61-79-list-digest Tuesday, June 23 1998 Volume 02 : Number 351



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - 66 F-100 4X4 Draglink replacement
FTE 61-79 - Fwd: Re: 76 f100 running hot in houston Tx
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steve's headlight craze
Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 F-100 4X4 Draglink replacement
FTE 61-79 - Just what do I have here??
Re: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: Re: 76 f100 running hot in houston Tx
Re: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: Re: 76 f100 running hot in houston Tx
FTE 61-79 - leaky carb and plumbers tape
FTE 61-79 - 134a conversion?
FTE 61-79 - impact wrench
FTE 61-79 - 78' Bronco Tailgate
FTE 61-79 - Aux fuel tanks
Re: FTE 61-79 - 134a conversion? - Long
Re: FTE 61-79 - impact wrench
Re: FTE 61-79 - Need a camber spec for '71 F100
Re: FTE 61-79 - Just what do I have here??
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steve's headlight craze
Re: FTE 61-79 - re: 410 Merc
Re: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: Re: 76 f100 running hot in houston Tx
Re: FTE 61-79 - Need a camber spec for '71 F100
FTE 61-79 - Lift update
FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - Just what do I have here??
Re: FTE 61-79 - re: 410 Merc
FTE 61-79 - Governor sensetivity
FTE 61-79 - Loafing
Re: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Need a camber spec for '71 F100
FTE 61-79 - Weights
FTE 61-79 - 410
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78' Bronco Tailgate
FTE 61-79 - '76 4x4 Power Steering
FTE 61-79 - Merc-o-matic
RE: FTE 61-79 - engine weights...
RE: FTE 61-79 - impact wrench

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Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 05:04:59 -0700
From: ztalon ix.netcom.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 F-100 4X4 Draglink replacement

Friends , I'm lookimg for some information and help on replacing the
Draglink on my 1966 F-100 4X4. I'm looking for information from someone
who has run into the problem I describe below, and what their solution
was. I am interested in a possible replacement pitman arm and hat its
part number is,or to know if anyone has had the old pitman arm reamed
out for for use with the new replacement draglink.
The replacement draglink listed by TRW and Moog, Part# DS-811,
although
correct in length, diameter and direction the studs face, does not come
with the correct size ballstud for connection to the pitman arm. This
draglink is listed as a replacemnt for 65-71 trucks using the Dana 44
front axle.
The original draglink that came with the truck has a removable ballstud
on the end that attaches to the pitman arm. The draglink has a cylinder
at the pitman arm end and the ballstud is held inplace inside the
cylinder via a threaded plug. The plug screws into the end of the
cylinder and places the stud under tension via springs installed on
either side of the stud. I am told that this method of construction was
deleted because of safety problems

Thanks Rick
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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 17:13:28 PDT
From: "genesis sanchez"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: Re: 76 f100 running hot in houston Tx

>
>>i'm new to the list....
>>
>> she's running hot in the city, on the hwy she's o.k'
>>
>> i've changed the following:
>>
>>1) added a/c... started to run "hot"
>>
>>2) changed out radiator with a new one "433"....still running "hot"
>>
>>3) changed out sending unit ...still running "hot"
>>
>>4) added elec. fan in front on radiator, to help no luck...
>>
>> i realy would like to know what you guys think......
>>
>>genesis
>>houston tx '76 f-100 360 long ....
>>
>>______________________________________________________
>> >>
>


______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 19:35:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: Jesus Cardoso
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steve's headlight craze

Don,

I am not sure if anyone has answered your question, but the
schematic that I have shows a gree-black wire for the high beam indicator
light. Good luck.

Chuy
1963 F100 Flareside

p.s. I wanted to ask my last question again.....Does anyone know how I
can get a replacement ID tag for the door on my '63. Thanks for ya'lls
time.


