61-79-list-digest Thursday, June 11 1998 Volume 02 : Number 338



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering box adjusting
Re: FTE 61-79 - "THOSE DARN % #$*+ KINGPINS"
FTE 61-79 - Fwd: '65 Ford truck POWER STEERING
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear End
FTE 61-79 - Re: Transmission cleanup
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear End
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End
Re: FTE 61-79 - "THOSE DARN % #$*+ KINGPINS"
Re: FTE 61-79 - Press
Re: FTE 61-79 - Emergency Brake Cables to replace
FTE 61-79 - MIG welder 4 sale (Sonoma County, CA)
FTE 61-79 - RE:Press
FTE 61-79 - Update on the California Get Together.
[none]
FTE 61-79 - Heat stoves
RE: FTE 61-79 - Heat stoves
FTE 61-79 - Re Guages (ammeter)
Re: FTE 61-79 - Heat stoves
FTE 61-79 - Edlebrock Cam and Timing
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Transmission installed
FTE 61-79 - Bucket Seats
FTE 61-79 - Gages
FTE 61-79 - Re: "THOSE DARN % #$*+ KINGPINS"
RE: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: '65 Ford truck POWER STEERING
Re: FTE 61-79 - Vin #
FTE 61-79 - Re: Kingpin Press Homemade
FTE 61-79 - Re: cams
Re: FTE 61-79 - Heat stoves

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Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 08:28:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering box adjusting

> Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 01:29:24 -0500
> From: "Michael R. Masse"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering box adjusting

> I recently had to remove my pitman arm, and in order to fit the
> puller I had to really loosen up the adjustment screw. Now that
> everything is back together I can't get the screw to turn more then
> 90 degrees either way. Do I have to remove the drag link to remove
> any sort of load from the box in order to turn the adjustment bolt?

Sounds like you've jammed the sector into the rack, not a good thing.
If you put some torque on the adjuster screw and tap the bottom of
the sector shaft (not too hard and straight up, not sideways) it will
probably loosen up so you can adjust it. The teeth on the rack and
sector are tapered so if you jammed the adjuster down to facilitate
the puller it can wedge in there pretty tight. You should have
loosened the box mount bolts instead, that's what I do on mine. I
know it's a PITA but better than adjusting the box every time you
want to work on the linkage :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 09:00:49 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - "THOSE DARN % #$*+ KINGPINS"

> From: "."
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - "THOSE DARN % #$*+ KINGPINS"
> Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 00:57:33 -0400

> If the dam* things are in there so tight, what the hell are we
> bothering to replace them for ? ? What kind of driveability
> problems do loose pins cause and if they are loose, there must be
> excessive clearances, right ? ?? ...maybe not over the entire
> length of the pin, but surely over enough of it to compensate for
> the smaller portion that may be rusted tight in the spindle

Jerry, the pins are held in the "I" beam with a tapered pin in a
notch in the king pin and some king pins are tapered or stepped as
well as I recall. All movement is in the top and bottom portions of
the pin and the bushings are in the yoke. If you put anti-seize on
the pin when you install it the next time it will come out easily.
Seems like the first ones I did had a tapered or shouldered pin so it
could only come out one way but I'm a bit "rusty :-)" now on that. I
know the 78 pins are straight and will come out either way once the
retainer pin is out.

When you get them out make sure who ever reams the bushings takes his
time and gets a good fit or you will have problems with wandering
almost as bad as if they were seized (which is what usually causes
the wandering, not looseness). I let auto parts do my last ones and
the high school kid they had do it wasn't very experienced and got
one too big.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 06:21:34 PDT
From: "Jay Branscome"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: '65 Ford truck POWER STEERING

>Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 18:44:52 -0500
>From: shane
>To: jbman100 hotmail.com
>Subject: '65 Ford truck POWER STEERING
>
>Hey Jay,
>Seen your post on the FTE. This is a real easy swap. Find you a
>'73-'79 ford truck with P/S and P/B and go to town. The power steering
>is a boltin. You'll need to get the power steering box, pitman arm and
>steering column. This is a boltin. Only drawback is, you must use an
>automatic. The stock steering column is longer and can't be used with
>the new steering box. I have a '66 SWB with a 460 that I installed P/S
>and P/B on. You'll need to do a little trimming on the sheild that
>installs on top of the column near the P/S box and you'll need to get
>some spacers for under the dash to shim the new column. You can use
the
>wiring harness that's in your truck now. It fits, but you can't use
all
>of the screws to hold it down. Now, to the power brakes. Same as the
>P/S, boltin. Get the bracket and the power booster and all of the
>rods. I got mine from a '75 F250 and it bolted right in. I decided
not
>to use the old unit, so I went to Auto Zone and got an exchange for
>80.00 bucks(booster and master cylinder). I thought it was a preety
good
>deal. You'll need to get the prop. valve and the brake lines( as much
>as you can get). I spliced mine in and the work fine. Hope this
>helps. Gotta run, Shane
>
>1966 Custom Cab
>
>460 auto SWB
>
>

I had this sent to me when I asked about converting my 65-F100. Went to
a salvage yard and checked out the parts and taked to a person who
converted his. This message is right on. Soon as I get the money I'll be
getting the parts. Good Luck

Jay B. 1965 F-100 Custom Cab Long Bed

JBMAN100 Hotmail.com

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/nashville/4134
______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 08:48:56 -0500
From: "Michael R. Masse"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear End

Bear wrote:

> Also is there a way to tell the difference
> between posi and limited slip with out driving the vehicle?

Yep,
If it's a Ford, it's limited slip. If it's GM, its posi. They
both do the same thing, just named different. Just like harmonic
balancer and vibration dampener.
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Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 09:36:40 -0400
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Transmission cleanup

Johh,
Mike's suggestion that your 2nd gear pop being
due to shifter mal-alignment is what was wrong with my
three speed. I had a three speed that
did the same thing, and it was b/c the shifter linkage
wasn't properly aligned (which eventually led to even bigger
problems, all before I ever bought the truck). You can check
part of your shifter alignment by crawling under the truck.
Each of the shifter arms (on the side of the tranny)
should be at 12 o'clock when
they are in neutral. When they are at 12 o'clock (in
neutral) putting the tranny into 1st or 2nd will move
the arm to either 10ish o'clock, or 2ish o'clock. The
problem w/ my tranny was that it was at 10:30 when it was
in neutral (and thus the shifter linkage didn't push the
shift arm (on the side of the tranny) forward in a straight
line and thus didn't fully engage that gear).

Even if the shifter arms are at 12 o'clock in neutral, the
linkage may be hitting a stop, which is keeping the linkage
from pushing (or pulling) the shifter arm completely into
gear. You can disconnect the shifter rods and push/pull the
shifter arms yourself (to see if you can move them more than
the shifter linkage can). My Toploader would pop out of 1st
gear (at first) b/c the linkage wouldn't push the tranny all
the way into 1st. A simple adjustment and it's been great
ever since.

If I haven't been clear explaining this (which I suspect I
haven't...no coffee yet this morning), drop me a private email
and I'll try to explain it better. It could save you pulling
the tranny and rebuilding it.
Good luck
Ohio Bill


1968 Torino GT (429 4V 4speed)
1968 F100 (360 4V 4speed)
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 10:06:07 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rear End

> From: "Bear"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear End
> Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 07:14:54 -0500

> With the rear end off the ground is there an way to identify the
> gears without having a code. I was think of something such as
> turning the drive shaft and counting turns of the tire or visa
> versa. Does this work with "limited slip" and "posi" ? Also is
> there a way to tell the difference between posi and limited slip
> with out driving the vehicle? Thanks, Shane

Jack up only one side, mark the drive shaft and use some point on the
housing to mark the zero point or stick a wire pointer on it if you
want to be real accurate, mark the tire and also a zero point for it
with the drive shaft at it's zero also.

