61-79-list-digest Tuesday, June 23 1998 Volume 02 : Number 352



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Need a camber spec for '71 F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - re: 410 Merc
FTE 61-79 - oil pressure (lack of)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Merc-o-matic
RE: FTE 61-79 - engine weights...
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78' Bronco Tailgate
RE: FTE 61-79 - concrete blocks
FTE 61-79 - help
FTE 61-79 - Running hot
FTE 61-79 - R134 conversion
Re: FTE 61-79 - help
Re: FTE 61-79 - Running hot
FTE 61-79 - pwr stering on '76 4X4
FTE 61-79 - Idle Problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - Idle Problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 F-100 4X4 Draglink replacement
Re: FTE 61-79 - re: 410 Merc
FTE 61-79 - Edelbrock cam and Balinger
FTE 61-79 - history lesson
Re: FTE 61-79 - F100 Rear springs
FTE 61-79 - RE: 134a conversion?
FTE 61-79 - Re: 76 f100 running hot in houston Tx
FTE 61-79 - Power Steering- Wander
Re: FTE 61-79 - Running hot
FTE 61-79 - Concrete blocks
FTE 61-79 - 62 B600 352?
FTE 61-79 - 65-79 Headliner material
FTE 61-79 - Bronco Overheating on Interstate
FTE 61-79 - VIN-Door Tags
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 76 f100 running hot in houston Tx
Re: FTE 61-79 - Running hot
RE: FTE 61-79 - Concrete blocks
Re: FTE 61-79 - Idle Problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - Bronco Overheating on Interstate
FTE 61-79 - AUX FUEL TANKS
Re: FTE 61-79 - impact wrench

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:39:31 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Need a camber spec for '71 F100

> Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 20:44:17 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Steve & Rockette
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Need a camber spec for '71 F100

> Did Turbocad calculate the final spring weight? Cutting coils off a
> spring increases the springs rate of compression, I cant seem to
> find the calculation when I need it though, I do have it written
> down someplace, I've lost the place.......

Springs are linear so if you have a 15" spring and cut 1" off you
gain 6.75% in resistance and lose 6.75% in compressable distance.
Look at the percentage not the actual measurement you cut off :-)

So if it's a 200# spring the first inch of movement will require
1.0675 * 200# to move it and coil bind will occure 6.75% sooner.


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 07:45:38 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - re: 410 Merc

Thanks for your message at 09:58 AM 6/23/98 +0000, Gary, 78 BBB. Your
message was:
>> Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 15:02:04 -0700
>> From: Dennis Pearson
>> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - re: 410 Merc
>
>> The guy should give it to me, since he's my father-in-law.
>
>Be carefull there! I gave my 92 bird to the guy who was my
>daughter's fiance but they broke up about 5 minutes after I gave it
>to him.................now I feel sorry for him cuz he doesn't have a
>good job (pay wise) and it feels like renigging (is that a racist
>word?, seriously?) so he still drive it every day. Got about 120k on
>it now but still runs like new :-)

That comment on my posting was really a private joke (very private--I would
be the only one who got it), because my father-in-law is a year or two
older than I am and we're always trying to swap stuff. If anything, I
should give him a car. He needs one, since he's a "bow-tie guy." I'm
getting him more and more into the big blue oval, though (along with our
mutual neighbor, Levi).

I do wish someone would give me a 92 Bird, tho. Trouble is, I'd probably
just try to figure which 62 truck to use the running gear...my Ford Truck
comes first ( he said as it sits in the driveway with a dead battery--but
that's a different thread...).
1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1970 Marquis 429
1973 Mustang 302 (tired)
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
!962 Unibody short box (shell) just parked the trailer in my backyard.
It's gonna be a convertible!

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:48:10 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - oil pressure (lack of)

Keith sparks writes: >>after warm up on the interstate it reads 25
pounds..at idle it reads 0......nothing knocks or rattles...bad gauge? bad
pump? or bad mains??? any help would be appreciated

You don't say which engine, but it really doesn't matter in the case of the
oil pressure. Most likely it is too many miles - worn bearings. This is
the classic indicator of such at any rate. Main and rod bearings can be
replaced with out breaking down the complete engine. Not easy - but can be
done. I personally never replace the bearings with out replacing the oil
pump, but this is just a quirk of mine. If you have no knocks - bangs -
and rattles, and are not planning on any high speed chases of extra heavy
hauling, I would run it until I started to get valve rattle(assuming you
have hydraulic valves). Usually the valve rattle is a good 1st indicator
of needing to O'haul.