On Sun, 21 Jun 1998, Don Grossman wrote:
> I came right off the high beam switch and was going to completely
> eliminate the old wires but if I do that then I loose my little red High
> beam indicator light in the dash. What I need is someone who has there
> dash apart or a schematic of a 63's wiring to find out what color wire
> it is that goes to the high beam indicator light.
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy
Graduate Research Assistant (Power System Automation Lab)
Dept. of Electrical Engineering, Texas A&M University
College Station, TX 77843-3128
h: 409-775-0737, w: 409-845-4623, fax: 409-845-6259
Personal Address: P.O. Box 2214, College Station, TX 77841-2214
e-mail: cardoso ee.tamu.edu, url: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ee.tamu.edu/~cardoso



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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 21:10:20 EDT
From: OldTrux aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 F-100 4X4 Draglink replacement

In a message dated 98-06-22 20:05:50 EDT, you write:


deleted because of safety problems >>
I was told the same thing and came up with a more conventional rod with a
"tie rod" end at both ends. I'll try to locate the receipt if you need a part
number, etc. E-mail me if you need more info.
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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 21:36:38 -0400
From: "John Miller"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Just what do I have here??

Hi gang, got a question for the 385 series gurus. I walked into the hangar
the other day and saw a small for sale poster on the cork board. It read, "
Ford 429 For Sale" hmmmmmm geeeees, I thought to myself I should check this
out. It said it was torn down, heads reworked, all parts hot-tanked etc.
etc. Hmmmmm. So today I talked to this guy, I was not too impressed, he
really didn't know what he had or what had been done and/or checked for
sure. Without knowing casting numbers etc I told him I would like to check
it out, so tonite I did and I ended up buying the whole mess. Now I don't
really know what I have, So here are the numbers in hopes some of you can
tell me what they are and a little about them. TIA

Item Casting #

Heads DOVE-C

Block D1VE-6015-A2

Rods DOOE A

Rod Caps C9AE-B / C210-B

Crank No markings found

Holley carb No Tag, only Holley #s



John Miller, FoMoCoNUT Gibralter.net
96 F-350 Reg Cab XLT, 4x4, 460 w/ A4OD, My Baby "Baloo"
75 F-100 Reg Cab Ranger, 2wd, 360, C6, Daily Driver "Lucy"
and "always" looking ! ! !
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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 20:45:14 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: Re: 76 f100 running hot in houston Tx

>>> she's running hot in the city, on the hwy she's o.k'
>>> i've changed the following:
>>>1) added a/c... started to run "hot"
>>>2) changed out radiator with a new one "433"....still running "hot"
>>>3) changed out sending unit ...still running "hot"
>>>4) added elec. fan in front on radiator, to help no luck...
>>> i realy would like to know what you guys think......
>>>genesis
>>>houston tx '76 f-100 360 long ....

Have you changed the thermostat? If the old radiator was rusted up, the
water pump impeller is prolly not any better. Might try a new water pump,
or at least inspect the current one. You can hardly find it anymore, but
they used to sell a two part engine flush. Two part as in acid and
neutralizer. I can't tell you where to get some - I haven't seen it in a
while. It's powerfull stuff, I think Prestone used to make it.

Mike
One more thing, make sure the fins in the AC condenser are straight. If
they are bent and/or smashed - that could restrict the airflow to the
radiator.

_____________________________________________

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Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 21:45:10 EDT
From: KSparks902 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: Re: 76 f100 running hot in houston Tx

Have you changed the thermostat?????
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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 21:51:58 EDT
From: RDbanesjr aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - leaky carb and plumbers tape

awhile back i asked if anyone had any suggestions about a leaky carb for my
240. I tried the things that ya'll had suggested and they help it some but i
still had a leak. silicon dissolves in gasoline and turns into a jell so that
wouldnt work. my dear wife wont let me put any more money into my into my
truck so a new carb was out of the question. out of the blue the answer to my
problem came to me. plumbers tape! i removed both of the gaskets and used the
screws from the carb to make sure both gaskets were lined up and wrapped the
entire thing in plumbers tape, put the carb back together, wiped it down, and
checked for leaks. no more leak! It'll hold till i can sweet talk the money
for a new carb out of my wife.

doug in louisiana
'67 swb
240 w/3spd
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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 20:57:16 -0500
From: kevin biedenstein
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 134a conversion?