Turn the tire two revolutions slowly so you can count the number of
turns of the drive shaft. The number of turns is the ratio.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 10:08:02 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rear End

spin driveshaft counting how many turns it makes for one tire revolution
and this=gear ratio.

it works with any rear as long as both tires are turning the same amount.
if you are having problems getting both tires to turn same, hold one
still and then count driveshaft turns for TWO tire turns and then use that
number. i think this will work too.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Bear[SMTP:bear269 sparc.isl.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 1998 8:14 AM
To: FTE
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear End

With the rear end off the ground is there an way to identify the gears
without having a code. I was think of something such as turning the drive
shaft and counting turns of the tire or visa versa. Does this work with
"limited slip" and "posi" ? Also is there a way to tell the difference
between posi and limited slip with out driving the vehicle?
Thanks,
Shane

E-mail : bear269 sparc.isl.net
Please view my home page at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.isl.net/~bear269/home

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 07:35:30 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - "THOSE DARN % #$*+ KINGPINS"

>Under cooler, more controlled conditions in my garage workshop at home
later that evening, It never entered my mind that pin was going to stay
stuck....... Ask me how the 10lb worked sometime.

Say Jerry, how did the 10lb work? (-:

> Now here's what I was thinking. (Only because I really never had any
experience in replacing kingpins before I found this list),
>If the dam* things are in there so tight, what the hell are we
>bothering to replace them for ? ? What kind of driveability
>problems do loose pins cause and if they are loose, there must be excessive
clearances, right ? ?? ...maybe not over the entire
>length of the pin, but surely over enough of it to compensate for
>the smaller portion that may be rusted tight in the spindle.

Usually the pin is worn bad on the end thirds of the pin where it goes
thru the bushings in the steering knuckle. That's where it gets loose
and sloppy. It's only tight (and rusted in) where it goes thru the I-beam.
You really do need to get it out and replace the pin and bushings.
You'll find that replacing the parts makes a big difference in how the
truck behaves on the road...

The pins can either get really loose and let the wheel wander around,
which makes the truck hard to steer, or they can get jammed up and real
tight, which makes the front end unable to return to center by itself
when You let go of the wheel. Either way makes the truck an unhappy thing
to drive. Replacing the pins on mine not only made the truck easier to
steer out on the road, but it made it much easier to crank the steering
wheel with the truck stopped. It was almost like getting power steering
on mine since it was very difficult to turn the wheel before new pins.

Even if You have to build the press, or take the I-beam to the shop
to have them removed, I think You'll find new pins/bushings to be well
worth the effort...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

Opportunity may knock only once, but temptation
leans on the doorbell.

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Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 11:01:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Press

> From: "John Miller"
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Press
> Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 18:02:54 -0400

> types of jobs. All you do is pick the adapters, hang it on, and turn
> the screw as needed, in tough situations let the impact do the work.
> Pick new adapters and reverse the process where required. I'm
> wondering what it would cost to build something like this ?? any
> machinists out there?

A simple buck and support just occured to me for doing drive shafts
and axles. I was trying to come up with an adjustable one but really
how many size variations are there on full sized trucks? 1-1/16 and
1-3/16 are the two I use on all my applications and the yoke width is
probably very standard as well so maybe only two versions would be
necessary but this would be just for UJoints. If I get bored I'll
fab up a drawing and see what I can do with it. Something many of us
4 wheelers have discovered the hard way is that axle yokes bend very
easily and the cups stick very hard so yoke support is very important
and a means for correcting any bend would be nice too. I have a
couple I have to fix before I can finish spot facing them for "C"
clips.

King pins OTOH have a whole nuther set of requirments and require a
lot more strength in the press to get out. I can see doing it all
with one unit but seems like the king pin press would be unwieldly
for ujoints?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 11:26:48 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Emergency Brake Cables to replace

> Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 04:42:29 -0400
> From: "Marc A. Stine"
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Emergency Brake Cables to replace

> I'm going to replace my emergency brake rear cables probably
> tomorrow, and I have never done them before and don't really know
> what to expect, any helpful hints on how to go about making the
> change?

Seems like the clip that holds it into the backing plate was the
hardest part of the job. Access forces you to skin some knucles
getting it out.

Coat the adjuster with anti-seize when you put it back together
(assuming you can get it apart in the first place :-() Wire brush
the threads and oil them up and work the nut all the way up and down
till it's loose and then wipe it off and coat it with anti-seize.

Pay attention to routing so it doesn't rub on the leaf springs or
shocks. If you can get the rubber hose to slide on the cable, move
it where it will do the most good. I couldn't get mine to move and
it really needed to move a few inches for best protecion of the
cable.