JMHO.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 07:51:11 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Merc-o-matic

Thanks for your message at 10:29 AM 6/23/98 -0400, am14 chrysler.com. Your
message was:
>Dennis P writes: >>So the Merc o matic is basically scrap metal, right?
>
>Actually the Cruise o matic(Merc o Matic) is the forerunner to the famous
>C-6. Lots of commonality, but the C-6 is a better transmission. If the
>Cruise o matic is in working order and a front seal/rear seal and filter
>change is all it needs, I would use it until it gave up completely and then
>look around for a C-6 FE specific.
>

Thank you for finally straightening this out for me. A little bit of
information (but not enough) can be confusing.
Also, I forgive you for forgetting who asked about the 410. I'm getting
more and more enthused about this acquisition (if it actually happens).
1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1970 Marquis 429
1973 Mustang 302 (tired)
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
!962 Unibody short box (shell) just parked the trailer in my backyard.
It's gonna be a convertible!

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 07:55:20 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - engine weights...

Thanks for your message at 10:08 AM 6/23/98 -0400, Sleddog. Your message was:
>i don't know what it really is, but it is marketed specifically for engine
>blocks. don't know if regular concrete/sacrete would work. after it is
>dry, the top layer is smooth, not rouch like most concretes. but, i know
>it is REAL HEAVY!! a bare 460 block is a back breaker, and when filled, is
>heavier than i ever expected when i went to pick it up.
>
>there are several brands of block fill, some require minutes to take a set,
>some take hours. different people i understand have their own prefference.
> i didn't fill mine as it was a used block already filled - so i really
>have no experence with pouring one.
>

Uhh? Is this something along the line of planting flowers in old toilets
and puttinging them in the front yard?
Is this a regional thing?
Can a damn yankee get into this?

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:58:38 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78' Bronco Tailgate

> From: "Gregory A. Bunton"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78' Bronco Tailgate
> Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:27:57 -0400

> Hello all...I'm kinda new to the list....well anyway I'll get on
> with the quesion/problem. Today my back window went down...but I
> can't put it up!! All of a sudden It won't work. The key switch has
> never worked, so I used the switch on the dashboard..but now that
> doesn't work either. Any suggestions?? Any help would be
> appreciated!!!

Open the tail gate and take off the cover panel. There are several
connectors in there but the one that I had trouble with was where the
harness connected to the motor. Pull it off and replug it several
times and try it again. There are switches in the locking dogs that
won't allow the window to operate when the tail gate is open so close
it first and then try to raise it. It may take a few attempts to get
a good connection. If you know how to take the spades out of the
plug you can get them out and crimp them a bit and put it back
together with silicon grease on the spades and it will keep it from
corroding again.

As for the Key switch, I found I only have 2v reaching the harness on
that leg so the problem is up front somewere on mine.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 11:15:14 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - concrete blocks

hmmm, i reread this and i see - it does sound like that. but i am a damn
yankee and there's no flowers growing out of my engine block!

when an engine block is bored oversize to an extreme, the cylinder walls
get very thin and weak. by filling the water jacketing up to the bottom of
the water inlets, the block is again made stronger and there is usually
enough cooling left for short competitions like drags, or pulling.
sometimes the whole jacketing is filled and water is only flowed thru the
heads.

this is an old practice that to my knowledge dates back to the 50's, and
maybe earlier but i am not sure.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Dennis Pearson[SMTP:dpearson ctc.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 1998 10:55 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - engine weights...