> ok now i know this isn't truck related but none the less i can be lol

ok how can you convert a R12 cooling system to 134 without changing the whole
system?I have a 86 taurus and it has the r12 system i want 134a so what must i
do? please be as detailed as possible thanks

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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:15:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: JIM HURD
Subject: FTE 61-79 - impact wrench

From: SSYRV1::HURDJ "JIM HURD" 22-JUN-1998 22:13:29.77
To: IN%"fordnatics lists1.best.com"
CC: HURDJ
Subj: impact wrench


I am considering getting an electric impact wrench. Found the
Dewalt/Black&Decker model rated at 7.5 amps amd 240 ft/lbs and
a Porter Cable model rated at 8.5 amps and 265 ft/lbs.

Anyone have any comments, pro and con reguarding the electric
wrenches and their capacities? (One con is that the wrench is
11" long without any socket attached!)

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)
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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:27:57 -0400
From: "Gregory A. Bunton"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78' Bronco Tailgate

Hello all...I'm kinda new to the list....well anyway I'll get on with the
quesion/problem. Today my back window went down...but I can't put it up!!
All of a sudden It won't work.
The key switch has never worked, so I used the switch on the dashboard..but
now that doesn't work either. Any suggestions?? Any help would be
appreciated!!!

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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:08:13 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Aux fuel tanks

Well, all of this talk about aux fuel tanks tempted fate and my '79 f-150
quit drawing off the rear tank last week. Finally got a chance to look at
today, I had assumed that I would have to change the solenoid valve, but I
found the valve was OK. There is a short (12" long) wire between the main
wire harness and the solenoid valve, the connector where this jumper wire
meets the main harness was badly corroded and broke apart the first time I
pulled on it, it was badly corroded. A quick repair with the soldering iron
and some shrink tube got it back in working order......I don't know why ford
put a connector there anyhow!

I learned a few things through this experience...
1) When the solenoid valve is "ON" the truck draws off the rear tank.
2) Neat tip from the ford shop manual......when the solenoid is "ON" a
metal paper clip will stick to the bottom of the solenoid.

Just thought I'd share this experience in case someone has a similar
problem.

later,
dale c
'79 f-150, 351M



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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:27:14 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 134a conversion? - Long

At 08:57 PM 6/23/98 , you wrote:
>> ok now i know this isn't truck related but none the less i can be lol
>
>ok how can you convert a R12 cooling system to 134 without changing the whole
>system?I have a 86 taurus and it has the r12 system i want 134a so what
must i
>do? please be as detailed as possible thanks

If your current R12 system is working, don't worry about changing to R134a.
R134a cools good, but does not cool "as well" as R12. R134a molecules are
smaller than R12. The R134a will slowly leak through the hoses. To do it
right, you need new hoses made (R134a barrier hoses). It cost me $60 for
Carlisle Auto Air (San Antonio) to make all new hoses for my truck. You
also need a new compressor that was made after 1994 and a new
dryer/accumulator with compatable dessicant. You need to flush out the
condenser and evaporator and the new hoses . I used methanol, but plain
old rubbing alcohol will work - just make sure you have a good compressed
air source to blow every drop up crap out of the parts. Then seal the ends
up imediately until you are ready to connect everything together and seal
the system. I don't recommend the over the counter flushes as they don't
evaporate like alcohol does. You want to flush the old mineral oil and
crud out, but you don't want to end up trying to blow all the flush stuff
out as well - real hard and takes a long time.

The new compressor will most likely have the R12 mineral oil in it. It
will have instructions for preping the compressor for a R134a system. All
it requires is to drain the compressor completely (don't use any solvents -
just gravity) while turning the pump over several times. Pour in the
recommended amount of Ester oil (Polyol Ester) into the condensor,
compressor, and evaporator. I don't have any literature that covers the
Taurus, but any AC shop should have the specs in their books. Once
everything is ready, connect everything up. Install the dryer/accumulator
last - keep it sealed at all times until ready to install. Once everything
is sealed up, install the R134a adapter fittings on the old R12 service
ports.