I've considered putting rubber hose on the whole thing but not sure
if that would cause more rust than it prevents??

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 08:36:49 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - MIG welder 4 sale (Sonoma County, CA)

Hey Gang,

I've got a MIG welder for sale. Nice little 120V one, complete with
full CO2 bottle and a fresh 2 lb spool of .023" wire and spool adapter
for 12 lb spools. Got a nice little cart with wheels to roll it around on.
I bought it with a blown diode and fixed it up, added a cooling fan to
help keep the diode heatsink cool, and built the rollaround cart for it.
I used it for a couple jobs and it's a nice stout little unit that works
real well. It's a "MigMate", made in Britain but uses the same gun tips
and liners as a century, so consumable parts are readily available.
It's all ready to go, just needs a welding hood and some gloves and
someone to pull the trigger...
$250 dollars takes it... such a deal!

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

Opportunity may knock only once, but temptation
leans on the doorbell.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 12:03:04 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE:Press

>Actually, all you need is a C clamp with the "foot" drilled out, modified
>so that the cup pushes thru (so a slightly bigger hole than the hole in the
>yoke). Or, you could weld a big 12-point socket or a short (3/4" or so
>long) piece of 1-1/4" pipe onto the inside of the "foot" of the c clamp.
>
>Then just put the clamp over the yoke and turn till the cup pushes out.
>Piece of pie, as far as I can see. You mightn't get enough pressure to
>push out kingpin sleeves, but maybe you might, never done one of those
>before....

Thanks Marko, I'm going to make one just like that, for my "possibles" box.
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 11:40:17 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Update on the California Get Together.

Hello List Members.

I am sending this update on the CA Get together to all of the lists.

First I would like to thank Pat Brown for taking the time to research, and
send me a list of possible activities.

This list was forwarded to Deacon, (from the 61-79 List, who lives in CA).
Deacon spent a lot of time researching Pat's list, and searching for other
activities we could attend. Unfortunately Deacon did not find much for
Truck related events. Most of them were for cars. So Deacon sent me the
following message.

Deacon Message to Keith

Hi Keith.
Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. I checked out the places
Pat suggested and though some of the ones that weren't just Mustang related
looked like fun, none of them were truck related. I tried to look at it
objectively because I didn't want to reject an idea because it wasn't in
So. Ca. and I don't think I did. If there was a Harley show, sure you and I
would have a blast but would anyone else. So no matter what the event some
of the people would come just to meet with other members. If the event had
nothing to do for a family no ones wife or kids would want to come with
them. I looked for something with it in mind, if there wasn't something
that was Ford truck or American truck related that was big enough to get
and keep people interested it wouldn't be worth doing. I tried to find a
west coast Ford Nat's and there isn't anything to compare with PF in
California. I was at my wits end and ready to throw in the towel. It had
been 2 days and knew I had
to send you something or you might think I'd lost interest in helping. Last
night I gave in, there was nothing happening I thought would be the right
environment for our west coast get together. Not wanting to give in, this
morning I sat here in front of my computer ready to send you one of two
messages "I've got it" or "I give up" so here it is.
I've got it! :) FTE's Weekend at Disneyland! There's an airport with
shuttle service, hotels, dining, things to keep a family happy and plenty
of local attractions to get us in trouble. We can plan it so it doesn't
conflict with PF or other holidays. We can and make our own day. It can be
"FTE's annual weekend at Disneyland" so people can make plans.

End of Deacon's Message to Keith

I know some of you will say, "What does going to Disneyland have to do with
Ford Trucks." For one, I am sure some of the list members will be able to
drive to Disneyland. This would give us a close-up look at some of their
modifications to their Trucks. After attending the show in Pigeon Forge, I
am confident that the simple fact of meeting some of these people face to
face, would also include a lot of Truck talk. This would also give us
time to socialize a little with each other and discuss other topics as
well, one being, what else could we do to make the list more enjoyable and
useful for everyone. What it takes to brew beer at home, (one of the list
members, that I talk to off list, has a very nice setup for brewing beer at
home). I am sure there are other list members that converse off list about
different things.

