61-79-list-digest Thursday, June 4 1998 Volume 02 : Number 332



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - the pull truck saga
FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Pump
FTE 61-79 - C6 Fun
Re: FTE 61-79 - Junkyard flunky - resolution
FTE 61-79 - Please nominate Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Pump
FTE 61-79 - update on switching out my distributor
FTE 61-79 - Rant
RE: FTE 61-79 - Junkyard flunky - resolution
Re: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Pump
RE: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Pump
Re: FTE 61-79 - C6 Fun
FTE 61-79 - Windshield
Re: FTE 61-79 - 400 timing
FTE 61-79 - Trans. jack
FTE 61-79 - front dana 60 in!!
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: cooling fans
Re: FTE 61-79 -new vs old (simplicity)
FTE 61-79 - sweet deal!!! score!!
FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Fluid
Re: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Fluid
FTE 61-79 - brakes
FTE 61-79 - rE:EFI on 73 302
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: cooling fans

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Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 22:44:31 -0400
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - the pull truck saga

> From: Sleddog



> oooh, i get all excited just thinking about her... oops,
> this is the truck list, not alt.babes.excited

Got to admit I'm excited to continue seeing how the saga unfolds.... and
yeah right... Sleddog in a Cheby.... :)


John Miller, FoMoCoNUT Gibralter.net
96 F-350 Reg Cab XLT, 4x4, 460 w/ A4OD, My Baby "Baloo"
75 F-100 Reg Cab Ranger, 2wd, 360, C6, Daily Driver "Lucy"
and "always" looking ! ! !
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 20:45:26 -0700
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Pump

>I use the Transmission Exchange Co in Portland Oregon frequently. They
>accept charge cards and personal orders. Phone # is 1-800-776-1191.
>Good Luck,
>Don Haulsee
>Richmond, Va

Man! Your a long ways away to be buying parts in my backyard!
Been dealing with them for years.

FTE Content:
Any one ever rebuild a Power steering pump of the 79 vintage?
Tips? Pointers?

Chris
79 Bronco



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Jun 1998 23:51:21 -0500
From: Jim Craig
Subject: FTE 61-79 - C6 Fun

I finally got ahold of someone at Summit who, well didn't know what a wide
ratio kit for a C6 was, but could get me the M-7398-B (Motorsport) for
$329.99. I have two questions: Is this price reasonable, and is this one
of those procedures that requires several degrees to begin to understand?
Don't get me wrong, I've got free time and the tranny's out of the truck,
but it took a lot longer than I could have imagined to sandblast the frame
with one of those tiny little nozzles!

Thanks
Jimbo
'77 Supercab
The Cab's About Ready To Go Back On!


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Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 00:05:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Jason K. Schechner"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Junkyard flunky - resolution

I'm glad it all worked out for you Ken. It's not a common
occurance these days so savor it! :-)

- -Jason, having had moderate luck with junkards....
79 Bronco (460 in progress! C6, 33" BFG AT's) GRN GYNT - offroad monster
79 Bronco (400M, C6, 31" Wranglers) blue - BGHOSS
95 Mustang GT - LTLHOS - Eibachs, 3.55's, K&N, 13deg timing
84 Kawasaki GPz550 - TNYHOS - to make up for the Broncos' appetite

- -----
Jason K. Schechner - check out www.cauce.org and help ban spam-mail.
=The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has bounds=
JaSage: Is over-cooked Southern food petrifried?

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Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 00:12:34 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Please nominate Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Thanks to the support of the members on the lists, Ford
Truck Enthusiasts won Car Lounge's #1 Automotive site
award for Summer 98. The Autumn nominations are now
open. If you like our community here at Ford Truck
Enthusiasts and our mailing lists, please nominate us
at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://carlounge.com/nominate.htm

It sure would be nice to win #1 twice!

Thanks,
Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 21:55:45 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Pump

From: Chris Samuel
>Any one ever rebuild a Power steering pump of the 79 vintage?
>Tips? Pointers?

I've never rebuilt one but it looks like I will fixing a leak in
mine soon. :[ I had a brain storm of using the one off my '76 F350. It
has the same pump as my '73 but when I was taking it off today I noticed
it has a different pulley. I could change pulleys I guess, but it will
probably take less time fixing the leak than it would take to get the
pulleys off (I was going to say pull the pulleys but that sounded like I
was leaving a door open to public ridicule) So I guess my tip is if
you go to the boneyard to look for one, be sure it has the right pulley.

