61-79-list-digest Thursday, June 18 1998 Volume 02 : Number 345



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - intake ID, etc.
Re: FTE 61-79 - dana full floater
FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Fuel gauge
Re: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt
FTE 61-79 - Re: '64 F100 ( I think).
Re: FTE 61-79 - Timing Troubles??
FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE 61-79-removing decals
Re: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Decals
Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 44 usage?
Re: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt
FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE 61-79-removing decals-AL tailgate?
Re: FTE 61-79 - dana full floater
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Decals
Re: FTE 61-79 - dana full floater
FTE 61-79 - RE: Want to add A/C (kinda long)
RE: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE 61-79-removing decals-AL tailgate?
FTE 61-79 - FE Cams
Re: FTE 61-79 - intake ID, etc.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Fuel gauge
Re: FTE 61-79 - More 2150 carb talk
FTE 61-79 - 410 balance
Re: FTE 61-79 - 410 balance
Re: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt
Re: FTE 61-79 - More 2150 carb talk
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE 61-79-removing decals
FTE 61-79 - Full Floater bearings
FTE 61-79 - AUXILLARY FUEL TANKS & SWITCHES
Re: FTE 61-79 - AUXILLARY FUEL TANKS & SWITCHES
FTE 61-79 - AUXILLARY FUEL TANKS & SWITCHES
Re: FTE 61-79 - AUXILLARY FUEL TANKS & SWITCHES
FTE 61-79 - Re:engine weight
Re: FTE 61-79 - Want to add A/C
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE 61-79-removing decals
Re: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE 61-79-removing decals-AL tailgate?
Re: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 07:42:28 -0600
From: dcbeatty
Subject: FTE 61-79 - intake ID, etc.

Hey all. I just picked up a Ford 4v intake for $45. I was wondering if
someone could assist me in identifying the vehicle it came on originally.

C4S E 9425A

The "S" tells me that it came off of a Thunderbird. Is this correct? It
also has the cool oil fill spout on it.

I'm also looking at getting an Edelbrock #1405 carb with manual choke. Is
anybody out there running one of these that could give me an opinion of it?

Thanks very much for the assistance,

Drew
dcbeatty rmi.net

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 09:50:43 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - dana full floater

> From: STHIBODE spf.fairchildsemi.com
> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 17:36:30 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - dana full floater

> When servicing brakes or anything that requires drum/hub removal on
> a full floater is it necessary to repack the wheel bearings with
> grease upon installation? Is the already 90W covered bearings
> enough lubrication for reassembly?

If they are the type which are lubed by the diff lube, yes as long as
you haven't cleaned them of lube. Some floaters actually use sealed
greased bearings so you have to make that distinction.

Never put dry bearings into any assembly and run them with out lube
assuming the system will eventually lube them. They must never be
run dry even for one turn but only a thin film of lube is really
necessary to protect them untill the diff can splash some on them in
use so packing isn't necessary and if you use the wrong grease it can
actually be detrimental.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 09:58:30 -0400
From: Joe DeLaurentis
Subject: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt

I need some help with the removal of a exhaust manifold bolt on a 390
head..It snapped flush with the head(of course it couldnt leave me
something to get a hold of with vise grips :( Anybody?
- --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 07:07:02 PDT
From: "Jay Branscome"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Fuel gauge

Pat,
Yep. What happened. One of my panel light blew out. I pulled the bulb
out and replaced it. I must have bumped a wire or something cause my
dash light all started flickering like there was a short. Well since I'm
so tall instead of trying get under the dash I decided to pull the whole
guage cluster out. I did and started liking for loose wires/connecters.
Disconnected and reconnected everything back there put it back together
and fired it up. Lights worked fine but then I smelled something funny.
Pulled the cluster again and found that one of the resisters for the
guage cluster had shorted out. I removed it, hooked the wire to the
remaining one and have had no problem since. Replaced both of them. When
both old ones were on there a full tank of gas would read at just over
3/4 and would run out at the left edge on the empty side. (Yes I ran
with a gas can in the bed for three days waiting to see how far the
guage would read before it died) After the single one burned out it read
at the full mark and has even after I replaced them. Hope this clears it
up.

