Re: FTE 61-79 - Events List

61-79-list-digest Thursday, May 7 1998 Volume 02 : Number 252

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Events List
FTE 61-79 - 360 Rear seal replacement
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 Rear seal replacement
RE: FTE 61-79 - Door latch posts-rusted
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: toploader
Re: FTE 61-79 - Door latch posts
FTE 61-79 - Mercedes and Chrysler merger
FTE 61-79 - Tires for truck pull
FTE 61-79 - Highboy
FTE 61-79 - Alternato Wiring Problem
FTE 61-79 - Old stuff
RE: FTE 61-79 - Tires for truck pull
FTE 61-79 - F-100 Nats
Re: FTE 61-79 - Old stuff
Re: FTE 61-79 - F-100 Nats
Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 Rear seal replacement
RE: FTE 61-79 - Tires for truck pull
Re: FTE 61-79 - Alternato Wiring Problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - Old stuff
Re: FTE 61-79 - Old stuff

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Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 04:07:54 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Events List

From: William L Ballinger
>My page should be up and running in a couple more days. I have to thank
Ken
>and Deacon for their inspiration and know-how. Thanks guys.

Aaaw shucks, twernt nothen! Ken teached me eveythin I no! :}

>Congratulations on the award, I agree wholeheartedly that we have the
best
>thing going, in the automotive vein, on the web. I have found our
>information and links to be the best I've read. Ken and Peggy deserve a
>round of applause, whadddya say....>>

Ditto! >
I think I've got the... Faults alarm. My bad. Sorry! :]
Ken, Peggy Thanks! You have treated us like friends from the start.
Sure, everyone gets mad at me somewhere along the line but I feel that
has taken the heat off the other members. :) You showed me how to make
Web pages and even cut me in on the Dragonfire site. If it wasn't for
your help I wouldn't have received the offer of employment I just
received. The company my wife works for has asked me to be their
Internet sales rep. They also want me to train their sales staff on
using the Internet for research. They offered to pay me $85 an hour for
the training. It's only a couple of weeks for that but now I can afford
those Splitfire plugs I've always wanted. :) It will be some time before
I'm making steady money. When I am, I'm going Hog butt wild in the Ford
Truck shopping mall. T shirts, coffee mugs, baseball caps and posters.
Sure you don't have those yet but I don't have any money yet either. I
guess it's all in the timing. :) Thanks Bro, Sis! I owe it all to you
(and the bank)!

>http//www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr Bill, Bill, Bill. You forgot your
:. Never forget your :. If you don't want to use your :. Then just put
www.ldd.net/scribers/ballingr or it won't show up as a hyperlink! What
are we to do? Buy em books, send them to school and Stu sells them A's.
:)
Later!

Deacon
deconblu

gte.net
=============================
Nuke the unborn baby whales.
=============================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/

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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 08:17:07 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360 Rear seal replacement

>The rear seal of my 360 is leaking like a sieve. It's in a 76 F250 2wd.
>I'm not a mechanic so I'm asking you guys to let me know exactly whats
>involved. Thanks. Jack P.
>
What is involved is sell the truck. :-) Seriously, the FE engines mostly
use a rope seal which is damn near impossible to install correctly in the
vehicle. It involves dragging the upper piece in place with a chinese
finger trap sort of device which usually mauls the seal and/or scratches
the machined surface on the crank. There may be a retrofit available to
where you can use a rubber seal, seems like I heard of such a thing, but it
requires machining of the block and bearing cap. Others may be able to
detail this for you but if you have never done a rear seal I don't think
you want a rope seal to be your first one. If you are keen to do this I
recommend pulling the engine out, removing the crank, and then replacing
the seal plus all the main/rod bearings.

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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 08:38:16 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 360 Rear seal replacement

>>The rear seal of my 360 is leaking like a sieve.

Seriously, the FE engines mostly
>use a rope seal which is damn near impossible to install correctly in the
>vehicle.

Others may be able to
>detail this for you but if you have never done a rear seal I don't think
>you want a rope seal to be your first one.

I know they make a new type seal out of rubber? They sell for about 13 bucks!

I intend installing one of these in place of the rope seal when I rebuild my
360/390 this fall.
Stu
Nuke GM!

visit my homepage at www.pscico.com/stu

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Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 09:25:51 -0500
From: "Bear"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Door latch posts-rusted

The door latch striker is adjustable up and down so it allows for some
error....