Deacon
deconblu gte.net
=============================
Nuke the unborn baby whales.
=============================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/



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Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 01:16:09 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - update on switching out my distributor

> I have one concern...for those that don't remember I have a 1963
>F100...as I said earlier it runs great and smoothly at higher rpms, but it
>runs a little rough at idle. It has been like that since I rebuilt the
>engine and when I had the mechanical points system. It runs a little
>rough, not to bad, but enough to were is bugs when I am at a stop light.
>Do these old engines run a light rough at idle? I guess I am comparing
>mine to the smoothness of a newer engine with hydraulic lifters.

You could have a valve or two a little tight, a couple a little loose,
throwing off your idle syncronization, a little bit can show up. It's kind
of like when a lifter or two pumps up hard, you'll notice a little roughness.

My dad always set them hot and running, and worked miracles. You might also
be sure you have the right plugs. He swore by Autolite. The 292's I've had
were sweet running engines, and dad's old 312 with the ECZ heads and 3/4
race cam (that's what they were called back then)4 bbl Holley in a '55 Club
Sedan was a terror back in the early '60's.

Vacuam leaks, manifold ones that is, will appear at idle. I've pulled a carb
off before and cleaned off a chunk of old gasket and cured a rough idle.
Re-torque your intake too. If you're running manifold vacuam for your
advance be sure the can and hose isn't leaking.

My experience is that most of the time it's a combination of things that
cause drivability troubles. Love those Y-blocks!
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 01:45:35 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rant

>I appreciate a good rant as much as the next guy but a '95 with 82K on it
>is some pretty severe driving even for a Ford. You might want to consider a
>Ford extended warranty on the next one you buy. I don't know if this was a
>used vehicle or if you put that kind of mileage on it but there are
>alternatives for situations like this. As far as foreign manufacture and
>exorbitant prices for parts...welcome to the glorious "global economy."

I'm spoiled. I've never had a Ford give me less than 200,000 miles of good
service, keeping my "an*l-retentive" maintenence schedule of course. My wife
drove it 80 miles a day on the interstate until graduating this spring. They
aren't hard miles at all. The Ford's I'm used to are just getting their
character established at 80,000. This one is an unbelievably tight and good
driving car, and the little 4 is a gutsy runner, but Cheez... who can afford it.
The extended warranty is a good idea for a car that is of questionable
mechanical stamina, and high in foreign content, as mine seems to be. I'll
probably do it next time.

Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 08:27:24 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Junkyard flunky - resolution

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Junkyard flunky - resolution
> Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 21:47:33 -0400

> too bad that window cracked. hope you find another one in great
> shape soon.

First and only one I ever tried to take out cracked because I got
impatient. We used piano wire and sawed all the way around but kept
running into clips etc. and the wires kept fatigueing and breaking.
When it was almost all the way out I decided we could pull it the
rest of the way and immediately destroyed about an hours work and a
perfectly good windshield :-(

The 78 truck is really neat in that it has a removable rubber which I
saw a pro take out and restore in about 15 minutes, amazing :-)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 08:17:35 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Pump

> From: "Deacon"
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Pump
> Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 21:55:45 -0700

> take to get the pulleys off (I was going to say pull the pulleys but
> that sounded like I was leaving a door open to public ridicule)
> So I guess my tip is if you go to the boneyard to look for one, be
> sure it has the right pulley.

AutoZone will lend you a puller for free and they are pretty easy to
get off with the right tool. To fix the leak beteen the two parts of
your pump you will probably have to take the pulley off anyway. I
know of 3 basic pumps, the ham can, the round with white metal front
and tin rear and the all alloy later model one in the 78's.

I just got a rebuilt one for my 78 for $40. Don't know if you could
rebuild it for much less than that? I suspect the one you have is
the round one in which case you may be able to take off the back by
removing the high pressure line fitting not that I think about it and
then there are a couple of bolts as I recall. The other two require
removal of the pulley for sure.


