61-79-list-digest Friday, May 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 318



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - 68 F100 questions (semi long)
Re: FTE 61-79 - virtual motors
Re: FTE 61-79 - virtual motors
Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Ranchero list?
FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel
Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel
FTE 61-79 - Re: Ranchero List
Re: FTE 61-79 -Steering Wheel Restoration was Att. Gary Bowling
FTE 61-79 - FE timing question
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rednecks/Junkyard
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rednecks/Junkyard
FTE 61-79 - 460 replacing an FE
Re: FTE 61-79 - non FTE
FTE 61-79 - 62 F100, Elec. Problems
Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 in 85 bronco
Re: FTE 61-79 - headers for f150 4x4 with 429
FTE 61-79 - EFI on a '73 302
Re: FTE 61-79 - brake probs
FTE 61-79 - Guage Help
FTE 61-79 - 70 F100 S/B 2wd
Re: FTE 61-79 - Guage Help
FTE 61-79 - SWMBO
[none]
FTE 61-79 - Re: Clutch Chatter
FTE 61-79 - Att. Gary Bowling

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Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 18:24:30 EDT
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 68 F100 questions (semi long)

Hi Mark,

I'll try to tackle a few of your questions:

3. How should I handle the wiring on this truck?
I'm trying to figure out why someone would change the steering column, must
have been a transmission swap when they put in the engine as well. I'll bet
its out of the same approximate year truck, but a stick shift (if the original
was auto) or an auto (if the original was a stick). Either way, you can still
get the steering column wiring harnesses from junkyards (seems a lot of
junkyards carry these, but brand new in the packages), Obsolete Ford and a
bunch of other places. You might pull off your steering wheel and see whats
there, then see if the replacement unit looks the same. I don't think this job
is a lot of fun, but it might cure whatever smoking problems you may have had.
Of course, this would be a waste of time if all the turn signals, horn, and
other accessories all work. Look under the dash and see if you can find some
burnt wires.....might want to replace or at least cover them up...

4. What can be done about the play in the steering?
A good way to nail down where the play is coming from is to fire up the
engine, have a friend steer the wheel from left to right (just a few inches
each way) while you crawl under and around and see where the slop is. Once you
find it, we can go from there. For example, you steering box should have some
adjustment in it, or a ragjoint (between the steering box and the firewall on
the steering shaft) may be shot....let us know what you see...

5. What should be done abou the brakes?
Couple of ways to go here....do you feel confident in working on them
yourself? If so, pull apart one axle at a time and inspect everything, you may
need new brake shoes and have the drums turned. Also check to see if there is
any brake fluid on the drums, and indication of a bad wheel cylinder. I'm not
sure how easy it is to find new brake drums for these if you need them, but
I'm sure somebody here does...

This isn't much help, but at least its a start....let us know how it goes!

Colorado Jeff

P.S.: Hope you didn't start another FE vs. 385 war with your engine swapping
question.....
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Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 15:54:05 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - virtual motors

>I must have missed it, what web page for the animated engine ??

That would be mine. It's nothun spectacular but it's kinda cute
and since it's my first attempt I'm kinda proud of it... (-:
Thanks to Deacon for the help with it!
Address below...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

Opportunity may knock only once, but temptation
leans on the doorbell.

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Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 15:54:07 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - virtual motors

>My mistake, it is animated. Didn't wait long enough for all the junk
>to load I guess. Pretty cool Steve :-)

Whew, You had me worried! I thought I was gonna have to take my virtual
toolbox and virtual gas can and go fix it... (-:

>You'd still be trying to figure it out on Auto Cad 14..........:-)

I'd love to try, but AutoCAD 14 was way out of my price range... )-:
Turbo CAD v4 was over $300 cheaper and since I've never used any
CAD system until 9 days ago, I really didn't know quite what to expect
from one. I'm very impressed with it so far. I've spent about 30 hours
using it so far, so the learning curve is real steep right now and I'm
having *lot's* of fun! (-:

FWIW, on paper the "motor" had the following dimensions:

217.9 CID V-8 (Or 54.5 CID V-twin..)
3.40" bore
3.00" stroke
5.00" connecting rod
1.60" rod big end journal diameter
0.60" " small end " "
1.10" piston compression height

The origional animated drawing is big (about 640 x 480 pixels) and has 16
frames, in 22.5 degree rotation increments. I may post it to another
page and put a link to it. It's slow to rotate but that's cool cuz it
gives a chance to see what the pistons and rods are doing in 22.5 degree
increments. TurboCAD will also calculate the rod angles and how far
down the pistons are for each stage.
CAD is pretty cool, I'll bet I can use it to help design all kinds of
weird new junk for my F100. (-:

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

Opportunity may knock only once, but temptation
leans on the doorbell.