E-mail : bear269

sparc.isl.net
Please view my home page at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.isl.net/~bear269/home

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-61-79-list

ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Michael R. Masse
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 1998 8:28 PM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Door latch posts

Since we're talking striker posts, I thought I'd ask about a problem I'm
having. My post is fine, it's just that the rest of the door jamb is
about 90% rusted away. There's very little left holding the post in
place, it's pretty much to the point that it wiggles, and if I gave it a
good tug, I'm sure it would just come right out. Anyone ever fixed this
before? I thought about cutting out a decent door jamb from a junkyard
truck, but I'm not sure if I'd be able to get it lined up right once it
was welded back in. I've been putting this off for quite a while, but
one of these days soon, it's just going to come right off.

Mike

'78 Bronco Custom
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 11:07:28 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Door latch posts

> Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 20:27:50 -0500
> From: "Michael R. Masse"
> Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Door latch posts

> Since we're talking striker posts, I thought I'd ask about a problem
> I'm having. My post is fine, it's just that the rest of the door
> jamb is about 90% rusted away.

If you have a welder (MIG preferably) and a way to bend up some sheet
metal (even a couple of 2x4's and "C" clamps will work for this) You
can bend up a facimile of the door post shape long enough to cover
the rusted area and carefully cut out the bad spot and weld it in. I
can't weld a door skin (1/2 skin) to save my life but I've had real
good luck on stuff with lots of kinks and bends in it to prevent the
warpage like your door post. Don't forget to weld in the new pocket
for the striker bolt :-)

If you go to the junk yard any F series truck of a similar year will
have the right sheet metal but it may be rusty too and it will stil
have to be welded in in any case. The only parts of the truck I hate
to mess with are the flat sheets since they warp as soon as I start
the welder just thinking about my skilled welding hands coming close
to them :-(

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --
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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 11:36:49 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mercedes and Chrysler merger

Thought some of you might find this interesting. Looks like
theres a new giant in the automotive industry.

This came from an email from The Car Connection.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecarconnection.com
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

It’s a Done Deal! The world now welcomes a New Auto Giant - DaimlerChrysler.
Details of the merger between Chrysler Corp. and Daimler-Benz were announced
this morning in London by Chrysler Chairman Robert J. Eaton and Daimler-Benz
Chairman Juergen E. Schrempp. The transaction, valued at $92 billion, is the
largest industrial merger ever consummated. The new firm, DaimlerChrysler will
rank No. 5 among world auto makers, behind General Motors, Ford, Toyota and
Volkswagen. Catch a brief summary of the news conference, plus quotes from the
two chairmen, later today. Keep returning to our site, as new material will
be posted continuously throughout the day and into the weekend.

- -Ken

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Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 08:57:43 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tires for truck pull

Sleddog,
I seem to remember about 15 years ago all the 4X4 pullers were using a
tire that I think Dick Cpeck was marketing. It looked like a tractor
tire that would fit a 15 or 16 inch rim. It had chevron lugs on it and
were fairly wide and the lugs weren't too thick. Similar to what we
called road tires for a tractor verses the "Rice and Cane" tires (deep
deep lugs). Does anyone still use these tires? Are they even still
available? Is the tire used determined by the class you are pulling in?
Just curious (like George -- sorry but it's my job to read my kids to
sleep ;0) ).

Tom H.
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chrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Highboy

Colorado Jeff wrote: >>There's a highboy sitting near this farmer's
house on my way to work. Everyday, I keep thinking I should ask him if
he wants to sell it. It hasn't moved in about six months now, and it
looks like the tires are going flat.

Do you reside in the State of Colorado, as the name implies, or is this
Highboy located somewhere east of the Missippi and South of the
Mason-Dixon line by chance?????????

Azie
Ardmore, Al.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 12:08:54 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Alternato Wiring Problem

I have a '78 F150 with a stock output alternator. My problem is with the
fusable link in the alternator charging wire that connects to the main
battery. I replaced the stock 12 gauge wire (or whatever it was) with a 10
gauge wire. The heavy gauge wire connects to a smaller gauge wire (like 18
gauge) and has the tag saying fusable link. A wire from the regulator
connects at the junction of the fusable link and the heavy wire to make
what looks like a shunt.

I have just finished installing "factory" air conditioning in my non-AC
truck. To make a long boring story short, with the AC on and the blower on
max, headlights on w/highlights, and my 220 watt stereo at a fairly loud....

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