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 08:26:34 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Pump

and the right hose connections. around here a custom hose costs $45.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Deacon[SMTP:deconblu gte.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 1998 12:55 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Pump

So I guess my tip is if
you go to the boneyard to look for one, be sure it has the right pulley.

Deacon
deconblu gte.net
=============================
Nuke the unborn baby whales.
=============================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 08:46:40 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - C6 Fun

> Date: Wed, 03 Jun 1998 23:51:21 -0500
> From: Jim Craig
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - C6 Fun

> I finally got ahold of someone at Summit who, well didn't know what
> a wide ratio kit for a C6 was, but could get me the M-7398-B
> (Motorsport) for $329.99. I have two questions: Is this price
> reasonable, and is this one of those procedures that requires
> several degrees to begin to understand? Don't get me wrong, I've got
> free time and the tranny's out of the truck, but it took a lot
> longer than I could have imagined to sandblast the frame with one of
> those tiny little nozzles!

If that number refers to the E4OD wide ratio retrofit kit for the C-6
then yes it's a good price. They used to be closer to $600.

If you need to do any serious sand blasting the cost of a cheap
pressure blaster will be offset in the time savings and sand usage.
They are reputed to cut up to 5 times faster and have more
penetration to remove soft material as well but still won't work well
if you don't degrease and remove most of the undercoating with
solvents first. This is high on my list of toys for the future,
right after the transmission jack.......

Speaking of that, I just figured out how to use my engine hoist to
work as a transmission jack (with my new lift of course, won't work
too well in my pit :-)) by making a parallel arm setup to work with
the boom and a quick setup (with pins or something) tranny cage
which stays vertical no matter where the boom is, what do y'all
think? It won't ever tip over for sure and with rubber trailer tires
is pretty easy to move around now. I think I'm on a roll
here.......:-)



78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 08:28:40 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Windshield

Ken writes: >>I'm just going to go with a new one. I can get a new tinted
window for $130-$140.

Exactly what I was going to suggest. Around here we can get it installed
for $150 or there about.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 09:25:57 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400 timing

> From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400 timing
> Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 02:02:15 -0500

> will ping when I advance it further. (too much overlap on the cam
> maybe?) The economy at this setting is satisfactory, and goes away
> quickly when you retard it any. I bumped it back up here this

I've learned both by monkeying and some school courses that timing
depends on several things: mixture and cylinder pressure and rpm.
At idle you run a very lean mixture and low rpms so they cancel to
some extent but the leaness of the mixture rules here so with a vac
you will find it idleing best at around 40 degrees of total advance
most of the time and roughly the same advance at cruise which has
more rpm but a bit richer mixture than idle so again they balance to
some extent. Richer mixture requires less advance, more cylinder
pressure, which happens either due to higher static compression or
better cylinder filling at the torque peak rpm range, will require
less advance due to faster flame propagation due to denser mixture
and rpm is a matter of less time for the flame to travel across the
top of the piston so faster means more advance to start the flame
earlier.

As you can see, some of these counter balance some of the others
at certain rpm ranges and loads so what you have to do to calculate
a proper curve is take all this into account :-) Piecacake right?

> weekend and can see a real difference with 2 degrees change. I guess
> I'll leave it alone. I suspect that the cam is an Edelbrock dual
> pattern 272 int 284 ex with .480 lift because a Ch*vy friend of mine
> has one of that type and has had similar tuning trouble and
> driveability quirks. Timing and lots of it.

The cam spec can affect the timing because of it's influence on
cylinder pressure among other things. I don't know the spec's on my
cam in the 460 but I know it has a .500 or .520 lift and is RV so
probably 12 degree lobe separation and somewhat less than 284
duration and is probably dual pattern but I'm only guessing. These
are good specs for low end torque from what I've been told. 284 is
getting real close to racing specs and I would think is too much for
a truck application unless you like high speeds etc..

I run a vac and always will on street engines no matter how hopped up
I build them simply for drivability and economy. These guys that say
they run fine without one don't know what they are missing, trust me.
The vac in no way interferes with an engine's ability to make power
or rev since at WOT it's out of the loop anyway. If you are not
using a vac then I can see how you may need more initial to make it
run halfway decent on the street, if you are maybe it's not working
right and needs some TLC? My 400 needed this when I first got it.