Thanks for your message at 10:08 AM 6/23/98 -0400, Sleddog. Your message
was:
>i don't know what it really is, but it is marketed specifically for engine
>blocks. don't know if regular concrete/sacrete would work. after it is
>dry, the top layer is smooth, not rouch like most concretes. but, i know
>it is REAL HEAVY!! a bare 460 block is a back breaker, and when filled,
is
>heavier than i ever expected when i went to pick it up.
>
>there are several brands of block fill, some require minutes to take a
set,
>some take hours. different people i understand have their own
prefference.
> i didn't fill mine as it was a used block already filled - so i really
>have no experence with pouring one.
>

Uhh? Is this something along the line of planting flowers in old toilets
and puttinging them in the front yard?
Is this a regional thing?
Can a damn yankee get into this?

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 11:27:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rob Long
Subject: FTE 61-79 - help

Hey ! Now can you all see this ?? I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong !! :7,

Thanks! Rob


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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 11:40:21 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Running hot

Genesis Sanchez writes: >> she's running hot in the city, on the hwy she's
o.k'

I know you said you had changed the radiator, but your symptoms still
indicate not enough cooling capacity. Either you haven't enough air being
pulled/pushed through the radiator or the radiator capacity is insufficient
or the heat transfer is sufficient. Is your shroud correct??? I'm willing
to bet that your new radiator is too small, but that's mere speculation.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 11:46:11 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - R134 conversion

Kevin Bredenstein Writes:
to 134 without changing the whole system?I have a 86 taurus and it has the
r12 system i want 134a so what must i do? please be as detailed as possible
thanks

Please give this answer in universal terms - I own some of those "other"
brands that need converting, also.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:50:02 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - help

Thanks for your message at 11:27 AM 6/23/98 -0400, Rob Long. Your message was:
>Hey ! Now can you all see this ?? I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong !!
:7,
>
>Thanks! Rob
>
I don't see anything.

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 09:02:30 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Running hot

At 11:40 AM 23/06/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Genesis Sanchez writes: >> she's running hot in the city, on the hwy she's
>o.k'
>
>I know you said you had changed the radiator, but your symptoms still
>indicate not enough cooling capacity. Either you haven't enough air being
>pulled/pushed through the radiator or the radiator capacity is insufficient
>or the heat transfer is sufficient. Is your shroud correct??? I'm willing
>to bet that your new radiator is too small, but that's mere speculation.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.

Azie,

I know it could be a longshot, but I'd check four things:

1. If he changed the rad maybe he didn't let the engine heat up, and has
only half the system full? You know what I mean, install the rad, then
fill the rad, let the engine warm up to where the thermostat opens, then
top up the rad.

2. Maybe the impeller on the water pump is broken. I kinda doubt that cuz
of their design. But it could be checked (by just watching the coolant
circulate in the rad--before it gets too hot!

3. Maybe the thermostat is malfunctioning. Can be checked by doing 1
and/or 2 above.

4. Maybe there is a leaky headgasket, although in my experience these would
cause just as much boiling on the hwy as in the city.

My friend's 66 Tbird with 390 did that all the time, got real hot in town
but not too bad on the hwy, we figured out he had a leaky lower rad hose
which allowed the coolant level to drop to where the cooling capacity in
the city wasn't what it shud have been.


marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 12:09:46 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - pwr stering on '76 4X4

Michael Masse writes: >> but upon a closer look, it looks like
some sort of hydraulic ram. I was just curious what the purpose of this

It is a hydraulic ram and that is the way you get power assist on some
models. FOMOCO used that style on their earliest version pwr assist until
the '78 on 3/4 (F250) and heavier, but I thought my '76 F150 4X4 had the
integral type. Been too long so I can't be sure.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 11:23:30 -0500
From: "Don Yerhot"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Idle Problems

Hey Fomoco gurus! My 351w with a Motorcraft 2150 carb that used to run
ok will not idle, at least under about 1500 rpm's. If I try to back off
the idle speed screw, there's a very narrow rpm range where it run's
real rough, then a little more and it will kill. It runs great at
highway speeds. I don't think it's a vacuam leak, but I may be wrong.
Anyway, so far I've replaced the intake manifold, and made sure I got
everything real clean, so that should be OK. I also took out the vacuam
ports in the intake and replaced them with plugs. I've tried 2 different
carbs, using new gaskets, they both seem to act the same. This engine is
in a 65 F250 and it does not sit level, is higher in the front, so the
carb does not sit level either. Could this cause a problem? It's
probably about 5-7 degrees off plumb.
I'm running a Duraspark ignition, but being it runs good at higher R's,
I don't really suspect it either.
Thanks in advance