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Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 15:54:10 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: Ranchero list?

>> power, but Ihate to see the knowledge base get split up too
>> much...

>You and I have time to deal with the traffic but some do not so will
>give up the pool in the hopes of getting an answer from one of their
>own type with less Deacon and Gary and Jerry (bronco list) cluttering
>up the mail box.

Yeah, I agree it can get a little overwhelming for me sometimes too,
but I've learned to use DEL a lot more lately also.
The hard thing about that is that subjects stray and soon the subject
header and the actual post have nothing to do with each other...
It helps if we can all try and make it a practice to change the subject
header when threads change topic...

Steve
Homepage: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/

Opportunity may knock only once, but temptation
leans on the doorbell.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 16:39:33 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel

I'm thinking about refurbing the steering wheel on my 76. It has a
leather/vinyl texture band that circles the horn button. This texture is
cast into the plastic/resin of the steering wheel and if I fill the cracks
would like to reproduce the texture in those areas. Does anyone have any
good ideas how to do it? I have considered sanding down the textured area
to simply remove it from the wheel and make the repair simpler, but I don't
think I would like the results. I guess I could try it on another wheel and
see if I like it. I would really rather figure out how to reproduce this
texture.

TIA

Tom H.
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Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 17:09:18 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel

I bought a vinyl repair kit once that came with several small pieces of
plastic that had different textures cast into them to reproduce various
vinyl patterns. All you did was press the piece of plastic into the goop
after you spread it on the hole/cut/tear and pulled it off after it dried.
I bought the kit at a local auto parts store and while it didn't work for
sh*t on the vinyl repairs you could probably find a texture close to what
you need. Sorry I can't remember the brand name, it was quite a few dead
brain cells ago!

- ----------
> From: Hogan, Tom
> To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Steering wheel
> Date: Thursday, May 28, 1998 4:39 PM
>
> I'm thinking about refurbing the steering wheel on my 76. It has a
> leather/vinyl texture band that circles the horn button. This texture is
> cast into the plastic/resin of the steering wheel and if I fill the
cracks
> would like to reproduce the texture in those areas. Does anyone have any
> good ideas how to do it? I have considered sanding down the textured
area
> to simply remove it from the wheel and make the repair simpler, but I
don't
> think I would like the results. I guess I could try it on another wheel
and
> see if I like it. I would really rather figure out how to reproduce this
> texture.
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 20:59:27 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Ranchero List

>Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Ranchero list?

>Anyone here think a Ranchero list would be a good idea?

There is already a Fairlane, Ranchero & Torino list in operation if anyone
is interested.

To s*bscribe go to: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dfwmotorsport.com/Fairlane

Chuck Colvin
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.CoolRides.com/CR001.html




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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 21:41:36 -0400
From: "Kristen Marcellus"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 -Steering Wheel Restoration was Att. Gary Bowling

Marko wrote:

>Anyway, the wheel from my 67 is perfect, but as Ford was prone to do, it
>has been painted. I was thinking about the best way to remove the paint. I
tried glass >beading a
>spot but the bead just bounced off. I tried a bit of thinners and they
>worked, but that would probly do some serious damage to the plastic
>underneath. I was thinking stripper may work but with the same problem of
>stripping out the oils in the plastic underneath. What about sanding? is
>that what you did? What papers did you use? Can you send me some info?

My husband builds plastic models as a hobby and uses car paint on them. If
the paint job isn't to his liking, he removes it with Easy-off oven cleaner.
It doesn't seem to harm the plastic as long as you don't leave it on too
long (he's not home so I can't ask him the time span). Just remember to
ventilate the area well when you're using it.

