61-79-list-digest Thursday, May 7 1998 Volume 02 : Number 252



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Events List
FTE 61-79 - 360 Rear seal replacement
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 Rear seal replacement
RE: FTE 61-79 - Door latch posts-rusted
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: toploader
Re: FTE 61-79 - Door latch posts
FTE 61-79 - Mercedes and Chrysler merger
FTE 61-79 - Tires for truck pull
FTE 61-79 - Highboy
FTE 61-79 - Alternato Wiring Problem
FTE 61-79 - Old stuff
RE: FTE 61-79 - Tires for truck pull
FTE 61-79 - F-100 Nats
Re: FTE 61-79 - Old stuff
Re: FTE 61-79 - F-100 Nats
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 Rear seal replacement
RE: FTE 61-79 - Tires for truck pull
Re: FTE 61-79 - Alternato Wiring Problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - Old stuff
Re: FTE 61-79 - Old stuff

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 04:07:54 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Events List

From: William L Ballinger
>My page should be up and running in a couple more days. I have to thank
Ken
>and Deacon for their inspiration and know-how. Thanks guys.

Aaaw shucks, twernt nothen! Ken teached me eveythin I no! :}

>Congratulations on the award, I agree wholeheartedly that we have the
best
>thing going, in the automotive vein, on the web. I have found our
>information and links to be the best I've read. Ken and Peggy deserve a
>round of applause, whadddya say....>>

Ditto! >
I think I've got the... Faults alarm. My bad. Sorry! :]
Ken, Peggy Thanks! You have treated us like friends from the start.
Sure, everyone gets mad at me somewhere along the line but I feel that
has taken the heat off the other members. :) You showed me how to make
Web pages and even cut me in on the Dragonfire site. If it wasn't for
your help I wouldn't have received the offer of employment I just
received. The company my wife works for has asked me to be their
Internet sales rep. They also want me to train their sales staff on
using the Internet for research. They offered to pay me $85 an hour for
the training. It's only a couple of weeks for that but now I can afford
those Splitfire plugs I've always wanted. :) It will be some time before
I'm making steady money. When I am, I'm going Hog butt wild in the Ford
Truck shopping mall. T shirts, coffee mugs, baseball caps and posters.
Sure you don't have those yet but I don't have any money yet either. I
guess it's all in the timing. :) Thanks Bro, Sis! I owe it all to you
(and the bank)!

>http//www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr Bill, Bill, Bill. You forgot your
:. Never forget your :. If you don't want to use your :. Then just put
www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr or it won't show up as a hyperlink! What
are we to do? Buy em books, send them to school and Stu sells them A's.
:)
Later!



Deacon
deconblu gte.net
=============================
Nuke the unborn baby whales.
=============================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/



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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 08:17:07 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360 Rear seal replacement

>The rear seal of my 360 is leaking like a sieve. It's in a 76 F250 2wd.
>I'm not a mechanic so I'm asking you guys to let me know exactly whats
>involved. Thanks. Jack P.
>
What is involved is sell the truck. :-) Seriously, the FE engines mostly
use a rope seal which is damn near impossible to install correctly in the
vehicle. It involves dragging the upper piece in place with a chinese
finger trap sort of device which usually mauls the seal and/or scratches
the machined surface on the crank. There may be a retrofit available to
where you can use a rubber seal, seems like I heard of such a thing, but it
requires machining of the block and bearing cap. Others may be able to
detail this for you but if you have never done a rear seal I don't think
you want a rope seal to be your first one. If you are keen to do this I
recommend pulling the engine out, removing the crank, and then replacing
the seal plus all the main/rod bearings.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 08:38:16 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 Rear seal replacement

>>The rear seal of my 360 is leaking like a sieve.

Seriously, the FE engines mostly
>use a rope seal which is damn near impossible to install correctly in the
>vehicle.

Others may be able to
>detail this for you but if you have never done a rear seal I don't think
>you want a rope seal to be your first one.

I know they make a new type seal out of rubber? They sell for about 13 bucks!

I intend installing one of these in place of the rope seal when I rebuild my
360/390 this fall.
Stu
Nuke GM!

visit my homepage at www.pscico.com/stu

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 09:25:51 -0500
From: "Bear"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Door latch posts-rusted

The door latch striker is adjustable up and down so it allows for some
error....