Minnesota Don
65 F250/351w/NP435





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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 09:39:55 -0700
From: Marko Maryniak
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Idle Problems

At 11:23 AM 23/06/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey Fomoco gurus! My 351w with a Motorcraft 2150 carb that used to run
>ok will not idle, at least under about 1500 rpm's. If I try to back off
>the idle speed screw, there's a very narrow rpm range where it run's
>real rough, then a little more and it will kill. It runs great at
>highway speeds. I don't think it's a vacuam leak, but I may be wrong.
>Anyway, so far I've replaced the intake manifold, and made sure I got
>everything real clean, so that should be OK. I also took out the vacuam
>ports in the intake and replaced them with plugs. I've tried 2 different
>carbs, using new gaskets, they both seem to act the same. This engine is
>in a 65 F250 and it does not sit level, is higher in the front, so the
>carb does not sit level either. Could this cause a problem? It's
>probably about 5-7 degrees off plumb.
>I'm running a Duraspark ignition, but being it runs good at higher R's,
>I don't really suspect it either.
>Thanks in advance
>
>Minnesota Don
>65 F250/351w/NP435
>
Hey, Don!

Just a thought:

My truck idled rough until a corroded battery terminal was corrected. It
seemed the low voltage at idle made the thing miss all over the place.

If it used to run okay, then I wonder what the problem is? You can check
for a coupla more things:

1. clogged fuel filter
2. air leaking into fuel line from somewhere

also, check the float level on your carb, but if it hasn't changed recently
I wouldn't suspect it.


marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 12:56:21 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 F-100 4X4 Draglink replacement

> From: ztalon ix.netcom.com
> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 05:04:59 -0700
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 F-100 4X4 Draglink replacement

> The replacement draglink listed by TRW and Moog, Part# DS-811,
> although correct in length, diameter and direction the studs face,
> does not come with the correct size ballstud for connection to the
> pitman arm. This draglink is listed as a replacemnt for 65-71 trucks

Take the pitman arm to the junk yard and compare the sector end to
some they have till you find a match. I suspect one from a 78 might
well fit but can't be sure.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 12:27:10 -0500
From: "Nils Gore"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - re: 410 Merc

>.....it feels like renigging (is that a racist word?,
seriously?)...........

It's actually "renege." Same roots as renegade, and negate. Means "to go
back on a promise."

Nils Gore

'73 F100, 302
"64 F100, (to be determined...)
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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:40:18 -0700
From: tom
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Edelbrock cam and Balinger

Bill Balinger,
I've been gone for a week or so and see by the posts that some
discussion was had on our #2106 cam timing question. I don't have a way
to do all of the fancy measuring that you guys were talkin' about, nor
am I sure that I would know how if I did. What did you decide to do with
your cam? leave it alone or what?
Thanks,
Tom
Wonderin' in Reno,NV

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 13:43:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rob Long
Subject: FTE 61-79 - history lesson

Does anybody know what the difference between the 78 & 79 F-150 4x4 are ??
Curious to know as I am about to embark on restoring one when ever I find one.

Rob


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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 13:47:27 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - F100 Rear springs

Can I put F350 or F250 springs on my '79 9" to get a little lift in the
back?

ThanX

- -----Original Message-----
From: Deacon
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, May 12, 1998 11:39 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - F100 Rear springs


>From: Steve & Rockette
>> A buddy at work asked (axed??) me today if I could find out if
>>he could put F350 rear springs on his F100, he wants to use
>>it to haul his camper, it does have a Dana 60 in it now, with a
>>cheesy helper spring. What do you guys think??
>
>If it's not raining here in Southern California (it never rains. Ha!)
>tomorrow. I'll go take some measurements on my F350 and compare them to
>my F100. From looking at them, I don't see why not.
>
>
>Deacon
>deconblu gte.net
>=============================
>Nuke the unborn baby whales.
>=============================
>Deacon's
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
>
>
>
>= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
>Send posts to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
>"unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the message body.
>=======================================================================

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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 13:49:46 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: 134a conversion?