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 07:22:16 PDT
From: "Jay Branscome"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt

Sounds like its time for the ez out stud remover.

>Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 09:58:30 -0400
>From: Joe DeLaurentis
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>
>I need some help with the removal of a exhaust manifold bolt on a 390
>head..It snapped flush with the head(of course it couldnt leave me
>something to get a hold of with vise grips :( Anybody?
>--
>Joe
>Aka. Fordguy
>1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
>1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman
>== FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 09:20:51 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: '64 F100 ( I think).

Folllow this link and you'll find a picture of a 292 to compare to yours.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/


>I pulled the engine out today. It was all taken apart when I bought it. I'm
>not sure if it's a 292 or not. I power-washed the crud off of it but still
>haven't found conclusive labelling on the block that clearly states "292".
>My knowledge of these motors is insufficient at this point to know for
>sure. It does have the exhaust cross-over pipe which the 292 had; my sense
>is that it probably is a 292.
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net

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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 10:20:05 -0400
From: dgerow coal.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Timing Troubles??

Don & Teresa Neighbors wrote:

> Let me guess: Your problems didn't really start until it
> warmed up?
>
> Don Neighbors
> '54 F250 Named Grover
>

You got it! I think I solved my problem...I was trying to start it a the store and
it cranked for about 10-15 seconds then the starter smoked right up and I melted my
battery terminals...which was rather amusing at the time. So I believe I have a bad
starter, although it's only a year old. So I have come to the understanding that my
solinoid is too close to perhaps the header pipes and therefore is being
corrupted...and that means a heat shield? Let me know if my allegations are a good
start...Thanks all!

Dan
- --
- ---------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
WSHL General Manager
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://wwww.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ---------------------------------


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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 10:53:38 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE 61-79-removing decals

well, i got off the ones i wanted to on the aluminum "tailgate" and the
weight box, and i used the hairdryer on one on the side of the bed - much
to my surprise, i took a full 4"x8" strip of paint off too - right down to
bare metal! WARNING to anyone trying this, be very careful!

now i don't know what to do, as i have more to remove but fear losing more
paint. it looks pretty dam !##y now, and i need to fix the paint. and
that really bad as i don't do bodywork/paint/etc. i do engines and
suspension.

later
sleddog

- ----------
From: Jay Branscome[SMTP:jbman100 hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 1998 9:44 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Re: Re: FTE 61-79-removing decals

Everything comes full circle.
My question is now is if he got tyhe stickers off?





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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 10:51:48 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt

> Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 09:58:30 -0400
> From: Joe DeLaurentis
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt

> I need some help with the removal of a exhaust manifold bolt on a
> 390 head..It snapped flush with the head(of course it couldnt leave
> me something to get a hold of with vise grips :( Anybody? -- Joe

Others may argue with me on this but since it broke off flush I'd
venture to guess that it's rusted solid in the hole so an ezyout
won't get it nor will a prick punch. The right way to do this is
take the manifold off the engine and lay it on a bench where you can
get at it with a drill and carefully step drill the bolt out, leaving
the threads which you then pick out with a slim punch and light
hammer, very carefully. When it is close to being cleaned out run a
tap in there but back it out often so the loose threads don't jam it
and break the tap.

If you want to try the ezyout first you still should center the hole
in the bolt very carefully so you can finish drilling it out if
needed and for god's sake, don't break the ezyout or there will be no
more drilling :-(

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!
9000#, in ground vehicle lift, Woooo Hooo!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 09:07:04 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Decals

I can't remember what the heck it is called but 3M makes a decal remover
that you can remove stick on pinstriping and lettering and such. Ask a
body shop what they use.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 09:22:54 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Dana 44 usage?