Hook up the R134a manifold gauges then put it on a vacuum. Bring it down
to 28" of Hg for 5 minutes then close the valve and shut the vacuum pump
off (don't turn the vacuum pump off with the gauge valve still open -
lubricant oil from the vaccum pump could get sucked back into the AC system
or at least into the gauge hoses thus contaminating the hoses). If it
holds a vaccum for 10-15 minutes, the system is sealed (even if it drops to
5" of Hg, it is still good. The system is desgined to hold pressure not
vaccum. I've seen systems that hold 100% of the vacuum then leak big time
when the system is charged.) If the vacuum drops to zero or atmospheric
pressure, then you have a problem. If I come across a situation like that,
I usually use compressed air to pressurize the system then go around with a
soap and water mixture in a spray bottle and check all connections and
hoses. According to the EPA 609 regulations, your not supposed to use
compressed air. It introduces moisture into the system and takes longer to
boil off when the vaccum is applied. They say to use a dry gas like Co2 to
pressurize the system. I'd rather use compressed air and keep the vaccum
pump on it for an extra hour.

If it holds a vacuum, then turn the pump back on and open the valve. Keep
the pump on for a minimum of one hour. I'd go for two hours given the
nature of ester oil. Ester oil absorbs moisture big time. Once it
absorbes moisture, it will turn from a clear oil to a white oil. White is
bad, clear is good.

After the two hours, close the valve and remove the pump. You want to
charge the system to 80% of the R12 charge. But not to exceed 90% of the
original R12 charge. So if the system holds say 2 lbs of R12, you want to
put in 1.6 lbs of R134a. But not to exceed 1.8 lbs of R134a (90% of R12
charge).

Once the first can is started, fire the engine up and turn the AC on max
with the windows down or doors open (you don't want the compressor to
cycle). Some compressors don't like a liquid charge but rather a gas
charge. The instructions that came with the compressor will usually say if
it's ok to charge the system in liquid form - which is much faster. To
charge in liquid form, hold the can upside down, to charge is a gas form,
hold the can upright.

That's about it. Once you reach the 80% mark, check to see how well the
system cools the car down. If needed, you can go to 90% of the R12 charge,
but do not go above 90%. Depending on how the system is designed, you
should see 175-225 psi on the high side and depending on how hot the air
temperature is and how much air is passing through the condenser, you
should get anywhere from 10 to 60 psi on the low side. The lower the
pressure on the low side, the more efficient the system is operating. Try
pouring water over the condenser coils and watch the low side pressure to
see what I mean. R134a cools quite well, better than what some people say.
I have it in my '78 F150 with stock condenser and evaporator and with a
York compressor - and it cools down the truck well. (my truck wasn't
equiped with AC from the factory - a '79 F100 was nice enough to lend it's
AC) Too bad I didn't have a camera at the time - would have been a great
addition to my web site :)

Mike
EPA Certified MVAC Technician



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Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN PAGE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:33:35 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - impact wrench

At 09:15 PM 6/22/98 , you wrote:
>From: SSYRV1::HURDJ "JIM HURD" 22-JUN-1998 22:13:29.77
> I am considering getting an electric impact wrench. Found the
>Dewalt/Black&Decker model rated at 7.5 amps amd 240 ft/lbs and
>a Porter Cable model rated at 8.5 amps and 265 ft/lbs.
>
> Anyone have any comments, pro and con reguarding the electric
>wrenches and their capacities? (One con is that the wrench is
>11" long without any socket attached!)
>Jim in Central NY

Electrics are heavy due to the electric motor in them, which is one of
their main disadvantages. Another disadvantage is their low torque output.
Nothing beats a good quality pneumatic impact like Ingerson Rand. But if
your determined to get an electric, go for amps. The more amps it's rated
for the more you can get out of it. Also - check out the warranties - the
longer the warranty, the longer the tool will last (they usually break
right after the warranty expires :)

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN PAGE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 20:44:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve & Rockette
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Need a camber spec for '71 F100

At 11:15 PM 21/6/98 -0700, you wrote:
8

>
> Actually I was too lazy to try to remember the formulas (high school was SO
> long ago), or to go look it up in one of "those books over there", so I
plugged
> the suspension dimensions into turbCAD and let it do the dirty work for me...
>
> I measured the length of the I-beams as 37" from pivot to center of lower
> spring perch, and 48" from pivot to center of tire tread.
>

Did Turbocad calculate the final spring weight? Cutting coils off
a spring increases the springs rate of compression, I cant seem to
find the calculation when I need it though, I do have it written down
someplace, I've lost the place.......