Here are a couple of sites that deal with the R-12
to R-134a Conversion. I just installed a system
off a '71 onto my '68 and chose to stay with the
R-12 based on the information based on these
sites. The work is not complicated, just time
consuming. Hope this helps!

www.aircondition.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mypage.ihost.com/autoac/

-Ted
'68 F100 360 and soon "Air"
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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 14:05:50 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 76 f100 running hot in houston Tx

I just installed a unit from a '71 in to my '68. All the
parts are installed but have not charged the system
yet. I'm missing the idler pulley to adjust belt tension.
Anyways, the rest of the stuff is there and connected.
I'm running hot. I have a 360 with a very clean
radiator and cooled fine till the condensor went in.
The condensor fins are straight, but are more
densly packed than the radiator. I don't have a
fan shroud yet and am attributing the heat due
to that. I have a 5 blade factory fan to pull air.
I have not changed the thoermostat yet, but
like I said before everything worked fine till
the condensor was mounted. My new fan
shroud should be here this week along with
my idler pulley. When I get it installed and a
new thermostat installed, I'll let you know what
happens. If anyone else has anymore suggestions
I'd like to here them.

-Ted
'68 F100 360 soon with "Air"
_____________
>>> she's running hot in the city, on the hwy she's o.k'
>>> i've changed the following:
>>>1) added a/c... started to run "hot"
>>>2) changed out radiator with a new one "433"....still running "hot"
>>>3) changed out sending unit ...still running "hot"
>>>4) added elec. fan in front on radiator, to help no luck...
>>> i realy would like to know what you guys think......
>>>genesis
>>>houston tx '76 f-100 360 long ....

Have you changed the thermostat? If the old radiator was rusted up, the
water pump impeller is prolly not any better. Might try a new water pump,
or at least inspect the current one. You can hardly find it anymore, but
they used to sell a two part engine flush. Two part as in acid and
neutralizer. I can't tell you where to get some - I haven't seen it in a
while. It's powerfull stuff, I think Prestone used to make it.

Mike
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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 14:24:25 -0400
From: "Desanto, Phillip"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering- Wander

For- J. Elliotts' Power Steering pull, try either replacing your P/S box
with a good used unit or have it rebuilt. There is a control valve in the
steering box that has a " centering" spring on it. These springs fatigue
over time and fail. The spool valve won't stay " centered" now, and that can
cause your pull. It sends pressure to the side it THINKS is needing the
assist because the "non-centered" spool valve is calling for it. I haven't
done one in eons; but Ford used to carry the kits for the " Integral "
steering boxes. If not you can get a rebuilt; or a good used one. Hope this
helps. If that's not it then I guess I blew it. Phil
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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 13:51:24 -0500
From: "Michael R. Masse"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Running hot

Marko Maryniak wrote:
>
> At 11:40 AM 23/06/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >Genesis Sanchez writes: >> she's running hot in the city, on the hwy she's
> >o.k'
> >

Do you have a fan clutch? I had these symptoms a while back on a
different vehicle
and found out it was the fan clutch.

I'm having the opposite problem now. I can drive in bumper to bumper
stop and go city traffic
all day long in 90+ weather and the gauge never goes past 1/2 way, but
even when it's 60 or so out,
if I'm on the highway going above 55 mph the temp just starts creeping
up. I've already
replaced the thermostat with no change. I've been thinking
that either the coolant is just flowing too fast through the radiator,
or maybe something with
the centrifigal advance causing to much advance when at those speeds,
but I don't get any
pinging. Any ideas??
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 14:48:42 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Concrete blocks

Okay, I have a little spare time to show my ignorance. Why would you
put a concrete type substance in your block? Is this specifically for
pulling? I'm more curious than anything.

-Ted
_____________
>>there are several brands of block fill, some require minutes to take a=20
set,
>>some take hours. different people i understand have their own=20
prefference.
>>i didn't fill mine as it was a used block already filled - so i really
>>have no experence with pouring one
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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 12:09:44 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 62 B600 352?