E-mail :† bear269 sparc.isl.net
Please view my home page at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.isl.net/~bear269/home

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Michael R. Masse
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 1998 8:28 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Door latch posts


Since we're talking striker posts, I thought I'd ask about a problem I'm
having. My post is fine, it's just that the rest of the door jamb is
about 90% rusted away. There's very little left holding the post in
place, it's pretty much to the point that it wiggles, and if I gave it a
good tug, I'm sure it would just come right out. Anyone ever fixed this
before? I thought about cutting out a decent door jamb from a junkyard
truck, but I'm not sure if I'd be able to get it lined up right once it
was welded back in. I've been putting this off for quite a while, but
one of these days soon, it's just going to come right off.

Mike
'78 Bronco Custom
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 10:34:12 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: toploader

> From: GMPACHECO
> Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 19:34:02 EDT
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: toploader

> Yes, it comes with a hurst shifter, still in the box... what about

You guys lost me somewhere.......aren't we talking about a top
loader? If so what the heck does a hurst shifter have to do with the
discussion? I think there are more than one tranny thread in my mail
so pardon me if I'm confused?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 11:07:28 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Door latch posts

> Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 20:27:50 -0500
> From: "Michael R. Masse"
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Door latch posts

> Since we're talking striker posts, I thought I'd ask about a problem
> I'm having. My post is fine, it's just that the rest of the door
> jamb is about 90% rusted away.

If you have a welder (MIG preferably) and a way to bend up some sheet
metal (even a couple of 2x4's and "C" clamps will work for this) You
can bend up a facimile of the door post shape long enough to cover
the rusted area and carefully cut out the bad spot and weld it in. I
can't weld a door skin (1/2 skin) to save my life but I've had real
good luck on stuff with lots of kinks and bends in it to prevent the
warpage like your door post. Don't forget to weld in the new pocket
for the striker bolt :-)

If you go to the junk yard any F series truck of a similar year will
have the right sheet metal but it may be rusty too and it will stil
have to be welded in in any case. The only parts of the truck I hate
to mess with are the flat sheets since they warp as soon as I start
the welder just thinking about my skilled welding hands coming close
to them :-(

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 11:36:49 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mercedes and Chrysler merger

Thought some of you might find this interesting. Looks like
theres a new giant in the automotive industry.

This came from an email from The Car Connection.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecarconnection.com
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Itís a Done Deal! The world now welcomes a New Auto Giant - DaimlerChrysler.
Details of the merger between Chrysler Corp. and Daimler-Benz were announced
this morning in London by Chrysler Chairman Robert J. Eaton and Daimler-Benz
Chairman Juergen E. Schrempp. The transaction, valued at $92 billion, is the
largest industrial merger ever consummated. The new firm, DaimlerChrysler will
rank No. 5 among world auto makers, behind General Motors, Ford, Toyota and
Volkswagen. Catch a brief summary of the news conference, plus quotes from the
two chairmen, later today. Keep returning to our site, as new material will
be posted continuously throughout the day and into the weekend.

- -Ken

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 08:57:43 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tires for truck pull

Sleddog,
I seem to remember about 15 years ago all the 4X4 pullers were using a
tire that I think Dick Cpeck was marketing. It looked like a tractor
tire that would fit a 15 or 16 inch rim. It had chevron lugs on it and
were fairly wide and the lugs weren't too thick. Similar to what we
called road tires for a tractor verses the "Rice and Cane" tires (deep
deep lugs). Does anyone still use these tires? Are they even still
available? Is the tire used determined by the class you are pulling in?
Just curious (like George -- sorry but it's my job to read my kids to
sleep ;0) ).

Tom H.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 12:26:04 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Highboy

Colorado Jeff wrote: >>There's a highboy sitting near this farmer's
house on my way to work. Everyday, I keep thinking I should ask him if
he wants to sell it. It hasn't moved in about six months now, and it
looks like the tires are going flat.


Do you reside in the State of Colorado, as the name implies, or is this
Highboy located somewhere east of the Missippi and South of the
Mason-Dixon line by chance?????????

Azie
Ardmore, Al.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 12:08:54 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Alternato Wiring Problem

I have a '78 F150 with a stock output alternator. My problem is with the
fusable link in the alternator charging wire that connects to the main
battery. I replaced the stock 12 gauge wire (or whatever it was) with a 10
gauge wire. The heavy gauge wire connects to a smaller gauge wire (like 18
gauge) and has the tag saying fusable link. A wire from the regulator
connects at the junction of the fusable link and the heavy wire to make
what looks like a shunt.