I've been told that one of the reasons you don't see 460 roller cams
with 1800-4500 rpm ranges is because a 2500 rpm cam will have plenty
of torque to pull a truck with a 460 so it isn't necessary. I tend
to think this may be true so I'm going to try the lowest end roller
in my next rebuild and hope for the best :-)

I know some basic stuff about cams both from classes and this list.
Steve and Dog are pretty sharp on cams and may be able to answer your
questions better there than I can?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 10:22:49 -0400
From: "John Miller"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Trans. jack

> From: Gary, 78 BBB



I just figured out how to use my engine hoist to
> work as a transmission jack (with my new lift of course, won't work
> too well in my pit :-)) by making a parallel arm setup to work with
> the boom and a quick setup (with pins or something) tranny cage
> which stays vertical no matter where the boom is, what do y'all
> think?

I think it will work exactly as stated above, however Gary you might want
to think about the one great thing about true trannie jacks are their
design which through use of "jack screws" make it so easy to tilt both side
to side and fore and aft. Kind of one of those let the tool do the work for
you kind of deals. Now if you can adapt one of those upper assemblies onto
your design I think your in there. Anyway just my $.02 worth. I always
hated R&Ring trannies without a good trannie jack.

John Miller, FoMoCoNUT Gibralter.net
96 F-350 Reg Cab XLT, 4x4, 460 w/ A4OD, My Baby "Baloo"
75 F-100 Reg Cab Ranger, 2wd, 360, C6, Daily Driver "Lucy"
and "always" looking ! ! !

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Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 11:15:55 -0400
From: luxjo thecore.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - front dana 60 in!!

Hey all

Mounted up the front dana 60 in my 78 Bronc yesterday. Fits pretty
well. I thought bigger pumpkin may hit headers, but it seems OK. I also
had to replace lower spring pads as my old one's had rusted somewhat and
bent on the outer edges making both springs bow out toward the outside
of vehicle. Ford does not sell the spring pad so I got a used set. Seems
the springs still bowed toward the outside of truck, just not as much as
with the bent pads. I decied to cut round 1/8 inch plates and weld then
to bottom of pad for extar strength and an attempt at evening out the
spring pad. I bent metal plate to meet curvature of spring pad, leaving
a gap between pad and plate toward outside part of pad. The idea was to
make pad rotate upward on outer edge when mounted. This worked really
well as my springs are now straight up.

The steering linkage will work, but the adjustment between the
knuckles will need to be elongated about an inch. The drag link is way
too short, but I am going to use the dana 60 adjustment part and weld it
to the end of my stock drag link. Luckily, when I made up the SS braided
front brake lines, I left a lot of slack in them as the axle is 2 inches
wider on each end (or was it one inch, a lot anyway ;-)

Gotta get a driveshaft next as my stock one was too short and know
U's are too small. Hope to get one from HD F-250 or F-350. I also need
transfer case flange for bigger U's. Hope to get this stuff from guy I
got dana 60 frotn from.

Chiltons I have claims MC bore is 1 inch on 1/2 ton and 1.0625 on 3/4
and 1 ton, so the F-250 I'm parting out is doning the master cyl and
possibly brake booster if they are different.



Couple questions.

Can the plastic sleeves used on D-60 fronts be used to do alignments? If
not, how do you aling a dana 60 front?

Also, I have locking hubs that postively push and pull by mechanical
mechanism to lock/unlock hubs. They are not the type with the chrome
ring and small rotating red plastic knob in the middle. they have a
large alum black cover that rotates to lock/unlock hubs. There are 3
O-rings to seal out water. Some of them are missing and I was wondering
where I could get these?

Thanks in advance

OX

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Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 11:14:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: cooling fans

> From: sdelanty sonic.net
> Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 13:11:02 -0700
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: cooling fans

> better deal than a single 20" at 2600CFM. All 3 fans appeared to
> use the exact same motor and current draw for the 20" was only
> slightly higher than the 14", so I expect the 20" turns a lot
> slower...