Vogt Family wrote:

> On Mon, 15 Jun 1998, Joe DeLaurentis wrote:
>
> > When did the dana 44 become standard usage in the F-100 4x4's???
> > I know with the early broncos the 44 wasnt used till late 1971...
> > Were the pickups the same????also are dana 30's radius arms the same
> > as dana 44's?????
>
> I have a Dana 44, closed knuckle in my '61 F-100. The casting is not
> the same externally as a '71 Bronco I looked at, though. The "44" is
> cast on the lower right web looking at it from the front cover like a
> Chevy. It does not have the big I-beam style web running back to the
> pinion shaft lwhere you would find the "44" on a Bronco or Scout.
>
> Need any more info? I'll get my lazy butt out of the chair and go
> look...
>
> Birken T. Vogt - KE6DLT
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My old 63 dana 44 didn't have the extra ribbing to the pinion that some
of the later ones did. It did look identical to the on in the rear of a
52 M38A1(jeep) and all the Dana 44 covers are the same bolt pattern. My
78 Dana 44 looks like it came with drink holders or something ;)
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 11:22:22 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt


If you want to try the ezyout first you still should center the hole
in the bolt very carefully so you can finish drilling it out if
needed and for god's sake, don't break the ezyout or there will be no
more drilling :-(


I have broken about 75% of the EZ outs that I have tried to use, so make
sure you get the right size, right size drill bit, and drill in straight. They
do break without warning...

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 11:23:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE 61-79-removing decals-AL tailgate?


well, i got off the ones i wanted to on the aluminum "tailgate" and the
weight box,


what is an aluminum "tailgate"?


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 09:41:50 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - dana full floater

STHIBODE spf.fairchildsemi.com wrote:

> Sorry for the year/list mismatch but this question applies to full floaters
> in general.
>
> Question on a 1985 Dana 61 full floating rear axle on an 85 f250...
>
> When servicing brakes or anything that requires drum/hub removal on a full
> floater is it necessary to repack the wheel bearings with grease upon
> installation? Is the already 90W covered bearings enough lubrication for
> reassembly?
>
> thanks in advance,
> Steve
> == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

I might be wrong on this one but isn't the 61 the semi-floater light duty
they used for a while?
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 13:29:31 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Decals

At 09:07 AM 6/17/98 -0800, you wrote:
>
>
>I can't remember what the heck it is called but 3M makes a decal remover
>that you can remove stick on pinstriping and lettering and such. Ask a
>body shop what they use.
>--
>Don Grossman
>duckdon pacific.net
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon
>

Citrus based Goo-Gone works great. It specifically
mentions decal removal as one of the applications.

Ken Payne


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 13:55:06 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - dana full floater

Don Grossman wrote:
>
> STHIBODE spf.fairchildsemi.com wrote:
>
> > Sorry for the year/list mismatch but this question applies to full floaters
> > in general.
> >
> > Question on a 1985 Dana 61 full floating rear axle on an 85 f250...
> >
> > When servicing brakes or anything that requires drum/hub removal on a full
> > floater is it necessary to repack the wheel bearings with grease upon
> > installation? Is the already 90W covered bearings enough lubrication for
> > reassembly?
> >
> > thanks in advance,
> > Steve
> > == FTE: Unsubscribe and posting info www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> I might be wrong on this one but isn't the 61 the semi-floater light duty
> they used for a while?
> --

I have seen a dana 61 full floater from an 81, F-350. It was
supposedly used from 80 on up to allow a different gear brake, so I'm
told. It is pretty much the same as dana 60, but is 5/8 inch offset for
pinion gear location.

OX

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 13:29:23 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Want to add A/C (kinda long)