OK. Here's a good one. I just came across a 1962 converted school bus,
B600. The For Sale sign says it has a 352 with "88K Original Miles." The
engine is NOT an FE block, looks like a Y Block to me. Is there a Y Block
352?

The sign says $2450. It looks like a decent camper conversion and I might
be interested, but why? Something about those 62 Ford Trucks keeps calling
me...

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:35:49 -0700
From: "DeKalb & Alexander PC"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 65-79 Headliner material

I have several Ford crewcab pickups, 65 through 79, and am looking for
original headliner material to make headliners and seatbacks. Need a
source for uncut material. I would be happy to share patterns for these
large headliners with any other crewcab addict, especially for some good
information.

Jacques,
danda empnet.com
Bend, OR
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 15:16:22 -0400
From: Chris Robinson
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bronco Overheating on Interstate

Hi Everyone,

I've got a delimma and I'm up against the wall for time. I was going to
drive my 79 Bronco to St. Louis from VA (700 miles) this week. Last
week, it started overheating on interstate. I don't have a real temp
gage, it's the factory gage. I normally run on the "N" in Normal. Then
last week, I was on interstate traveling about 70mph (3k rpm) and it
stayed on N for about 30 minutes and then all of a sudden it just
started to rise! Didn't go past the "L" in normaL. But I know it was
hot cause it was losing power and I heard some sparknock. I pulled off
the road and let her cool down a little. On the way home, the same
deal. Over the weekend, after replacing the thermostat, I put a metal
thermometer in the radiator cap inlet and watched coolant temperature as
it entered the radiator. After running on the highway for about 30
minutes, the temperature was reading a steady 190f.

I'm stumped. I put in a new 160f thermostat in it and verified that it
works. I double checked water pump and it's doing a good job, I flushed
the radiator and replaced the old coolant, I changed the radiator cap, I
replaced the fan clutch with a new one too. I noticed that this
afternoon, the temp gage hit between M & A. I stopped, opened the hood
and turned the fan by hand to see if the clutch had engaged. It
hadn't. Could the problem be that the 160f thermostat is too cold? I'm
stumped and I'm supposed to leave Thursday morning! And I'm towing
about 1 ton of logs back with me!

By the way, the radiator was very clean to begin with. The motor has
about 15k on it and the tranny has been rebuilt as well. I also changed
the tranny fluid and filter but both looked perfect. Changed motor oil
and filter and both were fine as well. I have verified timing, checked
for vacuum leaks and retuned the carb!!!! Heck, I even pulled the
wheels and checked to insure my brakes weren't grabbing!!!

I'm hurting in a bad way guys!! Help me out!!!! I would question the
temperature sending unit if it weren't for the loss of power and
knocking. After I did all the work, going up a steep hill, it slowed
down to 45 by the top and had to really get on the gas. Before, it
would have pulled the hill at 60 without downshifting or mashing the
gas. It was an obvious loss of power. This motor is a 429cj and c6.
R/V cam. I have the extra cooling radiator and fan, and shroud. The
new fan clutch is one for trucks with a/c, as mine does.

HELP!!!!

Chris

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 15:42:43 -0400
From: "Desanto, Phillip"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - VIN-Door Tags

Don, there's a guy that advertises in HEMMINGS that can make those door tags
for you. I can't remember his name right now, and I'm at work. I do think
he's in Conn. I'll post his name later if I can find it. Phil
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 13:21:23 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 76 f100 running hot in houston Tx

tfmf211 murphyfarms.com wrote:

> like I said before everything worked fine till
> the condensor was mounted.

You solved your own problem.

I think that at low speed there is not enough air flowing through the
condenser and radiator. The fan shroud should help things a bit.

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 17:55:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: hurdj VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Running hot

On Tue, 23 Jun 1998, Michael R. Masse wrote:
> or maybe something with
> the centrifigal advance causing to much advance when at those speeds,
> but I don't get any
> pinging. Any ideas??

Maybe you are not getting enough centrifugal advance at those
speeds. Through the timing light on it and blip the throttle to
see what the centrifugal is doing. Might also want to check the
vacuum advance, too.

