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61-79-list-digest Wednesday, May 13 1998 Volume 02 : Number 269



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - F100 Rear springs
> FTE 61-79 - 1966 Emergency
Brake - Pull Lever or Pedal?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Charging systems
FTE 61-79 - Rope Seal
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine buying ??'s
Re: FTE 61-79 - Need opinions on engine rebuild/replacement
Re: FTE 61-79 - driveshaft
FTE 61-79 - heads off
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351 family....
Re: FTE 61-79 - 351 family....
Re: FTE 61-79 - Charging systems
FTE 61-79 - RE: Interval Wipers
Re: FTE 61-79 - Need opinions on engine rebuild/replacement
FTE 61-79 - driveshaft
re: FTE 61-79 - 74 F100 RANGER SUPER CAB 390 AT
Re: FTE 61-79 - Charging systems
Re: FTE 61-79 - Charging systems
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1966 Emergency Brake - Pull Lever or Pedal?

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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 10:41:08 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - F100 Rear springs
>
> Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 18:25:00 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Steve & Rockette
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - F100 Rear
springs
>
> A buddy at work asked (axed??) me today if I could find out if he
> could put F350 rear
springs on his F100, he wants to use it to haul
> his camper, it does have a Dana 60 in it now, with a cheesy helper
> spring. What do you guys think??

Length and width are the only things stopping him. If the length is
within a couple of inches and the width is the same as original then
it's a no brainer. If he's really serious and the specs don't match
up right then he can go to a spring shop for a few bucks and get
extra leafs and new "U" bolts put on. I just threw some extra
leafs in my F-150 from a 75 van but used the original main leaf and
most of the original leaves as well. I already had some longer "U"
bolts and the through bolt is just a long bolt but probably should be
grade 5 or 8 to be correct.

Last load I hauled was 2.38 tons and it wasn't bottomed out or even
close but the poor tires really took a beating :-)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 09:43:45 -0500
From: Mike Warren
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 1966 Emergency Brake - Pull Lever or Pedal?

Anybody have any idea what type of emergency brake system is on a 1966
F100 - I had assumed it was a pedal, however people are mentioning it
might be a pull lever. - Also, where is it located? - I had been looking
for the pedal which is not there - where would the pull handle be?

Thanks
Mike
66 F100 Custom Cab - Short Bed
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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 09:48:19 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Charging systems

>OK guys and gals, let's get two things straight, then you can throw me off
>the list if you like.
NOPE! Your staying!
I am only 5'11 215, I am scared of big guys! :)

> 1.) I'm 6'2" and tip the scales at near 200. I've had small cars, I've had
>Japanese and German cars. I hate 'em and I'm not driving them. I've had
>front wheel drive and I don't care for it either. I drive big, old cars and
>trucks because I like them, I can afford the gas, I don't have a payment
>and I'm sick of the scum sucking greenie socialists that want to outlaw
>anything that is remotely fun. Freon 12 doesn't eat the ozone. Dupont's
>patent expired and anyone can make it now. Almost everyone does except in
>the US. The Freon black market from Mexico is bigger than cocaine.
>2.) I've lived long enough to know that when I can't legally own guns
>anymore, then I'll own them illegally. But you will never read about my
>final stand off with the "law" because when that time comes you will only
>be reading what the government wants you to read. That's not living in my
>book.
>
>This tirade is not directed at any individual. I absolutely totally
>rerspect your right to disagree with me. This list has become an addiction.
>I couldn't stand to read the entire anti-SUV site. Consumer Ripoffs is the
>last organization that I would trust with testing results. They are a major
>contributor to the decline in American goods being produced in America. If
>you tell people that something is bad, eventually they will believe it
>whether it is true or not. It's real funny to me how Americans can't make a
>decent product (in their opinion), but they can spring for the bucks to buy
>their inaccurate crummy research.
>
>BUY AMERICAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tell us how you really feel!! Deep down I'll bet you're a whale lovin
breast feeding, long haired hippy type, tree lovin, anti - Nuke, greenpeace
- - flower sellin Hare Krishna
in hiding in the federal witness protection program kinda person....tell the
truth!

Seriously JOHN!! AMEN and preach on brother! I am with you 110%. Ford Iron
rules! Nuke GM!

Deacon, Here's you open shot, I want to hear it!
Sorry, I couldn't resist all this!

STU
;^) I love to hear a good vent I agree with!