Joe,

I'm just finishing up on my A/C install. Stu (dear ole' guy) gave me his.
I already had a compressor and mounting bracket. I used the new
compressor. The only thing I have left to do is to get the idler pulley
replaced, which I found at AutoKrafters, and to evacuate and charge
the system. A few things to keep in mind, be very careful with the old
hoses that traverse the firewall. I had to replace both of these at a cost
of $223. OOOWWWW!! Install the rubber boot that runs from the kick
panel to the hang on unit after the hang on unit is in place. (I managed to
catch a screw on the boot and ripped a hole in it). I would replace both
the blower motor and heater core while the underdash unit was out. I
resealed the whole unit with RTV while putting it back together. I wanted
to make sure the bottom of the unit under the evaporator was tight so that
all the water running off it ran out the drain tube instead of the floor. =20=
I=20
also
painted all the metal parts inside the unit with a high solids chassis=20
paint.
Although the unit came out of an Arizona truck the inside with the years
of condensation inside rusted out a bunch of metal. A fan shroud will
be a must as well. It will help keep the engine cool. I have a '68 and
my firewall, radiator support all had dimples that was located exactly
where the holes for the support and pass through holes needed to be.
So there wasn't a lot of guess work. The only place that I had a problem
was the location of the holes for the heater hose and drain tube. The
heater holes are lower and closer to the center to the truck than the
original standard heater core and drain tube I had to eye ball it. If you
can get a complete system, go for it. Make sure you get all the grommets
for the firewall and radiator support. I have the section from the ford=20
shop
manual if you need it. I'll be happy to fax a copy to you. So far my ride=
=20
has
been down for about three weeks while making the conversion but I'm taking
my time and trying to do it right. If you want to slap it in without the=20
detailing, it
can be done in a weekend. Hope this helps!

-Ted
'68 F100 360 and soon (next week) AIR!
_______________
Hey Group,
with the purchase of this 67 390(which has an A/c compressor) I thoght
of adding A/c to the truck..How hard is this)especially finding the
parts) and I wold like to talk to anyone who has done this swap...
- --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 14:20:29 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt

a good quality one is worth the price, the cheap bolt extracters break too
easy and don't grab nearly as well. the ones that have spiral "teeth" are
better than the ones with straight teeh IMHO.

sleddog

- ----------
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu[SMTP:bkirking bcm.tmc.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 1998 7:22 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com;
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt


If you want to try the ezyout first you still should center the hole
in the bolt very carefully so you can finish drilling it out if
needed and for god's sake, don't break the ezyout or there will be no
more drilling :-(


I have broken about 75% of the EZ outs that I have tried to use, so make
sure you get the right size, right size drill bit, and drill in straight.
They
do break without warning...

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 14:31:30 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE 61-79-removing decals-AL tailgate?

since the bed cosists of only the sides, and a plastic bed liner supported
by a very light frame, a tailgate is made from aluminum sheet and bolted in
place. i will eventually get pictures of that angle on the web site.
tailgates are heavy you know!

the bed liner is also chopped up - for example there is a hole for the
tranny cooler and fan. i am considering removing the plastic bed liner
also.

sleddog

- ----------
From: bkirking bcm.tmc.edu[SMTP:bkirking bcm.tmc.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 1998 7:23 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com;
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE 61-79-removing decals-AL tailgate?


well, i got off the ones i wanted to on the aluminum "tailgate" and the
weight box,


what is an aluminum "tailgate"?


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 15:45:19 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Cams

William Ballinger writes: >> I'm also going with a stock 390GT
cam. No better street cam for the FE, even in a truck!

I personally think that is the 2nd best stock Hydraulic cam for the FE.. I
think the best stock hydraulic FE cam is one of the 428CJ cams from '68,
'69, vintage. I've owned both and ran both in the same vehicles with no
other changes, and the CJ made much better times in the 1/4 mile and there
was no noticeable difference in economy on the street. Now if you want to
go to solids, the '67 vintage 427 is the best, with the '61/'62 HP versions
of 390/406 2nd.

All a matter of opinion, but this is mine.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 12:46:47 -0700
From: marko
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - intake ID, etc.

At 07:42 AM 6/17/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Hey all. I just picked up a Ford 4v intake for $45. I was wondering if
>someone could assist me in identifying the vehicle it came on originally.
>
>C4S E 9425A
>
>The "S" tells me that it came off of a Thunderbird. Is this correct? It
>also has the cool oil fill spout on it.
>
>I'm also looking at getting an Edelbrock #1405 carb with manual choke. Is
>anybody out there running one of these that could give me an opinion of it?
>
>Thanks very much for the assistance,
>
>Drew
>dcbeatty rmi.net

Drew,

C4SE means, literally, 1964 Tbird Engine
the 9425 is the casting id no. for an intake manifold
A means no change level, so that manifold is the same as how they designed
it, no changes.