Now, as far as when to have this get together. I am going to pick a
weekend. October 3rd and 4th. Now I know some of you may not be able to
make it this weekend. But that is going to happen no matter what weekend
this event is planned for. This is similar to what Pat Ford does with the
Pigeon Forge show, He picks a weekend, and everybody plans around it.

More details about the get together will follow later.

Now if anyone has any complaints or comments, please send them to me off
list. My Email Address is herbie netvalue.net

I would also like to thank Deacon and Ken for their help with this.

Thanks!

Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 14:41:45 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: [none]

>> Edelbrock Performer Plus #2106
>>
>> Centerlines Lobe separation : 100d
>> Intake centerline: 105d
>
>These numbers seem very strange to me for a truck cam?? At .05 lift
>the ATDC may be right since at zero it's undoubtedly BTDC some small
>amount (intake) but 100 degree lobe separation is too small for a
>torque cam isn't it??

The lobe seperation is 110d. What struck me is the IVO and the EVC they are
radically different from any other FE cam I've seen.

Edelbrock:
IVO (BTDC)-8d (or 8d ATDC) IVC (ABDC)22d

EVO (BBDC)37d EVC (ATDC)-13d (or 13 BTDC)

Duration:
272d in. 282 ex.at .006 lift
Lobe Seperation:
110d
Intake Canterline:
105d
Lift:
.460int.
.480 ex.

What I consider the perfect torque cam:

IVO (BTDC) 24d IVC (ABDC) 60d

EVO (BBDC) 60d EVC (ATDC) 24d

Duration:
264d in. and ex. at .006 lift
Lobe Seperation:
108d
Intake Centerline:
108d
Lift:
.480 in both in. and ex.

I ran a simulation on Desktop Dyno and found the Edelbrock cam to be an odd
creature compared to the other cam. It made 25 lbs.ft more torque between
2000-3000. It peaked at 4500 at 317hp, then strangely enough it took a nosedive.
The other cam peaked at 5000 at 342! The Edelbrock cam at 5000 made 261!

All that duration and nearly identical lift and more low end but less mid
range power. Hmmm. That's backwards from what I expected. I have to wonder
about how much power is going out the tailpipe, with all of that exhaust
duration.




Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net

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Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 15:56:37 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Heat stoves

Silly summer question. Does anyone know where to get a clamp-on heat stove
for headers to send hot air to the air cleaner tube? I can make one, but if
there's a neat looking kit I'd like to use it. Even on a warm day after an
hour it wants to run on the mid-step fast idle for a minute, esp on rainy days.
I bet a little heat would do the trick.
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net

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Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 14:32:27 -0700
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Heat stoves

Last time I went browsing thru my local Kragen/Autozone , NAPA, and Carquest
stores; they carried clamp on heat stoves and if I remember right they were
in the HELP parts line.
John


Silly summer question. Does anyone know where to get a clamp-on heat stove
for headers to send hot air to the air cleaner tube? I can make one, but if
there's a neat looking kit I'd like to use it.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 12:24:29 -0700
From: Tom&Carol Hogan
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re Guages (ammeter)

Previous discussion:
- ----------------------------

>> If it can't be replaced, can it be adjusted. The gage works because
you
>can
>> see it deflect slightly to the discharge side when you first crank
the
>> engine, but doesn't move after that. As it is now, I wouldn't know if
I
>> threw a belt or not.

>Well awhile back we had several threads on this very subject, seems the

>shunt which enables the ammeter to work is not of the correct
>ressistance..and in this factory configuration the gauge doesn't really

>work as an ammeter should. Did this fix ever get posted to the website
as
>a tech article ??? someone? If not could whoever out there who has the
fix
>please post it again and please, please prepare it for posting on the
>website???

John is right, there was a lengthy discussion last year about how the
stock ammeter for these trucks is "factory dysfunctional".
I believe that Tom Hogan started it by actually fixing his gauge so it
worked right and telling us about. I spewed some theory and math into
the mix and it was all discussed for a while. The archives should be
full
of it if You can find them.
================================
I write:

I don't believe the article has been posted. I will put on my "to-do"
list. I think the thread started around July orAugust of last year.
Basically the problem is that the stock shunt is too low of a
resistance. The fix was to cut it and splice in additional resistance
to divert more current to the stock ammeter. The trick is that you only
need about 0.2 ohms resistance. I used a lenght of resistor wire,
someone else used a much longer piece of 12 AWG house wire. The upshot
is that they don't make resistors this small resistance value and the
current capability has to be high (60 Amps or greater). You don't want
to simply cut the shunt as that would divert all of the current through
the ammeter and as I remember it hits full deflection at 1 amp. How do
you like you ammeters -- deep fried or lightly toasted! ;0)
The shunt is located in the wiring harness under the hood. One end
connects to the started solenoid, one end to the alternator, and the
third end to the voltage regulator. Unwrap the harness and in there you
will find a big honking black wire connected between two other wires.
It is spliced into these wires and looks like it is in parallel with
them. That is the shunt. It has to be cut and the new resistance
spliced in.
I'm going off of memory here so check the archives for the details.

Good luck and I'll try to submit an article soon.

Tom H.


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 15:06:38 PDT
From: "John Pajak"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Heat stoves

Ballinger wrote:
Silly summer question. Does anyone know where to get a clamp-on heat
stove for headers to send hot air to the air cleaner tube? I can make
one, but if there's a neat looking kit I'd like to use it. Even on a
warm day after an hour it wants to run on the mid-step fast idle for a
minute, esp on rainy days. I bet a little heat would do the trick.

>>A little heat would do the trick but not from the air cleaner housing.
:) What source are you using to heat up the choke unit itself? On a
Ford with headers you can run 1/4" copper tubing from the choke unit and
wrap it around one of the header tubes 2 or 3 times, and leave the end
open. This approximates the function of the heat pipe hole in the stock
exhaust manifold.

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 17:49:51 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Edlebrock Cam and Timing

>Speaking of cams and timing. I have to do a timing chain on my stock 78,
>351M.
> Is there any benefit to
>adjusting cam timing with a stock cam? The chain I'm getting allows 4
>deg either way.

Hi OX,
I'm not sure how much the cam was retarded on the 351M, if anyone knows it
would probably be Dave R.
I'm very interested to hear how much difference you see with this change.
I was planning on waiting to do my timing set until I could afford a cam,
but if it produces big results it might be worth doing now. make sure you
report back with results.
Anyone else out there done this with a stock cam??

later,
dale c

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 19:13:38 EDT
From: GMPACHECO aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Transmission installed

Well its done, I have the 4 Speed toploader in the truck, runs great. My
mileage should improve..

Here is what I had to do:
B-4 it was a 3 speed on the column
pull tranny, and install 4 speed. buy new shifter and linkage (one that it
came with was too sloppy and keep jamming in gear)
cut hole in floor and carpet, there was an oopps there I managed to cut about
2 inches too much to the right, so I'll be screwing down a fill piece of sheet
metal.. damn..
I also order a new carpet kit and will install it this weekend..then the new
boot will be put on..

That should do it for awhile.. Oh wait I was thinking about sway bars..


Mike in Seattle
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 22:28:12 -0400
From: "Don & Teresa Neighbors"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Bucket Seats

One of you was asking for suggestions on bucket seats. i saw a '56 a few
years back with a set of Dodge Omni/Plymouth Horizon buckets in it. They
looked good, and since I drove a Horizon for 4 years, I can attest to the
comfort!

Don Neighbors
'54 F250 Named Grover
(Normally found on the Pre '61 List)
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 21:55:44 -0500
From: "Wade Keller"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gages

Thanks for enlightening me some on my ammeter problem.

If you live in the Longview / Tyler ,Texas area, you may me the guy with all
of the instrument panels! I scrounge the salvage yards here almost weekly.
People live and breathe trucks here and when a new one hits the yard, people
pounce on them like buzzards (me included). If you don't get there fast,
there will just be an empty shell left in a matter of days.

I guess we all live by the same creed here. "You can never have too many
spare parts"

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 22:55:23 -0500
From: Jim Craig
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: "THOSE DARN % #$*+ KINGPINS"

As a mechanic buddy of mine put it when I was doing the same thing..."They
come out real easy--unless they need to be replaced" Sure, I spent MANY
long hours beating the stupid things to death, but finally gave up and paid
the machinist about $20 to press them out for me. I figured it was best to
have him get mad at the beams, and did he ever! I had to get on his case
just to get him to try. "But no one ever brings ENTIRE beams into the
shop!" Well, I'm not everybody and that was the last time I did business
with the fool. (I didn't like his previous work on my heads, either) The
whole process was worth $20 to me. Now I've got a superb machinist looking
after my 460. He might not be the cheapest or the quickest, but his work is
consistent within less than .001"


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 23:15:13 -0400
From: "Ken Schneider"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Fwd: '65 Ford truck POWER STEERING

Are there any difference in column lenghts between the ford gear box and the
bendix gear box?