Kristen (MrsSlix66 email.msn.com)



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Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 22:50:43 -0400
From: William King
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE timing question

Quick question (this is an easy one!).
I just dropped an Edelbrock carb onto my
68 360 FE. Which vacum fitting do I hook
the distributor up to (it is a stock
distributor)? Does the distributor need
vacum at idle or not?
Ohio Bill


William R. King
Acting Director
Criminal Justice Program
Bowling Green State University
Bowling Green, OH 43403
(419) 372-0373 (office)
(419) 372-8089 (fax)
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Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 23:51:55 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rednecks/Junkyard

i'm about 40 miles south of atlanta,about 10 miles from I-75
jeff grant
griffin,ga.
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Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 23:56:49 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rednecks/Junkyard

dan,forget my last post,i wasn't paying any attention.i thought you were
mailing
me,i didn't know someone else in georgia was selling ford parts.
jeff grant
griffin,ga.
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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 00:00:17 -0400
From: "Melayne Arnold"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 replacing an FE

Azie seems to be the person to ask about 460 swaps as he has done quite a
few. I'm on my third one now so I'll add my 2 cents. Its not very difficult
as most fords are designed to be flexible but I have run into a couple of
problems with 460's.
1.) motor mounts
Unless you're into making your own mounts, FOMOCO or L&L seem to be the
best
way to go. I've tried every combination I could think of to avoid paying
the high dollar
for these but nothing I've found would work. I've found if you mate the
engine and
transmission, put them in together, then bolt in the transmission tail
so your stock
drive shaft fits, the front mounts will line up on the frame where they
need to be. You
might have to drill new holes or weld the towers in but they will fit
right.
2.)oil pans
If you use the three piece motor mounts the engine will sit so that a
front sump oil
pan has plenty of clearence from the crossmember, but, be aware of where
your
drain plug is before you put it together. Most car pans have the drain
plug on the side,
which causes a mess on trucks (thread being discussed thoroughly on site
now). I
use these oil pans (cheap at junk yard), but before I install them I
drill a new drain
hole in the front and fit it with a plug.
3.)exhaust manifolds
If you want to use standard manifolds that's fine. If the engine came
out of a car the
driver's side manifold will fit, but, the passenger side will overlap
the frame about
an inch and a half. Some people just notch their frame enough to bolt
the exhaust
on, but I'm a chicken I guess, this is way to close to the motor mount
and the torque
the frame must withstand to be cutting on IMHO. You have a couple of
options, hunt
the junk yards for a 460 "truck" manifold (they come straight down from
the exhaust
and hug the block more), these are fairly common but they do seem to be
getting
harder to find, or a good set of headers (Stan's Tri-Y's?).
These are problems that are easily overcome, just a pain in the butt when
you first encounter them. I'm no auto guru, but even I feel fairly
comfortable with this swap now
Plus if you do put in the 460 you'll never look back and say "I just wish it
had more power". Good Luck. The best advice I can give is holler real loud
"HELP!!!" to the list if you run into problems. They'll no doubt read this
and correct anything I've put in wrong, that's the only way I feel confident
in even giving advice.

Stoney

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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 00:07:06 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - non FTE

you're right
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Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 21:10:09 -0700
From: mitzm earthlink.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 62 F100, Elec. Problems

I just found this list. Sounds like lots of good info.

I've got a 62 F100 stepside that is a total stripper, six, 3 on the tree etc. The problem is that the turn signal wiring is all screwed up. A shop did some dickin around with it years ago and I've messed it up further trying to get it straightened out.

I want to replace the switch (the lever is stripped out) and hook it all up right once and for all.

Does anybody have a copy of the wiring diagram they could snail mail me or is there one posted somewhere?

How do you replace the the switch? (I'm stumped on how to remove the horn button).

Is there a FAQ for this type of stuff?

Thanks,
Mitzm




Mitzm mail.earthlink.net


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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 00:27:58 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 390 in 85 bronco

you're better off to locate a 69 -71 model 351w,the 69 was the only one
offered with a 4 barrel and it was factory rated at 290 hp,which is generaly
rated lower than it actualy is.an early model engine has better compression
and head design.about the only mods i would recommend are,port the exhaust
ports on the heads,blend in the
pockets on the intake side,a good dual plane aluminum intake,a mild rv type
cam,lifters and matching springs,headers,and a balanced engine is nice.
i always like to go hog wild with a die grinder and a rotary
file,deburing and polishing the crank,the rods,the lifter valley,the top of
the heads,any thing to make the oil flow back to the pan faster.its not really
worth the efforts on a pure street engine,but it doesn't hurt either.
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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 00:32:15 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - headers for f150 4x4 with 429

i have a 78 ford f150 with a 429 pi,can anyone recommend an in expensive set
of headers for this combo,the 29 or 60 was not offered in a f150,i have been
told hooker
makes a set,but they're 350.00 plus,i'm looking for a set of 150- 200.00
headers.
thanks for any info.
jeff grant
griffin,ga.
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Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 22:10:22 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - EFI on a '73 302

First I'd like to add my 2 cents on:

From: Ken
>If I play list God, people leave. If I let the list get out of
>control, people leave. I have to walk the fine line between the
>two extremes. What makes it even more difficult is that many
>people on the list are my friends.