Since surface feet of radiator fin and volume of air flow over this
area is what does the job, it's possible a slower fan used in
conjunction with a full coverage shroud could actually do the same
job. Now, if someone just knew for sure...............:-)

Since I have no clue what the stock fan can muster all these numbers
are meaningless except that we probably want the highest CFM we can
get but as you said it depends on the pressure drop. Looks like from
what you said that we call and ask for the .5" drop spec to get the
reall skinny?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 11:40:55 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 -new vs old (simplicity)

> From: "John Miller"
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FTE 61-79 EFI on 73 302
> Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 16:01:23 -0400

> Geee Peters, I would have bet a mint that you would have known that
> you can still get that C6 behind a 460, well up to the '97 model

Don't plan to buy one so don't keep up :-) As to making it heavier
by adding the 205, it makes it MUCH stronger so the weight means
nothing to me. I don't like any gear box in an aluminum housing
except autos and I don't ever want to deal with another chain drive
xfer case.

> well never too late to learn to fix A/C, it's easy :)

It's not the A/C, it's all the stuff under it that you need to get to
and can't without major surgery :-( I like my engine bays clean and
neat and simple. Eventually I will figure out a "neat" way to make
the whole front clip tip forward so the whole area is easy to get to
and work on. Both my Triumph Spitfire and my F-600 cab-over were
like that and I loved it. Just got to get this barn done so I can
get to all the fun stuff :-)



78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 12:01:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: CLARE WATERMAN
Subject: FTE 61-79 - sweet deal!!! score!!

although this is not truck talk, its ford talk from the same years.

i just scored on a great 79 lincoln town car (same as yours, gary?)
400, c6, 9" rear (i think) 67,000 original miles!! eats no oil! $1250!!
only needs a new doorskin on the rear driver side, otherwise spotless
body. newish tires, brand new exhaust, recently reworked brakes. Fully
loaded with all options from that year. plus shop manuals.

i think the price was low because the owner had just gotten a spotless 84
signature addition continental and some luxury items on the town car are
out of comission--auto door locks, rear vanity lights, and driver 6-way
seat, and cruise all need repair. guess its time to become an electrical
whiz-- not my forte.

the most important item that i want functional soon is the cruise. any
hints as to what to look for right off the bat? Remember i have shop
manuals- they tell me how to troubleshoot, but if you know the switches
always failed or the vacuum always clogged, etc, let me know.

also, can anyone (i.e. gary) recommend a few good lincoln sites on the web
that could save me some surfing time? what about info on 400's.

its cruisin' time........

thanks

Clare M. Waterman-Storer, Ph.D.
Department of Biology
University of North Carolina
Chapel Hill, NC, 27599-3280

T: (919)-962-2354
F: (919)-962-1625


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Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 23:18:53 -0500
From: "Brett"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Fluid

Hi everyone, I've got a 76 F250 with power steering. I didn't realize that
the power steering pumps took ATF and I filled it with regular power
steering fluid. Will this cause any problems and if so what is the best way
to change the fluid over to ATF?

Thanks,
Brett
76 F250 4x4 460 C6 38's
Dana 60 front Dana 70 rear
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Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 09:16:49 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Fluid

Someone can (and will) correct me if I'm wrong but P/S fluid and ATF are
pretty much interchangeable. I think I heard somewhere that P/S fluid might
have a few more additives in it but it wouldn't make that much difference.
I don't think you'll have a problem.

- ----------
> From: Brett
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power Steering Fluid
> Date: Wednesday, June 03, 1998 9:18 PM
>
> Hi everyone, I've got a 76 F250 with power steering. I didn't realize
that
> the power steering pumps took ATF and I filled it with regular power
> steering fluid. Will this cause any problems and if so what is the best
way
> to change the fluid over to ATF?
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 09:54:40 PDT
From: "eldon eversull"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - brakes

I have been lurking since November and have read the archives and really
enjoy this list. I have a 1964 Custom cab F100 "Fred", SWB, styleside,
with a 1970 Torino 302. It is painted file cabinet grey over the
original Corinthian white. I have owned Fred for 15 months, but it took
me about 6 months to get him to move after the drive home. Why? The C4
failed big time on the ride home and then the 700cfm Holley was
splashing gas up both vent tubes. With much fear, I rebuilt it and Fred
actually runs pretty good now.