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 17:34:05 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Concrete blocks

as the cylinder walls get to thin from overboring you need to give tham strength, and filling the water jackets does this.

overboring is good in that it gives more room for bigger valves, less valve shrouding, less friction/cid, more cid, among other things.

it is in all forms of "short racing" such as pulling, drag racing, etc.

sleddog

- ----------
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com[SMTP:tfmf211 murphyfarms.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 1998 10:48 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Concrete blocks

Okay, I have a little spare time to show my ignorance. Why would you
put a concrete type substance in your block? Is this specifically for
pulling? I'm more curious than anything.

-Ted
_____________
>>there are several brands of block fill, some require minutes to take a
set,
>>some take hours. different people i understand have their own
prefference.
>>i didn't fill mine as it was a used block already filled - so i really
>>have no experence with pouring one



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 18:30:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: JIM HURD
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Idle Problems

Don,

If you have power brakes, try plugging the vacuum line to the PB unit.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 19:11:29 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Bronco Overheating on Interstate

Thin the anitfreeze/water mixture out until it measures "safe for 10 above"
on the freezing scale.

Use redline water wetter (if you can find it, I can't!)

Put in a 180 thermostat, 160 is too cold to allow the coolant to pickup the
engine heat efficiantly.

Put in a mech temp guage in the thermostat housing so you can see the
coolant temp.

That fan clutch should kick in. For now, use a spacer and remove the
clutch, so the fan always spins.

Make sure the radiator isn't clogged with mud or other crap.

Good luck.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Robinson
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, June 23, 1998 3:37 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bronco Overheating on Interstate


>Hi Everyone,
>
>I've got a delimma and I'm up against the wall for time. I was going to
>drive my 79 Bronco to St. Louis from VA (700 miles) this week. Last
>week, it started overheating on interstate. I don't have a real temp
>gage, it's the factory gage. I normally run on the "N" in Normal. Then
>last week, I was on interstate traveling about 70mph (3k rpm) and it
>stayed on N for about 30 minutes and then all of a sudden it just
>started to rise! Didn't go past the "L" in normaL. But I know it was
>hot cause it was losing power and I heard some sparknock. I pulled off
>the road and let her cool down a little. On the way home, the same
>deal. Over the weekend, after replacing the thermostat, I put a metal
>thermometer in the radiator cap inlet and watched coolant temperature as
>it entered the radiator. After running on the highway for about 30
>minutes, the temperature was reading a steady 190f.
>
>I'm stumped. I put in a new 160f thermostat in it and verified that it
>works. I double checked water pump and it's doing a good job, I flushed
>the radiator and replaced the old coolant, I changed the radiator cap, I
>replaced the fan clutch with a new one too. I noticed that this
>afternoon, the temp gage hit between M & A. I stopped, opened the hood
>and turned the fan by hand to see if the clutch had engaged. It
>hadn't. Could the problem be that the 160f thermostat is too cold? I'm
>stumped and I'm supposed to leave Thursday morning! And I'm towing
>about 1 ton of logs back with me!
>
>By the way, the radiator was very clean to begin with. The motor has
>about 15k on it and the tranny has been rebuilt as well. I also changed
>the tranny fluid and filter but both looked perfect. Changed motor oil
>and filter and both were fine as well. I have verified timing, checked
>for vacuum leaks and retuned the carb!!!! Heck, I even pulled the
>wheels and checked to insure my brakes weren't grabbing!!!
>
>I'm hurting in a bad way guys!! Help me out!!!! I would question the
>temperature sending unit if it weren't for the loss of power and
>knocking. After I did all the work, going up a steep hill, it slowed
>down to 45 by the top and had to really get on the gas. Before, it
>would have pulled the hill at 60 without downshifting or mashing the
>gas. It was an obvious loss of power. This motor is a 429cj and c6.
>R/V cam. I have the extra cooling radiator and fan, and shroud. The
>new fan clutch is one for trucks with a/c, as mine does.
>
>HELP!!!!
>
>Chris
>
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 20:40:28 -0400
From: "."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AUX FUEL TANKS

reply to Dale & Donna Carmine Mon 22 Jun 98 dcarmine inetnebr.com
(Aux Fuel Tanks)

Dale - -
Sorry about your problem....I think I may have been responsible for
starting the whole thing.....


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