> I had this sent to me when I asked about converting my 65-F100. Went to
> a salvage yard and checked out the parts and taked to a person who
> converted his. This message is right on. Soon as I get the money I'll be
> getting the parts. Good Luck
>
> Jay B. 1965 F-100 Custom Cab Long Bed
>
> JBMAN100 Hotmail.com
>
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/nashville/4134
______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 23:52:14 EDT
From: GMPACHECO aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Vin #

What was the address for the Vin decoder I fold this plate behind my seat when
I removed it tonight, anyway this is what it reads


STUBNITZ-VINC-71
C7TB8164700C 931

Thanks in advance..

Mike in Seattle
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 22:58:46 -0500
From: "Dennis K. Austin"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Kingpin Press Homemade

Okay guys we discussed this back around Christmas. I have a homemade press which I
will try to take pictures of this weekend, scan them, and send them to Ken.

Here are the parts.

2 1ft. pieces of thick steel C channel.
2 lengths of 1 inch all thread 18inches
4 nuts and heavy duty washers to fit the all thread.
1 small diameter kingpin
1 1/2 inch piece of steel 5inches x 5inches.
1 Kan of Kroil or some other fast penetrating oil.
1 friend to help with assembly.
1 small 5lb. sledge just incase.


Step 1: Take one of the steel C channels and cut a hole large enough for your kingpin
to pass through, yet still lip around the I-Beam's edges.

Step 2: Each piece of channel requires two holes inch in from the ends big enough for
the all thread.

Step 3: Assemble it with the all thread, nuts and washers on the outside. In a sense
making a square frame. it will be a loose assembly.

Step 4: With everthing removed from around the I-Beam place the channel with the hole
on the bottom of the I-Beam. At this point everything becomes a balancing act.

Step 5: Get your friend to help you keep it steady.

Step 6: Place the small diameter kingpin on top of the one you want to press out.

Step 7: Place the 1/2 inch steel on top of that so it is between the small diameter
kingpin and the top C channel.

Step 8: Tighten down the assembly so that it will stand on its on. Make sure the
bottom channel with the hole for the kingpin to pass through is centered.

Step 9: Soak down your old kingpin with the penetrating oil. Let set for a few
moments. You could be removing the excess junk from the other I-Beam

Step 10: Start tightening down the top nuts to the all thread. If you get to a point
where you can not tighten down the nuts anymore SMACK it deadcenter with the sledge.
Then tighten some more. Add some penetrating oil too. Time after starting the
tightening should take no more than 10 minutes to push out the old kingpin.

My neighbor who built this thing and I (most watching him) removed the original
kingpins from my '65 F-100. Think of it... they were in there for more than 30 years!

I will get the photos this weekend I promise.

- -=DENNIS=-

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 16:03:42 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: cams

> From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
> Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 14:41:45 -0500

> IVO (BTDC)-8d (or 8d ATDC) IVC (ABDC)22d
>
> EVO (BBDC)37d EVC (ATDC)-13d (or 13 BTDC)

The intake should be opening well before TDC and the exhaust should
be left open well after the TDC for scavenging but I can't say at
what precise degrees. I'd guess a good 20 degrees in both cases
though like you did.

> What I consider the perfect torque cam:
>
> IVO (BTDC) 24d IVC (ABDC) 60d
>
> EVO (BBDC) 60d EVC (ATDC) 24d
>
> Duration:
> 264d in. and ex. at .006 lift
> Lobe Seperation:
> 108d
> Intake Centerline:
> 108d
> Lift:
> .480 in both in. and ex.

These numbers look like low end torque, RV type power band to me
except for the lobe separation. I would think 112 would be better
for bottom end but you may lose a bunch at the top, not sure.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's....

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