Virtually everything else has busted except the engine since I have
owned him though. I replaced the rear springs, ordering from ESPO in PA.
Less than $300. I had already replaced the wheel cylinders, rear brake
lines, shoes, and drums, but found later that ESPO had the drums for
$45, less than half of what I paid NAPA. I have ordered stuff from
Carpenter, AutoKrafters, and Drake and been quite satisfied except the
outside mirror set screw was loose and allowed one mirror to fall off
two weeks later (who would of thunk to check that). Also, the window
trim and anti-rattler kit went in well, but the bend you have to put in
the upper back corner was not as good looking as the one the smiling guy
on the back cover of the catalog did.

I have gotten alot of stuff from JC Whitney also, but have found their
stuff to be a little thinner or whatever, than original. Their formed
whole cab floor mat may have been specifically for Fred, but it took me
a whole day to get it in and cut all the holes that needed to be in it.
Their bedliner that you have to cut worked out well and is very thick
and sturdy.

I have noticed quite a few people with 60 to 64's asking about disk
brakes while I have been lurking. The only place I have called
(4/30/98) that was at all positive has been Stainless Steel Brakes (NY).
The guy there said that they had had a lot of inquiries and were
thinking about it, maybe this fall. If you have a 60 to 64, you might
want to call them, 800.448.7722, to get them alittle more excited.
Their web page is www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com

Eldon, Alexandria, VA

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 13:20:34 EDT
From: bobherring juno.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rE:EFI on 73 302

ballingr ldd.net wrote:
>I have a '95 Contour that I've spent more on keeping going than I spent
on
>my truck's ressurection. $400 for a German made cooling fan, $110 for a
U.K.
>made rotor. I need to replace the clutch in the near future, $275
dollars
>for parts and 12 hrs(that's right, 12 hrs) of labor. Yeah, buddy. Now
the
>driver's side seat track has a broken spring that releases it to move.
Do
>you think they'd sell me a spring? No, I need a whole seat track
assembly at
>$250 plus shipping from Germany. "World Car" indeed! THIS IS SUPPOSED TO
BE
>A FORD!!!! At 82,000 miles it's worth about $6000. My payoff right now
is
>$11,000. Need I say more?
>Ballinger
>ballingr ldd.net
I know this is not 61-79 content but just can't resist, sorry.
I have the Mercury version of the Contour, the Mystique also a '95.
When did the cooling fan go out? Mine just turned over to 79,000 this
morning.
I am in almost exactly the same spot as far as the payoff and worth.

Have you had any problems with a miss under a load, like going up a hill
or
when lugging it? I have replaced the plug wires three times, now. The
first time, I ran
about a dozen bottles of the injector cleaner thru it, changed the
plugs($4.00 each!)
and finally changed the wires. The wires fixed it. It started doing it
again about
5,000 miles later. Changed the wires again and it stopped it again.
This last set was not more than 3 months old. Any ideas?

I guess these are supposed to be improvements but at what cost?
32 to 35 mpg is nice, though.
Bobby Herring


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 10:26:54 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: cooling fans

>Since surface feet of radiator fin and volume of air flow over this
>area is what does the job, it's possible a slower fan used in
>conjunction with a full coverage shroud could actually do the same
>job. Now, if someone just knew for sure...............:-)

Absolutely, a good full coverage shroud helps, but You've still got
to move some minimum CFM to remove the required amount of heat.
It seems like a 14" fan that moves 2500 CFM 0.4"H2O, or a 20" fan
that moves 2500 CFM 0.4"H2O would do exactly the same job, *if* they
both have decent shrouds that let them use the entire rad surface area...

I went with 2 fans because I figured it was overkill enough to be sure
I don't have to be nervous in traffic jams on 105 degree days...
I hate sitting in traffic watching the temp gauge keep climbing while I
pound on the steering wheel shouting, "C'mon, LETS GO!

I'll bet somewhere deep in the Ford archives there's data on how
much air the stock fan moves at xxx rpm...
C'mon Gary, buy a couple of the old timers at Ford a beer and see
if You can make 'em dig it up for us! (-:

>Since I have no clue what the stock fan can muster all these numbers
>are meaningless except that we probably want the highest CFM we can
>get but as you said it depends on the pressure drop.

That was the intent of posting the numbers is to show that they are
meaningless unlesss You know the static pressure drop during testing,
*and* know the pressure drop when installed in Your system.....


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