Matic, but I had
misread the plate. Any advice on the stock air cleaner?

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 10:34:31 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - AXLE WRAP

what can be done to cure it? well, don't floor it!

anyway, tossing the lift blocks will help, but if you got the power and the
traction, it will still be a problem. does it do it in forward also??

if it is only in reverse i would first check to see if the front of the
leaf packs have the bands around them. if they don't clamping the leaves
should help, but at a price of stiffer suspension and less overall flexing
ability.

secondly you can use traction bars, but they also limit suspension flex.

you can use those kicker shocks, but they are worthless IMHO on anything
with more than 4cyl. and 32" tires.

if you have the ability to make brackets and fabricate/machine things i can
tell you what my fix for spring wrap is on my 77. it works great, but you
loose a little ground clearance if you go rock crawling alot.

and of course, there is the double shackle 3-bar suspension idea...

sleddog

- ----------
From: MR RYAN STACK[SMTP:BJGR47D

prodigy.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 1998 8:00 PM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AXLE WRAP

I have a 72' Bronco with a 3 3/4" lift. every time I pop the clutch
or just floor it in reverse the rear axle wraps. I was wondering what
could be done to cure this problem. I've been told to get rid of the
lift blocks and just get a bigger leaf pack. I've also been told to
have double shocks installed. I'd like to know if that would help or
if anyone has a better suggestion.

I'd also like to know all of the vehicles that the 351C came in.

Thanks
Ryan
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 10:12:06 -0500
From: "J Elliott"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Air Conditioner Bracket- Replaceable

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 10:05:06 +0000
From: tfmf211

murphyfarms.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Air Conditioner Bracket- Replaceable

snip

If this place
is like where my Dad lives, it'll take at least 5 yrs to get on the
"B" list and 10 to get to the "A".

If it is a small town in NC, you are right. The indigenous subculture does
not stand with open arms. Where are you at?

Maybe I'll make the trek to the "big city" of Raleigh, NC next week. I had
to go there to get my new A/C hoses made. I'm sure they will have something
there. Thanks for the feedback!
- -Ted

I lived in Raleigh for several years. There is a Dixie Bearing there that is
very good, I used to buy a lot of odd bearings for eqpt. maintenance from
them. If you are comfortable spec'ing the bearing over the phone, you can
probably get them to ups to you. If not, take yours in, and they can
probably match it. There are also some sizable junk yards in the area you
might want to check out.

Jim Elliott

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 09:37:35 -0700
From: sdelanty

sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Edelbrock Stinks

Bill wrote:
>You ain't just a woofin'!
>
>I've assisted in the installation of a couple of the AFB clones. On a manual
>trans, manual or electric choke application, they're fine (after you make
>the throttle linkage) at least until you fire it up. Then you find out if
>the builder was in a 305 or a 454 mood that day, cause it will be one or the
>other. Of course, if you bought the recommended tuning kit, you'll have the
>metering rods and everything (except new gaskets so be careful) to make it
>run for your application. Disassemble a brand new street carb? Yeah, that's
>just good old-fashioned hot rodding!
>
>One poor sod on the BBS had bought a set of heads that wouldn't hold a set
>of gaskets for more than 10.000 miles. Money back? ha! He must have
>installed them wrong (twice). I won't tell anyone what to do, but my
>brother-in-law has installed two of their intakes and got an oil-pan full
>of calf-sh*t for his trouble. Porosity, sloppy casting, and a screw-you
>attitude, that's my idea of a fine establishment....

I totally agree with Bill about the quality of edelbrock customer service.
They pretty well suck, and trying to get useful info out of them is like
giving an elephant an enema. It's gonna be messy and not very pleasant and
all You'll get for Your trouble is a bunch of sh!t.
And I agree with the comment about sloppy casting quality.
I've already had that experiance with an E-broke 390 performer manifold.
Talk about a junk casting... it was HORRIBLE.
I also agree about the transmission linkage problem on the ebrock carb.
Edelbrock should have the linkage thing figured out by now and be able to
provide the correct part to make it work right with a C-6. There's no
excuse for that still being a problem.

What I don't understand is the complaint about "incorrect" jetting.?
I think it's unreasonable to expect any "out of a box" carburetor to
be jetted correctly when You buy it...
"Correct" jetting for any vehicle depends on sooo many different things.
Any changes to the motor or the amount of work it has to do can change the
ideal jetting requirements. Changes in exhaust system, intake, cam, heads,
tranny/rear axle gear ratios, ignition advance curves, driving style and
much more, can effect correct jetting. How is edelbrock supposed to know
what combination of performance parts and gearing, etc, *You* have?
Just look at the "stock" 390 with a stock motorcraft 2100 2-bbl carb...
Ford put all kinds of different jets in the 2100 to make it work with the
wide variety of "stock" 390's that were produced in a wide variety of
vehicles...
I thought that usually the reason to choose an aftermarket "performance"
carburetor was because they are so adjustable and allow You to dial in
the jetting for "Your particular application". If You aren't going to
take the time and trouble to jet it right, then why not just buy any $15
wrecking yard 4-bbl, slap it on and say "I are a hot rodder." ?
Carburetor tuning is definately "good old-fashioned hot rodding". Mostly....

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