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'63 F100 Longbox
'94 Taurus SHO - SWMBO's new car!!
and since most are listing all thier cars:
'72 Capri - Rockette's Toy, aka - SWMBO
'73 Capri - My Toy / Daily Driver
'73 MGB-GT Our Toy
'70 Torino GT My "New" Car


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Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 00:12:58 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Just what do I have here??

sounds like you may have a early 71 model engine.the heads are good heads for
making low end torque,if you're going to hop it up (cam,alum intake,headers
etc)
you will acomplish better results by opening up the exhaust ports.
alot of the rods used the same casting #,i have a set of cj rods with that
number and also a set of std 460 rods with the same #,are the rod bolts square
or shaped like a football,the good rods have the football bolts and the rod
casting is cut to
follow the shape of the head of the bolt,resulting in more material around the
bolt
the square head bolt rod is cut straight across making the rod thin in this
area
and this is where it will normaly break,but if you just putting around i
wouldn't worry about it.
to determine if it is indeed a 429 look on the side of the piston if they're
stock it should say 429 or 460,the 429 piston skirts are shaped like a figure
eight when looked at from the bottom.
the heads you have should be worth 100.00 or so,they are becoming more popular
since the cj and pi heads are so expensive.
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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 21:23:44 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steve's headlight craze

Jesus Cardoso wrote:

> Don,
>
> I am not sure if anyone has answered your question, but the
> schematic that I have shows a gree-black wire for the high beam indicator
> light. Good luck.
>
> Chuy
> 1963 F100 Flareside
>
> p.s. I wanted to ask my last question again.....Does anyone know how I
> can get a replacement ID tag for the door on my '63. Thanks for ya'lls
> time.
>

Thanks, That matches up with the wires that go to and out of the high beam
switch.

I have an interest in a new door tag for my 63 also. A previous owner did the
door swap and left me with the old tag. Why do people do that ):
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 21:41:05 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - re: 410 Merc

Thanks for your message at 03:28 PM 6/22/98 -0700, Marko Maryniak. Your
message was:
>
>nyah, nyah! Seriously, they are pretty nice, but the steering wheel and
>cluster still say "ford"!
>
>>Runs smoothly, has plenty of power and doesn't smoke (at least not from
>>what I've seen so far).
>
>Oh boy. You shud really enjoy it. Have you considered headers?
I dream about a lot of stuff. headers would be nice...For one thing
nothing sounds as good as Ford with a sweet exhaust system...
>
>>So the Merc-o-matic is basically scrap metal, right?
Dunno. Maybe not, I know nothing of Merc-o-matics. Is this like an FMX or
>something? or is it just the Mercury name for a c6?

I think it's the Mercury Cruise-o-matic, which for a long time I thought
was the C6. I don't think so, now..

Anybody? Nobody on FTE says much about the Cruise-o-matic...
>
I
>say maybe cause I doubt anyone would trade me for my truck.
My neighbor Levi will probably come up with a Pantera someday...he's
constantly surprising me (That's where I got my Unibody). He will trade
anything for anything...

>
>Yeesh. At least you did the right thing with it.
>
>>I believe I can get the whole car for $500. Actually the body is not bad,
>>with some rust (it came from somewhere near the salt water, like Paulsbo,
>>WA, something like that.)
>
>Probly rusted from sitting in the tall grass! The rain rusts cars more
>than the salt air around here. BTW where are you located?

Kennewick, WA. SE Washington State in the middle of the radiated desert...
>


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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 21:46:20 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: Re: 76 f100 running hot in houston Tx

Thanks for your message at 05:13 PM 6/22/98 PDT, genesis sanchez. Your
message was:
>
>
>>
>>>i'm new to the list....
>>>
>>> she's running hot in the city, on the hwy she's o.k'
>>>
The only things I didn't see that come to my mind are 1)Radiator cap,
2)Thermostat, 3) Water pump...in that order (least expensive to more
expensive).

Are you losing coolant?

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Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:55:34 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Need a camber spec for '71 F100

> Did Turbocad calculate the final spring weight? Cutting coils off
>a spring increases the springs rate of compression, I cant seem to
>find the calculation when I need it though, I do have it written down
>someplace, I've lost the place.......