As a member, friend and a person who has abused the leniency given
this list, I will try to scale down my posting and stop my off topic
post. It shouldn't take a warning message or being placed on a taboo
list to keep a friend in line. If it happens to me I'd know whom to
blame. As far as the solution you have imposed, I say it's as fair as
any solution could be, so I fully agree with it's implementation.

Now for some FTE content.

I just finished helping a friend install a Cobra upper and GT-40
lower intake on his '94 Mustang. He gave me his stock upper and lower
manifold and also a 60mm throttle body. I have hopes of one day putting
this on my '73 F100 302. With all the parts I need to collect, the
project is a ways down the road. I will try and pick up most of the
parts at the junkyard. I understand the same intake is use on Tbirds so
it should make things easier to find. Did Effies running EFI 5.0s use
the same intakes? Aside from the O2 sensors in the exhaust it looked to
me that the other sensors are located in the air cleaner, mass air unit
(I think that's what it's called) and the throttle body. The fuel rails,
injectors, wiring harness, electric fuel pump, fuel presure regulator
and EEC are also needed to do this. I think I may also need to change my
ignition system. Does the EEC interact with the TFI ignition module? If
I used an MSD ignition module in place of the TFI module could I still
use my existing distributor and coil. If I need to use a new distributor
how can I tell the difference between a roller blocks and non-roller
blocks.
I would like to hear what people think of doing this. Not just the
tech gurus but anyone. Once the parts are collected it's not that much
work putting it together or mounting the control modules. Theoretically
it should increase bottom end and get better mileage. Most of all look
berry berry cool! No matter what kind of point you would like to make,
I'd like to hear it. If you have tech info both +\- I want to hear it
most of all. TIA
Later!

Deacon
deconblu gte.net
=============================
Nuke GM and the unborn baby whales.
=============================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/



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Date: Thu, 28 May 1998 22:43:00 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - brake probs

From: >dug in louisiana
>i use to have to pump the brakes in my truck due to air in the lines
i know
>i need to bleed the brakes). lately the brakes have improved, on their
own.
>How come? i checked the wheel cylinders and no fluid is leaking out.
did the
>air make it back up to the master cylinder? Can anybody explain this
one?

An air bubble will move around in the line and with the MC being at
the highest point the air bubble can find it's way to it and escape on
it's own. The air bubble can get into a high point in the line where
there's not enough movement in the fluid to escape. I would never count
on the air bubble to escape on it's own and would never let brakes that
needed to be pumped go without fixing. If something was to happen where
you needed to make an emergence stop, chances are your brain wouldn't
let your foot pump the brake peddle. Instead your foot would go to the
floor and stay there.

Deacon
deconblu gte.net
=============================
Nuke GM and the unborn baby whales.
=============================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/



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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 03:04:41 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Guage Help

Hey all-

All of the guages in my '70 F-100 don't work, and I've tried two other
dashes without luck. I would like to test the sending units to find out
wether the problem is in the wiring, or in the actual sensors themselves,
so I was wondering if somebody could give me the Ohm, Volt, or whatever
range for the Temp, Oil Pressure, and Fuel guage sending units. Thanks a
bunch!

Tony
tony pscico.com
www.pscico.com/~tony
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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 03:35:35 -0400
From: "Rogers"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 70 F100 S/B 2wd

New to the list, thank you, thank you! Five years ago, I moved my
sweetheart from the the warm and airy clime of Mississippi to the cruel
harsh SALTY winters of Michigan. Even though I only drove her 1 winter in
these conditions, everytime I look at her underbelly I want to cry. Is
there an economical, earth friendly, non-lethal method that anyone has used
that will rid my sweetheart of underbody corrosion??
Also, are the harmonic dampeners on 289 and early 302 engines the same?
Are the pulley dimensions the same? I transplanted a 289 engine into the
vehicle from a 69 Galaxie 500. This was rebuilt with a short block 302 and
now I have an engine vibration that goes away at about 40 mph. The engine
is attached to a Ford 3-spd transmission.
One last thing I'd like to find out about is whether I can transplant disc
brakes to this truck from another vehicle.