I have just finished installing "factory" air conditioning in my non-AC
truck. To make a long boring story short, with the AC on and the blower on
max, headlights on w/highlights, and my 220 watt stereo at a fairly loud
level, the fusable link wire that connects the 10 gauge wire to the main
battery gets very hot. Also, I must have the engine over 2000 RPMs to get
14 volts. With all electics off, I get 14.5V at idle. I have a new Die
Hard Gold 850 battery.

What I want to know - is the fusable link providing a certain resistance
for the regulator (like a shunt) or is it there to prevent a high amp surge
from overheating/exploding the battery? What I want to do is take the
fusable link out and run straight 10 gauge from the alternator to the
battery lug on the starter solenoid and "T" the regulator wire into the 10
gauge wire. Will this work or will it cause more problems? Is the wire
that comes from the regulator simply taking the voltage reading off the
charging wire?

Help

Thanks,

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mschwall texas.net or mike fordfan.org
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mschwall.home.texas.net
FORD FAN PAGE: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordfan.org

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 13:27:42 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Old stuff

Stu wrote: >>You must be catching up on long lost mail. This was
weeks old!

Been to see two of my Grandchidren in Canton, (Detroit) MI. Was gone
for a week and its going to take 3 weeks to catch up on all I've gotten
behind on, including the FordTruck list.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 13:47:28 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Tires for truck pull

they are from cepek. they are illegal in the classes i pull in because we
are required to use DOT tires and we have a size limit. goodyear used to
make the wooly bogger, but they are no longer DOT and are too wide for our
last rules change.

i have a set of retreads that have a chevron i have been using, but they
are now too small at 20" tall and too narrow at 9 1/2 or so. in out rules
it states no "tractor chevrom treads" but i get by because the tread has
more lugs on it than just the chevron and it is DOT carcass and maybe
because i don't win alot? you really only get singled out if you win too
much it seems sometimes.

the pros, modifieds and super stocks use the pulling tires still.

we are also in most places not allowed to cut the tires at all but tires
worn from driving on the street on most 4x4's have a very good tread relief
from getting cupped as most 4x4's do to their front tires.

with those pull tires (giant cepek puller i think they are called) you need
a lot of power to turn them. they need alot of wheel speed to work.

happy to talk about it, any other questions?

sleddog

- ----------
From: Hogan, Tom[SMTP:Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 1998 11:57 AM
To: 'Ford Trucks'
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tires for truck pull

Sleddog,
I seem to remember about 15 years ago all the 4X4 pullers were using a
tire that I think Dick Cpeck was marketing. It looked like a tractor
tire that would fit a 15 or 16 inch rim. It had chevron lugs on it and
were fairly wide and the lugs weren't too thick. Similar to what we
called road tires for a tractor verses the "Rice and Cane" tires (deep
deep lugs). Does anyone still use these tires? Are they even still
available? Is the tire used determined by the class you are pulling in?
Just curious (like George -- sorry but it's my job to read my kids to
sleep ;0) ).

Tom H.





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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 13:44:12 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - F-100 Nats

What is the starting/ending dates for the show in east Tn (Pigeon
Forge)?????

Is it May 14th/17th (Thurs/Sun )????

Azie
Ardmore, Al.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 12:54:50 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Old stuff

At 01:27 PM 5/7/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Stu wrote: >>You must be catching up on long lost mail. This was
>weeks old!
>
>Been to see two of my Grandchidren in Canton, (Detroit) MI. Was gone
>for a week and its going to take 3 weeks to catch up on all I've gotten
>behind on, including the FordTruck list.
>

Glad you R back. Heard Chrysker and Mercedes Benz has merged??
Big news!!
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 12:56:35 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - F-100 Nats

At 01:44 PM 5/7/98 -0400, you wrote:
>What is the starting/ending dates for the show in east Tn (Pigeon
>Forge)?????
>
>Is it May 14th/17th (Thurs/Sun )????

Azie, You need to Go!!!!!!!