No, I thought about spring rates a little but tried hard not to worry
about it. The loaded spring height with the truck at rest was about
12-7/16" inches. I removed about 1-1/8" to shorten them to 11-5/16"
It was just a touch more than one full coil I removed.
I'm hoping that small amount hasn't changed the spring rate excessively.

It turned out to be a quick and easy job. It took less than 2 hours this
evening to remove, cut, and replace both springs. I also rechecked the
toe-in when I was done, but it didn't seem to have changed any.

With the springs cut 1-1/8", the front of the truck (at the wheelwells)
is now about 1-3/8" lower and the camber seems to be a little less than
+1/2degree. That's pretty much what I expected, so I guess that's good.

I took it for a brief test drive, maybe 10 miles and didn't notice
anything unusual about the ride or handling yet, but won't really
know until I've had a chance to rack up a few miles.
The real test will be to see how my tires feel about all this...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

Opportunity may knock only once, but temptation
leans on the doorbell.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:24:24 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Lift update

I worked on the pu last night and welded the rear shock mount back
on. Nothing in the way, pulled the welder right up to my feet, threw
on my leather sleeve/chest protector and went at it.

I made a comment yesterday as to the limitations of working with the
lift due to leverages but when working near the center of the
vehicle, that is the further away from the bumpers you get the more
stable it gets, I was pulling and levering and reefing on the exhaust
system to get it away from the "new" shock and the lift was as stable
as a rock so don't let my comments of yesterday scare you off :-)
The more I work with it the more confident I become. I'm just so
excited about it all I can't keep my mouth shut so I have to say
something, premature or not :-)

The red Pick up is back on the road with king pins (all four
bushings) taking grease finally, rear axle seal fixed, shocks on all
four corners even if they are at full extension and it steers like I
expect now and still runs pretty well for a beat up 460 :-)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:21:03 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Question

>Hello. I am new to the world of Ford trucks, so glad I found the postings
>here. I have a '69 F-100 short-bed with automatic, power steering, and
>either a 360 or 390, that is as yet indeterminate. (Engine tag gone, much

(snip)

> I cannot reason out why a power steering unit should drive the wheels
>harder in either direction than the other.
>
I think the spool valve in your ps gear is bad. The spool valve decides
which side to apply the pump pressure to in order to assist steering. You
would need to have the ps gear rebuilt.

You can only externally distinguish a 360 from a 390 by measuring the
stroke with a wire thru a spark plug hole.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 06:37:00 -0700
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Just what do I have here??

In any case get the weights on all of the parts so that Stu and (et.al.) can
compile that list of on how much a engine weighs stock and modified.

John
66 F100 240-6 w/rebuilt 3core radiator.
82 LTD 302-AOD
94 Ranger 4.0L (I hate Liters)

- -----Original Message-----
From: John Miller [SMTP:FoMoCoNUT gibralter.net]
Sent: Monday, June 22, 1998 6:37 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Cc: pre61-list ford-trucks.com; perf-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Just what do I have here??



Item Casting #

Heads DOVE-C

Block D1VE-6015-A2

Rods DOOE A

Rod Caps C9AE-B / C210-B

Crank No markings found

Holley carb No Tag, only Holley #s

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 09:58:27 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - re: 410 Merc

> Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 15:02:04 -0700
> From: Dennis Pearson
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - re: 410 Merc

> The guy should give it to me, since he's my father-in-law.

Be carefull there! I gave my 92 bird to the guy who was my
daughter's fiance but they broke up about 5 minutes after I gave it
to him.................now I feel sorry for him cuz he doesn't have a
good job (pay wise) and it feels like renigging (is that a racist
word?, seriously?) so he still drive it every day. Got about 120k on
it now but still runs like new :-)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 09:57:50 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Governor sensetivity

Gary writes: >>Good point Bill, the governor on the C-6 is VERY sensitive
to dirt. I won't go into the details of why I know this :-(

It isn't just the C-6 that has a governor sensitivity to dirt/grit. All
I've ever worked on are. MOPARS may be the worst, but all are very
sensitive. Cleanliness can't be over emphasized in any hydraulic
operation, and especially Automatic transmissions.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:02:23 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Loafing

Gary writes: >>Just thought I'd share my happynes
with Y'all :-) At this rate I'm going to run out of work to do on my
vehicles before I retire and won't have anything to do :-(

I got enough projects to last both of us until we get too old to do
anything but sit on the front porch and watch the world go by, so if you
get the "hankering" to come south, drop by and help me out.
I'm just 3 miles off I-65 right on the Tennessee/Alabama state line.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:04:32 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Question

> From: "J Elliott"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Question
> Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 14:38:50 -0500

> original or not.) The question: The truck pulls to the right, but
> checks out ok on alignment. The previous owner was told it was a
> steering gear getting ready to go. This does not make sense to me.