Heard something awhile ago though... :( I heard T bird intakes aren't
interchangeable, as the T bird engine sits flat and a truck engine for
example sits on a backwards rake. This means the angle of the carb flange
is basically flat for the tbird manifold, and raked for the other applications.

I could be wrong, but that's what I read somewhere....

marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 12:49:41 -0700
From: marko
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Fuel gauge

Replaced both of them. When
>both old ones were on there a full tank of gas would read at just over
>3/4 and would run out at the left edge on the empty side. (Yes I ran
>with a gas can in the bed for three days waiting to see how far the
>guage would read before it died) After the single one burned out it read
>at the full mark and has even after I replaced them. Hope this clears it
>up.

Where does it show empty now??


marko in vancouver
marko dsm.ca

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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 13:54:05 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - More 2150 carb talk

>From: hurdj VAX.CS.HSCSYR.EDU
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - More 2150 carb talk
>
> The two carbs may have different style boosters.
> Trucks tend to have slightly larger boosters to improve
> signal strength when lugging down. The huskier booster
> may reduce the flow.

Yo Jim:

Aha! I hadn't thought of the boosters being different sizes and affecting
the air flow.

W/ any luck, I'll get at least half a day in the garage on Dad's Day (that
is what I want to do!) and swap out the carbs. Then I'll disassemble that
truck carb and compare it w/ what I've seen in the Mustang carb.

> Thanks for the run down on the two carbs. (The truck
> carb probably uses the much larger jets, as the
> needles fill up part of the hole.)

I've compared the jets side by side, and the Mustang carb's are bigger.
I'm guessing it was jetted richer for performance? What are the needles
you referred to?

Since you have a Motorcraft 2150 also, Jim, maybe you can answer another
question for me. Is there any kind of coating or plating on the booster
venturi assembly, or is that gray color just oxidized metal? I tried
working a little on the Mustang boosters to clean up the molding flash
(pretty nasty!) and I noticed where I filed away metal it's shiny silver,
not gray colored. I'm wanting to do more to improve the flow, but I don't
want to screw them up.

Oh, Marko, how did you do the "concours coating" on your 4100? I'm
thinking of trying to clean some rust off the choke plate, but there's a
zinc(?) goldish looking plating on it and I don't want to leave bare metal.

Anybody know how to restore the teflon coating on parts like the throttle
shaft and choke plate shaft? The actuator rod for the metering rods
appears to have a teflon coating that's mostly worn off the brass part.

Thanks.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 16:05:02 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 410 balance

Marko writes: >>Even the 410 front pulley was zero balanced, only the

I think you are wrong here Marko.. The 410/428 are both externally
balanced according to my memory and it seems they both carry the same
p/n's listed for certain applications of cranks, vibration damper's, and
auto flywheels.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 13:28:17 -0700
From: marko
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 410 balance

At 04:05 PM 6/17/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Marko writes: >>Even the 410 front pulley was zero balanced, only the
>
>I think you are wrong here Marko.. The 410/428 are both externally
>balanced according to my memory and it seems they both carry the same
>p/n's listed for certain applications of cranks, vibration damper's, and
>auto flywheels.
>
Azie:

My own 410 front pulley was, oddly, zero balanced. It's interchangeable
with my 360, and I was floored by that, I asked my machine shop the same
question you asked me.

Seems the piston weight is lower in a 410 than a 428 so you only have to do
the flywheel/flexplate, not the pulley.