Those dates sound right, I plan on being there on the 16th, Saturday! I
would love to finally meet up with you!
Stu

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Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 11:00:55 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 Rear seal replacement

From: John Strauss
>>The rear seal of my 360 is leaking like a sieve. It's in a 76 F250
2wd.
>>I'm not a mechanic so I'm asking you guys to let me know exactly whats
>>involved. Thanks. Jack P.
>>
>What is involved is sell the truck. :-)

I know you said this jokingly but there's more truth to it than your
letting on. A mechanic is just a guy with tools a book and a very
understanding wife. Not just for the time we spend working on our trucks
but the messes we make and the money we spend. As with the rest of my
fellow shade trees, the price tag on my toolbox could have bought a new
truck (you don't need that kind of investment unless you love
wrenchin'). You need the right tools and you need a manual to do it.
Best thing you have going for you is this list to clear up the "I don't
get its". Anyone can do the job right my friend. Take shortcuts or save
money using crap parts or save time because someone told you that
there's an easy way, you'll just get pissed off and quit. One of us will
get a good buy on a '76 F250.

>Seriously, the FE engines mostly
>use a rope seal which is damn near impossible to install correctly in
the
>vehicle.

You make another good point John. Pulling the engine can be the easy
way to go. You figure in what you need to do getting the job done under
the truck, you can remove a few more bolts, take some pictures, pull the
engine and do the job comfortably. If it's your only transportation and
you need something to drive. Get yourself some cheap junker or a bike
(we be talkin' motorcycle here, not Huffy) to get you around. With the
engine out, do all the little things that need to be done, like change
the freeze plugs, clean and paint. route and fix wires, hoses and what
ever you see that needs attention. If you do the job right the first
time you'll enjoy many years of trouble free bad ass truckin'. There are
only a few things that feel better than having an old truck that you
know will get you where ever you want to go. There's not many things
worst than walking because something you knew needed fixing, had to wait
till it broke.

>If you are keen to do this I
>recommend pulling the engine out, removing the crank, and then
replacing
>the seal plus all the main/rod bearings.

We have been at both doors, haven't we John! :) I guess we can
listen and learn or live and learn. Either way we learn something. Sorry
for repeating you but your right and I just thought I'd cosign this so
Jack could read it twice. :)
Later!

Deacon
deconblu gte.net
========================================
Truckin' , I'm a goin' home,
Whoa whoa baby, back where I belong,
Back home, sit down and patch my bones
And git back truckin' on.
========================================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 11:30:47 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Tires for truck pull

At 01:47 PM 5/7/98 -0400, you wrote:
>they are from cepek. they are illegal in the classes i pull in because we
>are required to use DOT tires and we have a size limit. goodyear used to
>make the wooly bogger, but they are no longer DOT and are too wide for our
>last rules change.
>

So, Sleddog, what class/weight limit do you pull in???


Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box,
Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box Style Side.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"
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Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 14:28:54 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Alternato Wiring Problem

> Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 12:08:54 -0500
> From: Mike Schwall
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Alternato Wiring Problem

> I replaced the stock 12 gauge wire (or
> whatever it was) with a 10 gauge wire.

> What I want to do is take the fusable link out and run straight 10
> gauge from the alternator to the battery lug on the starter solenoid
> and "T" the regulator wire into the 10 gauge wire. Will this work
> or will it cause more problems? Is the wire that comes from the
> regulator simply taking the voltage reading off the charging wire?

The fusable link is just a piece of wire calculated to burn up before
anything in the charging circuit does. If you take it out you could
cause a serious fire one day when that amp gets a bit carried away.
The link should be gaged to the amps of the alternator output so if
you really need more oooomph then get a bigger alternator and size
the new link accordingly.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 14:46:32 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Old stuff

> From: am14 chrysler.com
> Subject: FTE 61-79 - Old stuff
> Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 13:27:42 -0400

> Been to see two of my Grandchidren in Canton, (Detroit) MI. Was
> gone for a week and its going to take 3 weeks to catch up on all
> I've gotten behind on, including the FordTruck list.

Azie, you were only 15 miles from me and you didn't stop in to say
hi? Have to look at a map to refresh my memory but I think you take
ford blvd north from Ypsi right into Canton. I think that's right
near where 14 goes across right?

Have to let me know next time your up and we can have a cup a coffee
or something or do lunch. My hours are pretty flexible here at the
plant so I can take off about any time I want for such important
stuff as that :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 13:59:17 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Old stuff

>Azie, you were only 15 miles from me and you didn't stop in to say
>hi? Have to look at a map to refresh my memory but I think you take
>ford blvd north from Ypsi right into Canton. I think that's right
>near where 14 goes across right?
>
>Have to let me know next time your up and we can have a cup a coffee....


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