If it has integral power steering then he's right because there are
spring loaded valves in there that keep it centered just like in the
drag link version. A weak or broken spring or leaking valve will do
this but not the gears themselves typically.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:09:08 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Need a camber spec for '71 F100

> From: sdelanty sonic.net
> Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 13:00:12 -0700
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Need a camber spec for '71 F100

> The specs I've been getting from people are like -1/2 to +2-1/2d
> which seems like a HUGE range to me. After playing with it on

Steve, keep in mind that the "main" reason camber is used at all is
to lessen the steering effort. If you have power steering, less is
better for tire wear with no penalties in steering effort. In
articulated suspensions with wish bones etc. it plays a different
role to maintain tire patch contact with the road in turns but on
solid axles it's mainly for steering effort.


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:09:38 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Weights

Sleddog writes: >>anyway, it will be a 521 cube motor with concreted
block.

We'd appreciate if you weighed that thing before you put the concrete in
it!!!!!!!!! I have one also, and I'm going to weigh it and post it
(standard bore),

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:14:10 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 410

Someone writes and I forgot who God forgive me: >>Is this engine as
>strong and reliable as the 390? This is a 390 with a longer stroke,
>correct?

YES!
and
YES.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:17:57 EDT
From: SuperMagot aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78' Bronco Tailgate

In a message dated 98-06-22 22:30:42 EDT, you write:


quesion/problem. Today my back window went down...but I can't put it up!!
All of a sudden It won't work. >>

I have the same year Bronco, and the same problem. The motor was froze up.
Unfortunately for me, I took it out and could not find a replacement, every
replacement sold in town is different than what came out of the tailgate.

You might want to find a electrical motor shop and see if you can get it
rebuilt.
I am SOL, because my core is already gone....:(

P.S. Once the motor is out, the window slides up and down real easy by
hand...:)

- - Mike
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 09:23:53 -0500
From: "Michael R. Masse"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '76 4x4 Power Steering

I was checking out a 76 4x4 the other day and I noticed that it had
the funky hydraulic steering box with a LOT of lines coming in and out
of it. Then I also noticed that a couple of those lines go to what
looks like a steering stabilizer, but upon a closer look, it looks like
some sort of hydraulic ram. I was just curious what the purpose of this
was.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:29:27 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Merc-o-matic

Dennis P writes: >>So the Merc o matic is basically scrap metal, right?

Actually the Cruise o matic(Merc o Matic) is the forerunner to the famous
C-6. Lots of commonality, but the C-6 is a better transmission. If the
Cruise o matic is in working order and a front seal/rear seal and filter
change is all it needs, I would use it until it gave up completely and then
look around for a C-6 FE specific.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:08:12 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - engine weights...

i don't know what it really is, but it is marketed specifically for engine
blocks. don't know if regular concrete/sacrete would work. after it is
dry, the top layer is smooth, not rouch like most concretes. but, i know
it is REAL HEAVY!! a bare 460 block is a back breaker, and when filled, is
heavier than i ever expected when i went to pick it up.

there are several brands of block fill, some require minutes to take a set,
some take hours. different people i understand have their own prefference.
i didn't fill mine as it was a used block already filled - so i really
have no experence with pouring one.

sleddog

- ----------
From: sdelanty sonic.net[SMTP:sdelanty sonic.net]
Sent: Monday, June 22, 1998 6:45 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - engine weights...

>anyway, it will be a 521 cube motor with concreted block. i'll see what i

Is the stuff that goes in them really concrete? Is it some kind of special
stuff You buy for blocks or is it like, uh, just a bag of ready-mix?....


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