I'd be interested to know different prior to firing mine up, if you can come
up with something!



marko

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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 16:33:07 EDT
From: Firrer aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt

yep on them e-outs havent have much luck with them on the smaller sizes but if
u have access to
to a welder lay a washer over the broken stud then a 7/16 nut then weld the
nut to the stud
with some 6010-6011 and let it cool a bit and try to get it out it may take
3-4 tries but it usually works the heat from the welding helps also
if that dont work take it to a machine shop with a edm machine
good luck mike
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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 13:30:52 -0700
From: marko
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - More 2150 carb talk

>Oh, Marko, how did you do the "concours coating" on your 4100? I'm
>thinking of trying to clean some rust off the choke plate, but there's a
>zinc(?) goldish looking plating on it and I don't want to leave bare metal.
>

Dave: use Eastwood Carb-Renu. check www.eastwoodco.com

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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 14:46:04 -0700
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE 61-79-removing decals

At 10:53 AM 6/17/98 -0400, Sleddog wrote:
>now i don't know what to do, as i have more to remove but fear losing more
>paint. it looks pretty dam !##y now, and i need to fix the paint. and
>that really bad as i don't do bodywork/paint/etc. i do engines and
>suspension.

I use a solvent called Citrus Solv that's pretty darn good at removing them. Won't choke you either, as it's made from (surprise!) citrus oil. Doesn't harm paint.

Got mine from a wholesale natural foods place, but they make one (Orange Solv?) that's sold at Graybar (the telephone companies use it to remove the gel from underground cables during splicing.)

Goo Gone is similar but also has petroleum distillate in it.



Good luck...




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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 15:15:05 -0700
From: "J.Scott Harkema"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Full Floater bearings

Both the 65 & 76 factory manual state that
the bearings should be packed before installation.
I would think you should use a grease compatable with
the gear lube you are using. A couple of related items,
1. The lockwasher between the two hub nuts should be
replaced if it shows signs of wear. I reused one
that I shouldn't have,the locking tab broke off,
outer nut tightened it self until the wheel locked
up. Almost wrecked,ruined my hub and bearings and
I got a $450 tow bill as added bonus.
2. Replaced cover with chrome after market item.After
installation noticed fill plug is lower than stock.
Now I have to pull r/r wheel up on 4x4 to fill/check
lube.Aftermarket parts never.ever fit but I guess
making them work is part of the fun
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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 19:24:49 -0400
From: "."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AUXILLARY FUEL TANKS & SWITCHES

Several weeks ago I posted an inquiry about "aux" tanks and how they were
switched, etc. and unless I missed the only day anyone responded to it,
there was no chat on them.
Since I refuse to believe none of you gentlemen have "aux" tanks on their
trucks, I will ask the questions again.
1. Up to 1977, you could have 3 tanks, i.e. 1) in-cab, 2) mid-frame, and 3)
aft-frame mounts. (During 1978, Ford eliminated the cab tank) QUESTION:
What kind of switch controls 3 tanks and 3 sending units? What does it
say on it, etc.
2. Part B of question above: If the switch only says it controls 2 tanks
i.e. main & aft, how do you tell how much fuel is in the cab tank by
itself, or the mid tank by itself ? ? ?
Any info would be extremely useful and appreciated.
Thanks,
Jerry

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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 17:14:36 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AUXILLARY FUEL TANKS & SWITCHES

. wrote:

> Several weeks ago I posted an inquiry about "aux" tanks and how they were
> switched, etc. and unless I missed the only day anyone responded to it,
> there was no chat on them.
> Since I refuse to believe none of you gentlemen have "aux" tanks on their
> trucks, I will ask the questions again.
> 1. Up to 1977, you could have 3 tanks, i.e. 1) in-cab, 2) mid-frame, and 3)
> aft-frame mounts. (During 1978, Ford eliminated the cab tank) QUESTION:
> What kind of switch controls 3 tanks and 3 sending units? What does it
> say on it, etc.
> 2. Part B of question above: If the switch only says it controls 2 tanks
> i.e. main & aft, how do you tell how much fuel is in the cab tank by
> itself, or the mid tank by itself ? ? ?
> Any info would be extremely useful and appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Jerry
>
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On a friends 75 the incab tank only drained into the front tank. He would fill it up
at the station and when the front tank was low just turn a little valve and the tank
would drain into the front tank.