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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 10:09:03 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rope Seal

>> Can the rope seal be replaced with a neoprene (or whatever is used
>> these days) without any other changes? Rob '71 F100, 360 4Spd
>
>I believe they can but I can't remember ever doing it so not sure. A
>quick call to the parts store can probably verify this?
>
It would have to be a special seal made for a rope replacement because a
plain rubber seal has a notch in it around the circumference which fits
onto a ridge in the seal groove in the block/bearing cap. A rope seal just
has a big groove. Without that ridge, I would think the rubber seal would
tend to rotate with the crank.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 11:09:27 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine buying ??'s

> Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 09:07:38 -0400 (EDT)
> From: CLARE WATERMAN
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - engine buying ??'s

> when buying a used engine, what are some things to look for?
>
> its a 390 out of the car and has the heads pulled off- should i be

> able to see cracks w/o mangaflux?

This is a tough one because many cracks will absolutely not show up
till you expose the cast iron to a strong magnetic field at which
point the opposing sides of the crack "apparently" oppose each other
so the crack widens enough to be seen. I've seen this happen on
several sets of heads.

Give us some back ground so we know how to direct the thread for you?
Are you mechanically knowledgeable yourself? Do you plan to do most
of the work yourself? How much do you want to invest in the project?
How much time do you have to apply to this project?

If you want something to bolt in then an engine which is apart is not
a good choice. If it's been sitting outside and is apart I'd stay
away from it (unless you know it's recently been opened up) because
the crank and other parts are probably pitted by now. If it's intact
then look for lots of grease etc. as an indication of it's age etc..
Is it from a wreck or just old? If it's been hit hard from either
end the crank could be cracked from the impact. I've heard of front
stubs falling right off due to this.

If the heads are off and you want this for a rebuild project look at
the combustion chambers for signs of rust or carbon build up which is
not present in other cylinders, IOW for differences in condition of
each which might indicate a cracked head (water leak) or excessively
burned valve and also the edges of the valves for burning and the
seats for recessing into the head due to low lead gas etc.. Look at
the valve stems for crusting of material which might indicate severe
oil leakage or even blow by past the guides etc..

Except for cracks all these things can be overcome with enough cash
but it's nice to find one that doesn't need everything replaced :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 08:05:37 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Need opinions on engine rebuild/replacement

From: Gary,
>Deacon, what's that old saying? "Great minds......" :-) I just
>basically told him the same thing :-) That's how I started :-)

The value of experience is in direct proportion to the cost of
mistakes made learning. :) Your right about taking a class and finding
the right way of doing it. I'm a certified aircraft mechanic and had to
study both turbine and piston engines for my cert. At times I forget
it's not all just second nature to me. I actually went to school for a
few years to learn how to bust my knuckles and leak as much blood as a
hockey player. It took many more years to forget what I learned in
school so I could do the job right. :)
It's not easy, it's not cheap and their are few shortcuts doing it
yourself. But the rewards are great! I remember the first bike I built.
It started on the first kick. I was screaming at the top of my lungs and
everyone came running out of their houses thinking I was hurt.
If anyone would like to see the turbofan engines I worked on, I put
some pictures up at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/eng/ for a friend.
The engine pictures are named e1a.jpg, the e1b.jpg are the spec's (that
didn't come out very well). None of the people in the photos are me.
They don't put people that look like me in company pictures. :)

Deacon
deconblu gte.net
=============================
Nuke the unborn baby whales.
=============================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/



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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 11:15:43 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - driveshaft

> Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 08:33:01 -0600 (CST)
> From: Stu Varner
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - driveshaft

> also when i was under the truck i found out where my gas mileage is
> >going .RIGHT ON THE GROUND . hole in the tank . i bought >this
> stuff called MAGNUM STEEL it is to patch >gas tanks .ever heard of
> it ? hope it works .

I'd highly recommend a poly vinyl or poly propolyne tank. They don't
rust and are thick enough to take a whack once in a while and chafing
won't eat through them as easily as steel.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 10:17:32 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - heads off

>From: CLARE WATERMAN
>its a 390 out of the car and has the heads pulled off- should i be
able
>to see cracks w/o mangaflux?

I agree with Deacon. Why take a good engine apart? The best way to buy a
used engine is to hear it run and see the dirt. If that isn't possible, you
need to be able to inspect the exhaust, the oil, and the coolant. If you
can't see any of these, you may be buying more trouble than you have
already. Any vehicle that has been sitting is doing so for a reason.


- -John

jmlagron tenet.edu
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI AOD
1979 MC (my son is rebellious)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 11:22:45 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351 family....

> From: "Bill Beyer"
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 351 family....
> Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 07:04:53 -0700

> Is a 351M a big block or a small block?
> IMHO you can call it a big small block but I think most would put it
> in the small block category. For more info check out this web site:....


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