Regards,
Rogers
rbmii msn.com





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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 00:49:44 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Guage Help

From: Tony Marino
>All of the guages in my '70 F-100 don't work, and I've tried two other
>dashes without luck. I would like to test the sending units to find
out
>wether the problem is in the wiring, or in the actual sensors
themselves,
>so I was wondering if somebody could give me the Ohm, Volt, or whatever
>range for the Temp, Oil Pressure, and Fuel guage sending units. Thanks
a
>bunch!

I can't give you any tech stuff but I do think your looking in the
wrong places. It would be unlikely that all the sending units have gone
bad. Each gauge will more than likely have one wire that is common to
all three gauges and that would be the wire that is giving you the
problem. The common wire would probably supply power and the other
supply a ground by connecting to the sending unit.
To test this you could check the common wire for current. If there
is no current trace the wire back to where it originates. You may be
able to fix it by running a wire from where it originates or has power
to where it connects to the instrument panel.
The continuity of a sending unit varies which enables it to move the
indicator. So it wouldn't be possible to give you a unit of measure for
testing.

Deacon
deconblu gte.net
=============================
Nuke GM and the unborn baby whales.
=============================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/



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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 04:09:15 -0500
From: "Bear"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - SWMBO

Can someone enlighten me on what "SWMBO" means?
Thanks

E-mail :  bear269 sparc.isl.net
Please view my home page at:
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 04:02:20 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: [none]

>
>> I have a 1978 F-150 with a 351 M. It seems that I have a miss when
>> the motor is cold but when it is warm it is fine. The temp here is
>
>You need to get someone to help you tune the carb and get all the
>parts working right including the choke, idle mixture, accellerator
>pump and gaskets etc.. You could have some valve lash problems but
>that's highly unlikely.

Just a few thoughts here. My truck had bad ring seal when I first bought it
especially #8 due to gas wash and wide piston clearances. It ran pretty fair
when warm, but had a miss when cold. Stank of fuel to high heaven. I put on
the Q-jet with a new fuel pump, and a good tune-up with BRF-42 plugs, new
points, new coil, dist cap. I also swapped out the distributor from my '67
since the centrifugal advance was locked up. A 195 thermostat and 89 octane
gas in a clean tank with new rubber sections of fuel line and filters, and
blew out the metal line with air. I set the timing by a vacuam guage,
because I think that the balancer is wrong. (25 degrees initial?)No ping or
starter kickback and 16 hg of vacuam. Then I drove it like I was breaking in
a new engine. After about three weeks the miss went away. The blow-by
dropped by half, but still has more than I think it should. Still a lot of
piston noise, that won't go away of course. Number 8 shows a little oil
consumption on the plug, but it runs strong. The improvement is 100% from
where it was when I limped it home. I'm almost satisfied with it.

As Gary and others have said before the state of tune is where to begin, it
won't run with no chance to do so. This stuff is the best money you can
spend. How many rigs have you seen with all the pretty chrome stuff under
the hood, and a fat carb, no choke, and distributor without vacuam advance,
and frozen centrifugal weights? They always say it has a big cam in it, but
when you line it out it turns out to be stock or close to it, with 10 times
more go. I've seen it more than I can stand.

If you think that your cylinders are glazed, I've put a squirt of ATF in
each cylinder and fired it up (use old plugs, and don't use too much or
you'll possily create a hydraulic condition in one or more cylinders and bend
something)the ATF will clean the crud off. I've also poured it slowly down
the carb, got it smoking then drowned it out. Let it sit for 30 min, then
ran it like running in a new engine (drive it under moderate load, speed up
and slow down a few times till the smoke clears) You'll have to put in new
plugs of course. Do it out in the open country or the Fire Dept will want to
know where the burning house is. (lots of smoke) I plan to do this on mine
before my next set of plugs.

I've brought my share of whipped pups back to life, and these are the basics
that I've used. Can anyone recommend anything else?

Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net

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Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 04:11:00 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (William L Ballinger)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Clutch Chatter

>ideas, but I have a sneaking suspicion the clutch release arm might be a
>good place to start(I checked it and it looks pretty wobbly)

My release arm is a little sloppy too, though with my new clutch I don't
have any chatter(I know, I should have done it when I had it apart). Is
there a trick that I could use to pull the arm without pulling the trans? Is
there anything that needs to be done to the anchor in the bellhousing? I
should fix this before it wrecks my clutch.
Come on over to my Back Porch
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr
Ballinger
ballingr ldd.net

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