That all got to say bout that
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon

63 F-100 4x4 with 3/4 ton running gear and most of the trimmings.


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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 20:09:08 -0400
From: "."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AUXILLARY FUEL TANKS & SWITCHES

Several weeks ago I posted an inquiry about "aux" tanks and how they were
switched, etc. and unless I missed the only day anyone responded to it,
there was no chat on them.
Since I refuse to believe none of you gentlemen have "aux" tanks on their
trucks, I will ask the questions again.
1. Up to 1977, you could have 3 tanks, i.e. 1) in-cab, 2) mid-frame, and 3)
aft-frame mounts. (During 1978, Ford eliminated the cab tank) QUESTION:
What kind of switch controls 3 tanks and 3 sending units? What does it
say on it, etc.
2. Part B of question above: If the switch only says it controls 2 tanks
i.e. main & aft, how do you tell how much fuel is in the cab tank by
itself, or the mid tank by itself ? ? ?
Any info would be extremely useful and appreciated.
Thanks,
Jerry

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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 17:39:16 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AUXILLARY FUEL TANKS & SWITCHES

> Several weeks ago I posted an inquiry about "aux" tanks and how they were
>switched, etc. and unless I missed the only day anyone responded to it,
>there was no chat on them.
> Since I refuse to believe none of you gentlemen have "aux" tanks on their
>trucks, I will ask the questions again.
>1. Up to 1977, you could have 3 tanks, i.e. 1) in-cab, 2) mid-frame, and 3)
>aft-frame mounts. (During 1978, Ford eliminated the cab tank) QUESTION:
> What kind of switch controls 3 tanks and 3 sending units? What does it
>say on it, etc.
>2. Part B of question above: If the switch only says it controls 2 tanks
>i.e. main & aft, how do you tell how much fuel is in the cab tank by
>itself, or the mid tank by itself ? ? ?
>Any info would be extremely useful and appreciated.

Well, I've only got one tank, and I don't know how the stock multi-tank
setup works, but I assume that each tank has an electric fuel solenoid valve
and not a manual valve like some of the older Broncos use?

I'd just get a 2-pole, 3 position rotary switch and wire it up.
The switch will have 8 terminals on it, one goes to +12v and 3 go to the
fuel solenoids. One goes to the fuel gauge and 3 go to the gauge senders.
A schematic is worth a thousand words. If You need a schematic on how to
wire one, let me know and I'll draw something up for You.
I dunno anything about how Ford did it, but I know how *I* would do it...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

Opportunity may knock only once, but temptation
leans on the doorbell.

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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 23:10:08 EDT
From: NUTCH11 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:engine weight

according to car craft march 98 issue ford engine weights:
these weights include everything ready to run except bellhousing:
260-302w= 460lbs
boss302= 500lbs
351w = 525lbs
351c&boss 550lbs
351/400m =575lbs
352-428 FE=625lbs
429-460 =720lbs

these weights were with cast iron parts no aluminum.

seems like the boat anchor is the 335 series.

john pearl
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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 23:24:12 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Want to add A/C

i'm not sure where you're at but i have two trucks 69 f100's for sale and both
of them has air,one of them has a real good body but its missing the engine.it
also has power steering,c6 trans,good grille,tailgate, 650.00 for this one.the
other one is complete,rebuilt 390 4v,automatic,ps,ac good body 1250.00,the
650.00 truck would be a good investment for someone wanting complete ac set up
and still have a truck to use or part out,both of these trucks have been
sitting for a couple of years.
they are longwheel base
jeff grant
griffin,ga.
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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 23:40:32 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: FTE 61-79-removing decals

put a big blue ford oval over that spot.

jeff grant
fellow puller
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Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 23:38:13 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - How to remove broken exhaust bolt

good luck:i worked in an automotive machine shop for several years and actualy
got tired of seeing 390's with broke off exhaust bolts.its practicaly
impossible to do it on the vehicle,it normaly requires drilling the center of
the bolt,heat the area around
the bolt(glowing red) and cool down the bolt only with a cooling fluid while....


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